Bali: Luxury Travel in Paradise

Explore Bali’s top luxury destinations, including private villas, opulent resorts, fine dining and lavish experiences.

Bali isn’t just a destination to experience sandy beaches and lush tropical splendor. Beyond its beguiling cultural heritage of sacred temples and enchanting water gardens, it’s also home to some of Asia’s finest resorts, where unparalleled luxury and exceptional service await.

As I browsed through breathtaking locations, I couldn’t help but daydream of staying at one of these striking accommodations, surrounded by the island’s stunning beauty.

“Bali has long been a magnet for travelers seeking a blend of culture, natural beauty and unforgettable experiences.

With this trifecta, it’s easy to see why Bali belongs on your bucket list.”

Join me as we delve into the sophisticated allure of the Island of Gods. You just might find your next escape. 

Bali: A Top Luxury Destination

Bali has long been a magnet for travelers seeking a blend of culture, natural beauty and unforgettable experiences. With this trifecta, it’s easy to see why Bali belongs on your bucket list.

But first, let’s address the formalities. Bali Visa Pro makes getting your visa a breeze, taking care of all the paperwork so you can focus on planning an unforgettable stay. Trust me: Starting your vacation stress-free sets the perfect tone for the luxury that awaits you.

Must-Visit Bali Luxury Destinations

Check out these destinations in Bali where you’ll find exotic accommodations and thrilling experiences. Get your notepad ready!

Ubud

Stay in Ubud, the island’s vibrant cultural hub. Surrounded by rice fields, rivers and jungle, Ubud offers a mix of culture, adventure and relaxation. 

Start your day with a serene morning yoga session at a world-class retreat, then wander through the famous Sacred Monkey Forest. Art enthusiasts shouldn’t miss a private gallery tour for an intimate look at Balinese artistry. It’s never a bad idea to pamper yourself and book a massage treatment at a high-end spa. And don’t forget the photogenic Tegalalang Rice Terraces — take a leisurely walk (or an exhilarating swing) over the terraced fields.

Seminyak

If beach vibes are more your style, head to Seminyak. This trendy area is filled with upscale boutiques and fine dining spots, making it a haven for those who love to shop and dine in style. While the nightlife pulses with energy, its laidback daytime vibes are what truly set this destination apart.

Nusa Dua

Located on the eastern coast of the Bukit Peninsula, Nusa Dua is considered one of the island’s most peaceful and luxurious destinations. Imagine yourself on a helicopter tour, soaring over the Uluwatu Temple — the dramatic coastline, towering cliffs and ocean views are simply breathtaking from above. This exhilarating experience will stay with you for years to come.

Luxury Resorts and Villas in Bali

When it comes to accommodations, Bali offers an abundance of options. Here are a few of my picks:

Bvlgari Resort Bali

Situated atop the rugged cliffs near Uluwatu, one of the island’s most sacred temples, the Bvlgari Resort Bali exemplifies elegance and serenity. Resembling a quaint Italian cliffside village, this sanctuary features 59 villas connected by cobblestone pathways. Every standalone bungalow features a spacious outdoor pavilion, stunning ocean vistas and a private plunge pool. The resort seamlessly blends Italian design with Indonesian materials, such as volcanic stone and bangkirai wood.

Indulge in world-class amenities, including an oceanfront spa, where treatments are inspired by traditional Balinese techniques. Savor exquisite cuisine at Il Ristorante, where chef Luca Fantin presents Italian dishes with a modern twist, or enjoy the international fare at the all-day Sangkar diner.

Bvlgari Resort Bali
Jalan Goa Lempeh
Banjar Dinas Kangin 
Uluwatu
Bali

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Nestled among the tropical greenery of the Ayung River valley, the Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is the pinnacle of private luxury. Guests are welcomed to the complex via a dramatic footbridge that leads to an elliptical lotus pond, suspended high above the verdant jungle canopy and the rushing waters of the Ayung River, before descending to the reception area.

Accommodations range from opulent suites to private villas with infinity pools that overlook the serene river. Fun fact: Julia Roberts stayed here while filming Eat Pray Love. The resort offers an array of unforgettable experiences, from whitewater river rafting adventures to traditional Balinese healing sessions at the Sacred River Spa. Dine at Ayung Terrace, which boasts innovative dishes showcasing seasonal, local ingredients and panoramic views of the lush gardens, river and jungle beyond. Plus, the resort is a 15-minute drive to Ubud.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan

Jalan Raya Sayan
Sayan
Kecamatan Ubud
Kabupaten Gianyar
Bali

The Edge

Perched between the cliffs and the sea, The Edge lives up to its name. The exclusive resort offers a selection of private villas, each with its own infinity pool and personal butler.

Unwind with a cocktail or a glass of wine at the Cliff Bar, where glass panels in the floor provide stunning views of the crystal-clear waters of the Indian Ocean. You can also relax at the Oneeighty day club, which features a glass-bottom pool that extends 20 feet (6 meters) beyond the cliff’s edge.The resort also offers a luxurious onsite spa and world-class dining options, including a candlelit dinner at chef Ryan Clift’s subterranean 22-seat The Cave restaurant, ensuring a stay that’s nothing short of extraordinary.

The Edge
Jalan Pura Goa Lempeh
Banjar Dinas Kangin
Pecatu
Uluwatu
Bali

Bali Private Beachfront Villas and Wellness Retreats

If privacy is your priority, consider renting a private beachfront villa. Many of these villas come with dedicated staff, including a private chef, ensuring a comfortable and luxurious experience.

For a wellness escape, it’s hard to imagine a better destination than Bali. Many luxury retreats offer personalized programs that include nutrition, yoga and meditation, all tailored to your specific needs. These offerings provide a holistic approach to relaxation and overall wellbeing, making Bali the ultimate haven for rejuvenation.

Locavore NXT

Fine Dining in Bali

Bali’s culinary scene promises a tantalizing array of flavors and settings, promising a feast for both the palate and the soul. One standout is Locavore NXT in Ubud, where chefs create dishes using locally sourced ingredients that celebrate Bali’s rich culinary heritage.

Another must-visit is Nelayan at the Belmond resort. Imagine your toes in the sand, the soothing sound of gentle waves in the background, while you savor a meal prepared by some of the island’s most skilled chefs.

Whether marking a special occasion or seeking an indulgent escape, these exceptional eateries promise moments of culinary bliss that linger long after the last bite.

Bali Luxury Transport

Getting around Bali can be an experience in itself. A private driver offers comfort and convenience, allowing you to explore the island at your own pace. And if you’re seeking something really special, sailing on a private yacht is ideal for exploring remote beaches and secluded islands.

Indulgent Bali 

In Bali, splendor awaits at every turn. With Bali Visa Pro, your journey begins effortlessly, allowing you to focus on the extraordinary adventures that await. From deluxe resorts and villas to exclusive tours and experiences, Bali promises a vacation like no other.

Whether you’re planning a romantic getaway, a wellness retreat or simply seeking life’s finer pleasures, Bali has it all. Remember, meticulous planning and expert services can turn a good trip into an extraordinary one. –Sadie Smith

Literary Destinations: Books to Accompany Your Travels

What to read on vacation? From Paris to Tokyo, here are some recommendations to immerse yourself in foreign cultures. 

There’s nothing quite like diving into a book that takes you to the very place you're about to visit — or are currently exploring. Literature has a magical way of bringing locations to life, adding rich historical context, cultural nuances and captivating narratives that enhance your travel experience.

Whether you’re an avid reader or simply just looking to deepen your connection with your destination, creating a literary itinerary can be a delightful way to enrich your journey.

Let’s explore some of the most enchanting destinations and the books that would be your trusty companions along the way. 

Paris, France
Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin

Ah, Paris — the City of Light, and an epicenter of art, culture and romance. Set in 1950s Paris, Baldwin’s novel Giovanni’s Room explores themes of identity, love and societal expectations. The story follows David, an American expat who struggles with his sexual identity. While his fiancée, Hella, is away in Spain, David begins an intense romantic relationship with Giovanni, an Italian bartender. This deeply moving story is a poignant and powerful exploration of the complexities of human emotions and the struggle for self-acceptance in a world that often demands conformity.

Italy
Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert 

Gilbert’s bestselling memoir, Eat Pray Love, is a captivating tale of self-discovery that takes you on a transformative journey through Italy, India and Indonesia. While in Italy, Gilbert immerses herself in the country’s gastronomy, savoring the flavors and traditions of cities like Rome and Naples. This book is sure to whet your appetite for the amazing food and cultural richness that Italy has to offer.

Florida
To Have and Have Not by Ernest Hemingway 

If you’re planning a trip that includes, perhaps, a three-day cruise to Key West, consider packing a copy of To Have and Have Not by Hemingway. Set against the backdrop of the Great Depression in the Florida Keys and Cuba, this gripping novel, written in the author’s simple and direct style, explores the economic struggles and moral dilemmas of its characters. And while you’re in Key West, be sure to visit the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum, where the legendary writer lived in the 1930s, or imbibe at Sloppy Joe’s, Papa’s favorite watering hole during his time on the island.

New York City
The Catcher in the Rye by J.D. Salinger 

Often included in American high school curricula, Salinger’s provocative novel The Catcher in the Rye explores universal themes such as alienation, identity, loss and the transition from adolescence to adulthood — all seen through the eyes of its angsty teenage protagonist, Holden Caulfield. Nearly all the landmarks Holden mentions as he wanders around Manhattan — Central Park, the American Museum of Natural History and the Met — still attracting visitors more than half a century later, and they play significant roles in the story.

Tokyo, Japan
Norwegian Wood by Haruki Murakami

Step into the world of 1960s Japan with Murakami’s coming-of-age novel, Norwegian Wood. This poignant tale of love, loss and self-discovery is narrated by 37-year-old Toru Watanabe, who finds himself transported back to his college days after hearing the Beatles’ song “Norwegian Wood (This Bird Has Flown)” while on a business trip. For an author whose stories typically exist between the real and the surreal, Norwegian Wood takes a decidedly more subtle approach, yet still showcases Murakami’s characteristically delicate touch.

Cape Town, South Africa
Disgrace by J.M. Coetzee

Set in post-apartheid South Africa, J.M. Coetzee’s Booker Prize-winning novel Disgrace focuses on the life of David Lurie, a disgraced university professor. After an affair with a student leads to his dismissal, Lurie retreats to his daughter Lucy's rural farm in the province of Eastern Cape. There, they experience a brutal attack that forces both of them to confront their vulnerabilities and the harsh realities of a changing society. The novel explores themes of power, redemption, racial tensions and the search for a new identity in a country grappling with its past.

Literary Wanderlust

These are just a few examples of the countless literary treasures that can enhance your travel experiences. By immersing yourself in the pages of a book set in your destination, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the local culture, history and stories that have unfolded within those very streets and landscapes.

But the allure of literary travel goes beyond mere reading. Many destinations offer opportunities to follow in the footsteps of your favorite authors, explore the places that inspired their works, or attend literary festivals and events.

So, as you plan your next adventure, be sure to pack a few literary companions — they’ll not only entertain you during your travels but also provide a perspective through which to explore the world around you. –Boris Dzhingarov

The Hidden Gems of Barcelona

Take a tour of the off-the-beaten path attractions in El Raval, the Gothic Quarter, Poble-sec, Gràcia and Montjuïc. 

Barcelona, the cosmopolitan capital of Spain’s Catalonia region, is renowned for its vibrant culture, art and architecture. But beyond the fantastical and incomplete basilica of La Sagrada Familia and historic Modernisme landmarks designed by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí, like Parc Güell, lie an abundance of less-familiar spots waiting to be discovered.

Barcelona’s Hidden Treasures 

While Barcelona’s main attractions are undoubtedly worth visiting, the city’s true identity lies in its non-touristy spots. From ancient Roman ruins to quaint local markets, a hidden gems private tour offers a glimpse into the authentic Barcelona that locals cherish.

Like in many of the best cities, Barcelona’s charm lies in its neighborhoods. Here are some of the best ones — and the lesser-known locales nestled within them.

El Raval: The Bohemian Quarter 

Sandwiched between the streets of Paralelo and Las Ramblas, El Raval is one of the most densely populated and multicultural areas of the city. Once known for its rough edges, the neighborhood has since transformed into a cultural hotspot teeming with art galleries, trendy bars and eclectic boutiques. It’s a place where old meets new, offering a rich tapestry of experiences for those willing to explore.

CCCB (Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona)

One of the sites worth visiting in El Raval is the CCCB, a complex dedicated to exploring contemporary culture through exhibitions, debates and festivals. Housed in a former almshouse, the building is a blend of historic and modern architecture. It’s an excellent starting point for those interested in the city’s vibrant cultural scene.

Calle Montalegre, 5 
Ciutat Vella, 08001

The Gothic Quarter: A Journey Through Time 

While not exactly under the radar, the winding alleys of the Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter) hold plenty of surprises. Begin your exploration at the landmark La Seu, also known as the Barcelona Cathedral. Wander through the narrow, pedestrian-friendly streets where layers of history, architecture and secluded squares dating back to the 15th century await discovery. 

Keep an eye out for a set of streetlights commissioned by the city council and designed in 1878 by Gaudí, one of only two works he created for the administration shortly after graduating as an architect from la Escola Tècnica Superior d’Arquitectura de Barcelona. 

Plaça dels Traginers

Stop in the early afternoon for a glass of vermouth in this plaza, where locals like to leisurely meet next to the ruins of an ancient Roman fortress. 

Plaça del Reí 

Kings Square is a tranquil square surrounded by Gothic buildings, including the Palau Reial Major, the medieval residence of Catalan counts and kings. The square’s understated elegance makes it a perfect spot to soak in the history and ambiance of old Barcelona. It’s thought that King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella greeted Christopher Columbus from the steps fanning out from the corner of the square after he arrived home from his first voyage to the so-called New World. 

Hash, Marihuana & Hemp Museum

Located in the former Palau Mornau, this niche museum covers the history of pot and hemp. Its permanent collection features around 8,000 objects related to cannabis cultivation and use throughout history, including medicine bottles, apothecary kits, paintings, pipes and film posters. Exhibits cover the recreational and medicinal uses, industrial applications, legislative history and horticultural aspects of cannabis cultivation.

Carrer Ample, 35
Ciutat Vella, 08002

Poble-sec: A Taste of Local Life 

Abutting Montjuïc hill is Poble-sec, which translates to “Dry Village” in Catalan because it lacked water until the late 19th century. This hood, with its signature sloping streets, combines a modern, lively vibe with Old World charm. It’s a great place to experience the everyday life of Barcelonians.

Carrer de Blai

If you’re looking for Barcelona highlights, head to Carrer de Blai, a street famous for its many budget-friendly pintxos bars. Pronounced “peen-choz,” the name comes from the Spanish verb pinchar, meaning to poke or stab. Sampling these small, skewered bite-sized snacks by hopping from bar to bar is a popular local tradition, usually enjoyed while waiting for dinner, which typically doesn’t begin until around 9 p.m. at the earliest.

Telefèric de Montjuïc Cable Car

For breathtaking views of the city, take the Montjuïc cable car. The journey offers panoramic vistas of Barcelona, the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding hills. At the top, you’ll find Castell de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Castle), a historic fortress with an intriguing past.

Gràcia: The Village Within the City

Gràcia was once a separate village before being annexed by Barcelona in the late 19th century. Despite its integration into the city, Gràcia has retained its distinct, bohemian character. Its bustling plazas and narrow streets are full of life, especially during the Festa Major de Gràcia, a vibrant local festival held every August.

Plaça del Sol

This lively square is the beating heart of Gràcia. Locals gather here to relax, socialize and enjoy a caña (a small glass of beer). Surrounding the square are numerous bars and cafés, making it an ideal spot to experience the neighborhood’s convivial spirit.

Plaça del Sol, 23
Gràcia, 08012

Parks and Recreation 

In a bustling metropolis like Barcelona, finding tranquil green spaces can be a delightful surprise. The city has several parks and gardens that offer a peaceful retreat from the urban hustle, many of which remain relatively undiscovered by tourists.

Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera

Perched on the port-facing slopes of Montjuïc mountain, the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobera offer a spectacular view of the city’s coastline and port. With over 800 desert and subtropical species of succulents and cacti, the garden makes for a striking backdrop and is the perfect spot for reflection and relaxation.

Carretera de Miramar, 38
Sants-Montjuïc 08038

Parc del Laberint d’Horta

Parc del Laberint d’Horta, Barcelona’s oldest historical garden, is a delightful surprise in the city’s Horta-Guinardó district. Situated on the former estate of the Desvalls family, it features an 18th century Neoclassical garden, a 19th century Romantic garden, pavilions with statues from Greek mythology and a cypress hedge maze, which explains the “Laberint” (Labyrinth) in its name.

Passeig dels Castanyers, 1
Horta-Guinardó 08035

Sant Miquel del Fai

If you’re planning to spend several days in Barcelona and are looking to explore something farther afield, Sant Miquel del Fai is about 45 minutes away. Built into the face of the Bertí cliffs, this ancient monastery offers stunning views of the Catalan countryside. Visitors can explore the main church, the chapel of Sant Martí and various other structures within the complex, including the Cova de Sant Miquel caves, which feature impressive stalactites and stalagmites.

BV-1485
Kilómetro 7
08416 Riells del fai
Barcelona

Gaudí’s Great, But…

Whether you’re wandering through the bohemian streets of El Raval or savoring the culinary delights of a hidden tapas bar, these lesser-known Barcelona highlights reveal a side of the city often overshadowed by its more famous landmarks. Your Spanish adventure awaits! –Natalie Howard

Descriptions of God’s Body in the Bible

From his massive member to a horned head, there are plenty of references to God having a corporal body in the Old Testament. Some shocking findings from “God: An Anatomy.”

Perhaps the most famous depiction of God is this detail of the Creation of Adam, painted by Michelangelo on ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

What does God look like? 

Most people nowadays probably fall into two camps: those who say God is incorporeal, an entity without form — and those who imagine him as Michelangelo painted him, a powerful if elderly man with a flowing white beard and a penchant for long white robes.  

Those who think of God as bodiless haven’t paid enough attention to their Old Testament, though. In fact, the first clue is right there…in the beginning.

“So God created mankind in his own image, in the image of God he created them; male and female he created them” (Genesis 1:27). 

That means God is humanlike — or should I say, humans are godlike?

It’s not so strange that God had a body. All his fellow gods did, from his competition in the Middle East to the pantheons of Ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome. 

Add up all the descriptions of God in the Old Testament, and you get a red-skinned, powerfully built older man.

So what does he look like? Take all the Old Testament mentions of God, add them together and here’s what you get, according to Francesca Stavrakopoulou in her 2022 book God: An Anatomy:

A supersized, human-shaped body with male features and shining, ruddy-red skin, tinged with the smell of rainclouds and incense. His broad legs suggest he was accustomed not only to straining, leaping and marching, but sitting and standing resolutely stiff, posing like a ceremonial statue. His biceps bulge. His forearms are hard as iron. There are faint indentations around his big toes, left by thonged sandals. Beneath his toenails there are traces of human blood, as though he has been trampling on broken bodies, while the remnants of fragrant grass around his ankles suggest strolls through a verdant garden. The slightly lighter tone of the skin on his thighs indicates he was most often clothed, at least down to his knees, if not his ankles. Minute fibers of fine fabric — a costly linen and wool mix — indicate that his clothing was similar to the vestments of high-status priests. His penis is long, thick and carefully circumcised; his testicles are heavy with semen. His stomach is swollen with spiced meat, bread, beer and wine. The chambers of his heart are deep and wide. His fingers are stained with an expensive ink, and there are remnants of clay under his fingernails. On his arms are faint scars left from the grazes of giant fish-scales, and the crooks of his elbows, slightly sticky with a salty oil, bear the imprint of swaddling bands, suggesting he has cradled newborn babies. Traces of the tannery fluid used by hide-workers wind in a stripe around his left arm and down to the palm of his hand — a residual substance left by a long leather tefillin strap.

His thick hair is oiled with a sweet-smelling ointment, and shows evidence of careful styling: the hair-shafts suggest it was once separated and curled into thick ropes, while slight marks on the back of his scalp indicate it has been partly pinned beneath some sort of headgear, and his forehead is marked with the faint impression of a tight band of metal. Although his beard reaches beneath his chin, it has been neatly groomed, while his mustache and eyebrows are thick and tidy. The hair on his head and face shimmers — first dark with blue hues, like lapis lazuli, then white and bright, like fresh snow. And one glance, he has the beard of his aged father, the ancient Levantine god El; in another, it is the stylized beard of a youthful warrior, like the deity Baal. His ears are prominent, and their lobes are pierced. His eyes are thickly lined with kohl. His nose is long, its nostrils broad — the scent of burnt animal flesh and fragrant incense lingers inside them. His lips are full and fleshy, his mouth large and wide. It is at once the mouth of a devourer and a lover. His teeth are strong and sharp, his tongue is red hot. His saliva is charged with a blistering heat. The back of his throat is a vast, airy chamber, once humming with life. Below it is an opening of a cavernous gullet. Shadowy scraps of another powerful being, the dusty underworld king, cling to its walls.

The depictions of Yahweh in the Bible are disparate, but some common themes emerge.

Quite a picture, eh? All these details appear in various books of the Old Testament. Here’s a sampling.

God liked to walk in the Garden of Eden with Adam and Eve … before they dared to eat of the Tree of Knowledge of Good and Evil.

Walking and Talking With God

Later in Genesis, Adam and Eve have eaten of the forbidden fruit and hide from God when they hear him “walking in the garden.”

Enoch, Noah and Abraham go for walks with God as well — as did Moses. Sure, God showed up as a burning bush when they first met, but after that, “the Lord used to speak to Moses face to face, as one speaks to a friend” (Exodus 33:11). 

Yahweh first showed himself as a burning bush to Moses, but after a while they became good friends and would often take walks together.

Holy Shit! God’s Ground Rules 

With all that walking, God had to be careful he didn’t step in something unpleasant. 

When the Israelites flee Egypt en route to the Promised Land during the Exodus, God declares, “You shall have a designated area outside the camp to which you shall go; with your utensils you shall have a trowel; when you relieve yourself outside, you shall dig a  hole with it and then cover up your excrement, because Yahweh your God walks in your camp” (Deuteronomy 23:12-14). 

Apparently his omniscience doesn’t extend to knowing how to avoid excrement. It’s heartening to know that God steps in shit just like we do. 

The prophet Ezekiel saw God in a chariot supported by hybrid heavenly creatures.

The Cherubim Chariot 

After the Babylonians destroyed and plundered the Temple, the worshippers of Yahweh surely wondered if their god had also been vanquished. So the book of Ezekiel offers up a scene of Yahweh’s escape. He is seated on his supersized throne, using the Ark of the Covenant as his footstool (!). Cherubim (not the chubby baby angels you’re thinking of but four-winged celestial beings with four faces — that of a man, lion, eagle and cherub) perch upon wheels and bear the throne aloft. 

You didn’t want to be on Yahweh’s bad side; he was prone to violent reactions — including stomping people to death.

God’s Stomping Grounds

But God doesn’t only walk and rest his feet. Sometimes he goes on a murderous rampage. Yahweh marches back from a massacre in the enemy kingdom of Edom: “I trampled down peoples in my anger, I crushed them in my wrath, and I poured out their life blood on the earth,” he tells a sentry in Isaiah 63:6. 

“This is a god who has felt the crunch of bones and skulls under his feet; the warm, wet mulch of human flesh around his ankles; the heart spray of blood on his legs,” Stavrakopoulou writes.

In Isaiah’s vision of God, is that a massive robe filling the Temple — or something more phallic?

God’s Genitals on Display

A couple of prophets even boasted of seeing God’s oversized genitals — and yes, this is all in the Bible. Isaiah, in the middle of the 8th century BCE, entered the inner sanctum of the Jerusalem Temple, where he beheld a surprising sight. 

“My eyes have seen the King, Yahweh of Hosts!” the prophet declares in Isaiah 6:1. “I saw the Lord sitting on a throne, tall and lofty! His lower extremities filled the temple!”

But the Hebrew word he used for “lower extremities” was shul, which actually means “genitals,” Stavrakopoulou informs us. (It’s worth pointing out that many scholars argue that the word actually means the hem of a robe.)

So Isaiah is saying he saw God naked — and, um, let’s just say he was impressed. I guess we shouldn’t be surprised to learn that God’s hung. 

Another prophet, Ezekiel, describes a much stranger encounter: He sees God and focuses on what “looked to be his motnayim” — another Hebrew word for genitals, Stavrakopoulou writes. He looks above and below and sees the rest of the Lord’s body engulfed in flames (Ezekiel 1:27). 

I’m not sure why Ezekiel seems hesitant about if he’s looking at God’s groin or not — perhaps all that fire is blinding him a bit — but heavens knows Isaiah had no doubts about what he was seeing. 

The Ancient Egyptian god Min was usually depicted as having a massive erection.

‘The Imposing Erect Virility’ of the Gods

As shocking as this might seem, depictions and stories of gods having erections were common at the time these Bible books were written. A carving of the Egyptian god Min at Luxor Temple, for example, shows the fertility deity with a massive hard-on as he greets Alexander the Great. 

“In the ancient cultures of southwest Asia [Stavrakopoulou’s non-Western-centric terminology for the Middle East], a sizable penis, and even its occasional overt exhibition, did not render male deities less godly, but appropriately divine. The imposing erect virility of masculine gods was vividly celebrated in these ancient societies and the religious literature they produced,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “[T]he penises of ancient southwest Asian gods embodied a conspicuous and powerful hyper-masculinity deemed essential to the ordering, fruitfulness and well-being of the cosmos and its inhabitants.”

Cain, who killed his brother, Abel, might have been God’s son, not Adam’s!

Cain’s Baby Daddy Isn’t Adam…But God?!

Most of us assume that Adam and Eve had children — but if you look at the Bible, Eve declares that Cain at least was actually the offspring of her and God: “I have procreated with Yahweh!” she shouts in Genesis 4:1. 

“The more literal translation of the Hebrew is rarely seen,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “Most renderings of this verse default to a theologically fudged interpretation, so that Eve is merely presented as claiming that Yahweh has ‘helped’ her to ‘acquire a man,’ as any good fertility god might.”

Yahweh, like the Greek gods, who had sex with many unwilling women, could be prone to lust.

God as a Sexual Predator 

In the book of Hosea, God not only has a body — he actually gets it on with a young woman who’s the personification of Israel. 

“Here, Israel is a capricious teenager whose sexual allure so intoxicates God, he falls to scheming obsessively and possessively to make her his wife,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “‘I will take her walking into the wilderness and speak to her heart … and there she will cry out.’ 

“These words betray more than the romantic fantasy of a love-struck deity,” she continues. “God’s language here marks a shift from passion to threat: In claiming he will ‘seduce’ her, he uses a Hebrew expression more usually employed in the Bible to describe the rape of captive women.”

This idea of God as a sexual predator — or even just a sexual being — has been problematic for centuries, and that’s certainly true with our current sensibilities. 

“Theologically, the sexual grooming and graphic violence God inflicts on his young wife is immensely difficult for some modern-day believers to reconcile with their idealized constructs of God,” Stavrakopoulou says. “But for many Jewish and Christian readers, it is more specifically the graphic portrayal of a sexually actively deity that has proved unbearable: It has been mistranslated, dismissed as ‘mere’ allegory, or simply ignored.”

Foreign books are immensely dependent upon their translations — all the more essential for the Bible, a book so many people take literally. That’s what makes this softening of the original message so alarming. 

“In standard modern translations of the Tanakh [the Hebrew Bible] and the Christian Bible, the graphic sexual imagery of these troubling texts is softened or obscured with sanitized vocabulary and clunky euphemisms,” Stavrakopoulou writes. 

Yahweh knew Moses couldn’t handle seeing him all in his glory — so he offered just a peek of his cheeks.

God Shows Moses His Glorious Backside 

Up on Mount Sinai, Moses asks God to reveal himself: “How shall it be known that I have found favor in your sight, I and your people?” he asks in Exodus 33:16-18. “Please, show me your Glory.”

But God says that Moses can’t handle his awesomeness — he’ll only allow him to see his backside. It’s the same term used elsewhere in the Bible to describe the buttocks of an animal, according to Stavrakopoulou. 

God adds that no mortal could gaze upon his face and live. “In its narrative context, it is a capricious assertion, for Yahweh and Moses have already enjoyed a number of conversations ‘face to face’ — and Moses has survived,” Stavrakopoulou points out. 

Like other deities of the Middle East, Yahweh’s body is engulfed in a dazzling aura: He is “wrapped in light as with a garment” and “clothed with glory and splendor.” 

It’s all too easy to think of these descriptions as hyperbolic — but they’re meant to be taken literally, Stavrakopoulou asserts. 

Whether they were literal or beams of light, Moses came back from a convo with God bearing horns.

The Glory of God Makes Moses Horny

“In Exodus, however, God’s luminescent backside clearly gives off something more powerful than a wondrous afterglow. When Moses finally descends from the Holy Mountain, clutching the Ten Commandments, his own face is startlingly transformed,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “But quite how is a matter of some debate, for the ancient Semitic root of the Hebrew term used to describe this transformation probably means ‘horn,’ but is also associated with light. The earliest translations of this peculiar story indicate that, from at least the 3rd century BCE, Moses was understood to have developed horn-like rays of light, so that his face beamed with a divine radiance. Other ancient scholars would assume Moses’ face literally grew horns — a symbol of the divine elsewhere in the Bible — giving rise to startling medieval images of Moses as a double-horned being. Either way, Moses undergoes a bodily transformation so profound that the Israelites cannot look him in the face and are afraid to go near him. Moses’ visual encounter with God has left its mark on him, rendering him more divine than human.”

Poor Moses never entered the Promised Land — but was it God who took the care to bury him?

God the Gravedigger

Moses seems to have been the Old Testament character with the most face time with God. And that lasted right up until the moment of his death. The poor guy — being a favorite of Yahweh doesn’t get you much. Moses dramatically led the exodus of escaped Israelite slaves out of Egypt, delivered the Ten Commandments and wandered the desert for 40 years. Finally, the time has come to enter the Promised Land. But, in a shocking twist, God shows Moses the beautiful sight of their hard-earned payoff — and then tells him to literally drop dead: “Moses, the servant of Yahweh, died there in the land of Moab, at Yahweh’s command. And he buried him in the valley in the land of Moab” (Deuteronomy 34:5-6). 

“In the book of Deuteronomy, Moses’ gravedigger is God himself,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “Appalled by the idea that God could contaminate himself with the impurity of a corpse — even the corpse of so holy a man as Moses — some Jewish and Christian translators corrected what they perceived to be an error in the text: ‘he buried him’ simply became ‘he was buried’ or ‘they buried him,’ leaving generations of readers to assume that mourning Israelites or weeping angels had performed Moses’ mortuary rites, rather than God himself.”

Baal, one of Yahweh’s biggest rivals in the ancient Middle East

God Gets Horny

It’s an image that wouldn’t sit well with most modern Christians or Jews — especially given its connections to the Devil and demons — but one of the earliest descriptions of God describes him as having horns. “God, who brought [Israel] out of Egypt, has horns like a wild ox!” the prophet Balaam declares in Numbers 23:22. 

“In the Western imagination, a horned being tends to conjure images of the diabolical, and the grotesque. From the man-eating bull-headed Minotaur of Greek myth to the cloven-hooved goat-faced Devil of Christianity, horns have long served as a hallmark of horror,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “But in the world of the very ancient gods, horns were the most prestigious and alluring manifestations of divinity, and most deities would be equipped with them.”

Horns were a sign of power, designating that the gods who sported them “were beings of bullish virility and ferocious strength,” Stavrakopoulou explains. 

There’s a horrific description of a fiery God — right before he gobbles up a roasted king of Assyria.

The Nose Knows: God’s Wrath and a Kingly BBQ

“The God of the Bible was particularly proud of his nose,” Stavrakopoulou tells us. “In his lengthy monologue on Mount Sinai, he reels off a list of his best qualities, not only describing himself as merciful, gracious and abounding in steadfast love and faithfulness, but ‘long-nosed,’ too.” 

This is a way of saying he has deep nostrils, she says — meaning slower breathing, and by extension, being patient and slow to anger. 

But once that temper raged, you didn’t want to be anywhere near him. 

In the book of Isaiah, a seer spies Yahweh in the distance, his nose ablaze, “his lips full of fury, his tongue a devouring fire; his breath an overflowing stream, reaching up to the neck!” (Isaiah 30:27-28). 

What’s God up to? Oh, just sacrificing an Assyrian king upon a pyre and feasting on his charred corpse.

The ancient Levantine deity El

The Ancient Almighty: God’s Golden Years 

Our current image of God as a powerful older man comes from a portrayal in Daniel 7:9-10 from the 2nd century BCE. As Stavrakopoulou states, “God himself remains a picture of perpetual purity: Enthroned, in fiery splendor, and surrounded by thousands of divine courtiers, he is called ‘an Ancient of Days,’ dressed in robes ‘white as snow,’ with hair ‘like a lamb’s wool.’”

Again, this iconography is borrowed from neighboring deities, including El, whom Stavrakopoulou describes as Yahweh’s father — before Yahweh was retrofitted as the sole true god. El’s (and Yahweh’s) gray hair and beard were seen as signs of immortality and wisdom. 

Unseen and Unsculpted: The Theological Dance Around God’s Corporality

When thinking about this article, I realized something that shocked me: While I’ve seen a few paintings of God — Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel depiction of God (looking suspiciously like Zeus) reaching out to Adam springs to mind — I couldn’t think of a single sculpture of him.

Part of this is due to the fact that the mentions of God as having a body in the Bible make many Christians uncomfortable. They want the only depiction of God as corporeal to be that of Jesus. 

“Those troublesome verses in the scriptures attesting to God’s body would be smoothed, smothered or superseded by new interpretive frameworks and some fancy philosophical footwork,” Stavrakopoulou writes. “A favorite tactic employed by early Christian theologians was simply to reduce all biblical references to God’s body to the symbolic.” 

Even further back than that, after the Jerusalem Temple had been rebuilt in the 5th century BCE, Yahweh’s worshippers understood all too well the vulnerability and lack of transcendence of a corporeal god. 

It was around this time one of the Ten Commandments became “You shall not make for yourself a carved image.”

Once a vividly described giant, God lost his body. 

Are there few statues of God because one of the Ten Commandments forbids “carved images”?

And therein lies the main controversy around God: An Anatomy. The book has ignited a theological firestorm, dragging Yahweh off his lofty pedestal and into the gritty, grimy realm of human physicality. Some scholars are applauding Stavrakopoulou’s daring approach, while others are reaching for the nearest exorcism manual.

Biblical scholar Joel Edmund Anderson isn’t holding back. On his blog, Resurrecting Orthodoxy, he accuses Stavrakopoulou of having a “tin ear to the literary artistry and nuance of the biblical texts,” arguing that her interpretations are overly literal and lack proper contextual grounding. 

So, even though many Christians believe everything in the Bible to be literal, they prefer to skip over references to God’s form — it’s all too close to those pagan deities. Team Symbolic has won out; no one really talks too much about God’s body nowadays. It seems that the divine anatomy lesson is one lecture most would rather miss. –Wally

Museo de Málaga: Art, Archaeology and Awe

Explore the Malaga Museum, a tribute to the past that feels completely current in the Palacio de la Aduana. 

The Malaga Museum has an impressive fine art collection, including Gladiadores/La Meta Sudante (Gladiators/The Meta Sudans) by José Moreno Carbanero from 1882.

Málaga, one of the world’s oldest cities, isn’t short on sunlight, history or art. With its dizzying array of attractions, the city offers much to explore. The Centro Histórico, a pedestrian-friendly area, is home to many notable sites, including the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares (Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions), the Renaissance-style Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Málaga Cathedral) and modern art institutions like the Centre Pompidou Málaga. Nearby, the Alcazaba fortress stands guard on the hillside above a Roman amphitheater, connected to the Gibralfaro Castle by a fortified walkway.

The building that houses the museum is called the Palacio de la Aduana and was the customs house for the busy port.

History of the Museum of Málaga

A standout among these cultural treasures is the Museo de Málaga (Museum of Málaga). Housed in the Palacio de la Aduana (Customs House), this magnificent 17th century Neoclassical landmark is nestled between the verdant Parque de Málaga and the Ayuntamiento de Málaga (Málaga City Hall) in the heart of the Old Quarter.

Its construction was initiated in 1787 under King Charles III in response to Málaga’s growing maritime trade, and was conceived by architect Manuel Martín Rodríguez, who drew inspiration from Madrid’s palatial Real Casa de la Aduana (Royal Customs House). 

“With over 2,000 works of art and more than 15,000 artifacts in its archaeology collection, the museum offers a vast and captivating chronicle of Málaga’s history.”

Although the project actually started in 1791, it encountered several delays, including Napoleon’s failed attempt to conquer Spain during the Peninsular War, which pushed its completion date to 1829.

Nearly two centuries after its construction, the renovated venue reopened to the public, preserving the building’s original character while updating its interior to meet 21st century standards for accessibility. 

The museum unites the collections of the Real Academia de San Telmo (Saint Elmo Academy of Fine Arts) and the Museo Arqueológico de Málaga (Málaga Archaeological Museum) under one roof. With over 2,000 works of art and more than 15,000 artifacts in its archaeology collection, the museum offers a vast and captivating chronicle of Málaga’s history.

A mix of unmarked artifacts, including green glazed pottery and religious statuary, is displayed on wooden shelves inside the Visitable Warehouse section of the Museum of Málaga.

Ground Floor Visitable Warehouse

After paying the admission fee of €1.50 (approximately $1.63) per person, Wally and I began our visit on the ground floor with the Almacén Visitable (Visitable Warehouse), a storeroom of sorts, where objects are organized by time period and displayed in drawers and on shelves and wooden platforms. (It reminded us a bit of the ramshackle Egyptian Museum in Cairo.)

A collection of Hellenistic pottery, including terracotta heads, pig figurines and feet fills one of the display cabinets.

Among the artifacts were ancient vases, pots and fragments of centuries-old marble column capitals, feet, torsos and heads, displayed alongside 19th century oil paintings culled from the Fine Arts collection.

The warehouse is fun to explore, with its jumble of marble architectural fragments, a pair of Christ figures missing their crosses and a cathedral bell.

Look for the scale models, including one of the Roman amphitheater and (we think) the interior of Málaga Cathedral.

Wally and I oohed and ahhed over a scale model of the Alcazaba and Gibralfaro. In another part of the room, a glass display case held several devotional sculptures, including religious images of the Virgin Mary, underscoring the reverence and care with which these objects are treated.

A view of the palatial courtyard of the Museum of Málaga. The classical terracotta busts were added in 1885 to commemorate Queen Isabella II’s son Alfonso XII.

Central Courtyard 

Following our tour of the storehouse, we wandered through the expansive central courtyard, graced with palm and orange trees, a fountain and informational panels recounting the building’s history, including Queen Isabella II’s visit in 1862. Terracotta busts, added to honor her son Alfonso XII’s visit 23 years later, have adorned the uppermost balustrade of the courtyard gallery ever since.

When we visited, there was a special exhibit on the hometown hero Picasso.

Special Exhibit on Picasso

The port city is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and, during our visit, it was hosting the exhibition La presencia de Picasso (The Presence of Picasso) to mark the 50th anniversary of his death. 

A selection of lithographs from Picasso’s Faunes et Flore d’Antibes series at The Presence of Picasso exhibition.

On a separate note, the Museum of Fine Arts previously occupied the Palacio de Buenavista (Buenavista Palace), but it was unceremoniously packed up and placed in storage in 1997 to make way for the Museo Picasso Málaga (Málaga Picasso Museum).

Fauno Blanco Tocando el Aulós (White Faun Playing the Flute) by Pablo Picasso, 1946

The exhibition featured lithographs from the Faunes et Flore d’Antibes series and engravings from Deux Contes, both drawn from the Fine Arts permanent collection. Wally, a big fan of mythology (and the male form), especially liked the collection. 

A glimpse of what awaits you at the beginning of the Fine Arts section of the museum.

First Floor: Fine Arts

Upstairs (keep in mind that in Europe the first floor is what we Americans would call the second floor), the Fine Arts section covers a broad spectrum of 19th century artworks, including pieces by old masters like Antonio Muñoz Degrain, Bernardo Ferrándiz y Bádenes, Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada, José Gutiérrez de la Vega and Pedro de Mena, among others. It also features works by prominent members of the Málaga School of Painting, such as Alfonso Ponce de León y Cabello, José Suárez Peregrin and Pedro Sáenz Sáenz.

Los Saltimbanquis (The Acrobats) by José Suarez Perigrín, 1932

El Juicio de Paris (The Judgment of Paris) by Enrique Simonet y Lombardo, 1904

Después de la Corrida (After the Bullfight) by José Denis Belgrano, 1890

Estudio de Anatomía Masculina (Study of the Male Anatomy) by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Bádenes, 1862

Tarquin y Lucrecia (Tarquin and Lucretia) by José López García, 1988

Alegoría de la Historía, Industría y Comercio de Málaga (Allegory of the History, Industry and Commerce of Málaga) by Bernardo Ferrández and Antonio Muñoz Degrain, 1870

The first piece you’ll see as you enter these galleries is a maquette, a final study for the ceiling of the Teatro Cervantes by the Valencian-born painter Bernardo Ferrándiz. In 1870, he and Degrain were commissioned to decorate the theater. Ferrándiz depicted himself as Mephistopheles, the demon who barters for Faust’s soul, on the stage set. 

The female figure, possibly a symbol of the city, sits atop a shrine holding a caduceus— a symbol associated with Mercury, the god of commerce and prosperity. Other aspects of the city’s booming cultural and economic success, including agriculture, industry, transportation and fishing, highlight its strategic location as a trading port.

However, to me, some of the most interesting pieces came from religious institutions. Like the Museo de Bellas Artes de Córdoba, this museum’s collection includes significant works of art, images and architectural elements seized from the deconsecrated monastic properties, including the ex-convents and monasteries of the Poor Clares of Santa Clara, San Bernardo, La Merced and San Pedro de Alcántara.

Mudejar ceiling corbels 

Next, you’ll notice a set of four carved oak corbels, or brackets. They originally adorned the ends of timber beams in the Convent of La Merced and became part of the academy’s collections in 1915. These architectural elements illustrated the sins and vices parishioners were expected to renounce before entering the holy space.

Head of Saint John of God by Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada, circa 1755-1765

Fernando Ortiz y Comarcada’s sculptural style was greatly influenced by Pedro de Mena — in fact, for many years, this work was attributed to Mena. However, documents found for the production of four sculptures at Parroquia Santiago Apóstol in Málaga confirmed Ortiz as the artist. This head is the only surviving piece from that series, which was largely destroyed during the protests of 1931. An anonymous citizen saved this from the flames and left it at the parish door in a basket, ensuring that future generations could appreciate its artistic quality.

Ecce Homo by Pedro de Mena, circa 1676-1680

Throughout his lifetime, Pedro de Mena was in high demand, securing a steady stream of public and private commissions across Spain and Latin America. It’s believed that Ecce Homo came from the estate of El Retiro in Málaga and was first owned by Bishop Alonso de Santo Tomás, who hired Mena to carve images for his private oratory while the sculptor was working for the bishop’s order at the Monastery of Santo Domingo.

(Postrimerías) A Moro Muerto, Gran Lanzada, or (Dying Moments) Kicking a Man While He’s Down by Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes, 1881

This small painting might seem unremarkable at first glance, but it has an interesting story behind it. The artwork was inspired by an actual event that forever changed the artist’s life. Bernardo Ferrándiz y Badenes had a physical confrontation with Juan Nepomuceno Ávila, a fellow academy member, municipal architect and close friend of the Marquis of Salamanca. The dispute arose because Ávila denied financial support to the San Telmo Fine Art School, where Ferrándiz was the director at the time.

Ávila used the incident to have Ferrándiz expelled from the institution. Ferrándiz subsequently was accused of attempted murder and imprisoned. Although the exact details of the altercation remain unclear, the event left Ferrándiz shaken. The once-prominent artist faced social ostracism, which plays out in his artwork, where he depicted himself as the skeleton of a cat, with Ávila as a mouse. He inscribed the following on the frame: “Fierce king, yesterday I gave you my laws to respect, and today, with death upon me, even you come to trample the dust of what I was.”

Additionally, the museum has a small collection of Spanish modern art up to the 1950s, including works by José López García, José Moreno Villa, Juan Fernándo Béjar and, yes, Picasso. 

This Italo-Corinthian helmet most likely belonged to a high-ranking warrior. It was unearthed in 2012 by archaeologists excavating a site between Calles Jinete and Refino in Málaga’s historic quarter.

Second Floor: Archeological Section 

The second floor (third floor to you Americans) galleries focus on archaeology, with the first two rooms dedicated to the private collection of Jorge Loring Oyarzábal and his wife, Amelia Heredia Livermore, also known as the Marquis and Marquesa de Casa Loring.

The Lorings had a passion for antiques and collecting. One of their most important acquisitions was several pieces from the collection of 18th century Córdoban antiquarian Pedro Leonardo de Villacevallos, which included capitals from Medina Azahara, Umayyad-period tombstones and sculptural relics from Ancient Rome.

A collection of marble busts, and funerary plaques from the Villacevallos collection acquired by the Lorings

This 18th century religious sculpture, depicting the realistic severed head of Saint John the Baptist, is paraded through the streets of Málaga during Holy Week. 

A mosaic fragment depicting Priapus, the son of Venus and Bacchus. Commonly shown with a massive erection and basket of fruit, it’s no surprise he’s a god of fertility.

The remaining halls cover a vast historical timeline, showcasing how each civilization — from prehistory through the Phoenician, Roman, al-Andalus and Christian Reconquest periods — contributed to the city’s cultural mosaic. In recent decades, artifacts unearthed during construction and in excavations carried out by the University of Málaga have been added to the collection.

A detail of the center of a 1st century Roman mosaic depicting the goddess Venus surrounded by a menagerie of birds.

Speaking of mosaics, a 1st century floor panel depicting the birth of Venus, the goddess of love, sex and beauty, takes center stage in the museum’s Roman galleries. Discovered in 1956, it was found lining the floor of a Roman villa in the nearby town of Cártama. This impressive mosaic measures 13 by 20 feet (4 by 6 meters). It shows the naked goddess reclining on a giant scallop shell above a couple of dolphins.

The 2nd century Roman statue known as La Dama de la Aduana, discovered while digging the foundations of the museum in 1791, welcomes visitors at the entrance.

A Trip Back in Time at the Museo de Málaga

To sum up our experience, the Museo de Málaga was more than just a tourist attraction. It was a journey through epochs that celebrates Málaga’s multifaceted identity and enduring spirit. Its artworks and archaeological objects are well organized and clearly marked in both English and Spanish. As you walk through its halls, the city’s colorful history comes alive. –Duke

Museo de Málaga

Plaza de la Aduana 1
29015 Málaga
Spain

 

Las Setas de Sevilla FAQ: Seville’s Wooden Wonderland

Everything you need to know about the futuristic mushroom marvel Metropol Parasol in Plaza de la Encarnación.

One minute you’re walking down one of the shopping thoroughfares of Sevilla, Spain, and the next you come upon a plaza with mesmerizing, undulating woven wooden structures that look like a grove of gigantic mushrooms. It’s as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale (or a Dr. Seuss book).

That’s exactly why this quirky sculpture, officially named Metropol Parasol, will always be known as Las Setas, or the Mushrooms, to locals and tourists alike. (Sort of like how no one calls the iconic silver sculpture in Chicago by its real name, Cloud Gate — it’s the Bean.)

“It’s as if you’ve stepped into a fairy tale (or a Dr. Seuss book).”

Here are some of the most frequently asked questions about Las Setas.

Why is Las Setas called Metropol Parasol?

Las Setas (aka Setas de Sevilla) is officially named Metropol Parasol. “Metropol” highlights the sculpture’s urban significance and integration into Sevilla’s cityscape, while “Parasol” refers to its umbrella-like structure, which provides much-needed shade in the scorching Andalusian climate.

What is the history of Las Setas in Seville?

The history of Las Setas de Sevilla begins with the need to renovate la Plaza de la Encarnación, which had become neglected. (You’d never know it now, as it’s surrounded by boutique shops and restaurants.) 

In 2004, an international competition was held to redesign the square, and German architect Jürgen Mayer’s innovative wooden structure took the prize. 

The project, completed in 2011, aimed to revitalize the area by combining modern architecture with the preservation of historic Roman ruins found during construction.

Las Setas de Sevilla is more than just an architectural wonder; it’s a lesson in urban transformation. It’s about taking risks, breaking molds and creating spaces that blend the old with the mind-bogglingly new. Sevilla’s got its historical charms — but Las Setas shows it’s also got its finger on the pulse of modern innovation. The once-sleepy Plaza de la Encarnación is now wide awake. 

When was Las Setas built? How long did it take to build?

From groundbreaking in 2005 to its grand opening in 2011, Las Setas’ journey was more of a marathon than a sprint. What accounted for the delays? Blame it on the unexpected yet fascinating archaeological finds beneath its feet. Turns out, building over centuries-old ruins isn’t exactly a walk in the park.

What are the architectural ruins below Las Setas de Sevilla?

Beneath the whimsical wooden canopy of Las Setas lies a treasure trove of ancient history. As the construction for this modern marvel began, builders unearthed significant archaeological ruins, revealing Sevilla’s layered past. 

This subterranean wonderland, known as the Antiquarium, showcases remnants from the Roman Empire, including mosaics, pottery and foundations of buildings dating back to the 1st century CE. Visitors can also glimpse traces of a 12th century Islamic Almohad house, bridging Sevilla’s Roman and Moorish eras.

What inspired the design of Las Setas?

Imagine what would happen if the vaults of the Seville Cathedral and local ficus trees had a baby. That’s Las Setas for you — a unique design that not only catches the eye but also connects nature to urban life.

Mayer wanted the sculpture to be not only striking but functional. “How do you approach a space that’s supposed to become the revitalized heart of a city?” he asked in 032c magazine. “The biggest asset that one can have, for three quarters of the year, is shade. So we tried out different geometric ideas, and in the end we decided on these circular elements that counter and respond to the variables of the square in a flexible way. It doesn’t seem rigid.”

What is Las Setas made of?

Las Setas de Sevilla is made of laminated timber. It holds the honor of being the world’s largest wooden structure, crafted of pine from Finland and coated with polyurethane for durability. 

The intricate honeycomb design consists of wooden lattices draped over columns. More than 3,400 wooden and concrete pieces were fit together like a gigantic jigsaw puzzle.

Who knew a bunch of wood planks could look so cool?

How much did Las Setas cost to build?

The construction of Las Setas de Sevilla cost about 100 million euros — ballooning significantly from its original €86 million budget. This substantial investment covered the innovative design, the use of high-quality laminated timber and the various facilities housed within the structure, including an archaeological museum, a market and event spaces.

Can you go to the top of Las Setas in Seville?

Yes, you can go to the top of Las Setas.

An elevated 380-yard (350-meter) walkway allows you to saunter around and through the parasols, offering dizzying views of Sevilla’s classic rooftops and plazas. The walkway culminates at the topmost mushroom cap, almost 80 feet (24 meters) high, featuring a viewing platform where you can pretend you’re royalty surveying your kingdom below.

Visitors can access this area via elevators housed in the concrete columns of the structure.

How can I buy tickets for Las Setas de Sevilla?

Ready to explore this mushroom wonderland? Tickets to visit the top of Las Setas start at €5 (free for kids under 6), with options to add a sprinkle of virtual reality or a dash of audio guide to your experience for €3 each. 

You can buy them online, or onsite in the lower level.

What are the opening hours of Las Setas?

Las Setas de Sevilla is open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., making it the perfect spot for both early birds and night owls. Just keep in mind it’s closed on major holidays — because even mushrooms need a day off.

Where to eat at Las Setas?

The dining options at and near Las Setas de Sevilla are as eclectic and exciting as the structure itself. Here’s a rundown of some spots that range from casual bites to more refined dining:

1. La Mala Brunch: Located right under Las Setas, this gem serves up Mediterranean and healthy bites for a casual brunch or tapas session. Think avocado toast (with oversized wooden mushrooms).

2. Ibericos Vera: Right inside the Mercado de la Encarnación, this stall offers traditional Spanish tapas. Good for a quick, delicious bite.

3. Cervecería La Sureña: Serving up cuisine from the South of Spain, this bar is great for an affordable lunch or evening drinks with a killer view.

4. Tropiqual: Tired of tapas? If you’re craving sushi or steak, this upscale option works for when you’re feeling a bit fancy.

5. La Gorda de Las Setas: Offering Mediterranean and Spanish dishes, this spot is perfect for enjoying tapas with a side of architectural awe.

6. LaSanta: A short walk from Las Setas, this spot serves international and Mediterranean dishes in a casual setting.

7. Burro Canaglia Bar & Resto: Dishes up Italian food in a stylish atmosphere. Perfect for when you’re wanting pizza or pasta.

8. Patio San Eloy: A casual bar serving tapas. Great for a budget-friendly yet tasty meal.

9. Doña Encarna: This chic spot offers traditional local fare that’s even better than your abuelita makes.

10. Virgen Coffee: The best place to grab a quick coffee break, making some of the best lattes in Seville.

11. Tablao Flamenco Las Setas: Combine your meal with a show. Enjoy live flamenco performances along with signature cocktails and traditional Andalusian flavors for an immersive cultural experience.

What’s there to do at Las Setas besides enjoying the view?

Really, Las Setas de Sevilla is a cool urban square to hang out in, people-watch or read on a bench. Children ride bikes and clamber about the small playlot. 

But beyond its spectacular views, Las Setas is a treasure trove of history with the Antiquarium, where ancient Roman and Moorish artifacts are displayed. Tickets are €2.

And don’t miss the light show — a nightly spectacle that turns the structure into a glowing piece of rainbow-hued art.

Where is Las Setas located in Seville?

Las Setas is in the Plaza de la Encarnación, a central square in Sevilla. It’s about a 10-minute walk due north of the cathedral. 

What events are held at Las Setas in Seville?

Las Setas hosts a variety of events throughout the year, including cultural performances, art exhibitions, concerts and markets. The elevated plaza and the shaded areas below are versatile spaces used for different types of public and private events, making it a vibrant community hub in Sevilla.

Why was Las Setas controversial?

Las Setas didn’t sprout superfans overnight — it also grew a fair share of controversy. Critics argued that its modern design clashed with Sevilla’s historic aesthetic. Plus, the project’s high cost — rumored to hit the €100 million mark — didn’t sit well in a country there the economy was taking a siesta. 

And the local Muslim community thought the Mushrooms looked a bit too phallic for their tastes. 

Despite the initial pushback, Las Setas has ripened into a beloved icon of the city, showing that even the most divisive fungi can find their fan base. 

Las Setas: Sevilla’s Fungal Fantasia

So, there you have it — Las Setas in a nutshell. It’s weird, wonderful and unapologetically Sevilla. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture enthusiast or just someone in search of the perfect Instagram backdrop, Las Setas is a can’t-miss spectacle. –Wally

 

3 Killer Spots You Have to See in Death Valley

Death Valley National Park: Don’t let the name fool you! Witness life persist at Badwater Basin (North America’s lowest point!), see rocks defy gravity at the Racetrack, and journey through time in Mosaic Canyon’s vibrant formations.

Straddling the edge of the Mojave Desert in southeastern California and bordering Nevada, Death Valley National Park spans a whopping 3.4 million acres of untamed wilderness, making it the largest park in the United States outside of Alaska’s. 

And if you’re a fan of dry humor, you’ll appreciate that it’s the lowest and driest park in the country, getting less rainfall than your houseplant when you’re on vacation — just under 2 inches (51 millimeters) a year!

“Rocks drift across the flat desert landscape, leaving slug-like trails in the crust, without human or animal intervention.

Known as “sailing stones,” the rocks vary in size from a few ounces to hundreds of pounds. ”

Death Valley Comes Alive

The region got its nickname from a group of pioneers seeking a shortcut to the California coast. They became hopelessly lost in its unforgiving climate, and when they finally made it out, were quoted as saying, “Goodbye, Death Valley. “ The name has stuck ever since.

Despite its foreboding name and harsh conditions, the national park pulses with life. From snow-capped peaks to Sahara-like sand dunes, with vibrant wildflower meadows and winding canyons thrown in, the park offers a bounty of natural wonders. Keep your eyes peeled for roadrunners, often seen darting around Furnace Creek (though they’re not quite like the one famously featured in Looney Tunes cartoons).

Death Valley became a national park in 1994 and welcomes hundreds of thousands of visitors a year. Each corner of the park offers something different. There are numerous natural attractions, with ancient seas and lakes, volcanoes and warped mountains all sites that can be visited here.

With so many intriguing spots to choose from, which of its attractions should be at the top of your must-see list? Keep reading for my top 3 picks you won’t want to miss.

1: Badwater Basin

How low can you go? At 282 feet (86 meters) below sea level, Badwater Basin holds the title as the lowest point in North America. This incredible natural wonder is the remains of a lake that dried up tens of thousands of years ago.

The sprawling salt flats cover a jaw-dropping 200 square miles (500 square kilometers), shaped by seasonal flooding that deposits a glittering layer of sodium chloride (good ol’ table salt), calcite, gypsum and borax as the water evaporates.

The natural wonder got its name when a surveyor attempted to get his mule to drink from the small spring-fed pool near the boardwalk. The mule refused because of the water’s high salinity, and the surveyor marked the location on his map as “bad water.”

When Hurricane Hilary swept through the park in 2023, it flooded the flats, forming a temporary lake over the basin. (The park service reports that it has evaporated to only a few inches deep and is quite far from the road.) 

But even in the harshest of environments, life finds a way. The lakes attract some extraordinary creatures like the Devils Hole pupfish and tiny Badwater snail — fascinating critters that have made this harsh landscape their home.

2: The Racetrack

Among Death Valley’s mind-bending phenomena are the mysterious moving rocks of Racetrack Playa. This dry lakebed is tucked away in a secluded valley between the Cottonwood and Last Chance Ranges and spans about three miles north to south and two miles east to west. However, getting to this remote site is no easy feat and requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle like a Jeep to handle the rugged terrain.

Here, rocks drift across the flat desert landscape, leaving slug-like trails in the crust, without human or animal intervention. Known as “sailing stones,” the rocks vary in size from a few ounces to hundreds of pounds. The phenomenon baffled geologists for years and has only recently been attributed to infrequent freeze-thaw conditions. It was previously thought to occur as a result of Earth’s magnetic field and, at one point, extraterrestrial mountain dwellers popping out during full moons.

Beyond the sailing stones, the Racetrack offers breathtaking views of the Panamint Range. Although the journey to reach this destination is long, the abundance of sights makes the trip to the Racetrack an unforgettable adventure.

3: Mosaic Canyon

There are many canyons in Death Valley, but Mosaic Canyon easily stands out as one of the park’s most popular day hikes. Along its trail, you’ll encounter the mosaic conglomerates that lend the canyon its name. These formations, known as breccia, consist of shattered fragments of marble and dolomite fused together over millennia and embedded in the canyon walls, resulting in a stunning mosaic-like pattern.

Beyond these unique geological finds and breathtaking canyon views, a trip here provides the perfect opportunity for a challenging hike across the rugged terrain. However, navigating the canyon can be tricky, with twists and turns hidden behind giant boulders and apparent dead ends. So, if you’re seeking a hiking experience that keeps you on your toes, Mosaic Canyon is ideal — just be sure to bring along a map.

You’ll find the Mosaic Canyon trailhead near Highway 190, not far from the Mesquite Sand Dunes. This hike winds through narrow passages, around boulder obstacles and past some dry waterfalls. 

While the entire hike is less than four miles long, what makes it stand out is that you can tailor it to your liking, hiking as little or as much as you want.

Planning a Visit to Death Valley

Before visiting Death Valley, there are many important factors to consider. Research is essential, for, while some areas are suitable for all ages and abilities, others require experienced adventurers with proper gear. Check the National Park Service website for current conditions and updates. Areas of the park may be closed due to weather, road damage or construction. 

When is the best time to visit Death Valley?

I highly suggest visiting from November to March, when temperatures are more bearable. Camping and ranger-led programs operate from late October to late April, so plan your trip during this period if you’d like to participate in these activities.

Avoid hiking during the scorching summer months from May to September, when temperatures average 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 degrees Celsius). Most attractions are exposed, increasing the risk of dehydration and sunstroke.

What are the entrance fees for Death Valley? Do I need a pass?

The National Park Service charges an entrance fee and offers various passes, depending on your trip plans. Consider staying inside the park to spend less time driving in and out and to get the most out of your visit.

Is cell phone reception available in Death Valley?

Cell phone reception is limited in most areas of Death Valley. Download offline maps such as the National Park Service app or maps.me to help assure safe navigation.

What should I bring with me to Death Valley?

Create a checklist tailored to your visit and the season. Essentials include: 

• Maps 

• A portable charger

• Sunscreen

• Appropriate attire (hat, sunglasses, lightweight layers, breathable sturdy shoes or boots, and wool socks)

• Water

• Snacks

Death Valley: It’s not dead; it’s just waiting to be explored. Follow these tips, set your itinerary and be ready to be wowed. This park is full of surprises! –Isabella Hardy

 

Things I Love (and Hate) About Visiting Nice, France

A French Riviera vacation isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. From the good (Promenade des Anglais) to the bad (those rocky beaches), Nice isn’t always so nice.

La Fontaine du Soleil (Sun Fountain) in Place Massena, featuring the god Apollo, who had a penis reduction when local prudes complained about the size of his member.

Nice, perched on the French Riviera like a glamorous cat with its claws discreetly extended, is a masterclass in contradictions. It seduces visitors with sun, sea and effortless French charm…and then mischievously picks their pockets while they’re mesmerized by the view — metaphorically, of course! But hey, who doesn’t love a bit of drama with their vacation? 

FYI, in case you didn’t know, the town is pronounced “Neece.”

“Nice is like a stunning yet slightly eccentric aunt — you adore her, even when she spills red wine on the carpet or tries to set you up with her neighbor’s weird nephew or niece. ”

Let’s dive into the highs and lows of visiting this captivating coastal city.

Promenade des Anglais

Love #1: Promenade des Anglais: Where People-Watching Is an Olympic Sport

The Promenade des Anglais is Nice’s beating heart, a seaside catwalk of epic proportions. Here, everyone gets their moment in the Riviera sun. Picture lean joggers who might be training for their next triathlon (or planning a croissant heist), bronzed locals radiating an unattainable level of chic and confused tourists swerving to avoid rogue rollerbladers.

The iconic blue chairs lining the Promenade aren’t just for sitting; they’re front-row tickets to the greatest free show on Earth. From these vantage points, you can judge beach fashion trends, ponder the existential questions of life or simply chuckle at the antics of your fellow humans — all while sipping on an afternoon cocktail.

The beach is rocky — but still popular.

Hate #1: The Beach: A Masterclass in Foot Massage (the “Ouch” Kind)

Ah, the beach. You’re probably expecting the promise of soft, golden sand tickling your toes. Nice, however, delivers a crunchy symphony of pebbles instead. Let’s just say that the walk from your beach towel to the water’s edge could double as an audition for Riverdance — if Riverdance involved more wincing and less coordinated leg-flailing. 

Seasoned travelers might embrace the challenge, but the rest of us question our life choices amidst a chorus of muffled curses and grunts. You can always be a wimp and grab some beach shoes before you go; although the Fashion Police may be on to you quite quickly!

Old Town Nice

Love #2: Old Town Nice: A Time Travel Adventure

Vieux Nice (Old Town Nice) is where the city sheds its glitzy façade and reveals a delightfully dishevelled heart. 

Narrow lanes twist and turn, exuding an air of cheerful conspiracy. Buildings the color of faded sunsets lean towards each other as if sharing centuries-old gossip, while tantalizing scents of pain (bread) and ripe fromage (cheese) waft from open doorways.

The Cours Saleya market can often prove to be a lot for the senses. Mounds of jewel-toned produce flirt with glitzy flower bouquets, the only competition being the cacophony of enthusiastic vendors hawking their wares. 

It’s the perfect place to snag picnic supplies or simply soak up the kind of chaotic energy that makes a vacation memorable.

Don’t expect any deals in Nice — it’s a popular resort town, and the prices reflect that.

Hate #2: The Cost of Living: Nice Ain’t Cheap

This place, dear traveler, understands the phrase “location, location, location,” maybe a little too well. Even a humble cup of coffee comes with an invisible yacht surcharge. 

Be prepared to witness menus that induce mild heart palpitations, making you reconsider whether those stunning sea views are truly worth their weight in gold.

Fret not, though, there are ways to navigate Nice’s financial landscape. Embrace the picnic life, stock up on market goodies and consider pre-booking Nice airport transfers to avoid heart-stopping taxi fares. The views are still free — for now at least.

Nearby Saint-Paul-de-Vance

Love #3: Day Trips: Escape the Glamour Bubble (If You Want)

The true magic of Nice lies in its prime location. A short voyage reveals a myriad of delights. Questionably perched medieval villages spill down hillsides, tempting you with cobblestone alleyways and whispers of a charm seemingly long gone from the modern world.

The glitz of Cannes and Monaco gleams on the distant horizon, offering a peek into a world of designer sunglasses and yachts large enough to have their own zip codes.

Gorges du Verdon

And for a dose of raw natural beauty, the Gorges du Verdon provides a breathtaking playground for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts.

Nice is charming as hell — but expensive. And don’t get me started on the beaches.

My Love-Hate Relationship With Nice

Nice is like a stunning yet slightly eccentric aunt — you adore her, even when she spills red wine on the carpet or tries to set you up with her neighbor’s weird nephew or niece. 

It’s a place that will charm and disarm you in equal measure, offering enough material for hilarious vacation anecdotes to last a lifetime. 

So, would we go back to Nice? In a heartbeat. Armed with comfy shoes (especially the beach variety), a thirst for adventure and the finer things in life, and definitely a thick wallet. –Alphonse Dufresne

 

The Art of Olive Oil Production at LA Organic

From ancient groves to modern architecture: Take a tour of LA Organic, dedicated to the production of award-winning organic olive oils and co-founded by Philippe Starck.

José, Wally, Duke and Jo enjoyed learning about olive oil production at LA Organic — and tasting the goods afterward.

When I reflect on our time in the South of Spain, particularly our culinary adventures spent with our friends Jo and José, aceite de oliva, aka olive oil, immediately springs to mind — it’s essentially the foundation of Andalusian cooking.

“It takes about five years for an olive tree to mature. They typically yield between 33 to 44 pounds of olives, resulting in 2 to 5 liters of oil each year.”

Each morning starts with a humble piece of toasted bread, drizzled with olive oil and topped with grated tomato, to accompany a morning cup of coffee. Jo and José always had fresh molletes, a traditional ciabatta-like bread that they picked up from a local shop near their flat in Málaga. 

Not to mention boquerones, a shareable and delicious appetizer of tender anchovy filets marinated in vinegar and olive oil that we consumed with gusto — something my younger self would have ignorantly declined.

A view of Philippe Starck’s avant-garde La Almazara, a mill museum that was partially built when we visited

A Starck Contrast

During our visit to Ronda, after visiting the church of Santa María la Mayor, Jo and José arranged for the four of us to take a guided tour of LA Organic (pronounced like the Californian city). The artisanal producer in the Andalusian countryside is located about two miles (three kilometers) outside of the charming town of Ronda, and was originally established in the 1990s as La Amarilla. It has since developed into an impressive full-scale business.

This collaboration involves Spanish investment banker Pedro Gómez de Baeza, whose family owns LA Amarilla, French designer Philippe Starck, and renowned oenophile Michel Rolland. Gómez de Baeza and Starck met in Madrid during the opening of Beatriz, a former theater converted into a restaurant. The interior was reimagined by the designer, and the pair became fast friends.

The sunny yellow entrance to the Greenhouse at LA Organic features an oversized single green olive and leaf, the same design used on their packaging, which was created by Starck in 2009.

LA Organic: What’s in a Name?

The “LA” in its name refers to La Amarilla, one of the centuries-old fincas (farms) within the sprawling complex, where more than 200 years ago, a small sisterhood of nuns lived, harvested and produced olive oil from the fruit of its ancient grove, some 800 years old — a tradition that the Gómez de Baeza family continues to this day.

Part of the interior the Greenhouse will have you seeing red — an homage to the local passion for bullfighting.

LA Organic Tour

After pulling into the red dirt parking lot and stepping out of the car, we exchanged curious glances, and a smile spread across my face. In the distance, among the neat rows of gnarled, knotted olive tree trunks, stood a crane and a large cuboid building, with an expressive eye peeking out from its terracotta-colored façade — the avant-garde future mill and museum of LA Organic, designed by Starck. It’s officially called La Almazara (The Mill), but nicknamed “El Toro” due to the huge horn planned to be added to its exterior.

The four of us took the red dirt path leading from the parking lot to a bright yellow building emblazoned with a massive green olive, the same one that appears on its packaging. I would later learn that this building is known as the Greenhouse, but to my eyes it looked more like a barn. 

The back of the long, narrow Greenhouse has an outdoor patio.

Inside, we were provided with wireless headsets to help us hear our guide during the walking tour. We also watched a short video that recounted the origins of “liquid gold” in the Mediterranean and outlined the educational vision of LA Organic.

Once the video ended, our group followed our guide Úrsula outside. She began by telling us that the estates of LA Organic encompass 64 acres (26 hectares) and, in addition to the aforementioned ancient olive grove of La Amarilla, has over 6,000 different varieties of olive trees. 

There are art installations by Starck in the groves.

Duke and Wally loved the giant mirror on the grounds.

As we followed Úrsula through the groves, she explained that it takes approximately five years for an olive tree to mature. During this time, each tree typically yields between 33 to 44 pounds (15 to 20 kilograms) of olives, resulting in 67 to 269 fluid ounces (2 to 5 liters) of oil per year.

A rustic guardaviña, a stone building used for storing tools and providing shelter during the heat of the day, as well as protection from rain, stands among the olive groves.

Olive Oil Production at LA Organic 

We learned about the painstaking process of producing their exceptional organic olive oil. Úrsula explained that on harvest day, which would be happening in November, workers use 22-foot-long (7-meter) wooden sticks, known as a vareo, to beat the branches. Nets are spread beneath the trees to catch and prevent the falling fruit from landing on the ground, which would taint the harvest. 

This majestic, olive tree is the oldest on the property — ringing in at 800 or so years!

The olives are then collected from the nets, transported to the Almazaras de la Subbética, a mill just under an hour away, and pressed shortly thereafter to preserve the integrity of the flavor. This results in an olive oil with the lowest possible acidity, without any chemical additives or fertilizers. 

One of the varieties at LA Organic, the hojiblanca olive tree is typical of central Andalusia and is characterized by the white tone on the underside of its leaves. 

Like a Virgin

Seven organic varieties grown here are used for production, including the soft and fruity arbequina, grassy hojiblanca, briny manzanilla, peppery pajarera, slightly bitter picual (named for its pointy shape), herbaceous picudo and verdial. Rolland applies his wine skills to masterfully blend these varieties, depending on the desired intensity of the oil.

Like coffee and wine, weather, terrain and soil conditions play a crucial role in determining both the quantity and quality of olives at LA Organic, with the most fruitful groves cultivated in the fertile hills. 

Úrsula explains how drought has been a big problem of late, with decreased yields driving up the price of olive oil across Spain. (P.S. Using an umbrella is a good idea, with much of the tour exposed in the blazing heat.)

Dealing With Drought

Olive oil production in Spain dropped by about one-third in 2023 due to a prolonged drought caused by a string of heatwaves and nearly three years of reduced rainfall. 

As the world’s leading producer of olives and olive oil, Spain supplies approximately 40% of the global output, with around 75% coming from the Andalusian region. Jo and José told us that, with the price of this cooking staple increasing, locals had resorted to stealing oil from restaurants.

Úrsula explains how olives are processed at LA Organic using the cold press extraction method. 

More Than a Splash in the Pan

The tour culminated where it began, at the Greenhouse, with a tasting of their oils. LA Organic specializes in extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), which means that all their oils undergo a single pressing, using the cold-press extraction method. 

This process involves crushing the olives into a pulp while keeping the temperature no higher than 80.6 degrees Fahrenheit or 27 degrees Celsius (the “cold” part of the process), followed by centrifugation to separate the oil from the pulp. Lower-quality oils — those that aren’t extra virgin — are often crushed multiple times and at higher temperatures to extract more oil from the fruit.

How to Taste Olive Oil

The tasting session featured four different kinds of olive oil, which we sampled both with and without bread. Our instructions were to pour a small amount of oil into our tasting cups and swirl it gently to release its aroma. We lifted the cups to our nose and took a deep inhalation, noting the differences in smell between the mild arbequina and picudo, intense yet smooth picual, hojiblanca and arbequina blend, as well as the grassy 100% hojiblanca oil. 

Our tasting spread

When tasting olive oil, take a small sip and allow it to coat your mouth. Pay attention to the flavors and aromas present. It’s common to experience a peppery sensation in the throat, as well as notes of grassiness and bitterness, which are indicative of high-quality oil. 

Inside the Greenhouse, where you can taste the oils, order drinks and nibblies, and buy some bottles to take home.

We bought a couple of bottles of the milder LA Organic Suave and a bottle of organic balsamic with sherry vinegar to take back to Chicago with us. (We’re ashamed to say that the bottle of olive oil we purchased as a gift ended up being used in our kitchen.)

A corten steel structure featuring a square cutout frames a stunning view of the Grazalema Sierra mountains.

The Deets

I highly recommend a tour of LA Organic as a way to learn about the cultivation and production of Andalusia’s most important export. 

The walking tour and tasting cost $21 (20€) per person and lasted approximately 45 minutes, with an additional 45 minutes spent sampling their oils. 

Our guide, Úrsula, spoke both English and Spanish fluently. She was friendly, enthusiastic and patient, taking the time to share her knowledge and answer all of our questions. We left feeling inspired by their commitment to sustainability and were impressed by the quality of LA Organic’s olive oils. –Duke

LA Organic 

Carretera Ardales Ronda A 367
Kilometro 39,5
29400 Ronda, Málaga
Spain

 

Top 5 Must-Visit Attractions in Chennai

Take a leisurely walk on Marina Beach, marvel at Kapaleeswarar Temple, discover treasures at the Government Museum, unwind at Elliot’s Beach and spot wildlife at Guindy National Park — all in Tamil Nadu’s capital.

Aerial view of Chennai, India with the Kapaleeshwarar Temple dominating the skyline

Formerly known as Madras, Chennai, the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, is India’s fourth-largest city. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, the city serves as the gateway to South India and is as diverse and colorful as its namesake plaid. 

From the awe-inspiring 7th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, to bustling street markets and serene beaches, Chennai captivates visitors with its blend of rich traditions, old heritage and contemporary wonders. Be sure to add these five must-see locations, where natural beauty, history and one-of-a-kind culture come together to make for an unforgettable trip. 

Marina Beach

1. Marina Beach: A Haven of Serenity

Stretching along the Coromandel Coast, Marina Beach, or simply the Marina, is a popular spot, where both locals and visitors can enjoy the second-longest urban beach in the world. 

Looking out over the Bay of Bengal reveals a seemingly endless body of turquoise-colored water, while its eight-mile (13-kilometer) expanse of golden sand beckons you to take off your shoes and feel the waves lapping at your feet. But you shouldn’t plan on going into the water. This beach is only for walking — swimming is prohibited, as the undercurrent is considered too strong.

The Marina is also the site of a variety of festivals, delicious street food, and souvenir and handicraft shops. 

You can also explore Fort St. George, located at the north end of the beach. Historically known as White Town, it was built in 1639 by the British East India Company and served as the epicenter of the growing city of Madras. 

Fort St. George

Be sure to look out for the statue of Kannagi, the heroine and central character from the Tamil epic Silapathikaram, holding an anklet in her hand and demanding justice. 

Statue of the heroine Kannagi on Marina Beach

I recommend visiting the beach at dusk to enjoy the sunset or at dawn to see the sunrise, when the sky takes on an intense orange hue. 

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

2. Kapaleeshwarar Temple: A Sacred Architectural Marvel

One of Chennai’s most well-known landmarks, Kapaleeshwarar Temple is dedicated to Arulmigu Kapaleeshwarar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and his consort, Karpagambal, an embodiment of the goddess Parvati. 

The ancient temple is a testament to the city’s remarkable architectural legacy, combining elements of Dravidian and Pallava styles. You can’t help but be captivated by its monumental gopura, or main temple tower. 

The Kapaleeshwarar temple complex

At 131 feet tall (40 meters) the richly decorated structure is covered with vibrantly colored sculptures depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

Past the grounds of the temple, the winding alleyways of the Mylapore neighborhood provide a sensory adventure. Explore the lively marketplaces, where kiosks brim with brilliantly colored fabrics, traditional handicrafts and aromatic spices.

The Neo-Mughal façade of the Government Museum in Chennai

3. Government Museum: A Trove of Cultural Treasures

The Government Museum complex has an impressive collection of artifacts and sculptures from the major South Indian periods, ranging from 2nd century BCE Buddhist sculptures to 16th century work from the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar. Each exhibit reveals an intriguing story as you meander through the galleries, illuminating the customs, artistic expressions and lifestyles of those who formerly inhabited this part of the country.

13th century bronze statue of Ardhanarishvara at the Government Museum

Its collection of coins, ceramics and other antiquities provides a window into the region’s rich past. Especially breathtaking are the magnificent bronze sculptures produced during the Chola dynasty. Their exquisite craftsmanship depicts gods and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon, including the striking bronze of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.

Ellitot’s Beach

4. Elliot’s Beach: A Peaceful Spot to Reset

Named after the colonial-era magistrate Edward Francis Elliot, the laidback Elliot’s Beach offers a tranquil escape from the crowds of Marina Beach. This peaceful retreat can be found in the upscale Besant Nagar residential neighborhood and is a favorite hangout for locals, particularly the younger crowd.

The soothing sounds of lapping waves and refreshing ocean breeze will instantly calm your senses as you approach this serene stretch of sand. In often-hectic India, you’ll welcome the opportunity to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. It’s a great spot to watch the sun rise, too.

For those seeking a more active experience, Elliot’s Beach offers a variety of watersports and activities, including surfing and kayaking. 

If the water isn’t your thing, there are plenty of cafés, restaurants and boutique shops nearby.

Karl Schmidt Memorial

While you’re here, stop and admire the gleaming white memorial dedicated to Karl Schmidt, a Danish sailor who drowned in the 1930s while attempting to save the life of a girl struggling against the tide.

Guindy National Park

5. Guindy National Park: A Green Oasis in the City

Amid Chennai’s bustling cityscape, the lush sanctuary of Guindy National Park calls out to adventurers and nature enthusiasts to experience the tranquil embrace of the natural world. The sounds of the city fade away as you enter the park, replaced by the soothing melody of rustling leaves and chirping birds.

A white peacock at Guindy National Park

Embark on a hike or bike ride along the network of well-maintained trails weaving through scrub and forest. In addition to the verdant foliage, keep an eye out for a wide variety of animals, including spotted deer, blackbucks, serpent eagles and Indian star turtles.

Chennai Central Railway Station

Natural Wonders and Historical Treasures: Something for Everyone

Chennai offers a variety of activities to suit every traveler’s taste. Whether you seek the tranquility of the sea or the bustling energy of its vibrant temple complexes, this captivating city promises an unforgettable time for all who visit. –Jonathan Rastogi