How to Celebrate Samhain: Rituals, Traditions and the Magic of Halloween, the Witches’ New Year

This Wiccan holiday marks the thinning of the veil, when divination, honoring the dead and embracing the darkness come together.

The air is cool, almost biting, as you walk through a darkened forest. The leaves, once ablaze in fiery autumn colors, have now turned brown and brittle, carpeting the forest floor with a soft, crackling layer. The moon, full and heavy in the sky, bathes the landscape in a silver glow, casting long, eerie shadows among the trees. Somewhere in the distance, you hear the low hoot of an owl and the rustling of creatures unseen.

It’s spooky Samhain — the Wiccan festival that follows Mabon, marking the end of the harvest season and the beginning of winter. It’s a time when the veil between the living and the dead is at its thinnest, a liminal period when spirits walk among us and the mysteries of the afterlife feel closer than ever. For Wiccans, Samhain is the witches’ New Year, a night to honor ancestors, reflect on the cycle of life and death, and embrace the darkness that comes with the closing of the year.

Samhain (pronounced Sow-en) isn’t just a time of endings, but also of new beginnings — where the seeds of the future are planted in the fertile darkness. As the wheel of the year turns, Samhain invites you to look inward, to confront the shadows within and without, and to prepare for the quiet, introspective months ahead.

So whether you’re lighting candles to guide the spirits home, carving pumpkins to ward off malevolent forces, or simply sitting by a fire with a cup of mulled cider, this guide will walk you through the history, the rituals and the ways you can celebrate Samhain in a way that’s meaningful, magical and deeply connected to the turning of the seasons.

Samhain has profoundly influenced the history of Halloween. Many of the customs we associate with Halloween trace their origins back to the ancient rites of the Celtic holiday.

The Myth of Samhain

Long before Samhain became a part of Wiccan tradition, it was celebrated by the ancient Celts as the festival of the dead. According to legend, it was on Samhain night that the great hero, Cú Chulainn, faced his final battle. Wounded and weakened, he tied himself to a standing stone so he could die on his feet, sword in hand, defying death itself.

As Cú Chulainn’s life ebbed away, the Morrígan, the great Celtic goddess of war and fate, appeared before him in the form of a crow, her dark wings fluttering as she perched on his shoulder. It was said that the Morrígan would come to those who were destined to die, and her presence signaled the hero’s inevitable end. But even as his strength failed him, Cú Chulainn refused to fall, his spirit unbroken even in death.

Samhain, in this way, became a time to honor the dead and to remember the heroes who had passed on, their spirits crossing the thin veil to join the ancestors. 

It was also a night of divination, where the future could be glimpsed through the mists of the otherworld, and the Morrígan herself might appear to those brave enough to seek her out.

As the Celts gathered around their fires, they told stories of the old gods and heroes, lighting candles and making offerings to ensure that the spirits of their ancestors would find their way home. The fires burned bright through the night, keeping the darkness at bay and offering protection from the malevolent spirits that roamed the land.

Symbols and Correspondences of Samhain  

Samhain is rich with symbols that reflect the themes of death, rebirth and the thinning of the veil between worlds. From the glowing jack-o'-lantern to the sacred bonfire, these symbols are more than just decorations — they carry deep meaning, connecting us to the cycles of life, death and renewal.

Jack-o'-Lanterns: Guiding Spirits and Warding Off Evil  

The tradition of carving jack-o'-lanterns dates back to ancient Celtic practices of creating turnip lanterns to guide the spirits of the dead on Samhain night. 

The flickering light inside was meant to represent the souls of the departed, while the carved faces served to ward off malevolent spirits that might wander too close. 

As the custom crossed the Atlantic, pumpkins replaced turnips, and the jack-o’-lantern became a quintessential symbol of Halloween.

In your Samhain celebrations, consider carving a pumpkin with symbols that hold personal significance. Place it on your doorstep or windowsill as a beacon for the spirits of loved ones and as a protective charm against darker forces.

The Bonfire: A Beacon of Protection and Renewal  

Bonfires have long been a part of Samhain celebrations, serving as a powerful symbol of protection and purification. In ancient times, people would gather around these fires, tossing in offerings of food, herbs and other items to ensure a bountiful year to come. The bonfire’s light was believed to ward off evil spirits and guide the souls of the departed back to the otherworld.

If you’re able, gather around a fire on Samhain night — whether it’s a roaring outdoor bonfire or a simple candle lit indoors. Use this time to meditate on the cycles of life and death, and to release any fears or anxieties into the flames, allowing the fire’s transformative power to cleanse and renew your spirit.

Apples: The Fruit of the Otherworld

In Celtic mythology, apples were considered sacred, often associated with the otherworld and the land of the dead. It was believed that the fruit could grant access to the mysteries of the afterlife, and on Samhain, apples were used in divination rites to glimpse into the future.

To incorporate apples into your Samhain rituals, consider performing a simple divination by slicing an apple crosswise to reveal the hidden star within. Eat the apple mindfully, asking for insight or guidance, and let the seeds be a reminder of the potential for new beginnings even in the darkest times.

SkullS and Bones: Symbols of Mortality  

Skulls and bones are powerful symbols of Samhain, representing mortality and the thin line between the living and the dead. They remind us of the impermanence of life and the inevitability of death, urging us to honor those who have passed and to reflect on our own journeys.

Decorate your altar with small skulls or bones (real or symbolic) to connect with the energies of the season. These symbols can serve as a focal point for meditation, helping you to confront and accept the natural cycles of life and death.

A Samhain Ritual: Honoring the Dead and Welcoming the New Year

Samhain is a time for deep reflection, honoring those who have passed, and preparing for the new beginnings that lie ahead. This simple ritual is designed to help you connect with the energies of the season and the spirits of your ancestors.

What you’ll need

• A black candle (for protection and the dark half of the year)

• A white candle (for purification and the light to come)

• A photo or memento of a loved one who has passed

• A small bowl of water (symbolizing the veil between worlds)

• An offering (such as bread, wine or herbs)

• A journal and pen for reflection

1. Set the space.  

Begin by finding a quiet place where you won’t be disturbed. Cast a ritual circle if you want. 

Arrange your candles, photo or memento, and offering on a small table or altar. Light the black candle, focusing on the protection and guidance it brings as the dark half of the year begins. As you light the candle, say:  

“I light this flame to guide me through the darkness. May it protect me and illuminate the path ahead.”

2. Honor your ancestors. 

Hold the photo or memento of your loved one in your hands. Close your eyes and take a few deep breaths, visualizing the face or presence of this person. Speak to them as though they are with you, expressing gratitude for their influence in your life and asking for their guidance in the coming year. Place the photo or memento next to the black candle.

3. Reflect on the year. 

Take a moment to think about the past year — the lessons learned, the challenges faced and the growth achieved. Write down your reflections in your journal, allowing your thoughts to flow freely. This is also a time to acknowledge what you are ready to release as the year ends.

4. Light the white candle.  

Light the white candle, symbolizing the new light that will eventually return. As you do, say:  

“As the wheel turns, I welcome the light that will come after the darkness. I honor the past, embrace the present and look forward to the future.”

5. Make an offering. 

Pour a small amount of water into the bowl, symbolizing the thinning veil between the worlds. Take your offering and place it in front of the candles, saying:  

“I give thanks for the blessings of the past year and offer this gift in gratitude. May it nourish the spirits of those who have gone before and guide me through the year to come.”

6. Close the ritual.  

Spend a few moments in quiet reflection, feeling the connection between the past, present and future. When you’re ready, blow out the candles, starting with the black one and then the white. Thank the spirits and energies that have been present during your ritual. 

You may wish to leave the bowl of water and the offering on your altar overnight or dispose of them outside, returning them to the earth.

Other Ritual Activities for Samhain

Ancestral Altar 

Take a cue from the Day of the Dead: One of the most meaningful ways to celebrate Samhain is by creating an altar dedicated to your ancestors. This sacred space can be adorned with photos, mementos, candles, and offerings of food and drink. Light a candle for each ancestor you wish to honor, and spend time in quiet reflection, speaking to them as though they are present.

As you sit before the altar, say:

“On this night, as the veil grows thin, I honor the spirits of those who have come before me. I give thanks for their wisdom, their love, and their guidance. May they find peace and may their light continue to guide me.”

Silent Supper

A silent supper, or dumb supper, is a traditional Samhain ritual where a meal is prepared and eaten in complete silence to honor the dead. The table is set with an extra place for the spirits of loved ones who have passed, inviting them to join in the feast. The silence is maintained to show respect and to create a space for communication with the otherworld.

Prepare a meal with seasonal ingredients, such as root vegetables, apples and hearty grains. As you eat, reflect on the lives of those who have gone before you, and listen for any messages or insights that may come to you in the stillness.

Scrying and Divination  

Samhain is an ideal time for scrying, a form of divination that involves gazing into a reflective surface to receive visions or insights. Traditionally, a black mirror, a bowl of water, tarot cards or a crystal ball might be used for this purpose.

Apple Peel Divination: A Simple Samhain Rite

Apples, symbols of magic and the otherworld, lend themselves perfectly to a straightforward divination practice during Samhain. 

To begin, find a quiet space and hold a fresh apple while focusing on a question or intention. 

Slowly peel the apple in one continuous strip, keeping your mind centered on the guidance you seek. 

Once peeled, toss the strip over your left shoulder and observe the shape it forms on the ground. The peel may reveal a letter, symbol or shape that offers insight into your question. 

Finally, record your impressions and consider how this message might guide you in the coming months. The apple peel divination is a traditional, easy and meaningful way to connect with the energies of Samhain.

Feasting: A Harvest of Flavor

As the final harvest festival, Samhain is the perfect time to celebrate with a feast that honors the season’s bounty and the transition into the darker half of the year. Traditional Samhain foods are rich and hearty, and often infused with the warmth of spices to chase away the chill of autumn nights.

Root vegetables like potatoes, carrots and turnips take center stage, often roasted or simmered into comforting stews. Apples, ever the symbol of wisdom and connection to the otherworld, are used in everything from pies to ciders, adding a sweet, crisp note to the table. You might also enjoy hearty breads, pumpkin dishes, and anything spiced with cinnamon, cloves or nutmeg — all of which evoke the essence of the season.

For a truly magical touch, consider baking a special Samhain loaf or cake, embedding a small charm or token inside. As you share the cake with loved ones, the person who finds the charm may receive a special blessing or message for the year ahead. This tradition not only adds an element of fun to your feast but also connects you to the ancient customs of divination and celebration that have long been part of Samhain.

Whether you’re cooking for a crowd or enjoying a quiet meal alone, let your Samhain feast be a time of reflection and gratitude, a celebration of both the harvest and the mysteries of the season.

Samhain Crafts and Activities

Samhain offers a wealth of creative opportunities to engage with the season’s energy and themes. Here are some activities that you can incorporate into your celebrations:

Creating Spirit Dolls

Crafting spirit dolls is a traditional Samhain activity that allows you to create a tangible representation of your ancestors or spirit guides. Using natural materials like twigs, corn husks or fabric scraps, fashion a small doll that symbolizes a loved one or spiritual protector. 

As you create your doll, focus on the qualities or energies you wish to honor or invite into your life. These spirit dolls can be placed on your altar or kept in a special place in your home as a way to stay connected to those who have passed or to receive guidance from the spirit world.

Bone Rattles

A bone rattle is a powerful tool for connecting with the spirit realm, and making your own can be a meaningful Samhain project. Collect small bones from ethically sourced materials (or substitute with sticks or shells) and attach them to a sturdy handle, such as a piece of driftwood or a carved stick. As you shake the rattle, the sound is said to call forth spirits and ancestors, making it a potent addition to your Samhain rituals or meditations.

Ancestor Story Stones

Gather a set of small, smooth stones and paint or draw symbols on them that represent stories, traits or memories of your ancestors. These could include simple images like a tree, a house or an object they were known for. 

Use these stones in a storytelling ritual, where you draw a stone at random and share or reflect on the story or memory it represents. This activity not only honors your ancestors but also keeps their stories alive and connected to your present life.

Herbal Sachets for Protection

As the veil between worlds thins, creating herbal sachets for protection is a practical and magical way to safeguard your space. Combine herbs traditionally associated with protection, such as rosemary, sage and juniper, and place them in small fabric pouches. You can hang these sachets by your door, carry them with you, or place them under your pillow to ward off negative energies and invite peace into your home.

These activities are not only fun and creative but also deeply connected to the themes of Samhain, offering ways to honor the past, protect the present and prepare for the future.

Samhain: Embracing the Shadows and Honoring the Past

As the wheel of the year turns, Samhain invites us to pause, reflect and connect with the mysteries of life, death and the unseen. It’s a time to honor our ancestors, embrace the darker aspects of our existence, and prepare for the introspective journey through the winter months.

Whether through ritual, feasting or creative activities, Samhain offers a space to engage with the deeper cycles of life and to find meaning in both the endings and the beginnings that this season represents. As you light your candles, prepare your offerings and set your intentions, remember that Samhain isn’t just about looking back at what has passed, but also about planting the seeds of what is yet to come.

May your Samhain be filled with the magic of the season, the warmth of remembered love and the quiet anticipation of the new year ahead. –Wally

Symbolism in Italian Floristry: Flowers as Cultural and Religious Icons

Talk about flower power! From passionate roses to sacred lilies, Italian flowers speak a language all their own. Learn the meanings behind these blooms and how they’ve shaped Italian culture and faith for centuries.

Floristry in Italy is nothing short of an art form. Each bloom embodies deep cultural significance and religious symbolism. As a country rich in history and tradition, Italy uses flowers to communicate emotions, celebrate life events and honor spiritual customs. 

If you’re thinking, “I want to find an Italy florist near me,” wait till you learn more about the symbolism of different blooms and their role as cultural and religious icons.

“Flowers in Italy convey emotions beyond what words can express, preserving the depth of human feeling through their beauty and meaning.”

The Meanings of Flowers in Italian Culture

In Italy, the use of flowers is pervasive, from weddings and other festive occasions to mourning rituals. The country has a rich history of floriculture, with each flower holding distinct meanings. Italian flora is often associated with various legends, poems and folklore, where the narratives shape public perception of these flowers.

The rose: Love and passion

The rose, one of the world’s most celebrated flowers, holds a special place in Italian culture. Red roses are the ultimate symbol of passion and desire, often chosen to express heartfelt love. White roses, on the other hand, represent purity and new beginnings, making them a favorite at weddings, while yellow roses can symbolize friendship and joy (though they’re sometimes associated with jealousy). The rose’s rich symbolism reflects the complexities of relationships, capturing love in all its forms.

The lily: Purity and devotion

In religious contexts, the lily is a powerful symbol of purity and devotion. Often linked to the Virgin Mary in Christian iconography, this delicate flower represents innocence, virtue and renewal. In mythology, the lily is also associated with chastity, said to have originated from a drop of milk that fell from the breast of Juno, the Roman goddess of love and marriage. Lilies are frequently used to decorate churches and religious festivals, elevating their sacred significance. 

The sunflower: Loyalty and adoration

The sunflower, with its bright yellow petals and seed-filled center, symbolizes loyalty and adoration. Italian florists often use sunflowers for celebratory occasions, expressing joy and warmth. Additionally, the flower is associated with the concept of followership, as its Italian name, girasole, literally “turning to the sun.” In Italy, sunflowers bloom from mid-June to early August in the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and the Marche, covering the Italian countryside.

Flower Festivals in Italy

Italy, a country renowned for its stunning landscapes, rich history and vibrant culture, also celebrates its natural beauty through a variety of flower festivals that occur throughout the year. These festivals highlight the country’s love of nature and artistry while showcasing the colors and scents of Italian flora.

Infiorata di Genzano di Roma

One of the most enchanting floral festivals is the Infiorata, with Genzano, a picturesque medieval hill town near Rome hosting one of the oldest. Typically held in June, this tradition dates back to 1788 and transforms the Via Italo Belardi into an elaborate carpet of flowers. Approximately 350,000 to 400,000 petals are arranged like mosaics into intricate designs, often depicting religious or cultural themes. As dawn breaks, locals unveil their masterpieces, inviting visitors to wander through a floral wonderland, where the artistry of each design and the fragrance of fresh petals create a magical atmosphere. 

Infiorata di Spello

Another highlight is the Flower Festival of Spello, a charming hilltop town in Umbria. Every year, during the Feast of Corpus Christi, the ninth Sunday after Easter, the town bursts into color as townspeople meticulously select and gather flowers: roses, carnations, daisies and marigolds, to name a few. The floral creations cover streets throughout the historical center in preparation for the passage of the Blessed Sacrament carried in procession by the bishop on Sunday morning. 

Corso Fiorito

Each spring, the coastal town of Sanremo celebrates its floral heritage with a parade of flower-covered floats. Set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Italian Riviera, the festival offers visitors a chance to immerse themselves in the beauty and charm of the Liguria region. The festival’s origins trace back to 1904, when Count Alfredo di Villamarina organized a parade featuring flower-adorned carts and carriages, naming it Festa della Dea Flora (Feast of the Goddess Flora) in honor of the patron deity of flowers. By the 1930s, grand allegorical floats covered in intricate floral designs made their debut, along with the battaglia dei fiori — a playful “battle” where people in the streets and on the floats tossed flowers at one another. While this lively tradition has since died out in Sanremo, it still occurs in the nearby town of Ventimiglia.

Flowers for Mourning and Commemoration

But flowers aren’t all about celebration. In Italy, particular blooms carry meanings associated with grief, remembrance and consolation. The chrysanthemum, for example, is commonly used in funerals and memorial services, symbolizing grief, remembrance and the fleeting nature of life. 

The Language of Flowers 

The symbolism of flowers in Italy is woven with threads of history, culture and faith. Each bloom, from the passionate red rose to the pure white lily, tells its own story, reflecting the values and beliefs of a nation where flowers are more than just decoration — they’re expressions of life itself.

Flowers in Italy remain a timeless and powerful form of communication. They convey emotions beyond what words can express, preserving the depth of human feeling through their beauty and meaning. Whether celebrating love, mourning a loss or marking a spiritual occasion, the language of flowers speaks to the heart of Italian cultural identity. –Mia Roberts

Beltane: Get Fired Up for the Wiccan Fertility Festival

The history of Beltane, from bonfires to maypoles. Plus, how to perform a Wiccan Beltane ritual and cast a witch’s ladder love spell. 

Beltane might have started with the ancient peoples of Western Europe — but celebrations still take place nowadays.

Who knew that jumping over flames was the key to making babies?

The ancient Celts, that’s who. The practice was a staple of the holiday known as Beltane. 

Now a Wiccan holiday, Beltane is traditionally celebrated as a spring festival, usually on or around May 1 in the Northern Hemisphere. (You can imagine how it has influenced modern May Day celebrations.) It marks the midpoint between the spring equinox and the summer solstice, which means that it is a cross-quarter festival, falling halfway between two of the four major solar festivals of the year (the equinoxes and solstices). However, some people consider Beltane to be a summer festival, as it is often associated with the beginning of the summer season and the longer, warmer days that come with it.

“Participants would jump over fires or pass through them for purification and blessings — and to increase their chance of getting knocked up. ”

“The celebration of Beltane was linked to the ancient Celtic calendar, which divided the year into two halves, light and dark. Beltane was a time of transition between the two, marking the beginning of the light half of the year,” Peter Berresford Ellis writes in The Druids.

Queen Guinevere’s Maying by John Collier, 1900

While its exact origins are shrouded in mystery, we do know that Beltane has been celebrated in one form or another for thousands of years. It’s believed to have originated as a Celtic festival to celebrate fertility and growth, which is why people would dance around a giant phallic symbol (the maypole) and leap over bonfires. Apparently, this was all very conducive to fertility. Couples would join in the fun and leap together to cement their bond. 

This bonfire is too high to jump over. Many Wiccans and neopagans today prefer to jump over a candle.

From Fertility to Frivolity: The Flaming Hot History of Beltane

Bonfires are a big part of Beltane. 

Back in the day, people would light giant fires and lead their livestock through the flames to purify them from disease and ensure fertility for the coming year. (I don’t recommend trying that at home, folks.)

It wasn’t just about the animals, though. Bonfires were set ablaze for the community to celebrate the returning warmth and light of the sun. Participants would jump over the fires or pass through them for purification and blessings — and to increase their chance of getting knocked up. 

It’s not certain, but a man and woman might have come together sexually during the rite of Beltane in the past as way to symbolize the union of the Goddess and God.

Ritual sex might have been practiced at Beltane. 

In addition, people would maybe even indulge in a little bit of ritual hanky-panky (if you catch my drift). There’s evidence to suggest that ritual copulation may have been part of Beltane celebrations in pagan times. Some historical accounts describe Beltane as a time when couples would come together in a sacred union to symbolize the union of the Goddess and the God, or the masculine and feminine energies of the universe. 

Walpurgisnacht/Hexensabbat by Orlando Antonio, 1878

Beltane gets connected to Walpurgis Night.  

Beltane is sometimes celebrated on the same day as Walpurgis Night (Walpurgisnacht or Valborgsmässoafton), a pagan festival observed in parts of Northern Europe. The festival is named after Saint Walpurga, an 8th century Christian missionary who was believed to have fought against pagan customs and beliefs (boo, hiss). 

In Germanic folklore, Walpurgis Night was believed to be a time when witches and supernatural beings gathered on mountaintops to hold revels and celebrate the coming of spring. Bonfires were lit to ward off evil spirits, and people would dress in costumes or wear masks to avoid being recognized by the evil creatures. 

Around Beltane, pilgrims tie ribbons to trees when visiting this holy well at Cranfield in Northern Ireland.

On Beltane, holy wells or natural springs were visited. 

This was yet another way to celebrate the return of life and fertility to the land. Some of the customs that people performed at holy wells on Beltane were:

• Leaving offerings of flowers or small personal items, including tying ribbons to nearby branches

• Walking clockwise around the well while praying for good health

• Drinking or washing with the water, which was thought to have healing properties

• Collecting dew from nearby grass or flowers, believed to bring beauty and youthfulness

Hawthorns are connected to the fairy realm.

The hawthorn tree, a symbol of Beltane, are portals to the fairy realm. 

Hawthorn trees are a type of thorny shrub that have white flowers in the spring. In Celtic culture, hawthorns were considered sacred and connected to the fairy realm. They were often found near holy wells or on fairy hills, where they marked the entrance to the land of fey. 

At Beltane, people would decorate hawthorn trees with ribbons and flowers as a way of making wishes or honoring the fairies. However, hawthorns were also feared, as they could bring misfortune if harmed. There was a strong taboo against cutting down a hawthorn tree or bringing its flowers into the house. 

Some legends say that if you sit under a hawthorn tree on Beltane, you might see fairies — or even be snatched away by them. 

Beltane is the perfect time to embrace new beginnings and focus on the things you want to change.

Modern-Day Wiccan Beltane Practices: Transformation Time

Beltane is also a time to embrace new beginnings, to take a long, hard look at your life and ask, “What do I want to achieve? What do I want to change?” And then you can dance around the bonfire and hope that the pagan gods give you a little nudge in the right direction.

“Beltane is a time to celebrate the life force within us and around us. It’s a time to honor the wildness and vitality of nature, and to tap into that energy to bring about positive change in our lives,” writes Phyllis Curott in Book of Shadows. 

Here are some ways for modern-day Wiccans to celebrate Beltane:

Less explicit than ritualized coupling, maypoles are sometimes viewed as phallic, while the ribbons represent fertility. As they twine together, it’s a mingling of masculine and feminine energies.

Create a maypole. 

You can decorate your maypole with ribbons or other symbols of the season, and dance around it with friends or family.

Cast a love spell. 

Beltane is a time when the energies of love and fertility are said to be at their strongest. Many Wiccans choose to perform love spells during this time, whether to attract a new partner or to strengthen an existing relationship. I imagine it’s also a good time to work some magic to try to get pregnant.

Perform a garden blessing. 

At Beltane, the Earth is coming back to life, and many Wiccans choose to bless their gardens or outdoor spaces at this time. You can create a simple ritual by lighting a candle and incense and reciting a blessing for the plants and creatures that call your garden home.

Welcome in warmer days, manifest love or pregnancy and work on your personal growth during a Wiccan Beltane ritual.

A Beltane Ritual

A Wiccan Beltane ritual is a way to honor the sacred union of the Goddess and the God, celebrate the fertility of nature, and express your personal goals and desires. There are many ways to perform a Beltane ritual, but here’s one example. What I love about Wicca is that you can always adapt any practices to your preferences and circumstances. 

Find a tree branch to place on your altar. 

Add ribbons, flowers, candles, incense (rose, violet or mugwort) and any other items that represent Beltane to you on your altar. You will also need a cup of a ritual beverage (such as wine or water), some bread or cake for an offering, and any spell components you want to use.

Take a ritual bath and dress yourself for Beltane. 

Baths aren’t necessary, but it’s a good way to purify yourself and get into the zone. As for your ritual outfit, bonus points for flowers in your hair and a wreath or garland around your neck. Floral patterns are always a good idea at Beltane. 

Light the candles and incense and ground yourself. 

Cast a circle starting from the south (the direction of fire). 

Chant:

By the powers of the Sky Father
The burst of wind, the shower of rain
The bolt of lightning, the clap of thunder
By the powers of the Earth Mother
The strong mountain, the fertile soil 
The rushing river, the fragrant wildflowers
May this circle be cast 
A place between the worlds
On this Beltane Sabbat
Joining the powers above
And the powers below
So mote it be.

Invoke the Goddess and God. 

Do this in whatever way feels right to you. You can use statues, candles or pictures to represent them on your altar. You can also recite a poem or prayer dedicated to them. For example:

Blessed be the Lady of Spring
Who brings life and joy to all things. 
Blessed be the Lord of Fire 
Who sparks passion and desire. 

Express your gratitude for all that you have received. 

Think about how you have grown physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually in this season. Thank the deities for their gifts and guidance.

State your intentions for what you want to manifest in your life. 

What areas of your life need more growth, creativity or love? Write them down on ribbons. Tie the ribbons around your tree branch while saying what you want to attract into your life.

Make a witch’s ladder to bring love into your life. 

Braid three ribbons (pink, red and white). Weave in objects that symbolize love, such as rose petals, heart-shaped charms and rose quartz crystals. 

As you do, chant:

Love come near, love come fast
Love be strong, love be lasting
Love be kind, love be true 
Love be mine, I welcome you.

Hang the witch’s ladder somewhere you can see it often.

Celebrate by eating and drinking your offerings. 

Thank the Goddess and God for sharing their energy with you.

Close the circle. 

Do this in the reverse order from how you invoked them.

Say: 

The circle is open but unbroken. 
May peace and love remain within. 
Merry meet
Merry part
And merry meet again.

St. George’s Kermis With the Dance Around the Maypole by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, 1627

As if longer, warmer days weren’t enough to celebrate, Beltane’s also got pole dancing, leaping over flames, tempting fairies, casting love spells and maybe even a little outdoor sex. It’s the ultimate spring fling. –Wally

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Where the Heck Did the Easter Bunny Come From?

Hopping through the history of the Easter Bunny, from pagan rituals to modern-day celebrations. Along the way, we’ll make some egg-citing discoveries about his birth as a fertility symbol and the origin of dyed eggs and Easter baskets.

Who knew the Easter Bunny evolved from the animal companion of a pagan goddess?

I once sponsored a child in India. His name was Papu Magi, and I regularly wrote him letters, sharing U.S. customs. When Easter rolled around, I explained how a giant human-sized bunny sneaks into our homes at night and leaves baskets filled with candy and colored eggs.

It wasn’t until I had written it out that I realized how bizarre some of our holiday traditions truly are. This got me thinking: How did we come up with the Easter Bunny?

“It makes you wonder if most Christians realize the holiday dedicated to the resurrection of their savior is actually named for a pagan goddess.”

Young women dance around a phallic maypole to increase their fertility — another pagan spring tradition.

A Pagan Origin: How the Easter Bunny and Dyed Eggs Became Symbols of Spring Celebrations

The origins of the Easter Bunny, as well as dyed eggs, can be traced back to ancient pagan rituals that celebrated the arrival of spring, including Ostara. Still practiced as a Wiccan holiday, Ostara is a celebration of the spring equinox. It’s named after the Germanic goddess Eostre, who some scholars deduce was associated with the dawn, fertility and new beginnings. (It makes you wonder if most Christians realize the holiday dedicated to the resurrection of their savior is actually named for a pagan deity).

Caveat: Hard evidence about Eostre is lacking, and the goddess remains shrouded in mystery. Much of what’s reported on her is conjecture.

Her first mention comes from a famous monk, the Venerable Bede, in 731 CE, who wrote that the Anglo-Saxons called April Eosturmonath, or Eostre Month, in honor a pagan goddess worshiped at that time.

Easter gets its name from Eostre, a pagan goddess of the spring.

These rites of spring were full of festive merrymaking, including dancing around maypoles, drinking mead and worshiping rabbits.

Yup, that’s right: Bunnies were a key figure in these celebrations. In pagan traditions, the rabbit was seen as a symbol of fertility and new life — no real surprise, given their well-deserved reputation for rapid reproduction.

During these springtime celebrations, people would decorate eggs, believing them to have the power to bring new life and prosperity to those who ate them. Using natural dyes made from flowers and other plants, they created eggs in a variety of hues. And, as crazy as it might sound, rabbits were said to be responsible for laying colored eggs.

Do Jesus and the Easter Bunny belong in the same holiday?

Hopping Into Easter: The Christian Origins of the Easter Bunny and Its Symbolism of Resurrection

The Easter Bunny may have its roots in pagan traditions, but it also had a significant place in Christian beliefs. The early Christians in Europe adopted many pagan customs and blended them with their own religious practices, which is how the Easter Bunny eventually found its way into the Christian tradition.

Much as with Christmas, some Christians bemoan the commercialization of the Easter holiday.

I’m not sure that many Christians today connect the commercial aspects of Easter with the religious ones (there’s a parallel to Santa and Christmas), but back in the day, early Christians associated the rabbit, and all of its spring rebirth symbolism, with Jesus’ resurrection.

It seems that Karen Swallow Prior, a professor of Christianity and culture at Southeastern Baptist Theological Seminary, agrees. “There’s nothing wrong with dressing up in pastels, hiding eggs or consuming large amounts of chocolate,” she wrote in an op-ed in The Washington Post. “But if the fluffy white bunny takes precedence over the crucified and resurrected Lord, we’ve missed the point.”

Easter baskets came about from a pagan tradition to carry offerings to the goddess of spring.

The History of Easter Baskets: From Pagan Offerings to Sweet Treats

Easter baskets are a staple of the holiday, but how did they become a part of the Easter tradition? It turns out that the origin of the Easter basket is also closely tied to the pagan celebrations of spring.

In pagan traditions, baskets were used to carry offerings to the goddess of spring, including eggs, thought to increase fertility. Over time, the baskets became a symbol of the bounty of spring and were filled with all sorts of goodies, like flowers, fruit and vegetables.

Well, no wonder the Easter Bunny decided to switch to baskets!

As the Easter basket evolved, so did its contents. Today, they’re most often filled with candy (including a chocolate rabbit, which kids will disturbingly bite its ears off of) and other treats, filled by the Easter Bunny himself during a nocturnal visit — again, another connection to Santa Claus. 

It’s hard to tell exactly when the Easter Bunny became adult-sized and anthropomorphic, but it seems like it might have happened around the 1950s.

Hare Today, Easter Bunny Tomorrow: Tracing the Evolution of the Beloved Easter Mascot

The Easter Bunny has been a beloved symbol of the holiday for centuries, but have you ever wondered how it evolved into the oversized, anthropomorphic creature we know today? 

He didn’t start out that way. The hare, a smaller relative of the rabbit, was revered by ancient cultures for its speed, agility and ability to reproduce, and was often associated with the moon and the goddess of fertility. A study from 2020 draws a direct connection between Eostre and her association with the hare.

Bunnies and colored eggs have long been symbols of spring, representing new life.

As the hare became associated with pagan spring celebrations, it eventually evolved into the Easter Bunny we know today. This transformation was likely influenced by the German tradition of the Osterhase, a hare who laid eggs for children on Easter morning.

Jacob Grimm, one of the famous Brothers Grimm who collected oral folklore throughout Germany, said in 1835 that the Easter hare was associated with Eostre, or Ostara, as she would have been called in ancient German.

At some point, the Easter Bunny grew in size and children were told he visits their homes at night (much like Santa) to leave them candy-filled Easter baskets.

Vintage cards from the late 1800s to early 1900s show a lot of rabbits, but it seems like it wasn’t until the 1950s or so that the Easter Bunny became more and more human-like. Perhaps families or malls started having someone dress up like the Easter Bunny for photo opportunities. And despite the fact that the Easter Bunny became bipedal and reached 6 feet or so (not counting the ears), most kids believe he can’t actually talk. 

Then again, it might have come down to marketing as a gimmick to help sell candy. “The Easter Bunny was created out of whole cloth by the confectionary industry,” claims David Emery, who writes for the fact-check site Snopes.

In another connection to Christmas, it has become a tradition to terrorize children by making them sit on the Easter Bunny’s lap for a photo.

Today, the Easter Bunny is a staple of the holiday, sometimes depicted wearing clothes — most often a vest and bowtie — and carrying baskets of eggs and treats.

To quote the M&M’s commercial, a fave of mine as a kid in the ’80s: “Thanks, Easter Bunny! Bawk! Bawk!” –Wally

Day of the Dead Ofrendas 2022

The Día de los Muertos ofrendas at the National Museum of Mexican Art focused on victims of COVID as well as gun violence, including the students and teachers killed in Uvalde.

Día de los Inocentes (Holy Innocents Day) by Claudia Álvarez, 2010. The sculpture represents the story in the New Testament where King Herod orders the massacre of all children under the age of 2 in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus.

The Mexican tradition of honoring loved ones with an ofrenda is something every family should adopt. These homemade altars are typically adorned with marigolds, photos, and items the deceased person would appreciate, including their favorite foods and beverages (empanadas and a margarita on mine, por favor). But even if you don’t create one at home, you can see artistic interpretations if you’re in Chicago.

Sometime around mid-October, Duke and I head to the Pilsen neighborhood to see the Day of the Dead ofrendas at the National Museum of Mexican Art. 

The original concept of the exhibit was to honor people in the USA who had been murdered. 

“In the last decade, we have been overwhelmed with the amount of mass shootings on an annual basis that there have been far too many for this exhibition,” reads the sign at the start of the exhibit, proclaiming, “Enough is enough!”

This year, the 36th Day of the Dead installation, covers not only senseless gun violence — including a moving memorial to the victims of the Uvalde school massacre — but Mexican actors who passed away and those lost to COVID and suicide.

Ofrenda to artisans who died of COVID

A photo of one of the artists memorialized in the ofrenda, Tiburcio Soteno Fernandez, with the tools of his trade and his iconic mermaid alebrije.

An ofrenda to Mexican cinema by the Puerto Rican Antonio Martorell

La muerte allá donde la vida no vale nada (Death, Where Life Has No Worth) by Alejandro Cortés, Dolores Gómez Navarro and Jorje Negrete. Note the upside-down ofrenda, pointing to Mictlan, the underworld of the ancient Mesoamerican peoples.

An ofrenda to the Latinx victims of the Uvalde, Texas shooting at Robb Elementary School. It was created by students at Bernard Moos Elementary School in Chicago.

Ofrenda a los Arrancados (Ofrenda to the Uprooted) by Carlos Flores. He used “bandit signs” to pay tribute to the working-class people of color who disproportionally lost their lives to COVID.

This ofrenda, created by the Ukrainian Institute of Modern Art, pays homage to weavers of the war-torn country.

Ofrenda to Nieves Orozco Field, an indigenous dancer who modeled for Diego Rivera

Molds used to make sugar skulls for Day of the Dead

Skeletons go hand in hand with Day of the Dead, as do sugar skulls.

Año de los Muertos (Year of the Dead) by Eric Romero, 2020

A Tree of Life with Mexican rites and rituals by Israel Soteno, 2007

If you’re in Chicago in the fall, you should definitely stop into the National Museum of Mexican Art (it’s free!) to see their ofrendas. ¡Feliz Día de los Muertos! –Wally

Haunting the Panteón 5 de Diciembre

This Puerto Vallarta cemetery is home to a heartbroken ghost. 

The Panteón 5 de Diciembre: Puerto Vallarta’s main cemetery

Official records for the cemetery date back to 1916, when some bodies discovered in Hidalgo Park were interred in the Pantheon 5th of December — named for the PV neighborhood it’s located in. 

What’s so special about that date? Locals honor December 5, as it was on that day in 1929 that the Puerto Vallarta Ejido was formed. This collective offered land for local farmers to lease — the government appropriated 2,808 hectares from the Union en Cuale silver mining company in a show of egalitarianism after the Mexican Revolution.

“On dark nights, the ghost of a woman can be seen making the trek from Hidalgo Park to the Panteón 5 de Diciembre. ”

Look homeward, angel: A woman’s ghost visits her husband’s grave after their remains were separated.

The Ghost of Hidalgo Park

As you can imagine, the transfer of the remains wasn’t foolproof. Some of the bones are said to remain at the old site. 

On dark nights, Vallartenses (as locals are called) say that a woman can be seen making the trek from the old burial site to the Panteón 5 de Diciembre. She must get tired, for cab drivers have reported her requesting a ride — with the dead giveaway that she’s actually levitating above the ground! 

One taxi driver, during a storm in the early 1960s, picked up the woman, noting that she smelled of roses. She wore a black dress with white circles that made him think of eyes watching him. 

The cabbie kept asking if the young woman was married, and she eventually acknowledged that she was. What the driver didn’t know at the time was that the couple were dead and had once been buried together. But while the husband’s remains had been relocated to Panteón 5 de Diciembre, the wife’s were left behind at Hidalgo Park. 

“I’ve come to comfort him,” the passenger said. A flash of lightning illuminated the sky — and when the taxi driver looked into his rearview mirror, the backseat was empty. 

But then the woman spoke again, talking of the painful separation from her husband. The cabbie saw her floating over the sidewalk and through the closed gate to the cemetery. 

Inside the taxi, the smell of roses turned to the stench of decay. 

Dried marigold petals on a tombstone

A Visit for Día de los Muertos 

Duke and I visited on November 1. We hoped to see families placing bright orange marigolds, candles, photos, food items and cigarettes on the graves to lead their loved ones back from the afterlife. Instead, we only saw a couple of cans of beer left out, and a few families cleaning some of the gravesites. 

Perhaps the lack of activity was due to the fact that Day of the Dead really kicks into gear the next day. Plus, even though it was fall, the midday sun blazed down upon us scorchingly, and we tried to keep to the shade as much as possible. 

A vendor sells marigolds outside the cemetery — the flower is especially popular around the Day of the Dead.

La Muerte Está Viva Parade

I was bummed to discover that we were one stinking day early on our visit. On November 2, a parade called La Muerte Está Viva (Death Is Alive) progresses from the cemetery to the Plaza Lázaro Cárdena, where a folk art festival is held. 

The Pantheon 5th of December has everything from gorgeous gravesites like this one to simple crosses with hand-painted Jesus heads.

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If you find cemeteries as intriguing as Duke and I do, the Pantheon 5th of December is worth a visit. Just keep an eye out for a woman in a black dress whose feet don’t quite touch the ground. –Wally

Panteón 5 de Diciembre
Brasilia 715
5 de Diciembre
48350 Puerto Vallarta
Jalisco
Mexico

 

Ancient Egyptian Words You Should Know

Do you know your ba from your ka? What’s a vizier? How about a cartouche? Our handy glossary of Ancient Egyptian terms will have you speaking like a pharaoh in no time.

How many Ancient Egyptian terms can you spot in this image?

The terms we use to describe the religion, history and artifacts of Ancient Egypt are a strange mishmash of words that have French, Greek, English, Arabic — and yes, sometimes even Egyptian — origins.

Talk Like an Egyptian 

As you read more about the fascinating and complex world of Ancient Egypt, it helps to familiarize yourself with the terms that come up the most often. It’s probably a good idea to bookmark this page for easy reference — especially if you’re considering a visit. 🤗 

ankh: The hieroglyphic symbol for life, similar to a cross but with a loop in place of the upper arm. It was especially popular in jewellery and on temple carvings, where it was held in the hands of deities or being given by them to the pharaoh, to represent their power to sustain life and to revive human souls in the afterlife.

atef: The atef crown was made up of the White Crown of Upper Egypt with red ostrich feathers on either side. It was worn by the god of the underworld, Osiris.

ba: The ba is, essentially, the concept of the soul. Depicted as a bird with a human head, it could leave a person’s tomb to fly about. 

barque: These thin boats that curve up at either end were the transports of the gods, especially during festival processions. In temple sanctuaries, models of barques held statues of a deity. When a pharaoh died, a barque would transport them on their way to becoming a god.

Book of the Dead: This is the modern name ascribed to a collection of 200 hymns, rituals and spells that allowed the deceased to travel safely through the underworld and enter the afterlife. Ancient Egyptians knew it as the Spells for Going Forth by Day.

canopic jars: Four containers used to store the preserved internal organs of the deceased (the lungs, stomach, liver and intestines) extracted during the mummification process. Each jar was topped with the head of one of the god Horus’ sons.

cartouche: The oval frame that surrounds the name of a king, queen or god in inscriptions.

Coffin Texts: Collected during the First Intermediate Period, around 2134-2040 BCE, these 1,185 incantations and other forms of religious writing were inscribed on coffins to help the deceased navigate the afterlife, providing maps of the underworld and the best way to avoid dangers on one’s way to paradise.

deshret (or Red Crown): The crown, with a square base that curved upward into a point and had a coil spiraling out in front, was worn by the rulers of Lower Egypt.

djed: A representation of the spine, it symbolized stability. A djed amulet was often placed in coffins, where the backbone of the deceased would lay, to ensure eternal life. During a Sed festival, the pharaoh, with the help of priests, would raise a djed column. 

Duat: The underworld, home of the gods Osiris, Anubis and Ma’at, as well as many grotesque monsters. The sun deity Ra travels through the Duat every night, where he battles the serpent Apep, or Apophis. This is where a deceased person’s soul travels for judgment. 

Eye of Horus (aka udjat eye or wedjat eye): A falcon’s eye that acts as a protective talisman and symbolizes rebirth after death. Its origins lie in a myth where the evil god Set plucks out one of his nephew Horus’ eyes. 

faience: A powdered quartz paste that ranges in color from turquoise to teal. Modeled and sometimes fired, it was commonly used for jewelry, pottery and sculptures.

hedjet (or White Crown): The crown of Upper Egypt, it’s often irreverently (but accurately) described as looking like a bowling pin.

hieroglyphs: Think of them as the emojis of their day. Often mistakenly called hieroglyphics, they make up the system of pictorial writing used in Ancient Egypt. Though they sometimes represented the actual objects they depicted, hieroglyphs usually stood for particular sounds. 

Horus name: Beginning in the Predynastic Period, pharaohs would take on an additional name, cementing their relationship with the falcon-headed god Horus. The pharaoh oversaw their entire country and, like the bird of prey, could strike at enemies below. 

hypostyle hall: The reception area of a temple. Originally, most would have had a roof over rows of densely packed columns with capitals depicting palms, papyri or lotuses to represent the lush island of creation.

ka: The best way to describe this is as a soul — it’s someone’s other self, what makes them unique. It’s with a person throughout their life, but upon death the ka and the body become separate. The body has to be preserved, and the ka nourished, or it will starve and cease to exist. It’s represented as a human with upraised arms — or just the arms raised at a 90-degree angle. 

khepresh (or Blue Crown): Often worn by pharaohs when going into war, the khepresh was a blue headpiece with a uraeus on the brow.

kohl: Black powder made from galena ore (the chief source of lead) mixed with oil and used as an eyeliner by women and men.

Lower Egypt: The Ancient Egyptian worldview was upside-down compared to ours. Lower Egypt was the northern half of Egypt, so called because the Nile flows north before entering the Mediterranean Sea. Its capital was Memphis.

ma’at (aka maat): The principle of balance and cosmic order, personified by a goddess of the same name. It was a pharaoh’s duty to rule according to ma’at.

mammisi: A birth house, where a woman would go to deliver a child and recover for two weeks or so. These chapels were often situated in front of a temple and were said to be where a god had been born.

mastaba: A type of tomb first created in the Old Kingdom. From the Arabic word for “bench,” they were rectangular and flat-roofed, with a substructure belowground. As time went on, architects stacked stories atop them, leading to step pyramids and, eventually, the triangular pyramids like those at Giza.

nemes: A striped head covering worn by pharoahs. It covered the brow and skull, hung down on the side to rest on the shoulders, and was drawn together in the back in a sort of ponytail. King Tut was a fan. 

Opening of the Mouth: A ceremony held at the tomb, where the mouth of a mummy was symbolically opened so the dead could use their senses in the afterlife.

Opet: A festival held during the inundation, or flooding of the Nile. The statue of the chief god Amun would travel upon a barque from his sanctuary at Karnak to Luxor Temple.

papyrus: The writing surface used by Egyptian scribes. Derived from the pith of the stalks of papyrus, which grew along the banks of the Nile, the plant was also used to make boats, sandals, baskets and rope. 

pectoral: An elaborate necklace that covered much of the chest.

pharaoh: The supreme ruler of Ancient Egypt. He or she (there are a few times when a woman took the throne, like the remarkable Hatshepsut) was considered a god.

pschent (or the Double Crown): A combination of the deshret and hedjet crowns, it showed that the pharaoh controlled both Lower and Upper Egypt.

pylon: A massive gateway leading into a temple. Some held rooms, like the one for the harem at Medinet Habu.

Pyramid Texts: The earliest religious texts of Ancient Egypt. These spells, religious beliefs and myths were inscribed on the walls of Fifth and Sixth Dynasty pyramids (2465-2150 BCE). They were used to magically transform the deceased into the god of the afterlife, Osiris. Composed of 2,217 spells grouped into 714 “utterances,” they gave way to the Coffin Texts.

rekhyt: A stylized lapwing bird with wings spread and human arms raised in adoration, representing the general populace or the pharaoh's subjects. When depicted on the walls of ancient temples, it signified that the public was allowed in that area. 

sarcophagus: A large stone container that held a mummy's coffin. Its name comes from the Greek sarkophagos, meaning “flesh-eater.”

Sed: A festival of rejuvenation that renewed the powers of a pharaoh, it was usually — but not always — held in their 30th year of rule.

senet: A game played in Ancient Egypt. No one knows the rules, but they think it was a bit like chess. Pieces were usually fashioned from animal bone or clay. 

shabti (also shawabti or ushabti): A small mummy statuette of a servant placed in tombs that could be magically brought to life to perform tasks for the deceased in the afterlife.

sistrum: A sacred rattle made of a wood, metal or clay frame set loosely with crossbars strung with small metal discs. It was shaken during ritual dances for the goddess Hathor and later Isis.

sphinx: A mythological beast with the body of a lion that usually had the head of a pharaoh or god. The famous one sits outside Cairo at Giza. 

stele (also stela): An upright slab of stone that served as a monument, inscribed with religious or historical text.

Upper Egypt: The southern half of the kingdom of Ancient Egypt. It’s called Upper Egypt because the Nile River flows northward, from Upper to Lower Egypt. Its capital was Thebes.

uraeus: A rearing cobra in a threatening pose that represented divine authority, worn as a crown or head ornament by Ancient Egyptian divinities and rulers. It showed that the pharaoh had the protection of the goddess Wadjet, the patroness of Lower Egypt.

vizier: The second in command after the pharaoh. The role held many responsibilities, including administration of the government, security, judgement and the safety of the empire.

was scepter: A staff that’s often forked at the bottom and topped with the head of a creature, possibly the Bennu bird, a mythological heron who wears the atef crown. Carried by gods and pharaohs, the was scepter stood for power and dominion. –Wally

Witnessing a Hindu Festival at Pura Samuan Tiga

We stumbled upon a full moon festival of Siat Sampian at a local temple near Goa Gajah, Bali — glimpsing a fascinating ritual but missing the big fight.

Pura Samuan Tiga, during the precursors to the Siat Sampian festival

Our driver seemed to be trying to dissuade us from visiting Pura Samuan Tiga.

“It will be very, very crowded,” he told us, “because of the festival for the full moon. Not a good time to go.”

But hearing there was a festival only made us want to visit all the more.

Temples popular on the tourist trail are always worth seeing, but we recommend finding at least one local temple on every trip. It’s a fascinating glimpse into another religion — especially when it’s the ever-enigmatic Hinduism, the major world religion I understand the least.

A man and his children pause under the elaborate temple offerings

Fences close off areas of worship at Samuan Tiga

Duke, a total Ravenclaw when it comes to research, will spend hours poring over websites and books when building out our itineraries for a trip. He found Samuan Tiga and suggested a stopover en route to the nearby giant mouth cave of Goa Gajah. Located in the village of Bedulu in the Gianyar regency, the temple is about a 20-minute drive from Ubud, where we based ourselves.

Pura Samuan Tiga might not be one of the most visited temples on the island — but it gives you a great feel for what these sprawling Hindu temple complexes are like. Especially if you’re lucky enough to happen upon it during a festival.

Bhoma guards the temple from malevolent spirits

The statuary in the temple was originally carved from volcanic rock

One of the outer courtyards at Samuan Tiga, which was much less crowded than those within

The vast, bustling temple complex evokes the feel of a village market

Built between 988 and 1011,  the temple sports typical Balinese religious architectural design, with its soaring orange brick gates, weathered teak open-air pavilions, volcanic stone carvings of bulging-eyed monsters and thatched triangular rooftops. While most temples on Bali (pura in the local tongue) have three courtyards, Samuan Tiga is much larger, with seven.

There’s some debate around the reason for the temple’s name, which translates to “the meeting of the three.” Local lore holds that three warring Hindu sects came together to resolve their issues. The royal priest decreed that each kingdom would have three main temples, which represented not only the Hindu trilogy of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva but the mountain, village and sea as well.

One area of the temple was filled with offering baskets

Like a National Geographic Article Come to Life

We had stumbled upon one of the oldest Hindu rituals on Bali: Siat Sampian (War of the Offerings), which takes place every 10th full moon. While we saw many crowds praying in the various courtyards, apparently we missed the battle that would take place later, when hundreds of pilgrims playfully “attack” each other, throwing arrangements called sampian, which consist of woven palm fronds pointing out like the rays of the sun.

That’s the trouble with knowledge sharing, even in this age of the internet. It was tough even discovering the name of the temple — and we didn’t learn about the details of the festival until we were back home. I wish our driver or another local had known more about Siat Sampian, and we could have tried to time our visit with the frenzied fake fight. Sigh.

There was still much to see, though. Women carried stacked woven baskets atop their heads, all dressed in long-sleeved lace tops, most of them white, paired with brightly colored sashes around their waists and ankle-length floral sarongs. Children, also in vibrant sarongs, munched on snacks.

Women carry their loads in woven containers atop their heads

Some of the men have adopted this means of carrying offerings

Children probably spend hours at the temple during the festival and snack throughout the day

Samuan Tiga sports seven courtyards — more than your typical Balinese temple — and they were all quite crowded

In certain parts of the temple, facing raised platforms, people crowded into tight spaces, sitting down to pray — a vast sea of worshippers, most of whom wore white shirts, the men also in white headbands with a sort of bow in front. Everyone sat quietly, arms extended in front of their faces, their hands pressed together. This is the purification process before the comedic war to come.

The crowds got downright claustrophobic in quite a few areas

People worshipped in different courtyards

This area was right off of the Barong pavilion

Offering baskets were everywhere, small square trays woven from palm fronds and filled with rice, flowers and fruit.

An elaborate floral offering

Beautiful offerings for the gods

Fruit is a popular offering

Worshippers create small offering dishes filled with flowers and food

An entire pavilion was filled with masks of Barong, who, despite his sharp fangs and wide eyes, is actually the personification of good.

Barong masks receive offerings 

As frightening as he looks, Barong is actually reprepsentative of all that is good

Masks of Barong lined an entire pavilion at Samuan Tiga

In one corner of the temple complex, we stopped to listen to an entirely female gamelan troupe. I had always heard of the percussion-heavy, xylophone-like instruments being played by men and wondered if this was a new phenomenon.

An all-female gamelan band

As they played their jarring and discordant yet strangely hypnotic tunes, a man in costume approached for a dance. Covered in layers of colorful fabric with shimmering gold designs, barefoot, boasting long nails like claws, he descended the stairs. As he got closer, what caught my eye most was his frightening visage: a wide, wrinkled brown mask with a sweeping black mustache. Its features seemed pinched from the nose, lending an overall appearance of a rodent, not softened by the floral headband framing his face. If anything, it looked like foliage that had caught as he burrowed in the dirt. He made slow, sweeping movements, only his hands twitching rapidly, like the fluttering wings of a raven.

We think the character might be Topeng Bujuh, a comic figure in Balinese performances.

A creepy costumed character danced to the gamelan music

As we wandered through the courtyards, most people were extremely happy to see us. They grinned, said hello, greeting us with a sembah (a gesture of respect, similar to the Thai wai, where you place your palms together in front of your chest and bow). I took the opportunity to snap quick photos of the worshippers and almost every time, they smiled back at me, unoffended, much to my relief. It seemed they were happy to share their experience, that they were glad a couple of Western tourists had felt their sacred festival worthy of a visit. –Wally

Pura Samuan Tiga is one of the largest Hindu temples in central Bali

Pura Samuan Tiga
Jalan Pura Samuan Tiga
Bedulu
Blahbatuh
Kabupaten Gianyar
Bali 80581
Indonesia

Portugal’s Pastry Penises

Cock an eye at the phallic pastries from Amarante, Portugal, which, strangely, honor a saint.

Doesn’t this penis pastry look simply mouth-watering? Hopefully it's cream-filled!

Portugal’s pastry penises, they pop up (sorry, couldn’t resist) everywhere. Darling small ones covered in sugar. Massive ones big enough to share. Some are filled with, what else, cream. Porcelain ones, can openers, corkscrews line up on store shelves like soldiers at attention. It’s a penispalooza!

You see them all over the country, but they actually come from Amarante east of Porto. A lovely town where everything — the church, the bridge, the convent, a street — is named after the same man, Amarante sits at the western entrance to the Douro Valley, home to the port wine industry.

“Modestly dressed women giggle as they confront an anatomically correct penis dusted with powdered sugar.

There is that awkward moment of deciding whether to use a knife and fork or pick it up and nibble away.”

In the 13th century, long after the Romans built the bridge that bears his name, a priest, now canonized, São Gonçalo, had “matchmaking abilities.”

There is no word on his personal equipment size. Given the doces fálicos (phallic sweets) or bolos (cakes) that commemorate him, however, it must have been quite something.

The fact that he was run out of town for some long-forgotten reason fuels speculation as to why he is so vividly remembered eight centuries later. Also no word on why he’s revered with pastry — malleable, rise-able, edible…shouldn’t go too far with the metaphors.

Portugal’s penis obsession extends to other products, including bottle openers

The pastries are given as gifts in January so that the recipient will have a fortuitous and fertile year. But the really big celebration is the first week in June, around São Gonçalo's feast day, when Amarante goes penis crazy.

There’s a procession, fireworks, penis bunting, fetching penis deely-boppers and a lot of pastry penis presents to single women looking for love. In other words, the world’s largest bachelorette party.

Phallic baked goods are a common sight in Portugal, especially the town of Amarante

The rest of the year, modestly dressed women sit in cafés throughout the country, sipping espresso and giggling as they confront an anatomically correct, carefully circumcised and fully, shall we say, inflated penis dusted with powdered sugar. There is that awkward moment of deciding whether to use a knife and fork or pick it up and nibble away.

Otherwise, if you miss the festa in Amarante, if you’re new to Portugal, if you haven’t seen anyone eating the equivalent of a phallic doughnut, you are left standing in the middle of Porto’s open-air market, staring into a bakery shop window thinking, “That’s not what I think it is. Is it?” –Rebecca

No Fooling: The History of April Fool’s Day and Poisson d’Avril

Learn the origin of April Fool’s pranks — and check out these bizarre vintage April Fool’s Day cards.

I’m not making this up: No one’s 100% sure how April Fool’s Day started, but it probably began when the New Year moved dates

The flowers begin to bud, robins appear, and a few gorgeously warm days start to sneak their way in. Springtime in Chicago is wonderful — though Duke and I will never forget that early April trip we took to Switzerland, when they were harvesting the spaghetti from the trees. Our timing was perfect; one more week and the limp noodles hanging from the branches would no longer be al dente.

Coincidentally, Easter falls on April 1 this year, as it did in 1957, when the BBC aired a three-minute segment showing people plucking strands of spaghetti from trees. Some viewers even called the BBC, wanting to know where they could purchase their very own spaghetti tree. Of course, it was just an elaborate prank — the first televised April Fool’s Day hoax.

Because spaghetti doesn’t grow on trees, silly.

The Amusingly Mysterious Origins of April Fool’s Day

This isn’t a joke: No one’s completely sure where and when April Fool’s Day started, but they’ve got some pretty good ideas.

A favorite theory is that it has to do with the switch from the Julian calendar, which was introduced by Julius Caesar, to the Gregorian calendar, named for Pope Gregory XIII. The decision was made in 1563 at the Council of Trent. That meant the New Year shifted from the end of March to January 1.

“A poisson d’avril symbolized an easily caught fish and, by extension, a gullible person.”

Some years later, in 1582, the French made the calendar switch. Those who didn’t get the memo or refused to play by the new rules were poked fun at and had paper fish (poisson d’avril, or April fish) sneakily placed on their backs. A poisson d’avril symbolized an easily caught fish and, by extension, a gullible person.

It’s also thought that the ancient Greco-Roman festival known as Hilaria (the Day of Joy) is a precursor to April Fool’s Day. This pagan celebration began on March 25, shortly after the Vernal Equinox, to honor Cybele, Mother of the Gods, and the resurrection of her castrated lover (and in some tellings, her son!), Attis.

The festivities conclude on April 1, accompanied by feasts, games, masquerades and practical jokes — hence the association to April Fool’s Day.

Even the Indian holiday Holi, which takes place around this time of year, involves much mischief-making. Associated with the Hindu demoness, Holika, people celebrate the triumph of good over evil by throwing brightly colored powder on each other.

During the 18th century, April Fool’s Day caught on in Britain. The Scottish celebrated a two-day event that started with “hunting the gowk” (a word for the cuckoo, which represents a fool), during which people are sent on wild goose chases. This was followed by Tailie Day, where the butts of jokes had fake tails or Kick Me signs pinned to their backsides.

Have a laugh at these hilarious (and bizarre) vintage April Fool’s and poisson d’avril cards. –Wally