Frida Kahlo in Paris

André Breton lured Frida to be in a Surrealist show, but she found herself misled, miserable and mad as hell — until Mary Reynolds stepped in.

An exhibition at the Art Institute of Chicago covers Frida’s turbulent time in Paris in 1939.

Paris was supposed to be her big moment. But when Frida Kahlo landed in the so-called City of Light in 1939, all she found was a hospital bed, missing paintings, and a bunch of filthy Surrealists who couldn’t get their act together.

Thanks to an interesting  lecture by Alivé Piliado Santana, curatorial associate at the National Museum of Mexican Art (where we check out the Day of the Dead ofrendas every year) and Tamar Kharatishvili, research fellow in modern art at the Art Institute of Chicago, I’ve come away with a far deeper — and far juicier — understanding of this chapter of Frida’s life I didn’t previously know about.

“They are so damn ‘intellectual’ and rotten that I can’t stand them anymore .... I [would] rather sit on the floor in the market of Toluca and sell tortillas, than have anything to do with those ‘artistic’ bitches of Paris.”

— Frida Kahlo, writing about the Surrealists in a letter to her lover, Nikolas Muray

Wild child Frida in 1938

Here’s what I learned about the messy, maddening and frankly fascinating story of Frida’s Parisian misadventure, the forgotten women of Surrealism, and how a kindred spirit named Mary Reynolds helped turn Frida’s time in Paris into something meaningful. 

André Breton, leader of the Surrealists and organizer of the 1939 Mexique exhibition — though “organizer” might be generous, considering Frida arrived to find no gallery, no show, and her paintings stuck in customs.

Frida’s Disastrous Arrival in Paris

It all began with an invitation that felt like a breakthrough. André Breton — the self-appointed “pope of Surrealism” — had reached across the Atlantic with a tantalizing offer. Frida Kahlo’s paintings, he declared, belonged on the world stage. He wanted her to come to Paris for a major exhibition he was organizing called Mexique.

Frida was excited for a chance to showcase her work in the artistic capital of the world, among the greats. It felt like a turning point — a chance to step out from her hubby Diego Rivera’s shadow and claim her place in the international art scene.

But somewhere along the way, wires got crossed. Frida thought Mexique would be a solo show. 

It wasn’t.

Self-Portrait With Monkey, painted by Frida Kahlo, posing with one of her pets, in 1938 right before she left for Paris.

Frida prepared for the journey with cautious excitement. Before she left, photographer Nikolas Muray, with whom she was having a passionate affair, captured her in a series of now-iconic portraits: defiant, radiant and ready for her European closeup. 

She could never have predicted how quickly things would unravel.

The troubles began before she even set foot in Paris. Her paintings, packed carefully for the voyage, were held up in customs. Instead of gliding smoothly into galleries, they sat in bureaucratic limbo, tangled in red tape. But there was still hope. Surely, Breton — the grand architect of the Surrealist movement — would have everything else ready.

He didn’t.

Frida arrived in Paris only to find chaos. There wasn’t even a gallery chosen for her show. No opening date on the calendar. No buzz of anticipation. Breton had made grand promises — but had done nothing to deliver on them.

A portrait of Frida taken by Nikolas Muray before she left for Paris

A Hospital Stay

On top of the professional humiliation, Frida’s health collapsed. She hadn’t arrived in perfect shape to begin with — just before leaving Mexico, she had undergone spinal surgery to try to ease the constant pain from an earlier accident. The long journey, the cold Paris winter, the stress of a botched exhibition, and the miserable conditions she found herself in were a brutal combination.

Part of her fury stemmed from Breton’s own visit to Mexico, where she and Diego had opened their home (now the Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo House-Studio Museum) to him and his wife — only to find that in Paris, Breton offered no such hospitality in return.

Almost as soon as she arrived, Frida developed a raging kidney infection, with a spiking fever that landed her in the hospital. She was exhausted, furious and rapidly losing faith in the promises that had brought her to Paris in the first place. 

She pinned her illness squarely on the Surrealists’ squalor, convinced that their slovenly habits had done her in.

When she was discharged, still weak and recovering, she faced the grim reality of her accommodations: a dingy hotel, damp and depressing, in a city that felt far from the glamorous art capital she had imagined.

The final page of one of Frida’s letters to Muray. She didn’t exactly fall for Paris: “to hell with everything concerning Breton and all this lousy place,” she wrote, sick of the Surrealists and ready to go home.

She didn’t hold back. In a letter to Muray, she unloaded: “They are so damn ‘intellectual’ and rotten that I can’t stand them anymore .... I [would] rather sit on the floor in the market of Toluca and sell tortillas, than have anything to do with those ‘artistic’ bitches of Paris.” She thought the Surrealists were puffed up with self-importance yet utterly useless when it came to helping her. Only Marcel Duchamp, she noted acidly, “has his feet on the earth.” The rest, in her eyes, were pompous windbags throwing parties while her paintings languished in customs and her health deteriorated. And at the center of this mess, of course, was Breton himself, whose grand promises had led her straight into disaster.

What was meant to be her grand European debut had turned into a perfect storm of illness, neglect and bitter disappointment. She was stranded in Paris, her art trapped in customs, her patience wearing thin — and the Surrealists, led by Breton, had left her to flounder.

A photo booth pic of Mary Reynolds

Enter Mary Reynolds: An Unexpected Friendship

Just when Frida might have written off Paris entirely, in stepped Mary Reynolds — artist, bookmaker and all-around lifeline.

Unlike the aloof Surrealist men swanning around Paris, Reynolds opened her doors and, more importantly, her heart. Frida, still recovering from illness and spiraling frustration, moved out of her bleak hotel and into Reynolds’ home at 14 rue Hallé.

It wasn’t just a change of address — it was a change of atmosphere. Where Breton had offered chaos, Reynolds offered comfort. Her house in the southern part of Paris was a hub of creativity, conversation and, during the darkening shadow of World War II, quiet resistance.

Mary Reynolds with her partner, Marcel Duchamp

Mary Reynolds: The Unsung Hero of Surrealism

Reynolds deserves far more credit than she usually gets. A fiercely independent artist herself, Reynolds was a master of bookbinding — her works were collected by her partner, Marcel Duchamp (the guy who turned a urinal into modern art’s most notorious statement and further shocked audiences with Nude Descending a Staircase, No. 2), along with other avant-garde heavyweights of the time.

Reynolds took bookbinding to a whole new, surreal level: She used objects on the covers like kid gloves for Free Hands (Les Mains Libres), a thermometer in A Harsh Winter (Un Rude Hiver), and a teacup handle in Saint Glinglin — a nod to a scene where a character smashes plates with a golf club.

Reynolds was a genius when it came to bookbinding. Here’s the striking cover of Les mains libres (Free Hands) by Paul Éluard, with glove-like cutouts.

Her house was a living, breathing collage of Surrealist art and ideas. Duchamp, Alexander Calder and countless others had left their fingerprints — and actual works — all over her walls. 

For Frida, Reynolds’ home was proof some Surrealists weren’t all talk and no action. Here was a woman making her own art, supporting her peers, and backing it all up with real-world bravery.

A delightful drawing of Mary Reynolds and her cats by Alexander Calder, the American modern sculptor best known for his mobiles

Kahlo and Reynolds: Finding Solidarity

The connection between Frida and Reynolds was electric. Both women were navigating the male-dominated art world on their own terms, refusing to be footnotes in movements led by men.

Their bond also feels emblematic of something bigger: a reminder that amid all the philosophical posturing of Surrealism, real solidarity happened where women supported each other, shared ideas, and, frankly, kept the whole thing afloat.

In Frida’s letters, you can almost feel the tone shift once she moves into Reynolds’ home. It’s not quite relief — her Parisian experience remained fraught — but there’s a spark of light. Reynolds gave Frida what Breton could not: genuine human connection in a city that had otherwise let her down. She stayed at Reynolds from February 22 to March 25, 1939.

The Wounded Deer from 1946, painted after yet another failed surgery, this haunting self-portrait shows Frida as a deer riddled with arrows, calm-eyed in the face of relentless pain.

Frida and Surrealism: A Love-Hate Relationship

Here’s the irony: While the Surrealists were practically falling over themselves to claim Frida Kahlo as one of their own, Frida herself wanted nothing to do with the label.

Breton had famously declared her work “a ribbon around a bomb” — which, to be fair, is a great line. But Frida saw things differently. She didn’t consider herself a Surrealist at all. “I never painted dreams,” she once said. “I painted my own reality.”

Frida’s work, raw and visceral, didn’t need the Surrealist manifesto to explain it. Where the Surrealists dabbled in subconscious symbolism and found objects, Frida’s paintings were autobiographical to their core — her pain, her identity, her relationships all laid bare.

Self-Portrait With Cropped Hair from 1940. Freshly divorced, Frida depicts herself as wearing one of Diego’s suits, scissors in hand, her hair in clumps on the floor.

The Surrealists saw her as exotic, a muse from afar who fit their aesthetic fantasies. But Frida wasn’t interested in playing that role. She wasn’t a curiosity or a symbol — she was an artist, plain and simple. Her use of indigenous Mexican motifs, her explorations of physical and emotional suffering — these weren’t Surrealist exercises; they were her lived truth.

Still, despite her reluctance, Frida’s art undeniably aligned with many Surrealist themes. Dreams and reality intertwining, the use of found materials, the exploration of identity — it was all there, just coming from a much grittier, more personal place. 

And she did, after all, agree to be a part of a Surrealist show in Paris. Which, by the way, finally came together. It ran at the Galerie Renou et Colle from March 10 to 25, 1939. Frida’s take on her fellow Mexican artists that Breton chose to showcase with her work? In one of her letters to Muray, she described them as “all of this junk.”

Photographer Nikolas Muray and Frida Kahlo had a passionate affair, and he was her confidante during her bad experience in Paris.

Nikolas Muray: The Confidant Behind the Letters

Long before Paris turned into a disaster, Frida had another anchor: Nikolas Muray. Photographer, Olympic fencer (yes, really) and one of her many lovers, Muray was one of the few people Frida trusted enough to confide in during her Paris ordeal.

Her letters to him are the sharpest, funniest and most brutally honest accounts we have of her time in France. She wrote to Muray not just to update him, but to release steam — to unload her frustrations about the Surrealists, the filth of the city, her failing health, and her utter disappointment in Breton’s empty promises.

The Tree of Hope, Remain Strong, painted in 1946 after spinal surgery. This double self-portrait splits her in two: One body lies wounded on a hospital gurney, while the other sits upright, dressed and defiant, clutching a back brace.

What Happened After: A Brief, Blazing Connection

For all the depth and warmth of their connection in Paris, Frida and Reynolds’ friendship seems to have been brief. After that whirlwind winter of 1939, there’s no evidence they kept up correspondence. Aside from one endearing letter where Reynolds talks about how empty the house felt without Frida, there aren’t any further exchanges that we know of.

Life pulled the two women in different directions. Frida returned to Mexico, her health still fragile but her art beginning to gain traction. 

Reynolds, meanwhile, risked her life in the French Resistance. Her Paris home, once a haven for artists and thinkers, became a literal refuge for those fleeing Nazi persecution. She didn’t leave Paris until 1942, escaping across the Pyrenées on foot and finding a flight to New York. But she never stopped fighting for what mattered.

Their paths never formally crossed again, at least not that we can prove. But their legacies continued to intertwine, quietly and profoundly, through the art they made and the communities they helped build. 

The Frame, an oil painting on tin with a vibrant folk art border, from 1938. Frida’s Paris show wasn’t a total disaster — the Louvre bought this piece for their colletion.

A Happy Ending to Frida’s Time in Paris

In spite of it all, Frida’s Paris disaster managed to end on a high note. Against the odds, her work finally made it onto the walls of a gallery — and not just any gallery. By the end of the show, the Louvre itself (yes, the Louvre) purchased one of her paintings, The Frame, making Frida the first 20th century Mexican artist in the museum’s holdings. Today (when not loaned out to travel), this emblematic self-portrait is part of the Musée National d’Art Moderne’s collection at the Centre Pompidou in Paris. 

DID YOU KNOW? The Pompidou has a branch in Málaga, Spain?

Even more surprising, amid the wreckage of her Surrealist experience, Frida forged real friendships with a few kindred spirits. Man Ray, Duchamp and some others proved to be exceptions to the pompous crowd she had loathed. Some Surrealists were pas mal, after all. –Wally

The Architectural Evolution of the Louvre: From Fortress to Museum

Explore the Louvre’s journey from a medieval castle to a world-renowned museum, uncovering its rich history, design changes and cultural legacy.

The Louvre, known for its iconic art collection, houses more than just masterpieces within its walls — it holds centuries of a stormy history and transformation. 

Originally a medieval fortress, the Louvre has been reshaped over the ages into one of the largest and most renowned museums in the world. This journey through its architecture not only reflects changing styles but also France’s tumultuous past. Let’s step through time and experience the evolving grandeur of the Louvre.

Where Did the Louvre Get Its Name?

First things first: Ever wondered why one of the world’s most famous museums is called the Louvre? You’re not alone, and, like many things in history, the truth is a bit murky. There are a couple of theories, though, both equally intriguing.

The first — and perhaps the most vivid — traces the name back to the Old French word lupara, meaning wolf. Legend has it that the Louvre might have started as a hunting lodge, a place where wolves once roamed, or perhaps a refuge for those hunting them. Imagine early Parisians chasing down these wild creatures in the shadows of what would one day house the Mona Lisa.

The second theory takes us in a different direction, connecting the name to the Frankish word leovar or leower, meaning a fortified place or watchtower. And this one holds some weight, considering the Louvre began its life in the late 12th century as a defensive fortress. 

The Louvre’s Early Years: A Fortress for Kings

The year: 1190. Paris is a thriving but vulnerable medieval city. King Philip II, wary of invasion, commands the construction of a fortress to shield the city from foreign threats. 

The structure — thick stone walls, a deep moat — was built to intimidate and protect. The cold, imposing silhouette of the Louvre Castle stood firm, safeguarding the kingdom’s treasures and its people. 

Yet, as the centuries passed, Paris evolved, and so did the fortress. By the 14th century, under the reign of Charles V, the once purely defensive stronghold began its metamorphosis into a royal palace, draped in the elegance of Gothic architecture, with soaring arches and intricate stonework. The rigid fortress had turned into a symbol of royal power and opulence, reflecting the splendor of the era.

Renaissance Transformations of the Louvre

The Renaissance breathed new life into the Louvre, reshaping it from a fortress-turned-palace into a majestic royal residence. 

In the 16th century, Francis I, a king passionate about art and architecture, envisioned a Louvre that would rival the finest palaces of Europe. He summoned renowned architects like Pierre Lescot to reimagine the building. Stone masons carved delicate sculptures, artisans crafted grand façades, and courtyards took shape — where once there had been utilitarian walls. 

The Cour Carrée, a resplendent square courtyard, emerged as a harmonious blend of Renaissance ideals. Classical columns and elegant pediments framed the space, signaling the Louvre’s new status. No longer a fortress of war, the Louvre was becoming a beacon of French culture, preparing to house not just royals, but the world’s greatest artistic treasures.

The Louvre as Museum

Fast forward to the throes of the French Revolution. The palace, once reserved for royalty, was swept into the tide of change. 

Interestingly, the Louvre itself wasn’t invaded or looted in the chaotic way that some other royal properties were during the Revolution. While many royal residences, like the Palace of Versailles, faced mobs and plundering, the Louvre largely escaped such direct violence.

Instead of looting, there was a process of “nationalization.” Artworks that had belonged to the monarchy, the Church and émigrés (those who fled the country) were legally confiscated and transferred to the Louvre. Revolutionary authorities essentially took over the management of the collections, treating them as public property rather than private royal possessions.

In 1793, the Louvre opened its doors to the public as a museum, a gesture that symbolized the democratization of art and culture. Citizens, for the first time, stood in front of masterpieces previously reserved for the most elite. 

Over the years, its halls would expand, as art from all over Europe poured in. 

By the 19th century, the Louvre was undergoing a new transformation — architects like Hector Lefuel extended and renovated its galleries, crafting the museum we recognize today. 

And then came the most daring addition of all: a modern wonder amid centuries of history.

The Glass Pyramid: A Modern Icon

In 1989, I.M. Pei unveiled his controversial masterpiece: the glass pyramid. 

At first, the contrast was startling. How could this sharp, transparent structure belong in a space so rich with centuries of stone? 

Yet over time, the pyramid became a beloved symbol of the Louvre’s embrace of both past and future. Its sleek lines rise from the courtyard like a beacon, inviting visitors into the heart of the museum. The sunlight streams through its glass panels, casting an ethereal glow across the underground lobby, an unexpected harmony of ancient and modern.

Experiencing the Louvre Today

Today, the Louvre could be considered a pilgrimage site for art lovers from around the globe. Housing over 38,000 works, including the enigmatic Mona Lisa and the timeless Venus de Milo, the Louvre offers not just a glimpse into the history of art but also a walk through the very evolution of Paris and France itself. 

As you wander its grand galleries, each wing tells a different story — of kings, of revolutions, of artistic triumphs. The very stones of the Louvre whisper of the centuries they’ve witnessed.

For modern visitors, the experience begins long before entering its halls. With millions flocking to its doors, securing tickets to the Louvre in advance is essential to making the most of your time. Booking your Louvre tickets online ensures not only your entry but also your chance to explore this monumental blend of history and art at your own pace.

Standing beneath the glass pyramid, surrounded by the architectural echoes of past centuries, you’re stepping into a story that spans from medieval fortifications to modern masterpieces. And when you visit, you’ll become part of the Louvre’s ongoing story. –John Cunningham

 

Beyond Paris: Travel to Lesser-Known France

The most underrated places in France: Nantes, Amiens and Rennes — where mechanical elephants, floating gardens and medieval wonders await your next adventure.

Porte Saint-Pierre in Nantes

Sure, Paris is the City of Love, the place where couples smooch along the Seine. But if you think France is just pain au chocolat, promenades and Paris, you’re just scratching the surface. Once you’ve marveled at the must-sees and taken more Eiffel selfies than your Instagram can handle, it’s time to move beyond Paris into the France that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks.

We’re not saying you should skip Paris — there are just some hidden gems you should also check out.

First Up: Gay Paree

Of course, any trip to France is worth a stop-off in Paris. The first rule? Don’t be in a rush. Paris is a city meant to be savored — one street, one café, one perfect pastry at a time. 

Begin your journey on foot, meandering through boulevards filled with the smell of fresh bread, the buzz of busy terraces and architecture that just might be older than your country. 

Once you’re ready to kick things up a notch, switch over to the Métro or tram — the real Parisian way to get around. Sure, you could opt for taxis or ride-shares, but you’d be missing the electric hum of everyday life on the city’s veins.

Of course, you’ll want to plan ahead. If you want to visit the Louvre, don’t even think about showing up without pre-booked tickets. Skip the epic queues and head straight into the thick of it. 

Or, if you’re craving a bit more underworld mystique, take the plunge into the Catacombs of Paris — a dark, fascinating corner of the city. 

And for the romantics, the Eiffel Tower may be free to admire from below, but if you want to climb up, save yourself time (and foot cramps) by booking your tickets in advance.

Jardin des Tuileries

Picnics, Cruises and Prepping for the Great Escape

Before you say your final “au revoir” to Paris, it’s time to embrace the most Parisian of pastimes: picnicking in a garden. Pack up a basket with a crusty baguette, some fancy cheese, and a bottle of rosé — this is France, after all. Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin des Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens are the perfect spots to recharge. 

But Paris is just the beginning. Once you’ve ticked off the iconic sights, why not step into the real adventure — those lesser-known spots where the crowds thin and the charm thickens. Take a road trip or hop on a train, and dive into the countryside, where France has some seriously under-the-radar gems waiting for you.

Here’s your guide to three fascinating cities that will make your trip to France unforgettable.

Nantes: The City of Innovation and Imagination

If there’s a city where imagination runs wild, it’s Nantes. Perched along the Loire River, this historic gem was once the bustling capital of Brittany and a powerhouse of trade and commerce. Fast forward to today, and Nantes has reinvented itself as a vibrant playground for artists, engineers and visionaries — where creativity isn’t just encouraged, it’s celebrated at every turn.

Must-See Attractions in Nantes

Les Machines de l’Île: A fantastical world inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci, this is one of Nantes’ most famous attractions. Here, you’ll find mechanical animals, including the iconic 40-foot-tall elephant that you can ride as it lumbers through the streets.

Château des Ducs de Bretagne: This 13th century castle is a key part of Nantes’ history. Once the seat of the dukes of Brittany, it now houses a museum that tells the story of the city’s past, including its shameful role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Les Anneaux (The Rings) on l’Île de Nantes

Île de Nantes: The island at the heart of the city is a blend of modern art installations, restaurants and waterfront paths. You’ll find sculptures that pop up in unexpected places, and the island is a symbol of Nantes’ artistic resurgence.

Amiens: France’s Hidden Medieval Treasure

Perhaps Amiens hasn’t made your radar yet — but trust me, it’s one of France’s best-kept secrets, far from the touristy throngs most people associate with a trip to France. Nestled in the Haut-de-France region in the north, Amiens is divided by the River Somme and boasts a blend of charm, history and, yes, some seriously Instagrammable spots. If you’re hunting for a place to grab some mouthwatering French cuisine or buy a perfectly aged bottle of wine, the shops and cafés along Quartier St.-Leu’s narrow, cobbled streets are practically begging you to stop by.

Now, here’s the kicker: Amiens is ridiculously budget-friendly. Sure, France has a rep for being on the pricey side, especially if you’re staying where all the iconic sites are. But in Amiens? You can snag top-tier hotels without emptying your wallet. So while you might be pinching pennies in hostels across Paris or Marseilles, Amiens is where you treat yourself to a touch of luxury. Balance, my friends. Amiens is the city that gets it.

Must-See Attractions in Amiens

Amiens Cathedral: This Gothic masterpiece is one of the largest churches in the world and boasts intricate carvings and towering spires. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s known for its exceptional beauty. The cathedral’s façade was originally painted in vibrant colors. Over time, the paint wore away, leaving the stone we see today. During the summer, a light show recreates these original rainbow hues.

Les Hortillonnages: These floating gardens are situated on a network of canals and have been cultivated since the Middle Ages. You can explore them by boat, winding through the greenery and flower-filled gardens that seem worlds away from the city streets.

Maison de Jules Verne: While Verne was born in Nantes, he spent much of his life in Amiens, where he wrote some of his famous novels. His former home is now a museum that gives visitors a glimpse into his world and imagination.

Rennes: Medieval Meets Modern

In the final stop on our tour of underrated French gems, the road less traveled takes us to Rennes, the capital of Brittany, where history and modernity collide in the best way possible. What sets Rennes apart? Picture medieval half-timbered houses lining the streets, right alongside the imposing grandeur of the cathedral. It’s like stepping into a time machine — but with better coffee.

Must-See Attractions in Rennes

Parlement de Bretagne: Once the seat of the Brittany parliament, this grand building is a must-see for history buffs. It survived a major fire in the 1990s and was carefully restored. Guided tours give visitors a glimpse into the past and the intricate artwork inside.

Thabor Gardens: One of France’s most beautiful public parks, the Thabor Gardens span 25 acres (10 hectares) and include a French garden, English garden, rose garden and aviary. It’s the perfect spot for a quiet escape after a day of sightseeing.

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Art lovers will feel right at home in this museum, which boasts works from European masters like Rubens, Botticelli and Picasso. The museum’s collection covers everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern art.

The Rennes Opera House

France off the Beaten Path

France is so much more than Paris. By stepping off the beaten path and exploring places like Nantes, Amiens and Rennes, you’ll not only escape the tourist crowds but will also discover the true heart of the country. It’s in the untapped corners, the quiet lanes and the lesser-known wonders. As they say: Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. –Sadie Smith

Literary Destinations: Books to Accompany Your Travels

What to read on vacation? From Paris to Tokyo, here are some recommendations to immerse yourself in foreign cultures. 

There’s nothing quite like diving into a book that takes you to the very place you're about to visit — or are currently exploring. Literature has a magical way of bringing locations to life, adding rich historical context, cultural nuances and captivating narratives that enhance your travel experience.

Whether you’re an avid reader or simply just looking to deepen your connection with your destination, creating a literary itinerary can be a delightful way to enrich your journey.

Let’s explore some of the most enchanting destinations and the books that would be your trusty companions along the way. 

Paris, France
Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin

Ah, Paris — the City of Light, and an epicenter of art, culture and romance. Set in 1950s Paris, Baldwin’s novel Giovanni’s Room explores themes of identity, love and societal expectations. The story follows David, an American expat who struggles with his sexual identity. While his fiancée, Hella, is away in Spain, David begins an intense romantic relationship with Giovanni, an Italian bartender. This deeply moving story is a poignant and powerful exploration of the complexities of human emotions and the struggle for self-acceptance in a world that often demands conformity.

Italy
Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert 

Gilbert’s bestselling memoir, Eat Pray Love, is a captivating tale of self-discovery that takes you on a transformative journey through Italy, India and Indonesia. While in Italy, Gilbert immerses herself in the country’s gastronomy, savoring the flavors and traditions of cities like Rome and Naples. This book is sure to whet your appetite for the amazing food and cultural richness that Italy has to offer.

Florida
To Have and Have Not by Ernest Hemingway 

If you’re planning a trip that includes, perhaps, a three-day cruise to Key West, consider packing a copy of To Have and Have Not by Hemingway. Set against the backdrop of the Great Depression in the Florida Keys and Cuba, this gripping novel, written in the author’s simple and direct style, explores the economic struggles and moral dilemmas of its characters. And while you’re in Key West, be sure to visit the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum, where the legendary writer lived in the 1930s, or imbibe at Sloppy Joe’s, Papa’s favorite watering hole during his time on the island.

New York City
The Catcher in the Rye by J.D. Salinger 

Often included in American high school curricula, Salinger’s provocative novel The Catcher in the Rye explores universal themes such as alienation, identity, loss and the transition from adolescence to adulthood — all seen through the eyes of its angsty teenage protagonist, Holden Caulfield. Nearly all the landmarks Holden mentions as he wanders around Manhattan — Central Park, the American Museum of Natural History and the Met — still attracting visitors more than half a century later, and they play significant roles in the story.

Tokyo, Japan
Norwegian Wood by Haruki Murakami

Step into the world of 1960s Japan with Murakami’s coming-of-age novel, Norwegian Wood. This poignant tale of love, loss and self-discovery is narrated by 37-year-old Toru Watanabe, who finds himself transported back to his college days after hearing the Beatles’ song “Norwegian Wood (This Bird Has Flown)” while on a business trip. For an author whose stories typically exist between the real and the surreal, Norwegian Wood takes a decidedly more subtle approach, yet still showcases Murakami’s characteristically delicate touch.

Cape Town, South Africa
Disgrace by J.M. Coetzee

Set in post-apartheid South Africa, J.M. Coetzee’s Booker Prize-winning novel Disgrace focuses on the life of David Lurie, a disgraced university professor. After an affair with a student leads to his dismissal, Lurie retreats to his daughter Lucy's rural farm in the province of Eastern Cape. There, they experience a brutal attack that forces both of them to confront their vulnerabilities and the harsh realities of a changing society. The novel explores themes of power, redemption, racial tensions and the search for a new identity in a country grappling with its past.

Literary Wanderlust

These are just a few examples of the countless literary treasures that can enhance your travel experiences. By immersing yourself in the pages of a book set in your destination, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the local culture, history and stories that have unfolded within those very streets and landscapes.

But the allure of literary travel goes beyond mere reading. Many destinations offer opportunities to follow in the footsteps of your favorite authors, explore the places that inspired their works, or attend literary festivals and events.

So, as you plan your next adventure, be sure to pack a few literary companions — they’ll not only entertain you during your travels but also provide a perspective through which to explore the world around you. –Boris Dzhingarov

A Journey Through Benelux’s Timeless Charms

All aboard for a Benelux train tour! Add Amsterdam, Brussels, Bruges and Luxembourg City to your itinerary of Europe’s Low Countries. 

The high-speed Thalys train from Amsterdam to Brussels travels at speeds of up to 186 mph (300 km/h), covering the distance in under two hours.

As someone who loves to travel and discover Europe’s hidden gems, I embarked on an exciting adventure through the lowlands of Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg. Collectively known as Benelux, the name comes from the first letters of each country’s name. 

Windmills and tulips are part of the appeal of Benelux (the Low Countries of Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg).

From the picturesque canals of Amsterdam to the medieval streets of Bruges, and the cosmopolitan allure of Brussels to the historical landmarks of Luxembourg City, each destination offered a special blend of culture, history and charm waiting to be discovered.

“I spent hours wandering along Amsterdam’s waterways, admiring the elegant canal houses, quaint bridges and bustling houseboats that lined the banks.

I felt like I had stepped into a painting by Vermeer or Rembrandt.”

Paris, the City of Light and of Love, has a timeless allure.

Beginning the Benelux Adventure

First Stop: Paris 

Setting off from London, my journey began with a train from London to Paris, a swift and seamless trip that whisked me across the English Channel and into the heart of France’s vibrant capital.

Upon arriving in Paris, I was greeted by the city’s unmistakable energy and elegance. From the iconic landmarks of the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame Cathedral to the world-class art collections of the Louvre and Musée d’Orsay, Paris exudes a timeless allure that captivated me at every turn. After indulging in a croissant breakfast and a leisurely stroll along the Seine, it was time to continue my journey toward the lowlands of Benelux.

Amsterdam is home to almost 62 miles of canals, 90 islands and 1,500 bridges. In fact, there are more waterways than roads!

Second stop: Amsterdam

After boarding the train to Amsterdam in the Netherlands, I found myself eagerly anticipating the adventures that lay ahead. As the train glided through the scenic countryside, I couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of the bucolic landscapes unfolding before my eyes: lush green meadows dotted with windmills and quaint villages nestled along winding rivers, all viewed from the cozy confines of my seat.

Arriving in Amsterdam, I was immediately enchanted by the city’s unique blend of old world charm and vibrant modernity. One of the highlights of my trip was wandering along the iconic canals, which crisscross the city like a network of veins, pulsating with life and energy. I spent hours wandering along the waterways, admiring the elegant canal houses, quaint bridges and bustling houseboats that lined the banks. I felt like I had stepped into a painting by Vermeer or Rembrandt.

Taxes were charged based on the width of a building — which explains Amsterdam’s tall and narrow houses.

During my time in the capital city, I visited the Anne Frank House. Its poignant exhibits and haunting history were a sobering reminder of Amsterdam’s tumultuous past. 

Additionally, the Van Gogh Museum provided a fascinating glimpse into the brilliant yet troubled genius of one of the world’s most renowned artists.

Gorgeous Baroque and Gothic buildings line la Grand-Place in Brussels.

Third stop: Brussels

I hopped on the Amsterdam to Brussels train to visit the cosmopolitan capital of Belgium. Stepping off the train, I was greeted by the city's lively atmosphere and architectural splendor. Brussels is a melting pot of culture, cuisine, and creativity. The Grand Place, with its ornate guild houses and towering spires, was a sight to behold, especially when illuminated at night. 

The Atomium, built for the the 1958 World Expo in Brussels, stands tall at 335 feet (102 meters) and was designed to resemble an enlarged iron crystal.

The Atomium, a futuristic marvel built for the 1958 World’s Fair, offers panoramic views of the city from its lofty spheres, and the quirky Manneken Pis, a statue of a small boy urinating in perpetuity, never fails to draw a crowd.

Young Duke Godfrey III of Leuven, the inspiration behind Manneken Pis, is said to have brought luck to troops by pissing on the enemies.

And who was I to say no to the city’s culinary offerings? I sampled my way through Brussels’ famous chocolatiers, indulging in pralines, truffles and decadent hot chocolate. Then it was on to waffles and frites — crisp, fried matchstick-cut potatoes served in a paper cone with mayo — all washed down, of course, with delectable Belgian beer.

The medieval town of Bruges is known for its fairy-tale charm.

Fourth Stop: Bruges

Continuing my journey, I made my way to another city in Belgium, Bruges, a medieval gem nestled amid the lush greenery of Flanders. With its fairy tale charm, cobbled roads, romantic canals and well-preserved Gothic architecture, the town felt like something out of a storybook. I wandered through its maze of narrow streets, passing historic guild halls, peaceful canals and tucked-away courtyards. 

The Belfry of Bruges, a medieval marvel dating back to around 1240, stands 272 feet (83 meters) tall and served as a treasury and observation post to spot fires.

While climbing the narrow staircase of the Belfry, a medieval bell tower built around the year 1240, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the Bruges’ rooftops and spires.

Founded in 1245, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Begijnhof was once home to Beguines, independent lay women leading pious lives, and is now inhabited by Benedictine nuns and single women, offering a tranquil retreat in the heart of Bruges.

I found serenity at the Begijnhof (Beguinage Ten Wijngaerd), a tranquil monastic community that was once home to Beguines, women who led lives of religious devotion without joining a formal religious order. The complex includes a Gothic church and about 30 white-painted houses dating from the late 16th, 17th and 18th centuries built around a central yard.

Luxembourg City boasts the world’s second-highest GDP per capita and has three official languages: German, French and Luxembourgish.

Fifth Stop: Luxembourg City

The final leg of my adventure took me to Luxembourg City, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg. A fitting end to my journey, the fortified multi-tiered city is perched atop cliffs with dramatic views overlooking the Alzette and Pétrusse Rivers below.

During the German occupation of Luxembourg in World War II, the Nazis caused a lot of damage to the Grand Ducal Palace using it as a concert hall and tavern.

Sandwiched between Belgium, France and Germany,  the city is a captivating blend of ancient fortifications, lush parks and sleek modern structures. Wander through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ville Haute, Luxembourg’s Old Town, where medieval ramparts and towers stand side by side with elegant pastel-colored townhouses and charming cafés. The Kirchberg Plateau, home to the European Union institutions, offered a striking contrast with its sleek glass buildings and manicured parks. And you can’t miss the Grand Ducal Palace, the official residence of Luxembourg’s grand duke and duchess.

The charming canals of Amsterdam are but one highlight of a trip through Benelux.

Exploring the Low Countries of Benelux

My Benelux trip was a truly amazing experience, allowing me to immerse myself in the vibrant energy of these dynamic cities and uncover the hidden gems that lie within. Whether I was enjoying delicious Belgian chocolates in Brussels or admiring the picture-perfect Gothic architecture of Bruges, every moment was packed with excitement and new discoveries.

As my journey came to an end, I cherished the memories that will stay with me forever, inspiring me to continue to seek out new adventures and explore the world.

Farewell for now, Benelux — your legacy left an indelible impression on me and will forever hold a special place in my heart. –Brayden Sterling 

Iconic Stadiums and Sporting Landmarks Around the World

From the Colosseum to Dodger Stadium, from Wembley to Yankee Stadium, we’ve got a winning itinerary of the planet’s most iconic sporting landmarks. Game on, sports fans!

Sports stadiums have been gathering spots for ages, where people have come to witness athletic feats, whether that’s a fight between gladiators in Ancient Rome or today’s games. From the deafening cheers to the hushed silences, these places have seen raw emotions on full display.

Now, get ready for a global journey for sports fans: We’ll be making stops at some of the world’s most iconic stadiums and sporting landmarks. From an ancient arena to modern architectural marvels, we’ll dig into their history and the architects who brought them to life, throw in some interesting facts, and even point out a few nearby attractions.

All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club

This London site has hosted Wimbledon since 1877. The world famous tournament is one of the big four in professional tennis, commonly known as the Grand Slams. And when  tennis folk mention a “Grand Slam,” they mean winning all four major championships, held in Australia, France, the U.K. and the United States, in the same calendar season.

Architect: Stanley Peach

Fun fact: The retractable roof installed in 2009 ensures that play can continue even during the all-too-common English summer rain. 

Nearby attractions: Visit the Victoria & Albert, an amazing museum of art and design, or grab your baking buddies and live your Great British Bake Off fantasy at the Big London Bake.

Cleveland Browns Stadium

For die-hard American football fans, this place is like sacred turf. When the players hit the field and the game intensifies, you’re in for all the highs and lows of a typical game. And if you’re looking to crank up the experience and try to win some money, hedge your bets with this deal.

Architect: Populous (formerly HOK Sport) 

Fun fact: The stadium was designed to give spectators unobstructed views of the city skyline and Lake Erie. 

Nearby attractions: Why not make a day of it? You can check out the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame or take a leisurely afternoon stroll through the Cleveland Botanical Garden.

The Colosseum

The ancient world had its own versions of sporting arenas, but let’s be honest — none could quite rival the grandeur and infamy of Rome’s magnificent Colosseum. This colossal wonder serves as a testament to the might of the Roman Empire, along with its insatiable appetite for entertainment. The arena’s innovative elliptical shape laid the foundation for modern stadiums.

Constructed under the Flavian dynasty between 72 and 81 CE, the massive amphitheater could seat over 50,000 spectators. In addition to hosting animal hunts and gladiatorial battles, the arena could be flooded with water, where battles between ships would take place — all to the roaring approval or dismay of the audience.

Architect: Commissioned by Emperor Vespasian and completed by his son Titus

Fun fact: Beneath the Colosseum’s floor was a vast subterranean substructure known as the hypogeum. This included a complex network of tunnels and chambers where gladiators, ferocious beasts and sinister contraptions for special effects were kept before fights. 

Nearby attractions: You won’t have to go far at all to dive into Ancient Roman history. Just a stone's throw away, you’ve got the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, waiting to transport you back in time.

Dodger Stadium

SoCal vibes meet America’s so-called favorite pastime at Dodger Stadium. Serving as home base for the Los Angeles Dodgers, it’s been an integral part of the MLB (Major Baseball League) scene since it opened in 1962. Built in the valley of Chavez Ravine and set against the backdrop of the San Gabriel Mountains, its scenic beauty complements the thrilling baseball action. 

Architect: Emil Praeger 

Fun fact: The concept for Dodger Stadium began to take shape in 1957, following the team’s relocation from Brooklyn, New York. Today, it holds the title as the oldest ballpark west of the Mississippi River and ranks as the third-oldest MLB ballpark, behind Boston’s Fenway Park and Chicago’s Wrigley Field. 

Nearby attractions: Reach for the stars at Griffith Observatory or visit historic Olvera Street, where you’ll find the colorful Mexican Marketplace. 

Estádio do Maracanã

Constructed to serve as the main venue for the 1950 World Cup, Rio de Janeiro’s Maracanã Stadium embodies Brazil’s unwavering passion for football (known to us Americans as soccer). This stadium has borne witness to some of the sport’s most historic moments, including the legendary Brazilian footballer Pelé scoring his 1,000th career goal here in 1969. 

Architect: Rafael Galvão and Pedro Paulo B. Machado 

Fun fact: The World Cup final held at Maracanã still holds the record for the highest attendance, with a crowd estimated at over 199,000.

Nearby attractions: Take the cog train to the top of Corcovado Mountain to reach the awe-inspiring Christ the Redeemer statue or visit the white sand beaches of Ipanema.  

Estadio Santiago Bernabéu

Madrid’s Estadio Santiago Bernabéu stands as a monument to football royalty. It has hosted the final match of the UEFA Champions League on four occasions (1957, 1969, 1980 and 2010) and is the home of the Galácticos: the world’s priciest players signed to play for Real Madrid. From David Beckham to Alfredo Di Stéfano to Cristiano Ronaldo, this stadium has borne witness to legends and epic clashes.

Architect: Manuel Muñoz and Luis Alemany Soler, with a revamp by L35, Ribas & Riba, and GMP Architekten

Fun fact: The Bernabéu has an unusual vertical design, making it one of the steepest stadiums in the world, helping ensure that every fan has a great view. 

Nearby attractions: For those seeking a cultural experience, Madrid beckons with its treasures, such as the Prado Museum and the Royal Palace.

Fenway Park

As home to the Boston Red Sox, Fenway Park proudly holds the title of being the oldest ballpark in Major League Baseball. It boasts a 37-foot-high (11 meters) left field wall affectionately known by locals as the Green Monster. (It was added a couple of years after opening to deter curious passersby from sneaking a glimpse.)

Architect: James McLaughlin

Fun fact: The lone red seat that sits among the green right field bleachers commemorates the longest home run in Fenway Park history, which was hit by Ted Williams on June 9, 1946. Legend holds that Williams spotted a fan taking a nap and decided to wake him up by launching a ball at him.

Nearby attractions: After the game’s over, you’ve got some great options for entertainment. You can explore Boston's historic Freedom Trail or head over to the lively Quincy Market. 

Indianapolis Motor Speedway

Racing enthusiasts know that there’s no place quite like the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in Indiana. The thrill, the speed and the history — it’s all there. Traditionally, the race is held over the last weekend of May and stands as one of the oldest and largest single-day sporting events in the world.

Architect: Not attributed to a specific architect or firm

Fun fact: Originally, this race was called the 500-Mile Sweepstakes, but its name went through quite a few changes over time. The “500” stuck around, though. Drivers hit 500 miles by going 200 laps around the 2.5-mile oval.

Nearby attractions: The Indianapolis Motor Speedway Museum offers an in-depth exploration of racing history. You can also discover artworks along the 100-acre riverfront Virginia B. Fairbanks Art & Nature Park. 

Madison Square Garden

New York City’s Madison Square Garden has been the stage for some of the 20th century’s greatest athletes, from boxing legend Muhammad Ali to hockey great Mark Messier. Nicknamed the World’s Most Famous Arena, the venue has witnessed a bit of everything — from Marilyn Monroe singing “Happy Birthday” to President John F. Kennedy at the 1962 Democratic Party fundraising dinner to the excitement of Knicks basketball and Rangers hockey games.

Architect: Stanford White, Cass Gilbert and Charles Luckman

Fun fact: Madison Square Garden has been rebuilt a total of four times since 1879. Its current iteration was designed by American architect Charles Luckman in 1968, whose firm also designed the Prudential Tower in Boston and the Forum in Inglewood, California.

Nearby attractions: Explore the High Line, a public park built on a historic elevated rail line and watch the sunset over Manhattan from the 86th floor of the Empire State Building. 

Melbourne Cricket Ground

Over in Australia, you’ve got the Melbourne Cricket Ground, or MCG to locals. This place is like the crown jewel of Aussie sports venues, and it’s a big deal, as it’s the largest in the Southern Hemisphere. It was built to satisfy the continent’s cricket craze, and it was here that the world’s first test cricket match took place, in 1877. Test cricket is like the granddaddy of the sport, lasting a full five days, where two national teams take turns batting and bowling. It was a faceoff between Australia and England, and in the end, Australia came out on top, winning by 45 runs. 

Architect: Various (the stadium has undergone multiple renovations)

Fun fact: The MCG’s six light towers are 75 meters high, equivalent to a 22-story building and are the tallest of any sporting venue in the world.

Nearby attractions: Take a leisurely stroll along the Yarra River or visit the National Sports Museum for a comprehensive exploration of Australia’s sports legacy. 

San Siro Stadium 

Italy’s San Siro is one of the most legendary venues for football (soccer). It’s officially named Stadio Giuseppe Meazza in memory of Milanese footballer Giuseppe Meazza and is home to both Inter and AC Milan, two top professional teams.

AC Milan was founded in 1899, and Inter Milan followed nine years later in 1908. Interestingly, Inter’s formation was a result of a disagreement within AC Milan’s ranks, particularly regarding the signing of foreign players. A fierce rivalry emerged, cranking up the already electrifying atmosphere of the annual Milan Derby, which, as you might have guessed, takes place at none other than San Siro.

Architect: Ulisse Stacchini and Alberto Cugini

Fun fact: In preparation for the 1990 World Cup, architects Giancarlo Ragazzi and Enrico Hoffer, along with engineer Leo Finzi, designed the addition of the stadium’s third tier, suspended by its 11 spring-like towers and crisscrossed red steel girders. These enhancements were aimed at boosting San Siro’s seating capacity. 

Nearby attractions: The Castello Sforzesco and the gorgeous Gothic-style Milan Cathedral, known as the Duomo, (the third largest church in the world) are situated in the heart of the city.

SoFi Stadium

Home to the Los Angeles Rams and Chargers, this stadium sets the bar high with its innovative design and immersive state-of-the-art facilities. The 3.1-million-square-foot (288,000-square-meter) arena is the largest in the NFL. 

Architect: HKS 

Fun fact: The stadium features the Oculus, an oval, double-sided infinity screen suspended 122 feet (37 meters) above the playing field. This massive display includes a 4K HDR video board and 27,000 embedded LED pucks capable of displaying images and videos in such high resolution that you can spot them from airplanes arriving at Los Angeles International Airport.

Nearby attractions: Take in a concert at the Kia Forum or grab a donut at Randy’s. The original shop features a massive 32-foot-tall donut on its roof, and has appeared in movies like Wayne’s World and Iron Man. 

Stade Roland-Garros

Paris is home to this mecca for clay court tennis. It’s the place where the French Open goes down every year. For two action-packed weeks, the best international players, including Björn Borg and Rafael Nadal, gather to battle it out on its challenging courts. And there are 17 of them, including the central Philippe-Chatrier court, which has a retractable roof to keep the game going when it rains.

Architect: Louis Faure-Dujarric 

Fun fact: The stadium features an open-air courtyard dedicated to France’s Four Musketeers, or les Quatre Mousquetaires. It’s a nod to a quartet of iconic French players: Jean Borotra, Jacques Brugnon, Henri Cochet and René Lacoste, who made their country proud in the tennis scene during the 1920s and ’30s. Lacoste even got his nickname “the Crocodile,” thanks to his big grin and iron grip on his racket. And guess what? He later went on to create the clothing brand famous for that embroidered crocodile logo.

Nearby attractions: The enchanting Bois de Boulogne park is right next door, and the Eiffel Tower is a short distance away.

Wembley Stadium

Crossing over to the British Isles, Wembley Stadium in London is a pilgrimage site for football/soccer fans. The venue hosts major matches, including the home games of the England national football team and the Football Association Challenge Cup final as well as hosting concerts from bands like Green Day. 

Sir Robert McAlpine laid the foundation for the original, which was constructed for the British Empire Exhibition of 1924 and was quite a marvel, being the largest reinforced concrete building of its time. Its famous twin towers were symbols of the game and served as the backdrop for some of the most epic moments in football for over 75 years.

The new Wembley, designed nearly 16 years ago by Foster + Partners, is twice the size of the old one and comes with modern upgrades like a retractable roof for those unpredictable weather days and a soaring arch that’s taken over as the iconic replacement for the twin towers.

Architect: Robert McAlpine, then Norman Foster

Fun fact: The Wembley Arch soars to a staggering height of 133 meters, equivalent to about 30 stories, and stretches 315 meters (over 1,000 feet), solidifying its status as the world’s longest single-span roof structure. It’s functional too, though: It bears the majority of the roof’s weight.

Nearby attractions: Located adjacent to the stadium, the London Designer Outlet (LDO) is a great place to get your shopping fix. Or you can spend a fun afternoon at the landmark Natural History Museum. They’ve got hands-on exhibits and even animatronic dinosaurs!

Wrigley Field

If you breeze into Chicago, aka the Windy City, you’ve got to stop by Wrigley Field, America’s second-oldest Major League ballpark. If we’re talking about a stadium that can rival Boston’s Green Monster, Wrigley’s ivy-covered outfield wall is a strong contender. It’s so iconic, it’s got its own set of rules: If a baseball disappears into its vines, the batter (and all runners) are granted two bases. However, to make it official, an outfielder must raise his hand to signal that the ball is lost in the ivy. If he doesn’t, it’s considered fair play. 

Architect: Zachary Taylor Davis

Fun fact: The neighborhood stadium was one of the last Major League ballparks to install lights for night games, which didn’t happen until 1988. The tale of these floodlights dates back to the early 1940s, when plans were set in motion, but a pivotal twist occurred after the attack on Pearl Harbor. In a patriotic gesture, Philip K. Wrigley, owner of the Cubs, diverted 165 tons of steel to support the war effort instead of installing the lights.

Nearby attractions: After the game, you can wander the lively Wrigleyville neighborhood. And if you’re up for more adventure, don’t miss the chance to explore the city’s legendary architecture by taking a boat tour along the Chicago River. 

Yankee Stadium

The original Yankee Stadium was a massive horseshoe-shaped ballpark and one of the most beloved structures in the history of baseball. Its field witnessed legendary players like Babe Ruth, Lou Gehrig, Joe DiMaggio and Mickey Mantle rounding its bases, to name just a few.

In 2009, the torch was passed to the new Yankee Stadium. Inspired by the 1923 Bronx Stadium, the modern four-story limestone and granite-faced ballpark even re-created the arched Art Deco metal frieze that crowned the upper deck of its illustrious predecessor.

Architect: Populous (formerly HOK Sport)

Fun fact: The Yankees’ impressive HD display is about 103 feet (30 meters) wide and 58 feet (18 meters) tall — six times larger than the screen at the old stadium. 

Nearby attractions: Check out the Bronx Museum of the Arts and explore the impressive Victorian-era greenhouses of the New York Botanical Garden.

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These stadiums and sporting venues are more than just places to watch a game — they are monuments to athletic achievement and the human spirit. Within their walls and on their fields, records have been broken, underdogs have triumphed, and fans have bonded over the shared passions of competition and community. Though styles and designs may change with the times, the thrill of cheering for the home team endures. The legends, memories and traditions attached to these landmarks will continue to inspire athletes and fans for generations to come. Wherever you are in the world, paying a visit to one of these iconic sporting meccas is a must for any true sports lover. –Taylor Miller 

Notre-Dame Before the Fire

We passed by Notre-Dame de Paris every morning during our week-long visit. Now you can admire some photos of the famous cathedral before the damage from the 2019 fire.

Wally jumps for joy in the beautiful garden behind Notre-Dame Cathedral, which glows a warm pale yellow.

It was the perfect morning tradition. In 2013 we visited Paris and stayed at our friends Michael and Kent’s apartment in Montparnasse. A few days into our trip my parents arrived and Duke and I would ride the Métro to meet my parents, who were staying at a cute little hotel on Île Saint-Louis. We got off on Île de la Cité and walked past Notre-Dame, before crossing the bridge to meet my mom and dad at the oh-so-Parisian Saint-Régis café at the foot of the street. 

Wally’s parents stayed on the neighboring isle, so Notre-Dame was a short walk away en route to the Métro.

We felt so lucky to have this morning ritual: a stroll past what is arguably the world’s most famous cathedral, with its beautiful gardens and statues of saints and gargoyles peering out from its façade. 

Saints alive! (Actually, the fact that they’re saints means they’re long dead.)

Gargoyles (chimères en français) do double duty: They scare away evil spirits and act as rainspouts.

While impressive, the interior has always struck me as a bit too claustrophobic, gloomy and choked with incense — more suited to a mystery religion to honor a pagan deity than to inspire awe in the Catholic God. I’m much more of a Sacré-Cœur type of guy.

The sides of the cathedral are dark, lit only by candlelight.

Sometimes we’d drop my parents off at their hotel in the evening. We saw the cathedral in all kinds of light. It was the backdrop to our vacation. 

An electrical short most likely caused the fire that damaged Notre-Dame in 2019.

Notre-Dame and the Fire of 2019

Because Notre-Dame was such an integral part of our trip and an iconic symbol of Paris, it was with great shock and sadness that I watched news footage of the fire that consumed the cathedral on April 15, 2019. It was horrifying and heartbreaking. 

The blaze started in the attic (who knew Notre-Dame even had an attic?!), causing the spire to plummet like a spear, piercing the stone vault of the 850-year-old cathedral. The most likely cause? An electrical short.

The spire, designed by Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, melted from the heat of the blaze, plunging down into the heart of the church. It once pointed heavenward 295 feet high.

Two of the biggest issues from the fire are toxic lead from the melted spire and damage to the flying buttresses, which support the vaulted ceiling.

Les pompiers, the French firefighters, had been trained how to handle such an emergency. They used low-pressure hoses and focused on saving priceless artworks and the bell towers. 

While the damage wasn’t as devastating as it could have been, one of the major issues now is that the roof and spire were made of lead, which melted and poured the toxic liquid into the damaged building. Some of it formed stalactites of sorts that remain to this day. 

And the very structure of Notre-Dame is at risk: The architectural innovation that supports its vaulted ceiling, the flying buttresses, tottered dangerously, threatening to collapse the structure before being shored up by temporary wood bracing.

Here’s hoping that this magnificent cathedral is someday soon renovated to its former glory. In the meantime, here are some of the photos we took on our visit before the fire. –Wally

Notre-Dame served as the backdrop of Wally and Duke’s trip to Paris.

I never promised you a rose garden — but there’s one behind Notre-Dame.

Duke in front of the bell towers, which were a priority for firefighters to save.

Duke puts Wally on a pedestal.

The carvings on the façade of Notre-Dame are quite ornate.

Notre-Dame is one of the most impressive examples of Gothic architecture.

This guy has lost his head. Saint Denis of Paris was a 3rd century bishop who was decapitated for his religious beliefs.

Adam and Eve — and the serpent, depicted as a temptress

A tarnished bas-relief

Sharp angles and monsters on Notre-Dame’s exterior

Creepy (but cool) gargoyles, their screams set in stone

Medieval griffons form this geometric pattern.

Sculptures of the kings of Judah line the façade of Notre-Dame, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

One of the more hideous gargoyles seen at Notre-Dame

The main aisle of the cathedral is narrow — though surely groundbreaking at the time of its construction.

Pray for us sinners, now and at the hour of our death. Amen.

A statue of Joan of Arc (known as Jeanne d’Arc in her native France)

H is for…?

The stained glass windows add vibrant splashes of color to the otherwise gloomy interior.

Light a votive candle and admire one the famous Rose Windows.

Doubting Thomas pokes one of Jesus’ wounds after the resurrection.

A container in the cathedral is filled with letters people have written, one supposes, to God.

A model of the cathedral

Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris
6 Parvis Notre-Dame
Place Jean-Paul II
75004 Paris
France

 

15 Best Articles of 2017

Our top blog posts cover the Paris Catacombs, India’s transsexual hijras, jinns, vintage Halloween, Fès hammans and more.

Duke and I tend to be drawn to the bizarre. We’re fans of the strange (chambers lined with skulls and bones, creepy vintage Halloween postcards and photos). We like to meet those who are societal outsiders (like India’s legal third sex, the hijra). We’re obsessed with the supernatural (jinns, gypsy love spells). But we also appreciate a good pampering (at a Fès hamman, say) and architectural beauties (such as the Milan Duomo).

Seems like you do, too. Here are the top 15 blog posts from last year. What was your favorite? –Wally

1. GRUESOME FACTS (AND HELPFUL TIPS) ABOUT THE PARIS CATACOMBS

No bones about it: If you think piles of skulls and hallways formed of bones are pretty effin’ cool (like us), then the Catacombs of Paris are for you.

2. SECRETS OF THE HIJRA: INDIA’S LITTLE-KNOWN TRANSSEXUALS

Prostitution, curses and dangerous sex change operations are a way of life for this marginalized community.

3. HOW TO PROTECT YOURSELF FROM JINNS AND BLACK MAGIC

Black magic in Islam is a serious concern — and the holy writings offer numerous ways to negate magic jinn.

4. THE BEST PLACE TO MAKE OUT IN PUBLIC IN DELHI

Not a typical tourist stop, the Garden of Five Senses is a whimsical sculpture park worth visiting. It’s also popular with local couples escaping societal judgment against PDA.

5. 24 VINTAGE HALLOWEEN CARDS THAT ARE NOSTALGIC — BUT A BIT CREEPY, TOO

Halloween greetings from the past featured common Halloween symbols: the witch, black cat, jack-o’-lantern, ghost, devil — and one that has been forgotten.

6. 21 VINTAGE HALLOWEEN PHOTOS THAT ARE SO CREEPY THEY'LL GIVE YOU NIGHTMARES

Halloween costumes of the past were scary as hell.

7. WHAT’S THE BEST HAMMAM SPA EXPERIENCE IN FES, MOROCCO?

Reinvigorate yourself at the luxury hammam Les Bains Amani.

8. 7 FUN FACTS ABOUT THE MILAN CATHEDRAL

What to do in Milan, Italy? Visit the gorgeous Duomo di Milano, covered with statues of saints and gargoyles — and don’t miss the amazing view from the rooftop.

9. LOVE SPELLS FROM THE GYPSIES

How to cast a love spell to make someone fall in love with you — or fall out of love with you. Plus, secrets from the Roma that will reveal your future spouse!

10. THE PISHTACO OF PERU

Why one of the world’s creepiest vampire legends lingers to this day.

11. WAT RONG SUEA TEN, THE BLUE TEMPLE

No day trip to Chiang Rai is complete without a visit to this breathtaking wat, between the White Temple and Black Museum.

12. THE BEST AND WORST PARTS OF LIVING IN QATAR

What’s it like living in a Muslim country that fasts for an entire month and limits the sale of booze? What do Qataris think of Americans? And how the heck do you pronounce Qatar?

13. THE INDIAN CASTE SYSTEM EXPLAINED

Brahmin, Kshatriya, Vaishya, Shudra, untouchable: How did the caste system get started, what is the difference between castes — and how does this shameful practice persist to this day?

14. HOW ST. NICHOLAS BECAME SANTA CLAUS

The surprising origins of jolly old St. Nick include a tie to prostitution, kids chopped into pieces, a devil named Krampus and a racist tradition around his helper Zwarte Pieter, or Black Peter.

15. THE BEST SHOP FOR BLUE POTTERY IN THE ENTIRE FEZ MEDINA

If you’re shopping in Fès, just off of Place Seffarine is a small shop with a friendly owner and great deals.

Petit Palais: 6 Fun Facts About This Paris Attraction

Looking for not-so-typical things to do in Paris? Visit this gorgeous palace art museum where the garden café and iron staircases are works of art themselves.

Le Petit Palais (and le Grand Palais across the street) were built as permanent fixtures for the 1900 World Exhibition.

There are so many sites to see in Paris that even after a week, we felt we had barely scratched the surface. There are the biggies (the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, Notre-Dame) and there are the ones that appeal to Duke’s and my warped sensibilities (the Catacombs, Père Lachaise Cemetery).

And then there are the attractions that make what I like to call the B list. These are the ones that are great to see once you’ve ticked some of the others off your list. Especially if you’ve visited Paris before, you’ve got an opportunity to hit some of the lesser-known sights. You’ll find that there are still so many of these that it can difficult to narrow down even the B list.

Beautiful bas-relief sculptures and amazing metalwork frame the entrance to le Petit Palais.

Le Petit Palais (literally, the Little Palace) is one such site. My mom’s friend had recently been to Paris and she raved about how much she enjoyed this smaller, gorgeous art museum. It’s one of those places we wouldn’t have added to our itinerary if we hadn’t gotten this word-of-mouth recommendation.

But we spent a couple of highly enjoyable hours in this ornate mansion and definitely suggest putting it on your B list.

Here are some fun facts about the Petit Palais.

1. Le Petit Palais was built for the 1900 World Exhibition.

Like its big brother across the Avenue Winston Churchill, the Grand Palais, the structure was intended to stand the test of time, instead of the temporary buildings so often constructed for world’s fairs.

Both sit near another World Exhibition project to beautify the city, the bridge called le Pont Alexandre III. Designed by Charles Girault, the palace consists of four wings around a colonnade that borders a semicircular garden. It took over 20 years to complete.

Part of the intricate façade of the Petit Palais. (Duke and Wally have a soft spot for squirrels.)

2. Fair officials liked the plan because it dealt with what they viewed as an eyesore.

One of the leftover buildings from the 1855 World Fair, the Palais de l’Industrie, ran parallel to the Champs Élysées and blocked views of Les Invalides (where the tomb of Napoleon resides). So when it was suggested to demolish it and build two palaces that fit with the new development plans for Paris, officials green-lit the project.

La Vachalcade by Fernand Pelez, 1896 

3. In 1902, it became an art museum.

The Petit Palais’ permanent collection of artwork spans from antiquity to 1920. In one room you may find a 19th century painting of a famous Parisian food market, while in another you’ll be looking at medieval illuminated manuscripts or ancient Greek pottery, Paris Perfect points out.

Porteurs de Farine, Scène Parisienne by Louis-Robert Carrier-Belleuse, 1885

Sometimes we enjoy going to a smaller museum, where you can see the entire collection in a couple of hours, as opposed to the overwhelming Louvre, for instance, where you could wander for over a week and still not see everything. 

An added bonus? The Petit Palais is free!

The museum is truly breathtaking, with art to be found every direction you look, including up.

4. Le Petit Palais is famous for its murals.

The Petit Palais is officially known as the Musée des Beaux-Arts de la Ville de Paris (the Paris Fine Arts Museum).

Albert Besnard was given the task of painting four decorative murals for the entrance hall. He named his works of art Matter, Thought, Formal Beauty and Mysticism and worked on them from 1903 to 1910.

Heads-up! Some of the artwork is found on the ceiling.

Don’t forget to look up. Not all of the artwork hangs on the walls. Some of the most impressive pieces are part of the palace itself. The painted ceilings took from 1909 to 1924 to complete. The North Pavilion’s were painted by Ferdinand Humbert, while those in the South Pavilion are by Georges Picard.

There are two main galleries that also have murals. One shows Paris of the past, from the Battle of Lutetia (fought at the bequest of Caesar) to the French Revolution, while the other illustrates a more modern Paris.

Also keep an eye out for the 16 plaster busts set into niches. They’re of famous artists, including Eugène Delacroix.

You have to make sure you see Girault’s gorgeous lace-like iron staircase.

5. The spiraling staircases are true works of art.

Make sure you explore the spiral staircases at Petit Palais. We found one in the back corner and were mesmerized by its graceful metallic curves. The designer, Girault, is credited with creating some of the finest wrought iron work ever. He also designed the golden gate at the entrance as well.

Wally wouldn’t mind living in a place like this.

Now this is the kind of staircase you can make a grand entrance on!

Duke and I were absolutely obsessed with the staircase. The banisters and balustrade consist of curlicues and the spiraling tendrils of plantlife. How the heck did Girault take a hard material like iron and make it look like delicate vines? You have to see this for yourself.

There’s a cute café in the central courtyard of the Petit Palais, along with a lush garden.

6. The courtyard garden is a gorgeous spot to have lunch or take a coffee break.

Our other favorite spot at the palace is le Jardin du Petit Palais, the enclosed garden café. Even though the building is on one of Paris’ major thoroughfares, you’d never know it. Lush plants and a curved row of columns draped in golden garlands provide cover in this secret spot in the central courtyard of the museum.

Grab a bite to eat or a drink (caffeinated or alcoholic) and soak in this peaceful oasis, with its reflecting pools, tropical foliage and stunning mosaic floors. What’s cool is that you’ll see the other side of the palace, where you enter, across the way, as if it’s an entirely different building. –Wally

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Wally attempts to blend in with the statue. Doesn’t look just like a nature goddess?

 

Le Petit Palais
Avenue Winston Churchill
75008 Paris, France

The Secrets of Saint-Sulpice

Dan Brown got some details wrong in The Da Vinci Code, but this large church is still worth a visit — especially if you’re planning to hit the Luxembourg Gardens.

If you’re in Saint-Germain-des-Près or visiting the Luxembourg Gardens, be sure to stop by Saint-Sulpice Church.

Église Saint-Sulpice
12 Place Saint-Sulpice
75005 Paris, France

It might be the second-biggest church in Paris, but Saint-Sulpice isn’t a major tourist attraction — now that Da Vinci Code fever has died down

• Saint-Sulpice is the second-largest church in Paris, behind Notre-Dame.

• It’s located in the 6th arrondissement, in the fashionable Saint-Germain-des-Près district.

• The Catholic church is dedicated to Saint Sulpicius the Pious, a 7th century bishop of Bourges, who spoke out against the Merovingian kings.

• Construction of the church ran from 1646 to 1745, dragging out for a century mostly due to inconsistent funding. It’s done in a muted Baroque style.

• Saint-Sulpice was where the S&M enthusiast the Marquis de Sade and the poet Charles Baudelaire were baptized, and it hosted the wedding of author Victor Hugo.

• It boasts iconic mismatched towers.

• The church is home to one of the most magnificent organs in the world.

• It’s known as the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche, or Left Bank.

• Saint-Sulpice became even more famous by being featured in a scene in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code involving its gnomon, an astronomical instrument erroneously depicted as the site of the Rose Line.

• How do you pronounce Saint-Sulpice? Try saying “Seh Sool-Peez.”

The fountain was built by Louis Visconti in the mid-1800s.

We had spent the morning wandering the Luxembourg Gardens. Our friends Kent and Michael, who live in Paris, suggested we make the short walk to see l’Église Saint-Sulpice. We’re glad we did.

“In The Da Vinci Code, Dan Brown calls the gnomon the Paris Meridian, or the Rose Line — but apparently that’s pure fiction.”

Wally never misses a chance to photograph depictions of lions.

Fontaine Saint-Sulpice

A block from the gardens, we entered a small square with a fountain dominating the space. It’s quite an impressive work, with lions lying down but roaring grumpily, just like our cat Caribou. The Fontaine Saint-Sulpice was constructed between 1843 and 1848 by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed Napoleon’s tomb.

The impressive fountain in front of Saint-Sulpice, with one of its mismatched towers in the background

Wally, far right, and his friends at the Fontaine Saint-Sulpice

At the top, in a rectangular structure built of arches, four assumably famous dudes sit majestically, starting out in each of the cardinal directions. Apparently, they were all created by different sculptors and represent religious figures who were known for having the gift of gab.

Saint-Sulpice features prominently in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code.

Église Saint-Sulpice

The Church of Saint-Sulpice now stands where a small Romanesque church once catered to the neighborhood, long before the Saint-Germain-des-Près district was home to the existentialists (Sartre and the gang) or the posh hot spot it is today.

Thinking of changing careers? Pray to Saint Sulpicius, to whom the church is dedicated; he’s the patron saint of delayed vocations. (The Martyrdom of Saint Sulpicius, Eugene Delacroix, circa 1847)

Like many large churches, it took a long time to build — about a century — mainly due to touch-and-go funding, with various architects contributing different designs along the way. Construction began in 1646 but stalled from 1678 to 1719. It then resumed, mostly wrapping up by 1745.

A funerary niche at Saint-Sulpice

Some of the statues at the church are simply heavenly.

Nicknamed the Cathedral of the Rive Gauche (Left Bank), Saint-Sulpice is one of the largest churches in Paris, second only to Notre-Dame. Its design is actually quite plain for the typically frilly and ornate Baroque style. You’ll also notice that it’s slightly asymmetrical, as the south tower was never finished. Construction was interrupted by the French Revolution and never completed. Stacks of open colonnades line the exterior, evoking the Roman Colosseum.

Light a candle and say a prayer, even if you’re not religious — it certainly can’t hurt, right?

Saint-Sulpice Church is renowned for its massive organ, considered one of the finest (and largest) in the world. It dates back to 1781 and was the highlight of Aristide Cavaillé-Coll’s career. Because of this impressive instrument, concerts are frequently held in the church.

A down and out man in front of the church

A wedding was taking place at the far front of the church. We caught the bride and her father as they headed up there.

Nowhere near as popular as other churches, like Notre-Dame or Sacré-Cœur, this feels very much like a neighborhood place of worship, and chances are you’ll be able to wander it without many other tourists around. When we visited, there was a small wedding going on at the very front of the church, and we watched the bride and her father weave their way through the space, heading up the aisle.

There aren’t any pews at Saint-Sulpice…

…just row after row of small wooden chairs.

One thing that particularly struck us is the lack of pews — instead, there are rows upon rows of small wooden chairs with woven seats.

The Da Vinci Code Connection

There it is.

Embedded in the gray granite floor, a thin polished strip of brass glistened in the stone … a golden line slanting across the church’s floor. The line bore graduated markings, like a ruler. It was a gnomon, Silas had been told, a pagan astronomical device like a sundial. Tourists, scientists, historians, and pagans from around the world came to Saint‑Sulpice to gaze upon this famous line.

The Rose Line.

…. It was an ancient sundial of sorts, a vestige of the pagan temple that had once stood on this very spot. The sun’s rays, shining through the oculus on the south wall, moved farther down the line every day, indicating the passage of time, from solstice to solstice.

–“The Da Vinci Code,” Chapter 22, Dan Brown

Look for the gnomon, which leads to an obelisk against one wall. This line marks the solstices and equinoxes.

Saint-Sulpice has another claim to fame: It’s featured in Dan Brown’s fun puzzle romp The Da Vinci Code — both the book, quoted above, and the crappy movie version.

The narrow brass strip is used as a clue by Silas, the murderous monk, in his quest for the Holy Grail. One end is found near the middle of the nave on the right, by a stone statue with a Latin inscription. From there, it runs north, leading to an obelisk next to a statue of Saint Peter.

This is the famous gnomon — technically, the projecting piece on a sundial that shows the time by the position of its shadow. In this case, it’s a line that’s used as an astronomical instrument from the 1700s to determine the suspiciously pagan date of Easter each year (the first Sunday after the first full moon on or after the vernal equinox — it doesn’t get any more pagan than that!). The sun’s rays enter the church through a missing panel in the south transept’s stained glass window and fall upon the line at various points throughout the year. On the spring and autumn equinoxes the sun hits a bronze table, and on the winter solstice, it illuminates the obelisk.

Brown calls this line the Paris Meridian, or the Rose Line, but apparently that’s pure fiction: Zero longitude of the meridian line is actually in Parc Montsouris, according to Travel France Online.

Because of the influx of Da Vinci Code aficionados (visitations increased 25% after the publication of the novel, apparently), Saint-Sulpice posted the following note in English:

Well, The Da Vinci Code version makes a good story. But even the facts are not without interest, in providing an example of the cooperation of science and religion. It would not be unreasonable to expect the church was built on a pagan temple; this was a regular practice. However, it seems unlikely that the sundial, especially if known to be pagan, would have been preserved or reconstructed in the new church building.

Despite the fact that Brown manipulated the facts a bit to make a more compelling story, Saint-Sulpice is definitely worth a wander, especially when paired with the Luxembourg Gardens. –Wally