Epic Cycling Tours in South Asia: Explore India and Sri Lanka

Pedal your way through the Rajasthan desert, Kerala’s lush backwaters and Sri Lanka’s scenic tea trails for a biking journey like no other.

South Asia is a cyclist’s paradise, offering diverse landscapes, rich cultural heritage and unforgettable adventures. Combining India and Sri Lanka in one cycling tour allows you to experience the best of both worlds — India’s vibrant chaos and ancient traditions paired with Sri Lanka’s tropical serenity and natural beauty. In this guide, we’ll explore the highlights of cycling in both countries, the best routes and the ideal times to travel.

Cycling in India: A Journey Through Diversity

India’s vast and varied geography makes it a dream destination for cyclists. From the rugged Himalayas to the serene backwaters of Kerala, and the golden sands of Rajasthan to the Western Ghats, an India bike tour offers a glimpse into the country’s rich cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes.

Best Cycling Routes in India

Leh to Manali Highway

Highlights: This iconic route in the Himalayas takes you through high-altitude mountain passes, including Rohtang La and Baralacha La, with stunning views of snow-capped peaks and remote valleys.

Skill level: Advanced

Best time: June to September, when the passes are open and the weather is mild.

Rajasthan Desert Circuit

Highlights: Pedal through the Thar Desert, visiting historic cities like Jodhpur, Jaipur and Jaisalmer. Explore palaces, forts and vibrant local markets.

Skill level: Intermediate

Best time: October to March, when the desert heat is bearable.

Kerala Backwaters

Highlights: Cycle through palm-fringed roads, lush tea plantations in Munnar and tranquil backwaters in Alleppey. The route blends nature with cultural stops at temples and spice plantations.

Skill level: Beginner to intermediate

Best time: November to February, during the cool and dry season.

Goa’s Coastal Trails

Highlights: Discover sandy beaches, Portuguese-era churches, and vibrant nightlife while cycling along Goa’s coastal roads and forested interiors.

Skill level: Beginner

Best time: October to February, after the monsoon rains.

Cycling in Sri Lanka: The Island of Serendipity

A Sri Lanka bike tour offers a compact yet diverse cycling experience. Its scenic routes take you through tea plantations, ancient ruins, tropical beaches and wildlife-rich national parks. The island’s friendly locals and vibrant culture add to the charm of a cycling holiday here.

Best Cycling Routes in Sri Lanka

Cultural Triangle Loop

Highlights: Explore ancient cities like Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa, and Sigiriya. This route combines history with stunning landscapes and opportunities to spot wildlife like elephants.

Skill level: Intermediate

Best time: January to April and August to October, avoiding the heavy monsoon rains.

Tea Country Trails

Highlights: Cycle through the rolling hills and tea plantations of Nuwara Eliya and Ella, with stops at waterfalls, colonial-era towns, and scenic viewpoints.

Skill level: Intermediate

Best time: December to March, when the weather in the central highlands is cool and pleasant.

Southern Coastal Route

Highlights: Pedal along Sri Lanka’s pristine southern coastline, passing through Galle, Mirissa, and Tangalle. Enjoy ocean views, historic sites, and opportunities for whale watching.

Skill level: Beginner

Best time: November to April, during the dry season along the southern coast.

Knuckles Mountain Range

Highlights: Tackle the rugged trails of this UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its biodiversity and panoramic views. This is perfect for mountain biking enthusiasts.

Skill level: Advanced

Best time: February to September, avoiding the monsoon.

Planning Your Multi-Country Cycling Adventure

Best Time to Bike Through India and Sri Lanka

• Winter (November to February): Ideal for both India and Sri Lanka, offering cool, dry weather perfect for cycling.

• Early spring (March): Suitable for southern India and Sri Lanka’s highlands before temperatures rise.

Travel Tips for Cycling in South Asia

1. Visas and travel logistics: Ensure you have the necessary visas for both countries. Flights between India and Sri Lanka are frequent and affordable.

2. Bike transport: Many airlines accommodate bicycles, but you can also rent high-quality bikes locally in both countries.

3. Guided vs. self-guided: Opt for guided tours if you’re unfamiliar with local roads and terrain. These often include support vehicles and accommodations.

Cultural Highlights of India and Sri Lanka

• India: Don’t miss vibrant festivals like Holi (March) or Diwali (October/November).

• Sri Lanka: Explore local markets, enjoy a traditional rice and curry meal, and experience its Buddhist heritage.

Gear Up for the Ride of a Lifetime 

Cycling through India and Sri Lanka combines adventure, culture and natural beauty, offering a once-in-a-lifetime experience for any cycling enthusiast. Whether you’re climbing Himalayan passes, cruising along the Kerala backwaters or pedaling through Sri Lanka’s tea plantations, the journey promises unforgettable memories and unparalleled diversity. –Nel Duman

Top 5 Must-Visit Attractions in Chennai

Take a leisurely walk on Marina Beach, marvel at Kapaleeswarar Temple, discover treasures at the Government Museum, unwind at Elliot’s Beach and spot wildlife at Guindy National Park — all in Tamil Nadu’s capital.

Aerial view of Chennai, India with the Kapaleeshwarar Temple dominating the skyline

Formerly known as Madras, Chennai, the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, is India’s fourth-largest city. Located on the Coromandel Coast of the Bay of Bengal, the city serves as the gateway to South India and is as diverse and colorful as its namesake plaid. 

From the awe-inspiring 7th century Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva, to bustling street markets and serene beaches, Chennai captivates visitors with its blend of rich traditions, old heritage and contemporary wonders. Be sure to add these five must-see locations, where natural beauty, history and one-of-a-kind culture come together to make for an unforgettable trip. 

Marina Beach

1. Marina Beach: A Haven of Serenity

Stretching along the Coromandel Coast, Marina Beach, or simply the Marina, is a popular spot, where both locals and visitors can enjoy the second-longest urban beach in the world. 

Looking out over the Bay of Bengal reveals a seemingly endless body of turquoise-colored water, while its eight-mile (13-kilometer) expanse of golden sand beckons you to take off your shoes and feel the waves lapping at your feet. But you shouldn’t plan on going into the water. This beach is only for walking — swimming is prohibited, as the undercurrent is considered too strong.

The Marina is also the site of a variety of festivals, delicious street food, and souvenir and handicraft shops. 

You can also explore Fort St. George, located at the north end of the beach. Historically known as White Town, it was built in 1639 by the British East India Company and served as the epicenter of the growing city of Madras. 

Fort St. George

Be sure to look out for the statue of Kannagi, the heroine and central character from the Tamil epic Silapathikaram, holding an anklet in her hand and demanding justice. 

Statue of the heroine Kannagi on Marina Beach

I recommend visiting the beach at dusk to enjoy the sunset or at dawn to see the sunrise, when the sky takes on an intense orange hue. 

Kapaleeshwarar Temple

2. Kapaleeshwarar Temple: A Sacred Architectural Marvel

One of Chennai’s most well-known landmarks, Kapaleeshwarar Temple is dedicated to Arulmigu Kapaleeshwarar, an incarnation of Lord Shiva, and his consort, Karpagambal, an embodiment of the goddess Parvati. 

The ancient temple is a testament to the city’s remarkable architectural legacy, combining elements of Dravidian and Pallava styles. You can’t help but be captivated by its monumental gopura, or main temple tower. 

The Kapaleeshwarar temple complex

At 131 feet tall (40 meters) the richly decorated structure is covered with vibrantly colored sculptures depicting scenes from Hindu mythology.

Past the grounds of the temple, the winding alleyways of the Mylapore neighborhood provide a sensory adventure. Explore the lively marketplaces, where kiosks brim with brilliantly colored fabrics, traditional handicrafts and aromatic spices.

The Neo-Mughal façade of the Government Museum in Chennai

3. Government Museum: A Trove of Cultural Treasures

The Government Museum complex has an impressive collection of artifacts and sculptures from the major South Indian periods, ranging from 2nd century BCE Buddhist sculptures to 16th century work from the Hindu kingdom of Vijayanagar. Each exhibit reveals an intriguing story as you meander through the galleries, illuminating the customs, artistic expressions and lifestyles of those who formerly inhabited this part of the country.

13th century bronze statue of Ardhanarishvara at the Government Museum

Its collection of coins, ceramics and other antiquities provides a window into the region’s rich past. Especially breathtaking are the magnificent bronze sculptures produced during the Chola dynasty. Their exquisite craftsmanship depicts gods and goddesses from the Hindu pantheon, including the striking bronze of Ardhanarishvara, the androgynous incarnation of Shiva and Parvati.

Ellitot’s Beach

4. Elliot’s Beach: A Peaceful Spot to Reset

Named after the colonial-era magistrate Edward Francis Elliot, the laidback Elliot’s Beach offers a tranquil escape from the crowds of Marina Beach. This peaceful retreat can be found in the upscale Besant Nagar residential neighborhood and is a favorite hangout for locals, particularly the younger crowd.

The soothing sounds of lapping waves and refreshing ocean breeze will instantly calm your senses as you approach this serene stretch of sand. In often-hectic India, you’ll welcome the opportunity to slow down and appreciate the beauty of the present moment. It’s a great spot to watch the sun rise, too.

For those seeking a more active experience, Elliot’s Beach offers a variety of watersports and activities, including surfing and kayaking. 

If the water isn’t your thing, there are plenty of cafés, restaurants and boutique shops nearby.

Karl Schmidt Memorial

While you’re here, stop and admire the gleaming white memorial dedicated to Karl Schmidt, a Danish sailor who drowned in the 1930s while attempting to save the life of a girl struggling against the tide.

Guindy National Park

5. Guindy National Park: A Green Oasis in the City

Amid Chennai’s bustling cityscape, the lush sanctuary of Guindy National Park calls out to adventurers and nature enthusiasts to experience the tranquil embrace of the natural world. The sounds of the city fade away as you enter the park, replaced by the soothing melody of rustling leaves and chirping birds.

A white peacock at Guindy National Park

Embark on a hike or bike ride along the network of well-maintained trails weaving through scrub and forest. In addition to the verdant foliage, keep an eye out for a wide variety of animals, including spotted deer, blackbucks, serpent eagles and Indian star turtles.

Chennai Central Railway Station

Natural Wonders and Historical Treasures: Something for Everyone

Chennai offers a variety of activities to suit every traveler’s taste. Whether you seek the tranquility of the sea or the bustling energy of its vibrant temple complexes, this captivating city promises an unforgettable time for all who visit. –Jonathan Rastogi

4 Spectacular Historical Monuments in India — Besides the Taj Mahal

Take a tour of some lesser-known but utterly awesome temples across India: the Golden Temple of Amritsar, Meenakshi Temple, Palitana Temples and Birla Mandir.  

The majestic entrance to the Golden Temple in Amritsar. It’s time for the Taj Mahal to stop hogging the spotlight.

Ask anyone to name one thing they know about India and you’re likely to hear the same thing every time: the Taj Mahal.

The Taj Mahal is beautiful — but isn’t by any means the only impressive site to see in India.

Built between 1631 and 1648 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a testament to his love for his favorite wife, this iconic tourist attraction is as synonymous with India as the Eiffel Tower is with Paris, and Big Ben is with London. But amidst the understandable fanfare, travelers to India may be overlooking a host of other exciting historical monuments.

Here are four of the most beautiful and culturally significant locations in India — other than that famous marble mausoleum. One thing all these sites have in common: They’re some of the most underappreciated monuments in the country.

The Golden Temple

Location: Amritsar, Punjab

History: Completed in 1589, this iconic structure stands as a symbol of immense significance for Sikhism. As the name suggests, the temple is adorned with a resplendent golden coating — at least since 1830, when Maharaja Ranjit Singh overlaid the sanctum with gold leaf. Located in the city of Amritsar, the Golden Temple is surrounded by the tranquil Sarovar, a sacred pool of holy water.

Why it’s so cool: The temple’s exquisite architecture and serene ambiance pair with harmonious prayers and hymns to create a soul-stirring experience. 

Fun fact: The Golden Temple is not only a place of worship but also a symbol of equality and community service. The temple houses the world’s largest community kitchen, called the Langar, where volunteers serve free meals to thousands of visitors daily, regardless of their caste, religion or social status. This inspiring tradition embodies the core values of Sikhism, emphasizing equality, compassion and selfless service.

Travel tip: Consider joining one of the escorted tours that traverse the northern regions of India. Amritsar is well-connected and can be easily reached by various means of transportation. 

While visiting the Golden Temple, it’s advised to dress modestly and for women to cover their head as a sign of respect. Before entering the temple complex, take a moment to cleanse your feet at the designated washing area as a ritualistic purification.

Meenakshi Temple

Location: Madurai, Tamil Nadu

History: Step into a world where ancient legends and vibrant hues intertwine at the awe-inspiring Meenakshi Temple. The roots of this remarkable monument stretch back to the 6th century, when an ancient temple first graced this sacred site. Between 1190 and 1205, the current Meenakshi Temple was built, incorporating and expanding upon its historical foundations. 

Why it’s so cool: While the Taj is serene and understated, Meenakshi has an enchanting kaleidoscope of colors that adorn its 14 gopurams. These towering pyramidal structures, perched over the temple entrances, are resplendent with 3,000-some intricate carvings and statues, from celestial deities to mythical creatures.

Fun fact: The temple is not only dedicated to Meenakshi (an avatar of Parvati, the Hindu goddess of love, beauty and fertility), but also Sundareshwarar, an avatar of her consort, Lord Shiva. The complex houses shrines for both deities, symbolizing the divine union of feminine and masculine energies.

Travel tip: From Madurai Junction Railway Station, it’s a 10-minute walk to the temple grounds. Again, dress respectfully. Consider engaging a guide who can illuminate the temple’s fascinating history, legends and the symbolic significance behind its vibrant colors.

Palitana Temples

Location: Shatrunjaya hills near Palitana in Bhavnagar district, Gujarat

History: Nestled amidst the hills of Gujarat, the Palitana Temples comprise a colossal collection of over 800 sacred buildings that dot the mountainous landscape. These temples, built around the 11th century, hold immense significance for followers of Jainism, drawing thousands of pilgrims from around the world who embark on a spiritual journey of devotion and enlightenment.

Why they’re so cool: Prepare to be awestruck by the sheer magnitude of the Palitana Temples, as they create an ethereal landscape of spirituality and architectural splendor. The journey to these sacred shrines is a testament to the unwavering faith of Jain followers, who ascend a staggering 3,500 steps to reach the base of the temples. The sight of hundreds of temples scattered across the hills creates a mesmerizing panorama that is truly awe-inspiring.

Fun fact: Palitana holds the distinction of being the world’s largest cluster of Jain temples. This extraordinary complex is a sanctuary for Jain devotees, with each temple showcasing intricate carvings, vibrant colors, and architectural marvels. The temples serve as a testament to the spiritual devotion of the Jain community and provide a serene sanctuary for introspection and reverence.

Travel tip: The temples can be conveniently accessed by taking the Western Railway line from major cities like Delhi, Chennai and Kolkata. The nearest cities, Ahmedabad and Bhavnagar, located approximately 25 kilometers away, offer transportation connections to Palitana. 

Be prepared for the ascent to the temples by wearing comfortable shoes and carrying water. If climbing the stairs is not an option, you can hire a palanquin in the town at the base of the hills and get carried up. 

Birla Mandir Kolkata

Location: Ashutosh Chowdhury Avenue, Kolkata, West Bengal

History: The illustrious Birla family commissioned the temple, which was constructed from 1970 to 1996. Carved out of pristine white marble and sandstone, this architectural gem emanates a celestial radiance when the midday sun casts its rays upon it. A symbol of devotion and artistic brilliance, Birla Mandir stands as another testament to India’s rich religious heritage.

Why it’s so cool: Venture inside to discover a realm of intricate statues and carvings dedicated to Hindu avatars of the god Vishnu, such as Lord Krishna and Radha. The exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail bring these divine figures to life, evoking a sense of reverence and spiritual tranquility.

Fun fact: Across India, there are 14 temples bearing the name Birla Mandir. Each is a testament to the philanthropic efforts of the Birla family, who have contributed significantly to the construction of these sacred spaces. However, the Kolkata Mandir stands out as a pinnacle of aesthetic beauty. Just make sure you’re planning to visit the right one!

Travel tip: You can easily reach the temple by taxi or bus tour from the city. Remember to dress modestly when entering the temple. And be aware that the temple is closed for much of the day. Go early or go late: It opens from 5:30 a.m. to 11 a.m., then closes. It reopens in the evening, from 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. 

A carving of Virabhadra, a fierce form of the god Shiva, as part of the crowded and colorful façade of Meenakshi Temple

India, Beyond the Taj Mahal

While I wholeheartedly recommend experiencing the majestic beauty of the Taj Mahal during your sojourn in India, turning a blind eye to these other captivating destinations would be nothing short of a crime. These lesser-known gems deserve a spot on your travel bucket list. –Andrew Ellison

Indian Handicrafts Meet Modern Design: A Q&A With Harpreet Padam

Traditional techniques inform modern consumer products — all within the framework of the Indian aesthetic. 

Harpreet Padam of Unlike Design Co. explains a detail to some of the artisans he collaborates with.

Scrolling through Instagram (one of my favorite hobbies), I was instantly impressed by the well-curated feed of Harpreet Padam (@generalaesthetic). It features images of places and objects found or designed by him. 

Recently, I saw a post featuring an article Harpreet wrote for Big Little Things, a magazine that celebrates thoughtful design and living. In the article, Harpreet describes his lifelong love for traditional Indian handicrafts and his collection of childhood objects filled with special memories and their influence on his designs. 

“A better, exclusive understanding of Indian-ness is something I really strive for through my work.”

— Harpreet Padam, co-founder, Unlike Design Co.

Harpreet is the co-founder of Unlike Design Co., and his creations include the Petal series of tea scoops that have an organic feel to them and were developed in collaboration with woodworkers from Udayagiri, Andhra Pradesh, India. His Bidriware is produced by craftspeople in Bidar, Karnataka. And I’m particularly partial to the miniature houses inspired by the vernacular architecture of Srinagar, Kashmir. 

We were thrilled to connect with Harpreet, who shared a bit about his influences, design background, favorite objects and the enduring legacy of artisans. –Duke

Tell us about your design background.

Honestly, the impulse to study design came about for me by a poster I found in an apartment that the previous tenant, a furniture designer, had left behind. It was a neat collage of industrial design works by the French architect and designer Marc Held. I still have the poster and keep in touch with Marc every now and then. 

I went on to study at the then very respected accessory design department of the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi. 

After graduating, I worked for six years as a designer, then design head at a fashion accessory firm in Bangalore. It was a wonderful team, and I got the opportunity to design jewelry, home products, store windows, brochures and even a store interior. 

 Eventually, I was drawn to packaging and graphic design for Indian fashion brands. My partner, Lavanya, and I established our studio Unlike Design Co. — first in Bangalore, and now in New Delhi. We do a mix of projects, ranging from home accessories, craft-based objects, graphics and packaging. Both of us also teach at various design schools across India. 

Harpreet looks to traditional Indian culture to create a new, non-Westernized take on contemporary design.

How would you describe your design philosophy?

I look at design as very closely related to business and culture. The experience and understanding of the client as well as the softer nuances within the lives of the user influence my thinking greatly. 

A better, exclusive understanding of Indian-ness is something I really strive for through my work. 

I am also always thinking about how the words “modern” and “contemporary” apply to India and our people. The way designers like myself have been trained and the early influences we have developed as a result of that, our understanding of these words has been shaped largely from a Western viewpoint. My mind struggles to think afresh as an Indian living and working amongst the Indian masses — I think this struggle forms an important part of my design philosophy.

What are some of your favorite objects that you’ve picked up on your travels? Why are these important to you?

 I really like this set of wire puzzles we picked up on the Ganges riverside in Varanasi. The man who sold them used to make them himself. The puzzles range from simple to sheer mind-benders. On subsequent visits, I couldn’t find the man again, and the pieces I had bought earlier became more special.

Harpreet picks up keepsakes on his travels, like these wire puzzles bought along the Ganges in Varanasi.

Then there is this block of wood which I found in a wood turner’s workshop in Kashmir. It’s some sort of a shaping tool, though the artisan was using it as a seat. According to the family, it is very old and made of a rare hardwood exclusive to Kashmir — I forget the name now. I think I enjoyed its multipurpose perception and its naturally aged look. 

Hapreet found this shaped wood block at a workshop in Kashmir.

There are so many more things, found by the roadside, in hardware stores, in people’s homes, rejects during workshops. Lavanya and I collect a lot of such things, get really attached to them, and end up filling cupboards and boxes to the brim.

Artisan Khatoon Bi uses her hands as well as her feet to carve a Petal teaspoon for the Udayagiri wooden cutlery collection.

Who are some of the artisans you work with?

At the moment, I am working with embroiderers, woodcarvers and papier-mâché makers in Kashmir. I also work with a family of Bidriware makers and a community of women cutlery carvers in South India.

A Kashmiri woodcarver’s workshop

What appeals to you about traditional handicrafts?

I enjoy the struggle of aiming to create a kind of new relevance. In the past, a lot of traditional handicrafts were seamlessly integrated into the lives of their users — through intelligent combinations of their function, appearance, significance. Artisans nowadays are a bit detached from a firsthand understanding of consumer lifestyles — sometimes even within their local environments. 

I like the attempt of acting to bridge this understanding — just nudging and guiding a bit. It’s magic to witness an artisan thinking for him- or herself about a new product. And they do it more intuitively than designers. It’s also design, I guess, helping someone with the confidence to think for themselves.

Master craftsman Abdul Rauf works with Harpreet on the Bidriware product line.

Another important thing for me is changing perceptions about traditional handicrafts, especially for young design students, who find the whole subject boring and stuffy. I think I’m able to achieve this to some extent when I teach my craft-based design course at the National Institute of Fashion Technology. 

Prototypes for Unlike’s Srinagar Houses

How have you given traditional handicrafts a modern twist, as in your Srinagar Houses miniatures?

I didn’t have to do much more than spot significant details of old Srinagar houses that stood out for me. And this happens naturally when you visit Kashmir — the older architecture stands in sharp contrast to the more universal style of building prevalent now. 

So I simply made small models of what I saw, and the artisans improved upon it with their own thoughts. Though we did attempt to paint details of windows and brickwork onto the houses, eventually we left them gray. 

The minimalism of the Srinagar Houses lends them a modern feel.

I was inspired to do this by a conversation with one of the traditional artists, who was joking when he said it’s better not to paint windows and doors since the Kashmiri people are almost always under curfew and house arrest. I think that stark grayness, coupled with strong architectural features, gives them a modern feel.

Architecture like this in Bidar helped inspired Unlike’s Bidriware.

What have been your biggest influences as an artist?

Most of all, I think it’s the opportunity of traveling and meeting varied places and people. And then I think it’s also an equilibrium of mish-mash from films, magazines, books, writings and work of designers, artists, filmmakers and the like. 

I spent my late school years studying in and around Corbusier’s Chandigarh and that did affect my view on architecture and design, in a deep way that’s hard to describe. 

I also really admire the writings of the late Italian designer Ettore Sottsass and the work of Vico Magistretti, his fellow designer of the time. 

And then Indian cinema of the 1980s and early ’90s — such films as Ek Doctor Ki Maut by Tapan Sinha, Aakrosh and Ardh Satya by Govind Nihalani, Mathilukal by Adoor Gopalakrishnan and Sadma by Balu Mahendra. I wish my work could imbibe that level of starkness in thought, the honesty and courage to address issues head on — even in commercial products and the way they are made.    

Traditional techniques are used to create the Convention vases in Unlike’s Bidriware line.

Explain some of your favorite traditional techniques, and how you’ve applied them to your work, as in your Bidriware series.

In Bidriware, I think I’m still learning more about the possibility of techniques. In my last extended interaction, I enjoyed learning about the hollow-core casting technique. Unlike many Bidriware objects, this technique does not weld two symmetrical halves to create a hollow object, which is a simple but crude way to do it. The method employs sand casting to achieve a completely hollow form, without visible joints. 

Moreover, the artisan I have been working with is extremely skilled at creating hollow molds out of solid forms — it is magic watching him employ decades of skill and dexterity in the few moments it takes to achieve this. 

I used both these specialities of the artisan for a series of flower vases called Convention.

Share something that you think would only happen in India.

Oh, our roads. The astonishing synchronicity of traffic, animals and people moving in any and all directions of their choosing. I’m not sure any other country can match that.

Kanyakumari and the Healing Waters of Cape Cormorin

A Kovalam day trip to the southern tip of India will wash away your sins.

The restaurants in Varkala, another day trip from Kovalam, put their fresh catches on display

Who wouldn’t want the opportunity to spiritually cleanse themselves with a quick dip?

Our friend Kelly visited the beach town of Kovalam in the state of Kerala, India. Her new friends from a yoga retreat kept talking about a day trip to the southern tip of the county and bathing in the spiritually healing waters found there.

“I took one look, and said, “I’m going to get like 15 different flesh-eating bacteria if I go into this water.” ”

Kanyakumari is where three bodies of water meet: the Bay of Bengal, the Indian Ocean and the Arabian Sea. The spot is also referred as Thriveni Sangamam and amongst English speakers as Cape Comorin. It’s about a two-hour and 45-minute drive down from Kovalam. –Wally

Tell us about the day trips you took from Kovalam.

We went to Varkala, which is an hour and a half north of Kovalam. It has a similar vibe, but it skews much younger. Kovalam seems like a place where older people come to retreat.

Varkala has a similar beachy, hippie vibe as Kovalam but skews younger

We also went to the southern tip of India, Kanyakumari. We visited Suchindram Temple and a couple other touristy things. The temple was white and had seven windows to symbolize the different stages of enlightenment.

Include Suchindram Temple on a day trip to Kanyakumari

There’s this idea that if you bathe in the waters of Kanyakumari, you’ll be cleansed of your sins. I was with a bunch of super granola, hardcore yogis, and they were so all about getting in this water. I took one look, and said, “I’m going to get like 15 different flesh-eating bacteria if I go into this water.” There were tons of people there, and the water smelled bad.

The Thiruvalluvar Statue on a small island off of Kanyakumari depicts a famous Tamil poet and philosopher. He is best known for Thirukkural, a collection of couplets on ethics, politics, economics and love. His statue is 133 feet tall — the same number of chapters in his famous tome

So you didn’t end up getting in the water?

Well…they ended up talking me in. Very reluctantly, I finally got in.

Three bodies of water converge at Kanyakumari, and local lore has it that you can wash away your sins by swimming here

That’s called hippie peer pressure.

I wouldn’t put my head in. They were like, “No, you have to — otherwise your sins won’t be cleansed!” And I was like, “I’m good.”

We were pretty much the only white tourists there. A large crowd of men gathered around the area where my friends and I were bathing. People were taking videos and photos.

Did you find that people were fascinated with you as a white woman?

Everyone wanted to take a selfie with me. I’m on so many random people’s cell phones and Facebook pages.

At one point, I decided that I was sick of everybody looking at us, so I took pictures of them.

Ayurvedic Treatment in Kovalam

Our correspondent undergoes bizarre and intense Ayurveda practices in South India.

Ayurveda treatments often involve an oil that smells like peanut butter, and they can be quite intense

The more I heard about Ayurveda, the more intrigued I became. Why the heck isn’t this a major trend here in the United States, like yoga, acupuncture, or heck, even cupping? Could someone please inform Gwyneth Paltrow she needs to start a new fad?

Our friend Kelly went off to India to attend a yoga retreat to break out of a rut in her practice. While in the beach town of Kovalam in the southern state of Kerala, she also investigated Ayurvedic treatments.

“Yoga and Ayurveda are sister sciences,” Kelly told us. Here she describes her intense Ayurvedic treatment during her stay in India.

“You would lay down on a table and have this oil receptacle that was hung by a chain. A woman would slowly drizzle oil over your forehead, back and forth, for 20 minutes at a time.”

The quality of your hair, how oily or dry your skin is, how cold or hot you get — all of these factor into what your dosha is

What exactly is Ayurveda?

Ayurveda is the practice of balancing your body’s natural constitution, also known as your dosha. Everyone is one of three doshas: vata, pitta and kapha. They’re aligned to different elements. I’m a pitta dosha, so I have certain imbalances in my body that Ayurveda tries to correct.

The doctor did an assessment. Your dosha is made up of physical traits as well as personality characteristics. As a pitta dosha, I’m supposed to eat cooling foods. There’s a whole diet I’m supposed to follow.

The three doshas at the center of the star are aligned with different elements and characteristics

What was the facility like?

I went to two. The first one was super sketch. I went twice and decided it was maybe violating some child labor practices. The second facility was a proper one. It was beautiful inside — a huge wooden, three- or four-story hospital.

Describe the Ayurvedic treatments.

If you want treatment, you have to sign up for a minimum of 10 days. Every day I went for about three hours. The way that it broke down was, they would do a massage for an hour, and then a variety of treatments, depending on where I was in the Ayurveda course.

There was a treatment where they would take cotton cloths filled with herbed powder that they would dip in really hot oil and smack all over my body. Smack, smack, smack, smack!

The Ayurvedic oil they used smelled like peanut butter. The oil is believed to cure basically everything, so they use it in almost all of their treatments.

After that, they would do a powder massage rub. There were three women who would work on you together, in unison.

There were baths with this milk substance, which they’d heat and pour over you again and again. There were herbed water baths. There was this one treatment where there was a wooden pillar with a hanging oil receptacle. You would lay down on the table and you’d have this oil receptacle that was hung by a chain, and the woman would slowly drizzle it over your forehead, creating a line, back and forth, for 20 minutes at a time.

What was that like?

It was very relaxing — but a lot of the treatments were actually very stressful, especially after 10 days.

There a bunch of quizzes you can take to determine what dosha you are. I’ve taken a few — and gotten varying answers. I also tend to get dual prakriti, which signifies that I’m influenced by two doshas. From what Kelly has said, that means I’m a big ol’ mess. –Wally

Yoga Escape in Kovalam, India

Experiencing Ashtanga yoga classes in Kerala taught by David Garrigues.

The Ashtanga yoga studio in the beach town of Kovalam, where Kelly began each day

Our friend Kelly, a delightful, brave young woman, went off to India on a whim to join a yoga retreat run by David Garrigues.

The town of Kovalam charmed Kelly — you can read about its strange walled-in sidewalks and the quirky treehouse-like B&B she stayed in here. –Wally

“We do yoga to understand God and prepare ourselves for enlightenment.”

Our fearless adventurer, who had a major breakthrough in her yoga practice during her two-week stay in India

What brought you to Kovalam?

I went to practice yoga. I had been thinking about going to India for a few years, since I started practicing. I was kinda stuck in a rut with my yoga practice. I hadn’t been progressing, and I decided a good way to get out of it would be to go to India.

Why India?

That’s the birthplace of yoga. That’s where the Ashtanga tradition is from —  it originated in Mysore, India. Ashtanga yoga is basically a set number of postures in each of the six series. It’s super traditional. You do it every morning.

I didn’t end up going to Mysore, but I did practice with David Garrigues, a prominent Ashtanga teacher, in the South of India, in Kovalam. He’s based in Philadelphia but has been traveling around a lot.

It was one of those spur-of-the-moment things — though I don’t know if most people do a spur-of-the-moment thing with India. I made the decision very quickly. I booked the trip after thinking about it for about five minutes.

Sometimes you need a helping hand to move past a gatekeeper pose

What was the yoga retreat like?

Every morning, I’d get up at 6 a.m. and do yoga for about two hours. Sometimes there were sutra classes, or we’d go back in the afternoon for an asana [yoga postures] theory class.

What was interesting is I had a lot of challenges with my body over the two weeks I was there. I was in a program that was pretty physically demanding. At the same time, I was getting my body worked on three hours a day at an Ayurvedic clinic. And so the whole time I was there, I was intensely aware of the experience of being in a body. I would feel more frustrated when I couldn’t do a yoga pose. It felt more emotional than it usually does.

But by the second week, I was doing poses that I could never do. That’s a big deal in Ashtanga because in order to move to the next posture in the series, you have to be able to do the one preceding it. People get stuck at what are called gatekeeper poses. I was stuck at Marichyasana D. It’s basically a really deep twist, where you bind behind your knee. I broke through that, with an assist, and I had never come close to doing it before. And I felt like crying — it was really intense emotion.

Some of the more intense asanas, or yoga postures

What appeals to you about yoga?

There are eight limbs of yoga, and asana is just one of them. It’s this all-encompassing spiritual practice to actually do yoga. There are the breathing practices, meditation and other ones. All of it ladders up to this idea that we do yoga in order to understand God and prepare ourselves for enlightenment.

It isn’t associated with any religion — that’s a common misperception. It pairs really well with Buddhism and with Hinduism, and there are definitely shared influences.

Not a bad spot for some evening yoga

How did you feel by the end of your trip?

It was the definitely healthiest I’ve ever felt in my life. I was not ready to come back. I wanted to stay.

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Kovalam: A Hippie Haven in Kerala

This small beach town in South India isn’t your typical Indian experience — but it has its own intensity.

A stay in Kovalam isn’t your typical Indian experience. As a beach town, it’s much more laidback

Most people who travel to India don’t do so on a whim. But Kelly was at an impasse in her yoga practice and sought a spiritual kickstart. So when she saw that David Garrigues, a yoga instructor she admires, would be in a small beach town in the South of India, not five minutes had passed before she had booked her ticket.

Here Kelly shares her life-changing Indian spirit journey. –Wally

Kelly had a magical time on her solo adventure in Kovalam

“In Kovalam, all of the sidewalks have very high walls built up around them. If you are passing someone, and they don’t turn their body, you will touch them. That is how tight the space is.”

All sorts of interesting people flock to Kovalam for its beaches and focus on wellness

Tell us about Kovalam.

It’s a small town on the beach, but super touristy. Apparently, Kovalam used to be this hippie haven. I remember on my second day there, I was sitting in this restaurant overlooking the ocean and looking around and being like, What are all these random people doing here at the edge of the world? You have these old ladies from Russia who are decked out in all of this costume jewelry, and you have the beautiful, sleek yogis and the Brazilians who are there backpacking through India, and it just seemed like such a strange group of people who had gathered there.

Hints of the chaos of India slip into even this idyllic town

The other thing that struck me was the overwhelming sense of anonymity. This was a place I could navigate as my true self versus the self that I have cultivated here with my friends and work.

Most of the locals spoke English, which I didn’t expect. I’ve heard a lot about India, but I think the experience of this town was a lot different. Though I will say there was a certain amount of chaos — leaving the airport in Trivandrum and getting to Kovalam was insane: people on rickshaws and bikes weaving in and out of traffic.

It seemed like everything was in a different stage of being constructed or being torn down. And there were people burning garbage, fires lining the street, and all this new construction, and in front of that, there’d be old men in loincloths selling fruit. It was this bizarre mix of new construction and old tradition.

Johny’s Beach House is like staying in a treehouse

Where did you stay in Kovalam?

I stayed at a place called Johny’s Beach House. It was like stepping into a jungle. It’s only four rooms. But he has this huge garden — there are literally monkeys that will climb through the trees there.

Johny himself — his warm heart is why his B&B is a top-rated place to stay in Kovalam

The garden at Johny’s is filled with lush greenery — and the occasional monkey

Johny built Johny’s Beach House, this hilarious, quirky treehouse, four years ago and he’s been running it ever since. He comes from this really small village and worked his way up in the tourism industry in Kovalam and now he’s the highest-rated place to stay. Which all of the other hotels are really baffled by because they don’t understand why this tiny little treehouse four-bedroom B&B is the top-rated place. But the thing is, when people stay there, they aren’t rating the B&B itself — they’re rating Johny, because he is such a personality, with this quirky sense of humor and is super engaging and really creative. That is his space, and it’s completely a representation of him.

Breakfast at Johny’s

Every morning Johny would make me this porridge with bananas and cardamom and different nuts when I’d get back from yoga. And I’d eat it on my balcony and read my yoga books. It was beautiful.

Did you ever feel unsafe in Kovalam?

There was only one time. I was coming home late. In Kovalam, the way that the town is structured — all of the sidewalks have very high walls built up around them. I bet they’re 7-foot walls. If you are passing someone, and they don’t turn their body, you will touch them. That is how tight the space is.

That was the challenge: getting anywhere. Google Maps doesn’t have all those tiny twists and turns, so I would literally allot 40 minutes to get to a place because I was like a mouse in the middle of a maze — even if it was a 5-minute walk away. Because the sidewalks were built around the homes, there would be dead ends; the sidewalk would turn into a dirt path that would go into somebody’s house. I got lost a bunch of times and one time had to be rescued.

It’s actually sad. Johnny told me that as the tourism industry took off in Kovalam, a lot of these hotels and restaurants and visitor homes built up the walls to prevent locals from entering their properties. And so in way, it was this discriminatory measure, to appeal more to the tourists.

It was a problem if you were coming toward a group of men and they didn’t make any sign of moving. That happened a few times, and it’s very intentional — people do that on purpose with women.

A strange encounter in the walled labyrinthine sidewalks in Kovalam

There was one time I was coming home late. There was a little dog I made friends with while I was there and it hung out outside of Johny’s Beach House and it would follow me around everywhere. I would go find it in the morning and he would follow me to the market or the beach. So he was my little buddy for two weeks.

This little fella followed Kelly everywhere she went in Kovalam and acted as her guard dog

Did you name the doggie?

He was just little Sweeters. So this one night I was walking home and there was a drunk man who I think was maybe following me. I don’t know exactly what happened, but I was starting to get that danger feeling, and a few moments later, I heard the dog start growling. Sweeters was snapping at the man. So I ran to the gate, opened it really fast and shut it.

What was it like being in such a small town?

Everyone watched your every move. The locals would ask, “Where are you from? Where are you staying? What are you doing?” And then they’d track me. They’d say, “Oh, I saw that you were at the blah-blah-blah the other day.” Or I’d meet somebody at a restaurant and they’d say, “You’re studying with David.” Everyone knew everyone’s business, which was really crazy.

People would ask me, “Are you married? Do you have a boyfriend?” It was very intrusive.

You’ll see offering bowls, like this one at Johny’s Beach House, all over Kerala

What was the most interesting Indian custom you encountered?

I really like the head bob. I had to ask Johny, “What does this mean?” And he was like, “Sometimes it means yes. Sometimes it means no. Sometimes it means they didn’t understand what you said.” And I was like, “Oh, that clears it up. Thanks.”

But I also found myself kind of doing it.

Because Johny and I became friends, I was able to do a lot of things I wouldn’t have been able to as a tourist. I spent a lot of time on the back of Johny’s motorbike, clinging on for dear life, struggling to breathe through the pollution. But it was like seeing this area through the eyes of a local.

We went to this really bizarre restaurant in Trivandrum. It seemed like this restaurant was a converted version of a twisty parking garage ramp. There are all these booths along the far wall as the restaurant spirals upward. I guess it’s the place to go in Trivandrum if you want coffee or dosa, which is like a crepe.

Kelly likes to play with her food, as seen on this houseboat restaurant

What was the food like in Kerala?

I’m obsessed with food. But surprisingly, I was underwhelmed.

The yoga studio that I go to in Chicago, the owner was coincidentally in Kovalam at the same time, doing a completely separate retreat. So I spent a lot of time with his people, and he had a house and has been going there for 20 years. He knows everything about Kovalam. And he had a neighbor friend, this woman, who made all of this food for us for our final meal. It was thali [the Indian version of tapas] served on a banana leaf — it was definitely the best meal that I had.

Thali, presented on this banana leaf, consists of small bites of different dishes, much like tapas

“Kelly: What does the head bob mean?

Johny: Sometimes it means yes. Sometimes it means no. Sometimes it means they didn’t understand what you said.

Kelly: Oh, that clears it up. Thanks.”

The Indian Caste System Explained

Brahmin, Kshatriya, Vaishya, Shudra, untouchable: How did the caste system get started, what is the difference between castes — and how does this shameful practice persist to this day?

Quite a few Asian cultures I’ve experienced think of the head as the holiest of body parts and the feet as the filthiest. Sure, that can be taken literally — but it applies on the spiritual level as well.

In India, they’ve taken this concept to the next level, connecting body parts with actual societal classes. They’ve used that belief to help justify a horrific system of oppression.

“The “untouchables” are forced to perform the worst jobs, including cleaning public toilets, raising so-called unclean animals like pigs, curing hides and sweeping streets.”

What is the caste system?

Think of it as the opposite of the American Dream. In the caste system, people are born into their situation in life, including the occupations open to them. And because they can only marry people within their caste, it’s a vicious cycle that never ends.

“Rooted in religion and based on a division of labor, the caste system, among other things, dictates the type of occupations a person can pursue” as well as the social interactions he or she is allowed, according to Dummies, the company that brings us those …for Dummies books.

“The most obvious problem with this system was that under its rigidity, the lower castes were prevented from aspiring to climb higher, and, therefore, economic progress was restricted,” the site reports.

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Each caste is said to have come from a different part of the body of Brahma, the Hindu creator god

What exactly are the main castes — and how do they relate to the body?

Each caste is affiliated with a part of the body of Brahma, the Hindu god of creation.

Brahmins: These are the top dogs. They’re mostly priests, teachers and scholars who supposedly came from Brahma’s heads, or mouths (he had four).

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Brahmins are the highest caste in India, composed of priests and those lucky enough to be well educated

Kshatriyas: These are the warriors and rulers, so it shouldn’t be surprising that they originated from Brahma’s arms. Nowadays, they tend to be bureaucrats working in public administration, maintenance of law and order, and defense.

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The highest secular class, Kshatriyas include the subcaste Rajputs. Traditionally, they were warriors

Vaishyas: This caste consists of the merchants and traders (e.g., businessmen) as well as farmers, cattle herders and artisans. Hindu myth states that they were created from Brahma’s thighs.

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The Vaishya caste includes farmers and those involved in business

Shudras: Also called Sudras, this low caste is comprised of menial laborers and service providers. They derive from Brahma’s feet.

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A still from the 2012 Hindi movie Shudra: The Rising?, about the poor treatment of this low caste (I’m pretty sure most of them aren’t this hot)

Avarnas/Dalits: The “untouchables” are forced to perform the worst jobs, including cleaning public toilets, raising so-called unclean animals like pigs, curing hides and sweeping streets. Dalit is the more modern term for this class and translates to “oppressed.”

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So low on the totem pole, they’re technically outside of the caste system, Dalits, or untouchables, are relegated to jobs deemed too unclean for the rest of society

These castes get broken down into subsets as well by region.

How did the caste system get started?

It was written in the book — the Manusmriti, that is. This tome, dating back to 1000 BCE or more, is widely regarded to be the most important and authoritative book on Hindu law, the BBC reports. It “acknowledges and justifies the caste system as the basis of order and regularity of society.”

This social stratification might go back even further than that, according to The Logical Indian: The site states that the first mention was called “the Varna system” and was in the Rig Veda, an ancient Indian hymnal believed to have been written between 1500 and 800 BCE.

How does the caste system work?

“The upper and lower castes almost always lived in segregated colonies, the water wells were not shared, Brahmins would not accept food or drink from the Shudras, and one could marry only within one’s caste,” according to the BBC.

If it sounds awful, it was: The caste system trapped people into a social stratification they couldn’t escape from.

The ancient texts helped perpetuate stereotypes about each caste, the Logical Indian reports. “Brahmins were considered to be pure, wise and gentle; Kshatriyas were linked with anger, pleasure and boldness; Vaishyas were deemed to be hard-working people living off the plough; and Shudras were associated with violence and impurity, worthy of contempt.”

Isn’t the caste system supposed to have been abolished?

It was, in 1950. Legally, at least. The constitution banned discrimination on the basis of caste, and, in an attempt to correct historical injustices and provide a level playing field to the traditionally disadvantaged, the authorities announced quotas in government jobs and educational institutions for the lowest castes.

By 1990, the quota rose to just under 50%, applying to groups the government classified by such charming names as “Other Backward Classes,” “Scheduled Castes” and “Scheduled Tribes.”

Mahatma Gandhi fought for the rights of the Dalits, calling them Harijans, or the Children of God.

What about the deadly protests against the caste system?

“Outbreaks of violent protests have raked into an ugly spotlight the views of those people who are dissatisfied with affirmative action,” CNN writes.

In February 2016, the Jats, a well-off group of farmers and traders from Northern India, protested. By the end, 30 people had been killed while clashing with the police, buildings were burned, and canals damaged.

Have there been any success stories for those from lower castes?

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K.R. Narayanan, the first Dalit president in India — and hopefully not the last

There have been some strides towards equality thanks to the quota system, including the election of a Dalit president, K.R. Narayanan, in 1997.

Despite this, only one Harijan in 3,000 can read (compared with India’s average of one in six) and Harijans make up 33% of India’s landless, The Guardian writes.

Some of the lower castes have sought refuge in Buddhism, while others have found urban centers to be an easier place to mix with other castes.

Discrimination and prejudice continue to this day, our friend Prakash told us when we visited Vadodara, India. He’s a Dalit, whose parents are both school janitors. He explained that many Indians today judge people by their skin color. The lower castes tend to have darker skin, which is seen as less desirable by many.

“If it sounds awful, it was: The caste system trapped people into a social stratification they couldn’t escape from.”

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These images come from the manuscript Seventy-two Specimens of Castes in India. They were all hand-painted portraits of people living in Madura, India. The album dates back to 1837 and was compiled by the Indian writing master at an American missionary school and was given to a Reverend William Twining. –Wally

Secrets of the Hijra: India’s Little-Known Transsexuals

Prostitution, curses and dangerous sex change operations are a way of life for this marginalized community.

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A group of hijras, India’s legally recognized third sex, in Bangladesh

With Caitlyn Jenner and bathroom debates making front-page news, trans people are now part of the American consciousness. And yet most of the world doesn’t know about the hijra, India’s transsexuals, who are officially recognized as a third sex in a country where homosexuality is illegal.

For many gay Indian men, they have two choices. They can ignore their homosexuality and live in repression, get married to a woman and try to raise a family. Or they could undergo a castration to live their life as a transsexual woman in the hijra community.

“A very tight cord is wrapped around your penis and balls so you cannot pass urine. You become bloated, like you’re pregnant. You’re in a lot of pain. ”

In India, the latter is often the most appealing option.

“The way it works in this culture is it’s more socially acceptable to dress up in a sari and pretend you’re a woman than it is to be a man who likes other men,” said my friend George, who lived in Vadodara, India for the past couple of years before he fell off his roof and died late last year.

There’s not a lot of information out there about hijras. Their customs are shrouded in mystery. Here are some surprising facts about this little-known subset of Indian society. Granted, this isn’t the most flattering portrait of a trans group, and there are exceptions to every generalization — but it’s a tough life for hijras and their reality doesn’t paint the prettiest of pictures.

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Many think it’s easier to live life as a trans woman than as a gay man in India

Hijras have the ability to bless — or curse.

If you’re about to be married or have recently given birth to a son, watch out. The hijras in your neighborhood will appear outside your home one day, singing, dancing and doing their signature clap, touching the base of the palms together in a dramatic flourish.

When money doesn’t come quickly enough, hijras lift their dresses to flash their often-mutilated genitalia.This is seen as the ultimate proof of their hijrahood.

Some refer to these actions as begging or bestowing a blessing — but just as many Indians think of it as a curse or, at the very least, a major societal embarrassment, wanting the hijras to leave as quickly as possible.

In this manner, a group of hijras can collect alms that total 2,000 rupees a day, according to George — and that’s a substantial sum. The hijras split the earnings among their group — but it still ends up much more than the typical Indian’s 180-rupee-a-day salary (the equivalent of $2).

“One of the hijra houses we went to had business cards,” said George, who hosted a British student writing her dissertation on this trans community, sitting in on many of her research interviews. “They go to the hospital and bribe the nurses to give them the addresses of homes where there has been a boy born recently.”

The hijra are most commonly found begging on trains, though, George said.

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Listen to George’s interview on the Feast of Fun podcast: “Eat, Pray, Gay.”

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Once revered, hijras are now feared.

“Their communities across Southeast Asia date back more than 4,000 years, and they appear in ancient texts as bearers of luck and fertility,” according to the U.K.’s Daily Mail. There are mentions of hijra in the sexual position guide the Kama Sutra as well as the Hindu epic Mahabharata.

And while Muslims tend to be traditionalists in terms of gender roles as well, they also have a longstanding tradition of holding eunuchs in the highest regard. In ancient times, Mughal rulers had eunuchs guard their most prized and holy objects as well as serve as advisors. Eunuchs were seen as pure, uncorrupted; they had sexual temptation removed from the equation.

Today, though, hijras face discrimination and outright abuse.

“If you were to ask a middle-class or upper-class boy what they think about hijras, they’ll tell you they’re scared of them,” George told us. “Because they remember being that little boy and being exposed. It’s kind of an evil Santa Claus. You see this clown-looking thing in a sari flashing your parents. And they won’t go away until you give them money.”

When George invited hijras to a party he hosted, many of the guests promptly left, asking how he could associate with such “filthy, diseased, lower-class” scum.

The sex-change surgeries are barbaric.

Most castrations (known as “nirvan,” which is awfully close to “nirvana”) aren’t performed in hospitals. It’s part of a 40-day ritual of self-emasculation, according to the Daily Mail.

The surgery is, essentially, a rebirth. It happens in the morning, with the rising of the sun.

A very tight cord is wrapped around your penis and balls so you cannot pass urine. You become bloated, like you’re pregnant. You’re in a lot of pain.

The village midwife then comes in with a knife. “She takes a swipe up and a swipe down. No anesthesia,” George said, though there are stories of hijras being dosed with opium first.

As the blood and urine come gushing out, “it’s supposed to be your male essence is leaving your body,” George told us.

The hijra is supposedly presented with her castrated parts, which she buries next to a tree as a sacrifice.

“After the castration, you cannot work for almost one and a half months,” a hijra named Abhina Aher told NPR. “It was not an easy task — it was a journey of pain.”

You can get the operation done in a hospital — if you can bribe a doctor willing to take the risk — though it doesn’t sound much more safe.

“It happens in a dingy room, a 10-by-10 probably,” Aher said, describing her procedure. “Immediately after the castration, two hours, the hijra is asked to leave that place, because it is illegal. The operations are normally done by quacks, and a lot of hijras die because of that.”

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Hijra prostitutes sell their services for the equivalent of about 50 cents (not that that’s what these two are!)

Many hijras get involved in sex work. Sometimes during traffic jams.

Prostitution “is a given” for hijras, according to George.

Hijra sex workers sell themselves for 300 rupees, which translates to about 50 cents, he told us.

They often take advantage of situations that present themselves. “If you’re in a traffic jam anywhere in India, look out the window and you’ll see all the trucks are stopped and can’t go anywhere,” George said. “The hijras come running onto the freeway. They go inside those cabins — five minutes later they’re leaving and going into another truck. They’re going from cabin to cabin to cabin to get 30 rupees, 30 rupees, 30 rupees. They know these are horny truckers who have been on the road for months without their wives, and a real woman prostitute can cost 200 to 500 rupees. And here’s a hijra for 30 rupees. Which one are you gonna take?” he asked.

Becoming a hijra is seen as one of the only options for young, desperate gays.

Hijras live in communal houses, where a mother figure, or guru, runs the show, taking care of her chelas, or daughters.

“First, hijras make a pledge to hand over all earnings to the guru, who in exchange supports them inside what is effectively an alternative home, as most hijras are runaways or evicted by their families,” NPR reports.

For many in this ostracized population, these homes are a haven. But they can also be the only option for young gay boys kicked out of their homes.

“Hijras pick them up off the street and say, ‘Come and live with us,’” George explained. “And they start off by feeding you — recruiting you, basically. Then they start dressing you in a sari and selling you to clients.”

The hijra have turf wars — and bizarre ways of insulting each other.

“I can sum up the hijra in three words,” George told us. “Gangs wearing saris.”

Each house has its own territory. And if you intrude on their turf, there are gang wars. Guns aren’t the weapon of choice, though. They’ll flash their genitals, pull hair, and beat each other with sticks or their sandals, which is the ultimate insult since the feet are considered the dirtiest part of the body.

George heard tales of hijras being hanged or doused with gasoline and lit afire.

And those who pretend to be hijras as a means to earn money will be badly beaten by genuine hijras if found out.

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The patron goddess of hijras, Bahuchara Mata, rides around on a giant rooster and cursed a bandit with impotence

Hijras worship a goddess who cut off her breasts and rides around on a rooster.

Bahuchara Mata was traveling with her sisters in a caravan, when they were raided by a bandit named Bapiya. Part of a warrior caste that promoted suicide over death at the hands of an enemy, Bahuchara decided instead to cut off her breasts. As the source of a mother’s life-sustaining milk, breasts represent womanhood in India.

She then cursed the bandit with impotence — a horrific punishment in a culture that puts so much importance in carrying on the family name. The only way Bapiya could overcome this hex was to pay homage to Bahuchara Mata by dressing and behaving like a woman.

Bahuchara has become the patron goddess of hijras and is depicted as riding atop a rooster, a symbol of innocence.

Keep in mind that not all transgendered people in India are part of the hijra community, and that not all hijras fall under these general attributes. But those that do resort to prostitution, intimidation and crassness do so because they have no other options in a paradoxical society that recognizes their legal status but discriminates against them. –Wally

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