Volcano Travel: The World’s Most Dramatic Places to Watch the Earth Breathe

The Earth is peppered with dramatic, impressive locations where its underground secrets bubble and flow to the surface. These are the most astounding.

Fagradalsfjall in Iceland

This planet of ours is full of wonders so incredible that for thousands of years more primitive peoples believed they were the acts of gods, either blessing or cursing the lands on a whim. 

Black sand beaches that experience storms so violent the early Norsemen thought that Thor was striking his hammer. 

Rock formations so otherworldly that they could only have been created by giants who stepped across the sea to fight monsters. 

Mountains so unusually shaped that the native tribes believed their scratch-like markings were created by giant bears. 

The most violent, dramatic, and spellbinding of these locations is unquestionably the volcanoes that pepper the surface of the planet. In some cases, ancient people believed that they were the chimneys of great gods, where armour and weapons were forged underground for their wars against titans and demons; in others, these molten warrens were home to demons who imprisoned gods and held them hostage.

While science speaks louder than folklore and we now understand how volcanoes work, there’s nothing that can prepare the mind for watching a volcano erupt before our very eyes. The violence, majesty and incredible visual impact of seeing the earth breathe liquid fire is something no person can understand or appreciate until they’ve seen it for themselves. That’s why I’ve curated a list of the world’s most dramatic volcanoes (consistently erupting and possible to visit) to pave the way for you.

Mount Etna in Italy

Adventure Travel: Volcano Edition

While the volcanoes we’re about to explore are all “visitable” by the public, their locations require some serious flight time. Given that many of these volcanoes erupt in what are considered fairly remote locations (and assuming that your trip takes you to more than one), my travel plan for these experiences includes private jet travel. When you book a private jet, you’re allowing yourself the freedom to move through multiple destinations without having to change flights, worry about lost bags, or concern yourself about scheduling your life to work with an airline’s plans. 

Smaller jet classes are also able to get you to remote terminal destinations, so give the idea some thought. And now, off to your fiery, awe-inspiring volcano experiences!

Mount Etna

This is Europe’s largest and most active volcano and arguably the easiest to access of any consistently erupting volcano in the world. 

Rising to an impressive height of about 11,000 feet (2 miles or 3,300 meters), Mount Etna can be found on the eastern coast of Sicily, Italy and currently erupts a few times each year. 

The lava fountains are miraculous to behold, often shooting up hundreds of feet into the air and surrounded by rivers of molten rock, making for a truly magnificent sight.

There are cable cars, off-road buses and guided hikes that will take you to safe viewing areas where bright orange and gold contrast against the deep blue Mediterranean sky. 

Stromboli

We’re in Italy again, this time to see Stromboli, a volcano on a small namesake island off the coast of Sicily. Known as “the Lighthouse of the Mediterranean,” this volcano has been erupting continuously for about 2,000 years. Eruptions take place every few minutes and blast almost white-hot lava bombs and ash into the air from its crater summit in such a distinctive way that volcanologists actually gave this kind of eruption its own name: the Strombolian eruption. 

Visitors can hike up the mountain (with certified guides only) to several viewing locations or watch the fireworks from offshore: Sunset experiences make for the most impressive views.

Kīlauea

We’re off to Hawaii next, to one of the best known volcanoes on the planet: Kīlauea.This beast of a mountain is located inside the borders of the glorious Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and is definitely one of the most unusual natural wonders in the U.S. 

With eruptions varying from fiery lava lake views to the drama of molten rock shooting 100 meters into the air and glowing red nights visible from park overlooks, it’s a very popular tourist destination. 

Viewing areas are carefully managed by local park rangers, which makes Kīlauea one of the safest spots on the planet to view the violent glory of a volcanic eruption.

Fagradalsfjall

Before the eruption in 2021 that made this Scandinavian mountain a household name, Fagradalsfjall hadn’t even so much as muttered a word for almost 800 years. 

Since then, this volcano has completely rewritten the Reykjanes Peninsula, ripping it open to expose spectacular fissures, and making it into one of the foremost volcanic adventure travel destinations in the world and a major reason to visit Iceland.

Visitors can hike across blackened lava fields to see brightly glowing rivers of lava squeezing their way up through the ground and sometimes even exploding into the air. 

Iceland’s impeccable site monitoring and management allows the country to open or close the fields to the public depending on safety concerns and flow on any given day; even when these routes are closed, there are “from a distance” viewing options that let you in on the action.

Erta Ale

You’ll find Erta Ale in Ethiopia, buried in one of the hottest places on Earth, belching forth streams of molten rock and providing a challenging but more than worthwhile experience. 

In the Danakil Depression, around 410 feet (125 meters) below sea level, a geological wonderland awaits those with the gumption to explore it. Erta Ale can only be reached on foot, on multi-day expeditions across sweltering landscapes. 

At the summit of this unusual volcano, visitors will get to see a churning lake of lava, the surface constantly cracking open with motion and reforming as the magma churns. The journey to this location is very physically demanding, but the adventure you claim as a reward is certainly worth the hard work.

Stromboli Volcano in Italy

Choose Your Own Volcano Adventure

These incredible volcanoes are some of the most underrated adventure destinations. They ask for extra effort from their visitors, but they reward those daring enough to make the trip with sights they’ll never see anywhere else. Where will your journey begin? –Mark Wood

The Ultimate Melbourne Food Guide: Where to Eat, Drink and Wander

Our Melbourne foodie tour covers the best restaurants, cafés and neighborhoods, plus insider tips on where to eat in Melbourne without wasting a meal.

Melbourne doesn’t just have a food scene. It has opinions. About coffee. About pasta. About dumplings. About wine. About the proper way to spend a Saturday afternoon. This is a city where locals will happily debate the merits of rival cafés while standing within sight of three excellent ones.

Fortunately, Melbourne earns every bit of its foodie reputation.

Whether you’re wandering hidden laneways, exploring eclectic neighborhoods or lingering along the waterfront, you’ll quickly realize the city’s greatest attraction isn’t any one restaurant. It’s the sheer variety. One minute you’re splurging on a tasting menu, the next you’re squeezing into a tiny café that serves one of the best coffees you’ve ever had.

My favorites range from morning must-visits to late-night classics. One of the things I love most is how dramatically each neighborhood changes the experience. You can spend the day hopping between polished riverside dining in Southbank, chef-driven neighborhood restaurants in Fitzroy, and easy, no-frills favorites in Richmond — all without feeling like you’ve been eating in the same city.

In Melbourne, eating isn’t something you squeeze between sightseeing. It is the sightseeing.

The Lady of St Kilda

Planning Your Melbourne Food Tour: What to Know Before You Go

Planning a Melbourne food crawl is mostly about deciding where you’re willing to loosen your belt. The logistics, though, matter more than you might think. If you’ve booked several restaurants over a long weekend, even little delays can throw off the schedule. Many travelers choose travel insurance for added peace of mind.

Popular restaurants across the CBD (central business district) and inner-city neighborhoods book up quickly, especially on weekends. Distances also have a funny way of looking shorter on a map than they feel in real life. Between traffic, crowded sidewalks and Melbourne’s famously busy tram network, getting from Fitzroy to Richmond or Southbank often takes longer than expected. Build a little breathing room into your plans.

Of course, Melbourne also has a habit of wrecking carefully planned itineraries — in the best possible way. You’ll duck into a café for “a quick coffee,” discover a wine bar next door, overhear someone recommending a dumpling spot across town, and suddenly it’s four hours later. Frankly, that’s what I’d consider a successful day.

If you’re planning a food-focused weekend in Melbourne, book the places you absolutely don’t want to miss, then leave enough room for spontaneous discoveries.

The Must-Visit Food Precincts in Melbourne

Every Melbourne neighborhood has its own personality. Rather than chasing one “best” restaurant, it’s worth exploring several precincts to experience just how different the city’s food culture can feel from one block to the next.

CBD Laneways

Hidden Restaurants & Late-Night Bites

The CBD laneways are where Melbourne’s culinary reputation really comes to life. They’re packed with hidden restaurants, tucked-away bars and enough excellent food to make getting slightly lost feel like part of the experience.

MoVida on Hosier Lane remains one of the city’s standout Spanish restaurants. It’s priced toward the premium end of the spectrum, and reservations are highly recommended, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings. A leisurely weekday lunch offers a much more relaxed experience.

Just around the corner, Marameo brings modern Italian cooking to Russell Place with an atmosphere that’s lively without feeling overdone. Outdoor laneway seating adds to the charm, but evenings fill quickly. Earlier dinner reservations make conversation much easier.

Looking for something more casual? Degraves Street is a Melbourne classic. You'll find bustling cafés, affordable brunches and people-watching that rivals any menu. Arrive before 9 a.m. if you’d rather spend your morning eating than waiting in line.

The laneways aren’t famous because they’re hidden. They’re famous because they’re packed with places worth discovering.

Fitzroy

Creative Dining & Small Bars

Fitzroy is where Melbourne gets a little artsy, a little scruffy and exceptionally good at dinner. Expect inventive menus, natural wine, independent restaurants and at least one place you’ll wish existed back home.

Cutler offers an upscale tasting-menu experience that rewards planning ahead. Weekend reservations often disappear weeks in advance, while a midweek dinner tends to feel more relaxed.

Bon Ap’ Petit Bistro delivers classic French-inspired cooking in a more approachable setting. Lunches and Sunday evenings are ideal if you’re hoping to avoid peak crowds.

One of the best things about Fitzroy is that dinner rarely ends with dinner. It’s the sort of neighborhood where one drink turns into three, and suddenly you’re hopping between intimate bars until the wee hours.

Southbank & South Melbourne

Elevated Dining Experiences

Southbank trades hidden laneways for skyline views and polished dining rooms.

Asado specializes in Argentine-inspired cooking over open fire and delivers one of the area’s better special occasion meals. Reservations are essential on weekends, though earlier evening bookings tend to be easier to secure.

Nearby, the Deck Southbank offers a more casual riverside alternative. It’s a great lunch stop or early dinner if you’d like to enjoy the waterfront before the nightlife crowds arrive.

Southbank rewards travelers who plan ahead — but once you’re seated with a river view, you’ll be glad you did.

Richmond

Asian Fusion & Local Favorites

Richmond rarely slows down. Anchored by Swan Street and Victoria Street, it’s one of Melbourne’s busiest dining neighborhoods, filled with locals, sports fans and visitors all chasing excellent food.

Hochi Mama remains one of Richmond’s standout modern Asian restaurants. Mid-priced, energetic and almost always busy, it’s exactly the kind of place worth joining the line for.

For something quieter, Tartine delivers elegant French-inspired cuisine in a surprisingly serene dining room. It’s better suited to lingering over dinner than grabbing a quick lunch, and weekday reservations offer the calmest experience.

Richmond has a habit of turning dinner into drinks without anyone really planning for it.

St Kilda

Coastal Dining & Weekend Eats

St Kilda moves at a different pace altogether. The beach encourages long brunches, lazy afternoons and dinners that naturally drift into sunset walks along the waterfront.

Republica St Kilda Beach pairs sweeping water views with one of the neighborhood’s liveliest dining scenes. An early dinner lets you enjoy the atmosphere before weekend crowds arrive.

The Lady of St Kilda offers a more relaxed alternative with an excellent brunch menu and approachable prices. Weekdays provide the best chance to settle in without feeling rushed.

Hardware Société

Coffee Culture: Where Melbourne Does It Best

If someone tells you Melbourne takes coffee seriously, they’re underselling it.

Coffee here isn’t simply a morning ritual — it’s civic identity.

The remarkable thing isn’t that you’ll find outstanding cafés. It’s that the standard is so consistently high that even an unassuming neighborhood coffeeshop has a decent chance of serving one of the better flat whites you’ve had all year.

Industry Beans

Hardware Société continues to be one of the CBD’s premier brunch destinations, while Industry Beans helped define Melbourne’s third-wave coffee movement with beautifully designed spaces and consistently excellent coffee. Prices are slightly higher than a standard café, yet the combination of atmosphere, presentation, and consistency means it rarely feels like you’re overpaying — some places feel expensive even when they’re not, and this is one of them.

Beyond the headline names, neighborhood cafés throughout Carlton, Richmond and South Melbourne quietly uphold the city’s reputation every single day. Ask a local for their favorite coffeeshop and you'll probably get five different answers — and they’ll all be worth trying.

Getting Around Melbourne’s Food Scene Efficiently

Melbourne’s restaurant neighborhoods function almost like individual villages connected by trams.

The tram network makes crossing the CBD remarkably easy, while rideshares become useful later in the evening or when you’re hopping between farther-flung neighborhoods.

Many of the city’s best dining districts — including Fitzroy, Carlton and the CBD — are compact enough to explore entirely on foot. Focus on one neighborhood at a time rather than zigzagging across the city, and you’ll spend more time eating and less time commuting.

Tipo 00

Why Melbourne Is One of Australia’s Ultimate Food Destinations

Some of Melbourne’s most memorable restaurants aren’t places you stumble upon. They’re the ones you deliberately plan your trip around.

Attica in Ripponlea sits firmly in that category. Frequently regarded as one of Australia’s finest restaurants, it’s a true destination dining experience. Reservations require planning, but for many visitors it’s the meal they’ll remember long after they’ve flown home.

Tipo 00 remains one of the CBD’s hottest reservations, serving exceptional pasta in an intimate dining room, where early lunch or dinner bookings offer the best chance of snagging a table.

Meanwhile, Chin Chin continues to embody modern Melbourne dining: bold flavors, lively crowds and queues that somehow never seem to discourage anyone. The line is simply considered part of the experience.

These are the restaurants where anticipation becomes part of the meal itself.

Chin Chin

Plan Your Melbourne Foodie Trip With Confidence

The best meal you have in Melbourne probably won’t be the one you’ve spent months researching.

It’ll be the tiny café you wandered into after taking a wrong turn. The neighborhood wine bar someone recommended over lunch. The restaurant you almost skipped because the line looked intimidating.

Do your homework. Book the places that matter. Leave room for detours.

Melbourne is exceptionally good at rewarding them. –Rob Hanson

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Before you book, make sure you’ve picked the right neighborhood. Our guide to the best luxury hotels in Melbourne for every type of traveler can help you find a stay that matches your travel style, whether you’re going for food, art or a little bit of everything.

6 Lammas and Lughnasadh Spells for Protection, Truth and Finishing What You Started

Mark the first harvest with Lammas spells for love, luck, protection and clarity — and learn how to cut, keep and sweeten what’s actually working.

By the time Lammas — also known as Lughnasadh (pronounced Lou-nuh-sah) — arrives, energy has shifted. The heat of Litha hasn’t disappeared, exactly, but it’s no longer reckless. The days are still long, the sun still strong, but something underneath it all has started to tighten, to narrow, to ask a quieter question: What, exactly, was all of that for?

Lammas is the first answer.

This is the moment of the first harvest, when what you planted back at Ostara — and pushed into full bloom through Litha — finally has to show up as something real. Something usable. Something you can hold in your hands. 

Not everything makes it. Some things were never going to. And Lammas doesn’t pretend otherwise.

That’s why the magic here feels different.

It’s about choosing what to keep. What to cut. What to protect. What to sweeten, strengthen or walk away from entirely.

Because the Wheel keeps turning. After Lammas comes Mabon, when balance returns and the full harvest arrives. By then, the decisions you make now will already be in motion. What you save will grow. What you cut will be gone. What you ignore might quietly shape itself anyway.

These spells lean into that energy directly. They’re built around the tools of the season — grain, honey, thread, simple objects you can hold, cut, bind or transform — and each one asks you to do something very Lammas: Decide what matters — and act on it.

Lammas Spellbook

1. Spell to Attract Love That Sticks

2. Spell to Protect What You’ve Built

3. Spell to Discover the Truth About Something

4. Spell to Find the Motivation to Finish What You Started

5. Spell to Sweeten a Situation in Your Favor

6. Spell to Cut Out a Negative Influence

1. Spell to Attract Love That Sticks

For drawing in real connection — and making it last

Lammas doesn’t deal in fleeting things.

This isn’t a spell for sparks or passing attention. It’s for the kind of love that stays.

You’ll need:

• a magnet

• a handful of small metal objects (paper clips, pins, nails — mixed is better)

• a slip of paper

• a pen

• a piece of bread

• a red sachet

Sit down and write what you want — not a person, not a fantasy, but the qualities that would actually nourish you. Be specific.

Fold the paper and place it in front of you.

Now scatter the metal objects loosely in front of the paper.

Hold the magnet in your hand and pause for a moment before moving it.

Say:

Draw what’s real and draw what’s true,
Not what fades, but what comes through.
Hold it close and let it stay. 
What is meant won’t slip away.

Now bring the magnet down and drag it slowly through the metal pieces, letting them jump, cling and follow.

Watch what happens. Some pieces will attach immediately. Some will resist, then snap into place. Some won’t come at all.

Do this a few times, slowly, deliberately — not rushing the moment.

Then stop. Look at what’s actually attached to the magnet.

Take only those pieces — the ones that chose to hold — and place them on top of the folded paper.

Push the rest aside.

Now take the piece of bread and tear it in half.

Eat one half slowly.

Place the other half on top of the paper and metal pieces.

Say, quietly:

What holds stays. 
What feeds remains.

Leave everything in place overnight.

In the morning, remove the bread and bury it under a tree.

Keep the paper and the metal pieces that stuck inside a red sachet.

2. Spell to Protect What You’ve Built

For guarding your work, your relationships and your energy from being undone

You’ve put in the effort. You’ve grown something real. And now the work shifts — not to building more, but to keeping what matters from being worn down, drained or taken apart.

This spell is about creating a boundary you can actually feel.

You’ll need:

• a small object that represents what you’ve built (a coin, key or something personal)

• a length of thread or twine

• a small piece of gold or green cloth

• a jar or container with a lid

Hold the object in your hand for a moment.

Be clear about what it stands for: your work, your progress, a relationship, your energy. Don’t generalize it. Name it.

Place it in the center of the cloth.

Now begin to wrap it slowly.

As you wrap, say:

What I’ve built, I choose to keep,
Bound and held, not worn or weak.
Closed to harm and closed to drain,
Only what’s mine will here remain.

Once fully wrapped, take the thread and begin to bind it with the thread or twine. Make it secure. Turn the object as you go, layering the thread in different directions — crossing over itself, reinforcing it.

When it feels tight and contained, tie it off with a firm knot.

Hold it in both hands and pause.

Then place it inside the container.

Before closing it, say three times:

Held in place and sealed with care,
What I’ve made stays guarded there.

Close the lid.

Place it somewhere safe.

3. Spell to Discover the Truth About Something

For seeing clearly — and knowing what’s real without second-guessing

Lammas is where illusions start to fall apart. It’s the time of year when you can see what actually grew, and what shriveled on the vine.

This spell is about revealing what’s been hidden or unclear. 

You’ll need:

• a small bowl

• water

• a spoonful of flour

• a slip of paper

• a pen

• a necklace or pendulum 

Write your question clearly on the paper. Be direct.

Fold it and place it beneath the bowl.

Fill the bowl with water and set it directly over the paper.

Now take the flour in your hand and pause.

Say:

What is hidden, come to light,
Show me clearly, wrong or right.
No more guessing, no disguise,
Truth revealed before my eyes.

Repeat it two more times.

Now sprinkle the flour gently across the surface of the water. But don’t stir it. Just watch.

At first it will sit on top — scattered, soft, undefined. Then slowly, it will begin to shift, gather and form patterns.

After a minute or two, take the spoon and give the water one slow, deliberate stir — just enough to disrupt what’s formed.

Watch again. What remains clear? What disappears? What becomes heavier, more obvious?

Now hold the pendulum or necklace over the center of the bowl.

Think of a yes or no question related to what you wrote on the paper. 

Say:

If the path is true, swing straight.
If concealed, turn and rotate.

Hold your hand still.

Watch carefully.

If the pendulum swings:

• back and forth: The answer is yes, true or open

• in circles: The answer is no, blocked, false or being concealed

When you have your answer, touch the surface of the water lightly with two fingers. Then touch your temple.

Say with finality:

What is true remains.

4. Spell to Find the Motivation to Finish What You Started

For pushing through resistance and actually getting it done

Lammas is the season where effort becomes outcome — or doesn’t. Where the difference between started and finished suddenly matters. If you’ve been circling something, avoiding it, losing steam halfway through… this is where you deal with it.

You’ll need:

• a length of thread or twine

• a handful of dried pasta with holes (penne or rigatoni, perhaps)

• a bowl

Sit down with everything in front of you.

Take the thread in your hand and look at the pasta. Each piece represents a step. A task. A part of something you haven’t finished.

Drop all the pasta into the bowl.

Now take one piece. Thread it onto the string.

Say:

What I start, I carry through,
Step by step, I see it through.

Take another piece. Thread it.

Repeat the chant.

Continue like this — one piece at a time, one repetition at a time.

If you feel resistance, good. That’s OK. Keep going.

The thread will begin to fill. The weight will shift in your hands. It will start to feel like something — not just an idea, but a thing you’re making.

When you reach the last piece, thread it slowly.

Say the chant one final time.

Then tie the ends of the thread together into a loop.

Hold it for a moment.

Then drape it somewhere you’ll see it often.

5. Spell to Sweeten a Situation in Your Favor

For softening tension and nudging things your way

You’ll need:

• bread or cracker

• honey

Hold the bread in your hand.

Think clearly about the situation.

Dip your fingers into the honey.

Pause. Then say:

Bitter turns and sharpness fades,
What resists now softens and sways.

Repeat it three times.

Now slowly spread the honey across the bread or cracker with your fingers.

Visualize changing something.

As you spread, say quietly:

Shift and settle, smooth and slow.

Repeat it three times.

Bring the bread to your mouth.

Before you take a bite, say:

What was strained now bends my way.

Then eat it.

6. Spell to Cut Out a Negative Influence

For removing something cleanly — and being done with it

Some things don’t need to be worked through. They need to be cut out.

You’ll need:

• a length of black thread

• scissors

• an object connected to or that represents the person you want to banish

Take the thread and tightly wrap it around the object many times. With each pass, focus on what this thing has taken from you: your energy, your peace, your time, your confidence. Bind it with force, even aggression. 

When the object feels fully bound, hold it.

Say:

What clings now comes apart.

Pull the thread tight and tie a tight knot. 

Now take the scissors.

Pause for one breath.

Then do one deliberate cut. 

Say:

Cut it loose.
Cut it free.
No more hold on me.

When the final strand falls away, unwrap the loose thread from the object and drop it aside.

Hold the object again.

Notice the difference — uncovered, separated, no longer bound to you in the same way.

Then say:

Done is done.

Repeat that line three times.

Discard the thread.

Lammas Magic

Lammas reminds us that abundance isn't just about what we’ve harvested — it’s also about how we choose to use it. This season invites us to recognize our strengths, release what drains us and prepare for what comes next with gratitude and intention. Like the first grain gathered from the fields, the small actions you take now can nourish and sustain you long after summer fades. Every sabbat has its own gifts: Imbolc magic sparks possibility; Ostara spells nurture new beginnings; Beltane spells ignite passion and connection; and Litha magic amplifies courage and transformation. Lammas teaches us what to do with all that growth: gather it, honor it and let it sustain you for the journey ahead. –Wally

The Darker Story Behind Matisse’s Jazz

A lecture at the Art Institute of Chicago revealed how Henri Matisse’s Jazz was shaped by illness, experimentation, World War II, and the people around him. 

The Tute was packed when my friend Karen and I slipped in for a lecture tied to Matisse’s Jazz: Rhythms and Color, and I’ll admit something mildly embarrassing for a person who likes museums as much as I do: Bedore that evening, Henri Matisse was one of those artists I “knew” mostly by cultural osmosis. I knew the name. I knew he was important. But if you had put a lineup of major works in front of me and demanded I identify the Matisse, there’s every chance I would have chosen wrong.

“The paper cutouts allow me to draw in color.”

— Henri Matisse

That’s part of what made the lecture so good. Emily Braun, the Art Institute of Chicago’s director of curatorial administration and research curator in prints and drawings, didn’t just explain Jazz as a famous artist book from 1947. She made a case for why it truly matters — not only within Matisse’s career, but as the work of an artist trying to solve a problem that had followed him for decades. As she put it, Jazz marked the moment when Matisse finally brought together the two things he had been pursuing all along: color and line. 

“The paper cutouts allow me to draw in color,” Matisse said. “For me, it is a simplification. Instead of drawing an outline and filling in the color — one modifying the other — I draw directly in color.”

What made Braun especially fun to listen to was that she clearly had her own crush on the material. During the Q&A, when someone asked what had surprised her most in the research, she answered, “How much I fell in love with Matisse.” 

I’m not sure I was quite as smitten, but I did leave with a far more complicated, far more interesting version of Matisse than the flattened museum shop idea I had walked in with. 

Braun said the project “undercut all of my misconceptions, that Matisse is only about sensuality, beauty and peacefulness,” and that was exactly the revelation for me too. What I had assumed would be an evening about bright colors and playful shapes turned into something richer: a story about illness, reinvention, wartime fear, and the strange, stubborn persistence of beauty.

What Jazz Actually Is — And Why It Matters

Turns out “jazz” is more than a musical genre. Matisse’s Jazz is an illustrated artist book, published in 1947, combining both images and text. It’s a carefully constructed sequence, where image and language play off each other in a kind of visual rhythm. In fact, the structure is surprisingly deliberate: full-page images are followed by multiple pages of handwritten text, creating what Matisse described as a pacing mechanism. 

“The writing served to balance out the chromatic vibrancy of the images, a way to cleanse the palate, if you will, before moving on to the next image,” Braun said. 

“The text serves only to accompany my colors,” Matisse wrote. “All that I really have to recount are observations and notes made during the course of my life as a painter.” 

And those notes are hardly polished essays. They’re messy, human, immediate — words crossed out, phrases squeezed into margins, thoughts unfolding in real time. You get the sense of an artist thinking on the page rather than perfecting his prose.

Girl in Plumed Hat (Mlle Antoinette) by Matisse, 1919

Matisse’s Jazz: Line + Color 

The exhibition at the Art Institute situates Jazz within the broader arc of Matisse’s career — and that’s where things get interesting. Because Jazz isn’t just a beautiful late work. It’s a turning point. 

“Jazz proved that his paper cutouts could be a standalone medium, not merely a tool to a broader end,” Braun explained. 

And more than that, it solved a problem he had been wrestling with for decades.

For years, Matisse had been exploring two core elements of his work — line and color — but often separately. His drawings pulsed with energy and movement, while his paintings carried the weight of color. But the two never fully merged in a way that satisfied him. With Jazz, they finally do. Or, as he put it in one of the most striking lines: “I draw directly in color.”

That might sound simple, but it’s the kind of simple that comes after a lifetime of trying to figure something out — and nearly losing the ability to work at all.

Girl in Yellow and Blue WIth Guitar by Matisse, 1939

Matisse’s Breakthrough Came After His Body Failed Him

In 1941, Matisse underwent major surgery for duodenal cancer. He nearly died. His recovery was long, painful and permanently altered what his body could do. Standing at an easel for extended periods — the basic physical act of painting — was no longer possible. He described himself in stark terms, writing to his son, “I am not a wounded man. I am a mutilated one.”

Braun framed this moment as a turning point not just in Matisse’s life, but in his work. Faced with physical limitation, he adapted — first turning more fully to drawing, and then, crucially, to cut paper. What might have begun as a workaround became something else entirely: a new way of making art. 

And the process itself feels deceptively simple. Assistants painted sheets of paper in vivid gouache, coating them edge to edge in saturated color. 

Matisse would then take absurdly large textile shears — “I don’t know how he couldn’t take his fingers off,” Braun said. “It’s a miracle” — and cut directly into the color. No sketch, no outline waiting to be filled. The act of cutting was the drawing.

He would arrange the shapes, pinning them into place, shifting them, adjusting the composition over time. For smaller pieces, he could work from bed or a chair, the board resting in his lap. Once complete, the shapes were glued down, fixing what had been a fluid, evolving arrangement into a final image.

After decades of treating line and color as separate problems, he had found a way to collapse them into a single technique.

There’s something quietly radical about that. The limitation — the body that no longer cooperates — becomes the condition that produces the breakthrough. Not despite the constraint, but because of it.

Self-Portrait by Matisse, 1901

The Invisible Hand Behind the Work: Lydia Delectorskaya

At a certain point in the lecture, one figure kept resurfacing — not in the spotlight, but just behind it: Lydia Delectorskaya.

Braun made it clear that without Delectorskaya, Jazz likely wouldn’t exist in the form we know it. She wasn’t just an assistant in the casual sense, but deeply embedded in both the practical and creative rhythms of Matisse’s studio. 

When we talk about those sheets of paper painted in luminous gouache — the raw material for the cutouts — we are also talking about Delectorskaya. As one of Matisse’s key studio assistants, she helped prepare the painted papers and played an essential role in carrying out the physical process that made the work possible.

Delectorskaya was a Russian national living in France during World War II, which made her particularly vulnerable under Nazi occupation and the Vichy regime. 

But her presence created tension within Matisse’s family, ultimately contributing to a rupture between Matisse and his wife. 

Were they romantically involved, though? The answer, by most accounts, is no. Delectorskaya always maintained a formal, strictly professional relationship with Matisse. That didn’t stop his wife, Amélie, from feeling displaced. She eventually issued an ultimatum: her or Delectorskaya. 

Matisse chose his wife. The marriage ended anyway.

At his request, Delectorskaya later returned to work with him.

Interior at Nice by Matisse, 1919 or 1920

Made in the Middle of WWII

Up to this point, you could still choose to see Jazz as a story about artistic reinvention — illness leading to innovation, constraint leading to clarity. That alone would be enough.

But then Braun shifts the frame.

Because these works — the ones that would become Jazz — were created between 1943 and 1944, at the height of World War II, under Nazi occupation in France. And once you really sit with that, it becomes harder to look at them the same way.

Braun was careful here. She didn’t insist on a single interpretation or claim that Matisse was making overt political statements in code. In fact, she emphasized the opposite — that part of the brilliance of Jazz is its openness, its ability to hold multiple meanings at once. But she also grounded it in Matisse’s own words: “It is impossible that an artist should not feel the active effects of the war that makes him think things more profoundly.”

Modern art was under attack. The Nazis had staged their infamous “degenerate art” exhibitions. Works by artists like Matisse were confiscated, removed from museums and sold off — including one of Matisse’s.

The artist’s decisions during this period — where he lived, how he moved, what risks he took — were shaped by a larger sense of responsibility. He had the chance to leave France, but chose to stay, relocating to the South of France. “If everyone who has any value leaves France, what remains of France?” he wrote.

As Braun explained, artists like Matisse and Picasso were seen as cultural anchors during the occupation. Louis Aragon, poet and Resistance figure, put it: “He was France.” Simply continuing to work, to create, to remain, carried its own kind of meaning.

Matisse’s Family and Their Connection to the Resistance

Braun walked us through what was happening not just around Matisse, but inside his immediate circle — and it reframes everything. Because this isn’t an artist vaguely aware of conflict in the distance. This is a father, a husband, a man waiting for news that may or may not come.

His daughter, Marguerite — by all accounts the child he was closest to — joined the French Resistance. She worked as a courier, moving intelligence between cities, operating under aliases, fully aware of the risk. In 1943, she wrote to him, pushing back on what she saw as his detachment: “We cannot and must not be so disinterested in the times we live in. In those who suffer and die.”

Not long after, she was arrested by the Gestapo.

She was imprisoned, tortured and held for months. At one point, Braun noted, the experience was so unbearable that Marguerite attempted to take her own life. Matisse knew none of this at the time. For three months, he had no idea where she was or what had happened to her. A friend recorded the strain he was under — that he barely slept, that the anguish over his wife and daughter never let up.

Eventually, Marguerite escaped during a transfer and made her way to safety, but even then, she couldn’t speak openly about what she had endured. In a letter to her father, she described her arrest as a “serious accident” and her imprisonment as a “hospitalization.” It’s coded, careful almost surreal in its understatement.

The Large Woodcut by Matisse, 1906

Matisse’s estranged wife, Amélie, was also involved in the Resistance — running communications for the underground network. She, too, was arrested in 1944. She was in her 70s.

And the rest of the family was pulled in as well. His son Pierre, based in New York, worked to support artists in exile and help others escape Europe. Another son, Jean, was involved in Resistance efforts tied to British intelligence, possibly even sabotage operations. This wasn’t peripheral involvement. This was active, dangerous, constant.

And so Jazz is being made in this environment — in a moment of fear, uncertainty and constant pressure. Nazi soldiers were present in the city. Raids were happening. People were disappearing.

Which doesn’t mean every image in Jazz is secretly “about” the war.

But it does mean the war is in the room.

War Symbolism in Jazz

Braun didn’t stand there and declare, this image means this, and that one means that. Instead, she offered possibilities. Suggestions. Ways of looking. And once she opened that door, it was very hard to close it again.

Because suddenly, the images in Jazz stop feeling purely playful.

Take Icarus. On the surface, it’s the familiar myth — the boy who flew too close to the sun. But in Matisse’s version, the body floats against a dark field, pierced by bursts of yellow that could be stars… or something more explosive. Aragon, a poet and friend of Matisse, described the figure as resembling a corpse. And Matisse himself suggested those yellow shapes could be either suns or stars — or, in the context of 1943, exploding shells. The red shape at the center reads differently, too. Less decorative. More like a wound.

Or the circus scenes, which at first glance feel light, almost nostalgic. But even those begin to shift. The elephant balancing on a ball — The Nightmare of the White Elephant — starts to feel less like spectacle and more like strain. The body is tense, pierced by jagged red forms. Matisse even said, “The white elephant, it is me.” 

The Sword Swallower — is that a performer, or a victim? Is that a tear, or just a line? The ambiguity is the point.

Even something like The Swimmer in the Tank, which could read as theatrical, begins to feel eerie. A pale body suspended in water, observed from the outside. Braun suggested it could evoke something darker — a body floating, passive, exposed, with an audience that cannot (or will not) intervene.

Jazz: What’s in a Name?

And then there’s the title itself: Jazz.

It wasn’t always called that. The project was originally titled Cirque (Circus), which makes immediate sense given the imagery: acrobats, clowns, performers, spectacle. But somewhere along the way, the name shifted.

Braun noted that while Jazz might refer to rhythm, improvisation and visual movement — all of which are clearly present — it also carries a cultural charge in the 1940s. Jazz was associated with American culture, with Black musicians, with hybridity and improvisation — everything Fascist ideology sought to suppress or control. In Nazi Germany, jazz had already been labeled “degenerate music.” At the same time, Allied radio broadcasts used it as a form of counter-propaganda.

So even the title may carry a subtle resistance. 

Once you start to see these images through that lens, they gain a kind of tension. A hum beneath the surface.

They become less about escape, and more about endurance.

Still Life With Geranium by Matisse, 1906

The Part That Stayed With Me

By the end of the lecture, I kept coming back to something Braun said during the Q&A — that working on this exhibition “undercut all of my misconceptions: that Matisse is only about sensuality, beauty and peacefulness.” 

And then you hear about the surgery. The pain. The fact that he could no longer work the way he once had. You hear about his daughter being tortured by the Gestapo, about months of not knowing if she was alive. You hear that he chose to stay in France when he had the chance to leave. And you start to understand that these cutouts weren’t made in some carefree vacuum.

And maybe that’s why the final Matisse quote felt like the right place to land. It’s simple, almost disarmingly so, but after everything that came before, it carries more weight: “Hate is an all-devouring parasite. Love, on the other hand, sustains the artist.”

It would be easy to read that as sentimental. But in this context — in a book made during war, by a man in pain, surrounded by people at risk — it doesn’t feel soft at all. It’s how he survived. –Wally

How Walking Holidays Help You See a Different Side of the UK

Explore the UK on foot, from Hadrian’s Wall and the South West Coast Path to the West Highland Way, Cotswold Way and more unforgettable routes. The UK looks different at 3 mph.

Most of us experience the UK at speed. We rush along motorways, watch the countryside blur past train windows or hop between attractions on a tightly planned itinerary. It’s an efficient way to travel — but it often means we miss the details that make a place memorable.

Walking holidays turn that approach on its head. Instead of racing towards a destination, the journey itself becomes the experience. Travelers choosing walking holidays in the UK through specialists such as Mickledore often discover that slowing down reveals a side of Britain that’s easy to overlook. Suddenly, the hidden valley, the village bakery, the centuries-old footpath and the unexpected conversation become just as important as the landmark at the end of the route.

“You may not cover as much ground, but you’ll often gain something far more valuable: a deeper understanding of the places you visit.”

The beauty of walking is that it changes your perspective. Distances feel more meaningful, landscapes become more immersive, and even familiar parts of the country begin to look different. Whether you’re following a famous long-distance trail or exploring a lesser-known route, traveling on foot offers a deeper connection to the places you pass through.

Why Walking Reveals a Side of the UK Most Travelers Miss

The UK is full of extraordinary places, but many of them aren’t visible from the motorway or listed among the country’s biggest tourist attractions. Walking naturally takes you away from the obvious and into landscapes that feel more authentic and personal.

You begin to notice things that would otherwise pass unnoticed. A stone bridge hidden beneath woodland, a church that has stood for centuries, a flock of sheep moving across a hillside or the changing colors of the countryside throughout the day. Walking creates space for observation, and that often transforms a trip from a sightseeing exercise into something far more memorable.

Perhaps more importantly, walking encourages curiosity. There’s no rush to reach the next destination. Instead, you have time to stop, explore and appreciate the journey itself. That slower pace is often what people remember most.

The Best Walking Holidays in the UK for First-Time Walkers

If you’re new to walking holidays, starting with the right route can make all the difference. Fortunately, the UK offers several trails that provide rewarding experiences without feeling overwhelming.

Hadrian’s Wall Path

Hadrian’s Wall Path is one of the country’s most iconic long-distance routes, stretching from coast to coast across northern England. The trail combines beautiful countryside with fascinating Roman history, creating a journey that feels both scenic and culturally rich. Walking alongside the remains of one of the Roman Empire’s most ambitious engineering projects adds a unique dimension to every stage of the route.

For first-time walkers, it offers an excellent balance of challenge and accessibility. The terrain varies throughout the walk, but it remains manageable for those with a reasonable level of fitness and a sense of adventure.

South Downs Way

The South Downs Way provides a gentler introduction to long-distance walking. Rolling hills, picturesque villages and expansive views make it one of England’s most enjoyable walking routes.

 The trail’s relatively straightforward terrain allows walkers to focus on the scenery rather than constantly watching their footing. It’s also a wonderful example of how walking can reveal the quieter side of southern England, far removed from the busy towns and cities nearby.

The Best Walking Holidays in the UK for Coastal Scenery

Britain’s coastline is one of its greatest assets, and walking offers one of the best ways to experience it. Coastal paths reveal dramatic landscapes that are impossible to appreciate fully from a car or viewpoint.

South West Coast Path

Stretching for over 600 miles, the South West Coast Path is England’s longest national trail and arguably one of its most spectacular. The route winds through Cornwall, Devon, Dorset and Somerset, showcasing towering cliffs, secluded coves, sandy beaches and charming fishing villages.

Every day feels different. One moment you’re walking high above crashing waves, and the next you’re descending into a harbor where fresh seafood and a well-earned cup of tea await. The sea is rarely out of sight, and neither is the temptation to stop for yet another photograph.

Pembrokeshire Coast Path

Wales offers its own coastal masterpiece in the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. This route combines dramatic scenery with abundant wildlife, including seabirds, seals and, if you’re lucky, dolphins.

Compared with some of the UK’s better-known walking trails, Pembrokeshire often feels quieter and less crowded. That sense of space only adds to its appeal, allowing walkers to immerse themselves in the landscape without distraction.

The Best Walking Holidays in the UK for Mountain and Highland Views

For those who enjoy bigger landscapes and a stronger sense of adventure, Scotland’s walking routes offer some of the most rewarding experiences in the country.

West Highland Way

The West Highland Way is Scotland’s most famous long-distance trail, and for good reason. Beginning near Glasgow and heading north into the Highlands, the route passes lochs, mountains and some of Scotland’s most iconic scenery.

There’s a growing sense of wilderness as the walk progresses. The landscapes become more dramatic, the settlements more remote and the feeling of escape more complete. It’s a route that frequently exceeds expectations, even for experienced walkers.

Great Glen Way

The Great Glen Way provides another excellent Highland experience while remaining slightly more accessible. Following a route between Fort William and Inverness, it passes through a spectacular valley that includes Loch Ness and a succession of smaller lochs.

The scenery is impressive throughout, yet the trail remains approachable for a wide range of walkers. It offers a perfect introduction to the beauty of the Scottish Highlands without requiring advanced hiking experience.

The Best Walking Holidays in the UK for Classic Countryside Charm

Sometimes, the most rewarding walking holidays aren’t about dramatic mountains or rugged coastlines. Instead, they’re about discovering landscapes that feel quintessentially British.

Cotswold Way

The Cotswold Way showcases one of England’s most beloved regions. Honey-colored villages, rolling hills and peaceful countryside create a setting that feels almost timeless.

Walking through the Cotswolds allows travelers to experience the region at a much gentler pace. Instead of driving from village to village, you move through the landscape naturally, appreciating how each community fits into the wider countryside.

Yorkshire Wolds Way

The Yorkshire Wolds Way remains one of England’s most underrated national trails. It lacks the fame of some better-known routes, but that’s part of its charm.

Quiet valleys, open farmland and a strong sense of tranquility make it ideal for walkers seeking space and solitude. It’s proof that some of the UK’s most rewarding landscapes aren’t necessarily the most famous.

Why Villages Become Part of the Adventure

One of the unexpected joys of a walking holiday is the way villages become integral to the journey. They’re no longer quick stops for fuel or refreshments but destinations in their own right.

A village pub becomes a welcome place to rest after a long day and sample traditional British cuisine. A local café provides an opportunity to chat with residents and fellow walkers. Small independent shops, historic churches and community events offer glimpses into local life that many travelers would otherwise miss.

These encounters often become some of the most memorable parts of the trip. Long after the exact mileage has been forgotten, people remember the friendly conversation, the excellent meal or the hidden village they discovered along the way.

What Walking Teaches You About the Landscape

Walking has a remarkable way of helping you understand a landscape. Distances feel different when you cover them on foot. Hills appear larger, rivers feel more significant, and geographical features begin to make sense in relation to one another.

You also notice how landscapes change gradually. The transition from farmland to woodland, from moorland to coastline or from valley to upland becomes part of the experience. These subtle shifts are often invisible when traveling by car, but they become fascinating when experienced step by step. 

In many ways, walking provides context. It helps travelers understand not just where places are, but how they connect.

Practical Tips for Your First Walking Holiday

Preparation can significantly improve your experience, particularly if you’re new to long-distance walking. One of the most important decisions is choosing a route that matches your fitness level. Starting with a manageable trail is far more enjoyable than attempting something overly ambitious.

Comfortable footwear is equally important. A good pair of walking boots or shoes can make the difference between a rewarding holiday and several days of discomfort. Packing lightly also helps. Many first-time walkers carry far more than they need, only to regret it after a few hours on the trail.

Finally, be realistic about daily distances. Walking 10 miles through rolling countryside feels very different from walking 10 miles through a city. Build flexibility into your itinerary and allow time to enjoy the journey rather than simply completing it.

Common Mistakes First-Time Walkers Make

Perhaps the most common mistake is trying to do too much too quickly. Enthusiasm is wonderful, but overly ambitious daily targets can turn an enjoyable holiday into an exhausting challenge.

Another frequent error is packing for every possible scenario. The temptation to bring extra clothing, gadgets and supplies is understandable, but every additional item feels heavier as the day progresses. Most experienced walkers eventually learn that less is usually more.

And then there’s the weather. British weather has a personality all its own. It can provide sunshine, wind and rain within the same afternoon. Accepting that reality — and packing accordingly — is an important part of the adventure.

Why Walking Holidays Create Stronger Travel Memories

There’s something uniquely satisfying about reaching a destination under your own steam. The sense of achievement is real, but it’s only part of the appeal. Walking holidays also create a deeper connection to the places you visit.

You notice more. You engage more. You remember more. The landscape becomes something you experience rather than simply observe. Even ordinary moments feel more significant because you have taken the time to appreciate them.

That’s why walking holidays often leave such a lasting impression. They encourage a different style of travel — one that values experience over speed and connection over convenience.

Slow Down and See More

The UK is packed with remarkable landscapes, fascinating history and characterful communities. But many of its most rewarding experiences reveal themselves slowly. Walking creates opportunities to discover places and perspectives that are easy to miss when traveling at speed.

Whether you’re exploring the Roman history of Hadrian’s Wall, the dramatic cliffs of Cornwall, the Highlands of Scotland or the villages of the Cotswolds, traveling on foot changes the way you experience a destination. You may not cover as much ground, but you’ll often gain something far more valuable: a deeper understanding of the places you visit and memories that stay with you long after the journey ends. –Kyle Mirage

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A Taste of Rosemary in Marrakech, an Art-Filled Boutique Riad

Discover Riad Rosemary Marrakech, Laurence Leenaert’s LRNCE-designed boutique riad near the Mellah, filled with hand-crafted ceramics and textiles.

The rooftop terrace features whimsical wrought iron Helios chairs and a tiled table adapted from one of Laurence Leenaert’s drawings.

When Wally and I began thinking about where to travel next, we found ourselves drawn back to Marrakech, the Red City, named for the salmon-colored rammed earth walls enclosing its maze of alleys, their blank façades broken only by wooden doors that suggest another world hidden just beyond them. We had visited in 2012 with our friend Vanessa and were curious to see how the city had changed and what remained from our previous trip.

On that visit, we had a digital camera, and after a three-day journey that included an overnight stay among the shifting sands of the Sahara, we discovered the memory card was “frite” (fried) and beyond repair. So the prospect of returning to a place that held such wonderful memories for a full week this time, was impossible to resist. 

The courtyard is the heart of the riad, anchored by a magnificent 40-year-old jacaranda tree and home to the salon d’été, wavy terrazzo tiles, plunge pool, LRNCE boutique and living room.

Like Alice in Wonderland, I enjoy falling down the rabbithole, gathering sites for us to see as well as finding the perfect place to call home during our stay. This was how I discovered Rosemary, an intimate five-bedroom boutique riad built around a courtyard and interior garden, tucked into the quiet residential neighborhood of Riad Zitoun Jdid. 

On the map, it sits in one of the oldest quarters of the southern medina, a stone’s throw from Bahia Palace and within walking distance of the souks and other sites we wanted to explore. 

Leenaert and her husband, Ayoub Boualam, worked with dozens of craftsmen and women from Morocco to rework the interiors with bespoke furnishings and finishes, including zelije tiles and tadelakt, a natural lime-based plaster.

The riad was the former home of Rose-Marie, who happened to cross paths with Belgian artist and designer Laurence Leenaert and her husband and business partner, Ayoub Boualam, at their studio in Sidi Ghanem, an industrial area just outside Marrakech. She was looking to sell, and once the couple toured the space, its faded grandeur made the decision an easy one, and a logical next step in the brand’s evolution.

Leenaert is the founder of the lifestyle brand LRNCE, launched in 2013 and based in Marrakech, where she arrived with little more than a sewing machine and a few hundred euros. She originally specialized in small leather bags before evolving into an internationally recognized label known for its hand-painted ceramics, woven rugs, textiles, clothing and objects deeply rooted in Marrakech’s craft traditions.

Rosemary is a living extension of LRNCE’s aesthetic universe, immersing guests in Leenaert’s creative world rather than simply offering a glimpse of it.

Arriving at Rosemary 

We remembered how easy it was to get lost in the medina, and while that’s part of the fun, we didn’t want to stress over being dropped at the edge of a narrow street and rolling our suitcases down it while navigating pedestrians, donkey carts and weaving mopeds. To avoid this, I prearranged pickup. We were met at the airport and transported to a dropoff point on Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid. There, one of Rosemary’s accommodating hosts welcomed us, took our bags, and led us down to 25 Rue de la Bahia.

Among the countless handcrafted details, sandstone has been fashioned into sculptural objects, including a chair, pedestal and table base, for the salon d’été.

We were seated at a banquette in the cozy salon d’été (summer salon) in the tranquil central courtyard shaded by a majestic jacaranda tree, and served mint tea and slices of housemade banana bread while we completed check-in. 

Afterward, we were shown our room and given a tour. During our stay, the riad was hosting an event on the rooftop to promote the collaboration between LRNCE and Australian resort wear brand Alémais, and guests could also participate in craft events, including an intimate textile workshop the day before we departed. 

The Clemande suite features a queen-sized bed, built-in shelving filled with hand-painted ceramics and found objects, including a goatskin lampshade.

The Rooms at Rosemary

I had booked the Cocoon suite on the second floor, which overlooks the central courtyard. In-room amenities include wifi, a preloaded iPad complete with a chill rooftop mix, a Sonos portable Bluetooth speaker and shelves lined with art books, along with a queen-sized bed, a bathroom with a stained glass window, a built-in bench with hand-embroidered throw pillows and a handcarved cedarwood sideboard with a marble top. 

The Cocoon suite lives up to its name — a perfect retreat after a day spent haggling in the souks.

The Cocoon suite features a custom stained glass panel, sculptural lighting and a cozy bedroom.

A couple of days later, we were graciously upgraded to the Clemande suite and could hardly believe we had our very own private balcony. We spent most afternoons soaking our feet in the cool water of the plunge pool or relaxing up there. 

A large painting of two octopuses by Belgian artist Lieven Deconinck hangs above the plunge pool where Duke and Wally spent many afternoons relaxing and soaking our tired feet. 

The suite features a queen-size bed, built-in geometric shelving lined with art books, hand-painted ceramics and found objects, including a goatskin lampshade, plus a bathroom with a marble soaking tub and a striking tile mural painted by Leenaert.

The Clemande suite features a marble bathtub and hand-painted tile mural by Leenaertart.

And can we take a moment to talk about their toiletries? The hand soap, body wash, shampoo and silky body lotion are all scented with notes of neroli orange, rosemary and cedar atlas. We ended up buying some to take home.

The onsite boutique carries hand-painted ceramics, embroidered bed linens, toiletries and apparel.

The LRNCE Vision

Laurence and Ayoub’s vision respects the building’s pedigree, and the results are anything but typical. The property had previously been renovated by Belgian architect Quentin Wilbaux, who has spent decades documenting and restoring traditional riads throughout the medina and is widely regarded as one of the leading authorities on its architecture. The couple oversaw every aspect of the intensive three-year renovation, and collaborated with more than a few dozen maâlems, or master craftsmen, drawn from across Morocco’s specialized trades: stained-glass artisans from Meknès, potters from Safi, zellige tilemakers from Fès, marble vendors from Rabat, and a crew of local Marrakchi carpenters, metalworkers and plasterers who handled the riad’s finishes. 

The hotel’s name is a nod to its previous owner as well as the herb used to perfume its in-house hammam.

Hand-painted plates by LRNCE and a vintage brass cobra sconce we coveted, found at the Bab el Khemis flea market

Each detail, from the spontaneous hand-drawn lines etched into the columns framing the plunge pool to the wrought iron door handles and red marble lozenges meticulously set into the staircase, contributes to a space that pulls you fully into Leenaert’s creative world. Her own works are complemented by vintage fixtures and furnishings sourced from their travels. Wally and I were obsessed with the vintage brass cobra wall sconces found throughout, and later learned they came from a seller at the Bab el Khemis flea market.

Located off the courtyard, the living room features built-in banquette, vintage furniture, and tiered shelves lined with art books, ceramics and objects by LRNCE. 

Staying at Rosemary 

Breakfast is served on the sun-drenched rooftop terrace, which is dotted with LRNCE designed tables, whimsical wrought iron chairs and sunloungers. The spread includes homemade yogurt, amlou (almond spread), honey, preserves, sticky date and sesame energy balls, mesemmen (semi-leavened bread), baghir (Moroccan semolina pancakes) and eggs made to order, served from terracotta tagines. The freshly squeezed orange juice is exceptional, as is the nous nous (“half-half” in Darija, Moroccan Arabic), a local café staple made with equal parts espresso and steamed milk.

The kitchen features hand-painted plates by Leenaert and mashrabiya-style cabinet doors.

Rosemary felt less like staying at a hotel and more like being welcomed into a dear friend’s home. The warmth and generosity of everyone who took care of us will not soon be forgotten. Once you check in, you may never want to leave. 

An ornate traditional wrought iron grille looks out upon the interior courtyard.

If you happen to fall in love with the hand-crafted ceramics, linens, rugs or toiletries during your stay — and you will — the onsite LRNCE shop makes it easy to take a bit of Rosemary home with you. –Duke

The hand-carved cedarwood front door was adapted from Leenaert’s sketches, one of the first pieces created for Rosemary, and took over four months to complete.

Riad Rosemary

25 Rue de la Bahia
Marrakech 40000
Morocco

 

Dreamiest Sunsets in Italy and Spain: Top Spots for Romantic Views

Looking for the best sunsets in Italy and Spain? From Venice and Positano to Granada and Ronda, these romantic views are worth planning a trip around.

Some places seem to have been built specifically for sunsets.

Maybe it’s a fishing village tumbling down a cliff. Maybe it’s a medieval city glowing above a river. Maybe it’s Venice, where the sky and water can’t seem to decide which one is reflecting the other.

Whatever the reason, Italy and Spain have mastered the art of golden hour. If you’re willing to linger a little longer before dinner, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most memorable views in Europe.

Positano: Cliff, Color and the Tyrrhenian Light

Positano looks like someone dropped a handful of pastel houses onto the side of a cliff and, against all odds, they landed perfectly. As the afternoon sun begins to soften, the terracotta roofs, lemon-yellow walls and pale pink façades seem to glow from within. That’s why so many people take a road trip along the Amalfi Coast.

For the classic view, head to Fornillo Beach at the western end of town and look back toward the dome of the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta. Better yet, admire it from the water, where the entire village rises dramatically above the sea in one unforgettable panorama.

Toledo: The Skyline That Time Forgot

Some skylines change. Toledo’s simply refuses.

Perched above a bend in the Tagus River about an hour south of Madrid, the city still presents one of Europe’s most complete medieval silhouettes. From the Mirador del Valle, the cathedral, Alcázar fortress and ancient skyline appear almost exactly as travelers would have seen them centuries ago.

Come during the hour before sunset when warm western light turns the stone golden. Better yet, spend the night. Once the day-trippers leave, Toledo takes on an entirely different personality beneath the evening lights.

One of the best things about exploring Spain is how easily you can move between completely different landscapes. The Madrid to Barcelona train connects the country’s capital with the Mediterranean in around two and a half hours, making it simple to build an itinerary that includes Toledo’s golden medieval skyline before trading it for Barcelona’s seaside sunsets.

Ronda: Spain’s Dramatic Balcony

Ronda doesn’t just overlook a gorge—it literally hangs over it.

The famous Puente Nuevo stretches across a 120-meter chasm, creating one of Andalusia’s most dramatic landscapes. During the day you can explore churches like Santa María la Mayor and do an olive oil tasting at LA Organic.

But as sunset approaches, the changing light fills the gorge below while the surrounding mountains slowly fade from gold to purple.

For the best overall perspective, wander through the Alameda del Tajo gardens. Grab a drink at the cliffside café and watch one of Spain’s most spectacular sunsets unfold.

Venice: Where the Water Steals the Show

Everyone has seen photographs of Venice. Or they’ve seen its beauty in movies like Casino Royale.

The annoying thing is that it’s all true.

Few arrivals can compete with Venice. The Rome to Venice train reaches Santa Lucia Station in about three and a half hours, and instead of stepping into another busy city, you’re transported into one where the streets are canals. Hop on a vaporetto, watch centuries-old palaces drift by at water level and let Venice introduce itself the way it was meant to: slowly, from the water.

For sunset, make your way to Punta della Dogana, where the Grand Canal opens into the Giudecca Canal. As the sky changes color, Venice becomes a city of reflections. The churches, palaces and canals seem to shimmer from every direction, making it easy to understand why generations of artists never stopped painting it.

Civita di Bagnoregio: Italy’s Hidden Showstopper

People love calling Civita di Bagnoregio “the Italian Santorini,” but honestly, it doesn’t need the comparison.

Perched atop an eroding tufa cliff and connected to the outside world by a single pedestrian bridge, this tiny village feels almost suspended in time. With only a handful of permanent residents, it remains one of central Italy’s most extraordinary hidden gems.

For the iconic view, head to the opposite side of the valley just before sunset. In spring or early fall, the fading light transforms the cliffs from pale stone into glowing amber.

Cinque Terre: Five Villages, Endless Golden Hour

If your perfect evening involves colorful fishing villages, cliffside vineyards and a glass of wine, Cinque Terre rarely disappoints.

Because the villages face southwest, the sun lingers over the Ligurian Sea before finally dipping below the horizon. One of the best viewpoints is Punta Bonfiglio above Manarola, where locals often gather to watch the day’s final act.

If you’re feeling energetic, hike between Vernazza and Monterosso in the late afternoon. The changing coastal light makes the entire walk feel like one long sunset.

Granada: The Alhambra’s Best Performance

The Alhambra is impressive at any hour.

But sunset is when it really shows off.

From the Mirador de San Nicolás in the Albaicín, the palace glows against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada. Arrive a little early, settle in and watch the colors shift from warm gold to deep blue as evening settles over Granada.

Street musicians often fill the square with flamenco guitar, adding a soundtrack that somehow makes the entire experience feel even more cinematic.

The Best Part? Sunsets Cost Nothing

The beauty of chasing sunsets is that, unlike just about everything else on vacation, they’re completely free.

Italy and Spain have been putting on this same performance every evening for centuries. The castles, villages and coastlines simply happen to have the best seats in the house.

So don’t rush to your dinner reservation. Stay for one more minute. Then another.

The sunset is worth the wait. –Brayden Sterling

Working Abroad or On the Move: What Can Go Wrong?

Digital nomad safety starts with protecting your data, devices and productivity while working from anywhere.

Work and travel mix well in the modern world — and it’s easier than ever to be financially independent as a digital nomad. Being productive without ever setting foot in an office has finally become normalized. Meanwhile, service-based tools make it easy to do complex tasks or communicate with colleagues from anywhere using just a basic laptop and smartphone.

Here’s what no one tells you about the digital nomad lifestyle, though. Greater accessibility comes with its own risks. Some are travel-related, while others can start to grate on you after you’ve been hopping from country to country for a while. This article covers the most common real-world threats you may come across, their impact on your productivity, and effective strategies for sidestepping the danger.

Common Digital Nomad Risks and Remote Work Security Threats

Unsafe Wi-Fi

Fast and stable internet is non-negotiable for online work. Luckily, you get to access it as soon as you land, from your Airbnb or hotel, and from any self-respecting local venue. The Wi-Fi they offer is legitimate, but can also serve as cover for malicious attacks.

Connecting to a fake hotspot gives its operator a lot of leverage. They can intercept any unsecured data you transmit, capture session cookies, or redirect you to harmful websites. Apart from that last one, you won’t even notice the attack until you get locked out of accounts. Even if you use two-factor authentication, having to reset passwords or clue IT in about a possible threat can cut into work time (and lead to more cybersecurity training).

Device Theft

Having your laptop or phone stolen is the cruelest and most effective way of disrupting your workday. Finding the device is unlikely, and replacing it will take time even in a first-world metropolis.

If you were careless enough to leave the device open, the thief may now have access to open accounts, company secrets, and your personal information. If they’re enterprising, they might use this info to commit identity theft or start scamming your business and personal contacts — even from a locked phone!

Account recovery also gets trickier since losing your phone means losing your main means of authentication. Tech-savvy thieves can reset account credentials and misuse stored authentication measures, locking you out permanently.

Geo Restrictions

Sometimes policies designed to protect users can work against you. Let’s say you’re a digital nomad who arrived in Colombia after having spent the last couple of months in Italy. You log into a payment app to cover a meal, only for it to lock you out because the location difference and unusual login triggered a safeguard.

Depending on what exactly you lose access to, the consequences range from mild inconveniences to lockouts it can take days to sort out.

Decision Fatigue

Working on the go means never running on autopilot. You constantly have to be aware of where you’re staying, nearby coworking options, transportation, etc. And that’s without accounting for work-specific challenges and the expectation of maintaining productivity.

All of this inevitably takes its toll. Slip-ups might start small, like taking longer to complete project milestones. If not addressed, soon enough you’ll be sending files to the wrong coworkers or skipping security steps in place to protect both you and clients. Given enough time, sloppy mistakes might cause your credibility to tank.

Remote Work Security Best Practices for Travelers

What can you do about these threats? Staying safe and productive means using the right tools and strategies to protect your physical and digital safety as well as your mental health.

Connect safely through VPNs.

Public Wi-Fi is too useful to ignore when your livelihood depends on it. Your best bet is to mitigate the danger with a VPN since they’ll encrypt the connection and make it considerably harder for snoops to obtain your data or track your online whereabouts. They’re also a convenient fix for location-based false alerts since IP masking lets you present as working from your home country while traveling.

Maybe you’re renting a laptop in a coworking space and can’t install a full VPN program. Or you only need it for specific tasks like checking marketing dashboards in different regions. VPN extensions for Chrome or another browser are the lightweight apps you should choose.

Help ensure physical security.

Always keep an eye on your devices and don’t leave them out in the open when they aren’t in use. Laptops can also be physically tethered to tables, etc., making them much harder to steal.

Make sure to encrypt the contents of your drives and lock all devices with biometrics. This minimizes the potential fallout even if someone steals it from you.

Beat decision fatigue with standardization.

Save the diversity inherent to the digital nomad lifestyle for after hours. While you’re working, wherever that may currently be, strive to create a digital and physical environment that changes as little as possible.

This can mean different things, from creating and sticking to core workflows and business tools to always staying in the same type of accommodations. The idea is to offload most of the micro-decisions you make when traveling so you can focus on meaningful work instead of stressing over details. –Beatrice Whitmore

Key Takeaways

• Connecting to public or unsecured Wi-Fi networks can allow cybercriminals to intercept your data. Using the best VPN for Android or iOS is crucial for encrypting your connection.

• The theft of a work device can lead to significant downtime and potential data breaches, highlighting the need for physical security measures and full-drive encryption.

• The constant decision-making required by travel can lead to decision fatigue and costly mistakes, which can be avoided by standardizing your work environment and routines.

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RELATED: Bookkeeping and Budgeting as a Digital Nomad 

Svalbard vs. Antarctica: Which Polar Adventure Belongs on Your Bucket List?

From polar bears and Arctic fjords to penguins and towering icebergs, discover the key differences between Svalbard and Antarctica travel. 

Some trips are easy to explain.

A beach week. A city break. A long weekend somewhere warm.

A polar trip is different.

It’s harder to put into words because it isn’t only about where you go. It’s about what happens to you when you get there. The air feels sharper. The sky seems too big. The silence has a kind of weight to it. You notice your own footsteps. You notice the wind. You notice how small you are — but not in a bad way. Winter wilderness travel is intense and mindblowing.

Maybe that’s the real pull of places like Svalbard and Antarctica. They remind you that the world is enormous.

“Svalbard shows you how humans live near the edge.

Antarctica reminds you that the edge might be too extreme for humans.”

Both destinations sit close to the edge of the map. Both give you ice, wildlife, long horizons and that strange feeling of being far away from your ordinary life. But they aren’t the same trip. Not at all.

Svalbard is in the Arctic. It sits north of mainland Norway, deep in polar bear country, with fjords, glaciers, tundra, old mining history and a small but real community in Longyearbyen. Antarctica is the other end of the planet. It’s a continent of ice, penguins, research stations, wild seas and a kind of silence that feels almost untouched.

So, which one belongs on your bucket list? It depends on what kind of wonder you want to come home with.

Svalbard Feels Remote But Not Unreachable

Svalbard has this odd, beautiful mix of wildness and daily life. You can land in Longyearbyen, check into a hotel, order coffee and still be very aware that you are in one of the northernmost inhabited places on Earth. There are streets and shops and guides loading gear. There are people walking home from work. And beyond all that, there are mountains, ice, cold water and animals that don’t care about your travel plans.

That contrast gives Svalbard its character. It doesn’t feel staged. It feels lived in.

You can sense that people have had to adapt here. The weather decides things. The light decides things. The seasons aren’t background details; they shape everything. Even before you board a ship or head deeper into the wilderness, you can feel that this place has its own rules.

And honestly, that makes it more interesting.

In summer, the midnight sun changes the whole rhythm of travel. The sky stays bright when your body expects darkness. You may look outside at midnight and see soft light sitting over the fjord, as if the day simply forgot to end.

It’s strange at first. Then it becomes wonderful.

You stop checking the time so much. You stop waiting for evening to close things down. The day stretches out in a way that feels loose and generous. If you’re used to a life of alarms, calendars and constant little deadlines, that can feel almost like a relief.

The Arctic Has Its Own Kind of Tension

For many people, Svalbard starts with one dream: a polar bear. Not behind glass. Not in a documentary. A real one, somewhere out on the ice or moving along a distant shore. Of course, no responsible trip can promise that. Wildlife is wildlife. It appears when it appears. Sometimes it doesn’t.

But the possibility changes the way you look. You scan ridges differently. You watch the shoreline. You listen when guides point out tracks or movement. There’s a quiet tension in it, but it’s not fear exactly. It’s respect.

And you feel that respect in your body.

Svalbard isn’t only about polar bears, though. Walruses may be hauled out together in heavy, noisy groups. Arctic foxes can flash across the ground. Reindeer graze in places that look too sparse to support anything. Seals rest near ice. Whales surface and disappear before you fully process what you saw. Seabirds crowd cliffs and fill the air with sound.

It’s not a single big moment. It’s a collection of small ones. That’s part of Svalbard’s charm. You have to pay attention.

For travelers comparing ships, routes and comfort levels, looking closely at the full Arctic cruise price can make the planning feel less vague. In Svalbard, the details matter. The vessel, the guides, the itinerary, the pace of each day and the way the crew approaches the environment all shape what the trip becomes.

Because you’re not just going there to look at ice. You're going there to experience the landscape, not simply observe it.

Antarctica Feels Farther Than Far

Just saying you are going to Antarctica feels serious. It’s not a casual destination. You don’t tack it onto another trip as an afterthought. Most people have to plan for it, save for it, think about it and then commit. That commitment becomes part of the experience.

Many travelers reach Antarctica by sailing from Ushuaia, Argentina, across the Drake Passage. And yes, the Drake has a reputation. Some crossings are calm. Some are rough. Some make you question your life choices for a day and then reward you with a horizon full of ice.

That’s the thing about Antarctica. It makes you earn the arrival.

And when the ice finally appears, it doesn’t feel like normal scenery. It feels like the world has changed materials. Icebergs rise out of the water like towers, walls, broken sculptures or pieces of some huge unfinished building. The colors are simple, but they aren’t plain. Blue, white, gray, black, silver. Sometimes a little gold when the light shifts.

You may find yourself standing on deck and saying nothing. Not because you’re bored. Because the place is bigger than your reaction to it.

Penguins Make Antarctica Feel Alive

From far away, Antarctica can sound empty. Ice, wind, ocean, silence.

But then there are penguins. And penguins change everything.

They bring noise, movement, awkwardness, determination and a delightful amount of personality. They slip, shuffle, call, argue, gather, wander and somehow make one of the most extreme places on Earth feel full of life.

There’s something oddly touching about watching them. Maybe it’s because they look so small against the scale of the place. Maybe it’s because they keep going, even when the ground is rough, and the weather isn’t kind. Or maybe we just recognize something familiar in their busyness.

That sounds a little sentimental, I know. But Antarctica does that. It catches people off guard.

You may also see seals resting on ice, whales surfacing near the ship, and seabirds moving through hard wind as if the air belongs to them. In the right season, Antarctica can feel almost crowded with life, even though the landscape itself remains vast and severe.

It’s a strange combination. Harsh and tender at the same time.

What Wildlife Are You Really Hoping For?

This might be the simplest question. 

If your dream is polar bears, choose Svalbard. The Arctic is their home, and even the chance of seeing one responsibly, from a safe distance, brings a kind of electricity to the trip.

If your dream is penguins, choose Antarctica. Penguins don’t live in the Arctic, and polar bears don’t live in Antarctica. That one fact clears away a lot of confusion.

But the answer isn’t always logical. Sometimes you already know. Maybe you’ve pictured a bear moving across sea ice since you were a kid. Maybe you've imagined penguins gathered below blue-white mountains for years. That one image matters.

Travel planning often looks practical from the outside. Dates, routes, budgets, flights, gear. But underneath all that, there’s usually one feeling you’re trying to reach. Run with that.

Antarctica Is Bigger; Svalbard Is More Layered

If you want ice drama, Antarctica is hard to beat. The scale is almost unreasonable. Glaciers seem endless. Icebergs look carved. Mountains rise out of the cold in sharp black and white. The whole place feels stripped down to the basics of water, ice, rock and sky.

It can overwhelm you. In a good way.

Svalbard works differently. It does have glaciers and sea ice, but it also has tundra, fjords, beaches, dark mountains, old settlements and traces of human history. It doesn’t hit you with one single grand impression. It unfolds.

One day may feel gray and moody, with low cloud over the water. Another may feel bright and open, with birds moving across the sky and light lingering much too late. You might pass an old mining site and then, not long after, see a seal near a sheet of ice. The place keeps changing its tone.

Antarctica feels monumental.

Svalbard feels intimate.

That’s not a perfect rule, but it’s close enough.

Think About the Journey, Not Just the Destination

Svalbard is usually easier to fit into a shorter trip. Most travelers connect through Norway and fly into Longyearbyen. From there, the adventure can begin fairly quickly. You still feel remote, but you don’t usually need the same long sea crossing that defines many Antarctic itineraries.

That makes Svalbard a strong first polar trip for many people.

Antarctica asks for more time. More patience too. Here’s what to know before you plan an Antarctica trip. You need to reach the departure point, cross the Drake Passage, explore and cross back. There’s more travel wrapped around the travel.

For some people, that’s part of the magic. The distance makes Antarctica feel earned. The long approach gives the whole journey a sense of ceremony. For others, it may feel like too much. And that’s fine. Not every bucket list trip has to be the hardest version of itself.

Comfort Isn’t a Small Thing

People sometimes talk about polar travel as if comfort doesn’t matter. It does.

After hours in cold wind, a warm cabin matters. Dry socks matter. A good meal matters. A quiet place to sit with a cup of tea after seeing something extraordinary matters more than you might expect.

The right ship can change the whole experience. So can the right guides. You want people who know the place, respect it and help you notice what you might otherwise miss. 

You also want a pace that lets you actually absorb things. Because what’s the point of going that far if you’re too rushed or too uncomfortable to take it in?

Adventure doesn’t have to mean pretending you’re not tired. Sometimes the best part of the day is coming back cold, windblown and happy, then warming your hands around a mug while everyone quietly processes what they just saw. That’s part of the trip too.

So, Which Place Feels More Personal?

Svalbard often feels more personal because people live there. You can imagine daily life. Someone walking home under winter darkness. Someone stepping outside in summer when the sun is still up at 2 a.m. Someone checking the weather before making even a simple plan. The Arctic isn’t an idea there. It’s everyday reality. There’s something moving about that.

Antarctica feels less personal, but maybe more humbling. It doesn’t make room for ordinary human life in the same way. It doesn’t feel designed around us. That can be uncomfortable at first, then strangely peaceful.

Svalbard shows you how humans live near the edge.

Antarctica reminds you that the edge might be too extreme for humans.

Both lessons stay with you, just in different ways.

Which Polar Adventure Belongs on Your Bucket List?

Choose Svalbard if you want polar bears, Arctic wildlife, fjords, tundra, settlement history and a trip that feels remote without feeling completely disconnected from human life. It’s varied, atmospheric and easier to imagine as a first polar adventure.

Choose Antarctica if you want penguins, huge ice, the seventh continent, and the deep satisfaction of reaching one of the most remote places on Earth. It’s bigger, farther, more demanding and probably more dramatic from start to finish.

The honest answer is that both are worthy.

But if you’re choosing one, start with the image that stays with you. Is it a polar bear under the endless Arctic light? Penguins moving across ice at the bottom of the world? A quiet fjord near midnight? A blue iceberg rising out of dark water?

One of those scenes probably pulls harder than the others. Follow that.

Because in the end, you’re not only choosing between Svalbard and Antarctica. You’re choosing the kind of awe you want to carry home. –Brenda Wanjiku

Iberia With Kids: Unforgettable Family Destinations You Can’t Miss

Planning a family trip to Spain and Portugal? Discover the best kid-friendly destinations in Iberia, from Barcelona and Valencia to Lisbon, Porto and Seville, with practical tips for stress-free family travel.

Traveling with children on the Iberian Peninsula involves a recalibration that most parents figure out within the first couple of days. Spain and Portugal are deeply family-friendly, not because every attraction caters to children but because children are welcomed into everyday life. Families gather in plazas after sunset, children join restaurant meals and multiple generations often share the same table.

You don’t have to embrace 9 p.m. dinners to benefit from the culture. The real adjustment is recognizing that children are expected to be present, included and engaged. Once you lean into that mindset, the trip often becomes easier for everyone.

Barcelona: Walkable Neighborhoods and Kid-Friendly Adventures 

One of the advantages of Barcelona for families is structural — the city has enough variety within walking distance of most central neighborhoods that a bad afternoon doesn’t require a car journey to fix. 

The beaches at Barceloneta are 15 minutes by metro from the Gothic Quarter, and the water is calm enough in summer for children who are confident swimmers. 

The playgrounds along the Passeig Marítim are well equipped and shaded in the morning. 

Even sightseeing can feel like playtime: Antoni Gaudí’s whimsical buildings, from the colorful mosaics of Park Güell to the fantastical towers of Sagrada Família, will capture your children’s imaginations. 

The Barcelona to Valencia train on the Euromed service takes around three hours and 20 minutes along the Mediterranean coast, and the journey is manageable with children. The seats are wide, the café car sells snacks, and the coastal stretches through the Castellón countryside give enough visual interest to carry the middle section. Booking two facing seats with a table between them (the paired configurations available on most long-distance Spanish trains) makes the journey considerably more civilized with young children who need somewhere to spread out. 

Valencia: Where the River Became a Park

The Turia Gardens running through the center of Valencia are one of the more remarkable urban planning decisions in Europe: After the catastrophic Turia flood of 1957, the river was diverted south of the city and the old riverbed — five and a half miles (nine kilometers) of it — was converted into a continuous park that now connects the historic center to the sea. 

Children navigate it by bicycle, rollerskate or foot. The park has playgrounds distributed along its length, a bioparc at the western end, and the Gulliver playground near the eastern section — a 230-foot (70-meter) reclining figure of the fictional giant with slides running down his limbs, an attraction children describe years afterward.

The Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias at the eastern end of the Turia Gardens is where families tend to concentrate, and the Museo de las Ciencias Príncipe Felipe, an interactive science museum, and the L’Oceanogràfic, Europe’s largest aquarium, are both standout attractions, offering substance as well as scale.

Lisbon: Hills, Trams and the Age of Discovery

Lisbon with children is primarily a question of logistics. The city’s hills and cobblestoned streets are beautiful and genuinely hard going with a stroller or very small children who tire quickly. 

The solution most families arrive at is to use the historic trams (the 28E in particular, running through the Alfama and Chiado districts) as a form of transport that doubles as entertainment, and to concentrate activity in the flatter Belém district to the west, where the major child-friendly sites are accessible without significant climbing.

The train from Lisbon to Porto on the Alfa Pendular service takes around two hours and 50 minutes and is one of the more manageable long-distance rail journeys in Iberia with children. The trains are smooth and quiet, the seats comfortable, and the stations at both ends are central enough that no additional transfer is typically required before reaching your accommodation. 

For families combining both cities in a single trip, the train is the obvious spine of the itinerary; flying between cities this close together makes little sense in terms of total journey time once airport transfers are factored in, and the rail journey gives children the experience of moving through the country rather than skipping over it.

Porto: Compact, Walkable and Charming

Porto works for families partly because of its scale. The historic center is compact enough to cover on foot over two days and easy to navigate because the Douro River gives children a constant geographic reference point. 

The Ribeira waterfront is where most activity concentrates: The rabelo boats moored along the quay, the cable car crossing to Vila Nova de Gaia, and the boat trips up the Douro through the port wine country offer hours of low-effort sightseeing without requiring much planning. 

The cable car from the Ribeira to the Dom Luís I Bridge upper deck takes three minutes, and the view from the top is worth the wait. Combine it with a walk across the upper bridge deck and down the Gaia side.

The Serralves Foundation in the west of Porto has a contemporary art museum that’s less child-focused than some alternatives, but grounds its exhibitions in a park that’s excellent for families — 44.5 acres (18 hectares) of formal gardens, woodland and a farm area with animals accessible at the park’s perimeter. 

The park ticket is cheaper than the combined museum entry, and for families with children under 8, the park alone is sufficient to fill a morning. 

The Matosinhos seafood restaurants north of the park, reachable by metro from Serralves, are a food spot to eat lunch — fresh fish from the Atlantic grilled simply, at prices that make feeding a family manageable.

Seville: Flamenco, Horses and a Cool Palace

Seville can be one of the easiest cities in Spain for family travel, provided you work with the climate rather than against it. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 104 degrees Fahrenheit (40 degrees Celsius), making early mornings and evenings the best times for exploring. Plan major sightseeing before lunch, retreat indoors during the hottest hours of the afternoon and save parks, plazas and outdoor dining for later in the day.

Children who have had a proper midday rest are considerably better company for the evening paseo and the tapas bars than those who’ve been dragged through monuments in the afternoon heat.

The Real Alcázar is the family visit that most consistently works in Seville because the combination of the Mudéjar palace rooms, the Baroque gardens, and the Game of Thrones filming locations gives different members of the family reasons to be interested. The garden section in particular — with its pools, grottos and the Mercury Pond, named for the statue that overlooks it — gives children enough to explore that adults can linger over the architecture while the kids remain happily occupied.

The horse carriages that depart from the Puerta de Jerez for tours of the historic center aren’t the most morally defensible experience in Spain but are almost universally successful with young children.

How to Travel Spain and Portugal With Children

Iberia with children rewards the families who adjust to the local rhythm rather than imposing their own. The late evenings, the long lunches, and the cities that treat public space as genuinely shared between all ages make Spain and Portugal among the more welcoming destinations in Europe for family travel. 

Give each city three nights minimum, build in time for nothing in particular, and accept that the afternoon nap isn’t a failure of itinerary planning but the reason the evening works.