Visiting Seville Cathedral

Discover the world’s largest Gothic cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the iconic La Giralda bell tower and Columbus’ tomb. 

The Seville Cathedral dominates the skyline — not surprisingly, since it's the largest Gothic cathedral in the world.

As you walk through the narrow, winding streets of Seville, you’ll inevitably find yourself in the Plaza del Triunfo. There, rising as a colossal monument to faith and human ingenuity, stands La Catedral de Sevilla (Seville Cathedral). It’s hard not to feel a sense of awe as you take in the sight before you — this is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, and it commands your attention.

Gothic architecture was all about height and light, creating spaces that drew the eyes — and the spirit — upward. The architects of Seville Cathedral embraced this philosophy wholeheartedly. They designed a building that seemed to defy gravity, with soaring arches, intricate ribbed vaults and walls of stone that appear as delicate as lace.

“The towering high altar of Seville Cathedral seems to glow with an otherworldly light.

It’s the largest and one of the most ornate Catholic altars in the world — a gilded masterpiece that took nearly a century to complete. ”

With its intricate ornamentation, the cathedral is gorgeous from any angle.

Visiting Seville Cathedral: First Impressions

The façade of Seville Cathedral is an intricate pattern of religious figures and mythical beasts, all carved in stone with remarkable detail. Saints and apostles line the entrances, each captured in dynamic poses, holding symbols of their faith and martyrdom. Figures like Saint Peter with his keys to Heaven and Saint James with his staff stand as silent guardians of the cathedral. Above the portals, scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary are depicted in elaborate reliefs.

Statues of holy personages ring the cathedral's doorways.

Interspersed among these sacred figures are gargoyles — grotesque stone creatures jutting out from the walls. Their twisted forms, often a blend of animals with something monstrous, serve both symbolic and functional roles. They channel rainwater away from the building, but they also act as protectors, believed to ward off evil spirits from entering the holy site. 

La Giralda rises 341 feet (104 meters) into the air.

The Symbolism of La Giralda: A Story in Stone

Look closely at the base of the tower, where the original stonework from the Almohad Muslim empire remains intact. The arches, adorned with delicate arabesques, are a reminder of the tower’s Islamic origins. They speak of a time when Seville was a center of learning and culture in the Islamic world, a place where scholars and artisans thrived.

Part Islamic, part Renaissance, La Giralda is a good symbol of the merging of East and West that's such a part of southern Spain.

Now, let your gaze travel upward, to the belfry that was added during the Renaissance. The clean lines, classical proportions and elegant simplicity of the design are a stark contrast to the intricate patterns below. This was a statement, a declaration of the Christian faith’s ascendancy. 

Driving home that point is the Latin verse inscribed around the belfry: “TURRIS FORTISSIMA NOMEN DNI PROVERB. 18,” translating to “The name of the Lord is a strong tower,” from Proverbs 18:10. 

High above the city, El Giraldillo stands poised on La Giralda, her massive bronze figure more than just a weather vane — she’s a symbol of faith and victory. Cloaked in a flowing tunic, she holds a mighty shield in one hand and a palm branch in the other. Her figure twists gracefully, moved by the winds, but her expression and stance evoke unshakable faith. Like a sentinel or an ancient goddess, she watches over her city.

El Giraldillo: the most famous weathervane in the world?

La Giralda’s Lesser-Known Secrets

La Giralda also holds secrets that many visitors aren’t familiar with. For instance, did you know that the tower was designed with ramps instead of stairs? This allowed the muezzin, who called the faithful to prayer, to ride a horse to the top. As you imagine this, you can almost hear the rhythmic clatter of hooves echoing within the tower’s walls.

Another lesser-known fact is that during the cathedral’s construction, La Giralda served as a lookout tower. From its heights, guards could survey the city and the surrounding countryside, a strategic vantage point that was vital during times of conflict. 

Duke got this shot from the nearby General Archive of the Indies. You can see the copy of El Giraldillo that topped the tower while the genuine article got restored.

The Entrance of Seville Cathedral 

In front of the cathedral, a statue of Ferdinand III of Castile proudly holds a globe and a sword, commemorating his pivotal role in the 13th century Christian conquest of Seville. Ferdinand’s victory led to the transformation of the city from an Islamic stronghold into a key Christian center, with the mosque being converted into the cathedral we see today.

But Ferdinand isn’t the only figure watching over the entrance. Nearby stands a replica of El Giraldillo. The bronze reproduction topped the tower during a restoration and was moved here when the original figure returned to its rightful place atop La Giralda.

As you step inside the cathedral, your eyes are immediately drawn upward. Massive stone columns rise like ancient trees in a forest, supporting the ceiling. These columns branch out into ribbed vaults, forming a web-like pattern that not only adds to the structure’s stability but also creates an otherworldly sense of space.

The high altar of Seville Cathedral, a breathtaking display of intricate gold niches, showcases scenes from the life of Christ.

The High Altar: A Golden Marvel

The towering structure of the high altar of Seville Cathedral seems to glow with an otherworldly light. It’s the largest and one of the most ornate Catholic altars in the world — a gilded masterpiece that took nearly a century to complete. 

Crafted by Flemish sculptor Pierre Dancart in the late 15th century, the altar rises over 65 feet high and 42 feet wide, composed of 45 intricately carved panels — it feels like an epic storybook springing to life, scene by scene, pulling you into its divine narrative. Imagine it as a tapestry of tales, each vignette acting as a page from the most sacred stories in Christian tradition.

The altar's reliefs are intricately carved wood covered in gold leaf.

At the base, you can see the Nativity, with Mary cradling the infant Jesus, the shepherds humbly offering their reverence, and the Magi presenting their gifts.

Move higher, and the story unfolds into more dramatic, intense episodes. In one vignette, you can see the Crucifixion, then comes the Resurrection, bursting forth from the altar’s center, where Christ, victorious over death, stands surrounded by heavenly figures. (Related: When did Jesus Have to Become God?)

The higher tiers focus on the Ascension of Mary, where she rises amid a host of saints and angels, emphasizing her purity and elevation as the Queen of Heaven.

Each story is framed with ornate Gothic tracery, like delicate borders separating the sacred moments yet tying them all together into one continuous narrative, acting like pages of a gilded gospel.

Columbus' tomb

The Tomb of Christopher Columbus: A Monument Shrouded in Mystery

Inside Seville Cathedral, amid its towering arches and breathtaking art, you’ll find something that has captured the imaginations of visitors for centuries: the tomb of Christopher Columbus, known in Spain as Cristóbal Colón. It’s a monument wrapped in mystery and steeped in controversy, honoring one of history’s most famous and contentious figures.

The ornate tomb seems to be held aloft by four statues, each representing one of the kingdoms of Spain: Castile, León, Aragon and Navarre. These larger-than-life figures, clad in armor and bearing the weight of the tomb on their shoulders, carry not just the remains of a man, but the legacy of an era that forever changed the world. Their expressions are solemn, their posture resolute, as if they understand the weight — both literal and symbolic — that they bear.

Is Seville Cathedral really the site of Columbus' corpse?

The Journey of Columbus’ Remains: A Tale of Many Cities

Here’s where the story takes a fascinating turn: Columbus’ remains have journeyed across the world almost as much as he did during his lifetime. After his death in 1506, Columbus was initially buried in Valladolid, Spain, the city where he died. Yet this was only the beginning of his posthumous odyssey.

A few years later, his remains were moved to Seville, then across the Atlantic to the island of Hispaniola (modern-day Dominican Republic) in the early 16th century, as Columbus had expressed a desire to be buried in the so-called New World he helped to “discover.”

But the story doesn’t end there. Before the French took control of Hispaniola in 1795, Columbus’ remains were supposedly transferred to Havana, Cuba, to prevent them from falling into French hands.

Then, in 1898, after Spain lost control of Cuba following the Spanish-American War, the explorer’s remains were sent back to Seville, where they were interred in the cathedral. 

The ornate tomb that visitors see today was designed by the Spanish sculptor Arturo Mélida. Made from a mix of materials, including bronze and marble, the tomb features intricate carvings that tell the story of Columbus’ voyages. 

The underside of Columbus' tomb

The Controversy: Are These Columbus’ True Remains?

But here’s the twist: Are the remains in Seville Cathedral really those of Christopher Columbus? This question has sparked debate among historians, scientists and enthusiasts for years. The Dominican Republic claims that it still holds the true remains of Columbus in the Columbus Lighthouse in Santo Domingo, and that the bones moved to Havana and later to Seville were actually those of his son, Diego.

In 2003, DNA testing was conducted on the remains in Seville, comparing them to the known DNA of Columbus’ brother, also named Diego, who’s buried in the city. The results were inconclusive but suggested a close familial match. While this supports the claim that Seville holds Columbus’ remains, the mystery remains unsolved — especially since the Dominican Republic has refused to allow the testing of the remains in Santo Domingo.

The Ghost of Columbus and His Troubled Legacy

Some say that Columbus’ spirit roams the cathedral, restless due to the uncertainty surrounding his remains. And it’s said that if you listen closely at night, you might hear the faint sound of waves lapping against a ship’s hull — Columbus’ spirit, still seeking the shores of a New World. It’s just one of the many legends of Seville Cathedral. 

While many Spaniards still recognize and honor Columbus for his role in history — particularly for his voyages that led to the European colonization of the Americas — there’s also a growing awareness and acknowledgment of the darker aspects of his legacy, recognizing the consequences of his expeditions, including the forced labor and diseases that devastated indigenous populations.

A few kings of Spain are buried in the Royal Chapel of Seville Cathedral.

The Capilla Real (Royal Chapel): Resting Place of Spanish Royalty

In most Gothic cathedrals, the eastern end is typically home to an apse and an ambulatory, designed to guide the flow of worshippers and pilgrims. But in Seville Cathedral, the eastern end holds something quite different and historically significant: the Capilla Real, or Royal Chapel. 

The Capilla Real

This impressive, domed structure houses the tombs of Spanish royalty. Dominating the chapel is the ornate burial site of King Ferdinand III, known as Ferdinand the Saint, whom we met out front — the monarch who played a critical role in the Reconquista by reclaiming Seville from Muslim rule in 1248. His body, said to be miraculously preserved, lies in a silver casket beneath the altar.

The chapel also contains the remains of Alfonso X, his son, a king remembered for his patronage of the arts and legal reforms, leading to his nickname Alfonso the Wise. 

Then there’s the tomb of Pedro I, often called Pedro the Cruel (or Pedro the Just by his supporters). Known for his ruthless methods of maintaining power, Pedro I rebuilt much of the nearby Real Alcázar of Seville. 

The treasury includes the Crown of the Virgin of the Kings, made in 1904.

The Treasury: Relics and Sacred Artifacts

Beyond the paintings and sculptures, Seville Cathedral houses a vast treasury filled with relics and sacred artifacts. Among the most notable is the Custodia de Arfe, a massive silver monstrance created by Enrique de Arfe in the early 16th century. Standing over 12 feet tall, this masterpiece of metalwork is used during the annual Corpus Christi procession, where it’s paraded through the streets of Seville.

The treasury also contains an array of other priceless items, from jewel-encrusted chalices to intricately carved crosses. 

The Vision of Saint Anthony of Padua by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, 1656. At one point, the saint had been cut out of the painting and smuggled to the U.S.!

Murillo’s Masterpieces: Capturing Divine Grace

Seville Cathedral is home to many works of art, but among the most revered are the paintings of Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, one of Spain’s greatest Baroque artists. Murillo’s work is known for its luminous quality, capturing the divine grace of his subjects with an almost ethereal softness. 

In The Vision of Saint Anthony of Padua, the saint gazes upwards, his expression one of pure rapture, as the Christ Child appears before him in a radiant burst of light. Here’s a crazy story: Saint Anthony was cut out of the painting in 1874 and smuggled to the United States, where an immigrant sold it to a New York gallery owner. Thankfully, the man made sure it was returned to the cathedral.

Other works by Murillo in the cathedral include The Immaculate Conception, Saint Isidore of Seville and Saint Leander of Seville. 

Saints Justa and Rufina by Francisco de Goya, 1817. The women are the patron saints of Seville.

Zurbarán and Goya: Masters of Light and Shadow

The cathedral’s collection also includes paintings by Francisco de Zurbarán and Francisco de Goya, two other giants of Spanish art. Zurbarán’s work is known for its dramatic use of light and shadow, creating a sense of intense spirituality.

Goya, on the other hand, brings a more psychological depth to his works. His Santa Justa and Santa Rufina, depicting the two patron saints of Seville, is a study in contrasts — between light and shadow, and faith and suffering. The saints’ expressions are both serene and sorrowful, capturing the complex emotions of their martyrdom. 

The Patio de los Naranjos was part of the original mosque that stood on this site.

The Patio de los Naranjos

Tucked away within Seville Cathedral lies the Patio de los Naranjos, a courtyard steeped in history and shaded by fragrant orange trees. This serene space is one of the few surviving remnants from the original Almohad mosque that once stood on this site. Built in the late 12th century, the patio was initially used by Muslim worshippers for ablutions, a ritual washing before prayer. 

The patio’s arched entranceways and elegant fountains have been preserved, though the orange trees themselves were likely added after the Christian Reconquest. 

Seville Cathedral was built on the site of a 12th century Almohad mosque, with some elements retained.

The courtyard’s irrigation system is a holdover from the mosque’s original design. Channels carved into the stone floor direct water to the trees and fountain, showcasing the advanced engineering techniques of the period. 

Beyond its architectural significance, the Patio de los Naranjos has also served as a gathering place over the years — first for religious purposes, and later as a civic space where citizens met, traded goods and exchanged news. 

La Giralda was undergoing repairs when we visited.

Restoration and Preservation: Protecting a Cultural Treasure

The largest Gothic cathedral in the world: With such a significant title comes great responsibility. Over the years, Seville Cathedral has undergone numerous restoration and preservation efforts aimed at protecting its delicate structures and priceless artworks from the ravages of time. These projects are often painstakingly complex, involving skilled artisans and conservators who work to maintain the integrity of the cathedral’s original design while using modern techniques to ensure its longevity.

One of the most significant recent restoration projects focused on La Giralda. Over centuries, exposure to the elements had taken its toll on the tower’s intricate stonework, leading to erosion and structural weakening. The restoration, completed in the early 2000s, involved carefully cleaning and repairing the stone, reinforcing weakened areas and restoring the tower’s original splendor. Today, La Giralda stands tall, a beacon for all of Seville — and, as mentioned, its temporary replacement can be seen in the entrance courtyard. 

Inside the cathedral, restoration work is ongoing as well. The high altar, with its intricate gilded panels, has been the focus of several preservation efforts aimed at protecting it from humidity and pollution. 

Similarly, the cathedral’s numerous chapels, paintings and sculptures are regularly monitored and conserved to ensure they remain as vibrant and inspiring as they were when first created.

The Puerta del Perdón (Door of Forgiveness) gets its name from the tradition of granting absolution to debtors and sinners who entered through it.

A Major Tourist Attraction: Drawing the World to Seville

Seville Cathedral is one of the city’s top tourist attractions, drawing millions of visitors each year who come to explore its architectural wonders, artistic treasures and historical significance. The cathedral’s central location makes it an essential stop on any tour of Seville.

Guided tours, often led by knowledgeable local historians, offer visitors a chance to delve deeper into the history of Seville Cathedral and its many hidden stories. 

In addition to its historical and religious significance, the cathedral offers one of the best views in Seville. Visitors can climb to the top of the Giralda tower, following the same winding ramps that were once used by horseback riders to ascend to the top. 

From there, the panoramic view of Seville is breathtaking, with the city’s rooftops, narrow streets and distant hills stretching out as far as the eye can see. It’s a view that not only showcases the beauty of Seville but also puts the cathedral’s dominance over the cityscape into perspective.

The cathedral interior doesn't instill that immediate awe that so many others do — until you look up.

Is the Seville Cathedral Worth Visiting?

The cathedral’s interior is vast, covering an area of about 124,000 square feet (over 11,500 square meters). However, unlike many other large cathedrals where the central nave and the main altar dominate the space, Seville Cathedral has a somewhat fragmented layout that feels sprawling and compartmentalized. It just doesn’t inspire the immediate awe that other Spanish churches do, like the Iglesia de los Santos Mártires and Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol in Málaga. Maybe I’m just not a huge fan of Gothic interiors — I felt similarly underwhelmed at Notre-Dame in Paris. 

Numerous chapels, side altars and smaller spaces break up the vast interior. One reason for this disjointed feel is the fact that the cathedral was constructed over more than a century, with different architects and styles influencing its design. The structure incorporates elements from its previous incarnation as a mosque, Gothic architecture, Renaissance additions and even Baroque influences in later restorations. This mix of styles and the extended timeline of construction contributed to the compartmentalized nature of the interior.

If you have extra time during your stay in Seville, the cathedral is certainly worth a visit — if only to appreciate its historical significance, the impressive Giralda and its role in the city’s rich cultural tapestry. However, if your schedule is tight, you shouldn’t feel bad about prioritizing other adventures in Seville. 

Mary holding a young Jesus

Saint Rufina and Saint Fulgentius

A Center of Faith: Continuing Religious Significance

Despite its status as a major tourist attraction, Seville Cathedral remains first and foremost a place of worship. Every day, locals and pilgrims alike come to the cathedral to attend Mass, light candles and seek spiritual solace in its sacred spaces. 

For many Sevillanos, the cathedral is a symbol of their identity, a place where personal and communal faith is expressed and celebrated. Its bells toll for the city’s most significant moments, marking everything from joyous occasions like weddings and christenings to solemn events like funerals. In every way, the cathedral is woven into the fabric of daily life in Seville.

As happens in Spain, some of the chapels are caged off, so you have to admire the small surprises throughout the space, like this pillar.

Visiting Seville Cathedral

Hours: 

Monday: 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.
Tuesday to Saturday: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Sunday: 2:30 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Admission: Generally €9 for adults, with discounts available for students and seniors. 
Children under 14 can enter for free. 
Check the official website for any changes or special events that may affect hours. 

Buying tickets: We found that tickets had sold out days in advance. It’s highly recommended to buy tickets online as early as possible. Tickets can also be bought at the cathedral box office if they’re still available. 

Free entry: You can explore the cathedral without a ticket in the morning, before one of their mass services, typically held at 8 and 10 a.m. Keep in mind they’ll kick you out about 15 minutes before the service starts. We do wish we had taken a proper tour — we would have come away with more of an appreciation of this historic site. 

Grab a bite at one of the many cafés along Calle Mateos Gago.

Exploring the Area: A Walk Through the Heart of Seville

Chances are you’ll find yourself walking past the Seville Cathedral numerous times on any given visit. 

It’s in the Plaza del Triunfo, a beautiful square that forms the heart of the city’s historic district. Nearby is the Real Alcázar, a stunning palace complex that’s not to be missed, as well as the General Archive of the Indies, a treasure trove of documents that chronicle Spain’s colonial empire. 

The plaza and the narrow streets that fan out from it are lined with charming shops, boutiques and eateries (including a Starbucks we found ourselves stopping at most days). 

Fuente Farola, or Lamp Post Fountain

Alongside the cathedral is the Fuente Farola, a fountain topped by an enormous, ornate lamp post. Beyond this, you’ll find Calle Mateos Gago, a lively thoroughfare teeming with outdoor cafés and tapas bars. This street is a local favorite, especially in the evenings, when the tables are filled with people enjoying a meal and a drink while watching the world go by. There’s also a spot where you can indulge in the delectable Portuguese tarts known as pasteis de nata, a sweet treat that Duke instantly became addicted to.

Grab one and explore the Barrio Santa Cruz, the adjoining historic Jewish quarter. This maze of narrow streets, whitewashed houses and hidden courtyards is one of Seville’s most picturesque neighborhoods. 

Visiting Seville Cathedral isn’t just about seeing the largest Gothic cathedral in the world — it’s about immersing yourself in the vibrant life of Seville. The cathedral is at the heart of a district that’s rich with history, culture and the everyday pleasures of Andalusian life. –Wally

Catedral de Sevilla

Avenida de la Constitución, s/n
Casco Antiguo
41004 Sevilla
Spain

 

Beyond Paris: Travel to Lesser-Known France

The most underrated places in France: Nantes, Amiens and Rennes — where mechanical elephants, floating gardens and medieval wonders await your next adventure.

Porte Saint-Pierre in Nantes

Sure, Paris is the City of Love, the place where couples smooch along the Seine. But if you think France is just pain au chocolat, promenades and Paris, you’re just scratching the surface. Once you’ve marveled at the must-sees and taken more Eiffel selfies than your Instagram can handle, it’s time to move beyond Paris into the France that doesn’t always make it into the guidebooks.

We’re not saying you should skip Paris — there are just some hidden gems you should also check out.

First Up: Gay Paree

Of course, any trip to France is worth a stop-off in Paris. The first rule? Don’t be in a rush. Paris is a city meant to be savored — one street, one café, one perfect pastry at a time. 

Begin your journey on foot, meandering through boulevards filled with the smell of fresh bread, the buzz of busy terraces and architecture that just might be older than your country. 

Once you’re ready to kick things up a notch, switch over to the Métro or tram — the real Parisian way to get around. Sure, you could opt for taxis or ride-shares, but you’d be missing the electric hum of everyday life on the city’s veins.

Of course, you’ll want to plan ahead. If you want to visit the Louvre, don’t even think about showing up without pre-booked tickets. Skip the epic queues and head straight into the thick of it. 

Or, if you’re craving a bit more underworld mystique, take the plunge into the Catacombs of Paris — a dark, fascinating corner of the city. 

And for the romantics, the Eiffel Tower may be free to admire from below, but if you want to climb up, save yourself time (and foot cramps) by booking your tickets in advance.

Jardin des Tuileries

Picnics, Cruises and Prepping for the Great Escape

Before you say your final “au revoir” to Paris, it’s time to embrace the most Parisian of pastimes: picnicking in a garden. Pack up a basket with a crusty baguette, some fancy cheese, and a bottle of rosé — this is France, after all. Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, Jardin des Tuileries and Luxembourg Gardens are the perfect spots to recharge. 

But Paris is just the beginning. Once you’ve ticked off the iconic sights, why not step into the real adventure — those lesser-known spots where the crowds thin and the charm thickens. Take a road trip or hop on a train, and dive into the countryside, where France has some seriously under-the-radar gems waiting for you.

Here’s your guide to three fascinating cities that will make your trip to France unforgettable.

Nantes: The City of Innovation and Imagination

If there’s a city where imagination runs wild, it’s Nantes. Perched along the Loire River, this historic gem was once the bustling capital of Brittany and a powerhouse of trade and commerce. Fast forward to today, and Nantes has reinvented itself as a vibrant playground for artists, engineers and visionaries — where creativity isn’t just encouraged, it’s celebrated at every turn.

Must-See Attractions in Nantes

Les Machines de l’Île: A fantastical world inspired by Jules Verne and Leonardo da Vinci, this is one of Nantes’ most famous attractions. Here, you’ll find mechanical animals, including the iconic 40-foot-tall elephant that you can ride as it lumbers through the streets.

Château des Ducs de Bretagne: This 13th century castle is a key part of Nantes’ history. Once the seat of the dukes of Brittany, it now houses a museum that tells the story of the city’s past, including its shameful role in the transatlantic slave trade.

Les Anneaux (The Rings) on l’Île de Nantes

Île de Nantes: The island at the heart of the city is a blend of modern art installations, restaurants and waterfront paths. You’ll find sculptures that pop up in unexpected places, and the island is a symbol of Nantes’ artistic resurgence.

Amiens: France’s Hidden Medieval Treasure

Perhaps Amiens hasn’t made your radar yet — but trust me, it’s one of France’s best-kept secrets, far from the touristy throngs most people associate with a trip to France. Nestled in the Haut-de-France region in the north, Amiens is divided by the River Somme and boasts a blend of charm, history and, yes, some seriously Instagrammable spots. If you’re hunting for a place to grab some mouthwatering French cuisine or buy a perfectly aged bottle of wine, the shops and cafés along Quartier St.-Leu’s narrow, cobbled streets are practically begging you to stop by.

Now, here’s the kicker: Amiens is ridiculously budget-friendly. Sure, France has a rep for being on the pricey side, especially if you’re staying where all the iconic sites are. But in Amiens? You can snag top-tier hotels without emptying your wallet. So while you might be pinching pennies in hostels across Paris or Marseilles, Amiens is where you treat yourself to a touch of luxury. Balance, my friends. Amiens is the city that gets it.

Must-See Attractions in Amiens

Amiens Cathedral: This Gothic masterpiece is one of the largest churches in the world and boasts intricate carvings and towering spires. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, it’s known for its exceptional beauty. The cathedral’s façade was originally painted in vibrant colors. Over time, the paint wore away, leaving the stone we see today. During the summer, a light show recreates these original rainbow hues.

Les Hortillonnages: These floating gardens are situated on a network of canals and have been cultivated since the Middle Ages. You can explore them by boat, winding through the greenery and flower-filled gardens that seem worlds away from the city streets.

Maison de Jules Verne: While Verne was born in Nantes, he spent much of his life in Amiens, where he wrote some of his famous novels. His former home is now a museum that gives visitors a glimpse into his world and imagination.

Rennes: Medieval Meets Modern

In the final stop on our tour of underrated French gems, the road less traveled takes us to Rennes, the capital of Brittany, where history and modernity collide in the best way possible. What sets Rennes apart? Picture medieval half-timbered houses lining the streets, right alongside the imposing grandeur of the cathedral. It’s like stepping into a time machine — but with better coffee.

Must-See Attractions in Rennes

Parlement de Bretagne: Once the seat of the Brittany parliament, this grand building is a must-see for history buffs. It survived a major fire in the 1990s and was carefully restored. Guided tours give visitors a glimpse into the past and the intricate artwork inside.

Thabor Gardens: One of France’s most beautiful public parks, the Thabor Gardens span 25 acres (10 hectares) and include a French garden, English garden, rose garden and aviary. It’s the perfect spot for a quiet escape after a day of sightseeing.

Musée des Beaux-Arts: Art lovers will feel right at home in this museum, which boasts works from European masters like Rubens, Botticelli and Picasso. The museum’s collection covers everything from ancient Egyptian artifacts to modern art.

The Rennes Opera House

France off the Beaten Path

France is so much more than Paris. By stepping off the beaten path and exploring places like Nantes, Amiens and Rennes, you’ll not only escape the tourist crowds but will also discover the true heart of the country. It’s in the untapped corners, the quiet lanes and the lesser-known wonders. As they say: Life is about the adventures you take and the memories you make. –Sadie Smith

Fall Foliage in Japan: A Guide to Experiencing the Spectacular Koyo

Discover the best places for autumn in Japan, including Hokkaido, Nikko, Fuji Five Lakes, Kyoto and Tokyo. Plus, you’ll fall for these  cultural traditions and travel tips.

Japan in fall is a spectacle of vibrant colors and cultural traditions, with every corner of the country bursting into hues of red, orange and yellow. Known as koyo, the brilliant display of autumn leaves makes this the perfect time to soak up Japan’s natural beauty. But if you’re aiming for the best fall foliage spots and wondering about cultural traditions tied to the season, don’t worry — I’ve got you covered.

“Known as koyo, the brilliant display of autumn leaves makes fall the perfect time to soak up Japan’s natural beauty.”

Before heading off, make sure you check the Japan fall foliage forecast for the year so you hit the peak time for those autumn hues. Now, let’s dive into the top spots for fall foliage viewing, starting with the early birds all the way to the late bloomers. 

Hokkaido

Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, is home to Daisetsuzan National Park, one of the first places to catch the autumn colors. Starting mid-September, you can hike around Kogen Onsen for a kaleidoscope of leaves. Just don’t forget your bear safety orientation — these woods are home to some of Japan’s most curious critters. Another fall gem? Noboribetsu, known for its eerie “Hell Valley,” where volcanic hot springs and bubbling pools make for a steamy, surreal leaf-viewing experience.

Nikko

Nikko offers one of the longest koyo seasons in Japan. The leaf-changing magic starts mid-October near the waterfalls, before spreading in golden waves across Senjogahara Marshland and up to Lake Chuzenji. The stunning contrast of colors against the blue waters is definitely a sight you don’t want to miss.

Fuji Five Lakes

With Mount Fuji towering above, the Fuji Five Lakes region is undeniably a showstopper. In early November, the northern shores of Lake Kawaguchiko are prime for leaf viewing, with the snow-capped peak looming in the background. If you’re feeling adventurous, this could be your basecamp for a late fall climb.

Kyoto

Kyoto, with its historic temples and gardens, steals the show in mid-to-late November. Arashiyama, known for its bamboo grove, becomes even more magical when framed by autumn colors — yes, the same spot you’ve seen in Memoirs of a Geisha. Kiyomizu-dera Temple, perched above a sea of crimson leaves, offers stunning views, and its nighttime illuminations give the foliage an otherworldly glow.

Tokyo

Even Tokyo gets in on the action. By late November, Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden lights up with reds and yellows, offering a stunning mix of Japanese, English, and French-style gardens. Meanwhile, Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens showcase fiery maple leaves reflected in its serene ponds, blending nature with traditional Japanese design for a peaceful retreat in the city.

Types of Trees You’ll See for Japanese Fall Foliage

Japanese maple (momiji): The star of the season, momiji trees light up the landscape with their fiery red leaves, becoming the very symbol of autumn in Japan.

Ginkgo: With their distinctive fan-shaped leaves turning a brilliant yellow, ginkgo trees are a common sight in cities, parks and temples and lining streets.

Rowan and larch: Adding splashes of orange and yellow, these trees round out the autumn palette, with larch standing out as the only conifer that drops its needle-shaped leaves for the season.

How to Get Around for Japan’s Fall Foliage

Japan Rail Pass: The perfect ticket to hop between major cities and regions. If you’re planning to cover a lot of ground with long-distance trips, this is both a convenient and cost-effective option.

Public transportation: In bustling cities like Tokyo and Kyoto, the train and bus networks make getting around a breeze. 

Car rental: When you’re heading to more remote spots like Nikko or Hokkaido, a rental car gives you the freedom to escape the crowds and explore at your own pace.

Cultural Traditions for Koyo

The Japanese don’t just admire the leaves — they “hunt” them. Momiji-gari, which literally translates to “autumn leaf hunting,” is all about appreciating the vivid colors, particularly those of the maple tree. And don’t be surprised if you spot some maple leaf tempura on menus — it’s a sweet seasonal treat.

The fall harvest also means festivals. Kyoto’s Jidai Matsuri on October 22 brings history to life with participants donning costumes from different periods of Japan’s past. Meanwhile, the Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival in Fukushima lights up the streets with floats covered in glowing red lanterns — it’s a sight not to be missed.

Travel Tips for Fall Foliage in Japan

Plan ahead. 
With autumn being a prime time for visitors, accommodations fill up fast. Be sure to book early and keep an eye on foliage forecasts to catch the peak colors.

Layer your clothing. 
The temperatures swing throughout the day, so dressing in layers will keep you comfortable no matter the weather.

Respect local customs. 
Temples and shrines hold a special place in Japanese culture. When visiting, be sure to follow local traditions and show proper etiquette. This might mean taking off your shoes before entering temple buildings, avoiding loud conversations, refraining from taking photos in restricted areas, and bowing to show respect when entering and leaving holy places.

On the Hunt for Fall Foliage 

Japan’s autumn certainly wows with its colors — but it’s also the culture, festivals and history that make this season so special. So grab your camera, plan your trip and get ready to “hunt” some of the most stunning fall views the world has to offer. –Julia Hill 

---

NATURE’S MARVELS

Symbolism in Italian Floristry: Flowers as Cultural and Religious Icons

Talk about flower power! From passionate roses to sacred lilies, Italian flowers speak a language all their own. Learn the meanings behind these blooms and how they’ve shaped Italian culture and faith for centuries.

Floristry in Italy is nothing short of an art form. Each bloom embodies deep cultural significance and religious symbolism. As a country rich in history and tradition, Italy uses flowers to communicate emotions, celebrate life events and honor spiritual customs. 

If you’re thinking, “I want to find an Italy florist near me,” wait till you learn more about the symbolism of different blooms and their role as cultural and religious icons.

“Flowers in Italy convey emotions beyond what words can express, preserving the depth of human feeling through their beauty and meaning.”

The Meanings of Flowers in Italian Culture

In Italy, the use of flowers is pervasive, from weddings and other festive occasions to mourning rituals. The country has a rich history of floriculture, with each flower holding distinct meanings. Italian flora is often associated with various legends, poems and folklore, where the narratives shape public perception of these flowers.

The rose: Love and passion

The rose, one of the world’s most celebrated flowers, holds a special place in Italian culture. Red roses are the ultimate symbol of passion and desire, often chosen to express heartfelt love. White roses, on the other hand, represent purity and new beginnings, making them a favorite at weddings, while yellow roses can symbolize friendship and joy (though they’re sometimes associated with jealousy). The rose’s rich symbolism reflects the complexities of relationships, capturing love in all its forms.

The lily: Purity and devotion

In religious contexts, the lily is a powerful symbol of purity and devotion. Often linked to the Virgin Mary in Christian iconography, this delicate flower represents innocence, virtue and renewal. In mythology, the lily is also associated with chastity, said to have originated from a drop of milk that fell from the breast of Juno, the Roman goddess of love and marriage. Lilies are frequently used to decorate churches and religious festivals, elevating their sacred significance. 

The sunflower: Loyalty and adoration

The sunflower, with its bright yellow petals and seed-filled center, symbolizes loyalty and adoration. Italian florists often use sunflowers for celebratory occasions, expressing joy and warmth. Additionally, the flower is associated with the concept of followership, as its Italian name, girasole, literally “turning to the sun.” In Italy, sunflowers bloom from mid-June to early August in the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and the Marche, covering the Italian countryside.

Flower Festivals in Italy

Italy, a country renowned for its stunning landscapes, rich history and vibrant culture, also celebrates its natural beauty through a variety of flower festivals that occur throughout the year. These festivals highlight the country’s love of nature and artistry while showcasing the colors and scents of Italian flora.

Infiorata di Genzano di Roma

One of the most enchanting floral festivals is the Infiorata, with Genzano, a picturesque medieval hill town near Rome hosting one of the oldest. Typically held in June, this tradition dates back to 1788 and transforms the Via Italo Belardi into an elaborate carpet of flowers. Approximately 350,000 to 400,000 petals are arranged like mosaics into intricate designs, often depicting religious or cultural themes. As dawn breaks, locals unveil their masterpieces, inviting visitors to wander through a floral wonderland, where the artistry of each design and the fragrance of fresh petals create a magical atmosphere. 

Infiorata di Spello

Another highlight is the Flower Festival of Spello, a charming hilltop town in Umbria. Every year, during the Feast of Corpus Christi, the ninth Sunday after Easter, the town bursts into color as townspeople meticulously select and gather flowers: roses, carnations, daisies and marigolds, to name a few. The floral creations cover streets throughout the historical center in preparation for the passage of the Blessed Sacrament carried in procession by the bishop on Sunday morning. 

Corso Fiorito

Each spring, the coastal town of Sanremo celebrates its floral heritage with a parade of flower-covered floats. Set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Italian Riviera, the festival offers visitors a chance to immerse themselves in the beauty and charm of the Liguria region. The festival’s origins trace back to 1904, when Count Alfredo di Villamarina organized a parade featuring flower-adorned carts and carriages, naming it Festa della Dea Flora (Feast of the Goddess Flora) in honor of the patron deity of flowers. By the 1930s, grand allegorical floats covered in intricate floral designs made their debut, along with the battaglia dei fiori — a playful “battle” where people in the streets and on the floats tossed flowers at one another. While this lively tradition has since died out in Sanremo, it still occurs in the nearby town of Ventimiglia.

Flowers for Mourning and Commemoration

But flowers aren’t all about celebration. In Italy, particular blooms carry meanings associated with grief, remembrance and consolation. The chrysanthemum, for example, is commonly used in funerals and memorial services, symbolizing grief, remembrance and the fleeting nature of life. 

The Language of Flowers 

The symbolism of flowers in Italy is woven with threads of history, culture and faith. Each bloom, from the passionate red rose to the pure white lily, tells its own story, reflecting the values and beliefs of a nation where flowers are more than just decoration — they’re expressions of life itself.

Flowers in Italy remain a timeless and powerful form of communication. They convey emotions beyond what words can express, preserving the depth of human feeling through their beauty and meaning. Whether celebrating love, mourning a loss or marking a spiritual occasion, the language of flowers speaks to the heart of Italian cultural identity. –Mia Roberts

How to Celebrate Mabon: Rituals, Traditions and the Magic of the Autumn Equinox

This Wiccan holiday marks the season of balance, where gratitude, reflection and magic come together as the leaves begin to fall.

You’re strolling through a forest, the air crisp and tinged with the scent of fallen leaves. The trees are ablaze in golds, reds and oranges, as if they’re throwing one last, fiery party before winter. You hear the crunch of leaves underfoot, a squirrel hustling to stash away its final acorns, and somewhere in the distance, the faintest echo of a harvest song that feels both ancient and familiar.

Welcome to Mabon — what Wiccans call the autumnal equinox — a celebration that straddles the line between the warmth of summer’s end and the encroaching cold of winter. It’s that magical time when day and night stand in perfect balance, a brief pause before darkness takes the lead. For Wiccans, Mabon marks the second harvest festival and a moment to give thanks for what’s been gathered — be it crops, wisdom or even a little sanity.

Mabon is the mirror image of the vernal equinox, the yin and yang of the wheel of the year, where light and dark shake hands before heading their separate ways.

So, whether you’re deep in the woods gathering herbs, arranging fruit in a cornucopia or just tossing your leftover summer produce into a pot of stew, Mabon invites you to pause and savor the season. This guide will take you through the history, the rituals and the ways you can make this equinox your own, whether you’re a seasoned witch or just someone who loves a good reason to cozy up with a warm apple cider.

The Myth of Mabon

Throughout the centuries, Mabon has been celebrated in one form or another across various cultures as people marked the turning of the seasons. 

The holiday takes its name from a figure in Welsh mythology: Mabon ap Modron, the "Great Son of the Mother.” He was taken from his mother’s arms when he was but three nights old. His mother’s cries of despair echoed through the land, for Mabon’s fate remained unknown, a mystery that confounded even the wisest of sages.

Years later, Culhwch, a noble warrior, set out on an epic quest to win the hand of Olwen, a maiden of unparalleled beauty. Yet, to win her, Culhwch faced impossible tasks, one of which required the hunting of the great boar, Twrch Trwyth. But to hunt this fearsome beast, Culhwch needed the aid of Mabon, the only man capable of holding the magical hounds necessary for the chase. However, Mabon was still lost to the world, and his whereabouts were shrouded in mystery.

Undeterred, Culhwch sought the help of King Arthur and his loyal knights. Together, they scoured the lands, but no trace of Mabon could be found. In their despair, they turned to the oldest and wisest of creatures in the world, who were thought to be the only ones who might know where Mabon was held.

They’re eventually led to the Salmon of Llyn Llyw, the oldest and wisest creature in all of Britain, who swam in the depths of the great river Severn. The Salmon, whose scales shimmered like the stars, revealed that he had heard the sorrowful cries of Mabon, imprisoned deep within the dark walls of Gloucester.

Guided by the Salmon, Culhwch and his companions found the fortress that held Mabon captive. The prison was a place of shadows, impenetrable and bleak. But with the help of their allies and the wisdom of the ancient creatures, they breached the fortress and freed Mabon from his chains.

Mabon emerged, a man of great strength and vitality, his spirit unbroken despite the years of captivity. Grateful for his rescue, he joined Culhwch and the knights in their quest. Together, they faced the formidable boar, and with Mabon’s help, they triumphed.

Autumn Equinox Around the World 

But long before Mabon’s Welsh tale found its place in Wiccan tradition, autumn equinox celebrations were already well underway. From ancient Greeks honoring Demeter during the Eleusinian Mysteries to Roman festivals for Ceres, the goddess of the harvest, this time of year has always been about the fruits of labor, balance and preparing for the leaner times ahead. Even the Norse had their own harvest festivals to thank the earth for its gifts.

Mabon, as a modern Wiccan celebration, borrows from these older traditions and weaves them into a tapestry of gratitude, balance and preparation. The myths and stories remind us that just as Mabon himself emerged from the shadows with wisdom, so too can we take stock of what we’ve gained over the year and let go of what no longer serves us. As the wheel turns, we’re reminded that in every season of darkness, there’s a seed of light waiting to grow.

Symbols and Correspondences of Mabon

Mabon is a feast for the senses, full of rich colors, earthy scents, and symbols that speak to the balance and abundance of the season. From the familiar apple to the ancient cornucopia, these symbols are more than just pretty decorations — they carry layers of meaning tied to gratitude, cycles and the gifts of the earth.

Cornucopia: The Horn of Plenty

The cornucopia, or horn of plenty, is probably one of the most iconic symbols of Mabon. Picture a horn-shaped basket overflowing with fruit, nuts and grains — a symbol of the abundance and prosperity of the autumn harvest.

Legend has it that this symbol dates back to Greek mythology, with a goat’s horn whose milk fed Zeus, the king of the gods, as a baby. 

As a harvest festival, Mabon is the perfect time to share your bounty with others. 

Apples: The Fruit of Wisdom

If there’s one fruit that screams autumn, it’s the apple. But beyond pie and cider, apples have long been symbols of wisdom, knowledge and even magic. 

In Wiccan lore, slicing an apple reveals a hidden pentacle at its core, linking it to protection and balance. Use apples in rituals to call upon clarity and insight — or just snack on one as you sip spiced wine by the fire. Bonus points if you go apple-picking; it’s practically a Mabon rite of passage.

Colors: Reds, Oranges, Golds and Browns

The color palette of Mabon is one of deep warmth — think of a sunset splashed across the sky, or the scarlet leaves of a maple tree in the fall.

Incorporate these colors into your altar, clothing and candle choices during rituals. These hues speak of both the light we’re leaving behind and the cozy warmth we’re embracing.

• Reds represent the fading energy of the summer sun.

• Oranges and golds echo the harvest’s bounty.

• Browns ground us in the earth’s stability.

Herbs and Plants: Sage, Rosemary and Myrrh

As the nights grow longer, herbs like sage and rosemary come into focus for their protective and cleansing properties. Sage is known for clearing out the old and making space for new energies, while rosemary boosts memory and helps us hold onto what’s truly valuable. Myrrh, often associated with ancient rites, can be burned as incense to deepen meditation and spiritual reflection. 

Decorating with oak leaves or crafting a wreath of autumn herbs is a great way to invite these energies into your home.

Crystals: Amber, Citrine and Tiger’s Eye

Amber, with its golden glow, is often associated with preserving the warmth and energy of the sun, making it a perfect stone for Mabon. Citrine is known as the merchant’s stone, attracting abundance and prosperity, while Tiger’s Eye provides grounding and balance, reflecting the essence of the equinox.

Whether you carry them in your pocket, place them on your altar or incorporate them into a ritual, these crystals remind us to hold onto the season’s light as the world grows darker.

Mabon’s symbols are invitations to connect more deeply with the earth and our own sense of equilibrium. By incorporating these elements into your celebrations, you’re embodying the essence of the equinox, balancing the joys of what’s been harvested with the peace of what’s yet to come.

Preparing Your Altar: A Balance of Light and Dark

Setting up your Mabon altar is like arranging a diorama of the season’s energy — a space where gratitude, balance and abundance all come together. Whether you have an entire table to dedicate or just a cozy corner, your altar can reflect the themes of the equinox in a way that’s personal, magical and, of course, a little bit witchy. Here’s how to create a Mabon altar that radiates the warm, golden glow of the season while inviting balance and reflection. 

1. Choose your space: indoors or outdoors?

Before diving into the decorations, decide where your altar will live. If you’re lucky enough to have access to a garden, balcony or patio, consider setting up outdoors — there’s nothing like feeling the crisp air and hearing the rustle of leaves during your ritual. Indoors, a windowsill or side table works just as well, especially when you can let natural light (or candlelight) play across your altar.

2. Find an altar cloth. 

Start with a cloth in the rich colors of Mabon — think deep burgundy, golden yellow, burnt orange or earthy brown. If you want to get really symbolic, you can use a cloth with two contrasting colors to represent the balance of light and dark, day and night. Or, opt for something with an autumnal pattern like leaves, vines or even apples.

3. Create a centerpiece. 

Every altar needs a focal point that draws the eye and sets the tone. For Mabon, the cornucopia is a classic choice, filled with seasonal fruits, nuts and grains. If you’re not up for crafting a full-on cornucopia, a simple bowl or basket overflowing with apples, pomegranates, grapes and acorns will do the trick. You could also place a large candle at the center, symbolizing the waning light of the year — yellow or gold for the sun’s energy, or deep red for the warmth of the hearth.

4. Balance your ritual components.

Since Mabon is all about balance, make sure your altar reflects this theme. Place candles or objects that represent light on one side and darker items on the other. You could use white and black candles, sun and moon figures, or contrasting crystals like citrine and smoky quartz. The idea is to create a visual representation of the equinox’s equal division of day and night.

5. Add some seasonal touches. 

Next, bring in the natural elements that celebrate the season’s harvest. Gather fallen leaves, acorns, pinecones, and small gourds to scatter across the altar. Fresh herbs like sage, rosemary and thyme add both aroma and energy, while a few sprigs of wheat or dried corn stalks nod to the agricultural roots of the festival. If you want to get crafty, a DIY wreath of autumn leaves or a bouquet of marigolds and chrysanthemums makes a stunning addition.

6. Infuse intentions with crystals and other symbols. 

Mabon is a great time to work with crystals like amber, tiger’s eye and carnelian, all of which carry the grounding, warming energies of the season. Place them around your centerpiece or in the corners of your altar to represent stability, abundance and personal growth. 

You might also include small symbols like pentacles, apples with the star revealed inside or a small cauldron to represent transformation.

7. Now for some personal touches: What matters to you?

Finally, make your altar truly yours by including items that hold personal significance. This could be a gratitude jar where you place notes of thanks for the blessings you’ve received, a photo of loved ones or a piece of art that embodies the spirit of Mabon. If you’re planning specific rituals or intentions for the season, keep those tools — like a journal, tarot deck or  runes — within easy reach.

Your Mabon altar will become a living space that embodies the season’s energy and helps you connect with the themes of harvest, balance and gratitude. As you build and work with your altar, let it evolve with the changing season and reflect your personal journey as we all shift from light to dark. Whether your space is grand or humble, the intention you set will fill it with the magic of Mabon.

A Mabon Ritual

Mabon is a time to reflect on the balance between light and dark and to express gratitude for the abundance in our lives. Whether you’re working in a sprawling backyard or in the quiet corner of your living room, this solo ritual is designed to help you connect with the energies of the equinox while honoring the harvest, both literal and metaphorical.

What you’ll need

• A small candle (preferably in a harvest color like orange, red or gold)

• A bowl or basket of seasonal items (apples, acorns, dried herbs, nuts, etc.)

• A piece of paper and a pen

• An offering (this could be a portion of your harvest items or a small libation of wine or cider)

• Any crystals or tools you work with (optional)

• A comfortable spot where you can sit and reflect

1. Set the space. 

Find a quiet place where you can be undisturbed. Cleanse the area with sage, rosemary, or simply by lighting your candle with intention. If you’re outdoors, let the wind and natural sounds be your “cleanser.” As you prepare, take a few deep breaths, centering yourself and letting go of any distractions.

2. Begin the ritual. 

Cast a ritual circle if you want. 

Light your candle and say:

“As the wheel turns, I stand at the balance of light and dark. I honor the harvest, the fruits of my labor and the gifts of the earth. I give thanks for the abundance that has filled my life, and I welcome the peace of the dark half of the year.”

Feel the warmth of the candlelight as a symbol of the sun’s last strong days before winter takes hold.

3. Reflect on the harvest. 

Take your basket of seasonal items and hold it in your hands. Close your eyes and think about the “harvests” in your own life: What have you accomplished, learned or gained over the past year? What challenges have you faced, and how have you grown from them? Let these thoughts flow freely, whether they’re about work, relationships, personal growth or even small daily victories.

As you reflect, select one item from your basket to represent each “harvest” or blessing you’re grateful for. Hold the item in your hands and focus on the gratitude it represents. If you feel moved to, speak your thanks aloud: 

“I give thanks for the lesson learned in [situation]. I honor the growth it brought me.”

Place each item back in the basket with intention, seeing it as a vessel holding your gratitude and your offerings to the earth.

4. Balance  light and dark. 

Now, on your piece of paper, draw a simple line down the center. On one side, write “Light” and on the other, “Dark.” 

Under “Light,” jot down the things you’re grateful for: the abundance, joy and lessons you’ve harvested.

Under “Dark,” write what you’re ready to release: the burdens, old habits or regrets you wish to leave behind as you enter the quieter, more introspective half of the year.

Hold the paper in your hands and meditate on the balance between these two sides. Know that both are necessary for growth, and that letting go makes space for new beginnings. When you’re ready, fold the paper and place it under your basket as a symbolic offering to the balance of the season.

5. Make your offering. 

Choose a portion of your harvest items, such as an apple, some dried herbs or a handful of nuts, and set them aside as an offering. If you’re outdoors, you can leave this offering in a place that feels significant — at the base of a tree, near a stream or in a garden. If you’re indoors, you can save the offering to place outside later or simply offer a libation of wine, cider or juice.

As you leave your offering, say:

“I give back to the earth what she has given to me. May the balance of light and dark bring peace and renewal.”

6. Close the ritual. 

Take a moment to feel the energy you’ve cultivated. Close your eyes and visualize the candle’s light merging with the coming darkness, creating a harmonious balance. When you’re ready, blow out the candle and say:

“The wheel turns, the harvest is gathered, and balance is restored. So it is, and so it shall be.”

Take a few deep breaths (try inhaling through your nose for four seconds, holding your breath for seven seconds, and then exhaling through your mouth for eight seconds). This will ground you back into your space. If you’d like, enjoy one of the seasonal items from your basket as a way to take in the energy of Mabon.

This ritual is simple yet powerful, allowing you to connect with the essence of Mabon in a way that’s personal and meaningful. Whether you keep it brief or let it evolve into a longer reflection, the key is to honor both the light and the dark, giving thanks for what you’ve received while gracefully letting go of what’s ready to pass.

Mabon Feasts: A Harvest of Flavor

What’s a harvest celebration without a good feast? Mabon is the perfect excuse to break out your coziest recipes and gather with friends — or just treat yourself! 

Traditional foods like apple pie, roasted root vegetables, hearty breads, and anything spiced with cinnamon or cloves take center stage. If you’re feeling adventurous, try making your own cider or mulled wine. Even a simple meal of seasonal vegetables can feel magical when paired with intention — each bite a reminder of the earth’s bounty. 

The key is to embrace abundance while also giving thanks. Consider sharing your feast with friends or preparing a small extra portion as an offering to the spirits of nature or your household deities.

Mabon Crafts and Activities

Mabon is a season rich with DIY opportunities. For the crafty at heart, try making a wreath with fallen leaves, acorns and dried flowers. 

You can also create a gratitude jar. Write down things you’re thankful for on slips of paper and add them to the jar throughout the season. Seeing the jar fill up can be an effective way to track your progress and, as the months grow darker, help you focus on the positive aspects of your life. 

For those who prefer a more meditative approach, take a nature walk with the intention of gathering small natural items that call to you: pinecones, colorful leaves or interesting stones. Use them to decorate your home or altar, creating a connection between the outdoors and your sacred space.

Another meaningful activity is journaling. Reflect on what you’re harvesting in your own life: lessons learned, challenges overcome, goals achieved. Mabon is about both celebration and preparation, so let your creative energy flow as you transition into the quieter months ahead.

These simple yet meaningful touches help make Mabon a time to embrace the fullness of the season while grounding yourself in gratitude and balance.

Mabon: Gathering the Season’s Blessings

As the wheel of the year turns and Mabon ushers in the deeper shadows of autumn, we’re reminded that life is a balance — a dance between light and dark, abundance and scarcity, celebration and introspection. 

Mabon is the perfect time to reflect on what you’ve gathered this year — and to consider what you’re ready to release. Whether you’re diving into a ritual or simply taking a moment to notice the things around you and appreciate the effort that went into making them, Mabon’s energy is about tuning into the balance within and around us.

With these elements woven together, you’re ready to fully embrace Mabon in a way that’s meaningful, magical and uniquely yours. 

Happy Mabon! May your harvest be abundant, your balance steady, and your heart full as the wheel turns toward the darker days ahead. –Wally

---

Seville Cathedral: Its Rich History and Stunning Architecture

A complete guide to a major part of Seville history, including La Giralda, Christopher Columbus, royal weddings and the Spanish Inquisition. 

In the heart of Seville stands a cathedral that defies simple description. Built on the ruins of a mosque, this massive Gothic masterpiece reflects the ambitions of a city eager to cement its place on the world stage.

Origins and Construction of Seville Cathedral

Seville in the late 14th century: a bustling hub of commerce and culture, still echoing with the influence of its Moorish past. The city is vibrant, filled with the sounds of merchants, artisans and the ever-present calls to prayer from the towering minaret of the Great Mosque of Seville, built during the Almohad dynasty, which dominates the skyline. 

Yet, beneath the surface, there’s a growing restlessness among the Christian rulers. They dream of an awe-inspiring structure that would not only dwarf the mosque but would also stand as a testament to the power of their piety.

In 1401, that dream begins to take shape. The city leaders, fueled by both ambition and a desire to solidify Christian dominance, gather to discuss the construction of a new cathedral. During one meeting, a church elder boldly declares, “Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will think we are mad.” 

The decision was made: Seville would build the largest cathedral in the world, a Gothic masterpiece that would leave an indelible mark on history.

The Transition From Mosque to Cathedral

But before this vision could be realized, there was the matter of the mosque. Built in the late 12th century, the Great Mosque was a symbol of Muslim rule in Seville. With its elegant arches, intricate tilework and towering minaret, it was a marvel of Islamic architecture. 

In the wake of the Reconquista, when the Christian states recaptured territory ruled by the Muslim Moors, the mosque was consecrated as a church. For over a century, it served as the city’s cathedral — but it was clear to the Christian rulers that something more magnificent was needed.

The decision was made to demolish most of the mosque, though the minaret and the Patio de los Naranjos (Courtyard of the Orange Trees) were spared, becoming integral parts of the new cathedral. This wasn’t just a practical decision but a symbolic one, blending the old with the new, and honoring the complex cultural history of Seville.

It certainly wasn’t the first time such appropriation took place. Spain in particular had a tendency to transition from mosques to churches, reflecting the shifts in power over the centuries. La Mezquita in Córdoba, with its blend of Islamic and Christian architecture, is not only one of the most striking but also the earliest example of such a transformation.  

Architectural Challenges and Triumphs

As construction began, the scale of the project quickly became apparent. The builders faced immense challenges, not least of which was the sheer size of the cathedral. 

At its peak, the construction site buzzed with hundreds of workers — stone masons, carpenters, artisans — all toiling to bring the ambitious vision to life. The air was thick with dust and the sound of chisels striking stone, as massive blocks of limestone were shaped into the soaring arches and ribbed vaults that define the Gothic style.

Key Figures in Seville Cathedral’s Creation

Behind this monumental effort were some of the most brilliant minds of the time. Master architects like Charles Galter and Alonso Martínez, among others, brought their expertise to the project. Galter, known for his work on other Gothic cathedrals in Spain, was particularly instrumental in the design of the soaring nave and the intricate stonework that adorns the exterior.

The artisans who carved the statues, the stonemasons who shaped each block, and the laborers who worked tirelessly day after day were all part of this grand endeavor. Their collective effort created something far greater than the sum of its parts.

The Grand Unveiling and Seville Cathedral’s Legacy

The construction of Seville Cathedral, or Catedral de Sevilla, took over a century to complete, with work continuing long after the original architects had passed away. But when the cathedral was finally finished in 1528, it was clear that their bold vision had been realized. When you visit the Seville Cathedral, you can only marvel at its scale, its beauty — and its audacity.

To the average Sevillano, its sheer size would have been overwhelming, a towering monument that seemed to reach up to Heaven itself. Its intricate details — gargoyles, statues of saints and other elaborate carvings — invite closer inspection, revealing new wonders at every turn.

La Giralda: From Minaret to Bell Tower 

The mosque that once stood here was the pride of the Islamic world, and its minaret — the future Giralda — was a marvel of engineering. The city’s Muslim residents would pause in their daily routines as the call to prayer echoed across the rooftops. The minaret was a spiritual beacon, guiding the faithful and asserting the dominance of Islam in the region.

It would remain a spiritual beacon — just for those of the Catholic faith now. In the 16th century, a Renaissance-style belfry was added to the top, transforming the minaret into a bell tower. 

At the very top of the tower stands El Giraldillo, a bronze statue that functions as a weathervane. This figure, representing Faith, stands with one foot firmly planted on the tower, while the other seems to step into the air, as if ready to take flight. 

Because the statue could turn with the wind, the tower itself came to be known as La Giralda, meaning “The One That Turns” or “The Spinner.”

La Giralda also plays a part in the eerie legends of Seville Cathedral, when a scorned bride-to-be cursed the bell tower and all those who dare to be unfaithful in its vicinity.

A Stage for History: Seville Cathedral’s Role in Historic Events

Royal Weddings: The Joining of Crowns and Countries

It’s October 18, 1526. The cathedral is adorned with tapestries, lit by the flickering flames of hundreds of candles. The air is filled with anticipation, as the people of Seville gather to witness the wedding of the century: the marriage of Holy Roman Emperor Charles V and Isabella of Portugal. The union of these two powerful figures promises to shape the future of Europe.

The bride and groom exchange vows beneath the towering altar, surrounded by the highest nobility of Spain and Portugal. The grandeur of the ceremony reflects the power and wealth of the Spanish empire at its height.

But this wasn’t the only royal wedding held in Seville Cathedral. Over the centuries, the cathedral has hosted numerous royal ceremonies, each one adding to its legacy as a place where the personal and the political intersect, where the fate of nations has often been decided at the altar.

The cathedral hosted the royal weddings of Philip II and Elisabeth of Valois in 1559; Philip III and Margaret of Austria in 1599; and Philip IV and Elisabeth of France in 1615, each marking significant political alliances in European history.

The Spanish Inquisition: A Dark Chapter

However, not all of the cathedral’s historical events were moments of celebration. The Spanish Inquisition, a dark chapter in the country’s history, also left its dubious mark on Seville Cathedral. During this time, the cathedral served as a setting for the public sentencing of those accused of heresy, events known as autos-da-fé (Portuguese for “acts of faith” — a euphemism if there ever was one). 

Picture it: The cathedral, normally a place of worship and reflection, is transformed into a courtroom. The accused, dressed in penitential robes, stand before the altar, their fates hanging in the balance. The atmosphere is tense, as the Inquisitors pass judgment in the name of religious purity. 

The results were horrific: Over 700 people were burned at the stake, and more than 5,000 others faced imprisonment, forced penance and the stripping away of their social status. 

These grim proceedings unfolded in public spectacles where fear and fanaticism reigned supreme, forever marking Seville as a place where religious zealotry took its darkest form.  

A Witness to the New World: Columbus and the Age of Exploration

Seville Cathedral also played a significant role during the Age of Exploration, when Spain was at the forefront of colonizing the Americas. The cathedral was the site of numerous ceremonies celebrating the successes of explorers like Columbus, whose voyages expanded the Spanish empire and brought immense wealth and influence to the crown.

One of the most poignant moments in this history occurred in 1502, when Columbus, known locally as Cristóbal Colón, then an old man, attended a mass at Seville Cathedral before departing on his fourth and final voyage to the Americas. 

Standing in the very same spot, you can almost imagine Columbus, weary yet resolute, contemplating the journey ahead. The cathedral, with its vastness and grandeur, must have seemed like a fitting place to seek divine favor before embarking on such a perilous and uncertain journey.

Semana Santa in Seville 

During Semana Santa, or Holy Week, in Seville, the streets fill with processions led by hooded nazarenos from various brotherhoods. Dressed in long robes and creepy pointed hoods known as capirotes that cover their faces, they carry candles or crosses in solemn silence. The color of their robes — black, purple, white, red or green — reflects the symbolism of their brotherhood. Massive, ornate floats (pasos) depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ or the sorrowful Virgin Mary are carried through the streets, held up by hidden penitents called costaleros. The air is filled with the sounds of traditional music or the haunting cry of a saeta, a flamenco-style song, creating a deeply spiritual atmosphere.

The processions begin and end at the cathedral, reinforcing its status as the spiritual heart of Seville. 

A Beacon of Resilience: Surviving Earthquakes and Wars

Seville Cathedral’s history is also a story of resilience. Over the centuries, it has withstood natural disasters and human conflicts that have threatened its very existence. One of the most significant of these was the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, which caused widespread devastation across Portugal and Spain. The cathedral suffered considerable damage, with sections of its roof collapsing and the Giralda tower sustaining cracks. 

Yet, the cathedral was repaired and restored, standing as a testament to the city’s determination to preserve its cultural treasures.

Then, during the Spanish Civil War, the cathedral was once again at risk. The conflict saw many religious buildings across Spain looted or destroyed — but Seville Cathedral was spared, thanks in part to the efforts of local citizens who recognized its importance to their heritage. 

A UNESCO World Heritage Site: Acknowledging Its Global Importance

In 1987, Seville Cathedral was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, alongside the Alcázar palace complex and the General Archive of the Indies. This prestigious recognition is a testament to the cathedral’s global significance.

As a UNESCO site, Seville Cathedral is recognized for its architectural splendor, its historical importance and its role as a center of cultural heritage. The designation also brings with it a commitment to preservation, ensuring that future generations will be able to experience the cathedral’s beauty and history as we do today. The recognition has helped to elevate the cathedral’s status on the world stage, attracting visitors from every corner of the globe who come to marvel at its grandeur and delve into its rich history.

A Symbol of the City

Today, the cathedral stands as a symbol of the resilience and enduring spirit of Seville, a city that has weathered the storms of history, adapted while honoring its past, and emerged stronger each time. –Wally

Pilgrimage Paths in Spain: 4 Tips for a Modern Traveler

From the best apps to which Camino route to choose, here’s how to prepare for the Camino de Santiago.

With beautiful landscapes, delicious food and charming customs, Spain has it all. But its pilgrimage sites are what truly make the country’s offerings unique. 

Embarking on the Camino de Santiago is more than a hike across Spain — it’s a journey steeped in history, spirituality and personal discovery. For centuries, pilgrims have walked these ancient paths, drawn by faith, adventure or simply the call of the open road. Today, the Camino welcomes travelers from all walks of life, blending tradition with modern comforts. 

“Coverage can be inconsistent along the more secluded stretches of the Camino.

Fortunately, there’s an easy solution: eSIMs.”

The network of routes dates back to the Middle Ages and leads to the burial site of the apostle Saint James. Despite the Christian focus, the pilgrimage paths are enjoyed by walkers, hikers and cyclists of all faiths. 

Whether you’re seeking solitude, cultural immersion or the camaraderie of fellow wanderers, this guide offers essential tips to make your pilgrimage a memorable one — without leaving the 21st century behind.

1. Research the right pilgrimage for you. 

The Camino de Santiago is a network of routes that span the entire country of Spain. Each promises its own experience with different cultures, adventures and challenges. Before booking, research the best routes for your needs and abilities. 

Some routes are short and pleasant, while others have high elevations and more difficulty. 

Camino Francés: Also known as “the French Way,” it’s the most iconic of all the Camino routes. Beginning in the charming town of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France, at the foothills of the Pyrenées, this journey takes you through a stunning tapestry of landscapes: rolling vineyards, rugged mountains, medieval villages and the golden fields of Castile. Covering around 500 miles (780 kilometers) and divided into 35 or so stages, it’s a physically demanding yet deeply fulfilling experience. 

Camino Del Norte: “The Northern Way” is a breathtaking coastal pilgrimage that offers a less crowded alternative to the more popular routes. Stretching over 500 miles (800 kilometers), with the final 62 miles (100 kilometers) being the most traveled, this path hugs the rugged cliffs and pristine beaches of northern Spain. 

Starting in the Basque Country, it meanders through charming fishing villages, vibrant seaside cities and lush green landscapes. The route showcases the diverse beauty of the Spanish shoreline, from the misty, mountainous regions of Asturias to the rolling hills of Cantabria. Along the way, pilgrims can indulge in the rich culture, world-class cuisine, and traditions of the Basque region — think pintxos, cider houses, and warm, welcoming locals. 

Although the trail can be challenging due to its steep ascents and descents, it rewards those who tackle it with awe-inspiring views of the Cantabrian Sea and a sense of serenity that only comes from walking paths less traveled.

Camino Inglés: Travelers with limited time might opt for “the English Way.” Stretching just 74 miles (119 kilometers), this route is one of the shortest and most accessible. Historically, it was the path taken by pilgrims from England, Ireland and Northern Europe who arrived by sea. 

Starting in either Ferrol or A Coruña, this trail winds through the lush Galician countryside, offering a mix of coastal views, quaint hamlets and dense forests. It’s a fantastic option for those looking to complete the journey in under a week while still embracing the essence of the Camino.

Camino Portugués: The second most popular Camino route, “the Portuguese Way,” offers a blend of rich culture and scenic landscapes across both Portugal and Spain. Pilgrims can start in Lisbon for a full 380-mile (610-kilometer) journey or opt for a shorter trek from Porto, covering 160 miles (260 kilometers). The route splits into two paths from Porto: the traditional Central Route, which takes you through historic cities and lush vineyards, and the Coastal Route, offering breathtaking ocean views and seaside towns. 

With gentler terrain compared to other routes, the Camino Portugués is accessible while still delivering a full pilgrimage experience. Highlights include Portugal’s historic landmarks, from Gothic cathedrals to the Templar Castle in Tomar, along with opportunities to savor local delicacies like pastéis de nata (custard tarts) and bacalhau (dried, salted cod). 

Camino Primitivo: “The Original Way” is the oldest and arguably the most challenging of the Camino routes. Dating back to the 9th century, this path was first taken by King Alfonso II when he made the pilgrimage to the newly discovered tomb of Saint James in Santiago de Compostela. Beginning in Oviedo, the Camino Primitivo spans approximately 200 miles (320 kilometers) through the rugged mountains of Asturias and Galicia.

This route is less traveled, offering a quieter and more introspective journey. The rewards are plentiful: breathtaking landscapes, encounters with ancient Roman roads and a strong sense of history. 

So, how do you find the best routes? Modern travelers can now use technology to explore the Camino before booking. For example, Google Arts & Culture has an extensive library of resources in an engaging format.

2. Get accreditation for your pilgrimage. 

Once you’ve mapped out your route, it’s time to prepare for the pilgrimage itself. An essential item you’ll need is the Pilgrim’s Credencial, often referred to as a “Pilgrim’s Passport.” This official document allows you to collect stamps at various points along your journey, serving as tangible proof of your progress.

Historically, the credential was granted to protect travelers during the Middle Ages. Today, it offers modern pilgrims additional perks. With the credencial, you gain access to special accommodations provided by Christian institutions throughout Spain. It also includes maps and guidance to help you navigate the pilgrimage routes. More importantly, it’s your certification for completing the Camino, allowing you to receive the Compostela certificate upon completing your journey in Santiago.

The credencial is available from institutions authorized by the Cathedral of Santiago. In response to the COVID pandemic, a digital version is now offered, allowing you to carry your credentials on your smartphone. 

3. Plan your connectivity ahead of time. 

No matter which route you choose, staying connected is essential — for keeping in touch with your group, accessing route maps, and updating friends and family. However, one thing that might catch you off guard is spotty connectivity. Once you start the Camino, you might find your smartphone struggling to connect. With no signal or data in some remote areas, you could feel stranded.

Even if you have an international roaming package, coverage can be inconsistent along the more secluded stretches of the Camino. Fortunately, there’s an easy solution for pilgrims heading to Spain: eSIMs.

So, what is an eSIM card? It’s a digital SIM already embedded in your smartphone that allows you to connect to the best local networks at your destination through an app. An eSIM helps ensure seamless connectivity across the varying landscapes of the Camino, even in remote areas. Whether you’re on the Camino Francés or starting your journey in Portugal, an eSIM automatically switches between networks as you cross borders, keeping you connected.

The best part? You can customize your eSIM plan to match your needs. If you don’t plan on using your smartphone often, choose a small data package that covers the essentials and top it up as needed along the way.

4. Download these helpful apps. 

Travel apps can be invaluable for making your pilgrimage smoother and more enjoyable, from booking accommodations to navigating route paths. Whether you’re walking or cycling, having the right apps on hand can help you make sense of your surroundings and stay prepared.

Here are some of the best pilgrimage trail apps

Buen Camino de Santiago: This app offers a comprehensive library of maps, route profiles and more. It even provides real-time alerts on road closures, helping you plan ahead, secure accommodations and adjust your route as needed.

Camino Ninja: A free app packed with essential information, including distances, elevations, offline maps and accommodation options. It’s a handy resource to have, especially in areas with limited connectivity.

Camino Assist Pilgrim Santiago: This app features offline maps, a built-in compass, a phrasebook and a diary tool to track your journey. It’s perfect for those who want to document their experience while staying well-equipped on the road.

A Modern Way of Experiencing Spain’s Pilgrimage Trails

Spain’s Camino de Santiago offers a sanctuary for those seeking peace, reflection and spiritual growth. While the essence of the pilgrimage lies in stepping away from the fast pace of modern life, embracing technology can actually enhance your journey.

Keeping screens at a respectful distance doesn’t mean disregarding their benefits. Tools like eSIMs can ensure you stay connected for important updates and group communication, while travel apps unlock the rich cultural history of the regions you traverse, deepening your experience along the way. 

With the right balance, you can embrace both tradition and modern convenience as you walk these timeless paths. –Jolene Chambers

Vanderbilt Mansion: Gilded Age Opulence in the Hudson Valley

Explore the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site in Hyde Park, New York, with its original furnishings and garden. 

Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site

We call it the Hamptons for Brooklynites. The Hudson Valley is known for its charming small towns, cultural attractions, natural beauty — and close proximity to New York City. And since Wally and I were spending a long weekend with my parents in this part of New York state, I was eager to find something we’d all enjoy doing together. 

Wally, Duke and Poppa hang out before their tour.

No trip with my parents is complete without touring at least one historic landmark, and the region has plenty to choose from. Unfortunately, Olana, the Persian-inspired house museum of Frederic Edwin Church — a major figure of the Hudson River School of American landscape painters — was temporarily closed in preparation for an upcoming exhibit, so we opted for the Gilded Age “country house” of another Frederick.

This particular Frederick was the third son of William Henry Vanderbilt and grandson of the self-made multimillionaire, Cornelius “Commodore” Vanderbilt — the man who inspired the term “robber baron” and amassed the family fortune in shipping and railroads. To me, the Vanderbilt family is synonymous with extraordinary wealth, designer jeans and one silver fox, aka Anderson Cooper. So as a “Duke” myself, it seemed only fitting to visit one of Dutchess County’s most notable estates. 

Mema and Poppa are always up for a good time.

The turn-of-the-century mansion turned national historic site is perched on a natural bluff high above the Hudson River on the outskirts of Hyde Park, New York, about six miles north of Poughkeepsie on Route 9, and is a short distance from Springwood, the birthplace and lifelong home of Franklin Delano Roosevelt, the 32nd president of the United States.

The Pavilion, now used as the Visitor’s Center, was constructed in just 60 days. 

The Pavilion

Our first stop after arriving was the Visitor’s Center, a Georgian Colonial structure with a captain’s walk and porticos supported by Doric columns. These columns are actually brick pillars concealed by a material called staff, a mixture of plaster, jute fibers and horsehair. Often described as “counterfeit marble,” staff is cast into molds to resemble carved marble. The same material used to cover the buildings of the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago, Illinois. 

Originally referred to as the Pavilion, it was built in just 66 working days after the Vanderbilts acquired the property in May 1895. It replaced the Langdon Carriage House and served as the living quarters for Frederick and Louise while they oversaw the construction of the main house.

To prevent scandals, single men visiting the property would stay in the Pavilion, while unattached women slept in the nearby mansion.

Inside, Wally and I purchased tickets for the guided tour which were $15 per person, though my dad used his U.S. National Parks annual pass for military veterans to get my mom and him in for free.

The interior is styled like a gentlemen’s sporting lodge, complete with a large central fireplace and walls displaying a collection of mounted trophy heads of animals. It should be noted that Frederick himself didn’t hunt and strictly prohibited hunting on the property. 

The building later served as the guesthouse for male visitors — you couldn’t have single men and single women sleeping under the same roof, after all. 

Before our tour of the historic home, we followed a path leading to the formal gardens. As we crossed the expansive, meticulously manicured lawn in front of the mansion, I noticed my father admiring its orderly nature and could imagine him daydreaming of riding his latest John Deere lawn mower over it.

The marble fountain, depicting a young boy stepping on the head of an unusual-looking dolphin, has been restored.

The Formal Gardens

The gardens and grounds reflect the passion for horticulture shared by the estate’s previous owners. In the early 1800s, Samuel Bard established gardens and a greenhouse filled with native and exotic plants. He imported trees, flowers, herbs and shrubs from across Europe and Asia. The lone ginkgo tree standing in the middle of the south lawn is believed to have been planted by him in 1799. 

Dramatic pergolas form a grand entrance to the gardens.

Bard’s approach was influenced by the principles of picturesque landscape design, which he studied during his time in Edinburgh, Scotland. Incidentally, as a doctor, he also performed a life-saving operation on the newly inaugurated President George Washington in 1789, removing a large and painful tumor from his left thigh.

Each year, volunteers plant around 6,000 annuals in the formal gardens.

After Bard’s death, his son sold the estate to his father’s former business partner, David Hosack, also an accomplished physician and avid horticulturist. Hosack was a professor at the College of Physicians and Surgeons at Columbia University and in 1804 tended to Alexander Hamilton’s fatal injuries after his duel with Aaron Burr. 

This statue of an odalisque, or harem member, was sculpted by Antonio Galli in the mid-19th century. The pool was being repaired when we visited.

Driven by his passion for botany, Hosack established the first formal gardens on the estate and built greenhouses to shelter his exotic plants. He enlisted the expertise of Belgian-born landscape architect André Parmentier who gave the grounds a park-like atmosphere. 

Roads, bridges and lawns were carefully designed to enhance the natural landscape, while large areas were deliberately left in their wild state. Today, much of Parmentier’s original design remains unchanged. 

This saucy statue was known as “Barefoot Kate.”

The four of us entered the formal Italian-style gardens at the northwest corner, where Wally and I left my mom and dad to linger at a table outside the tool house with miscellaneous items available for anyone to take, using an honor system. 

“Barefoot Kate” isn’t really barefoot!

We continued up the gravel path and through the upper terrace gardens, where volunteers from the Frederick William Vanderbilt Garden Association were tending to the annual plants. This nonprofit works closely with the National Park Service to restore the gardens to their 1930s appearance. 

Ahead of us stretched a walkway lined with cherry trees, leading to a brick loggia and reflecting pool. A white marble statue of an odalisque known as “Barefoot Kate,” stood in the central niche, appearing to delicately test the waters with her toe. On closer inspection, you can see she’s actually wearing sandals and isn’t even barefoot. The reflecting pool was closed for maintenance during our visit, but the vignette was still striking. The path continued down a flight of steps to the rose garden with a pavilion overlooking Crum Elbow Creek.

For those who might be curious, crimson roses were Frederick’s favorite and were delivered to his bedroom each morning. Louise preferred yellow roses, which she insisted be placed on the Louis XVI-style table in the drawing room.

Louise particularly loved roses and had part of the garden devoted to them.

Wally is always willing to visit a garden.

Duke sittin’ pretty

Flowering trees with gorgeous shades of pink can be seen in the hills beyond the gardens.

After meandering through the sprawling gardens, we met up with my parents and returned to the Pavilion, where we joined the group of visitors who were waiting in anticipation of meeting our guide. 

The Vanderbilt Mansion is a prime example of Beaux Arts architecture, a style characterized by its grandeur and classical elements, popular in the Gilded Age.

The Country House 

Mark Twain first coined the term “The Gilded Age” when he published his satirical novel The Gilded Age: A Tale of Today in 1873. The term refers to the economic boom between the end of the Civil War in 1865 and the turn of the 20th century. 

The Vanderbilts were certainly emblematic of the era’s excess and grandeur. Frederick and Louise had an impressive real estate portfolio, with residences in Manhattan; Bar Harbor, Maine; Newport, Rhode Island; and a Japanese-inspired retreat on Upper St. Regis Lake in the Adirondacks. Yet, they sought a country retreat in the bucolic Hudson Valley. 

Frederick was a director of 22 railroads, including the New York Central Railroad, the Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad, and the Chicago and North Western Railroad. Despite their substantial wealth, the old-money families of the area, such as the Livingstons and the Beekmans, whose wealth went back at least three generations, labeled Vanderbilts “nouveau riche” and found them to be distasteful and crass.

Most recently, the property they desired belonged to Dorothea Langdon, whose father, John Jacob Astor, purchased it for her and her husband, Walter, in 1840.

A gilt bronze Louis XVI-style revolving dial clock, featuring the Three Graces holding a globe, by Henry Dasson, sits atop a table with a rare deep purple porphyry stone top.

Frederick and Louise bought the property for under $25,000 and hired the prestigious architectural firm of McKim, Mead & White to replace the existing home with a new, larger version. 

Frederick and Louise Vanderbilt. Are you surprised she was the outgoing one?

Charles McKim studied at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, and the home’s design reflects many elements of classic Beaux Arts style. Completed in 1898, its exterior is sheathed in Indiana limestone over a steel and concrete structure. Unlike its predecessor, the new house rose a full three stories. 

Meanwhile, New York decorator Ogden Codman and architect Stanford White were tasked with furnishing the 54-room home with $2.25 million worth of museum-quality paintings and tapestries, and incorporating a range of European antiques and finely crafted period reproductions. 

Despite its grandeur, the impressive 45,000-square-foot structure was considered “modest” in comparison to the opulent homes of Frederick’s siblings, such as George Washington Vanderbilt who erected the ostentatious Biltmore in Asheville, North Carolina. 

Completed in 1899, the Hyde Park house featured all the latest innovations: electricity powered by a hydroelectric generator in Crum Elbow Creek — which according to our guide was a full decade before other homes in the town would experience this marvel themselves — central heating from coal-fired furnaces, and indoor plumbing. In 1936 the Otis Elevator Company electrified the existing hand-powered elevator. 

The cost to complete the Vanderbilt Mansion was $660,000, which, adjusted for inflation, is roughly equivalent to $48.65 million today, excluding the furnishings.

A tapestry hanging in the Vanderbilt Mansion, Hector Bids Farewell, from the 17th century, shows the Greek hero of the Trojan War in Renaissance style dress.

While Frederick was described as quiet and introverted, Louise (who went by Lulu) was social and philanthropic and loved to entertain. She frequently hosted lavish parties, galas and balls at the Hyde Park estate, including an annual strawberry and ice cream festival for the community. She would also ride through town on a horse-drawn carriage during Christmastime and deliver presents to the children of Hyde Park. 

And while they entertained friends now and then, for the most part, it was just the two of them — along with loads of servants — about 60 to be exact. Of these, 17 were employed in the house, two in the Pavilion, and 44 on the grounds and farm. Thirteen men cared for the gardens and lawns alone. When guests stayed in the Pavilion, additional cooks and maids were hired from the town of Hyde Park.

The front doors open to the reception hall, where you could sit on the sofa and admire the topless busts that support the mantel over the fireplace.

The Reception Hall

The main floor of the Vanderbilt Mansion was primarily used for entertaining. The first room we entered was the spacious reception hall, designed in an elliptical shape, lending it a sophisticated feel, similar to the Federal-style Oval Office in the White House. The octagonal opening in the ceiling enhances this geometric design, allowing natural light to flood the hall from the skylight above.

The great hall is furnished with a pair of matching tufted sofas, Italian throne chairs, and a mantelpiece bought from Raoul Heilbronner, a German-born art and antiques dealer in Paris. A 16th century tapestry bearing the Medici family crest hangs above it, suggesting that the family’s lineage dated back to the Italian Renaissance. 

When Wally expressed surprise that there were a pair of topless caryatids supporting the mantle, our guide replied that the Victorians didn’t mind nudity — as long as it was done in a classical style.

Guests would meet in the home’s foyer before sitting down for a seven-course dinner in the dining room, a different wine being served with each course. The men and women would then split off to two separate parlors — women to talk about fashion and the like; men to discuss business. They would then convene in the drawing room before heading off to bed at midnight.

A collection of beer steins and a mounted elk's head adorn Frederick Vanderbilt’s cozy den. 

The Study and Den

The first room to the left of the reception hall is Frederick’s study,  mahogany-paneled with vaulted ceilings, a built-in desk and intricately carved wood panels. These architectural elements feature whimsical scenes of animals and cherubs, and were salvaged from a European château before being shipped to Hyde Park. 

Unusual for the time, the study has its own bathroom — so Frederick could go about his business without the staff knowing. 

The attached den has a bookcase holding about 400 volumes, mostly fiction and travel, along with Frederick’s textbooks from Yale. 

Louise disliked the ceiling mural in her sitting room of Aurora and Tithonus by American painter Edward Emerson Simmons, so much she had it painted over. It was restored in 1962.

The Gold Room

Louise’s reception room was a feminine counterpoint to Frederick’s masculine study and was used for serving tea, sherry before dinner and gossip conversation. The coved and gilded plaster ceiling includes a mural by American impressionist painter Edward Simmons titled Aurora and Tithonus and was inspired by the mythological paintings of René-Antoine Houasse at Versailles. Apparently Louise hated it and had it painted over in 1906. Thankfully it was uncovered and restored by the National Park Service in 1962. 

You can imagine the games of whist that were once played at these small tables in the drawing room.

The Drawing Room

To the left is the south foyer, which leads to the drawing room. This room features a pair of marble fireplaces and walnut paneling, and is furnished with a blend of antique Renaissance pieces and Louis XV-style seating. 

The drawing room, designed in the French Renaissance style, was often the center of social activity, where guests would gather for conversation, music and games.

After dinner, the ladies would retreat to the drawing room, where a demitasse of coffee and liqueurs were served. Meanwhile, the men lingered in the dining room for another 30 minutes before joining the women for an evening of cards — often bridge — charades or dancing.

The dining room could seat 18 elite guests.

The Dining Room

The dining room mirrors the scale and size of the drawing room. It includes a table that can be extended to seat 18 guests. Beneath it lies an Isfahan Persian rug, one of the largest in the world, measuring 20 by 40 feet and believed to be over 300 years old. 

Like other rooms in the home, the furniture is a reproduction of the Louis XV period. 

The central mural in the dining room, painted by Edward Emerson Simmons

The coffered and gilded ceiling was salvaged from an Italian palazzo, and installed to fit the space. The central mural was painted by Edward Emerson Simmons, a prominent member of Stanford White’s circle of artist friends. 

The blue and white Ming Dynasty vessel at the base of the grand staircase is estimated to be over 500 years old. When the Vanderbilts lived here, it was used as a planter for a towering 20-foot palm tree.

The Grand Staircase

Roll out the red carpet: The grand staircase, with its sweeping wrought iron balustrade, has 10 steps leading up to a landing along the west wall, followed by another 10 steps to an east-facing landing, then 10 more steps heading west to a third landing, and finally nine steps east to reach the second floor.

The second floor is equally as impressive as the first. The elliptical central gallery is surrounded by a cast-stone balustrade and bedrooms, ranging from modest guest quarters to opulent his-and-hers rooms modeled after the Petit Trianon at Versailles.

This marble sculpture depicts the infant Hercules strangling one of the snakes sent by the goddess Hera to kill him in his cradle.

Niches hold marble sculptures of Eros and Psyche, along with Persephone, Greek goddess of spring and queen of the underworld.

Seven years later, the Vanderbilts enlisted New York architect Whitney Warren to redesign certain elements of the house. Warren removed the coved skylight (technically a laylight) atop the second story and replaced it with a flat frosted glass laylight. The wood balustrade around the opening on the second floor was removed to make way for a cast-stone balustrade and a deep plaster cove, embellished with lattice-work panels and oval medallions with female figures, was added to the ceiling of the second floor, beneath the new laylight.

Louise Vanderbilt’s bedroom and boudoir were designed after Marie Antoinette’s private rooms at Versailles.

One of the guest rooms at the Vanderbilt Mansion

Up on the third floor, of the 19 rooms, 11 belonged to female servants. Each morning floors were cleaned, silverware polished, porches swept, and 50 to 60 bouquets of fresh flowers were arranged throughout the home. The generosity of the Vanderbilts extended in many directions and was often expressed in donations of flowers to local churches and hospitals. 

Compare this simple setup for the servants with the lavish decadence upstairs.

The Servants’ Hall

In an affluent household like this, servants were expected to be as invisible as possible, working behind the scenes to keep everything running smoothly. The staff usually arrived a day before Frederick and Louise to prepare the house. They had their own set of stairs and living spaces and were the first to rise and the last to retire for the night.

For the final part of the tour, our guide led us to the less grand service staircase, where we followed him down to the servants’ quarters. This was a simple and functional space with long corridors running north and south. 

Directly beneath the dining room was the kitchen, where meals were prepared. Food was then sent up to the butler’s pantry on the first floor via a large dumbwaiter before being served in the dining room. 

The kitchen downstairs

The basement also housed the unfussy servants’ lounge, which served as both a dining and sitting room where the staff could spend their leisure time.

Accommodations on this floor were for the male servants and included single rooms for the three butlers, a room for visiting valets, and quarters for the day and night men. 

Additionally, the basement contained four storage rooms, two laundry rooms, an ironing room, a wine cellar and an ice room.

The laylight acts as a focal point of the Vanderbilt Mansion.

From Private Estate to Public Heritage: The Journey of the Vanderbilt Mansion

Everything in the house remained as it was when Frederick passed away on June 29, 1938, at the age of 82. Following his death, the first detailed archival records of the interiors were created. The P.J. Curry Company conducted a thorough inventory of the mansion’s contents, while Rodney McKay Morgan photographed many of the rooms for real estate purposes. The New York Times published photographs of the public rooms in 1940, and an album of snapshots, assembled by Fred and James Traudt that same year, is preserved in the home’s archives.

Since the couple had no children, the mansion was bequeathed to Frederick’s niece, Margaret Louise Van Alen. There was just one catch: She had no intention of living there and tried to sell the estate for $350,000, even reducing the price to $250,000. However, with World War II looming, and a country still recovering from the Great Depression, no one was really in the market for a mansion in Upstate New York.

Fortunately, President Roosevelt persuaded Van Alen to donate 211 acres, along with the mansion and its contents, to the National Park Service. The estate was preserved for the nation, renamed the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, and in 1940 opened to the public. According to the local Eagle News, 1,338 visitors toured the home within the first 10 days of its opening. 

Fireplaces were a sign of wealth during the Gilded Age — so they were included, even when there was a central heating system installed as well.

The Lowdown 

The Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site grounds are open to the public every day of the year, from sunrise to sunset. Tickets and visitor information are available in the Visitor Center, located in the building near the parking lot. 

Admission is $15 per person and children 15 and under are free. The tour is free if you have the National Parks annual pass. 

The hour-long tour was an enjoyable experience and gave us a glimpse into the lives of Frederick and Louise and their mansion. The visit takes you through the first and second floors, as well as the service basement. –Duke

At 45,000 square feet, the Vanderbilts’ holiday home featured 21 fireplaces, 14 bathrooms and 25 bedrooms.

Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site

119 Vanderbilt Park Road
Hyde Park, New York 12538

Seville Cathedral Legends: Ghost Stories, Curses and Hidden Treasure

Meet the spirit of Christopher Columbus, the Ghostly Guardian and La Susona, brave the curse of La Giralda and discover a secret stash of gold.

The Seville Cathedral, with its towering Gothic spires and labyrinthine chambers, can be a gloomy sanctuary where it’s easy to imagine hearing whispers and catching dark shapes out of the corner of your eye. Over the centuries, this majestic building has become a repository of folktales — some tinged with mystery, others with tragedy. As the sun sets and the long shadows stretch across the cobblestones, gather round to hear the spookiest legends about Seville Cathedral. 

“The curse lingers.

Now, anyone who betrays a vow within the cathedral’s grounds will be met with misfortune — anything from financial ruin to an untimely death. ”

The Ghostly Guardian of Seville Cathedral 

On stormy nights, when the wind wails through the narrow streets of Sevilla, locals speak in hushed tones of the Ghostly Guardian — a silent sentinel said to patrol Seville Cathedral’s hallowed halls. This figure, draped in a flowing, tattered cloak and clad in ancient armor, is believed to be the restless spirit of a medieval knight. Witnesses describe seeing him glide through the shadows, his armor clinking faintly as he moves from one darkened chapel to another, his gaze ever-watchful. Others have spied him kneeling in solemn prayer at the high altar, his ghostly form cast in a faint, silvery glow.

He was once a master builder, a man whose life’s work was the construction of the cathedral. Stricken down by illness before seeing his masterpiece completed, his spirit lingered. Not even death could sever his connection to the place he so loved. 

Visitors to the Seville Cathedral who stay too long after dark have claimed to hear strange sounds — the echo of footsteps when no one is near or the eerie clatter of unseen armor. The Ghostly Guardian continues his eternal watch, safeguarding the cathedral from threats both seen and unseen.

Hidden Treasure: The Secret of the Cathedral’s Gold

Beneath the cathedral’s towering arches and heavy stones lies a secret that has tantalized treasure hunters for centuries — a hidden cache of riches. As the story goes, during a time of great unrest in Sevilla, a powerful nobleman sought to hide his treasure in a place he believed would be safe. 

He approached the master builders of the cathedral, bribing them to construct a secret chamber, deep within its bowels, where his fortune in gold, silver and precious gems could be hidden away. The builders, either out of greed or under duress, agreed to this clandestine arrangement, creating a hidden vault so ingeniously concealed that no outsider would ever suspect its existence.

The nobleman, however, never returned to claim his treasure. He died in a distant battle, taking the secret of the chamber’s location with him to the grave. Since then, countless treasure seekers have scoured the cathedral’s chapels, floors and nooks, succumbing to fevered dreams of instant wealth. 

Some claim the treasure is hidden beneath the grand altar; others believe it lies behind one of the many intricately carved stone panels that adorn the cathedral walls. Yet, despite the tireless searches, the treasure trove remains elusive.

The Curse of La Giralda

Who would suspect that La Giralda, with its elegant silhouette rising above Sevilla’s skyline, is also the focal point of a dark and vengeful curse, a warning to those who dare betray love and break a promise?

Back in the 16th century, a young nobleman was set to marry a beautiful woman from a wealthy family. The wedding was to be a grand affair, the kind that would be spoken of for generations. But the bride’s joy turned to despair when, on the morning of the ceremony, her betrothed abandoned her at the altar.

Heartbroken and humiliated, she stood beneath the shadow of La Giralda, her wedding gown fluttering in the wind, tears staining her cheeks. In her anguish, she raised her hands to the heavens and cursed the man who had jilted her. As she uttered her final words, dark clouds rolled in and the sky roared with thunder. A bolt of lightning struck La Giralda, sending a single stone crashing down at the feet of the fleeing nobleman. He was able to escape the city — but he couldn’t escape the curse. 

His life unraveled — he lost his fortune, his friendships turned sour, and he died alone, tormented by the consequences of his broken promise.

The curse lingers. Now, anyone who betrays a vow within the cathedral’s grounds will be met with misfortune — anything from financial ruin to an untimely death. The story serves as a cautionary tale, a reminder that love, once pledged, must not be taken lightly.

The Legend of La Susona: A Tale of Love and Betrayal

Meet La Susona, a young woman whose beauty was matched only by the darkness of her fate. Susona Ben Susón was the daughter of a wealthy Jewish merchant in the late 15th century, a time when Sevilla was rife with tension, suspicion and the threat of religious persecution. Despite the danger, Susona fell deeply in love with a Christian nobleman, a relationship that was strictly forbidden.

One night, Susona overheard her father and his allies plotting a rebellion against the Christian authorities. To protect her lover, Susona revealed the plot, betraying her own family to save him. Her confession led to the swift arrest and execution of her father and many others, leaving her wracked with guilt. Shunned by her community and haunted by what she had done, Susona chose to live the rest of her life in isolation, dedicating herself to prayer and penance.

As death approached, Susona made one final, chilling request: that her skull be displayed at the entrance to her family home as a warning to others of the cost of betrayal. 

The Restless Ghost of Christopher Columbus

In the depths of Seville Cathedral’s hallowed halls, Christopher Columbus, the man who charted new worlds and altered the course of history, is said to haunt the very place where his bones now lie. 

By day, the cathedral bustles with visitors, but by night, when the crowds have gone, the air thickens with something unspoken. It’s then that some claim to see him — a ghostly figure drifting through the cold, silent nave, cloaked in a flowing coat, his face obscured by shadows.

Columbus appears near his grand tomb. Some who have ventured close to it at night have felt an icy chill or heard the faintest rustle, like the sweep of a cloak brushing against stone. Those who linger too long might catch a glimpse of a pale figure slipping into the darkness.

The ghost isn’t a vengeful spirit, nor does he lash out at those who dare approach. Instead, he wanders in sorrow and unrest, as if bound to the place by unfinished business or unquiet thoughts. His steps are slow, deliberate — an apparition of a man retracing paths he once walked in life, now doomed to tread them for eternity. 

Those who have encountered Columbus’ ghost speak of a sense of unease, as though they’re not just witnessing a spirit, but a regret that has taken form, a specter caught in an endless loop, reliving decisions that can never be undone — perhaps not too surprising for such a contentious figure.

Haunted Seville Cathedral 

These legends remind us that Sevilla is a city where the past is never truly buried. The stories may be shrouded in mystery and myth, but they endure, whispered through the ages, inviting all who listen to step into a world where history and the supernatural blur in the shadows of Seville Cathedral. 

It’s hard to shake the feeling that in this place of grandeur and mystery, some echoes never fade, and some spirits never rest. –Wally

13 Ways Genghis Khan and the Mongols Were Surprisingly Innovative

Spoiler alert: The Mongols weren’t just bloodthirsty barbarians. Here are some of their shockingly progressive practices, from gender equality to standardized currency. 

When you think of Genghis Khan, do you picture a ruthless conqueror who spent his days pillaging and plundering? Well, yes, that certainly was the case. But it turns out that Genghis, who lived from 1162-1227, was more of a forward-thinking innovator than your average medieval warlord. (By the way, most people mispronounce his name: It should be something more like Jen-gis or Ching-gis.)

One main reason why Genghis Khan has that reputation is the sheer size of the Mongol Empire at its height: “In 25 years, the Mongol army subjugated more lands and people than the Romans had conquered in 400 years. Genghis Khan, together with his sons and grandsons, conquered the most densely populated civilizations of the 13th century. Whether measured by the total number of people defeated, the sum of the countries annexed or by the total area occupied, Genghis Khan conquered more than twice as much as any other man in history,” writes Jack Weatherford in Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World, published in 2004. “At its zenith, the empire covered between 11 and 12 million contiguous square miles.”

Most people today live in countries conquered by the Mongols, whose empire “stretched from the snowy tundra of Siberia to the hot plains of India, from the rice paddies of Vietnam to the wheat fields of Hungary, and from Korea to the Balkans,” Weatherford continues. 

“One of the Mongol law code’s greatest merits? No kidnapping women.

This might seem like a no-brainer today, but back then, it was a revolutionary step toward protecting individual rights. ”

The Mongols’ ability to conquer vast territories stemmed from their mastery of warfare, including feigned retreats, mobile cavalry, skilled archers, psychological tactics, advanced siege weapons, extensive spy networks and a remarkable ability to adapt. 

But it wasn’t all battles and bloodshed. Here are 13 ways Ghenghis Khan and the Mongols were surprisingly progressive. 

1. Meritocracy

In the traditional feudal system, your family name determined whether you’d be polishing armor or wearing it. Genghis Khan had a different idea. He believed that talent and skill should be the keys to power, not a fancy lineage.

In action: Under Genghis, promotions were based on ability, not aristocracy. This meant that even a “nobody” could rise to be a somebody if they had the chops. Subotai, for example, was born into a low-class blacksmith family and rose to become one of Genghis Khan’s most trusted generals through his strategic brilliance, orchestrating coordinated multi-front attacks that helped the Mongols conquer vast territories across Europe and Asia.

2. Religious tolerance

In a time when most leaders were busy burning heretics and smashing idols, the Mongols created a religious melting pot. Genghis Khan didn’t just tolerate different religions — he embraced them.

In action: Imagine a royal court where Buddhist monks, Muslim scholars, Christian missionaries and Taoist sages all hang out and exchange ideas over yak butter tea. Genghis Khan was smart enough to realize that forcing people to adopt one religion would only lead to unrest. Instead, he let them worship as they pleased, which, surprise surprise, led to a more stable and prosperous empire. 

3. Legal reforms

Ever heard of the Yassa code? No, it’s not Kanye’s newest name change — it’s the Mongol legal system. Genghis Khan’s Yassa laid down the law for everyone, from the highest nobles to the humblest herders. The rule of law applied equally, and it was strictly enforced.

In action: One of the Yassa’s greatest merits? No kidnapping women. This might seem like a no-brainer today, but back then, it was a revolutionary step toward protecting individual rights. Other notable inclusions: care for the elderly and disabled, and the prohibition of bodily mutilation as punishment. And no one was exempt: Even Genghis himself had to play by the rules. Now that’s what we call equal opportunity justice.

4. Female empowerment 

While medieval Europe was busy debating whether women had souls, the Mongols were giving them actual power and responsibilities. Mongolian women weren’t just seen but heard, holding positions of influence both at home and on the battlefield.

In action: Women in Mongol society could own property, initiate divorce and even fight alongside men. Genghis Khan’s daughters played key roles in governance and diplomacy, running entire regions of the empire. And to think it took 700 more years before women could even vote in America. 

5. Cultural fusion

The Mongol Empire was the ultimate cultural blender, mixing traditions, languages and customs from every corner of its vast territory. This wasn’t just coexistence — it was a dynamic, thriving fusion that enriched everyone involved.

In action: In the bustling cities of the Mongol Empire, you could hear a dozen languages in the marketplace, see architectural styles from Persia to China, and taste foods from across the continent. Genghis Khan encouraged this blending of cultures, which led to a vibrant, cosmopolitan society. 

6. Standardized currency

Before the Mongols, doing business across different regions involved a confusing mess of currencies and a purse heavy with coins. Enter Genghis Khan, who introduced a standardized currency system that made trade as smooth as a Mongolian silk scarf. The Mongols embraced paper money long before it became cool.

In action: Imagine traveling from Beijing to Baghdad and using the same currency along the way. It’s like having one universal credit card in a world full of barter systems. This wasn’t just convenient; it was revolutionary. The streamlined economy boosted trade and brought prosperity across the empire. Suddenly, Marco Polo’s tales of Mongol riches make a lot more sense. 

7. Distribution of wealth

After every successful raid or campaign, instead of building a giant gold statue of himself (which, let’s be honest, he totally could have), Genghis Khan divided the spoils — gold, silver, livestock, you name it — among his soldiers and the greater Mongol community via widows and orphans. This wasn’t just generosity; it was strategic brilliance. By ensuring that his troops and their families shared in the riches, Genghis Khan cultivated a fiercely loyal army and a population that was as invested in the empire’s success as he was. Talk about a profit-sharing plan!

In action: Take, for example, the aftermath of the Khwarezmian Empire’s collapse in 1221. After turning those Persian cities into a Mongol pillaging spree, Genghis didn’t keep the loot for himself. Instead, he divided it up among his troops and even sent a nice chunk back home to the families in Mongolia. This approach pleased his soldiers — turning them into recruitment posters on horseback. Who wouldn’t want to join an army where the bonus plan included a share of the spoils? It’s no wonder the Mongol Empire expanded so fast.

8. Tax reforms

Taxes might be as old as civilization itself, but the Mongols had a surprisingly modern take on them. Instead of bleeding their subjects dry, they implemented a fair and efficient tax system that encouraged growth and investment. Genghis Khan knew that happy traders meant a thriving economy. 

In action: Under the Mongols, taxes were based on wealth generated, not arbitrary demands. They even exempted religious leaders and certain professions — including doctors, priests and teachers — from taxes altogether. Think of it as a medieval version of tax breaks for small businesses. This approach not only fueled economic expansion but also kept the populace relatively content. 

9. Infrastructure development

The Mongols weren’t just tearing down walls — they were building up infrastructure. They constructed an extensive network of roads and bridges that connected the far reaches of their empire. These weren’t just any roads; they were superhighways of the medieval world, facilitating trade, communication and even mail delivery.

In action: The yam system, a kind of Mongol Pony Express, allowed messages to travel across the empire at lightning speed (well, for the 13th century). Waystations with fresh horses and supplies were set up along these routes, ensuring that couriers, traders, diplomats and soldiers could move quickly and efficiently. 

10. Promotion of trade

Before the age of globalization, there were the Mongols, creating an environment where trade could flourish, connecting East and West like never before.

In action: A world where goods, ideas and technologies flowed freely between continents: The Mongols made this possible by ensuring the safety of trade routes and establishing a network of waystations and caravanserais (inns for travelers). Traders could travel from China to Europe with relative ease, bringing silk, spices, and innovations like gunpowder and printing techniques. It was the medieval equivalent of Amazon Prime, but with more camels.

11. Knowledge transfer

The Mongols brought together the best minds from all over their vast empire. They didn’t just conquer; they collected knowledge, and boy, did they know how to network.

In action: When the Mongols captured scientists, engineers and scholars from different regions, they didn’t toss them in dungeons or hold them hostage. Nope, they put them to work sharing their expertise. Persian mathematicians, Chinese engineers and Arab astronomers all found themselves part of a massive, multicultural think tank. The result? A cross-pollination of ideas that accelerated advancements in science, medicine and technology. 

12. Agricultural techniques

While the rest of the world was figuring out crop rotation, the Mongols were busy revolutionizing agriculture. They introduced innovative farming methods and new crops that boosted food security and productivity across their empire.

In action: The Mongols were early adopters of techniques like irrigation and soil management. They also spread crops like sorghum and millet to new regions, ensuring diverse and resilient food supplies.

13. Military innovations

Okay, so maybe the Mongols did have a knack for warfare, but it wasn’t just brute force — they were tactical geniuses. Mongol military innovations didn’t just win battles; they changed the way wars were fought.

In action: The Mongol army’s use of composite bows, superior horsemanship and advanced siege tactics set new standards in military strategy. They also perfected the art of psychological warfare, using fear and surprise to their advantage. Their adaptability and innovation made them virtually unstoppable. 

The Mongolian Stamp on the Modern World

As the dust settled on the vast empire Genghis Khan and his descendants carved out, the world had irrevocably changed. The Mongols were more than conquerors — they were connectors, innovators, and, in a paradoxical way, civilizers. 

It’s time to shed light on the accomplishments of the Mongols, especially given how much we’ve misunderstood or even demonized them. For centuries, the term “Mongoloid” was cruelly applied to children with Down syndrome, falsely attributing to them the characteristics of an entirely different race — with the assumption that one of the baby’s ancestors must have been raped by a Mongol warrior.

The Mongols’ unyielding pursuit of dominance brought disparate cultures into dialogue, facilitated trade on an unprecedented scale, and spread ideas that would ignite revolutions in governance, warfare and even cuisine. From the Silk Road’s bustling caravans to the structured postal systems and the rise of paper money, the Mongols left a legacy far richer than their warrior reputation suggests. 

“Whether in their policy of religious tolerance, devising a universal alphabet, maintaining relay stations, playing games, or printing almanacs, money or astronomy charts, the rulers of the Mongol empire displayed a persistent universalism,” Weatherford writes. “Because they had no system of their own to impose upon their subjects, they were willing to adopt and combine systems from everywhere. Without deep cultural preferences in these areas, the Mongols implemented pragmatic rather than ideological solutions. They searched for what worked best; and when they found it, they spread it to other countries. They did not have to worry whether their astronomy agreed with the precepts of the Bible, that their standards of writing followed the classical principals taught by the mandarins of China, or that Muslim imams disapproved of their printing and painting. The Mongols had the power, at least temporarily, to impose new international systems of technology, agriculture and knowledge that superseded the predilections or prejudices of any single civilization; and in so doing, they broke the monopoly on thought exercised by local elites.”

“In conquering their empire, not only had the Mongols revolutionized warfare, they also created the nucleus of a universal culture and world system,” he continues. “This new global culture continued to grow long after the demise of the Mongol Empire, and through continued development over the coming centuries, it became the foundation for the modern world system with the original Mongol emphases on free commerce, open communication, shared knowledge, secular politics, religious coexistence, international law and diplomatic immunity.”

In a world that often frames history through the lens of East versus West, the Mongols remind us that our modern world isn’t a tale of isolated civilizations but a mosaic of influences, shaped by both conflict and collaboration. The very practices and beliefs we hold dear today — from the concept of religious tolerance to the mechanics of global commerce — owe a debt to a nomadic people whose empire once stretched from the steppes of Mongolia to the heart of Europe. 

In the Mongols, we find the origins of a truly interconnected world, one that continues to evolve, much like the riders who once galloped across the plains, forever altering the course of history. –Wally

---

ALSO READ

3 Times Alexander the Great Wasn’t So Great