Things I Love (and Hate) About Visiting Nice, France

A French Riviera vacation isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. From the good (Promenade des Anglais) to the bad (those rocky beaches), Nice isn’t always so nice.

La Fontaine du Soleil (Sun Fountain) in Place Massena, featuring the god Apollo, who had a penis reduction when local prudes complained about the size of his member.

Nice, perched on the French Riviera like a glamorous cat with its claws discreetly extended, is a masterclass in contradictions. It seduces visitors with sun, sea and effortless French charm…and then mischievously picks their pockets while they’re mesmerized by the view — metaphorically, of course! But hey, who doesn’t love a bit of drama with their vacation? 

FYI, in case you didn’t know, the town is pronounced “Neece.”

“Nice is like a stunning yet slightly eccentric aunt — you adore her, even when she spills red wine on the carpet or tries to set you up with her neighbor’s weird nephew or niece. ”

Let’s dive into the highs and lows of visiting this captivating coastal city.

Promenade des Anglais

Love #1: Promenade des Anglais: Where People-Watching Is an Olympic Sport

The Promenade des Anglais is Nice’s beating heart, a seaside catwalk of epic proportions. Here, everyone gets their moment in the Riviera sun. Picture lean joggers who might be training for their next triathlon (or planning a croissant heist), bronzed locals radiating an unattainable level of chic and confused tourists swerving to avoid rogue rollerbladers.

The iconic blue chairs lining the Promenade aren’t just for sitting; they’re front-row tickets to the greatest free show on Earth. From these vantage points, you can judge beach fashion trends, ponder the existential questions of life or simply chuckle at the antics of your fellow humans — all while sipping on an afternoon cocktail.

The beach is rocky — but still popular.

Hate #1: The Beach: A Masterclass in Foot Massage (the “Ouch” Kind)

Ah, the beach. You’re probably expecting the promise of soft, golden sand tickling your toes. Nice, however, delivers a crunchy symphony of pebbles instead. Let’s just say that the walk from your beach towel to the water’s edge could double as an audition for Riverdance — if Riverdance involved more wincing and less coordinated leg-flailing. 

Seasoned travelers might embrace the challenge, but the rest of us question our life choices amidst a chorus of muffled curses and grunts. You can always be a wimp and grab some beach shoes before you go; although the Fashion Police may be on to you quite quickly!

Old Town Nice

Love #2: Old Town Nice: A Time Travel Adventure

Vieux Nice (Old Town Nice) is where the city sheds its glitzy façade and reveals a delightfully dishevelled heart. 

Narrow lanes twist and turn, exuding an air of cheerful conspiracy. Buildings the color of faded sunsets lean towards each other as if sharing centuries-old gossip, while tantalizing scents of pain (bread) and ripe fromage (cheese) waft from open doorways.

The Cours SaleyaCours Saleya marketmarket can often prove to be a lot for the senses. Mounds of jewel-toned produce flirt with glitzy flower bouquets, the only competition being the cacophony of enthusiastic vendors hawking their wares. 

It’s the perfect place to snag picnic supplies or simply soak up the kind of chaotic energy that makes a vacation memorable.

Don’t expect any deals in Nice — it’s a popular resort town, and the prices reflect that.

Hate #2: The Cost of Living: Nice Ain’t Cheap

This place, dear traveler, understands the phrase “location, location, location,” maybe a little too well. Even a humble cup of coffee comes with an invisible yacht surcharge. 

Be prepared to witness menus that induce mild heart palpitations, making you reconsider whether those stunning sea views are truly worth their weight in gold.

Fret not, though, there are ways to navigate Nice’s financial landscape. Embrace the picnic life, stock up on market goodies and consider pre-booking Nice airport transfers to avoid heart-stopping taxi fares. The views are still free — for now at least.

Nearby Saint-Paul-de-Vance

Love #3: Day Trips: Escape the Glamour Bubble (If You Want)

The true magic of Nice lies in its prime location. A short voyage reveals a myriad of delights. Questionably perched medieval villages spill down hillsides, tempting you with cobblestone alleyways and whispers of a charm seemingly long gone from the modern world.

The glitz of Cannes and Monaco gleams on the distant horizon, offering a peek into a world of designer sunglasses and yachts large enough to have their own zip codes.

Gorges du Verdon

And for a dose of raw natural beauty, the Gorges du Verdon provides a breathtaking playground for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Nice is charming as hell — but expensive. And don’t get me started on the beaches.

My Love-Hate Relationship With Nice

Nice is like a stunning yet slightly eccentric aunt — you adore her, even when she spills red wine on the carpet or tries to set you up with her neighbor’s weird nephew or niece. 

It’s a place that will charm and disarm you in equal measure, offering enough material for hilarious vacation anecdotes to last a lifetime. 

So, would we go back to Nice? In a heartbeat. Armed with comfy shoes (especially the beach variety), a thirst for adventure and the finer things in life, and definitely a thick wallet. –Alphonse Dufresne

 

The Art of Olive Oil Production at LA Organic

From ancient groves to modern architecture: Take a tour of LA Organic, dedicated to the production of award-winning organic olive oils and co-founded by Philippe Starck.

José, Wally, Duke and Jo enjoyed learning about olive oil production at LA Organic — and tasting the goods afterward.

When I reflect on our time in the South of Spain, particularly our culinary adventures spent with our friends Jo and José, aceite de oliva, aka olive oil, immediately springs to mind — it’s essentially the foundation of Andalusian cooking.

“It takes about five years for an olive tree to mature. They typically yield between 33 to 44 pounds of olives, resulting in 2 to 5 liters of oil each year.”

Each morning starts with a humble piece of toasted bread, drizzled with olive oil and topped with grated tomato, to accompany a morning cup of coffee. Jo and José always had fresh molletes, a traditional ciabatta-like bread that they picked up from a local shop near their flat in Málaga. 

Not to mention boquerones, a shareable and delicious appetizer of tender anchovy filets marinated in vinegar and olive oil that we consumed with gusto — something my younger self would have ignorantly declined.

A view of Philippe Starck’s avant-garde La Almazara, a mill museum that was partially built when we visited

A Starck Contrast

During our visit to Ronda, after visiting the church of Santa María la Mayor, Jo and José arranged for the four of us to take a guided tour of LA Organic (pronounced like the Californian city). The artisanal producer in the Andalusian countryside is located about two miles (three kilometers) outside of the charming town of Ronda, and was originally established in the 1990s as La Amarilla. It has since developed into an impressive full-scale business.

This collaboration involves Spanish investment banker Pedro Gómez de Baeza, whose family owns LA Amarilla, French designer Philippe Starck, and renowned oenophile Michel Rolland. Gómez de Baeza and Starck met in Madrid during the opening of Beatriz, a former theater converted into a restaurant. The interior was reimagined by the designer, and the pair became fast friends.

The sunny yellow entrance to the Greenhouse at LA Organic features an oversized single green olive and leaf, the same design used on their packaging, which was created by Starck in 2009.

LA Organic: What’s in a Name?

The “LA” in its name refers to La Amarilla, one of the centuries-old fincas (farms) within the sprawling complex, where more than 200 years ago, a small sisterhood of nuns lived, harvested and produced olive oil from the fruit of its ancient grove, some 800 years old — a tradition that the Gómez de Baeza family continues to this day.

Part of the interior the Greenhouse will have you seeing red — an homage to the local passion for bullfighting.

LA Organic Tour

After pulling into the red dirt parking lot and stepping out of the car, we exchanged curious glances, and a smile spread across my face. In the distance, among the neat rows of gnarled, knotted olive tree trunks, stood a crane and a large cuboid building, with an expressive eye peeking out from its terracotta-colored façade — the avant-garde future mill and museum of LA Organic, designed by Starck. It’s officially called La Almazara (The Mill), but nicknamed “El Toro” due to the huge horn planned to be added to its exterior.

The four of us took the red dirt path leading from the parking lot to a bright yellow building emblazoned with a massive green olive, the same one that appears on its packaging. I would later learn that this building is known as the Greenhouse, but to my eyes it looked more like a barn. 

The back of the long, narrow Greenhouse has an outdoor patio.

Inside, we were provided with wireless headsets to help us hear our guide during the walking tour. We also watched a short video that recounted the origins of “liquid gold” in the Mediterranean and outlined the educational vision of LA Organic.

Once the video ended, our group followed our guide Úrsula outside. She began by telling us that the estates of LA Organic encompass 64 acres (26 hectares) and, in addition to the aforementioned ancient olive grove of La Amarilla, has over 6,000 different varieties of olive trees. 

There are art installations by Starck in the groves.

Duke and Wally loved the giant mirror on the grounds.

As we followed Úrsula through the groves, she explained that it takes approximately five years for an olive tree to mature. During this time, each tree typically yields between 33 to 44 pounds (15 to 20 kilograms) of olives, resulting in 67 to 269 fluid ounces (2 to 5 liters) of oil per year.

A rustic guardaviña, a stone building used for storing tools and providing shelter during the heat of the day, as well as protection from rain, stands among the olive groves.

Olive Oil Production at LA Organic 

We learned about the painstaking process of producing their exceptional organic olive oil. Úrsula explained that on harvest day, which would be happening in November, workers use 22-foot-long (7-meter) wooden sticks, known as a vareo, to beat the branches. Nets are spread beneath the trees to catch and prevent the falling fruit from landing on the ground, which would taint the harvest. 

This majestic, olive tree is the oldest on the property — ringing in at 800 or so years!

The olives are then collected from the nets, transported to the Almazaras de la Subbética, a mill just under an hour away, and pressed shortly thereafter to preserve the integrity of the flavor. This results in an olive oil with the lowest possible acidity, without any chemical additives or fertilizers. 

One of the varieties at LA Organic, the hojiblanca olive tree is typical of central Andalusia and is characterized by the white tone on the underside of its leaves. 

Like a Virgin

Seven organic varieties grown here are used for production, including the soft and fruity arbequina, grassy hojiblanca, briny manzanilla, peppery pajarera, slightly bitter picual (named for its pointy shape), herbaceous picudo and verdial. Rolland applies his wine skills to masterfully blend these varieties, depending on the desired intensity of the oil.

Like coffee and wine, weather, terrain and soil conditions play a crucial role in determining both the quantity and quality of olives at LA Organic, with the most fruitful groves cultivated in the fertile hills. 

Úrsula explains how drought has been a big problem of late, with decreased yields driving up the price of olive oil across Spain. (P.S. Using an umbrella is a good idea, with much of the tour exposed in the blazing heat.)

Dealing With Drought

Olive oil production in Spain dropped by about one-third in 2023 due to a prolonged drought caused by a string of heatwaves and nearly three years of reduced rainfall. 

As the world’s leading producer of olives and olive oil, Spain supplies approximately 40% of the global output, with around 75% coming from the Andalusian region. Jo and José told us that, with the price of this cooking staple increasing, locals had resorted to stealing oil from restaurants.

Úrsula explains how olives are processed at LA Organic using the cold press extraction method. 

More Than a Splash in the Pan

The tour culminated where it began, at the Greenhouse, with a tasting of their oils. LA Organic specializes in extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), which means that all their oils undergo a single pressing, using the cold-press extraction method. 

This process involves crushing the olives into a pulp while keeping the temperature no higher than 80.6 degrees Fahrenheit or 27 degrees Celsius (the “cold” part of the process), followed by centrifugation to separate the oil from the pulp. Lower-quality oils — those that aren’t extra virgin — are often crushed multiple times and at higher temperatures to extract more oil from the fruit.

How to Taste Olive Oil

The tasting session featured four different kinds of olive oil, which we sampled both with and without bread. Our instructions were to pour a small amount of oil into our tasting cups and swirl it gently to release its aroma. We lifted the cups to our nose and took a deep inhalation, noting the differences in smell between the mild arbequina and picudo, intense yet smooth picual, hojiblanca and arbequina blend, as well as the grassy 100% hojiblanca oil. 

Our tasting spread

When tasting olive oil, take a small sip and allow it to coat your mouth. Pay attention to the flavors and aromas present. It’s common to experience a peppery sensation in the throat, as well as notes of grassiness and bitterness, which are indicative of high-quality oil. 

Inside the Greenhouse, where you can taste the oils, order drinks and nibblies, and buy some bottles to take home.

We bought a couple of bottles of the milder LA Organic Suave and a bottle of organic balsamic with sherry vinegar to take back to Chicago with us. (We’re ashamed to say that the bottle of olive oil we purchased as a gift ended up being used in our kitchen.)

A corten steel structure featuring a square cutout frames a stunning view of the Grazalema Sierra mountains.

The Deets

I highly recommend a tour of LA Organic as a way to learn about the cultivation and production of Andalusia’s most important export. 

The walking tour and tasting cost $21 (20€) per person and lasted approximately 45 minutes, with an additional 45 minutes spent sampling their oils. 

Our guide, Úrsula, spoke both English and Spanish fluently. She was friendly, enthusiastic and patient, taking the time to share her knowledge and answer all of our questions. We left feeling inspired by their commitment to sustainability and were impressed by the quality of LA Organic’s olive oils. –Duke

LA Organic 

Carretera Ardales Ronda A 367
Kilometro 39,5
29400 Ronda, Málaga
Spain

 

Top 5 Must-Visit Attractions in Chennai

Take a leisurely walk on Marina Beach, marvel at Kapaleeswarar Temple, discover treasures at the Government Museum, unwind at Elliot’s Beach and spot wildlife at Guindy National Park — all in Tamil Nadu’s capital.

Aerial view of Chennai, India with the Kapaleeshwarar Temple dominating the skyline

Formerly known as Madras, Chennai, the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, is India’s fourth-largest city. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, the city serves as the gateway to South India and is as diverse and colorful as its namesake plaid. 

From the awe-inspiring 7th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, to bustling street markets and serene beaches, Chennai captivates visitors with its blend of rich traditions, old heritage and contemporary wonders.

Want to be treated like royalty during your visit? Consider checking into an oceanfront room at the Leela Palace, where you’ll take in spectacular views of the Bay of Bengal. This grand hotel offers five-star luxury at a surprisingly low price. 

Leela Palace Chennai hotel

The epic pool at Leela Palace hotel

No matter where you stay, be sure to add these five must-see locations, where natural beauty, history and one-of-a-kind culture come together to make for an unforgettable trip. 

Marina Beach

1. Marina Beach: A Haven of Serenity

Stretching along the Coromandel Coast, Marina Beach, or simply the Marina, is a popular spot, where both locals and visitors can enjoy the second-longest urban beach in the world. 

Looking out over the Bay of Bengal reveals a seemingly endless body of turquoise-colored water, while its eight-mile (13-kilometer) expanse of golden sand beckons you to take off your shoes and feel the waves lapping at your feet. But you shouldn’t plan on going into the water. This beach is only for walking — swimming is prohibited, as the undercurrent is considered too strong.

The Marina is also the site of a variety of festivals, delicious street food, and souvenir and handicraft shops. 

You can also explore Fort St. George, located at the north end of the beach. Historically known as White Town, it was built in 1639 by the British East India Company and served as the epicenter of the growing city of Madras. 

Fort St. George

Be sure to look out for the statue of Kannagi, the heroine and central character from the Tamil epic Silapathikaram, holding an anklet in her hand and demanding justice. 

Statue of the heroine Kannagi on Marina Beach

I recommend visiting the beach at dusk to enjoy the sunset or at dawn to see the sunrise, when the sky takes on an intense orange hue. 

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

2. Kapaleeshwarar Temple: A Sacred Architectural Marvel

One of Chennai’s most well-known landmarks, Kapaleeshwarar Temple is dedicated to Arulmigu Kapaleeshwarar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and his consort, Karpagambal, an embodiment of the goddess Parvati. 

The ancient temple is a testament to the city’s remarkable architectural legacy, combining elements of Dravidian and Pallava styles. You can’t help but be captivated by its monumental gopura, or main temple tower. 

The Kapaleeshwarar temple complex

At 131 feet tall (40 meters) the richly decorated structure is covered with vibrantly colored sculptures depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

Past the grounds of the temple, the winding alleyways of the Mylapore neighborhood provide a sensory adventure. Explore the lively marketplaces, where kiosks brim with brilliantly colored fabrics, traditional handicrafts and aromatic spices.

The Neo-Mughal façade of the Government Museum in Chennai

3. Government Museum: A Trove of Cultural Treasures

The Government Museum complex has an impressive collection of artifacts and sculptures from the major South Indian periods, ranging from 2nd century BCE Buddhist sculptures to 16th century work from the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar. Each exhibit reveals an intriguing story as you meander through the galleries, illuminating the customs, artistic expressions and lifestyles of those who formerly inhabited this part of the country.

13th century bronze statue of Ardhanarishvara at the Government Museum

Its collection of coins, ceramics and other antiquities provides a window into the region’s rich past. Especially breathtaking are the magnificent bronze sculptures produced during the Chola dynasty. Their exquisite craftsmanship depicts gods and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon, including the striking bronze of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.

Ellitot’s Beach

4. Elliot’s Beach: A Peaceful Spot to Reset

Named after the colonial-era magistrate Edward Francis Elliot, the laidback Elliot’s Beach offers a tranquil escape from the crowds of Marina Beach. This peaceful retreat can be found in the upscale Besant Nagar residential neighborhood and is a favorite hangout for locals, particularly the younger crowd.

The soothing sounds of lapping waves and refreshing ocean breeze will instantly calm your senses as you approach this serene stretch of sand. In often-hectic India, you’ll welcome the opportunity to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. It’s a great spot to watch the sun rise, too.

For those seeking a more active experience, Elliot’s Beach offers a variety of watersports and activities, including surfing and kayaking. 

If the water isn’t your thing, there are plenty of cafés, restaurants and boutique shops nearby.

Karl Schmidt Memorial

While you’re here, stop and admire the gleaming white memorial dedicated to Karl Schmidt, a Danish sailor who drowned in the 1930s while attempting to save the life of a girl struggling against the tide.

Guindy National Park

5. Guindy National Park: A Green Oasis in the City

Amid Chennai’s bustling cityscape, the lush sanctuary of Guindy National Park calls out to adventurers and nature enthusiasts to experience the tranquil embrace of the natural world. The sounds of the city fade away as you enter the park, replaced by the soothing melody of rustling leaves and chirping birds.

A white peacock at Guindy National Park

Embark on a hike or bike ride along the network of well-maintained trails weaving through scrub and forest. In addition to the verdant foliage, keep an eye out for a wide variety of animals, including spotted deer, blackbucks, serpent eagles and Indian star turtles.

Chennai Central Railway Station

Natural Wonders and Historical Treasures: Something for Everyone

Chennai offers a variety of activities to suit every traveler’s taste. Whether you seek the tranquility of the sea or the bustling energy of its vibrant temple complexes, this captivating city promises an unforgettable time for all who visit. –Jonathan Rastogi

Click, Book, Go: Transportation Travel Hacks

The pros and cons of booking transportation online. Don’t get stuck at the station. Try these online booking tips for buses, trains and ferries.

OK, play along. 

Come up with a list of your favorite things about traveling. 

Is arranging transportation on there?

Didn’t think so.

When planning your travels, you’re more likely to envision sipping from a fresh coconut on a beach, wandering a city or challenging your body with a hike.

Even booking your accommodation can be fun as you sort through luxury resorts, boutique hotels or comfortable homestays. 

But transportation? Who actually enjoys figuring out those logistics, especially if they’re complicated? People who have found the right platforms and technology to solve all their transport woes — that’s who!

Technology makes travel easier

Google Maps has revolutionized the way we travel. Within seconds, we can find out how to get from Point A to B. However, its functionality is still limited.  

Google doesn’t always tell you where to book your tickets or, most of the time, how much they cost. That’s where online transportation booking platforms step in. 

Book transport stress-free 

With Bookaway, for example, you can search and compare bus, train, and ferry tickets in 128 countries worldwide. Their website offers over 80,000 travel routes, so you’re likely to find what you need. 

You can also see the price, duration, pick-up/drop-off locations and even photos of what the transport will be like — things you probably want to know when booking a 12-hour bus journey. 

Arranging transportation for your travels doesn’t sound so bad now, does it? 

Booking online vs. booking in person

Being able to book bus, train and ferry tickets online has made traveler’s lives so much easier. 

Yet some travelers still argue it’s better to book in person, so let’s take a look at the pros and cons of booking transportation online.

Pros of booking transportation online

• You can organize and book your transport before you even get to the country.

• You don’t have to spend time and money getting to and from the booking office or station to get your tickets. 

• You can avoid language barrier struggles. 

• There’s often 24-hour customer service if you need help with your booking. 

Cons of booking transportation online 

• There may be more transportation routes and times available than what are shown online.

• Some routes might be more expensive than booking in person. 

• You get to practice your foreign language skills when booking tickets in real life. 

Travel Hacks for Happy Trips

By this point, you’ve hopefully realized there’s no need to dread organizing your transport. 

The next step is to figure out how to make the journey a more enjoyable experience. Believe it or not, equipped with the right tools, a 12-hour bus trek or six-hour ferry can actually be pleasant. 

Best tips and tricks to make travel days easier

1. Have everything organized beforehand. Know where you’re leaving from, have tickets printed out if needed and give yourself plenty of time. 

2. Download podcasts, movies and TV shows. Save your data. A book is also great if you don’t get motion sick. 

3. To continue enjoying the above, ensure you have a portable charger. Running out of battery on your phone is stressful and not fun. Especially since, for most of us, our phones are also our cameras.

4. Bring a sweatshirt or sweater just in case the air conditioning is blasting. At times, it might be welcomed; at others, it might feel like the Arctic. 

5. Come equipped with plenty of snacks and water. Being hungry and bored is a horrible combination. 

Organizing transport doesn’t have to suck

Go back to that list of your favorite things about traveling. After reading this, we hope booking your transportation can be added to it.

After all, planning is half the fun of travel! –Kate Woodley

Rick Bayless Garden Tour: A Flavorful Experience

Join the renowned Topolobampo and Frontera Grill chef in his Bucktown garden on an unforgettable Chicago culinary tour. And be sure to try the begonias. 

When celebrity chef Rick Bayless opens up his urban garden for tours, snatch up tickets — they go fast.

One of the many things that I love about Chicago is that you can be a tourist in your own city. There’s so much to see and explore. So when I received an email announcing the opportunity to take a tour of Chef Rick Bayless’ urban production garden, I immediately texted my husband, Wally, to gauge his interest. Thankfully he was as excited as I was, and we were able to secure a late August visit through the Tock app. 

The Bayless home’s front door

We arrived about 15 minutes early and joined the other guests waiting outside the Bayless residence in a quiet street in Chicago’s Bucktown neighborhood. It’s situated adjacent to the 606, an elevated park that used to be a rail line.

Because we had a little extra time, Wally and I went up onto the 606 and stood on our tiptoes to get an aerial view of Rick’s garden. 

You can catch a peek of Bayless’ garden from the 606 elevated park.

After the previous tour group left, we entered through the side gate and gathered around the outdoor kitchen. The late afternoon sunlight cast a warm glow over the patio as Wally and I eagerly awaited the start of the tour. We were served classic shaken margaritas and I must admit that I was somewhat awestruck as Rick himself appeared, warmly welcoming us and sharing the fascinating history of his home.

The “welcome” margaritas were too pretty not to photograph. 

Polly’s Polka Lounge

He began by telling us that he and his wife, Deann, had been looking for a property in the city where they could live and cultivate a production garden for their restaurants, Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. After three years of searching, they were discouraged and had nearly given up. So when their real estate agent excitedly called and said, “I found your place!” Rick admitted to us that he was initially skeptical, adding that they waited three days before scheduling an appointment to see it.

At the time of the Baylesses’ viewing, a cheap plastic Old Style beer sign with the name Polly’s Polka Lounge still hung outside of the two-story brick building. Built in 1895, it was originally a tavern that served the community of Eastern European immigrants who had settled in Bucktown. “First of all you have to understand what a tavern was in 1895,” Rick said. “We think of a tavern as synonymous with a bar today, but it wasn’t back then.”

It served as a social hub, where residents could gather and connect with others who shared the same language and traditions. In an era when many families lived in small efficiency apartments with limited space to cook, taverns like this one played a crucial role in providing meals. These establishments were equipped with a full kitchen and served up the familiar, comforting dishes of their homeland. 

“The garden adheres to organic and biodynamic principles, meaning that no pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers are ever used.”

Rick recounted how he walked into the main room of the former tavern and thought, “This is where I want to live.” He was captivated by the open floor plan, 14-foot-high tin-plate-covered ceiling and terrazzo floor, which bore a beautiful patina from decades of beer dripping onto the floor where the bar once stood. 

Many of the flowers in the garden are edible.

Fun fact: When Rick asked the owners where the bar was now, he was told that it was sold to a buyer in Ireland, who had it dismantled, shipped across the Atlantic and reconstructed. He mused about the curious journey of a bar made in Chicago by Eastern Europeans now residing in a pub somewhere in Ireland. 

When Rick saw the outdoor area, which is the size of three city lots, he fell even more deeply in love with the property, and he and Deann immediately put in an offer. 

A boulder behind the adjoining property had a face drawn on it by the Baylesses' granddaughter — which Wally, of course, couldn’t resist sitting on.

Wally and Duke think the garden tour is worth the price of admission. And if you’re lucky, you’ll have Rick himself as your guide!

They’ve now lived there for nearly three decades, and as Rick tells it, it was kismet. “This is just amazing because I have always been in the hospitality business,” he said. “My parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles were all in the restaurant business, and I grew up in it and then got into it myself.” 

In addition to the former tavern where Rick and Deann reside, there’s also a three-flat next door, where their daughter, son-in-law and granddaughter live.

Bayless tells us about the behind-the-scenes drama of the pibil episode of his show.

The Pitfalls of Pit Cooking in Chicago

Before we left the grilling area, Rick pointed out an earthen rock-lined pit. This traditional pre-Hispanic cooking method involves adding firewood to heat the rocks to a temperature between 800° and 900°F. Historically, people would dig a pit, line it with rocks, build a fire, add meat wrapped in aromatic leaves and bury it to prevent oxygen from getting in. The protein cooks underground over a period of six to eight hours, using the residual heat of the rocks. Rick explained that on the Yucatán Peninsula, this method is used for making cochinita pibil, while in Southern and Central Mexico, it’s used for barbacoa. 

Rick recounted how he wanted to feature this method on his PBS cooking show, Mexico: One Plate at a Time. He got his television crew excited, and they started digging at 8:00 in the morning. However, he had overlooked one crucial detail: the shallow roots of the maple trees growing in that part of the yard. He proceeded to tell us that what appears to be him single-handedly digging the hole was actually a labor-intensive effort involving three men wielding pickaxes for nearly six hours to tackle the stubborn roots. 

“When you watch any kind of television, especially reality television, don’t believe it,” Rick added. “There’s a lot going on behind the scenes that you don’t see.”

Bayless’ local restaurants include Topolobampo, Frontera Grill and Xoco.

Garden Party With Rick Bayless

We followed our host to the heart of the garden, which features a grapevine-covered pergola that yields between 250 to 300 pounds of sweet, juicy Concord grapes annually (the same variety used in Welch’s Grape Juice). Once harvested, the thick-skinned grapes are laboriously processed through a food mill, cooked down and sweetened with sugar. The resulting pulp is used in sorbets and pies at Frontera and Topolobampo. 

The Concord grapes adorning the pergola are used in sorbets and pies.

Adjacent to the pergola is a plot dedicated to growing hoja santa, which translates to “holy leaf” in Spanish. The large heart-shaped leaves are extensively used in Mexican cuisine as a wrapper for tamales, poultry, meat and seafood, which are then steamed or baked. Its flavor is reminiscent of black licorice and root beer, and in Texas, where it grows wild, it’s known as the sarsaparilla plant.

Rick gave us an overview of the main production garden, which holds a combination of raised beds, traditional beds and containers. A few of the raised beds produce salad greens, continuously replanted throughout the season, along with aromatic herbs such as basil, lavender, lemon verbena, marjoram, spearmint and thyme. These provide the restaurants with an array of seasonal, locally sourced produce. 

Many of the fruit, veggies, herbs and flowers are used in dishes at Bayless’ restaurants.

The garden adheres to organic and biodynamic principles, meaning that no pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers are ever used, and it emphasizes the holistic relationship between plants, animals and soil. Additionally, there are two resident chickens, Grace and Frankie, and a small pond that’s not filled with koi but with goldfish from PetSmart, as well as an apiary buzzing with honeybees. 

Colorful zinnias

These cacti are resilient enough to survive harsh Midwestern winters. Bayless planted a single paddle years ago that has since grown to this size.

Raspberries add a burst of color and flavor, not to mention Mexican sunflowers, nopal cactus and butternut squash, grown for both their blossoms and fruit. These thrive alongside hanging baskets of Begonia boliviensis, whose edible red flowers pack a delightful sour citrus punch. 

Wally couldn’t believe how tasty the begonias were. It was like something Willy Wonka would create. (He went back for seconds.)

Rick urged us to sample anything from his garden, which we did, and by far, our favorite ended up being the surprisingly tart begonia blossoms. 

Fun fact: According to Rick, the cilantro we’re familiar with today originated in Southeast Asia and was introduced to Mexico by Spanish conquistadors in the 1800s. However, this doesn’t mean there wasn’t a cilantro-like herb already in existence south of the border. In the garden, you’ll discover an indigenous aromatic, the grass-like pipicha, native to Southern Mexico, with a flavor akin to cilantro.

After exploring the gardens, we used the bathroom and snuck a peek of the kitchen, where Mexico: One Plate at a Time is filmed. It’s filled with well-loved pots and pans, plant-covered windowsills and cabinets lined with souvenirs from Rick’s travels.

I found Rick to be a sincere and passionate teacher. It was a privilege to visit and experience his excitement about his garden as he spoke with us — if only for a magical hour and a half. –Duke

We were served guacamole and ceviche — which Bayless wittily clarified wasn’t made using the goldfish in the garden pond.

Rick Bayless Garden Tour

The highlights

• Guided tour of the garden (we’ve heard his gardener, a charismatic young man, often leads these, but we were lucky enough to have had Rick Bayless himself as our host)

• Welcome cocktail and light Mexican bites (we had guacamole and ceviche)

• Learn about the history of the home and garden and its role in Rick’s restaurants.

• See the diverse array of fruit, vegetables and herbs grown in the garden.

• Gain insights into Rick’s sustainable gardening practices.

• Eat as much flora as you want!

The kitchen in Bayless’ home is the one featured on his cooking show.

The details

Cost: $75 per person

Duration: Approximately 90 minutes

Availability: Select dates throughout the year

Location: Rick Bayless’ private residence in Bucktown in Chicago

Visit Tock to book a tour — if they’re available. 

Note:

• Tours sell out quickly, so snatch up a spot as soon as possible.

• The tour isn’t wheelchair accessible.

• Children under the age of 12 aren’t permitted.

Magic Mushroom Retreats: The Psychedelic Side of Barcelona

Embark on a psilocybin-fueled spirit quest in Spain’s strangest city. But what should you expect? How do shrooms work?

Embark on a journey of self-discovery and healing at a magic mushroom retreat, (perhaps in Spain?), where guided experiences unlock the mind’s potential and foster profound personal growth.

Barcelona isn’t just your typical tourist hotspot with pretty sights and tasty tapas; it’s also an underground capital for those looking to flip their mental scripts with magic mushroom retreats. The city offers a variety of unique experiences, with one of the most transformative being retreats that harness the therapeutic benefits of psilocybin, the active compound in magic mushrooms. These retreats aim to provide a secure and supportive setting for participants to undergo profound personal development journeys.

“Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.”

Gaudí’s la Sagrada Família masterwork dominates the Barcelona skyline.

The Trip of a Lifetime

Enter the emerging world of magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona. Think of them as the love child of ancient shamanic rituals and cutting-edge neuroscience. It’s where you can unlock new dimensions of your consciousness with psilocybin. Guided by pros in the comfiest of settings, participants embark on a trip to explore the wilds of their consciousness that’s set up to be as safe as possible.

Psilocybin, a natural compound with psychoactive properties, is found in certain species of mushrooms.

What is psilocybin?

Simply put, it’s the “magic” in magic mushrooms that catapults you into profound psychological adventures. 

This naturally occurring compound is found in over 200 mushroom species that have been used for centuries in traditional spiritual and ceremonial practices. 

When ingested, psilocybin primarily interacts with serotonin receptors in the brain.

The intensity and nature of your trip can vary greatly depending on the dose, your psychology and the environment. 

As more and more scientists study psilocybin, the buzz is hitting a high. Word on the street (and in the hallowed halls of science) is that this mind-bending compound might just be the magic bullet for battling depression, anxiety and PTSD.

Consuming magic mushrooms can lead to vivid and profound changes in perception, emotions and thought patterns, often described as a journey through the depths of your consciousness.

What happens when you shroom?

When you eat magic mushrooms, it’s like your brain turns up the dial on reality to 11, making everything — from the colors around you to your innermost thoughts — more vivid, intense and sometimes downright bizarre. 

Here’s a bit of what you might expect:

Technicolor World: The world around you might suddenly seem crisper, more detailed and drenched in colors you never knew existed. It’s like you’re seeing the world in 4K resolution. 

Emotional Amplifier: Your emotions could get more intense. A song might move you to tears, or you could find yourself laughing uncontrollably at something that’s not usually funny. It can be a bit of an emotional rollercoaster.

Time Warp: Your perception of time might take a vacation. What feels like hours could be just minutes. Time can seem to slow down, speed up or become completely irrelevant.

Nature Feels: A newfound appreciation for nature is common. Trees might seem to breathe, and patterns in leaves or grass can become fascinating. It’s like Mother Nature is putting on a private show just for you.

The Inner Journey: Shrooms often kickstart a deep dive into your own psyche. You might unearth thoughts and feelings you didn’t know you had, leading to profound insights about yourself and your place in the universe.

Remember, every shroom trip is a unique adventure. Setting, mood and company play huge roles in shaping the experience. That’s why it’s so essential to be in a welcoming and safe environment.

Over 32 million people globally have shroomed before, according to a 2020 survey by Gitnux. That number has surely grown exponentially since then.

Why are shrooms so popular?

The surge in interest around magic mushrooms, spearheaded by “shroom mommies” and similar communities, signifies a seismic shift in how society views psychedelics. No longer relics of a bygone era of counterculture, these substances are being reexamined through the lens of wellness and self-care. This movement is not just about tapping into unexplored realms of the mind but also about challenging and dismantling the longstanding stigmas associated with psychedelic use.

Barcelona’s blend of enchanting landscapes and a culturally rich environment make it a great place for magic mushroom retreat.

Barcelona, Europe’s Version of Wonderland

If there were ever a place meant for shrooming, it’s Barcelona. Thanks in no small part to the curious genius of Antoni Gaudí and the city’s embrace of vibrant Moderisme, Barcelona is whimsy incarnate. It’s the perfect backdrop for a shift in perspective.

Is shrooming safe?

Participant well-being is prioritized at these retreats, with a focus on safety by professional teams who specialize in psychedelic therapy. These experts provide continuous support, creating a secure and therapeutic environment. The retreat experience is enriched by incorporating holistic practices like meditation, yoga and nature immersion, further elevating the transformative journey.

Dive into the depths of consciousness at a magic mushroom retreat, where nature’s wisdom meets transformative healing and awakening.

What are the benefits of a magic mushroom retreat?

Attendees say they come out the other side as someone new. The insights gained and emotional breakthroughs experienced often lead to lasting changes, offering new perspectives on challenges and enhancing theirquality of life in general. It’s a journey of healing, self-discovery and personal growth. Think of it as therapy — but the kind where you might see sound and hear colors. 

The trip doesn’t end when you leave Barcelona. Chances are you’ll gain insights and lessons into daily life, taking the first steps on a new path — one that has more joy, peace and a deeper appreciation for life.

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona offer a fusion of urban whimsy and spiritual depth, inviting participants to explore their consciousness with the safety of expert guidance.

Shroom to Grow: The transformative power of nature’s most mystical fungi

Magic mushroom retreats in Barcelona are more than just a psychedelic experience; they’re a gateway to personal transformation and healing. Set in one of the most interesting cities in Europe, they provide the opportunity for those to look introspectively and make meaningful changes, guided by ancient wisdom and a supportive community.

There’s a fungus among us — and it’s time to see what it’s all about. –Kate Johnson

Maximize Mobility: Travel-Friendly Wheelchairs and Must-Have Accessories

What’s the best travel wheelchair for long trips? Make your vacation stress-free with portable wheelchair ramps, a power bank for wheelchairs and other convenience items. 

When getting around unfamiliar environments, wheelchair users often feel uncomfortable and overwhelmed by new obstacles. That’s where travel-approved accessories come in handy. Wheelchair-friendly accessories for traveling can act as solid helpers that ensure comfort and safety. 

“Let’s face it: Much of the world isn’t ADA-compliant. ”

How to Choose a Travel Wheelchair

When it comes to travel-friendly wheelchairs, there are several key factors to consider. First, it has to be compact and portable. That’s essential for navigating tight spaces and fitting into vehicle trunks or overhead compartments on planes. And best of all, you don’t have to sacrifice power; many are electric, which is helpful for long days exploring a new city. 

Lightweight construction, often made from materials like aluminum or carbon fiber, makes the wheelchair easier to lift and transport. 

For long trips, you’ll want a wheelchair with robust, puncture-resistant tires. Let’s face it: Much of the world isn’t ADA-compliant. A travel wheelchair must be able to handle various terrains and surfaces without the risk of flat tires or excessive wear. Look for chairs with large rear wheels and caster wheels in the front. They provide better maneuverability and stability on uneven ground.

Many travel-friendly wheelchairs feature quick-release or detachable components like footrests, armrests and wheels. This construction allows the chair to be disassembled and packed into a compact carrying case for transport. Such modularity also makes it easier to store the wheelchair in tight spaces like car trunks or cruise ship cabins.

Adjustability is another desirable trait in a travel wheelchair. Models with customizable seat heights, backrest angles and leg rest positions can accommodate users of different sizes and mobility needs.

Wheelchairs designed for travel often prioritize durability and low maintenance, with features like rust-resistant frames, sealed bearings and easy-to-clean surfaces. This ruggedness and ease of use helps the chair withstand the rigors of travel while minimizing the need for frequent repairs or adjustments.

But you’ll want more than just a wheelchair to get around. There are dozens of handy accessories that can help make your trips hassle-free. 

Wheelchair Accessories for Stress-Free Travel

1. Portable Ramps

One of the most useful accessories for wheelchair users on the go is a portable ramp. These lightweight, foldable, or telescoping ramps allow you to overcome curbs, steps and other obstacles. Multi-channel ramps are versatile, providing multiple slope options for different terrain.

When choosing a portable ramp, consider the weight capacity (to accommodate your wheelchair’s total weight), the length (longer ramps have a gentler slope) and the surface material (aluminum or suitcase-style models offer durability).

2. Wheelchair Bags and Cases

Storage for accessories and personal items is always welcome while traveling.

Backpack-style bags distribute weight evenly across your back while hanging bags hook onto the back of your chair. For maximum protection, hard cases with foam interiors are the way to go — just be mindful of added bulk. 

Key features to look for include ample capacity, multiple pockets for organization and weather-resistant materials.

3. Mobility Aid Accessories 

Don’t overlook the small details that can significantly enhance your comfort and independence during a long trip. 

Cup holders allow you to keep drinks within reach and minimize spills. 

Wheelchair gloves with textured palms provide better grip strength and traction for self-propelling.

And specialty seat cushions not only alleviate pressure points but also wick away moisture, helping to prevent skin irritation from prolonged sitting.

4. Power Solutions

One of the biggest concerns for wheelchair users on extended trips is ensuring a reliable power source for battery-operated chairs or other mobility devices. Invest in a high-capacity power bank (aim for at least 20,000mAh). Make sure it’s compatible with your wheelchair’s charging requirements.

Solar-powered chargers are a versatile option, harnessing the sun’s energy to keep your batteries topped up. 

For those with non-motorized wheelchairs, attachable motors can provide a power boost when needed.

5. Convenience Items

It’s the little things that make a big difference in everyday comfort and convenience. A lap desk or tray attachment serves as a surface for meals, work or leisure activities while on the go.

For those requiring catheters or incontinence products, discreet carrying cases provide simple access without compromising your dignity.

Unlock Your Travel Potential

Embarking on a long trip while using a wheelchair doesn’t have to mean limiting your itinerary. With the right accessories tailored to your needs, you can navigate your journey with ease. From travel-friendly wheelchairs to charging solutions, investing in quality accessories will help ensure an enjoyable travel experience. –Thomas Brown 

The Joyful, Colorful World of Randyland in Pittsburgh

From the imagination of Randy Gilson: how this haven of whimsy and reclaimed objects has helped revitalize the Steel City.

Randy Gilson, the mad genius behind the folk art spectacle Randyland

Nestled in the heart of Pittsburgh’s Mexican War Streets neighborhood is the vibrant and colorful landmark known to locals as Randyland. The historic district was developed in the mid 19th century, shortly after the Mexican-American War — which is why its streets are named after battles and generals from the war.

“In 1995 Randy purchased the building on the corner of Jacksonia and Arch Streets for $10,000.

He used his credit card.”

Rubble, rubble: Randy working on Randyland in the ’90s

The History of Randyland

The story began when its imaginative creator, Randy Gilson, moved to the Central Northside neighborhood in the early ’80s. Randy saw the district’s potential, despite its decline, and became a community activist. He started clearing trash and converting city-owned vacant lots into green spaces. Fueled by a singular vision and a knack for repurposing discarded objects into art, Randy embarked on a mission to create a public space that embodied joy and positivity.

In 1995 he purchased the building on the corner of Jacksonia and Arch Streets for $10,000. He used his credit card. But there was no stopping his vision: to transform the space into a haven of creativity. Over the following decades, the whimsical outdoor oasis of Randyland emerged.

When Randy creates his artwork, it looks like he gets as much paint on his pants as he does on the house.

What started as a single house adorned with colorful murals has blossomed into a sprawling art collection. Found objects — everything from plastic pink flamingos to mannequin heads to bottle caps — are given a new lease on life, meticulously incorporated into the ever-evolving landscape. Whimsical sculptures welcome visitors, their painted surfaces reflecting the playful spirit of the place. 

Local residents and volunteers rallied behind Randy’s vision, donating materials, time and expertise to help bring Randyland to life. Over the years, Randy has created numerous pieces of art and has planted more than 800 trees and 50 vegetable gardens around Pittsburgh.

Families mill about Randyland during the Mexican War Streets House & Garden Tour.

Bringing Together the Community

Randyland’s artistic style is a delightful combination of folk and outsider art. There’s no adherence to established artistic conventions; the beauty lies in the sheer exuberance and the personal touch evident in every detail. The three-story house itself is a canvas, its bright yellow exterior adorned with fantastical scenes and characters.

The whimsical wonderland of Randyland

But Randyland is more than just a visual spectacle. It’s a space that fosters a sense of community. Randy, with his infectious enthusiasm, is a constant presence, engaging with visitors and sharing the story behind his creation. The museum has become a gathering place for locals and tourists alike, a vibrant counterpoint to the industrial backdrop of Pittsburgh.

Step this way! A cutout of Randy greets visitors to Randyland in Pittsburgh.

The impact of Randyland extends far beyond its physical boundaries. It has played a pivotal role in the cultural revitalization of the North Side, inspiring other institutions such as the Mattress Factory, a contemporary art space, to flourish in the area. And its fame has transcended geographical borders. Randyland had been featured on viral listicles and in a steady stream of social posts, thanks to its numerous photogenic vignettes.

Mac, who sadly passed away, helping his partner, Randy upkeep the attraction. Their hard work has helped revitalize the Mexican War Streets neighborhood.

Not All Rainbows and Unicorns

However, Randyland’s journey hasn’t been without its challenges. The extensive use of found objects means constant maintenance and repair. And the recent passing of Randy’s longtime partner, David “Mac” McDermott, who played a crucial role in the attraction’s operation, left a void. 

Yet the spirit of Randyland remains undimmed.

Randy’s work never ends — so while the attraction is free to visit, consider leaving a donation.

Visiting Randyland

The museum is a nonprofit organization, with donations from visitors forming the backbone of its financial support. Volunteers play a vital role in keeping the installations fresh and vibrant. You can also buy Randy’s merch in his store.

The museum is open every day of the week from 10 a.m. until 5:30 p.m. but may be closed during winter due to the weather.

There’s lots of fun, artsy things to buy at the general store.

If you’re from out of town and want to experience the magic of Randyland, find the perfect place to stay. Sites like Cozycozy make it easy to search for accommodations near Randyland and other Pittsburgh attractions, ensuring a comfortable and convenient stay in the Steel City. –Tímea Nguyen

“Fueled by a singular vision and a knack for repurposing discarded objects into art, Randy embarked on a mission to create a public space that embodied joy and positivity.”

You can’t miss Randyland, a fun activity for kids of all ages.

Randyland

1501 Arch Street
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania 15212
USA

 

Pittsburgh Is Anything But the Pits

A Journey Through Benelux’s Timeless Charms

All aboard for a Benelux train tour! Add Amsterdam, Brussels, Bruges and Luxembourg City to your itinerary of Europe’s Low Countries. 

The high-speed Thalys train from Amsterdam to Brussels travels at speeds of up to 186 mph (300 km/h), covering the distance in under two hours.

As someone who loves to travel and discover Europe’s hidden gems, I embarked on an exciting adventure through the lowlands of Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. Collectively known as Benelux, the name comes from the first letters of each country’s name. 

Windmills and tulips are part of the appeal of Benelux (the Low Countries of Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg).

From the picturesque canals of Amsterdam to the medieval streets of Bruges, and the cosmopolitan allure of Brussels to the historical landmarks of Luxembourg City, each destination offered a special blend of culture, history and charm waiting to be discovered.

“I spent hours wandering along Amsterdam’s waterways, admiring the elegant canal houses, quaint bridges and bustling houseboats that lined the banks.

I felt like I had stepped into a painting by Vermeer or Rembrandt.”

Paris, the City of Light and of Love, has a timeless allure.

Beginning the Benelux Adventure

First Stop: Paris 

Setting off from London, my journey began with a train from London to Paris, a swift and seamless trip that whisked me across the English Channel and into the heart of France’s vibrant capital.

Upon arriving in Paris, I was greeted by the city’s unmistakable energy and elegance. From the iconic landmarks of the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral to the world-class art collections of the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, Paris exudes a timeless allure that captivated me at every turn. After indulging in a croissant breakfast and a leisurely stroll along the Seine, it was time to continue my journey toward the lowlands of Benelux.

Amsterdam is home to almost 62 miles of canals, 90 islands and 1,500 bridges. In fact, there are more waterways than roads!

Second stop: Amsterdam

After boarding the train to Amsterdam in the Netherlands, I found myself eagerly anticipating the adventures that lay ahead. As the train glided through the scenic countryside, I couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of the bucolic landscapes unfolding before my eyes: lush green meadows dotted with windmills and quaint villages nestled along winding rivers, all viewed from the cozy confines of my seat.

Arriving in Amsterdam, I was immediately enchanted by the city’s unique blend of old world charm and vibrant modernity. One of the highlights of my trip was wandering along the iconic canals, which crisscross the city like a network of veins, pulsating with life and energy. I spent hours wandering along the waterways, admiring the elegant canal houses, quaint bridges and bustling houseboats that lined the banks. I felt like I had stepped into a painting by Vermeer or Rembrandt.

Taxes were charged based on the width of a building — which explains Amsterdam’s tall and narrow houses.

During my time in the capital city, I visited the Anne Frank House. Its poignant exhibits and haunting history were a sobering reminder of Amsterdam’s tumultuous past. 

Additionally, the Van Gogh Museum provided a fascinating glimpse into the brilliant yet troubled genius of one of the world’s most renowned artists.

Gorgeous Baroque and Gothic buildings line la Grand-Place in Brussels.

Third stop: Brussels

I hopped on the Amsterdam to Brussels train to visit the cosmopolitan capital of Belgium. Stepping off the train, I was greeted by the city's lively atmosphere and architectural splendor. Brussels is a melting pot of culture, cuisine, and creativity. The Grand Place, with its ornate guild houses and towering spires, was a sight to behold, especially when illuminated at night. 

The Atomium, built for the the 1958 World Expo in Brussels, stands tall at 335 feet (102 meters) and was designed to resemble an enlarged iron crystal.

The Atomium, a futuristic marvel built for the 1958 World’s Fair, offers panoramic views of the city from its lofty spheres, and the quirky Manneken Pis, a statue of a small boy urinating in perpetuity, never fails to draw a crowd.

Young Duke Godfrey III of Leuven, the inspiration behind Manneken Pis, is said to have brought luck to troops by pissing on the enemies.

And who was I to say no to the city’s culinary offerings? I sampled my way through Brussels’ famous chocolatiers, indulging in pralines, truffles and decadent hot chocolate. Then it was on to waffles and frites — crisp, fried matchstick-cut potatoes served in a paper cone with mayo — all washed down, of course, with delectable Belgian beer.

The medieval town of Bruges is known for its fairy-tale charm.

Fourth Stop: Bruges

Continuing my journey, I made my way to another city in Belgium, Bruges, a medieval gem nestled amid the lush greenery of Flanders. With its fairy tale charm, cobbled roads, romantic canals and well-preserved Gothic architecture, the town felt like something out of a storybook. I wandered through its maze of narrow streets, passing historic guild halls, peaceful canals and tucked-away courtyards. 

The Belfry of Bruges, a medieval marvel dating back to around 1240, stands 272 feet (83 meters) tall and served as a treasury and observation post to spot fires.

While climbing the narrow staircase of the Belfry, a medieval bell tower built around the year 1240, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the Bruges’ rooftops and spires.

Founded in 1245, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Begijnhof was once home to Beguines, independent lay women leading pious lives, and is now inhabited by Benedictine nuns and single women, offering a tranquil retreat in the heart of Bruges.

I found serenity at the Begijnhof (Beguinage Ten Wijngaerd), a tranquil monastic community that was once home to Beguines, women who led lives of religious devotion without joining a formal religious order. The complex includes a Gothic church and about 30 white-painted houses dating from the late 16th, 17th and 18th centuries built around a central yard.

Luxembourg City boasts the world’s second-highest GDP per capita and has three official languages: German, French and Luxembourgish.

Fifth Stop: Luxembourg City

The final leg of my adventure took me to Luxembourg City, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. A fitting end to my journey, the fortified multi-tiered city is perched atop cliffs with dramatic views overlooking the Alzette and Pétrusse Rivers below.

During the German occupation of Luxembourg in World War II, the Nazis caused a lot of damage to the Grand Ducal Palace using it as a concert hall and tavern.

Sandwiched between Belgium, France and Germany,  the city is a captivating blend of ancient fortifications, lush parks and sleek modern structures. Wander through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ville Haute, Luxembourg’s Old Town, where medieval ramparts and towers stand side by side with elegant pastel-colored townhouses and charming cafés. The Kirchberg Plateau, home to the European Union institutions, offered a striking contrast with its sleek glass buildings and manicured parks. And you can’t miss the Grand Ducal Palace, the official residence of Luxembourg’s grand duke and duchess.

The charming canals of Amsterdam are but one highlight of a trip through Benelux.

Exploring the Low Countries of Benelux

My Benelux trip was a truly amazing experience, allowing me to immerse myself in the vibrant energy of these dynamic cities and uncover the hidden gems that lie within. Whether I was enjoying delicious Belgian chocolates in Brussels or admiring the picture-perfect Gothic architecture of Bruges, every moment was packed with excitement and new discoveries.

As my journey came to an end, I cherished the memories that will stay with me forever, inspiring me to continue to seek out new adventures and explore the world.

Farewell for now, Benelux — your legacy left an indelible impression on me and will forever hold a special place in my heart. –Brayden Sterling 

Alaska’s Natural Wonders: An Adventurous Traveler’s Guide to the Last Frontier

The best of Alaska: the glaciers, boreal forests, grizzlies, moose, eagles, orcas and rugged coastlines of the Alaska wilderness.

True explorers can discover the untamed beauty of Alaska: glaciers, forests, wildlife and rugged coastlines.

It’s been referred to as the “Last Frontier” — and for good reason. Alaska is one of the few great wildernesses remaining in the United States. This breathtaking, diverse expanse is an extraordinary spectacle: a diverse landscape of towering glaciers, rugged mountain peaks, vast empty tundras and dramatic coastal plains. It’s one of the most exciting places in the world to explore for adventurous travelers and is packed full of natural wonders waiting to be discovered. 

Aboard an Alaskan cruise, every view is a postcard moment.

An Alaskan cruise opens up a world of awe-inspiring beauty and lets you get to the heart of this remote yet stunning corner of the world. Discover the best landscapes of Alaska’s varied and surprisingly diverse wilderness.

Denali, aka Mount McKinley, is the tallest mountain in North America, standing at an impressive height of 20,310 feet (6,190 meters).

Glacier-Carved Mountains

Towering mountain ranges are a constant feature of the Alaskan landscape. Dramatic peaks and rugged ridges dominate the vistas, crowned by snow, ice and glaciers. Some of the continent’s highest summits can be found in the 49th state, including Mount Denali, the tallest mountain in North America. These peaks and valleys, carved over thousands of years by migrating glaciers, are a remarkable place for outdoor enthusiasts to explore, and a great place for hiking, mountaineering and wildlife watching.

Some of the numerous glaciers in Alaska are 30,000 years old!

Majestic Glaciers

Alaska’s glaciers are some of the state’s most popular attractions. The vast ice fields that cover over 100,000 square miles are actually ancient rivers of ice, constantly shifting and imperceptibly flowing, and are responsible for sculpting most of what constitutes the landscape of Alaska. 

While exploring Alaska’s glaciers isn’t for the faint-hearted, a hike over one of these frozen monuments is a unique and breathtaking experience, and you will stand gaping in awe at the towering ice walls, deep crevasses and shimmering blue ice caves. It truly is transcendental. For the less adventurous, a helicopter ride over the ice is also a treat.

The boreal forest in Alaska takes up about 65% of the state’s land mass.

Wildlife-Rich Forests

Many people think of Alaska as a barren wasteland, but its boreal forests are actually teeming with life and offer an important habitat for a huge variety of flora and fauna. Enormous stands of spruce, fir and cedar spread far and wide across the state and are home to a remarkable variety of ecosystems and natural beauty.

Up to 8,000 moose are hunted every year in Alaska.

Kodiak are members of the grizzly family and are only found on an archipelago in Alaska.

Filled with meandering rivers, tranquil lakes and pristine wetlands, Alaska’s forests are a wonderful way to see the richness and diversity of the state up close. They also offer the chance to encounter some of the Last Frontier’s most iconic wildlife, including grizzlies, moose, wolves and eagles, as well as some more hidden gems such as caribou, lynx and wolverines. 

Quaint Ketchikan is known as Alaska’s “first city.”

Coastal Marvels

It’s hard to do justice to the rough, rugged magnificence of Alaska’s coastline. Stretching for over 6,600 miles, it stands in stark contrast to the wilderness of the interior, serving up a landscape of rocky cliffs, hidden coves and eye-catching beaches, as well as charming fishing villages and delightful old towns.

Orcas, aka killer whales, are actually dolphins. But the other part of their name is apt: They’re apex predators that hunt and consume sharks, baby whales and seals.

The coastline also gives visitors the chance to discover Alaska’s marine marvels, with whale watching a particular highlight. The abundant wildlife just offshore includes orcas, sea otters, dolphins and harbor seals. 

Alaska: where adventure meets awe-inspiring beauty.

The beauty and diversity of Alaska’s landscapes cannot be overstated, and a trip to this wonderful state provides adventure, excitement and natural wonders in equal measure. This stunning destination offers a chance to reconnect with nature and should be on every traveler’s bucket list! –Boris Dzhingarov