From Freaks to Serial Killers: The Dark Wonders of Graveface Museum

Dive into a world of roadside oddities, taxidermy curiosities, cult memorabilia and chilling true crime tales — including the legacies of Ed Gein and John Wayne Gacy — at Graveface Museum.

The devil’s in the details: the iconic entrance to the Graveface Museum

If your idea of the perfect afternoon includes taxidermied animals, Church of Satan memorabilia, paintings made by a serial killer, and an arcade filled with vintage monster-themed pinball machines, then the Graveface Museum might just be your new happy place. Tucked away in Savannah, Georgia’s historic Byck building along the cobblestoned Factors Walk, this one-of-a-kind museum is a must-visit for enthusiasts of the macabre, the mysterious and the downright bizarre.

Originally, Duke and I had planned a day trip to Savannah with my mom, but she decided to sit this one out due to the blustery, cold winter weather. With just the two of us making the trip, we decided to explore some of the city’s more unusual shops and attractions. 

We took an Uber from Hilton Head, South Carolina and had the driver drop us off in the artsy Starland district. It was here among the shops that we stumbled upon Graveface Records & Curiosities, a combination vinyl and oddities shop founded by Ryan Graveface — a musician, record label owner and lifelong collector of all things peculiar. (Something tells me he would get along well with Ryan and Regina Cohn, whom we’ve dubbed the King and Queen of Oddities.)

After exploring the Starland district and other aspects of quirky Savannah, we made our way to Bay Street. The Graveface Museum is tucked away in the historic Byck building at 420 East Factors Walk, a cobblestone thoroughfare sandwiched between River Street and Bay Street. Keep an eye out: This hidden gem isn’t as obvious as the tourist stops along the river — but that only adds to its allure. 

The museum pays homage to all things creepy or unusual.

A Grave Undertaking 

The museum opened in February 2020 (right before the pandemic hit, gulp) as a passion-project-turned-immersive-experience. Given that Ryan’s last name is Graveface, an affinity for the macabre seems inevitable. With a mission to preserve and showcase the stranger aspects of history, he’s curated an eclectic mix of roadside attractions, true crime artifacts, cult memorabilia and secret society paraphernalia, among other peculiarities.

Highlights include the largest private collection of John Wayne Gacy’s paintings, artifacts from Ed Gein’s notorious crimes, and exhibits on topics ranging from Satanism to UFO cults. The museum also features a free pinball arcade, offering visitors a chance to unwind after exploring its darker displays.

The eclectic gift shop

Enter Through the Gift Shop

Your journey into the macabre begins in a gift shop that’s as offbeat as the museum itself. Part retail space, part curiosity cabinet, it’s stocked with horror-themed merchandise, oddities and hilariously gory painted movie posters from Ghana, Africa. It’s an appetizer for the weirdness that lies ahead.

Sunny days…with a side of terror: Ernie and Bert masks up front

The $25 entrance fee might seem a bit steep, but if you’re into all things weird, it’s worth it. The staff is brimming with enthusiasm, eager to share their knowledge of the unusual. With your ticket in hand, you’re ready to step into a world where the bizarre, the dark and the fascinating collide. Step right up — into the gaping maw of a bright red devil.

The first room of the museum houses medical oddities like the Spiderfawn.

The Tour Begins: Roadside Oddities

The first room welcomes you into a world of roadside curiosities — an homage to the kitschy, the creepy and the oddly endearing. Here, you’ll find displays of “freaks of nature”: a taxidermied faun with two heads and extra legs, and Clementine, a calf with five legs — a mix of biology gone awry and human fascination with the unnatural.

But not everything is what it seems. This room dives into the art of Homer Tate, nicknamed the “King of Gaffes” for devising grotesque, cobbled-together creations that once dazzled and duped carnival-goers, including a few variations of the infamous Fiji mermaid. Our favorite was the one called Fish Girl, which incorporated the red hair of Tate’s wife and a cat’s teeth. 

This Fiji mermaid is a hoax by Homer Tate, who used his wife’s hair and his cat’s teeth.

Apparently, Tate also produced shrunken heads — some fake, some real! — and was arrested for grave robbing. However, since he was the town sheriff, he didn’t spend have to worry about spending time behind bars.

Also in this first room are dioramas of taxidermied critters that reveal a peculiar Victorian obsession: crafting miniature scenes featuring preserved animals in quirky, anthropomorphic roles. These whimsical displays, once popular showpieces for the 19th century elite, straddle the line between charming and unsettling. Our favorite? A tiny circus featuring prematurely born kittens as the star performers — walking the tightrope, balancing on balls and delighting an imaginary crowd. What else would you expect from the generation that created death photography?

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RELATED: See this roadside oddity in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

Cute l’il Clementine was born with five legs. You can see the purple mirrored chamber about Heaven’s Gate and alien abductions.

Alien Abductions and Heaven’s Gate

From roadside oddities, you’re transported into a small, mirrored room that feels like stepping into another dimension. This space is dedicated to UFO lore, alien abductions, and one of the most infamous cults of modern times: Heaven’s Gate. A  video loop of its founder anchors the exhibit and offers a chilling glimpse into the cult, whose members believed they would ascend to an alien spacecraft trailing the Hale-Bopp comet. 

The room’s mirrors amplify the eerie vibe, reflecting the otherworldly artifacts and making you feel like you’ve entered a cosmic echo chamber.

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RELATED: Are there alien-human hybrids on Earth?!

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The mannequin on the right is of Anton LaVey, who founded the Church of Satan.

Satanism and Secret Societies

The next stop on our journey delved into the forbidden, the misunderstood and the hidden corners of belief systems. 

One room is dedicated to Satanism, with a focus on the Church of Satan and its theatrical founder, Anton LaVey, whose philosophy challenged societal norms and fueled decades of controversy. Sexual liberation played a major part in LaVey’s teachings, and he encouraged members to embrace it. LaVey contended that living in a society in which we repress our natural urges and instincts results in unhappiness. 

From there, we entered a room dedicated to Christianity and secret societies like the international Order of Oddfellows. Artifacts from these groups reveal a fascinating interplay between faith, ritual and mystery. 

The juxtaposition of these belief systems — one often feared and the other foundational to Western culture — invites you to ponder the fine line between the sacred and the profane.

Stop and play some pinball to prep yourself for a (serial) killer ending.

The Pinball Arcade

Just when the heavy, dark vibe starts to settle in, the museum offers a much-needed breather: a room filled with vintage pinball machines. It’s a welcome shift in atmosphere, adding a playful, nostalgic charm to the experience.

Of course the lineup features creepy classics like The Addams Family, Dracula, and Halloween, a perfect nod to the museum’s macabre aesthetic. Best of all? These machines are free to play. Whether you’re a seasoned pinball wizard or just looking for a moment to decompress, this quirky arcade is the perfect palate cleanser before diving back into the dark history waiting around the corner.

This macabre display is a re-creation of Ed Gein’s final murder, where he decapitated a woman’s head and mutilated her genitals.

Haunted House: Ed Gein’s World

From pinball nostalgia, you’re thrust into the unsettling world of Ed Gein, aka the “Butcher of Plainfield” — a man whose gruesome crimes blurred the line between true crime and urban legend. The guided tour through Gein’s macabre legacy busts some of the myths that have grown around his name. No, there weren’t lampshades made of human skin or a “nipple belt.” (Gein didn’t even have electricity, and that infamous accessory was a hoax made out of latex.) But yes, he really did use skin to upholster the seat of a chair, and he carried around a nifty keychain made from a piece of his mom’s scalp and hair. 

Ed Gein inspired numerous villains in horror movies, including Psycho, The Silence of the Lambs and The Texas Chain Saw Massacre.

Gein, who robbed graves and murdered two women, is the inspiration for countless fictional killers, from Norman Bates to Buffalo Bill and Leatherface. The exhibit doesn’t flinch in showing the grisly details, including a diorama of his final victim. She’s depicted hanging upside down, her head cut off, and her genitals mutilated, revealing the true depravity of his crimes. This was to me the most disturbing aspect of the museum. 

We followed our guide up a staircase lined with grisly black and white crime scene photos of mob hits that reminded me of the work of Weegee. 

And yet, as shocking as it all is, there’s something oddly captivating about Gein himself. The small town simpleton obviously had horrific hidden depths. 

John Wayne Gacy dressed up like a clown…when he wasn’t torturing and murdering young men and boys.

Upstairs: John Wayne Gacy’s Disturbing Legacy

Climbing the stairs to the section dedicated to John Wayne Gacy, the infamous “Killer Clown,” felt like stepping into an even darker realm of horror. In this room, our guide, her tuna fish can earrings jangling as she spoke, recounted the grim tale of Gacy. He was a seemingly ordinary married man from suburban Norwood, Illinois, who, during the 1970s, tortured, sexually assaulted and murdered (not necessarily in that order) 33 boys and young men. Gacy's preferred method of killing was strangulation, chillingly referred to as his "rope trick." 

One wall of the museum is dedicated to the faces of Gacy’s known victims — a haunting tribute to the young men whose lives he stole. Seeing their photos lined up, it’s impossible not to picture the unimaginable horrors they endured.

Many of Gacy’s paintings were of the Seven Dwarves — a reflection of a childhood obsession

But what sets this room apart is the strange, surreal focus on Gacy’s art. Displayed prominently are his original paintings, including a series of the Seven Dwarves (Snow White is notably absent). Gacy’s clown paintings are equally unnerving, given his former role as a community entertainer in full clown getup.

A list of prices reveals that back in the 1990s, you could pick up a Gacy painting for a mere 100 bucks (or $270 nowadays). Today, their value has skyrocketed as collectors clamor for a piece of true crime infamy — a disquieting reminder of our society’s fascination with killers.

Keep an eye out for a documentary the Graveface gang is working on about Gacy. 

Wally put his best freak on to try out to be a permanent exhibit at the Graveface Museum.

A Must-See for Oddities Enthusiasts 

The Graveface Museum isn’t for the faint of heart — if you’re squeamish or prefer your history without a macabre twist, it’s best to give this one a pass. But for those intrigued by the intersection of the bizarre and the dark, it promises a one-of-a-kind experience.

From taxidermied curiosities and cult artifacts to the unsettling tales of Ed Gein and John Wayne Gacy, the Graveface Museum balances horror with history, never veering into exploitation, but refusing to shy away from the unsettling truths of human nature And let’s not forget about the free pinball!

Whether you walk away fascinated, haunted or simply grateful for the ordinary comforts of your own life, one thing is certain: The Graveface Museum will stick with you long after you’ve left its eerie halls. –Wally

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The Oddities Flea Market

Death masks and other delights!

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The Deets

When yoiu see Freemasons’ Hall, you’re close. Find the fittingly creepy Lower Factors Walk between Bay and River.

Location

The Graveface Museum is tucked away at 410 East Lower Factors Walk, a strange little in-between street near Savannah’s waterfront. It’s not quite street level and not quite below it, but rather a cobblestone thoroughfare sandwiched between River Street and Bay Street. 

If you’re driving, nearby parking can be tricky, so plan ahead or prepare to walk a bit.

Admission
Tickets cost $25 per person, which includes access to all exhibits and the free-play pinball arcade. 

Hours of Operation
Monday through Saturday: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Sunday: 12 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Hours may vary, so it’s always a good idea to check their website or call ahead before visiting.

Graveface Museum

410 East Lower Factors Walk
Savannah, Georgia 31401
USA

Discover Dubai’s Top Museums

Explore the best museums in Dubai, from ancient history at Al Fahidi Fort to cutting-edge innovation at the Museum of the Future. Learn about must-visit attractions for families, history buffs and selfie addicts.

Museum of the Future

Beneath Dubai’s veneer of glittering skyscrapers and luxury malls lies a deep cultural heritage, best experienced through its world-class museums. Whether you’re dreaming of time-traveling to the Iron Age, walking among the stars (or their waxy doppelgängers), or immersing yourself in candy-coated fantasy lands, Dubai’s museums offer something for everyone. One thing that’s certain: There’s no shortage of over-the-top attractions in Dubai.

From history buffs to art aficionados, these cultural gems promise more than knowledge — they deliver unforgettable adventures. And the city is a great place for families to visit. There are plenty of things to do with kids in Dubai.

Ready to uncover the past, embrace the present and peek into the future? Let’s dive into Dubai’s top museums that are guaranteed to enrich your trip (and, let’s face it, your social feed).

Hours and ticket prices could change. It’s always a good idea to check their website first. 

3D World Dubai Selfie Museum

📍 Warehouse 4, Street 26, Al Quoz Industrial Area 3, Dubai

Prepare to step into a realm where art and imagination collide. The 3D World Dubai Selfie Museum experience isn’t just a place to admire art; it’s a place to become it. With over 185 hand-painted trompe-l’oeil photo ops spread across nine fantastical zones, this 23,000-square-foot wonderland invites you to take pics that look like you’re getting tongued by a giant chameleon, walking a tightrope, battling Yoda or wandering Wonderland. These playful optical illusions will blow your mind, and the friendly staff are always on hand to help you nail the perfect shot.

Whether you’re flying solo or wrangling the whole family, this interactive playground promises unforgettable memories and enough Instagram gold to keep your followers entertained for weeks.

Opening hours: 

• Daily from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

• Last entry: 7 p.m.

Ticket prices: 

• Visitors 3 and older: AED 89

• Children 2 and under: Free

Al Shindagha Museum

📍 Al Shindagha Heritage District, Dubai

Step into the heart of Dubai’s history at the Al Shindagha Museum, a sprawling outdoor museum located along the picturesque Dubai Creek. This cultural gem takes you on a journey through the city’s transformation from a humble fishing village to a global metropolis. Wander through beautifully restored 19th century homes and themed pavilions that bring Emirati traditions to life. Highlights include the Perfume House, where you can craft your own scent, and the House of Poetry, which celebrates the art of Emirati storytelling.

Best months to visit: November through April, when cooler weather makes exploring the heritage district more enjoyable.

Opening hours: 

• Daily: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.

• Last entry: 7 p.m.

Ticket prices: 

• Adults (25 and above): AED 35

• Youth (5 to 24): AED 20

• Children 4 and under: Free

Arte Museum Dubai

📍 Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai

Step into the Arte Museum Dubai, where cutting-edge digital art transforms the beauty of nature into an immersive, multi-sensory experience. Spread across 30,000 square feet (2,800 square meters) and 14 immersive zones, this museum combines captivating visuals, soundscapes by composer Young-Gyu Jang, and even unique scents tailored to each exhibit. Highlights include breathtaking media art installations and a serene break at the Arte Tea Bar, where you can sip on exquisite drinks while marveling at the artistry around you.

Whether you’re an art connoisseur or just looking for an unforgettable adventure, the Arte Museum promises a feast for the senses.

Opening hours: 

• Monday to Thursday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

• Friday to Sunday: 10 a.m. to midnight

Ticket prices: 

• Visitors 5 and older: AED 129

• Children 4 and under: Free

Coffee Museum

📍 Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, Dubai

For coffee lovers and history buffs alike, the Coffee Museum offers a deep dive into the Arab world’s enduring love affair with coffee. Nestled in the charming Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood, this quaint museum explores the journey of coffee through time, from its discovery in Ethiopia to its integral role in Middle Eastern culture.

Learn about the legend of Kaldi, a goat herder who noticed his charges acting energizing after chomping on some berries, the transformation of coffee during the black gold era, and the fascinating rituals surrounding Arabic coffee. The museum’s two floors are packed with artifacts, brewing methods and stories that capture the essence of this beloved beverage.

Opening hours: 

• Saturday to Thursday: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

• Friday: Closed

Ticket prices:

• Free

Dubai Museum

📍 Al Fahidi Street, Bur Dubai, Dubai

Note: As of this writing, the museum is closed for renovations, set to reopen in 2025. 

It’s hard to imagine something this old standing in the heart of this glittering modern metropolis. Yet the Al Fahidi Fort, which houses the museum, is Dubai’s oldest surviving structure, built in 1787.

The Dubai Museum brings the city’s past to life with immersive dioramas, traditional Bedouin tents and a model dhow, a wooden sailing vessel, that offers a glimpse into maritime trade. Stroll through a vibrant souk, marvel at ancient artifacts like pottery and weapons, and soak in the architectural beauty of coral stone walls and watchtowers.

Don’t miss the serene central courtyard, where traditional summer houses made of palm fronds provide a perfect spot to pause and reflect on Dubai’s rich heritage.

With its life-sized exhibits and captivating stories, this museum offers a window into the vibrant history of the Emirati people.

Opening hours: 

• Daily from 8:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Ticket prices: 

• Visitors 15 and older: AED 3

• Children 14 and under: AED 1

Madame Tussauds Dubai

📍 Bluewaters Island, Dubai

Lights, camera, wax! At Madame Tussauds Dubai, you can rub elbows with lifelike figures of your favorite celebrities, from Hollywood legends and Bollywood icons to music megastars and sports heroes. Wander through seven themed zones, snapping selfies with stars like Justin Bieber, Taylor Swift, Harry Styles, Marilyn Monroe, and Lionel Messi as well as political figures like Queen Elizabeth II. Whether you’re walking the red carpet or posing with your role models, every room feels like a glamorous adventure.

Perfect for fans of all ages, this wax wonderland blends glitz, fun and a touch of star power to brighten your day.

Opening hours: 

• Sunday to Thursday: 12 p.m. to 8 p.m.

• Friday and Saturday: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Ticket prices: 

• AED 145 per person 

• Family tickets for two adults and two children: AED 424

Museum of Candy

📍 City Walk, Dubai

Step into a sugar-coated wonderland at the Museum of Candy, where your sweetest dreams come to life. With over 15 candy-themed zones like Sweetopia, Gummy Bear Pool and the Louvre of Lollies, this interactive experience is a feast for the eyes. Compete in cotton candy challenges, indulge in milkshakes, and collect enough candy memories to last a lifetime.

Perfect for kids and kids at heart, this colorful haven promises 60 to 90 minutes of whimsical fun and endless photo ops. Sweet!

Opening hours: 

• Monday to Thursday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

• Friday to Sunday: 10 a.m. to midnight

Ticket prices: 

• Visitors 12 and over: AED 109

• Children 11 and under: AED 89

• Children 2 and under: Free

Museum of Illusions Dubai

📍 Al Seef, Dubai Creek, Dubai

Prepare to have your mind blown at the Museum of Illusions, a world where nothing is quite as it seems. From the disorienting Vortex Tunnel, where gravity takes a holiday, to the mesmerizing Infinity Room, this museum offers interactive experiences that challenge your perception. Strike quirky poses in the Tilted Room, or take unforgettable group shots in the Ames Room, where sizes shift based on your position.

With exhibits designed to entertain, amuse and make you question reality, the Museum of Illusions is a must-visit for all ages.

Opening hours:

• Sunday to Wednesday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.

• Thursday to Saturday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Ticket prices:

• Adults (16 to 59): AED 80

• Children (5 to 15): AED 60

• Children 4 and under: Free

• Seniors (60 and over): AED 70

• Students: AED 70

• Family Package (2 adults and 2 children): AED 225

• Family & Friends Package (5 tickets for adults or children): AED 320

Museum of the Future

📍 Sheikh Zayed Road, Trade Centre 2, Dubai

Get ready to step into the year 2071 at the Dubai Museum of the Future, an architectural marvel and a playground for innovation. This iconic steel and glass structure, adorned with Arabic calligraphy, offers a glimpse into the future of humanity. Explore exhibits on cutting-edge advancements in biodiversity, renewable energy, space exploration and more. Each floor immerses you in a visionary world where artificial intelligence and augmented reality redefine what’s possible.

Don’t miss the interactive displays that spark curiosity and challenge you to imagine a better tomorrow. The Museum of the Future is an invitation to dream big.

Best months to visit: April, May, September and October, for fewer crowds and a more immersive experience.

Opening hours: 

• Daily: 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

• Last entry: 7:30 p.m.

Ticket prices: 

• Visitors 4 and older: AED 149

• Children 3 and under: Free

Saruq Al-Hadid Archaeological Museum

📍 Shindagha Heritage District, Dubai

Journey back to the Iron Age at the Saruq Al-Hadid Archaeological Museum, where over 12,000 artifacts paint a vivid picture of Dubai’s ancient history. Housed in a beautifully restored building that once belonged to Sheikh Juma bin Maktoum, this museum reveals the secrets of a trading and metallurgy hub from centuries ago. Explore intricate jewelry, tools, ceramics and even the golden ring that inspired the Dubai Expo 2020 logo.

With interactive displays and engaging audiovisuals, this museum is a treasure trove for history lovers and curious minds alike.

Opening hours: 

• Sunday to Wednesday: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m.

• Thursday and Saturday: 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Ticket prices: 

• Visitors 13 to 59: AED 20

• Children 7 to 12: AED 10

• Children 6 and under: Free

• Seniors 60 and over: Free

Dubai Museums: Where History and Imagination Meet

Dubai’s museums are vibrant gateways into the city’s rich past, dazzling present and visionary future. Whether you’re wandering the candy-coated realms of the Museum of Candy, marveling at Iron Age treasures in Saruq Al Hadid, or stepping into tomorrow at the Museum of the Future, there are plenty of fun things to do in Dubai, each offering an experience as diverse as the city itself.

From art enthusiasts and history buffs to families seeking fun, there’s a museum to ignite every traveler’s imagination. So why settle for the ordinary? Add a dash of wonder to your Dubai itinerary and let these incredible museums turn your trip into an unforgettable story — and provide the most epic selfies ever. –Meenakshi Nair

The Architectural Evolution of the Louvre: From Fortress to Museum

Explore the Louvre’s journey from a medieval castle to a world-renowned museum, uncovering its rich history, design changes and cultural legacy.

The Louvre, known for its iconic art collection, houses more than just masterpieces within its walls — it holds centuries of a stormy history and transformation. 

Originally a medieval fortress, the Louvre has been reshaped over the ages into one of the largest and most renowned museums in the world. This journey through its architecture not only reflects changing styles but also France’s tumultuous past. Let’s step through time and experience the evolving grandeur of the Louvre.

Where Did the Louvre Get Its Name?

First things first: Ever wondered why one of the world’s most famous museums is called the Louvre? You’re not alone, and, like many things in history, the truth is a bit murky. There are a couple of theories, though, both equally intriguing.

The first — and perhaps the most vivid — traces the name back to the Old French word lupara, meaning wolf. Legend has it that the Louvre might have started as a hunting lodge, a place where wolves once roamed, or perhaps a refuge for those hunting them. Imagine early Parisians chasing down these wild creatures in the shadows of what would one day house the Mona Lisa.

The second theory takes us in a different direction, connecting the name to the Frankish word leovar or leower, meaning a fortified place or watchtower. And this one holds some weight, considering the Louvre began its life in the late 12th century as a defensive fortress. 

The Louvre’s Early Years: A Fortress for Kings

The year: 1190. Paris is a thriving but vulnerable medieval city. King Philip II, wary of invasion, commands the construction of a fortress to shield the city from foreign threats. 

The structure — thick stone walls, a deep moat — was built to intimidate and protect. The cold, imposing silhouette of the Louvre Castle stood firm, safeguarding the kingdom’s treasures and its people. 

Yet, as the centuries passed, Paris evolved, and so did the fortress. By the 14th century, under the reign of Charles V, the once purely defensive stronghold began its metamorphosis into a royal palace, draped in the elegance of Gothic architecture, with soaring arches and intricate stonework. The rigid fortress had turned into a symbol of royal power and opulence, reflecting the splendor of the era.

Renaissance Transformations of the Louvre

The Renaissance breathed new life into the Louvre, reshaping it from a fortress-turned-palace into a majestic royal residence. 

In the 16th century, Francis I, a king passionate about art and architecture, envisioned a Louvre that would rival the finest palaces of Europe. He summoned renowned architects like Pierre Lescot to reimagine the building. Stone masons carved delicate sculptures, artisans crafted grand façades, and courtyards took shape — where once there had been utilitarian walls. 

The Cour Carrée, a resplendent square courtyard, emerged as a harmonious blend of Renaissance ideals. Classical columns and elegant pediments framed the space, signaling the Louvre’s new status. No longer a fortress of war, the Louvre was becoming a beacon of French culture, preparing to house not just royals, but the world’s greatest artistic treasures.

The Louvre as Museum

Fast forward to the throes of the French Revolution. The palace, once reserved for royalty, was swept into the tide of change. 

Interestingly, the Louvre itself wasn’t invaded or looted in the chaotic way that some other royal properties were during the Revolution. While many royal residences, like the Palace of Versailles, faced mobs and plundering, the Louvre largely escaped such direct violence.

Instead of looting, there was a process of “nationalization.” Artworks that had belonged to the monarchy, the Church and émigrés (those who fled the country) were legally confiscated and transferred to the Louvre. Revolutionary authorities essentially took over the management of the collections, treating them as public property rather than private royal possessions.

In 1793, the Louvre opened its doors to the public as a museum, a gesture that symbolized the democratization of art and culture. Citizens, for the first time, stood in front of masterpieces previously reserved for the most elite. 

Over the years, its halls would expand, as art from all over Europe poured in. 

By the 19th century, the Louvre was undergoing a new transformation — architects like Hector Lefuel extended and renovated its galleries, crafting the museum we recognize today. 

And then came the most daring addition of all: a modern wonder amid centuries of history.

The Glass Pyramid: A Modern Icon

In 1989, I.M. Pei unveiled his controversial masterpiece: the glass pyramid. 

At first, the contrast was startling. How could this sharp, transparent structure belong in a space so rich with centuries of stone? 

Yet over time, the pyramid became a beloved symbol of the Louvre’s embrace of both past and future. Its sleek lines rise from the courtyard like a beacon, inviting visitors into the heart of the museum. The sunlight streams through its glass panels, casting an ethereal glow across the underground lobby, an unexpected harmony of ancient and modern.

Experiencing the Louvre Today

Today, the Louvre could be considered a pilgrimage site for art lovers from around the globe. Housing over 38,000 works, including the enigmatic Mona Lisa and the timeless Venus de Milo, the Louvre offers not just a glimpse into the history of art but also a walk through the very evolution of Paris and France itself. 

As you wander its grand galleries, each wing tells a different story — of kings, of revolutions, of artistic triumphs. The very stones of the Louvre whisper of the centuries they’ve witnessed.

For modern visitors, the experience begins long before entering its halls. With millions flocking to its doors, securing tickets to the Louvre in advance is essential to making the most of your time. Booking your Louvre tickets online ensures not only your entry but also your chance to explore this monumental blend of history and art at your own pace.

Standing beneath the glass pyramid, surrounded by the architectural echoes of past centuries, you’re stepping into a story that spans from medieval fortifications to modern masterpieces. And when you visit, you’ll become part of the Louvre’s ongoing story. –John Cunningham

 

Beyond Paris: Travel to Lesser-Known France

The most underrated places in France: Nantes, Amiens and Rennes — where mechanical elephants, floating gardens and medieval wonders await your next adventure.

Porte Saint-Pierre in Nantes

Sure, Paris is the City of Love, the place where couples smooch along the Seine. But if you think France is just pain au chocolat, promenades and Paris, you’re just scratching the surface. Once you’ve marveled at the must-sees and taken more Eiffel selfies than your Instagram can handle, it’s time to move beyond Paris into the France that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks.

We’re not saying you should skip Paris — there are just some hidden gems you should also check out.

First Up: Gay Paree

Of course, any trip to France is worth a stop-off in Paris. The first rule? Don’t be in a rush. Paris is a city meant to be savored — one street, one café, one perfect pastry at a time. 

Begin your journey on foot, meandering through boulevards filled with the smell of fresh bread, the buzz of busy terraces and architecture that just might be older than your country. 

Once you’re ready to kick things up a notch, switch over to the Métro or tram — the real Parisian way to get around. Sure, you could opt for taxis or ride-shares, but you’d be missing the electric hum of everyday life on the city’s veins.

Of course, you’ll want to plan ahead. If you want to visit the Louvre, don’t even think about showing up without pre-booked tickets. Skip the epic queues and head straight into the thick of it. 

Or, if you’re craving a bit more underworld mystique, take the plunge into the Catacombs of Paris — a dark, fascinating corner of the city. 

And for the romantics, the Eiffel Tower may be free to admire from below, but if you want to climb up, save yourself time (and foot cramps) by booking your tickets in advance.

Jardin des Tuileries

Picnics, Cruises and Prepping for the Great Escape

Before you say your final “au revoir” to Paris, it’s time to embrace the most Parisian of pastimes: picnicking in a garden. Pack up a basket with a crusty baguette, some fancy cheese, and a bottle of rosé — this is France, after all. Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin des Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens are the perfect spots to recharge. 

But Paris is just the beginning. Once you’ve ticked off the iconic sights, why not step into the real adventure — those lesser-known spots where the crowds thin and the charm thickens. Take a road trip or hop on a train, and dive into the countryside, where France has some seriously under-the-radar gems waiting for you.

Here’s your guide to three fascinating cities that will make your trip to France unforgettable.

Nantes: The City of Innovation and Imagination

If there’s a city where imagination runs wild, it’s Nantes. Perched along the Loire River, this historic gem was once the bustling capital of Brittany and a powerhouse of trade and commerce. Fast forward to today, and Nantes has reinvented itself as a vibrant playground for artists, engineers and visionaries — where creativity isn’t just encouraged, it’s celebrated at every turn.

Must-See Attractions in Nantes

Les Machines de l’Île: A fantastical world inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci, this is one of Nantes’ most famous attractions. Here, you’ll find mechanical animals, including the iconic 40-foot-tall elephant that you can ride as it lumbers through the streets.

Château des Ducs de Bretagne: This 13th century castle is a key part of Nantes’ history. Once the seat of the dukes of Brittany, it now houses a museum that tells the story of the city’s past, including its shameful role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Les Anneaux (The Rings) on l’Île de Nantes

Île de Nantes: The island at the heart of the city is a blend of modern art installations, restaurants and waterfront paths. You’ll find sculptures that pop up in unexpected places, and the island is a symbol of Nantes’ artistic resurgence.

Amiens: France’s Hidden Medieval Treasure

Perhaps Amiens hasn’t made your radar yet — but trust me, it’s one of France’s best-kept secrets, far from the touristy throngs most people associate with a trip to France. Nestled in the Haut-de-France region in the north, Amiens is divided by the River Somme and boasts a blend of charm, history and, yes, some seriously Instagrammable spots. If you’re hunting for a place to grab some mouthwatering French cuisine or buy a perfectly aged bottle of wine, the shops and cafés along Quartier St.-Leu’s narrow, cobbled streets are practically begging you to stop by.

Now, here’s the kicker: Amiens is ridiculously budget-friendly. Sure, France has a rep for being on the pricey side, especially if you’re staying where all the iconic sites are. But in Amiens? You can snag top-tier hotels without emptying your wallet. So while you might be pinching pennies in hostels across Paris or Marseilles, Amiens is where you treat yourself to a touch of luxury. Balance, my friends. Amiens is the city that gets it.

Must-See Attractions in Amiens

Amiens Cathedral: This Gothic masterpiece is one of the largest churches in the world and boasts intricate carvings and towering spires. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s known for its exceptional beauty. The cathedral’s façade was originally painted in vibrant colors. Over time, the paint wore away, leaving the stone we see today. During the summer, a light show recreates these original rainbow hues.

Les Hortillonnages: These floating gardens are situated on a network of canals and have been cultivated since the Middle Ages. You can explore them by boat, winding through the greenery and flower-filled gardens that seem worlds away from the city streets.

Maison de Jules Verne: While Verne was born in Nantes, he spent much of his life in Amiens, where he wrote some of his famous novels. His former home is now a museum that gives visitors a glimpse into his world and imagination.

Rennes: Medieval Meets Modern

In the final stop on our tour of underrated French gems, the road less traveled takes us to Rennes, the capital of Brittany, where history and modernity collide in the best way possible. What sets Rennes apart? Picture medieval half-timbered houses lining the streets, right alongside the imposing grandeur of the cathedral. It’s like stepping into a time machine — but with better coffee.

Must-See Attractions in Rennes

Parlement de Bretagne: Once the seat of the Brittany parliament, this grand building is a must-see for history buffs. It survived a major fire in the 1990s and was carefully restored. Guided tours give visitors a glimpse into the past and the intricate artwork inside.

Thabor Gardens: One of France’s most beautiful public parks, the Thabor Gardens span 25 acres (10 hectares) and include a French garden, English garden, rose garden and aviary. It’s the perfect spot for a quiet escape after a day of sightseeing.

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Art lovers will feel right at home in this museum, which boasts works from European masters like Rubens, Botticelli and Picasso. The museum’s collection covers everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern art.

The Rennes Opera House

France off the Beaten Path

France is so much more than Paris. By stepping off the beaten path and exploring places like Nantes, Amiens and Rennes, you’ll not only escape the tourist crowds but will also discover the true heart of the country. It’s in the untapped corners, the quiet lanes and the lesser-known wonders. As they say: Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. –Sadie Smith

Centre Pompidou Málaga: A Modern Art Marvel

El Cubo, as locals call it, a museum located in Málaga’s vibrant port, is anything but boring. This dazzling structure, designed by Daniel Buren, houses a captivating collection of avant-garde art.

The surprising multicolored cube on Málaga’s port is a branch of the Centre Pompidou, Paris’ modern art museum.

When I was in high school, my French class took a trip to Paris, and it was there that I first laid eyes on the Centre Pompidou. The building’s exterior, with its industrial ductwork winding up like a scarlet-bellied serpent, and a pair of cherry red lips spouting water in the fountain, captivated my youthful imagination. 

But if you thought the Centre Pompidou was just that quirky building in Paris, think again. The avant-garde behemoth has spawned a sibling in Málaga, Spain; the city famous for its hometown homeboy, Picasso, and amazing Moorish landmarks like the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro, got a bit of Parisian modern art chic.

“The project was initially conceived as a limited five-year venture.

It has proven so successful, Málaga has decided, with Paris’ agreement, to extend its lease until 2034.”

Various sculptures are put on temporary display outside of the museum.

Why Málaga?

The project was initially conceived as a limited five-year venture between Málaga’s mayor, Francisco de la Torre, and the Centre Pompidou’s president, Serge Lasvignes. The French institution agreed to lend its brand name, curatorial expertise and artworks from its Paris HQ to the chic port city of Málaga in the South of Spain. This cultural experiment provided the perfect canvas for the Centre’s first foray outside France. It has proven so successful, Málaga has decided, with Paris’ agreement, to extend its lease until 2034.

Daniel Buren came up with the whimsical design.

The Colorful Genius and Bold Design of Daniel Buren

The Centre Pompidou Malaga isn’t just a museum — it’s a statement. You can’t miss it. Its design is as bold as its Parisian parent’s. But instead of resembling a building turned inside out, the Pompidou Málaga looks like a giant Rubik’s Cube made of glass was plopped down in the city’s port. It’s the brainchild of French artist Daniel Buren, renowned for his use of bold colors and geometric patterns.

Buren takes an in situ approach, which is a fancy way of saying he integrates his pieces directly into their environments, creating site-specific art that interacts with its surroundings. And that’s certainly the case with El Cubo (the Cube), as the Málaga Pompidou is affectionately called. A transparent, multicolored structure serves as the entrance to the subterranean museum space. Its design is a sharp contrast to the traditional Spanish architecture around it, making it a standout landmark. 

Buren’s use of color and light transforms the cube into a dynamic piece of art, changing its appearance with the movement of the sun and the seasons. It’s as much a work of art as those found within. Try walking by at different times (sunrise or night, in particular) to see how light plays upon the façade.

The museum opened in 2015 for a short stint — but it has obviously done well enough to extend its agreement through 2034.

The Pompidou Málaga’s Opening Act

When it first opened in 2015, the Centre Pompidou Málaga was met with a mix of excitement…and skepticism. Art critics and the public alike were curious about how this Parisian transplant would fit into the cultural tapestry of Málaga. But The Guardian gushed, “The Centre Pompidou in Málaga represents a bold cultural experiment, bridging the artistic ethos of Paris with the vibrant spirit of southern Spain.”

Meanwhile, El País highlighted the architectural contrast: “Daniel Buren’s colorful cube stands as a beacon of modernity against Málaga’s historic skyline, symbolizing the city’s commitment to contemporary art.”

Wally and Duke can find modern art to be hit or miss — but the Centre Pompidou Málaga was filled with cool, thought-provoking works.

Art and Exhibitions at the Pompidou Málaga

But the Centre Pompidou in Málaga isn’t just a pretty cube — it’s a treasure trove of modern masterpieces that would make any modern art lover swoon.

The permanent collection is a curated selection of works from the vast repository of the Centre Pompidou in Paris. It spans the 20th and 21st centuries, showcasing iconic pieces from celebrated artists such as Francis Bacon, Frida Kahlo, Joan Miró — and, por supuesto, Pablo Picasso. 

Lipstick by František Kupka, 1908

Bal au Moulin de la Galette by Raoul Dufy, circa 1943

Children and Lanterns by Tadé Makowski, 1929

These works are arranged thematically rather than chronologically, providing visitors with a fresh perspective on modern art movements and their interconnectedness. The themes often explore major artistic movements and their cultural contexts. You might find rooms dedicated to Cubism, Surrealism or Abstract Expressionism. This approach not only highlights the evolution of styles but also the ongoing dialogue between artists across different periods and geographies.

Hollywood Sleep by Jean Cocteau, 1953

Suddenly Last Summer by Martial Raysse, 1936

During our visit, we caught the temporary exhibition Un Tiempo Propio (or Time for Yourself for those of you who don’t speak Spanish), a spirited rebuke of the relentless demands imposed by our digital calendars. Showcasing the works of 90 artists, the exhibit delved into the theme of leisure, encouraging a pause from the daily grind. It served as a refreshing reminder to reclaim our time and disconnect, if only momentarily, from the buzz of notifications and schedules — a true celebration of the art of relaxation and the simple joys of free time.

We Stopped Just Here at the Time by Ernesto Neto, 2002

One of our favorite exhibits in Un Tiempo Proprio was by Ernesto Neto, the Brazilian maestro of the bizarre: We Stopped Just Here at the Time. This artwork was a captivating display of suspended bags filled with aromatic herbs like rosemary, parsley and thyme. The installation reminded me of a forest of hanging testicles (paging Doctor Freud!), creating a whimsical and immersive environment that invited visitors to bask in the earthy fragrances and stare, mesmerized, at the organic forms swaying gently.

Ettore Sottsass’ Flying Carpet Armchair

Sottsass’ designs are somehow retro and modern at the same time, like this minimal mint green cabinet.

We also enjoyed the Ettore Sottsass: Magical Thinking exhibition, which showcased over 100 pieces of Sottsass’ groundbreaking work. These retro-futuristic items in bright colors reminded me of Fisher-Price children’s toys, highlighting the designer’s playful approach. Sottsass was a key figure in the Memphis movement of the 1980s, which revolutionized design with its bold use of color, geometric shapes and whimsical patterns. The postmodern movement rejected minimalism in favor of a more expressive, emotionally engaging style. The exhibit captured this ethos, blending fun and sophistication in a way that made each piece feel both nostalgic and cutting-edge​. 

The Basilico Teapot

Cherry Model Teapot

it wouldn’t be a modern art museum without a creepy clown.

Discovering the Unexpected at the Pompidou Málaga

Duke and I were thoroughly impressed with the Centre Pompidou Málaga, where we encountered a captivating variety of art that was both thought-provoking and immersive. We spent a delightful couple of hours there, exploring the museum’s strange and intriguing pieces, each offering a unique perspective on modern art. The experience exceeded our expectations and was a refreshing contrast to what we consider the less inspiring exhibitions that the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago has featured in recent years. 

The variety of exhibits at the Centre Pompidou Málaga ensures that whether you’re a seasoned art critic or a curious traveler, there’s something that will capture your imagination and perhaps even challenge your understanding of what art can be. So, the next time you find yourself in Málaga, make sure to descend into El Cubo — you just might discover your new favorite artist or a whole new way of looking at the world. –Wally

There are lots of different areas to explore at the Centre Pompidou Málaga, but they can all be done in a couple of hours.

The lowdown

The Centre Pompidou in Malaga is located in the city’s vibrant port area, making it easily accessible. 

Hours of operation

Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Saturday and Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Tuesday: Closed (except on public holidays)

Holidays: Open with extended hours; always check the official website for up-to-date holiday hours.

Admission costs

General admission: €9

Reduced admission: €5.50 (available for seniors over 65, students under 26 and large families)

Free admission: For children under 18, unemployed individuals and visitors with disabilities (with one companion)

Special free hours: On Sundays from 4 p.m. to closing, and all day on certain designated dates (such as International Museum Day)

Exit through the gift shop.

Tips for visitors

Advance tickets: It’s a good idea to purchase tickets online in advance to avoid long lines, especially on weekends and holidays.

Guided tours: Consider booking a guided tour to get the most out of your visit. Tours are available in multiple languages and offer deeper insights into the exhibitions.

Accessibility: The Centre Pompidou is fully accessible to visitors with disabilities. Elevators and ramps are available, and wheelchairs can be borrowed at the information desk.

Photography: Photography without flash is allowed in most areas.

Coat/bag check: Leave your bags and coats to make it easier to enjoy the exhibits unburdened.

Gift shop: Exit through the gift shop, where you can pick up some cool souvenirs or gifts.

Centre Pompidou Málaga

Pasaje Doctor Carrillo Casaux
Muelle Uno
Puerto de Málaga
29001 Málaga
Spain

 

The Most Famous Sports Memorabilia — and the Stories Behind Them

From a bitten-off ear to Air Jordans, these sports artifacts have become the stuff of legends, marking record-breaking achievements, infamous incidents and pivotal games by Michael Jordan, Pelé, Babe Ruth and more.

Pelé, Michael Jordan and Babe Ruth are all connected with some of the world’s most famous (and sometimes strange) sports memorabilia.

Sports memorabilia offer a unique glimpse into the history of athletics, capturing moments of triumph, controversy and sheer oddity. From iconic game-worn gear to objects shrouded in superstition, these items tell the stories of the athletes and events that have left an indelible mark on sports history. 

Evander Holyfield’s Ear, Bitten Off by Mike Tyson

In one of the most shocking moments in boxing history, Mike Tyson went full-on Hannibal Lecter and bit off a piece of Evander Holyfield’s ear during their 1997 bout. After the chomp heard ’round the ring, the piece of ear was retrieved from the canvas and sent to the hospital with Holyfield — but doctors were unable to reattach it. This body part has become an infamous piece of sports memorabilia, symbolizing one of the sport’s most controversial incidents. Tyson was disqualified from the fight, and the resulting shock shook the boxing community to its core.

Barry Bonds’ Controversial Asterisk Ball 

When Barry Bonds hit his 756th home run, surpassing Hank Aaron’s long-standing record, controversy wasn’t far behind. The ball, marked with an asterisk, represents the widespread debate over Bonds’ alleged use of performance-enhancing drugs. Still, the famous ball was purchased for $752,467 and later donated to the National Baseball Hall of Fame in Cooperstown, New York. The asterisk on the ball serves as a reminder of the era’s contentious legacy and the ongoing debate about Bonds’ place in baseball history.

Diego Maradona’s “Hand of God” Ball and Jersey 

Diego Maradona’s “Hand of God” goal during the 1986 World Cup quarterfinals against England is one of soccer’s most legendary (and infamous) moments. Using his hand to punch the ball into the net, Maradona’s cheeky maneuver went unnoticed by the referees, leading to a goal that left England fuming and Argentina cheering. The ball and the jersey worn by Maradona during that match have become iconic artifacts. The jersey sold for $9.3 million at auction in 2022, while the ball fetched nearly $2.4 million the same year.

Paul “Bear” Bryant’s Houndstooth Hat 

Paul “Bear” Bryant, one of the most successful college football coaches, is often remembered for his signature houndstooth hat. This hat has come to symbolize Bryant’s legacy at the University of Alabama, where he won six national championships. The hat remains a cherished piece of memorabilia, representing Bryant’s enduring influence on college football. Where to see it? It’s on display at the Paul W. Bryant Museum at Bama in Tuscaloosa, Alabama.

Kirk Gibson’s Pine Tar Bat 

The L.A. Dodgers’ Kirk Gibson was called to pinch-hit in the bottom of the ninth with two outs during the 1988 World Series against the Oakland Athletics. Gibson, hobbling on injured legs — a strained left hamstring and a swollen right knee — hit a dramatic game-winning homer using a bat coated with pine tar for a better grip. The bat sold at an auction for $575,912 and is now a treasured piece of memorabilia symbolizing Gibson’s grit and determination in one of baseball’s most memorable moments​.

The “Curse of the Bambino” Piano 

Legend has it that in 1919, the Boston Red Sox made a fateful decision that would haunt them for nearly a century. They sold Babe Ruth, one of baseball’s greatest players, to the New York Yankees. This transaction not only shifted the balance of power in baseball but also gave rise to the infamous “Curse of the Bambino.” 

The curse began to weave itself into the very fabric of the Red Sox’s identity, as the team went without a World Series title for 86 long years. Superstition and folklore became intertwined with this narrative, with one of the strangest tales involving a piano. It’s rumored that Babe Ruth, in a fit of frustration, threw a piano into a pond on his Sudbury, Massachusetts farm. Despite various searches and efforts to locate it, the piano has never been found — but it has become a symbol that marks the beginning of the Red Sox’s misfortunes.

As fans look back on these monumental moments, many find that Massachusetts sports betting offers a new way to experience the games. It allows them to predict and partake in potential new chapters of success, much like spectators of the past who witnessed the curse’s end, when the Red Sox won the 2004 World Series.

Brazil’s Cursed Jersey of the 1950 World Cup

In one of the greatest upsets in World Cup history, Uruguay defeated Brazil in the 1950 final, an event forever etched in memory as the Maracanazo. Brazil, the overwhelming favorite, was left stunned by Uruguay’s shocking victory. The jersey worn by team Brazilian captain Augusto da Costa during this match is believed to be cursed, embodying the sorrow and anguish of an entire nation, a relic of a day when dreams were shattered at the Maracanã Stadium. The jersey can be found at the Museu do Futebol (Soccer/Football Museum) in São Paulo.

Michael Jordan’s Flu Game Shoes 

During Game 5 of the 1997 NBA Finals, Michael Jordan played through severe flu-like symptoms to lead the Chicago Bulls to victory. The sneakers Jordan wore during this “Flu Game” (black and red size 13 Nike Air Jordan XIIs) are one of the most iconic pieces of sports memorabilia, sold at auction for $104,765. These shoes represent Jordan’s unparalleled willpower and legendary status in basketball history.

Pele’s 1,000th Goal Ball 

On the evening of November 19, 1969, the legendary Pelé, one of soccer’s greatest players, stood poised on the brink of history. The Maracanã Stadium in Rio de Janeiro buzzed with anticipation as Pelé’s team, Santos, faced off against Vasco da Gama. 

In the 34th minute, Pelé seized his chance. A perfectly placed pass found its way to his feet. With the grace and precision that defined his career, he danced past defenders and drove the ball into the net, scoring his 1,000th goal. The stadium erupted in celebration, a wave of euphoria washing over the crowd as Pelé, overwhelmed with emotion, lifted his arms in triumph.

The ball used in this historic moment isn’t just a piece of leather but a cherished artifact, celebrating Pelé’s incredible career and his indelible impact on the sport. It’s preserved at the Museu do Futebol (Museum of Football) in São Paulo, serving as a testament to the magic of that night and a beacon of Pelé’s legacy in the world of soccer.

Tony Hawk’s First Skateboard 

On a summer evening in 1999, at the X Games in San Francisco, Tony Hawk etched his name into the annals of sports history: After nearly a dozen failed attempts, Hawk nailed the elusive 900, a trick that involves completing two and a half mid-air revolutions on a skateboard. He was the first skateboarder in history to do so in competition. 

Hawk’s first skateboard, a Bahne model given to him by his brother Steve in 1977, holds a special place in the Smithsonian National Museum of American History’s collection. This board, which Hawk learned to ride as a child, symbolizes his early beginnings and significant contributions to skateboarding. Before donating it, Hawk took one final ride on the board during the Innoskate festival, celebrating his innovative spirit and impact on the sport​ 

These pieces of sports memorabilia are more than just objects; they’re tangible connections to some of the most memorable and peculiar moments in sports history. Each item holds a story, encapsulating the passion, controversy and unforgettable events that continue to captivate fans around the world. –Eduardo Solano

The Hidden Gems of Barcelona

Take a tour of the off-the-beaten path attractions in El Raval, the Gothic Quarter, Poble-sec, Gràcia and Montjuïc. 

Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is renowned for its vibrant culture, art and architecture. But beyond the fantastical and incomplete basilica of La Sagrada Familia and historic Modernisme landmarks designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, like Parc Güell, lie an abundance of less-familiar spots waiting to be discovered.

Barcelona’s Hidden Treasures 

While Barcelona’s main attractions are undoubtedly worth visiting, the city’s true identity lies in its non-touristy spots. From ancient Roman ruins to quaint local markets, a hidden gems private tour offers a glimpse into the authentic Barcelona that locals cherish.

Like in many of the best cities, Barcelona’s charm lies in its neighborhoods. Here are some of the best ones — and the lesser-known locales nestled within them.

El Raval: The Bohemian Quarter 

Sandwiched between the streets of Paralelo and Las Ramblas, El Raval is one of the most densely populated and multicultural areas of the city. Once known for its rough edges, the neighborhood has since transformed into a cultural hotspot teeming with art galleries, trendy bars and eclectic boutiques. It’s a place where old meets new, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for those willing to explore.

CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

One of the sites worth visiting in El Raval is the CCCB, a complex dedicated to exploring contemporary culture through exhibitions, debates and festivals. Housed in a former almshouse, the building is a blend of historic and modern architecture. It’s an excellent starting point for those interested in the city’s vibrant cultural scene.

Calle Montalegre, 5 
Ciutat Vella, 08001

The Gothic Quarter: A Journey Through Time 

While not exactly under the radar, the winding alleys of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) hold plenty of surprises. Begin your exploration at the landmark La Seu, also known as the Barcelona Cathedral. Wander through the narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets where layers of history, architecture and secluded squares dating back to the 15th century await discovery. 

Keep an eye out for a set of streetlights commissioned by the city council and designed in 1878 by Gaudí, one of only two works he created for the administration shortly after graduating as an architect from la Escola Tècnica Superior d’Arquitectura de Barcelona. 

Plaça dels Traginers

Stop in the early afternoon for a glass of vermouth in this plaza, where locals like to leisurely meet next to the ruins of an ancient Roman fortress. 

Plaça del Reí 

Kings Square is a tranquil square surrounded by Gothic buildings, including the Palau Reial Major, the medieval residence of Catalan counts and kings. The square’s understated elegance makes it a perfect spot to soak in the history and ambiance of old Barcelona. It’s thought that King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella greeted Christopher Columbus from the steps fanning out from the corner of the square after he arrived home from his first voyage to the so-called New World. 

Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Located in the former Palau Mornau, this niche museum covers the history of pot and hemp. Its permanent collection features around 8,000 objects related to cannabis cultivation and use throughout history, including medicine bottles, apothecary kits, paintings, pipes and film posters. Exhibits cover the recreational and medicinal uses, industrial applications, legislative history and horticultural aspects of cannabis cultivation.

Carrer Ample, 35
Ciutat Vella, 08002

Poble-sec: A Taste of Local Life 

Abutting Montjuïc hill is Poble-sec, which translates to “Dry Village” in Catalan because it lacked water until the late 19th century. This hood, with its signature sloping streets, combines a modern, lively vibe with Old World charm. It’s a great place to experience the everyday life of Barcelonians.

Carrer de Blai

If you’re looking for Barcelona highlights, head to Carrer de Blai, a street famous for its many budget-friendly pintxos bars. Pronounced “peen-choz,” the name comes from the Spanish verb pinchar, meaning to poke or stab. Sampling these small, skewered bite-sized snacks by hopping from bar to bar is a popular local tradition, usually enjoyed while waiting for dinner, which typically doesn’t begin until around 9 p.m. at the earliest.

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car

For breathtaking views of the city, take the Montjuïc cable car. The journey offers panoramic vistas of Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding hills. At the top, you’ll find Castell de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Castle), a historic fortress with an intriguing past.

Gràcia: The Village Within the City

Gràcia was once a separate village before being annexed by Barcelona in the late 19th century. Despite its integration into the city, Gràcia has retained its distinct, bohemian character. Its bustling plazas and narrow streets are full of life, especially during the Festa Major de Gràcia, a vibrant local festival held every August.

Plaça del Sol

This lively square is the beating heart of Gràcia. Locals gather here to relax, socialize and enjoy a caña (a small glass of beer). Surrounding the square are numerous bars and cafés, making it an ideal spot to experience the neighborhood’s convivial spirit.

Plaça del Sol, 23
Gràcia, 08012

Parks and Recreation 

In a bustling metropolis like Barcelona, finding tranquil green spaces can be a delightful surprise. The city has several parks and gardens that offer a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle, many of which remain relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera

Perched on the port-facing slopes of Montjuïc mountain, the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera offer a spectacular view of the city’s coastline and port. With over 800 desert and subtropical species of succulents and cacti, the garden makes for a striking backdrop and is the perfect spot for reflection and relaxation.

Carretera de Miramar, 38
Sants-Montjuïc 08038

Parc del Laberint d’Horta

Parc del Laberint d’Horta, Barcelona’s oldest historical garden, is a delightful surprise in the city’s Horta-Guinardó district. Situated on the former estate of the Desvalls family, it features an 18th century Neoclassical garden, a 19th century Romantic garden, pavilions with statues from Greek mythology and a cypress hedge maze, which explains the “Laberint” (Labyrinth) in its name.

Passeig dels Castanyers, 1
Horta-Guinardó 08035

Sant Miquel del Fai

If you’re planning to spend several days in Barcelona and are looking to explore something farther afield, Sant Miquel del Fai is about 45 minutes away. Built into the face of the Bertí cliffs, this ancient monastery offers stunning views of the Catalan countryside. Visitors can explore the main church, the chapel of Sant Martí and various other structures within the complex, including the Cova de Sant Miquel caves, which feature impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

BV-1485
Kilómetro 7
08416 Riells del fai
Barcelona

Gaudí’s Great, But…

Whether you’re wandering through the bohemian streets of El Raval or savoring the culinary delights of a hidden tapas bar, these lesser-known Barcelona highlights reveal a side of the city often overshadowed by its more famous landmarks. Your Spanish adventure awaits! –Natalie Howard

Museo de Málaga: Art, Archaeology and Awe

Explore the Malaga Museum, a tribute to the past that feels completely current in the Palacio de la Aduana. 

The Malaga Museum has an impressive fine art collection, including Gladiadores/La Meta Sudante (Gladiators/The Meta Sudans) by José Moreno Carbanero from 1882.

Málaga, one of the world’s oldest cities, isn’t short on sunlight, history or art. With its dizzying array of attractions, the city offers much to explore. The Centro Histórico, a pedestrian-friendly area, is home to many notable sites, including the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions), the Renaissance-style Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Málaga Cathedral) and modern art institutions like the Centre Pompidou Málaga. Nearby, the Alcazaba fortress stands guard on the hillside above a Roman amphitheater, connected to the Gibralfaro Castle by a fortified walkway.

The building that houses the museum is called the Palacio de la Aduana and was the customs house for the busy port.

History of the Museum of Málaga

A standout among these cultural treasures is the Museo de Málaga (Museum of Málaga). Housed in the Palacio de la Aduana (Customs House), this magnificent 17th century Neoclassical landmark is nestled between the verdant Parque de Málaga and the Ayuntamiento de Málaga (Málaga City Hall) in the heart of the Old Quarter.

Its construction was initiated in 1787 under King Charles III in response to Málaga’s growing maritime trade, and was conceived by architect Manuel Martín Rodríguez, who drew inspiration from Madrid’s palatial Real Casa de la Aduana (Royal Customs House). 

“With over 2,000 works of art and more than 15,000 artifacts in its archaeology collection, the museum offers a vast and captivating chronicle of Málaga’s history.”

Although the project actually started in 1791, it encountered several delays, including Napoleon’s failed attempt to conquer Spain during the Peninsular War, which pushed its completion date to 1829.

Nearly two centuries after its construction, the renovated venue reopened to the public, preserving the building’s original character while updating its interior to meet 21st century standards for accessibility. 

The museum unites the collections of the Real Academia de San Telmo (Saint Elmo Academy of Fine Arts) and the Museo Arqueológico de Málaga (Málaga Archaeological Museum) under one roof. With over 2,000 works of art and more than 15,000 artifacts in its archaeology collection, the museum offers a vast and captivating chronicle of Málaga’s history.

A mix of unmarked artifacts, including green glazed pottery and religious statuary, is displayed on wooden shelves inside the Visitable Warehouse section of the Museum of Málaga.

Ground Floor Visitable Warehouse

After paying the admission fee of €1.50 (approximately $1.63) per person, Wally and I began our visit on the ground floor with the Almacén Visitable (Visitable Warehouse), a storeroom of sorts, where objects are organized by time period and displayed in drawers and on shelves and wooden platforms. (It reminded us a bit of the ramshackle Egyptian Museum in Cairo.)

A collection of Hellenistic pottery, including terracotta heads, pig figurines and feet fills one of the display cabinets.

Among the artifacts were ancient vases, pots and fragments of centuries-old marble column capitals, feet, torsos and heads, displayed alongside 19th century oil paintings culled from the Fine Arts collection.

The warehouse is fun to explore, with its jumble of marble architectural fragments, a pair of Christ figures missing their crosses and a cathedral bell.

Look for the scale models, including one of the Roman amphitheater and (we think) the interior of Málaga Cathedral.

Wally and I oohed and ahhed over a scale model of the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro. In another part of the room, a glass display case held several devotional sculptures, including religious images of the Virgin Mary, underscoring the reverence and care with which these objects are treated.

A view of the palatial courtyard of the Museum of Málaga. The classical terracotta busts were added in 1885 to commemorate Queen Isabella II’s son Alfonso XII.

Central Courtyard 

Following our tour of the storehouse, we wandered through the expansive central courtyard, graced with palm and orange trees, a fountain and informational panels recounting the building’s history, including Queen Isabella II’s visit in 1862. Terracotta busts, added to honor her son Alfonso XII’s visit 23 years later, have adorned the uppermost balustrade of the courtyard gallery ever since.

When we visited, there was a special exhibit on the hometown hero Picasso.

Special Exhibit on Picasso

The port city is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and, during our visit, it was hosting the exhibition La presencia de Picasso (The Presence of Picasso) to mark the 50th anniversary of his death. 

A selection of lithographs from Picasso’s Faunes et Flore d’Antibes series at The Presence of Picasso exhibition.

On a separate note, the Museum of Fine Arts previously occupied the Palacio de Buenavista (Buenavista Palace), but it was unceremoniously packed up and placed in storage in 1997 to make way for the Museo Picasso Málaga (Málaga Picasso Museum).

Fauno Blanco Tocando el Aulós (White Faun Playing the Flute) by Pablo Picasso, 1946

The exhibition featured lithographs from the Faunes et Flore d’Antibes series and engravings from Deux Contes, both drawn from the Fine Arts permanent collection. Wally, a big fan of mythology (and the male form), especially liked the collection. 

A glimpse of what awaits you at the beginning of the Fine Arts section of the museum.

First Floor: Fine Arts

Upstairs (keep in mind that in Europe the first floor is what we Americans would call the second floor), the Fine Arts section covers a broad spectrum of 19th century artworks, including pieces by old masters like Antonio Muñoz Degrain, Bernardo Ferrándiz y Bádenes, Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada, José Gutiérrez de la Vega and Pedro de Mena, among others. It also features works by prominent members of the Málaga School of Painting, such as Alfonso Ponce de León y Cabello, José Suárez Peregrin and Pedro Sáenz Sáenz.

Los Saltimbanquis (The Acrobats) by José Suarez Perigrín, 1932

El Juicio de Paris (The Judgment of Paris) by Enrique Simonet y Lombardo, 1904

Después de la Corrida (After the Bullfight) by José Denis Belgrano, 1890

Estudio de Anatomía Masculina (Study of the Male Anatomy) by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Bádenes, 1862

Tarquin y Lucrecia (Tarquin and Lucretia) by José López García, 1988

Alegoría de la Historía, Industría y Comercio de Málaga (Allegory of the History, Industry and Commerce of Málaga) by Bernardo Ferrández and Antonio Muñoz Degrain, 1870

The first piece you’ll see as you enter these galleries is a maquette, a final study for the ceiling of the Teatro Cervantes by the Valencian-born painter Bernardo Ferrándiz. In 1870, he and Degrain were commissioned to decorate the theater. Ferrándiz depicted himself as Mephistopheles, the demon who barters for Faust’s soul, on the stage set. 

The female figure, possibly a symbol of the city, sits atop a shrine holding a caduceus— a symbol associated with Mercury, the god of commerce and prosperity. Other aspects of the city’s booming cultural and economic success, including agriculture, industry, transportation and fishing, highlight its strategic location as a trading port.

However, to me, some of the most interesting pieces came from religious institutions. Like the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba, this museum’s collection includes significant works of art, images and architectural elements seized from the deconsecrated monastic properties, including the ex-convents and monasteries of the Poor Clares of Santa Clara, San Bernardo, La Merced and San Pedro de Alcántara.

Mudejar ceiling corbels 

Next, you’ll notice a set of four carved oak corbels, or brackets. They originally adorned the ends of timber beams in the Convent of La Merced and became part of the academy’s collections in 1915. These architectural elements illustrated the sins and vices parishioners were expected to renounce before entering the holy space.

Head of Saint John of God by Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada, circa 1755-1765

Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada’s sculptural style was greatly influenced by Pedro de Mena — in fact, for many years, this work was attributed to Mena. However, documents found for the production of four sculptures at Parroquia Santiago Apóstol in Málaga confirmed Ortiz as the artist. This head is the only surviving piece from that series, which was largely destroyed during the protests of 1931. An anonymous citizen saved this from the flames and left it at the parish door in a basket, ensuring that future generations could appreciate its artistic quality.

Ecce Homo by Pedro de Mena, circa 1676-1680

Throughout his lifetime, Pedro de Mena was in high demand, securing a steady stream of public and private commissions across Spain and Latin America. It’s believed that Ecce Homo came from the estate of El Retiro in Málaga and was first owned by Bishop Alonso de Santo Tomás, who hired Mena to carve images for his private oratory while the sculptor was working for the bishop’s order at the Monastery of Santo Domingo.

(Postrimerías) A Moro Muerto, Gran Lanzada, or (Dying Moments) Kicking a Man While He’s Down by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes, 1881

This small painting might seem unremarkable at first glance, but it has an interesting story behind it. The artwork was inspired by an actual event that forever changed the artist’s life. Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes had a physical confrontation with Juan Nepomuceno Ávila, a fellow academy member, municipal architect and close friend of the Marquis of Salamanca. The dispute arose because Ávila denied financial support to the San Telmo Fine Art School, where Ferrándiz was the director at the time.

Ávila used the incident to have Ferrándiz expelled from the institution. Ferrándiz subsequently was accused of attempted murder and imprisoned. Although the exact details of the altercation remain unclear, the event left Ferrándiz shaken. The once-prominent artist faced social ostracism, which plays out in his artwork, where he depicted himself as the skeleton of a cat, with Ávila as a mouse. He inscribed the following on the frame: “Fierce king, yesterday I gave you my laws to respect, and today, with death upon me, even you come to trample the dust of what I was.”

Additionally, the museum has a small collection of Spanish modern art up to the 1950s, including works by José López García, José Moreno Villa, Juan Fernándo Béjar and, yes, Picasso. 

This Italo-Corinthian helmet most likely belonged to a high-ranking warrior. It was unearthed in 2012 by archaeologists excavating a site between Calles Jinete and Refino in Málaga’s historic quarter.

Second Floor: Archeological Section 

The second floor (third floor to you Americans) galleries focus on archaeology, with the first two rooms dedicated to the private collection of Jorge Loring Oyarzábal and his wife, Amelia Heredia Livermore, also known as the Marquis and Marquesa de Casa Loring.

The Lorings had a passion for antiques and collecting. One of their most important acquisitions was several pieces from the collection of 18th century Córdoban antiquarian Pedro Leonardo de Villacevallos, which included capitals from Medina Azahara, Umayyad-period tombstones and sculptural relics from Ancient Rome.

A collection of marble busts, and funerary plaques from the Villacevallos collection acquired by the Lorings

This 18th century religious sculpture, depicting the realistic severed head of Saint John the Baptist, is paraded through the streets of Málaga during Holy Week. 

A mosaic fragment depicting Priapus, the son of Venus and Bacchus. Commonly shown with a massive erection and basket of fruit, it’s no surprise he’s a god of fertility.

The remaining halls cover a vast historical timeline, showcasing how each civilization — from prehistory through the Phoenician, Roman, al-Andalus and Christian Reconquest periods — contributed to the city’s cultural mosaic. In recent decades, artifacts unearthed during construction and in excavations carried out by the University of Málaga have been added to the collection.

A detail of the center of a 1st century Roman mosaic depicting the goddess Venus surrounded by a menagerie of birds.

Speaking of mosaics, a 1st century floor panel depicting the birth of Venus, the goddess of love, sex and beauty, takes center stage in the museum’s Roman galleries. Discovered in 1956, it was found lining the floor of a Roman villa in the nearby town of Cártama. This impressive mosaic measures 13 by 20 feet (4 by 6 meters). It shows the naked goddess reclining on a giant scallop shell above a couple of dolphins.

The 2nd century Roman statue known as La Dama de la Aduana, discovered while digging the foundations of the museum in 1791, welcomes visitors at the entrance.

A Trip Back in Time at the Museo de Málaga

To sum up our experience, the Museo de Málaga was more than just a tourist attraction. It was a journey through epochs that celebrates Málaga’s multifaceted identity and enduring spirit. Its artworks and archaeological objects are well organized and clearly marked in both English and Spanish. As you walk through its halls, the city’s colorful history comes alive. –Duke

Museo de Málaga

Plaza de la Aduana 1
29015 Málaga
Spain

 

Top 5 Must-Visit Attractions in Chennai

Take a leisurely walk on Marina Beach, marvel at Kapaleeswarar Temple, discover treasures at the Government Museum, unwind at Elliot’s Beach and spot wildlife at Guindy National Park — all in Tamil Nadu’s capital.

Aerial view of Chennai, India with the Kapaleeshwarar Temple dominating the skyline

Formerly known as Madras, Chennai, the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, is India’s fourth-largest city. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, the city serves as the gateway to South India and is as diverse and colorful as its namesake plaid. 

From the awe-inspiring 7th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, to bustling street markets and serene beaches, Chennai captivates visitors with its blend of rich traditions, old heritage and contemporary wonders. Be sure to add these five must-see locations, where natural beauty, history and one-of-a-kind culture come together to make for an unforgettable trip. 

Marina Beach

1. Marina Beach: A Haven of Serenity

Stretching along the Coromandel Coast, Marina Beach, or simply the Marina, is a popular spot, where both locals and visitors can enjoy the second-longest urban beach in the world. 

Looking out over the Bay of Bengal reveals a seemingly endless body of turquoise-colored water, while its eight-mile (13-kilometer) expanse of golden sand beckons you to take off your shoes and feel the waves lapping at your feet. But you shouldn’t plan on going into the water. This beach is only for walking — swimming is prohibited, as the undercurrent is considered too strong.

The Marina is also the site of a variety of festivals, delicious street food, and souvenir and handicraft shops. 

You can also explore Fort St. George, located at the north end of the beach. Historically known as White Town, it was built in 1639 by the British East India Company and served as the epicenter of the growing city of Madras. 

Fort St. George

Be sure to look out for the statue of Kannagi, the heroine and central character from the Tamil epic Silapathikaram, holding an anklet in her hand and demanding justice. 

Statue of the heroine Kannagi on Marina Beach

I recommend visiting the beach at dusk to enjoy the sunset or at dawn to see the sunrise, when the sky takes on an intense orange hue. 

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

2. Kapaleeshwarar Temple: A Sacred Architectural Marvel

One of Chennai’s most well-known landmarks, Kapaleeshwarar Temple is dedicated to Arulmigu Kapaleeshwarar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and his consort, Karpagambal, an embodiment of the goddess Parvati. 

The ancient temple is a testament to the city’s remarkable architectural legacy, combining elements of Dravidian and Pallava styles. You can’t help but be captivated by its monumental gopura, or main temple tower. 

The Kapaleeshwarar temple complex

At 131 feet tall (40 meters) the richly decorated structure is covered with vibrantly colored sculptures depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

Past the grounds of the temple, the winding alleyways of the Mylapore neighborhood provide a sensory adventure. Explore the lively marketplaces, where kiosks brim with brilliantly colored fabrics, traditional handicrafts and aromatic spices.

The Neo-Mughal façade of the Government Museum in Chennai

3. Government Museum: A Trove of Cultural Treasures

The Government Museum complex has an impressive collection of artifacts and sculptures from the major South Indian periods, ranging from 2nd century BCE Buddhist sculptures to 16th century work from the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar. Each exhibit reveals an intriguing story as you meander through the galleries, illuminating the customs, artistic expressions and lifestyles of those who formerly inhabited this part of the country.

13th century bronze statue of Ardhanarishvara at the Government Museum

Its collection of coins, ceramics and other antiquities provides a window into the region’s rich past. Especially breathtaking are the magnificent bronze sculptures produced during the Chola dynasty. Their exquisite craftsmanship depicts gods and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon, including the striking bronze of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.

Ellitot’s Beach

4. Elliot’s Beach: A Peaceful Spot to Reset

Named after the colonial-era magistrate Edward Francis Elliot, the laidback Elliot’s Beach offers a tranquil escape from the crowds of Marina Beach. This peaceful retreat can be found in the upscale Besant Nagar residential neighborhood and is a favorite hangout for locals, particularly the younger crowd.

The soothing sounds of lapping waves and refreshing ocean breeze will instantly calm your senses as you approach this serene stretch of sand. In often-hectic India, you’ll welcome the opportunity to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. It’s a great spot to watch the sun rise, too.

For those seeking a more active experience, Elliot’s Beach offers a variety of watersports and activities, including surfing and kayaking. 

If the water isn’t your thing, there are plenty of cafés, restaurants and boutique shops nearby.

Karl Schmidt Memorial

While you’re here, stop and admire the gleaming white memorial dedicated to Karl Schmidt, a Danish sailor who drowned in the 1930s while attempting to save the life of a girl struggling against the tide.

Guindy National Park

5. Guindy National Park: A Green Oasis in the City

Amid Chennai’s bustling cityscape, the lush sanctuary of Guindy National Park calls out to adventurers and nature enthusiasts to experience the tranquil embrace of the natural world. The sounds of the city fade away as you enter the park, replaced by the soothing melody of rustling leaves and chirping birds.

A white peacock at Guindy National Park

Embark on a hike or bike ride along the network of well-maintained trails weaving through scrub and forest. In addition to the verdant foliage, keep an eye out for a wide variety of animals, including spotted deer, blackbucks, serpent eagles and Indian star turtles.

Chennai Central Railway Station

Natural Wonders and Historical Treasures: Something for Everyone

Chennai offers a variety of activities to suit every traveler’s taste. Whether you seek the tranquility of the sea or the bustling energy of its vibrant temple complexes, this captivating city promises an unforgettable time for all who visit. –Jonathan Rastogi

Mansions, Monuments and Museums of the Plaza de Jerónimo Páez in Córdoba

While exploring the historic quarter of Córdoba, Spain, admire the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo and Casa del Judío before you stop in the archaeological museum.

It’s easy to understand why Córdoba’s entire historic quarter earned its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 1985. As Wally and I explored the narrow cobblestone streets of la Judería, the city’s former Jewish quarter, our wanderings led us to charming plazas that opened up to reveal historic homes and restaurants with inviting outdoor seating, where you can sit and relax with the locals. 

Among these squares is Plaza de Jerónimo Páez, named after a descendant of the influential Cordobesan family responsible for the Renaissance-style Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo and the equally historic Casa del Judío. Having endured years of neglect, the plaza was renovated in the 1990s, when the archaeological museum was expanded.

During the city’s era of Roman occupation, known as Corduba at that time, this square served as the entertainment district, boasting one of the largest theaters in the empire. The partial remains of this historic structure are now displayed beneath the modern Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba, located next to the atmospheric 16th century Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo.

From palace gardens to private residence to school to museum, the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo has had a rich history.

Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo

What initially caught our attention as we walked through the square was the gloriously decayed sandstone façade of the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo family — aptly named, considering their surname, Castillejo, translates to “Little Castle” — which is essentially what this home was.

A pair of life-size marble korai, female figures dressed in long tunics, and a Corinthian capital with acanthus leaves creates a striking vignette.

This lovely Roman mosaic includes motifs such as interlaced Solomon’s knot, vines, pomegranates and crescent-shaped pelta shields.

One of the many beautiful Mudéjar-style niches with scalloped arches within the palace courtyard — and the equally dashing Wally. 

The residence was renovated in the 16th century by Luis Páez de Castillejo and stands on the grounds of what were once the gardens of Ybrahim Ben Nacer Alfaqui’s palace. In 1538, he commissioned the prominent Spanish architect Hernán Ruiz II to oversee the redevelopment of the main courtyard, Renaissance-style façade and sculpted railing of the main staircase. Ruiz II collaborated with his father, Hernán Ruiz the Elder, on the contentious construction of the Capilla Mayor within the Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.

The silhouettes on the cloth added a modern art feel to this area of the courtyard.

Besides serving as the Páez de Castillejo residence, the building was used as a school at the end of the 19th century, known as the Polytechnic Academy. And in 1959, it became the Archaeological and Ethnological Museum of Córdoba.

This impressive sculpture, known as the Thoracata of Córdoba and named after a type of Roman battle armor, depicts the massive torso of a hero — possibly Aeneas in his escape from Troy — wearing an intricate breastplate adorned with a pair of griffins.

Its exterior is similar to Ruiz II’s work on the Puerta del Puente, the principal gateway to the Roman Bridge in town, and, like the monument, was designed in the style of a triumphal arch. Among its notable features are a pair of porticos supported by Doric columns, with heroic figures positioned between them. Above the entablature, classical figures hold the family coat of arms. This imagery aimed to immortalize the Páez de Castillejo family as the living embodiment of discipline, loyalty and self-sacrifice to the people of Córdoba. 

This staircase features a sandstone railing designed by Hernán Ruiz II as well as a Roman mosaic depicting rearing horses drawing a chariot.

Be sure to go through that gorgeous gateway — it’s free and only takes a short while to stroll around the courtyard.

Initially, Wally and I stood there, gawking and uncertain about entering, but after we saw a man speaking to the guard stationed at the entrance, we decided to ask about the building. The guard informed us that it’s an extension of the modern archaeological museum and welcomed us to take a look around the interior courtyard. We walked around the first courtyard, which is dedicated to Roman archaeology, including mosaics and sculptures. However, unlike the adjacent institution, the artifacts on display here are not clearly marked.

Although it’s not open to the public, the exterior of Casa del Judío is worth pausing to take a look at.

Casa del Judío

Over the centuries, the enigmatic building located across from the Palacio de los Páez de Castillejo has been inextricably linked to the Castilian royal family and the generations of noble lineages connected to them, including the Sousa, Haro, Armenia and Cárdenas families.

Originally a Mudéjar palace, the stately manor is also called the Palacio del Duque de Medina Sidonia, or the Palace of the Duke of Medina Sidonia. For, it was within these walls that the bastard son of Juana de Sousa and Henry II of Castile, Enrique de Castilla y de Sousa, aka the first duke of Medina Sidonia, was born.

While eating at La Cavea, we spotted a cool couple in front of the Casa del Judío.

Although it’s not open to the public, you can still admire its ceramic-tiled roof, vibrant fuchsia bougainvilleas and square tower with a hipped roof enclosed by a latticework screen. To the left of the doorway, sheltered by greenery, is a bronze bust perched atop a marble plinth immortalizing the Roman poet Marcus Annaeus Lucanus (39-65 CE), better known in English literature as Lucan. 

Lucan was the nephew of the philosopher-statesman Lucius Annaeus Seneca (Seneca the Younger). He attracted the favorable attention of the Roman emperor Nero but conspired with Gaius Calpurnius Piso in a scheme to assassinate Nero and install Piso as his successor. Ultimately, its failure led to Lucan’s arrest and his subsequent suicide at the age of 26. 

Today the home is more commonly referred to by locals as la Casa del Judío, or in English, the Jew’s House, in reference to Elie J. Nahamias, a Judeo-Greek businessman and its most recent owner, who passed away in 1994. Nahamias was a descendant of the pre-exile Sephardic communities that inhabited the Iberian Peninsula and assembled an impressive library of printed books and manuscripts spanning six centuries of Jewish history. His collection is held by the Library of the Alliance Israélite Universelle based in Paris, France. And although the property is privately owned by his children, you can still admire its beautiful exterior.

A cute location and a good option if you want a snack or drink while visiting the archeological museum — but otherwise you can find better food elsewhere in town.

Café-Bar La Cavea

The center of the square is taken up with a casual resturant, with tables placed under the shade of trees (with white umbrellas an additional barrier from the heat when needed), all sitting amid broken remnants of Roman columns. When we stopped by, there was live music, with a performer taking up station by the fountain.

Beware choco! Although our Spanish friends say it’s actually good, this one was rubbery and flavorless. If you really want to cringe, do a search for “cuttlefish.”

While the café gets points for its setting, the food didn’t impress us — especially since we ordered calamari but where told they had choco instead, which is very close. Imagine our dismay when we discovered that it not only looked like and and was practically the size of a bleached, deflated football, it tasted like one, too. (Wally had also made the mistake of Googling what cuttlefish look like, which didn’t do him any favors). I was recovering from heat stroke, so he choked down as much choco as he could before giving up.

Detail of an intricately carved Mudejar relief featuring sebqa work, a decorative technique characterized by the repetition of geometric and vegetal forms.

Hidden Gems

Our wanderings through the historic Plaza de Jerónimo Páez offered glimpses into Córdoba’s rich history, through its ruins, artifacts and storied mansions. This square is no longer the bustling entertainment district it was when it was home to one of the largest theaters in the Roman Empire. But it still captivates visitors with its antique structures and inviting energy. Be sure to admire your surroundings before you head into the archeological museum, which is worth visiting. –Duke

Plaza de Jerónimo Páez