Fall Foliage in Japan: A Guide to Experiencing the Spectacular Koyo

Discover the best places for autumn in Japan, including Hokkaido, Nikko, Fuji Five Lakes, Kyoto and Tokyo. Plus, you’ll fall for these  cultural traditions and travel tips.

Japan in fall is a spectacle of vibrant colors and cultural traditions, with every corner of the country bursting into hues of red, orange and yellow. Known as koyo, the brilliant display of autumn leaves makes this the perfect time to soak up Japan’s natural beauty. But if you’re aiming for the best fall foliage spots and wondering about cultural traditions tied to the season, don’t worry — I’ve got you covered.

“Known as koyo, the brilliant display of autumn leaves makes fall the perfect time to soak up Japan’s natural beauty.”

Before heading off, make sure you check the Japan fall foliage forecast for the year so you hit the peak time for those autumn hues. Now, let’s dive into the top spots for fall foliage viewing, starting with the early birds all the way to the late bloomers. 

Hokkaido

Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, is home to Daisetsuzan National Park, one of the first places to catch the autumn colors. Starting mid-September, you can hike around Kogen Onsen for a kaleidoscope of leaves. Just don’t forget your bear safety orientation — these woods are home to some of Japan’s most curious critters. Another fall gem? Noboribetsu, known for its eerie “Hell Valley,” where volcanic hot springs and bubbling pools make for a steamy, surreal leaf-viewing experience.

Nikko

Nikko offers one of the longest koyo seasons in Japan. The leaf-changing magic starts mid-October near the waterfalls, before spreading in golden waves across Senjogahara Marshland and up to Lake Chuzenji. The stunning contrast of colors against the blue waters is definitely a sight you don’t want to miss.

Fuji Five Lakes

With Mount Fuji towering above, the Fuji Five Lakes region is undeniably a showstopper. In early November, the northern shores of Lake Kawaguchiko are prime for leaf viewing, with the snow-capped peak looming in the background. If you’re feeling adventurous, this could be your basecamp for a late fall climb.

Kyoto

Kyoto, with its historic temples and gardens, steals the show in mid-to-late November. Arashiyama, known for its bamboo grove, becomes even more magical when framed by autumn colors — yes, the same spot you’ve seen in Memoirs of a Geisha. Kiyomizu-dera Temple, perched above a sea of crimson leaves, offers stunning views, and its nighttime illuminations give the foliage an otherworldly glow.

Tokyo

Even Tokyo gets in on the action. By late November, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden lights up with reds and yellows, offering a stunning mix of Japanese, English, and French-style gardens. Meanwhile, Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens showcase fiery maple leaves reflected in its serene ponds, blending nature with traditional Japanese design for a peaceful retreat in the city.

Types of Trees You’ll See for Japanese Fall Foliage

Japanese maple (momiji): The star of the season, momiji trees light up the landscape with their fiery red leaves, becoming the very symbol of autumn in Japan.

Ginkgo: With their distinctive fan-shaped leaves turning a brilliant yellow, ginkgo trees are a common sight in cities, parks and temples and lining streets.

Rowan and larch: Adding splashes of orange and yellow, these trees round out the autumn palette, with larch standing out as the only conifer that drops its needle-shaped leaves for the season.

How to Get Around for Japan’s Fall Foliage

Japan Rail Pass: The perfect ticket to hop between major cities and regions. If you’re planning to cover a lot of ground with long-distance trips, this is both a convenient and cost-effective option.

Public transportation: In bustling cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, the train and bus networks make getting around a breeze. 

Car rental: When you’re heading to more remote spots like Nikko or Hokkaido, a rental car gives you the freedom to escape the crowds and explore at your own pace.

Cultural Traditions for Koyo

The Japanese don’t just admire the leaves — they “hunt” them. Momiji-gari, which literally translates to “autumn leaf hunting,” is all about appreciating the vivid colors, particularly those of the maple tree. And don’t be surprised if you spot some maple leaf tempura on menus — it’s a sweet seasonal treat.

The fall harvest also means festivals. Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri on October 22 brings history to life with participants donning costumes from different periods of Japan’s past. Meanwhile, the Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival in Fukushima lights up the streets with floats covered in glowing red lanterns — it’s a sight not to be missed.

Travel Tips for Fall Foliage in Japan

Plan ahead. 
With autumn being a prime time for visitors, accommodations fill up fast. Be sure to book early and keep an eye on foliage forecasts to catch the peak colors.

Layer your clothing. 
The temperatures swing throughout the day, so dressing in layers will keep you comfortable no matter the weather.

Respect local customs. 
Temples and shrines hold a special place in Japanese culture. When visiting, be sure to follow local traditions and show proper etiquette. This might mean taking off your shoes before entering temple buildings, avoiding loud conversations, refraining from taking photos in restricted areas, and bowing to show respect when entering and leaving holy places.

On the Hunt for Fall Foliage 

Japan’s autumn certainly wows with its colors — but it’s also the culture, festivals and history that make this season so special. So grab your camera, plan your trip and get ready to “hunt” some of the most stunning fall views the world has to offer. –Julia Hill 

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NATURE’S MARVELS

Literary Destinations: Books to Accompany Your Travels

What to read on vacation? From Paris to Tokyo, here are some recommendations to immerse yourself in foreign cultures. 

There’s nothing quite like diving into a book that takes you to the very place you're about to visit — or are currently exploring. Literature has a magical way of bringing locations to life, adding rich historical context, cultural nuances and captivating narratives that enhance your travel experience.

Whether you’re an avid reader or simply just looking to deepen your connection with your destination, creating a literary itinerary can be a delightful way to enrich your journey.

Let’s explore some of the most enchanting destinations and the books that would be your trusty companions along the way. 

Paris, France
Giovanni’s Room by James Baldwin

Ah, Paris — the City of Light, and an epicenter of art, culture and romance. Set in 1950s Paris, Baldwin’s novel Giovanni’s Room explores themes of identity, love and societal expectations. The story follows David, an American expat who struggles with his sexual identity. While his fiancée, Hella, is away in Spain, David begins an intense romantic relationship with Giovanni, an Italian bartender. This deeply moving story is a poignant and powerful exploration of the complexities of human emotions and the struggle for self-acceptance in a world that often demands conformity.

Italy
Eat Pray Love by Elizabeth Gilbert 

Gilbert’s bestselling memoir, Eat Pray Love, is a captivating tale of self-discovery that takes you on a transformative journey through Italy, India and Indonesia. While in Italy, Gilbert immerses herself in the country’s gastronomy, savoring the flavors and traditions of cities like Rome and Naples. This book is sure to whet your appetite for the amazing food and cultural richness that Italy has to offer.

Florida
To Have and Have Not by Ernest Hemingway 

If you’re planning a trip that includes, perhaps, a three-day cruise to Key West, consider packing a copy of To Have and Have Not by Hemingway. Set against the backdrop of the Great Depression in the Florida Keys and Cuba, this gripping novel, written in the author’s simple and direct style, explores the economic struggles and moral dilemmas of its characters. And while you’re in Key West, be sure to visit the Ernest Hemingway Home & Museum, where the legendary writer lived in the 1930s, or imbibe at Sloppy Joe’s, Papa’s favorite watering hole during his time on the island.

New York City
The Catcher in the Rye by J.D. Salinger 

Often included in American high school curricula, Salinger’s provocative novel The Catcher in the Rye explores universal themes such as alienation, identity, loss and the transition from adolescence to adulthood — all seen through the eyes of its angsty teenage protagonist, Holden Caulfield. Nearly all the landmarks Holden mentions as he wanders around Manhattan — Central Park, the American Museum of Natural History and the Met — still attracting visitors more than half a century later, and they play significant roles in the story.

Tokyo, Japan
Norwegian Wood by Haruki Murakami

Step into the world of 1960s Japan with Murakami’s coming-of-age novel, Norwegian Wood. This poignant tale of love, loss and self-discovery is narrated by 37-year-old Toru Watanabe, who finds himself transported back to his college days after hearing the Beatles’ song “Norwegian Wood (This Bird Has Flown)” while on a business trip. For an author whose stories typically exist between the real and the surreal, Norwegian Wood takes a decidedly more subtle approach, yet still showcases Murakami’s characteristically delicate touch.

Cape Town, South Africa
Disgrace by J.M. Coetzee

Set in post-apartheid South Africa, J.M. Coetzee’s Booker Prize-winning novel Disgrace focuses on the life of David Lurie, a disgraced university professor. After an affair with a student leads to his dismissal, Lurie retreats to his daughter Lucy's rural farm in the province of Eastern Cape. There, they experience a brutal attack that forces both of them to confront their vulnerabilities and the harsh realities of a changing society. The novel explores themes of power, redemption, racial tensions and the search for a new identity in a country grappling with its past.

Literary Wanderlust

These are just a few examples of the countless literary treasures that can enhance your travel experiences. By immersing yourself in the pages of a book set in your destination, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for the local culture, history and stories that have unfolded within those very streets and landscapes.

But the allure of literary travel goes beyond mere reading. Many destinations offer opportunities to follow in the footsteps of your favorite authors, explore the places that inspired their works, or attend literary festivals and events.

So, as you plan your next adventure, be sure to pack a few literary companions — they’ll not only entertain you during your travels but also provide a perspective through which to explore the world around you. –Boris Dzhingarov

3 of the Best Places for Foreign Exchange Students to Study and Travel

Ready for an adventure-packed academic experience? The world is your classroom. Spain, Germany and Japan offer rich cultures, great opportunities for travel — oh, and quality study abroad programs, too. 

Imagine being able to explore a setting like this while studying abroad! The famous cherry blossoms of Japan are just one unforgettable experience you could have as an international student.

Studying in a foreign country is an exhilarating and educational way to immerse yourself in other cultures. With so many opportunities to explore, it’s no surprise that a significant number of college students across the globe are international. Among the higher education population, Statista lists Australia as the top choice, with 31% of students from abroad. Canada follows, with 24%, and the U.K. comes in at third with 22%.

“ Remember: You can learn as much outside of the classroom as you can in it. ”

There are plenty of countries offering exciting foreign exchange programs. Even if they only last a year (or even a semester), the experience of living away from family, friends and a familiar environment can be intimidating — but it’s ultimately worth it. That’s why it’s essential you do your research first. 

Australia tops the list of places to study abroad (and Sydney does seem pretty great) — but it’s hardly the only place to do so.

Factors to consider when choosing a school abroad

You can search for the “best schools for foreign exchange students” — but the results don’t always give you the complete picture. 

While immersing yourself in the local culture is undoubtedly the essence of studying abroad, you need to look beyond the quality and reputation of the educational institutions. One valuable way to gain deeper insights into the study experience is by tapping into the invaluable resource of student feedback.

Studocu’s World University Rankings list schools from North America, Latin America, Oceania and EMEA (Europe, the Middle East and Africa), including categories on quality of life, safety, on-campus housing and facilities. Being able to compare students’ views can help you assess if the environment is somewhere you’ll thrive. 

Aside from campus experience, you also need to factor in money and time. Studying abroad isn’t cheap, and there are various expenses to consider, from program fees to travel costs. Many schools offer scholarships for student exchange programs, but they’re highly competitive. Furthermore, applying for these programs takes time and patience, so make sure you stay on top of the requirements.

With that said, what are the best places to study abroad? Here are a few of the top destinations for foreign exchange students:

The town of Granda, Spain is filled with students, who enjoy the gorgeous views of the Alhambra and free tapas with their booze.

Spain

With delicious gastronomic destinations (tapas!) and cultural activities (from Gaudí’s La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona to the Alhambra in Granada), Spain has plenty to keep students busy when they’re not studying. Many students come to the country to master Spanish or take classes on European studies or international business. A bonus is that tuition fees are relatively more affordable than in the rest of Europe.

It’s not uncommon for Spaniards to have dinner as late as 9:30 or even 10:30.

Insider tips: 

• There are plenty of study abroad programs in Spain, so there’s a good chance you’ll meet other students from your home country — bonding with them can help with homesickness.

• Western Europeans tend to eat late, with Spain having the latest dinner time — 9:30 to 10:30 p.m.

German cities, like Köln, or Cologne, are especially good for students studying the sciences.

Germany

For those pursuing the sciences, Germany is one of your best bets. The country produces more than 30% of STEM (science, technology, engineering and math) graduates — a high share compared to other Western European countries. Aside from quality education, the country offers multicultural neighborhoods and historical landmarks, from the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin to Cologne Cathedral.

Insider tips:

• Although Germans are stereotyped as stoic or unfriendly, with some time, they can be extremely warm and friendly. I’ve found that the best time to socialize is on Sunday, when most things are shut down.

• Being punctual is very important in Germany, so make sure to arrive at classes or meetings on time.

Studying abroad in Japan probably isn’t always as zen as a trip to the idyllic Golden Pavilion in Kyoto.

Japan

With some of the world’s most advanced tech and beautiful zen-like architecture, Japan is a popular choice among students who want to immerse themselves in a foreign culture. 

This captivating country strikes a perfect balance between modern convenience and rich historical traditions, with its awe-inspiring temples adding to its allure (like the iconic Kinkaku-ji, or Golden Pavilion, in Kyoto).

Immerse yourself in the culture, no matter where you’re studying — and, yes, in Japan that means eating a meal and drinking sake at an izakaya.

Insider tips:

• If you’re living in a big city like Tokyo, student activities include shopping, eating delicious meals at a restaurant or a lively izakaya (Japanese pub), or belting out tunes at a karaoke bar.

• Japanese people like to use puns rather than sarcasm or dark humor. Bonus: Learning puns can be a good way to expand your vocabulary. Some fodder: The Japanese for New York, ニューヨーク (nyūyōku), sounds the same as the word for “taking a bath”: 入浴 (nyūyoku). 

Being a part of a student exchange program is a rewarding and fulfilling experience. You can make the most of studying and traveling by putting yourself in the mindset of a resident versus a tourist when it comes to other cultures and making friends with fellow students and locals alike. Remember: You can learn as much outside of the classroom as you can in it. –Cliffton Perry

Lead White: The Deadliest Color?

Other ways to make white pigment paled in comparison — but was it worth the risk of lead poisoning?

Queen Elizabeth I loved her white makeup (made from a toxic blend of lead and vinegar) so much that she supposedly had an inch’s worth on her face when she died.

White: the color that evokes the purity of freshly fallen snow and the innocence of virgins. If you’ve ever flicked through a bridal magazine, you can’t help but notice the color white — though you no longer need be chaste to wear it.

But how can one of the earliest and most important pigments produced by mankind be one of the deadliest in the history of color? Its popularity was all the more alarming, given that it could result in lead poisoning (also referred to as painters’ colic or plumbism). Adult symptoms include headaches, abdominal cramps, joint and muscle pain and high blood pressure. Children can suffer developmental delays, learning difficulties and weight loss.

“Geishas used lead white makeup — it contrasted beautifully with their teeth, which they painted black.”

Japanese geishas are part of a long line of standards of beauty that decree that the whiter the skin the lovelier.

A Recipe for Lead White: Don’t Try This at Home 

Since antiquity, artists have used pigments to represent the colors they saw in the natural world. Lead was used  as the principal white pigment in paintings and glazes from ancient times until the 20th century. 

The statues you see in museums and at historic sites were originally painted — and that often included the poisonous lead white.

The laborious process was documented by Roman author and naturalist Pliny the Elder. First, pour a bit of vinegar into the bottom of an earthenware pot. Place a wooden spacer in the pot with a coiled band of lead on top so that only the rising vapors from the vinegar come in contact with the metal. The clay vessel was then surrounded by fresh animal dung and left in a sealed chamber for 30 days. As the manure fermented, it released carbon dioxide, which reacted with the vinegar and chemically corroded the lead, producing the perfect conditions for white papery flakes to grow. 

Pliny the Elder shared his recipe for the bright but toxic shade of white made from lead.

After a month or so, some poor soul was sent to retrieve the pieces of lead, which were now covered with a crust of lead carbonate. This was scraped, cleaned and washed to remove impurities. The raw pigment was ground into powder, formed into small cakes and left to dry in the sun for several days before being sold.

Sure, the process to make lead white cakes could lead to severe ailments — but it was just so bright and pretty!

The resulting pigment was highly valued by artists. Affordable and dense, painters swore by its ease to work with and primed their canvases with it to make their works appear more luminous. 

Art historians are also grateful for its use. When combined with the use of x-ray imaging technology, the paint reveals details such as the earlier stages, alterations and additions of a painting. 

A self-portrait of James McNeill Whistler, who used lead white paint in his works.

Whistler: What a Mama's Boy

One such painter who used lead white was the American-born, British-based artist James McNeill Whistler (1834-1903). Whistler is perhaps best remembered for the iconic portrait, painted in 1871, of his mother. Titled Arrangement in Grey and Black, No. 1, most know it as Whistler’s Mother. It was the first artwork by an American artist to be purchased by the French government for display in a museum. When it’s not traveling, it resides at the Musée d'Orsay in Paris. The painting represents the peak of Whistler’s radical method of modulating tones of a single color.  

This technique began years earlier when he submitted The White Girl to the 1862 Royal Academy of Arts exhibition in London to demonstrate his talents to the world. The ethereal painting depicts his mistress, Joanna Hiffernan, a well-known beauty who modeled for other artists of the day. Tousled locks of red hair frame her expressionless face as she stands atop a wolfskin rug that, to me, disturbingly resembles the pelt of a yellow Lab. 

Whistler’s The White Girl was deemed too modern for the Salon exhibition in Paris.

As far as the British were concerned, the work was too avant-garde. It was rejected by the Academy and ended up in the Salon des Refusés, a protest exhibition organized by the French painter Gustave Courbet.  

Whistler later retitled the work Symphony in White, No.1, perhaps after empathetic art critic Paul Manz commented on the subtle variations of white in the Gazette des Beaux-Arts as a “symphonie du blanc.”

Geishas still wear a stark white makeup as a sort of mask.

The Lingering Perception That Pale Is Beautiful 

In addition to painting, lead white was used in cosmetics. The controversial quest for lighter skin and its association with beauty, social status and wealth has existed since Ancient Egypt. Women of Ancient Greece and Rome whitened their skin with powders and creams made from lead. Japanese geishas also used it — it contrasted beautifully with their teeth, which they had fashionably painted black using a solution of powdered oak galls and vinegar.

Japanese felt that a geisha’s stark white skin paired perfectly with blackened teeth.

The beauty product Snail White (made from actual snail secretions!) is said to leave your skin more pale — and therefore more beautiful.

When Wally and I visited Thailand, we saw shelves at the 7-Elevens stocked with pink and white boxes of Snail White skincare products to give you paler skin. The main ingredient? Mucus secreted by snails. Pretty!

Queen Elizabeth I first began using her lead white makeup as a sort of putty to spackle smallpox scarring.

Fit For a Queen: From Elizabeth I to Laird’s Bloom of Youth

What could have possessed 15th century European courtiers to smear the stuff on their faces? Queen Elizabeth I (1533-1603) was 29 years old when she was diagnosed with smallpox. She survived the deadly illness but was left with smallpox-scarred skin. She appreciated the cosmetic’s ability to conceal her scars, so she adopted her now-famous chalk-white visage. The queen used Venetian ceruse (also known as spirits of Saturn), a foundation produced by combining powdered lead and vinegar. While it may have smoothed her complexion, it was exceedingly toxic — especially when worn for long periods of time. 

Elizabeth I’s legendary white makeup was used to help rebrand herself the Virgin Queen.

Elizabeth used her image to frame the narrative of a virgin queen who didn’t need a husband — she was wedded to her country. When she died at the age of 69, it was rumored that she had a full inch of makeup on her face, which, ironically, may have contributed to her death. 

Commercial lead makeup products like George W. Laird’s Bloom of Youth were introduced in the 19th century. Laird ran a series of advertisements in fashionable New York magazines, promising to smooth and whiten the skin. 

“It will immediately obliterate all such imperfections, and is entirely harmless. It has been chemically analyzed by the Board of Health of New York City and pronounced entirely free from any material injurious to the health or skin,” the ad (untruthfully) claimed.

Laird’s Bloom of Youth claimed to be harmless — but it wasn’t!

Women took notice and applied Laird’s Bloom of Youth foundation to their faces. Perhaps some women thought that a little bit wouldn’t hurt, and by the time the truth was clear, it was probably too late. –Duke