Itálica’s Rich Roman Heritage

Explore one of the largest amphitheaters (as seen on Game of Thrones!) and admire the impressive mosaics on a day trip from Seville to the ruins of the first Ancient Roman town outside of Italy. 

The House of the Birds is the largest complex at Itálica.

Since Wally and I were spending five days in Sevilla, Spain, we figured we could add the nearby Roman ruins of Itálica to our itinerary. It reminded us of visiting the ruins of Volubilis outside of the city of Meknès, Morocco (although the Spanish weather was much nicer). We both share a passion for history: Wally’s childhood interest in Ancient Rome matches my fascination with Ancient Egypt (which we were fortunate enough to experience together, but I digress). 

“The amphitheater was used as a filming location for ‘Game of Thrones.’

Thanks to some CGI magic, it served as the Dragonpit.”

The Venus of Itálica was unearthed in 1940. This is a replica — the actual statue is in the Archaeological Museum of Seville.

The archaeological park of Itálica (which Wally joking referred to as Italics) is located about 30 minutes northwest of Sevilla, in the municipality of Santiponce, and is one of the cultural points of interest along the Ruta Bética Romana, the Roman Baetica Route — an ancient Roman road that runs through the provinces of Sevilla, Cádiz and Córdoba. If you’re so inclined, you can walk it, though it’ll take you weeks. 

We had already done our fair share of walking, and since it was unseasonably hot, opted to take the 170A bus from the Plaza de Armas station, which typically departs every half hour from Sevilla. 

A replica of the 2nd century statue of Diana, goddess of the hunt, greets visitors to Itálica.

Roman Expansion: A Brief History of Itálica

Itálica was the first Roman city established outside of Italy and thrived from the 2nd to the 4th century CE. Its origins can be traced back to General Scipio Africanus’ victory at Ilipa (near Sevilla) in 206 CE. During the Second Punic War, Scipio’s tactical efforts against Hannibal and the Carthaginians focused on the lower Guadalquivir valley, and after conquering the region, he established the settlement for his veteran troops to live.

Itálica bore witness to the births of Trajan (53-117 CE) and his adopted son and successor, Hadrian (76-138 CE) who were the first Roman emperors born outside of Italy. 

A reproduction of a statue of the Roman emperor Trajan in heroic pose found in Itálica. The original can be seen at the — you guessed it — Archaeological Museum of Seville. 

Hadrian expanded the city to include the Urbs Nova, literally the “New City,” added an impressive amphitheater and elevated its status to colonia—the highest designation for a Roman city. Additionally, Itálica amassed significant wealth from the exportation of grain and olive oil grown in the fertile soil of the Gerena Depression. These goods were transported to the Guadalquivir River and shipped to Rome by boat.

However, by the 4th century, the combined impact of mass deforestation and poor agricultural practices left Itálica’s river port dry, ultimately causing the city to be abandoned.

Aside from a group of schoolchildren, we pretty much had Itálica to ourselves.

Visiting Itálica

After a short walk from the bus stop, Wally and I arrived at the park entrance. We purchased the very affordable admission: 3€ ($3.25) for both of us. It’s free for EU citizens. Bring some cash — they don’t take credit cards. 

Plaques and a milestone with Hadrian’s name on it

We made a detour to the restroom, which is located in a nearby building, where we saw a commemorative plaque bearing the names of individuals who financed the early excavations at Itálica, as well as a marble milestone inscribed with Emperor Hadrian’s name.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Most exposed ruins, those not buried beneath sand or soil, were commonly pillaged and used as a source of building materials by whomever occupied the region after they had been abandoned. Additional bits were plundered during the French occupation of Spain, and in the 18th century, a mosaic called the Loves of Zeus was taken by Regla Manjón, the Countess of Lebrija, and incorporated into her palatial home in Sevilla. Several artifacts, including the erotic Abduction of Hylas, are displayed at the Museo Arqueológico de Sevilla (the Archeological Museum of Seville). 

In 1912, the complex was officially declared a national monument, ensuring its conservation and protection against further looting.

Start your visit to Itálica by exploring the amphitheater.

Game On: Exploring the Amphitheater

Situated just beyond the park’s entrance are the remains of the amphitheater. It was built between 117 and 138 CE and commissioned by Emperor Hadrian. When it was completed, it ranked among the largest in the Roman Empire and could accommodate up to 30,000 spectators — about half as many as the Colosseum in Rome, but far exceeding the scale required for a community of 8,000 inhabitants.

The interior portions are closed off to the public.

The site was used as a filming location and featured in the penultimate season of Game of Thrones. Thanks to some CGI-generated magic, it served as the Dragonpit, where three members of major houses have a historic meeting about a common enemy.

Attention, Game of Thrones fans! The amphitheater at Itálica, with some help from CGI, became the Dragonpit.

The amphitheater was the stage for the spectacle of bloodsport: gladiatorial combat, historic battle re-creations and animal hunts. Romans of all social classes attended, and the stand levels were carefully regulated and divided into a hierarchy based on wealth, gender and status. The lowest tier, or ima cavea, was closest to the action, reserved for the highest-ranking males. Women and the poor, meanwhile, sat or stood on wooden benches in the highest part of the stands, the suma cavea, which was covered by an awning to protect from the heat. 

The passage leading to the fossa beastiaria, where wild animals were caged before being released into the amphitheater to be “hunted”

The massive rectangular pit at the center of the arena, known as the fossa beastiaria, was used to house the caged wild beasts that appeared in the spectacles prior to being released for the entertainment of the audience.

A variety of rather well-preserved murals can be seen at Itálica — though many of them are missing their central images.

Main Street Mosaics

We paused by a sign where the remnants of the city wall stood. In Roman times, the entire city was bounded by a walled perimeter. From here, you can glimpse the main sewer line, which runs through the Cardo Maximus (Latin for Main Street).

Beyond the amphitheater, large villas of prosperous families and municipal buildings have been excavated, many with colorful well-preserved mosaics. 

The House of Exedra was a private club of sorts for the elite of Itálica.

Exedra, Exedra, Exedra

Spanning a surface area of 43,056 square feet (4,000 square meters), the Casa de la Exedra was one of the largest municipal buildings in Itálica. Due to its size and the inclusion of specific rooms, like the palestra (an open-air gymnasium) and latrine, historians have suggested that this structure probably served as a private club. Alongside the entrance were five tabernae, or shops.

At the heart of the complex is the peristyle, a garden courtyard featuring a curvilinear fountain. Adjacent to this was the exedra, a semicircular chamber with seating that served as a gathering place for upper-class citizens to engage in scholarly conversation. Originally, this area was covered by a high vault. 

It also featured a thermae, which consisted of a series of rooms designed for bathing with hot, lukewarm and cold water — caldarium, tepidarium and frigidarium, respectively — as well as a changing room for patrons.

Potty humor? The floor mosaic of the latrine is embellished with scenes featuring well-endowed pygmies battling cranes.

As we walked along the perimeter of the structure, we stopped to take a look at the latrine. Although it’s been reduced to a shell, it still retains its marble bench with keyhole-shaped openings. The room was open, and the “toilets” had no partitions between them. When nature called, Romans had no issue hiking up their togas to conduct their business in close proximity to one another.

Look how close you had to sit to other people while taking a dump. Could someone pass the sponge stick, please?

The bench is positioned above a channel where a stream of water once pushed the waste into the underground sewage system. An attendant would provide patrons with a tersorium, a sea sponge affixed to a wooden stick, which was used instead of toilet paper to wipe their nether regions. These communal sponges were then rinsed in running water and submerged in a large pot filled with vinegar to sanitize them. Eww.

“At least they used vinegar,” Wally said.

The god Neptune, king of the sea, rules over a variety of mythological water creatures.

Go Fish: The Neptune Building 

Although it hasn’t been completely excavated, the work carried out to date has indicated that one part of the Edificio de Neptuno functioned as a thermal bath, while another served as a municipal building.

Both structures cover an entire block, and the municipal building has intricate mosaics depicting Theseus and the Minotaur, along with a mosaic of Bacchus, the god of wine. The Theseus mosaic covers the floor of a grand hall and originally had a central panel portraying the divine hero within the Minotaur’s labyrinth. Meanwhile, the Bacchus mosaic features dancing maenads, satyrs, centaurs and tigers — figures typical of Bacchus’ entourage. Similar to the mosaic of Theseus, the depiction of Bacchus, the Greek Dionysus, is also missing.

At the time we visited, the mosaic was covered by netting for protection — but you can see a crocodile chasing a pygmy at the bottom.

The building that contained the bathhouse retains the remnants of its underground heating system. Within the frigidarium is the mosaic that gives the buildings its name. At its center is the sea god, wielding his trident atop a chariot pulled by two seahorses and surrounded by dolphins, fish molluscs and crustaceans. Its border includes scenes of fishing and combat with Egyptian iconography, depicting a hippopotamus, a palm tree, and the clearly popular but bizarre motif of pygmies battling cranes and crocodiles.

The remains of an oven from a bakery, one of the tabernae, or shops that lined the street-side of these luxurious villas.

Tabernae: Rome’s Retail Therapy

Tabernae could often be found along the perimeter of a household and served as an extra source of income for the owner of a villa. They included a variety of businesses, ranging from bakeries selling fresh loaves of bread to shops that produced small terracotta oil lamps called lucernes, and fullonicae, a kind of laundry or dry cleaner, where clothing was washed in a basin and agitated with a mixture of soda ash and urine. (Hey, apparently it worked.)

The main mosaic at the House of the Birds features various bird species, including a peacock, owl, rooster, pigeon, sparrow, heron, goose, parrot and mallard duck.

Pecking Order at the House of the Birds

The Casa de los Pájaros, also known as the House of the Birds, was the first domus, a private family residence, to be fully excavated in Itálica and likely belonged to an aristocratic family. Covering approximately 18,298 square feet (1,700 square meters), it’s divided into two primary spaces: a public area open to clients, tabernae and a semi-public area for those closely associated with the family; and a private area restricted to family members.

Kids on a field trip wander around the House of the Birds.

A room at the House of the Birds

A colorful, well-preserved mosaic

The semi-public area was arranged around a peristyle courtyard which would’ve been surrounded by a columned gallery. At the back of this courtyard, there was a niche known as a lararium that held small bronze figures dedicated to Lares and Penates, guardian deities that protected the household. The private rooms, including the triclinium (formal dining room) and cubicula (bedrooms) could be accessed from the courtyard. 

The portion of the mosaic showing Hylas, Hercules’ well-endowed boy toy, getting sexually accosted by nymphs has been removed and is now in the Archaeological Museum of Seville.

Hylas, the Horse Hung Hero

Yet another elite residence in Itálica is the partially excavated Casa de Hylas, or House of Hylas. The northernmost courtyard connects to an anteroom, which served as a passage to the room housing the mosaic of Hylas, after which the house was named.

This mosaic portrays Hylas, the favored companion and lover of Hercules, being seduced and abducted by nymphs while collecting water from a spring. I’m certainly no prude, but the mosaic has a scene that made me clutch my pearls. One of the nymphs has her hand wrapped around Hylas’ calf while the other is clearly pulling his dick.

As mentioned earlier, this section of the mosaic has been removed and is now exhibited at the Archaeological Museum of Seville, leaving the surrounding geometric-patterned mosaic incomplete without its central image.

A mosaic at the House of the Planetarium depicts the Roman gods who were associated with each day of the week. In the bottom right, for example, is Helios, who drove the chariot that pulls the sun across the sky. Not surprisingly, he’s paired with Sunday.

Out of This World: House of the Planetarium 

The last villa that Wally and I saw was the Casa del Planetario, or House of the Planetarium. The floor mosaic has seven medallions with depictions of each of the planetary deities who gave their names to the seven days of the week. This was Wally’s favorite, and he had to elbow some children out of the way to get a good look at it. 

Centaurs and tigers line the mosaic of Bacchus and Ariadne.

The centermost celestial body of the mosaic is Venus, whose likeness is depicted wearing a jeweled crown and necklace, perhaps an allusion to the brightness of this star. As a divinity, she’s associated with Friday, the sixth day of the Roman week, and her prominent position suggests that love, one of her attributes, moves the universe.

Surrounding Venus are Helios (Sunday), Luna (Monday), Mars (Tuesday) Mercury (Wednesday), Jupiter (Thursday) and Saturn (Saturday). 

The gladiator Wally celebrates yet another stunning win.

Tips for Itálica

We had an incredible time and spent about two and a half hours leisurely exploring the site. It exceeded my expectations. We were impressed by the sheer scale of the amphitheater and the quality of the mosaics. Except for a school field trip, complete with costumed chaperones dressed in Roman garb, the crowds were sparse, which made it feel like we had the place (somewhat) to ourselves. Plus, the majestic cypress trees dotting the landscape lend Itálica an atmospheric charm.

This elevated spot in Itálica offers a scenic view of the cobbled Roman road and the town of Santiponce.

On a practical note, remember to wear comfortable shoes for your visit and to bring sunscreen; there was little to no shade throughout the park. Also drink plenty of water. We brought two large bottles of water and snacks with us and were glad we did because there is no longer a café on the premises. 

If you’re seeking a fun half-day trip close to Sevilla, I highly suggest hopping on the bus to Itálica. The archeological site’s ancient charms will be part of the mosaic of your memories. –Duke

The Pros (and Cons) of Teaching English in Cambodia

Ever thought about teaching abroad? You could do worse than Cambodia, with its low cost of living, high amount of job openings and gorgeous scenery. 

Stunning natural vibrancy. A fast-growing economy. One of the most competitive costs of living. All in a region flooded by expats and nomads. It should come as no surprise that Cambodia is one of the most popular destinations for people looking to teach English abroad. 

But, as with every country in the world, there are a decent number of pros and cons to kickstarting a teaching career in this part of Southeast Asia. But first things first. 

Requirements to Teach English in Cambodia

Before delving into the pros and cons of teaching English in this stunning country, let’s briefly discuss what would-be tutors need. Good news: Prior teaching experience and university degrees aren’t mandatory for English teachers applying for jobs in Cambodia. 

You also don’t have to be a native speaker of English to teach in Cambodia. However, English proficiency across the country remains low, so some knowledge of Khmer (the native language) is recommended.

The most crucial qualification you’ll need to begin your teaching career in the country is a TEFL (teaching English as a foreign language) certificate. Most employers look for a qualification of 120 hours from an accredited course provider such as the TEFL Academy.

A single-entry visa (type E) is usually required, which can be arranged either before or upon arrival at the airport for $35, plus fees. This visa is valid for three months from the issue date and can be extended for six to 12 months.

The Pros of Teaching in Cambodia

It’s easy to get started. 

Cambodia has some of the most flexible requirements for teaching positions. As one of the more recent emerging markets in the TEFL world, things such as bachelor’s degrees, prior teaching experience or classroom training aren’t always essential to employers. This makes Cambodia a great place to kickstart your teaching abroad journey.

Phnom Penh

There’s a wide variety of positions.

Whether it’s teaching kids in kindergarten or adults business English, Cambodia’s teaching market is flooded with different roles and responsibilities. If you’re TEFL-qualified and have the right attitude for a teaching gig, you will find the range of options open to you among the most competitive in the world.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital city, offers the most opportunities. But other destinations, such as Siem Reap and Battambang, are popular options for those seeking positions as well.

The lifestyle — a low cost of living paired with amazing culture and natural beauty — can’t be beat. 

Destinations like Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam have been hotbeds for nomads, gap year students and other travelers for years, with their lush natural wonders, rich cultures and layered histories. Couple this with some healthy salaries and a low cost of living, and you can begin to see how the recipe for an idyllic lifestyle is forming for TEFL teachers in the region.

Salaries for teaching English in Cambodia range from $15 to $30 an hour, depending on experience, qualifications and location. While other countries boast heftier salaries, Cambodia’s low cost of living allows teachers to rent an apartment for around $150 a month, with utilities costing around $50, and the average meal only costing $2-$5.

It’s a great jumping-off point to some wonderful Southeast Asian adventures. 

For many who teach abroad, the freedom to travel is one of the biggest draws. In Cambodia, with plenty of opportunities to save thanks to the country’s low cost of living, spending money for other treks should be obtainable.

Bus routes frequently take visitors into neighboring Vietnam and Thailand, providing excellent travel opportunities during your downtime. 

And it’s easy to get a change of scenery if you want. The number of educational institutions looking for English teachers makes this part of the world one of the most popular for nomad border-hopping.

If you’re not teaching in a popular area, like Siem Reap, you can feel very isolated.

The Cons of Teaching in Cambodia

Not everyone is prepared for a different culture — including in the classroom. 

The first place to start on a list of cons to teaching anywhere is the risk of culture shock. Not only is Khmer culture itself a world away from what those of us in the Western world are probably used to, but classroom experiences can vary wildly in Cambodia compared to other locations.

Cambodian teaching can be a lot more flexible, with class sizes typically much larger and boisterous. While this can make for some of the most fun and unique lesson planning and teaching experiences, it’s important to bear in mind when preparing an application.

Rural positions can feel isolated. 

We mentioned earlier that cities are usually the places to stick to when it comes to finding the best job opportunities, and if you’re looking to fully immerse in the sights and cultural hubs of the country, I recommend sticking to the likes of Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. 

If you find yourself looking at positions in more rural areas, you’ll likely have a harder time moving around and might get caught up in the long list of restoration projects constantly underway around Cambodia.

Scams are on the rise. 

Finally, as teaching English in Cambodia becomes more popular, so too does the number of scammers in the region. One of the most common scams I’ve seen is when employers ask for a small fee for the work they provide. Needless to say, this is a red flag.

Always take the time to research the employer, recruiter and institution you’re applying to. If they don’t appear to be interested in your skills or qualifications, take it as a hint that they may not be genuine. –James Metcalfe

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LEARN MORE ABOUT CAMBODIA

Do’s and Don’ts for a Safe and Healthy Trip to Bali

A ride-share app to help you get around, things you can do to avoid getting sick, and what gay tourists need to know before a visit to Bali.

With its stunning beaches and rich cultural legacy, Bali remains a popular travel destination. The Ngurah Rai Immigration Office reported that over 2.1 million tourists flew to Bali in 2022, and some sources say that number rose to 5 million visitors last year.

But here’s the twist: With all those seeking a slice of paradise comes the downside of overcrowded beaches, attractions swarming with tourists and nightmarish traffic, not to mention instances of tourists behaving badly. The province is considering implementing a tourist tax, according to Time, to address the environmental impact of tourism, offsetting it with local infrastructure development. 

The welcoming nature of the Island of the Gods and its residents is often disrupted by “nuisance” foreigners who disregard local laws and commit social taboos. At the same time, your trip may be marred by health issues if you don’t take the proper precautions — even though no vaccinations are currently required to visit. To truly enjoy the idyllic and tropical experience of Bali, here are some things to keep in mind to help protect you as a tourist and pay respect to your travel destination.

A ride-share app could make getting around Bali a whole lot easier.

Do use trusted transport. 

As the number of tourists continues to rise and construction projects spring up all over the island, it’s likely you’ll encounter traffic congestion at some point. The majority of the island’s roads are narrow and winding, creating challenges for cars, trucks and buses to pass each other. Consequently, locals have raised transportation prices for tourists, who reluctantly accept these rates due to a lack of alternative options for reaching their destination.

Visitors just might be able to avoid this by using ride-hailing apps like Grab to call a car or motorbike for transport. It offers fixed rates per booking, so you won’t be surprised by additional costs. The app also monitors every ride to detect unsafe scenarios and sends an alert to users in case they need support. 

A lot of beds on Bali have mosquito netting — and for good reason.

Do use mosquito repellent.

Bali's tropical climate, high rainfall and humid conditions create the perfect breeding ground for mosquitoes. In the first quarter of 2023, approximately 2,470 cases of dengue fever were reported, with patients exhibiting symptoms such as high fever, nausea and rashes. In extreme cases, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends using products with DEET to protect from mosquito-borne illnesses. Brands that have this ingredient are Off! and Coleman, which you can purchase before your trip.

Heatwaves in Bali are 30 times more common now because of climate change, according to the Indonesian Meteorology, Climatology and Geophysics Agency.

Do maximize sun protection.

Bali’s great any time of year, and as part of Indonesia, has subtle weather changes. From May to September, it’s mostly dry, sunny and warm, while the wet season occurs from November to March. But any time you go, it’s going to be hot. To reduce the risk of sunburn and skin cancer, protect yourself by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF rating of at least 30 and consider wearing layers, such as a lightweight long-sleeve shirt.

And remember to safeguard your eyes. Prolonged exposure to UV rays can lead to photokeratitis, akin to sunburn on your eyes, and puts you at risk of cataracts. So try using anti-glare sunglasses with polarized lenses to shield against the Bali sun while maintaining good vision. This is why it pays to invest in a brand known for providing good eye protection. The lenses on Ray-Ban sunglasses, for example, have enhanced UV protection and provide maximum glare reduction to help your vision adjust more easily in sunny areas. And since you can get these lenses on the iconic Wayfarer or classic Aviators, you can add to the style factor of your Bali look.

Touristy areas are more likely to have filtered water and ice, but that doesn’t mean you should ever drink the tap water. One of the first things you should do is get a bottle of water to put in your bathroom for when you brush your teeth.

Don’t drink the tap water.

Visitors to Bali sometimes experience “Bali belly,” which causes them to experience diarrhea, abdominal pain, loss of appetite and nausea. It’s often caused by contamination, as the body isn’t accustomed to unfamiliar bacteria found in local water sources and food. As such, it’s best to only drink bottled or filtered water during your stay. And if you want an iced drink, go to a higher-end café or one that caters to tourists — and make sure you ask that the ice is made from filtered water. Or, you can play it safe and skip the iced lattes and smoothies while you’re on Bali.

Don’t forget ocean safety checks.

Bali’s a surfer’s paradise for beginners and seasoned professionals alike, drawing visitors to spots like Canggu, Nusa Lembongan and Keramas, to name a few. However, the waves can be sizable and challenging, so it’s advisable to look for flags indicating designated swimming areas and their conditions. Consult local lifeguards to ensure safety and avoid swimming near surfers, as there's a risk of accidental collisions.

Additionally, you should ask whether the area has any coral reefs you need to be cautious of when you’re swimming, diving or surfing.

A huge part of the charm of Bali is experiencing its rich Hindu culture. And while Hinduism is more tolerant of gays than Islam, don’t do anything that could get you into trouble (i.e., be low-key).

Don’t neglect local laws regarding LGBTQ+ issues.

While Indonesia boasts the world’s largest Muslim population, Bali stands out as an island where the majority of its inhabitants practice Hinduism. One of the religious concepts practiced here is based on atma, promoting a live-and-let-live philosophy. This inclusive atmosphere is one of the many factors that make it a popular destination among the lesbian, gay, bisexual, trans and queer (LGBTQ+) community. However, it’s crucial to note that cultural boundaries still exist, and public displays of affection for both gay and straight couples are frowned upon.

Despite Bali being more tolerant, the country of Indonesia doesn’t officially recognize same-sex relationships. They have enacted laws making consensual sex outside of marriage illegal, which applies to citizens and foreigners, gay and straight alike. 

While queer tourists are welcome, you can’t freely practice the same openness with your identity that you might back home. In fact, USA Today reported that in January 2020, an American lesbian couple was deported after promoting the island of Bali as “queer-friendly.” Do yourself a favor: Avoid discussing LGBTQ topics. As with anywhere you go, respect local customs and err on the side of caution.

But if you follow these do’s and don’ts, you’re bound to discover the beauty that Bali offers. –Abigail Cameron

Mansions, Monuments and Museums of the Plaza de Jerónimo Páez in Córdoba

While exploring the historic quarter of Córdoba, Spain, admire the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo and Casa del Judío before you stop in the archaeological museum.

It’s easy to understand why Córdoba’s entire historic quarter earned its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 1985. As Wally and I explored the narrow cobblestone streets of la Judería, the city’s former Jewish quarter, our wanderings led us to charming plazas that opened up to reveal historic homes and restaurants with inviting outdoor seating, where you can sit and relax with the locals. 

Among these squares is Plaza de Jerónimo Páez, named after a descendant of the influential Cordobesan family responsible for the Renaissance-style Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo and the equally historic Casa del Judío. Having endured years of neglect, the plaza was renovated in the 1990s, when the archaeological museum was expanded.

During the city’s era of Roman occupation, known as Corduba at that time, this square served as the entertainment district, boasting one of the largest theaters in the empire. The partial remains of this historic structure are now displayed beneath the modern Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba, located next to the atmospheric 16th century Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo.

From palace gardens to private residence to school to museum, the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo has had a rich history.

Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo

What initially caught our attention as we walked through the square was the gloriously decayed sandstone façade of the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo family — aptly named, considering their surname, Castillejo, translates to “Little Castle” — which is essentially what this home was.

A pair of life-size marble korai, female figures dressed in long tunics, and a Corinthian capital with acanthus leaves creates a striking vignette.

This lovely Roman mosaic includes motifs such as interlaced Solomon’s knot, vines, pomegranates and crescent-shaped pelta shields.

One of the many beautiful Mudéjar-style niches with scalloped arches within the palace courtyard — and the equally dashing Wally. 

The residence was renovated in the 16th century by Luis Páez de Castillejo and stands on the grounds of what were once the gardens of Ybrahim Ben Nacer Alfaqui’s palace. In 1538, he commissioned the prominent Spanish architect Hernán Ruiz II to oversee the redevelopment of the main courtyard, Renaissance-style façade and sculpted railing of the main staircase. Ruiz II collaborated with his father, Hernán Ruiz the Elder, on the contentious construction of the Capilla Mayor within the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.

The silhouettes on the cloth added a modern art feel to this area of the courtyard.

Besides serving as the Páez de Castillejo residence, the building was used as a school at the end of the 19th century, known as the Polytechnic Academy. And in 1959, it became the Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba.

This impressive sculpture, known as the Thoracata of Córdoba and named after a type of Roman battle armor, depicts the massive torso of a hero — possibly Aeneas in his escape from Troy — wearing an intricate breastplate adorned with a pair of griffins.

Its exterior is similar to Ruiz II’s work on the Puerta del Puente, the principal gateway to the Roman Bridge in town, and, like the monument, was designed in the style of a triumphal arch. Among its notable features are a pair of porticos supported by Doric columns, with heroic figures positioned between them. Above the entablature, classical figures hold the family coat of arms. This imagery aimed to immortalize the Páez de Castillejo family as the living embodiment of discipline, loyalty and self-sacrifice to the people of Córdoba. 

This staircase features a sandstone railing designed by Hernán Ruiz II as well as a Roman mosaic depicting rearing horses drawing a chariot.

Be sure to go through that gorgeous gateway — it’s free and only takes a short while to stroll around the courtyard.

Initially, Wally and I stood there, gawking and uncertain about entering, but after we saw a man speaking to the guard stationed at the entrance, we decided to ask about the building. The guard informed us that it’s an extension of the modern archaeological museum and welcomed us to take a look around the interior courtyard. We walked around the first courtyard, which is dedicated to Roman archaeology, including mosaics and sculptures. However, unlike the adjacent institution, the artifacts on display here are not clearly marked.

Although it’s not open to the public, the exterior of Casa del Judío is worth pausing to take a look at.

Casa del Judío

Over the centuries, the enigmatic building located across from the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo has been inextricably linked to the Castilian royal family and the generations of noble lineages connected to them, including the Sousa, Haro, Armenia and Cárdenas families.

Originally a Mudéjar palace, the stately manor is also called the Palacio del Duque de Medina Sidonia, or the Palace of the Duke of Medina Sidonia. For, it was within these walls that the bastard son of Juana de Sousa and Henry II of Castile, Enrique de Castilla y de Sousa, aka the first duke of Medina Sidonia, was born.

While eating at La Cavea, we spotted a cool couple in front of the Casa del Judío.

Although it’s not open to the public, you can still admire its ceramic-tiled roof, vibrant fuchsia bougainvilleas and square tower with a hipped roof enclosed by a latticework screen. To the left of the doorway, sheltered by greenery, is a bronze bust perched atop a marble plinth immortalizing the Roman poet Marcus Annaeus Lucanus (39-65 CE), better known in English literature as Lucan. 

Lucan was the nephew of the philosopher-statesman Lucius Annaeus Seneca (Seneca the Younger). He attracted the favorable attention of the Roman emperor Nero but conspired with Gaius Calpurnius Piso in a scheme to assassinate Nero and install Piso as his successor. Ultimately, its failure led to Lucan’s arrest and his subsequent suicide at the age of 26. 

Today the home is more commonly referred to by locals as la Casa del Judío, or in English, the Jew’s House, in reference to Elie J. Nahamias, a Judeo-Greek businessman and its most recent owner, who passed away in 1994. Nahamias was a descendant of the pre-exile Sephardic communities that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula and assembled an impressive library of printed books and manuscripts spanning six centuries of Jewish history. His collection is held by the Library of the Alliance Israélite Universelle based in Paris, France. And although the property is privately owned by his children, you can still admire its beautiful exterior.

A cute location and a good option if you want a snack or drink while visiting the archeological museum — but otherwise you can find better food elsewhere in town.

Café-Bar La Cavea

The center of the square is taken up with a casual resturant, with tables placed under the shade of trees (with white umbrellas an additional barrier from the heat when needed), all sitting amid broken remnants of Roman columns. When we stopped by, there was live music, with a performer taking up station by the fountain.

Beware choco! Although our Spanish friends say it’s actually good, this one was rubbery and flavorless. If you really want to cringe, do a search for “cuttlefish.”

While the café gets points for its setting, the food didn’t impress us — especially since we ordered calamari but where told they had choco instead, which is very close. Imagine our dismay when we discovered that it not only looked like and and was practically the size of a bleached, deflated football, it tasted like one, too. (Wally had also made the mistake of Googling what cuttlefish look like, which didn’t do him any favors). I was recovering from heat stroke, so he choked down as much choco as he could before giving up.

Detail of an intricately carved Mudejar relief featuring sebqa work, a decorative technique characterized by the repetition of geometric and vegetal forms.

Hidden Gems

Our wanderings through the historic Plaza de Jerónimo Páez offered glimpses into Córdoba’s rich history, through its ruins, artifacts and storied mansions. This square is no longer the bustling entertainment district it was when it was home to one of the largest theaters in the Roman Empire. But it still captivates visitors with its antique structures and inviting energy. Be sure to admire your surroundings before you head into the archeological museum, which is worth visiting. –Duke

Plaza de Jerónimo Páez

 

Torre Campanario de Córdoba: Scaling the Heights of the Town’s Tallest Landmark

The 9th century minaret-turned-bell-tower of the Mezquita offers spectacular 360-degree views of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

We chose to visit just before sunset to get some of that golden hour glow.

In the heart of Córdoba’s Historic Quarter stands a towering sentinel: the Torre Campanario de la Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, or the Bell Tower of the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba. Rising 54 meters high — equivalent to a 16-story building — this remarkable landmark claims the distinction of being the city’s tallest structure. 

Formerly a mosque minaret, the bell tower stands as a living testament to Córdoba’s fascinating and diverse past. Visitors can climb to new heights and experience breathtaking vistas from the two uppermost levels of the tower. 

The original minaret didn’t stand in the exact location of the bell tower, but it was close by and accessible from within the Patio de los Naranjos

A Brief History of the Minaret of the Great Mosque 

But first, let me take you back to the year 957, during the period of Muslim rule in southern Spain (or al-Andulus). Abd ar-Rahman III (891-961), the first caliph of the Umayyad Dynasty in Spain, had a new alminar — a minaret tower — built along the north wall of the mosque. This tower, where the muezzin calls the faithful to prayer, replaced the original one built by Hisham I (757-796) in the 8th century. Hisham’s tower had stood in the Patio de los Naranjos, the Courtyard of the Orange Trees, and was removed when the courtyard was expanded. 

The architectural marvel likely resembled Sevilla’s La Giralda and had a rectangular shaft with a square base, an open-air platform, and a smaller secondary structure topped by an iridescent chevron-patterned bronze dome. At its summit, a yamur — an iron finial with metal spheres of decreasing size — was placed to protect the mosque from evil. 

The original yamur and cross from the Reconquest are displayed alongside a scale model of the minaret built by Abd ar-Rahman III at the Museo Arqueológico de Córdoba. 

However, a century after Abd ar-Rahman III’s reign, the Umayyad Empire teetered on the verge of collapse amid the chaos of civil war. Ferdinand III of Castile and his armies seized this opportunity, taking Córdoba by force on June 29, 1236. This pivotal moment marked the fall of the Great Mosque, which was converted into the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, dedicated to none other than the Virgin Mary. As a political declaration of victory, a Christian cross was placed atop the minaret’s yamur, a potent gesture marking the reconquest of the Catholic monarchy over its Islamic predecessors, with the alminar serving as the cathedral’s bell tower. 

Vista de Córdoba (View of Córdoba) by François Boussuet, painted in 1863, depicts the Guadalquivir River, the Roman Bridge and a view of the Mezquita-Catedral’s bell tower.

Monumental Changes: The Minaret Becomes The Bell Tower

The Mezquita remained mostly unchanged under the Castilian Christians until 1523, when Bishop Alonso de Manrique petitioned Charles V and obtained his approval to construct the massive Capilla Mayor and Coro Crucero — the main chapel’s cruciform nave and transept — a full-fledged cathedral placed rather unceremoniously at the center of the former mosque. 

An earthquake in 1589 left the bell tower unstable, leading to the decision to encase the structure. It was rebuilt and enlarged in the prevailing Renaissance style, under the direction of Hernán Ruiz III, the grandson of Hernán Ruiz the Elder, who had overseen the construction of the aforementioned Capilla Mayor. The lower half of the tower façade is marked by false windows, an architectural feature with horizontal lintel beams, bottom sills and indentations where a window might have gone. Additionally, it displays the various coats of arms belonging to the Cathedral Chapter, the patrons who financed the refurbishment. 

The fourth tier, or belfry, features a serilana — a window with three openings. This architectural element is distinguished by a central arched window flanked by a pair of rectangular ones and offers a glimpse of the 12 bells within. Above this are two oculi, small ovoid openings echoing the exterior façade of the Capilla Mayor. Construction halted multiple times as funds were redirected to complete the Capilla Mayor. Unfortunately, Ruiz didn’t live to see its completion, but I think he would’ve been pleased with the final outcome. 

Construction resumed in 1616 under the direction of architect Juan Sequero de Matilla. This phase included the addition of the smaller clock tower tier housing a pair of bells used to mark the passage of time. Its exterior is framed by pilaster columns topped by a triangular pediment, shields bearing the coat of arms of Bishop Diego de Mardones and arched windows in the middle of each side. 

Almost five decades later, Gaspar de la Peña was tasked with repairing the south and west façades of the bell tower. He added the circular cupola to the clock tower and a figure representing Córdoba’s patron saint, San Rafael, attributed to sculptors Pedro de Paz and Bernabé Gómez del Río, at the top. 

While the tower has undergone various restorations, the most comprehensive conservation effort to date commenced in 1991, when the building was closed, not reopening until 2014.

Where else would you get the best view of this charming town than from its tallest building?

How to Visit and Climb to the Top 

Following our early morning visit to the Mosque-Cathedral, we made a beeline to the kiosks beside the bell tower to secure tickets to climb it later that day. Wally purchased tickets for the 6 p.m. time slot (each priced at 3€, or about $3 at the time), figuring this would allow us to experience the enchanting “golden hour,” that magical time just before sunset.

This is how you access the staircase of the bell tower. Groups of 20 go every half hour.

Tickets can also be bought online. Tours commence every half-hour, running daily from 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Don’t assume you’ll be able to go right up the tower; tickets tend to sell out well before each time slot. Only 20 people are permitted to enter per group, and you must leave after the allotted 30 minutes. 

Keep in mind that tickets for the bell tower do not include entry to the Mosque-Cathedral, and vice versa.

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RELATED: Learn more about Córdoba’s must-visit La Mezquita with its mesmerizing arches.

How many pictures can elicit gasps of astonishment like this one?

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Before purchasing tickets, be aware of the following restrictions: Entry isn’t permitted for children under 7, those aged 7 to 14 must be accompanied by an adult, and elderly or individuals with health issues are advised against the climb. 

You can gaze upon the Courtyard of the Orange Trees and the Mosque-Cathedral from one side of the bell tower and a view of the narrow streets of the Historic Quarter on the other. 

The View From Above

Upon our return to tour the tower, we accessed it via Calle Cardenal Herrero and passed through the Puerta del Perdón, also known as the Gate of Forgiveness. Allegedly, pilgrims passing through this special passage received forgiveness for all their sins. The opulent Baroque-style vaulted ceiling is adorned with intricate plasterwork that includes cherubs, episcopal heraldry, tondos (circular reliefs with the images of the four Evangelists), and garlands of blue and gold flowers.

Crafted from pine and adorned with gorgeous geometrically patterned bronze plaques, the towering doors of the Gate of Forgiveness bear commemorative inscriptions as well as an elaborate door knocker. 

There’s no elevator, and the ascent is 191 steps. It was manageable, though, for a couple of middle-aged guys in decent shape. Besides, you can pause at various levels on your way up if you’d like. 

At one such place, we stopped to look down at a shimmering metal dome, before realizing it was the top of the old minaret! 

The minaret’s original cupola, adorned by a Christian cross, can be seen as you climb the bell tower.

The magnificent views of town and the Patio de los Naranjos definitely make the tower worth adding to your itinerary. Stop to gaze out on each side, gaining a different but equally impressive vista from every direction.

Who’d have thought that this what the rooftop of the cathedral looks like?!

Wally preferred the fourth tier, where you can marvel at the machinations of the bell chamber. Each bell has a different tone and name — La Esquila, La Asunción and San Zolio, to list a few. Some are marked with their year of manufacture and some bear the insignia of the bishop who commissioned their casting. 

Each of the bells is said to have its own nickname.

Don’t worry. Wally was just pretending the bells were ringing. 

While gazing out at the city, we couldn’t help but notice a sweet aroma of caramelized sugar wafting up from the street below. After we had climbed back down, we walked along the street to investigate — and determined that it had originated from Sabor de España, a confectionery shop. It specializes in treats, prominently featuring glossy cherry-red candied apples in their street-side window, along with caramelized nuts and turrón nougat.

Verdict: Make time to visit the bell tower. The panoramic views of the city are worth experiencing and for us, it was the perfect way to wrap up our day of sightseeing in this wondrous city. –Duke

 

Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba: Local Artists Through the Ages

Looking for things to do in Córdoba, Spain? Take a detour at the Cordoba Museum of Fine Arts and explore the city’s historic and artistic legacy.

The Cordoba Fine Arts Musuem is unassuming but provides an educational diversion for an hour or so. One gallery is dedicated to the works of sculptor Mateo Inurria and his works, including Les Tres Edades de la Mujer (The Three Ages of Woman) from 1923.

While looking for things for Wally and me to do beyond the remarkable Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba, I stumbled upon an image of a room featuring a vibrant yellow totemic sculpture. The picture, which intrigued me, was from the Turismo de Córdoba website and was one of the galleries inside the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba (Cordoba Fine Arts Museum). 

Colt Fountain in Plaza del Potro is an homage to the livestock that was once sold here.

Plaza del Potro: Where Livestock (and Sex) were Sold

The modest museum is tucked into a courtyard off the Plaza del Potro (Colt Square) and a short walk from where we were staying at Los Patios del Pañuelo. While commonly called a square, the plaza has evolved over time and is now a rectangle that stretches down to the Guadalquivir River. It contains two monuments: a fountain crowned with a sculpture of a rearing colt (hence the “potro” in its name), balanced atop a pineapple-shaped vase, and a statue of the archangel San Rafael, the city’s patron saint. 

Fun fact: Once a bustling hub for livestock traders, artisans and travelers, the square included the Posada de Potro (Colt Inn), a medieval brothel that was frequented by celebrated Spanish novelist Miguel de Cervantes. The author mentions the inn in his novel Don Quixote, referring to it as a “den of thieves.”

Sadly, the inn (a nicer way of saying whorehouse?), has since closed. Today, the storied property is home to the Centro Flamenco Fosforito, a small museum dedicated to renowned singer, Antonio Fernández Díaz, aka Fosforito, and the art of flamenco. 

To reach the museum, Wally and I went through a passage on the exterior of the former Franciscan Hospital de la Caridad (Charity Hospital), where the words “Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes” are carved in stone above the doorway. Once inside, we found a peaceful courtyard with a fountain surrounded by orange trees and a pair of busts. One pays homage to the museum’s first director, painter Rafael Romero Barros, while the other honors novelist, diplomat and politician Juan Valera. 

You enter the museum courtyard through the arched doorway seen here, underneath the fancy writing.

Andalusia is filled with charming courtyards, and this one doesn’t disappoint, with its beautiful stonework paths.

The museum’s collections span centuries and encompass paintings, drawings, sculptures and engravings by Cordoban artists from the 16th to the 21st century. 

After purchasing our entrance tickets, we noticed the bronze head of Gonzalo Fernández, the “Gran Capitán,” attributed to sculptor Mateo Inurria. 

Fernández earned his nickname “the Great Captain” by leading successful campaigns during the Conquest of Granada and the Italian Wars while serving the Catholic Monarchs, Ferdinand and Isabella.

Cabeza de Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba para el Monumento al Gran Capitán (Head of Gonzalo Fernández of Córdoba for the Monument to the Great Captain) by Mateo Inurria, 1915

Notice how the head of this statue is marble while the rest of it is bronze? The original metal head can be found in the Fine Arts Museum, though we’re not sure what prompted this odd decision.

Fun fact: This is the original head of an equestrian monument in la Plaza de las Tendillas, the town’s main square. For some reason, it was replaced by a head sculpted from white marble, in contrast to the rest of the figure.

You can start your exploration of the museum by turning left into the room covering the Baroque period and seeing religious art reappropriated by the government.

The Baroque in Córdoba 

We began our tour of the museum in Room IV, which held a number of impressive ecclesiastical works made at the height of Baroque painting in Córdoba. During this period, artists like Antonio del Castillo y Saavedra embraced naturalistic realism, employing chiaroscuro—the use of light and dark to emphasize the emotional narrative in their works. 

Inmaculada Concepción (Immaculate Conception) by Juan Antonio de Frías y Escalante, 1667

El Sacrificio de Isaac (The Sacrifice of Isaac) by Antonio del Castillo y Saavedra, circa 1650

The majority of these artworks were acquired from convents during La Desamortización, a period from 1835 to 1868, when the Spanish government seized monastic properties belonging to the Catholic Church, turning them into “national assets,” which were then sold at public auction to the highest bidder.  

One of the most coveted artistic projects after 1600 was the creation of 24 paintings for the altars of the cloister at the Franciscan Convent of San Pedro el Real by Antonio del Castillo. These canvases depict episodes from the life of Saint Francis de Assisi. In the museum’s painting, the scene depicts an angel holding the newborn saint above a baptismal font. 

Bautismo de San Francisco de Asis (Baptism of Saint Francis of Assisi) by Antonio del Castillo y Saavedra, circa 1664

Fun fact: The oil painting is signed “Non fecit Alfar” (Alfaro didn’t do it). This signifies that Castillo won the commission over his competitor, Juan de Alfaro y Gámez. How delightfully petty!

Bendición Sánchez by Julio Romero de Torres, 1904

The 18th and 19th Centuries in Córdoba 

The next gallery we visited contained works from the 18th and 19th centuries, predominantly featuring local landscapes, portraits and still lifes by the museum’s founder, Barros. 

Bodegón de Naranjas (Still Life With Oranges) by Rafael Romero Barros, 1863

The Baroque style eventually yielded to Rococo, and around 1775, in the wake of the Lisbon earthquake, it shifted once more, leading to a wave of local artists embracing Romanticism. Around this time, the Escuela Provincial de Bellas Artes was established, and within its walls, Barros emerged as a prominent figure. 

Barros assumed a dual role as both director and mentor to a group of art students, including Tomás Muñoz Lucena, Rafael Hidalgo de Caviedes and Inurria. Among them were his sons, Enrique, Rafael and Julio Romero de Torres.

Un Recuerdo de África, Novia Sefardí (A Memory of Africa, Sephardic Bride) by Rafael Romero Barros, 1878

Columbus Leaving the Mosque by Rafael Romero Barros, 1886

The painting Columbus Leaving the Mosque by Rafael Romero Barros was inspired by a poem by the Duke of Rivas titled “Romance of a Great Man.” It depicts Columbus leaving the Mosque-Cathedral after prayer and encountering his future mistress, Beatriz Enríquez de Arana, for the first time. According to legend, she brought Columbus to her home to protect him from mocking children who regarded him as a madman for seeking royal backing for his voyage to the New World.

We were pleasantly surprised to discover there was quite a large collection of modern art as well.

Art in the Modern Era: 20th Century and Beyond

Throughout the 20th century, local artists changed their styles to suit prevailing tastes, shifting from Realism to Modernism to Regionalism. They drew inspiration from contemporary artists like Rafael Botí, Pedro Bueno and Ángel López, who delved into Impressionism and Fauvism. In contrast, individuals like Antonio Rodríguez Luna and Alfonso Ariza embraced avant-garde movements such as Cubism, Abstraction and Expressionism.

Sin Título (Untitled) by José Duarte Montilla, 1981

El Cante (Flamenco Song) by Julia Hidalgo Quejo, 2005

La Fuente del Patio del Museo (The Fountain in the Museum Courtyard) by Rafael Botí Gaitán, 1990

Mujeres Vela (Sail Women) by Antonio Rodríguez Luna, 1945

A key figure among this group of artists was the sculptor Inurria. The museum has a room dedicated to his works.

Un Náufrago (A Castaway) by Mateo Inurria, 1890

While exploring the gallery, I was captivated by a peculiar painting by Ginés Liébana. His dreamlike piece Buenas Mujeres para ser Caballos (Good Women to Be Horses) was painted in 1979. Liébana creates a surreal scene by combining elements: a woman’s head adorned with a flower-covered hat on a horse’s body. He integrates local landmarks, such as the rearing colt of the Plaza del Potro and the figure of the Archangel Rafael, into this otherworldly landscape.

Buenas Mujeres para ser Caballos (Good Women to be Horses) by Ginés Liébana, 1979

Fun fact: Liébana contributed his distinctive style to Cántico, an avant-garde artistic magazine led by poet Ricardo Molina. The publication used poetry and illustration to challenge the status quo during the Franco dictatorship. 

Faded religious frescos and graffiti scribbled by hospital patients line the staircase.

Stairway to Heaven: Frescoes and Graffiti

The staircase leading to the upper floor includes graffiti that most likely was the work of hospital patients. One of these is a labyrinth with seven concentric circles surrounding a central point—visible beneath a monochromatic mural of Saint Jerome. 

On the rear wall, a religious scene depicts Christ on the Cross between the Virgin and Saint John the Evangelist. Flanking this central image is Saint Jerome, clutching a stone for beating his breast in penitence, and Saint Francis of Assisi in prayer. 

El Retablo de la Flagelación (Altarpiece of the Flagellation of Christ), circa 1500

Gothic and Renaissance Art in Córdoba 

The Gothic movement gained popularity in Córdoba in the late 14th century. However, it wasn’t until the 15th century that painters’ guilds flourished, distinguishing Córdoba from other Andalusian cities, such as Sevilla and Granada.

This environment was conducive to establishing major workshops by artists, including Alonso Martínez, Pedro de Córdoba, Jorge and Alejo Fernández, and Baltasar del Águila. Under the reigns of Charles V and Phillip II, local art underwent a transformation, departing from Gothic influences and embracing new expressions of Renaissance humanism. This worldview focused on the nature and importance of humanity that originated from the study of classical antiquity.

Here you can see an altarpiece from the chapel of a hospital founded in the 14th century by alderman Antón Cabrera and his wife, Beatriz de Heredia. The facility closed down in 1837. 

El Retablo de la Flagelación (Altarpiece of the Flagellation of Christ) is a superb example of the Córdoba school’s work and showcases the unknown artist’s adept use of Renaissance techniques. The composition of the figures reflects the Northern European style, popularized through engravings, and the panel as a whole draws inspiration from a similar painting produced by the German artist Martin Schongauer around 1480. 

Its side panels depict Saint John the Evangelist and Saint Anthony of Padua on the right, and Saint Anthony Abbot and Saint Francis of Assisi on the left, each with their distinctive iconography.

Fun fact: The artwork was initially misattributed to Alonso de Aguilar due to the mistranslation of a document accompanying the piece when it was acquired by the museum in 1866. 

Retrato de Joaquín y Rafael Mir de las Heras Niños (Portrait of Joaquin and Rafael Mir de las Heras Children) by Enrique Romero de Torres, 1905

A Life Fit for a Museum

The final gallery featured the exhibition Museum Worthy Life, dedicated to painter Enrique Romero de Torres (yes, the entire family had serious skills). After his father, Rafael, passed away in 1896, Enrique stepped up to run the museum as the director and curator. His responsibilities for the next 30 years kept him from dedicating himself entirely to painting. But under his direction, the renovations and expansions of the museum were carried out, with him paying for part of the works and donating, along with his brothers, paintings by his father. 

Take a quick lesson in local art history at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba, from Baroque to modern.

Listen, there are a lot of things you’ve gotta do in Córdoba, including La Mezquita, the Alcázar and the Palacio de Viana (not to mention taking a picture of the Roman Bridge). But if you have some free time, I recommend visiting this museum. Admission is only 1.50 euros (about $1.60) and is free to EU passport holders. The curation of each gallery is well thought out, ensuring an easy and enjoyable experience. Plus it’s a cool experience that will expose you to the artistic talents of Córdoba. –Duke

Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba 

Plaza del Potro, 1
Centro, 14002
Córdoba
Spain

 

The Mezquita: Córdoba’s Mesmerizing Mosque-Cathedral Hybrid

The Great Mosque of Córdoba, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Andalusia, endures as a monument to Spain’s cross-cultural harmony. 

Ancient Rome, Islamic Spain and Catholicism all come together in the breathtaking Mezquita in Córdoba.

It’s all about those arches. They seem to multiply into infinity, creating a seeming mirror maze of red and white latticework. It’s one of the iconic images that make Córdoba a must-visit stop on any trip to the south of Spain. 

The Mezquita in Córdoba is the perfect symbol of what Duke and I love about Andalusia. You have Roman influences, Islamic stylings and a Roman Catholic overlay. It’s a magical part of the world, where these three cultures blend together into architecture that can’t be found anywhere else but southern Spain. 

Case in point: Córdoba’s Great Mosque, known as the Mezquita, perpetually rising from its ashes like a phoenix over 10 centuries through a fascinating interplay of Roman, Islamic and Christian construction. 

“King Carlos I lamented his decision to allow the construction of the cathedral, saying, “They have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something commonplace.”

That’s a bit harsh.”

Parts of the massive structure’s exterior retain their Islamic architecture.

Abd ar-Rahman and the Start of the Mezquita

To understand Córdoba and the history of this amazing structure, we must travel to the Middle East and meet Abd ar-Rahman I, a member of the Umayyad dynasty in Damascus, Syria. Things aren’t going so well for the prince. His family was massacred by the Abbasids, rivals for Islamic rule, and Abd ar-Rahman fled, hiding out in the farthest corner of the Muslim world. That is, the south of Spain. 

He ended up in Córdoba. After wresting control of the city from the Visigoths, Abd ar-Rahman began eyeing the church of San Vicente, the largest in town. Not surprisingly, it had been been built upon the ruins of a Roman temple (you’ll notice a trend). Abd ar-Rahman purchased half of the church from the Christians to start, before eventually buying the rest. 

Then, in 786 CE, he tore down the church to construct his most important project: a massive cathedral mosque. 

The History of the Mezquita

The designers ran with those mesmerizing horseshoe arches, a style borrowed from the Visigoths, placing them atop recycled columns from the original Roman ruins. The distinctive red and white is a result of alternating brick and stone. The repetition of the arches was an attempt to evoke the infinite nature of Allah. I’d say they succeeded. 

“The aesthetics of the new Cordoban mosque, to which Muslims from far and wide throughout history would forever write odes, was typically Anadusian from the start: part adaptation of local, vernacular forms and part homage to Umayyad Syria, forever the source of hereditary legitimacy,” María Rosa Menocal writes in The Ornament of the World. 

“The Cordoba mosque continued to be built, and added to, for the next 200 years, until nearly the year 1000, but the characteristic look of the place, the horseshoe arches that sit piggybacked on each other, themselves dizzyingly doubled in alternations of red and white, were established from the start,” she continues.

Abd ar-Rahman II, great-grandson of his namesake (792-852), expanded the Great Mosque and added a new mihrab, a niche where Muslims face to pray. 

Then, Abd ar-Rahman III (891-961) enlarged the patio and built a new minaret, which stood 130 feet (40 meters) tall. 

All those red and white arches, designed to mimic infinity, are truly hypnotic.

His son, Al-Hakam (915-976), continued his father’s work — in fact, he’s responsible for the most impressive renovation of the space. He had new columns built, alternating pink and blue marble. Domes were added to let in light, while painted wood beams decorated the ceiling. The 11 naves were extended, and a larger qibla wall built (this is supposed to be the cue to facing Mecca, but more on that later). Oh, and there was a secret passage for the caliph to enter the mosque from his adjoining palace. 

Gorgeously painted wooden ceiling beams

At the end of the 10th century, Córdoba had become a bustling city. To accommodate the growing population, Almanzor (938-1002) made the courtyard bigger and added eight naves. These are the most austere of the bunch. Ultimately, the Mezquita could hold 40,000 worshippers. It was the largest mosque in the world at the time. 

It wasn’t just used for prayer, though; it was the center of Cordoban life. Judges made rulings near the mihrab. Teachers taught children under the arches. And traveling pilgrims were allowed to sleep there. 

Religious Reversal: From Mosque to Cathedral

In 1236, King Ferdinand III conquered Córdoba, returning the city to Christian rule. The mosque transitioned to the cathedral of Santa María, even as many Islamic elements endured. The Main Chapel is located under the skylight. 

King Henry II built the Royal Chapel to provide tombs for Castilian monarchs. This was done in the Mudéjar style, a delightful blend of Gothic and Islamic, using Muslim architects and carpenters. 

An area with pointed arches was built to give light and height for the choir as well as the church bigwigs. 

The structure remained largely the same until 1528, when King Carlos I gave permission to tear out the center of the mosque to build a proper cathedral, much to the dismay of many in Córdoba. Turns out he ended up agreeing with them. When the king visited, he lamented his decision, saying something along the lines of, “They have taken something unique in all the world and destroyed it to build something commonplace.” 

That might be a bit too harsh. This is still one impressive place of worship.

The choir stalls were built in the Baroque style of mahogany wood from Cuba. As in many Catholic churches, naves line the walls, containing small chapels. 

(FYI: Much of this history comes from a kid’s book we bought in town: La Mezquita de Córdoba by Manuel González Mestre, with fun illustrations by Jacobo Muñiz López.)

The Mihrab: Where Intricate Beauty Meets Spiritual Significance

While wandering the Mezquita, look for the mihrab. Among the monument’s ornate riches, none capture the cross-cultural transformation quite like the exquisite mihrab, located along the back wall on the right side. It’s considered the most sacred part of a mosque. 

Strangely enough, though, this qibla doesn’t actually indicate Mecca. Instead, it faces south. One theory is that it was a reference to the direction where Mecca would be from Abd ar-Rahman’s hometown of Damascus. Then again, it’s also thought that the streetscape didn’t allow for the qibla to face east as it should have, and instead was chosen to align with the Guadalquivir River.

When Córdoba was conquered by the Christians, they not only repurposed the mosque, they also recognized the mihrab’s beauty and spiritual importance — and actually preserved it! It’s a surprising moment where two faiths coexist within the same sacred space.

Intricate mosaics, geometric patterns and calligraphy intertwine to create a tapestry of colors and shapes that leaves visitors in awe. 

The Patio de los Naranjos: An Oasis of Tranquility

Chances are you’ll begin your exploration of the Mezquita in the Patio de los Naranjos, the Courtyard of the Orange Trees. For one thing, it’s where you line up to buy tickets. 

This tranquil oasis, with its fragrant blossoms and centuries of history, offers a contrast to the architectural wonders inside. And it’s not just orange trees — there are also olive trees, palms and cypresses. 

In its long history, this courtyard been a place for reflection, prayer and community gatherings. And there was a section where Muslims would perform their ablutions, or ritual cleansings, before entering the mosque. 

Visiting the Mezquita

Recognizing the Mezquita’s cultural and historical importance, UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site in 1984. This status is a testament to the ongoing efforts to protect and preserve the architectural marvel, ensuring that future generations can continue to be inspired by its grandeur.

Pro tip: The early bird gets the arch. 

We went early in the morning to see the Mezquita before mass was held. It’s free, so you don’t need to bother with tickets. (If you don’t go at this time, be sure to get your tickets as soon as possible. They cost 13 euros. I think it’s a good idea to book a day in advance if you have the time, but most travel sites say you don’t need to worry about it selling out. Call me paranoid.)

We figured the pre-mass time was a good way to escape the massive tour groups that would invade the space later in the day. To do so, you don’t go through the Patio de los Naranjos as you normally would. You enter through the Puerta de Santa Catalina. The one downside is that you don’t have a lot of time to explore. Get there right at 8:30, cuz security guards will kick you out around 9:20 so mass can begin. 

This trick is considered the worst-kept secret in Córdoba, so keep in mind that word has gotten out. But it’s still supposed to be better than most other times. If you can’t make it early, or want more time, try booking the end of the day.

More Metamorphoses: Temple to Church to Mosque to Cathedral 

Like the ceaselessly repurposed structures within its walls, the Mezquita represents the fluid nature of Spain’s cultural and religious history. As both mosque and church, this house of worship symbolizes Andalusia’s legacy as a place where Ancient Rome, Islam and Catholicism converge. For over 10 centuries, the awe-inspiring Mezquita has shifted shapes and uses but has endured. That’s typical of this wondrous part of Spain. –Wally

Saints, Statues and Semana Santa: A Tour of Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol’s Treasures

The oldest church in Málaga has a Picasso connection and is home to legendary Holy Week statuary, including El Rico, who pardons prisoners, and El Cristo de Medinaceli, who grants wishes.  

This figure depicts the Immaculate Conception of Mary. She stands atop a crescent moon and the world. Her left foot crushes a serpent, symbolizing the original sin assigned to all humans since Adam and Eve—except, of course, to the pure Virgin. 

You could easily walk past the exterior of the Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol without realizing the wonders that lie within. The church, which is dedicated to Saint James the Apostle, is located on Calle Granada and was under restoration when Wally and I visited our friends Jo and José in Málaga, Spain in 2015. We strolled by it multiple times, completely unaware of its spectacular interior and ended up buying a few whimsical wire and black glass marble ants from a street artist who had set up shop on a mat across from it.

The church’s wooden doors feature viera, or scallop shells, the symbol of Saint James. 

Eight years later, we were back in Spain, and Jo and José suggested adding it to our itinerary. We’re fortunate to know some locals, and we’re never disappointed by what they share with us. Plus, Wally and I love visiting old Catholic churches. These places are not just architecturally stunning; they’re usually brimming with vivid devotional art. And it goes without saying that Spain takes this to a whole other level.

The pointed brick arch of the central doorway framed by tiles arranged in a geometric pattern is all that remains of the former mosque.

From Mosque to Gothic Church 

After digging around a bit, I found out that this particular church was the first and oldest of the four parishes commissioned in Málaga by the Catholic Monarchs, Isabella and Ferdinand II. In fact, it dates back to 1509. The structure fuses Isabelline Gothic (a late Gothic/early Renaissance style) with Mudéjar elements and was established on the site of a mosque during the early stages of the city’s Christian conquest. Remnants of the former mosque were incorporated and are visible in the façade, particularly in the central doorway, where an elegant pointed arch is framed by tiles arranged in a geometric pattern that reads as floral. This arch would later evolve into the distinctive Gothic rib vault. In keeping with Islamic tradition, a minaret was built adjacent to the mosque, which was converted into the church’s bell tower during the late 16th century.

A view of the ornate central nave, dome and altar. The carved central altarpiece holds a likeness of the church’s patron, Santiago Apóstol aka Saint James.

the Interior of the Church of Santiago 

Inside, the Gothic style reveals itself in the vaulted ceilings and chancel of the central nave, which comprises the sanctuary, altar, choir and main chapel. The late 18th century saw the addition of two more naves, embellished in the Baroque style. The handsomely carved altarpiece is fashioned from polychromed (painted in many colors) and gilded wood, and the central niche holds a realistic statue of its patron saint, Santiago Apóstol (Saint James).

A depiction of Mary as the Queen of Heaven

Legend has it that following the death of Christ, James traveled to Galicia in northern Spain to spread the word of Christianity. However, things took a dark turn upon his return to Jerusalem — he was beheaded under King Herod’s order, becoming the first disciple to be martyred.

Málaga local Picasso was christened in this baptismal font, located near the entrance of the church. 

Fun fact: Pablo Picasso was christened in this church on November 10, 1881, and his baptismal certificate is kept here. Although his family moved to A Coruña in the Galicia region of northwest Spain when the artist was 9 years old, he always considered himself a malagueño, that is, someone from Málaga. 

This diminutive likeness of the Virgin Mary, Nuestra Señora del Pilar (Our Lady of the Pillar), stands atop a small column. You can’t see it because it’s covered by the red and gold mantle. 

A Tour of the Art and Semana Santa Statues of Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol

Among the significant religious artworks that can be found in the church’s naves is the Virgen de las Animas (Virgin and the Souls) by Juan Niño de Guevara, a large oil painting depicting the Mary comforting souls condemned to Purgatory. According to popular tradition, the faithful offer prayers to the image and leave bottles filled with lamp oil to keep the flames of the glass votives burning in perpetuity for the souls doing penance before being able to enter the kingdom of Heaven.

This oil painting, Virgen de las Animas (Virgin and the Souls) by Juan Niño de Guevara depicts Mary seated on a throne of clouds, comforting souls condemned to Purgatory. 

Additionally, the statues of the Cofradía del Rico and Hermandad de la Sentencia religious brotherhoods are kept inside this church year-round, except during Semana Santa (Holy Week). That’s when they’re placed on massive tronos, quite literally thrones, weighing up to 2 tons and are carried through the streets of Málaga by penitents and members of their religious fraternity.

This nave holds the processional images of Jesús de la Sentencia (Jesus of the Judgement), María Santísima del Amor Doloroso (Holy Mary of Sorrowful Love) and San Juan Evangelista (Saint John the Evangelist) which belong to the religious brotherhood of the Hermandad de la Sentencia. 

There are the venerated mannequin-like processional figures of María Santísima del Amor Doloroso (Holy Mary of Sorrowful Love) and Jesús El Rico (Jesus the Rich). To impart a heightened sense of realism, glass was used for the eyes, hair for the eyelashes and ivory for the teeth. 

Jesús El Rico (Jesus the Rich) hides behind María Santísima del Amor Doloroso (Holy Mary of Sorrowful Love), which belong to the brotherhood of the Cofradía del Rico. El Rico pardons one prisoner each year.

The Ultimate Get Out of Jail Free Card 

El Rico has extended pardons as an act of grace every Holy Wednesday, a tradition that traces its roots back to 1759. The practice of extending a second chance to a prisoner originated during the plague epidemic that swept across Europe during the reign of Carlos III. 

It’s said that a riot erupted after inmates learned that Holy Week processions would be canceled due to contagion fears. In response to the news, prisoners mutinied, broke out of jail and carried the life-sized statue of Jesus through the streets of Málaga, praying for salvation from the plague. Rather than fleeing afterward, they chose to return to prison. Impressed by their act of piety, the king decided to grant the Cofradía del Rico brotherhood, the guardians of El Rico, the right to release one prisoner every year. To this day, El Rico symbolically performs this act.

On the first Friday of March, the venerated figure of El Cristo de Medinaceli is taken from his niche, redressed and placed upon a gilded platform. Devotees kiss his feet, leave three coins and make a wish for each — only one of which will be granted.

Make a Wish Foundation

If these treasures in this historic church aren’t enough to pique your interest, there’s one more notable devotional figure worth mentioning within the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol: El Cristo de Medinaceli (Christ of Medinaceli). It received its name because the original was owned by the Duke of Medinaceli.

Every first Friday of March, devotees queue up outside the parish doors and wait their turn to kiss the statue’s feet. They also place three coins — they have to be of the same value — at his feet and make three different wishes. Be careful, though: Only one of your wishes will come true.

One of the most dramatic aspects of the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol (and that’s saying something!) is the blue hue of this elaborate dome. 

This relief depicts a crowded take on the Last Supper. 

If you’re in the neighborhood, and you don’t stop by and admire the Semana Santa statues here, you’ll wish you had. –Duke

Iglesia de Santiago

Calle Granada, 78
29015 Málaga
España

 

From Bishop’s Manor to Boutique Haven: Los Patios del Pañuelo in Córdoba

Looking for places to stay in Córdoba, Spain? You’ll count your blessings when you experience the tranquil beauty of this sanctuary-like lodging in the Casco Antiguo, or Old Town. 

The entrance patio is furnished with a sofa, a set of barrel chairs and a low table. Because it was right outside the door to Apartment 2, we liked to think of it as ours — but were willing to share if need be.

There are certain places that leave a lasting impression long after you’ve left, and without a doubt Los Patios del Pañuelo is one of them. The aparthotel (get it? It’s sort of an apartment complex, sort of a boutique hotel!) is located within the UNESCO-listed Casco Antiguo, the historic Old Town of Córdoba, Spain and is where Wally and I recently stayed for two nights. Perhaps it was the weathered but rather grand brick arcades that reflect the passage of time, or the monastic tranquility of its communal courtyards, with their softly gurgling fountains. Or maybe, just maybe, it was its prime location. It’s close to the city center and less than a five-minute walk from the Mezquita, Córdoba’s magnificent mosque-cathedral. 

“When building the complex, the owners sought to unify three properties. The result is a harmonious blend of contemporary conveniences, restored period details, natural materials and exquisite craftsmanship.”

Wally leans against the Los Patios complex’s exterior wall in one the narrow pedestrian lanes that make Córdoba so charming — and provide a respite from the heat.

Finding Los Patios del Pañuelo

On the afternoon of our arrival, our cab driver dropped Wally and I off on Calle Rey Heredia and directed us to an opening between the shops, which marked the entrance to Calle Osio, the pedestrian-only passage where Los Patios del Pañuelo is located. The cobblestone thoroughfare is named after Hosius aka Osio, who was the first bishop of Córdoba from 295-357 CE.  

Before it was renamed for the cleric, the street bore the name Espalda de Santa Clara, which referred to the defunct Convento de Santa Clara. A 3-by-3-inch hand-painted tile displaying its old name remains securely affixed to one of the walls off the street. Osio is spelled out in tiles to the right, but only the O and S peek out from behind a circular red and white sign. We were a bit perplexed as we tried to orient ourselves.

Look closely: The mitre and crozier, symbols of a bishop, are visible above the entrance to Los Patios del Pañuelo.

Adding to our confusion was the irregular order of street numbers. As we were walking along the street in search of number 10, with our suitcase in tow, we came to a halt in front of a white powder-coated steel screen with the word “Patios…” laser-cut into it. Although the address didn’t match, we glimpsed a courtyard beyond and decided to ring the doorbell at the adjacent door. To our surprise, a short, older woman, in the midst of dyeing her hair, greeted us with a warm smile and a towel around her neck. She chuckled and told us to continue a bit farther up the street. We thanked her and resumed our journey. 

An interior window acts as a perfect frame for a view of the gorgeous courtyard beyond.

Eventually we found Los Patios del Pañuelo and entered the keyless security code we had been provided with prior to our arrival. Los Patios sits within the two-story 17th century manor that was the former residence of the aforementioned bishop, which extends into two adjoining properties (a mitre and crozier, the liturgical headdress and ceremonial staff of a bishop, can be seen above the entrance). 

Its name comes from Calleja del Pañuelo, the narrow alley that runs behind the last of the complex’s three interior courtyard apartments. If you’re as curious as I was about the name, it roughly translates to Handkerchief Alley. This is because the passageway’s width measures around 20 inches, or 50 centimeters — no wider than a fancy gentleman’s or a lady’s lace handkerchief, which was once a must-have accessory for high society.

A kinetic modern painting depicting the nativity, with Joseph, Mary and baby Jesus, by Kiko Flores, is displayed on the first patio and is a ode to the building’s previous life. 

Beyond the heavy wooden doors is a foyer with a reception desk and a set of numbered wall boxes corresponding to the apartments, where you can securely stash your key when you leave for the day. I found this feature to be liberating. A concierge, Maria, was present when we arrived to complete our check-in, and either herself or Judit can be easily reached during off-hours via WhatsApp.  

The living room area in Apartment 2, looking at the kitchen. We loved the zen-like calm the space evoked, and details like the wood-beamed ceilings.

A Stay in Apartment 2

Wally and I stayed in apartment 2, Antonio Jesús. Each of the 13 apartments has been named for the owner’s numerous children in order of age. The 14th bears his and his wife’s name, Antonio and Mati. 

Our apartment was equipped with air conditioning and situated on the ground floor off the first patio. We had an inviting outdoor seating area with a fountain, reached through the flat’s sliding glass doors. It served as a welcome retreat from the crowds and sweltering heat. During our three-day visit in early October, the city sizzled at a scorching 93°F (33°C). 

Clean lines and sleek cabinetry keep the kitchen uncluttered.

Upon entering the flat, we found a welcome basket filled with a carton of juice, milk, a loaf of brioche, and single-serve packets of olive oil, marmalade and Nutella placed on the coffee table in the living room and kitchen. The kitchen runs along one wall. It’s small but was equipped with a Nespresso coffeemaker, refrigerator, radiant electric cooktop and a washing machine, all neatly concealed within custom-made cabinets. 

This was the bedroom we chose to sleep in.

Apartment 2 has a second bedroom.

The muted palette matches the natural, earthy tones of weathered brick and stone of the courtyard, while the high, lofted ceilings evoke a distinctly Moorish influence. The bedrooms, serene and cozy, with thick stone walls and luxurious beds, afforded us a restful night’s sleep. 

The small but modern bathroom in Apartment 2

I admired the details throughout the apartment: the exposed wooden beams, natural stone floors, linen curtains and plaster walls. In addition, the bathroom features a rain shower and is stocked with orange and cedarwood-scented body care products by Rituals. 

Period details like the brick arches and columns were restored during the renovation and came from the nearby ancient city of Madinat al-Zahra. Be sure to explore each patio to appreciate each one’s unique beauty. 

A Heavenly Blend of Historic and Contemporary

When building the complex, the owners enlisted the expertise of local firm Amas Studio to unify the properties. The result is a harmonious blend of contemporary conveniences, restored period details, natural materials and exquisite craftsmanship.

During our stay, Wally and I explored the complex, which is divided into three zones. The first patio (we liked to think of it as ours) has columns with rounded Tuscan capitals, exposed sand-colored brick, and a square fountain. 

Every corner of Los Patios del Pañuelo pays homage to its past. This includes a stone fountain adorned with lion heads in the second terrace — an original fixture that’s been lovingly restored. 

The other courtyards feature columns topped with Arabesque designs. The second one has an octagonal fountain with a bowl adorned by four lion’s heads spouting water, encircled by a meticulously arranged mosaic created from thousands of rounded black and putty-colored river rocks, arranged into a pattern that radiates like sunbeams.

The best-kept secret of Los Patios is the balcony off the meeting room. The charming concierge recommended we go up there with some drinks to enjoy the sunset.

Los Patios del Pañuelo offers the advantage of catering to both short visits and extended stays and was the perfect home base for us. If you’re searching for a great place to spend a few days or more in Córdoba, your search can end here. –Duke

The name awkwardly translates to The Patios of the Handkerchief, referring to a narrow alley out back.

Los Patios del Pañuelo

Calle Osio 10
14003 Córdoba 
Spain 

 

Iconic Stadiums and Sporting Landmarks Around the World

From the Colosseum to Dodger Stadium, from Wembley to Yankee Stadium, we’ve got a winning itinerary of the planet’s most iconic sporting landmarks. Game on, sports fans!

Sports stadiums have been gathering spots for ages, where people have come to witness athletic feats, whether that’s a fight between gladiators in Ancient Rome or today’s games. From the deafening cheers to the hushed silences, these places have seen raw emotions on full display.

Now, get ready for a global journey for sports fans: We’ll be making stops at some of the world’s most iconic stadiums and sporting landmarks. From an ancient arena to modern architectural marvels, we’ll dig into their history and the architects who brought them to life, throw in some interesting facts, and even point out a few nearby attractions.

All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club

This London site has hosted Wimbledon since 1877. The world famous tournament is one of the big four in professional tennis, commonly known as the Grand Slams. And when  tennis folk mention a “Grand Slam,” they mean winning all four major championships, held in Australia, France, the U.K. and the United States, in the same calendar season.

Architect: Stanley Peach

Fun fact: The retractable roof installed in 2009 ensures that play can continue even during the all-too-common English summer rain. 

Nearby attractions: Visit the Victoria & Albert, an amazing museum of art and design, or grab your baking buddies and live your Great British Bake Off fantasy at the Big London Bake.

Cleveland Browns Stadium

For die-hard American football fans, this place is like sacred turf. When the players hit the field and the game intensifies, you’re in for all the highs and lows of a typical game. And if you’re looking to crank up the experience and try to win some money, hedge your bets with this deal.

Architect: Populous (formerly HOK Sport) 

Fun fact: The stadium was designed to give spectators unobstructed views of the city skyline and Lake Erie. 

Nearby attractions: Why not make a day of it? You can check out the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame or take a leisurely afternoon stroll through the Cleveland Botanical Garden.

The Colosseum

The ancient world had its own versions of sporting arenas, but let’s be honest — none could quite rival the grandeur and infamy of Rome’s magnificent Colosseum. This colossal wonder serves as a testament to the might of the Roman Empire, along with its insatiable appetite for entertainment. The arena’s innovative elliptical shape laid the foundation for modern stadiums.

Constructed under the Flavian dynasty between 72 and 81 CE, the massive amphitheater could seat over 50,000 spectators. In addition to hosting animal hunts and gladiatorial battles, the arena could be flooded with water, where battles between ships would take place — all to the roaring approval or dismay of the audience.

Architect: Commissioned by Emperor Vespasian and completed by his son Titus

Fun fact: Beneath the Colosseum’s floor was a vast subterranean substructure known as the hypogeum. This included a complex network of tunnels and chambers where gladiators, ferocious beasts and sinister contraptions for special effects were kept before fights. 

Nearby attractions: You won’t have to go far at all to dive into Ancient Roman history. Just a stone's throw away, you’ve got the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, waiting to transport you back in time.

Dodger Stadium

SoCal vibes meet America’s so-called favorite pastime at Dodger Stadium. Serving as home base for the Los Angeles Dodgers, it’s been an integral part of the MLB (Major Baseball League) scene since it opened in 1962. Built in the valley of Chavez Ravine and set against the backdrop of the San Gabriel Mountains, its scenic beauty complements the thrilling baseball action. 

Architect: Emil Praeger 

Fun fact: The concept for Dodger Stadium began to take shape in 1957, following the team’s relocation from Brooklyn, New York. Today, it holds the title as the oldest ballpark west of the Mississippi River and ranks as the third-oldest MLB ballpark, behind Boston’s Fenway Park and Chicago’s Wrigley Field. 

Nearby attractions: Reach for the stars at Griffith Observatory or visit historic Olvera Street, where you’ll find the colorful Mexican Marketplace. 

Estádio do Maracanã

Constructed to serve as the main venue for the 1950 World Cup, Rio de Janeiro’s Maracanã Stadium embodies Brazil’s unwavering passion for football (known to us Americans as soccer). This stadium has borne witness to some of the sport’s most historic moments, including the legendary Brazilian footballer Pelé scoring his 1,000th career goal here in 1969. 

Architect: Rafael Galvão and Pedro Paulo B. Machado 

Fun fact: The World Cup final held at Maracanã still holds the record for the highest attendance, with a crowd estimated at over 199,000.

Nearby attractions: Take the cog train to the top of Corcovado Mountain to reach the awe-inspiring Christ the Redeemer statue or visit the white sand beaches of Ipanema.  

Estadio Santiago Bernabéu

Madrid’s Estadio Santiago Bernabéu stands as a monument to football royalty. It has hosted the final match of the UEFA Champions League on four occasions (1957, 1969, 1980 and 2010) and is the home of the Galácticos: the world’s priciest players signed to play for Real Madrid. From David Beckham to Alfredo Di Stéfano to Cristiano Ronaldo, this stadium has borne witness to legends and epic clashes.

Architect: Manuel Muñoz and Luis Alemany Soler, with a revamp by L35, Ribas & Riba, and GMP Architekten

Fun fact: The Bernabéu has an unusual vertical design, making it one of the steepest stadiums in the world, helping ensure that every fan has a great view. 

Nearby attractions: For those seeking a cultural experience, Madrid beckons with its treasures, such as the Prado Museum and the Royal Palace.

Fenway Park

As home to the Boston Red Sox, Fenway Park proudly holds the title of being the oldest ballpark in Major League Baseball. It boasts a 37-foot-high (11 meters) left field wall affectionately known by locals as the Green Monster. (It was added a couple of years after opening to deter curious passersby from sneaking a glimpse.)

Architect: James McLaughlin

Fun fact: The lone red seat that sits among the green right field bleachers commemorates the longest home run in Fenway Park history, which was hit by Ted Williams on June 9, 1946. Legend holds that Williams spotted a fan taking a nap and decided to wake him up by launching a ball at him.

Nearby attractions: After the game’s over, you’ve got some great options for entertainment. You can explore Boston's historic Freedom Trail or head over to the lively Quincy Market. 

Indianapolis Motor Speedway

Racing enthusiasts know that there’s no place quite like the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in Indiana. The thrill, the speed and the history — it’s all there. Traditionally, the race is held over the last weekend of May and stands as one of the oldest and largest single-day sporting events in the world.

Architect: Not attributed to a specific architect or firm

Fun fact: Originally, this race was called the 500-Mile Sweepstakes, but its name went through quite a few changes over time. The “500” stuck around, though. Drivers hit 500 miles by going 200 laps around the 2.5-mile oval.

Nearby attractions: The Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum offers an in-depth exploration of racing history. You can also discover artworks along the 100-acre riverfront Virginia B. Fairbanks Art & Nature Park. 

Madison Square Garden

New York City’s Madison Square Garden has been the stage for some of the 20th century’s greatest athletes, from boxing legend Muhammad Ali to hockey great Mark Messier. Nicknamed the World’s Most Famous Arena, the venue has witnessed a bit of everything — from Marilyn Monroe singing “Happy Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy at the 1962 Democratic Party fundraising dinner to the excitement of Knicks basketball and Rangers hockey games.

Architect: Stanford White, Cass Gilbert and Charles Luckman

Fun fact: Madison Square Garden has been rebuilt a total of four times since 1879. Its current iteration was designed by American architect Charles Luckman in 1968, whose firm also designed the Prudential Tower in Boston and the Forum in Inglewood, California.

Nearby attractions: Explore the High Line, a public park built on a historic elevated rail line and watch the sunset over Manhattan from the 86th floor of the Empire State Building. 

Melbourne Cricket Ground

Over in Australia, you’ve got the Melbourne Cricket Ground, or MCG to locals. This place is like the crown jewel of Aussie sports venues, and it’s a big deal, as it’s the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. It was built to satisfy the continent’s cricket craze, and it was here that the world’s first test cricket match took place, in 1877. Test cricket is like the granddaddy of the sport, lasting a full five days, where two national teams take turns batting and bowling. It was a faceoff between Australia and England, and in the end, Australia came out on top, winning by 45 runs. 

Architect: Various (the stadium has undergone multiple renovations)

Fun fact: The MCG’s six light towers are 75 meters high, equivalent to a 22-story building and are the tallest of any sporting venue in the world.

Nearby attractions: Take a leisurely stroll along the Yarra River or visit the National Sports Museum for a comprehensive exploration of Australia’s sports legacy. 

San Siro Stadium 

Italy’s San Siro is one of the most legendary venues for football (soccer). It’s officially named Stadio Giuseppe Meazza in memory of Milanese footballer Giuseppe Meazza and is home to both Inter and AC Milan, two top professional teams.

AC Milan was founded in 1899, and Inter Milan followed nine years later in 1908. Interestingly, Inter’s formation was a result of a disagreement within AC Milan’s ranks, particularly regarding the signing of foreign players. A fierce rivalry emerged, cranking up the already electrifying atmosphere of the annual Milan Derby, which, as you might have guessed, takes place at none other than San Siro.

Architect: Ulisse Stacchini and Alberto Cugini

Fun fact: In preparation for the 1990 World Cup, architects Giancarlo Ragazzi and Enrico Hoffer, along with engineer Leo Finzi, designed the addition of the stadium’s third tier, suspended by its 11 spring-like towers and crisscrossed red steel girders. These enhancements were aimed at boosting San Siro’s seating capacity. 

Nearby attractions: The Castello Sforzesco and the gorgeous Gothic-style Milan Cathedral, known as the Duomo, (the third largest church in the world) are situated in the heart of the city.

SoFi Stadium

Home to the Los Angeles Rams and Chargers, this stadium sets the bar high with its innovative design and immersive state-of-the-art facilities. The 3.1-million-square-foot (288,000-square-meter) arena is the largest in the NFL. 

Architect: HKS 

Fun fact: The stadium features the Oculus, an oval, double-sided infinity screen suspended 122 feet (37 meters) above the playing field. This massive display includes a 4K HDR video board and 27,000 embedded LED pucks capable of displaying images and videos in such high resolution that you can spot them from airplanes arriving at Los Angeles International Airport.

Nearby attractions: Take in a concert at the Kia Forum or grab a donut at Randy’s. The original shop features a massive 32-foot-tall donut on its roof, and has appeared in movies like Wayne’s World and Iron Man. 

Stade Roland-Garros

Paris is home to this mecca for clay court tennis. It’s the place where the French Open goes down every year. For two action-packed weeks, the best international players, including Björn Borg and Rafael Nadal, gather to battle it out on its challenging courts. And there are 17 of them, including the central Philippe-Chatrier court, which has a retractable roof to keep the game going when it rains.

Architect: Louis Faure-Dujarric 

Fun fact: The stadium features an open-air courtyard dedicated to France’s Four Musketeers, or les Quatre Mousquetaires. It’s a nod to a quartet of iconic French players: Jean Borotra, Jacques Brugnon, Henri Cochet and René Lacoste, who made their country proud in the tennis scene during the 1920s and ’30s. Lacoste even got his nickname “the Crocodile,” thanks to his big grin and iron grip on his racket. And guess what? He later went on to create the clothing brand famous for that embroidered crocodile logo.

Nearby attractions: The enchanting Bois de Boulogne park is right next door, and the Eiffel Tower is a short distance away.

Wembley Stadium

Crossing over to the British Isles, Wembley Stadium in London is a pilgrimage site for football/soccer fans. The venue hosts major matches, including the home games of the England national football team and the Football Association Challenge Cup final as well as hosting concerts from bands like Green Day. 

Sir Robert McAlpine laid the foundation for the original, which was constructed for the British Empire Exhibition of 1924 and was quite a marvel, being the largest reinforced concrete building of its time. Its famous twin towers were symbols of the game and served as the backdrop for some of the most epic moments in football for over 75 years.

The new Wembley, designed nearly 16 years ago by Foster + Partners, is twice the size of the old one and comes with modern upgrades like a retractable roof for those unpredictable weather days and a soaring arch that’s taken over as the iconic replacement for the twin towers.

Architect: Robert McAlpine, then Norman Foster

Fun fact: The Wembley Arch soars to a staggering height of 133 meters, equivalent to about 30 stories, and stretches 315 meters (over 1,000 feet), solidifying its status as the world’s longest single-span roof structure. It’s functional too, though: It bears the majority of the roof’s weight.

Nearby attractions: Located adjacent to the stadium, the London Designer Outlet (LDO) is a great place to get your shopping fix. Or you can spend a fun afternoon at the landmark Natural History Museum. They’ve got hands-on exhibits and even animatronic dinosaurs!

Wrigley Field

If you breeze into Chicago, aka the Windy City, you’ve got to stop by Wrigley Field, America’s second-oldest Major League ballpark. If we’re talking about a stadium that can rival Boston’s Green Monster, Wrigley’s ivy-covered outfield wall is a strong contender. It’s so iconic, it’s got its own set of rules: If a baseball disappears into its vines, the batter (and all runners) are granted two bases. However, to make it official, an outfielder must raise his hand to signal that the ball is lost in the ivy. If he doesn’t, it’s considered fair play. 

Architect: Zachary Taylor Davis

Fun fact: The neighborhood stadium was one of the last Major League ballparks to install lights for night games, which didn’t happen until 1988. The tale of these floodlights dates back to the early 1940s, when plans were set in motion, but a pivotal twist occurred after the attack on Pearl Harbor. In a patriotic gesture, Philip K. Wrigley, owner of the Cubs, diverted 165 tons of steel to support the war effort instead of installing the lights.

Nearby attractions: After the game, you can wander the lively Wrigleyville neighborhood. And if you’re up for more adventure, don’t miss the chance to explore the city’s legendary architecture by taking a boat tour along the Chicago River. 

Yankee Stadium

The original Yankee Stadium was a massive horseshoe-shaped ballpark and one of the most beloved structures in the history of baseball. Its field witnessed legendary players like Babe Ruth, Lou Gehrig, Joe DiMaggio and Mickey Mantle rounding its bases, to name just a few.

In 2009, the torch was passed to the new Yankee Stadium. Inspired by the 1923 Bronx Stadium, the modern four-story limestone and granite-faced ballpark even re-created the arched Art Deco metal frieze that crowned the upper deck of its illustrious predecessor.

Architect: Populous (formerly HOK Sport)

Fun fact: The Yankees’ impressive HD display is about 103 feet (30 meters) wide and 58 feet (18 meters) tall — six times larger than the screen at the old stadium. 

Nearby attractions: Check out the Bronx Museum of the Arts and explore the impressive Victorian-era greenhouses of the New York Botanical Garden.

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These stadiums and sporting venues are more than just places to watch a game — they are monuments to athletic achievement and the human spirit. Within their walls and on their fields, records have been broken, underdogs have triumphed, and fans have bonded over the shared passions of competition and community. Though styles and designs may change with the times, the thrill of cheering for the home team endures. The legends, memories and traditions attached to these landmarks will continue to inspire athletes and fans for generations to come. Wherever you are in the world, paying a visit to one of these iconic sporting meccas is a must for any true sports lover. –Taylor Miller