The King and Queen of Oddities

A Q&A with Ryan Matthew Cohn, with special guest Regina Marie Cohn! We chat about the Oddities Flea Market and a spooky encounter with a disembodied hand. And, of course, it wouldn’t be an interview with the Cohns without mention of disarticulated skeletons.

Ryan Matthew Cohn in blindfold and Regina Marie Cohn with polka dot face mask by taxidermied bird with wings outstretched

A portrait of Ryan Matthew and Regina Marie Cohn that reflects their delightfully warped sensibilites

Duke and I have always been drawn to the bizarre. I mean, we put the Island of Dead Dolls at the top of our CDMX itinerary, and we made sure to hit the Catacombs of Paris. Then there’s the oh-so-creepy Mummy Museum of Guanajuato

Looking around our place, that fondness for the unusual extends to our décor. A taxidermied monitor lizard. A fertility doll from Cameroon loaded with beads, animal horns and bells. A desiccated chameleon from the witch market in the Marrakech souk. A Javanese puppet head of a little girl in pigtails whose tongue pops out when you pull a string. Duke has decided that our style is “mélange de strahnge.”

Turns out we’re not alone. Ryan Matthew Cohn has made a career out of the growing passion for the weird and the creepy. He was the host of the TV show Oddities and now helps run the Oddities Flea Market with his wife, Regina. –Wally

Ryan and Regina Cohn's home, filled with skulls, taxidermied specimens, holy relics and other oddities

A glimpse into the Cohn’s oddity-filled Victorian home in Westport, Connecticut

What first got you interested in all things odd? 

Ryan: I actually don’t know. I just always have been interested in things that are out of the ordinary. I don’t know if it was a specific event or item necessarily that sparked my interest. But I do know that even when I was very young, I had a huge interest in collecting. And so I think it really started with that. And then as I became a little bit older, my tastes seemed to gravitate towards things that were a little bit more odd in nature. And then, you know, they sort of blossomed into what they are now.

How do you define an oddity?

Ryan: People use this term, sometimes when we’re talking, they say, “Oh, well, that was different.” And I’m always like, “Tell me more. I happen to like things that are different.” So I think in terms of what oddities are like as a genre, it’s anything that’s sort of out the ordinary, curious, or, you know, just strays from the norm. 

For a really long time, it was stuff that people didn’t really want. It was stuff that you didn’t really find very often. And certainly a core group of people were collecting that stuff — but it's not anywhere near what it is today.

So oddity collecting has become more popular?

Ryan: Oh, for sure. Oddities is like a household word. Now, back in the day, you just had to hope that you’re gonna find that stuff. And actually, I used to find much more, because there was not much competition. And I think because it’s grown into such a huge subgenre of collecting and lifestyle, it’s made it definitely more challenging to find stuff. But that’s why we started the market.

What prompted you to start the Oddities Flea Market?

Ryan: We felt a strong need to bring a community together that didn’t really have a specific place to go. 

Regina: It started as a one-time event in March 2017. And when we couldn’t even get people through the door because the lines were so long, we realized, oh crap, we got to do it again. So we did it again. And then we realized, OK, this is really popular. We’ll bring it back next year. And then we started doing it twice a year. And the following year, I was like, I have a crazy idea: Let’s go to LA. 

Finding venues was always the hardest thing for us, because we’re not the type of event that is going to set up in a hotel or a gymnasium. We’re always trying to find the coolest event spaces, and that’s why we don't do a lot of them. We’re definitely more quality over quantity in general. So I don’t see myself doing more than three or four a year. Right now, it looks like New York, LA and Chicago are always going to be on the roster. And then if I can pull off a fourth one, I will. 

What’s your vetting process for the market?  

Ryan: It’s not necessarily that someone’s not odd enough. It’s curated in a very specific way so that we don't oversaturate what you’ll find in the market. We try not to have too many jewelers, or too many people that work with insects, or too many taxidermists. We try to really keep a very natural flow that makes sense so that when patrons come in there, they have a little bit of everything. We are very selective. It’s a pretty strict process that we go through in terms of deciding who’s going to be at a future market.

You’re dealing with taxidermied animals and sometimes human skulls and the like. Do you ever reject items? What part do ethical or cultural sensibilities play?

Ryan: You have to have a tremendous amount of respect for any of those types of things that you’re dealing with. Of course, with taxidermy, most people claim that they have ethically sourced specimens. So we tend to look for taxidermists that use ethically sourced specimens. Same goes for all of the natural specimens that people use in their artwork and such.

Ryan and Regina Cohn's collection of religious icons, including hands and heads of saints

Ryan and Regina’s stunning collection of curiosities includes Spanish santos figures, reliquaries and other ancient artifacts.

What’s the favorite oddity you own?

Ryan: It’s hard to pick one — there’s so many different categories, at least in our collection. Right now, I’m very much into collecting early occult books — books that are from the 14th, 15th and 16th century. And I think those my most coveted items at the moment.

I do collect a lot of saints and reliquaries. Regina and I travel in Europe quite frequently. And every time I go to Europe, I realize that we’re just looking at the literal remains or scraps of what once existed there. It’s very difficult to find the types of things that we collect in America. So, when I go to Europe, I usually fill up a whole suitcase full of paintings and other such things. 

So other kinds of collections, I really try to focus my attention on early forms of memento mori: artwork, sculpture and paintings showcasing the skeleton, because my passion started in anatomy. 

What oddity of all time do you covet the most?

Ryan: You know, it’s funny — there have been large collections that I didn’t end up getting because maybe they went to auction. I’m one of those people, personally, that if an entire museum is for sale, I want to buy the whole thing. I don’t want one or two pieces. I want everything because then I can kind of figure out what I want with select pieces later: Keep the pieces that make the most sense with our own curations and collection, and then maybe sell some of the other pieces to help fund that collection. I feel like at this point in my collecting career, I have a lot of the pieces that I’ve always sought after.

What do you mean when you say you buy a museum?

Ryan: Say a natural history museum had to shut its doors. I’ll buy the whole thing. Or say a private lifelong collector had been compiling things for his whole life. I’ll get a call and we’ll buy it. I won’t buy two or three items. I'll buy like 3,000.

It’s funny when people are like, “Hey, I have this huge collection. Do you want pictures?” I’m like, “Not really.” I’d rather come there and assess it. Because, you know, you need to be there. You need to be ready to drop money and pounce on a collection. Because if you don’t, or someone’s thought about something for too long, there’s been too much time to think and it’s probably gonna go to auction. The kiss of death.

Have there been any supernatural incidents with your oddities?

Ryan: Both Regina and myself have always been open to the idea of spirits and energies and even actual ghosts in our home. But we’ve actually never really seen anything. We’ve just had a couple strange occurrences like, a doll ending up in another part of the house, but not moved by the dogs. 

Regina: One time I was struggling to pull off a zipper. And I turned around, thinking Ryan was helping me — only he wasn’t. He was downstairs. And I found myself making eye contact with a wax hand that was just staring at me.

Ryan: Mind you, the wax hand actually has a glass eye in the middle of it.

I don’t get freaked out about this stuff, personally. If I could get a spirit to manifest itself, I’d probably be a bit wealthier of a human being, cuz I could just charge tickets to come to my house.

Have you ever had any intense reactions from people at the market?

Ryan: Yeah, definitely. A lot of people avoid certain tables. I noticed it’s mostly taxidermy, that people are just so freaked out by it. Or we’ve had people that sort of wandered in from the street and bought a ticket only to go through the market for about two minutes. They are like, what the living hell?! No, that’s not a fake skull.

But for the most part, I think that’s only happened like a handful of times in seven years. Mostly people came to these events because they really wanted to spend time with the vendors and hang out with people.

You two seem to be kindred spirits. How did you meet — and realize you share this affinity for the bizarre?

Ryan: I lived in Brooklyn, and Regina was interested in a skull that I was parting with at the time. It led to meeting up in person because we live close. And, you know, the rest is kind of history. We said, I love you on the third date and basically started working together a year later, doing what we do now.

Regina: Yeah, and I didn’t really know what I was getting into. It was way more intense when I found myself actually entering this world. You know, I came from high fashion luxury. I was working at Agent Provocateur on Madison Avenue. So by day I’m selling lingerie and kimonos; by night I’m learning how to disarticulate a skeleton.

Two years later, I found myself working full time with Ryan. I left my 15-year fashion career to pretty much manage Ryan and then create all these markets.

Ryan: Yeah, Regina is actually the one that started the flea market. I kind of came along for the ride. I think I was more hesitant at the beginning than she was.

Wooden painted torso and head on stand with cabinet of skulls in background at the home of Ryan and Regina Cohn

The couple collects santos figures like this one-armed articulated 18th century cage doll with glass eyes.

So what’s the best part of your job? 

Ryan: The fact that it never really feels like a job. I mean, obviously there are always deadlines. And we are always very busy, considering we have no kids. We never have time to do anything because we always have our hands full with this, that or the other thing. But we truly do care about our community of people. And that’s the best part about it.

Regina: I don’t have to do the market — I do it because I feel like now the vendors rely on me to do it. That’s how they’ve really launched their businesses on another level. So that’s the fun part of what we do, the Oddities Flea Market. There’s just so much more to our daily life — like we’re writing a book right now.

I was going to ask about your future plans. Tell me about this book.

Ryan: The book I think is gonna probably launch in late 2024. We’re working with Chronicle. It’s going in the direction of telling the tale of what purchasing collections is like, our two different points of views. And then what we did with the collection. 

There are other interesting adventures that we’ve been on. Because when you’re doing this stuff all the time, you sort of take it for granted. You go, oh, yeah, we just bought a museum. And yeah, that’s really fun. But we do it so frequently that it almost doesn’t seem terribly interesting after a while. But when we tell the story, people are always intrigued and have a lot of questions. And I think the book came as a result of that.

What about your art, Ryan?

Ryan: I actually have a gallery show coming up in November in Seattle at Roq La Rue Gallery. 

Because we travel so frequently, we tend to be pretty busy. I don’t get to work on my art as frequently as I used to. But I do try to be selective. I usually feature a piece or two a year in a show.

Most of the work that I do these days is based on antiques. So for instance, at this upcoming show, I’m working with 18th century saint statues that I’m articulating. And so they’re sort of a mixture of the earlier pieces that I did with osteological specimens but using antique wood, genuine pieces that were purchased from Italy and other places that I traveled to.

Disarticulated skulls in artwork by Ryan Matthew Cohn

One of Ryan's Beauchêne exploded skulls

I know you’ve worked with skulls and broken them apart.

That’s something that I still do on occasion. But like I said, I’m very selective at this point in my career. I do as much of that stuff as I can. But it gets very, very time consuming and requires a ton of patience. 

Oddities Flea Market: A Bizarre Bazaar of Unforgettable Finds

Regina and Ryan Cohn’s warped brainchild is a fantastic journey of curious collectibles.

Shelves with small glass containers of bones and animal skulls at Oddities Flea Market

The Oddities Flea Market is filled with items to start your own cabinet of curiosities.

When I asked Wally about attending the Oddities Flea Market, an event that brings together vendors from all over the country to sell their unusual wares, his answer was a resounding yes. (Actually, he probably looked at me and said, “Uh, duh.”)

We knew we were kindred spirits when we met — but before Wally, I identified as a minimalist. He’s a maximalist and loves collecting things. Turns out that when a minimalist moves in with a maximalist, you end up with just a little bit more stuff. I decided to embrace the aesthetic and figure out ways to creatively curate vignettes. Eventually, I succumbed and became a maximalist, too. 

Our burgeoning collection of oddities consists of a human skull named Malachi that’s supposedly a World War II trophy, a taxidermied squirrel with an Elizabethan lace collar, a two-headed African fetish figure, or nkondi, stuck full of nails, and a mummified llama fetus our friend Hugo picked up for Wally in Ecuador — to name just a few. 

When it came to the fair, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I knew that local chef Halee Raff of Hardbitten would be there with her elevated and colorful riff on Pop-Tarts, as well as Woolly Mammoth, one of our favorite shops in the Andersonville neighborhood, but other than that I wasn’t sure what we’d find. 

Allison Fretheim Ceramics booth at the Oddities Flea Market in Chicago

Vendors from around the country have booths at the market.

Embracing the Strange: The Birth of the Oddities Flea Market

The Oddities Flea Market was founded by Regina and Ryan Cohn about six years ago. Ryan was well-versed in buying and collecting antiques and oddities while Regina was making a name for herself in fashion. They combined their passions into a traveling emporium that celebrates the weird and wonderful. 

Their first market launched in 2017 and introduced the concept of oddity collecting to the general public at the now-shuttered Brooklyn Bazaar. Since then, the Cohns have expanded to additional markets in Los Angeles and Chicago. “It’s only the second time we’ve been to Chicago,” Ryan told us. “So it was a nice reintroduction.”

Doll parts with flowers and bugs and ephemera from Sideshow Gallery's booth at the Oddities Flea Market

I am doll parts: some of the creepy-cute creations from Sideshow Gallery

This year the Chicago market was held over two days in April at Morgan Manufacturing. The red brick building predates the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 and acts as an industrial chic event space in the hip West Loop neighborhood. 

We weren’t alone in our curiosity for curiosities. When we arrived at 11 a.m. for VIP early access, there was already a small queue forming. Some lucky attendees had planned ahead and signed up to take a cat skeleton articulation class taught by Ryan. By the time we had gotten our tickets, the workshop was sold out. Next time. Maybe. 

Container of four death masks at the Wooly Mammoth booth at the Oddities Flea Market

Death masks on display from Wooly Mammoth

Not for the Faint of Heart: Entering the Fair

After checking in, we passed a booth which featured a selection of T-shirts and totes for sale (black, of course). We took a closer look and noticed that the screen-printed images were of Ryan’s personal work — Beauchêne, also known as the art of the exploded human skull.

The soundtrack for the event was provided by Dead Animal Assembly Plant, spinning songs near the entrance, with a backdrop of projections of creepy vintage cartoons. 

Dead Animal Assembly Plant DJs spin records with a large projection of classic cartoons above on white curtains

Spooky and silly classic cartoons played above DJs from Dead Animal Assembly Plant.

Wally and I couldn’t help but salivate as we passed by the selection of Hardbitten’s delectable baked goods. Nearby, the sophisticated cocktail bar offered a variety of specialty drinks, each with an intriguing name: Memento Mori, Sideshow, the Veneration, Wunderkammer. No judging, but it was a bit early for us to imbibe. If you were seeking a caffeine fix, Spiritus Coffee from Lombard, Illinois was the place to go.

Plates stacked with Hardbitten bakery's pop-tarts at Oddities Flea Market

A seclection of Hardbitten’s treats, including their riffs on Pop-Tarts

We wandered through the market, discovering an impressive variety of wondrous wares: natural history specimens, taxidermy (both artistic and traditional), creative jewelry and a few truly macabre specimens. Here are a few of our favorites. 

Young woman in black dress posing in front of large camera and light for Blkk Hand tintype photo

A woman poses for her tintype photo from Blkk Hand.

A Handful of Shadows: Blkk Hand

St. Paul-based photographer Carla Alexandra Rodriguez uses an old-school process known as wet-plate collodion to create eerily beautiful tintype portraits. This method, which dates back to the 1850s, requires precise chemistry, accurate timing and a classic large-format camera. 

Silver nitrate is used in the processing of tinplate photography and is a highly reactive chemical that can cause skin to turn black if it’s not handled properly. Her studio, Blkk Hand takes its name from this phenomenon — and is why Carla always wears gloves when working. 

Tintype photo of long-haired couple being developed by Blkk Hand photography

Nora Past, seen in a developing tintype photo, assisted at the booth.

How’s it work? The process begins with coating a metal plate with a collodion solution that contains a mixture of alcohol, ether and silver nitrate. Each plate is exposed to light in the camera, which converts the silver nitrate to silver metal. 

This challenging and time-consuming method produces incredibly detailed images with an ethereal quality, capturing the beauty of a moment in a way that no other type of photography can.

Selection of artistic curious from Momento Mori at the Oddities Flea Market

Memento Mori Los Angeles co-sponsored the flea market.

Death Becomes Them: Memento Mori Los Angeles

Our favorite booth at the flea market belonged to Memento Mori Los Angeles, run by Brad and Deidre Hartman, a Cali-based duo who create beautiful and macabre works of art. Their pieces are a reminder of the inevitability of death, while also celebrating the beauty of life.

Among their fascinating objects were skulls, insects, crystals, jewelry, and an assortment of devotional candles featuring musical artists like Siouxsie Sioux and Nick Cave. We were mesmerized at the offerings, including a riff on the infamous Fiji mermaid hoax, a glass cloche containing human teeth and a basket filled with supple leathered purses made from genuine cane toads. I was skeptical at first when I picked one up to examine it — but it was definitely real. Don’t feel too bad, though. These amphibians were originally introduced as a means of pest control, but ended up becoming an invasive species. So now, instead of eating cane beetles, they’re just hanging out as purses and looking cute. I suppose there are worse fates. 

Replica of the Fiji mermaid and other oddities on table at flea market

A replica of the Fiji mermaid, a Witchling chick and other artistic takes on taxidermy from Memento Mori Los Angeles

I was particularly drawn to their Witchlings, yellow ducklings wearing tiny witch hats, as well as a two-headed duckling called Double Trouble. Brad and Deidre’s work is a reminder to live life to the fullest and to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us, even in death.

Odds and Ends booth of fake taxidermied heads of animals on plates at the Oddities Flea Market

Playful fake taxidermied heads on display at the Odds and Ends booth

Faux Real: Odds and Ends 

We stopped by Odds and Ends, featuring the work of Atlanta-based Chloë Grass, who creates quirky faux taxidermy trophies and other oddities. She studied at the Arts University Bournemouth in the U.K., where she honed her skills in prosthetics sculpting and special effects makeup.

I loved her double-headed lamb, which was both cute and creepy. (I’m realizing I have a thing for two-headed creatures.) It was definitely a conversation starter, and I couldn’t help but smile when I saw it. Chloë’s creations reflect my favorite type of art: whimsical and a little bit weird.

Container filled with vintage glass eyes

A selection of vintage fake eyes at Eyeba’s booth

I Only Have Eyes for You: Eyeba

We were blown away by Brooklyn-based jeweler Amanda Maer Huan’s booth at the flea market, Eyeba. She takes antique prosthetic eyes and sets them in sterling silver to create rings, pendants and other fine jewelry.

As we browsed her wares, Amanda gave us a brief education on the myth of the round glass eye. While the visible portion of the prosthesis appears round, the part that sits within the eye socket is actually curved like a pasta shell. They’re custom-made to match the size and color of the wearer’s functioning eye. 

Container of silver rings with fake eyes in them from Eyeba

Windows to your soul? Amazing rings from Eyeba

The rings were hypnotic. I had to literally drag Wally away.

Deadskull Curio booth at the Oddities Flea Market, with skulls, bottles, masks and other macabre items

Deadskull Curio had the most macabre offerings at the market.

A Portal to Another World: Deadskull Curio 

Deadskull Curio was the most global booth at the Oddities Flea Market. It had everything from hand-carved wood masks to antique Asian marionette puppets to Tibetan kapala skull cups. They even had black and white morgue and crime scene photos from the 1960s, vertebrae and a horrific preserved cat’s head in a jar of formaldehyde.

Photo of dead woman in her coffin from the 1960s

The collection of death photos had a warning

The booth is owned by Paul Abrahamian, who, randomly, competed in two seasons of Big Brother. He was a cool guy who was obviously passionate about his collection. Items were flying off the shelves as we were looking at them — but we decided to pass on the cat’s head specimen. It would have been like having a pet cemetery in our living room, and we’re not sure our cat Bowzer would have appreciated it.

Teacup reading "Syphilitic" from Miss Havisham's Curiosities

The saucy teacups from Miss Havisham’s Curiosities were inspired by the owner’s cheeky grandmother.

Steeped in Humor: Miss Havisham’s Curiosities 

Miss Havisham's Curiosities is a line of insult teacups created by Melissa Johnson. The idea was inspired by two sources: the jilted bride trapped in time in Charles Dickens’ novel Great Expectations, and Melissa’s grandmother, who expressed herself by writing offensive things on broken or chipped teacups with nail polish and then selling them at her antique shop.

On the outside, these teacups are proper, often vintage, china. But on the inside, they’re hiding naughty surprises: cheeky insults written in cursive:  “Syphilitic,” “No one likes you!” and “Not today, Satan!” The teacups are the perfect way to spill the tea and say what you really mean…without actually having to say it.

Artwork by Katie Gamb showing girl in ghost costume standing in forest of poison plants

Hidden in the Poison Forest, 2021

We were drawn to Katie Gamb’s artwork because of its twee yet sinister quality.

Sugar and Spice, But Not Everything Nice: Katie Gamb 

Katie Gamb is a Milwaukee-based artist who creates whimsical and macabre worlds in her illustrations. Her work is a love letter to a childhood spent lost in books, where animals, humans and monsters like skeletons all live together in a world of wonder. As Wally and I looked at her work, I turned to him and said, “They’re adorable at first glance — but they get a little creepy when you look closer.”

“That’s exactly what I go for,” Katie said, smiling at us.

Artwork by Katie Gamb showing cute skeleton surrounded by plants and birds, including one in its ribcage

My Heart’s Still Beating, 2019

Like much of the art we appreciate, Gamb’s works tread the line between creepy and cute.

One piece depicted a bird fluttering within the rib cage of a skeleton, while another showed a girl dressed as a ghost in a forest of poisonous plants. Katie’s imagination is a portal to a strange and wondrous world, where anything is possible. I regret not circling back to purchase a sticker featuring a sad cat playing an accordion with a feather sticking out of its mouth.

Katie’s work reminds us that the world isn’t always as it seems. There’s beauty in the darkness.

Artwork by Feral Femme Rachaela DiRosaria of freak show-themed wooden boxes at the Oddities Flea Market

Feral Femme Art’s booth evoked a freakshow from the past with interactive artworks.

Step Right Up, Folks: Feral Femme Art

We ended the show at the Feral Femme Art booth, with a conversation with Rachaela DiRosaria, a New Orleans-based folk artist who creates assemblages that evoke the nostalgia of Depression-era circus and sideshow advertising. Their hand-painted figures and moveable parts bring these sideshow performers and circus freaks to life. 

Rachaela DiRosaria and Zach Wager from Dead Animal Assembly Plant at the Oddities Flea Market

Artist Rachaela DiRosaria posing with Zach Wager, who spun records at the market.

Feral Femme art of woman suspended over bed of nails with "Inveterate" at the top

Inveterate

Feral Femme art showing angry clown with open mouth

Funhouse

Feral Femme art showing tattooed woman

The Tattooed Woman

Rachaela’s work is infused with a dark humor that’s both playful and unsettling — an interactive stagecraft of delight.

Two-headed duckling and blue butterflies in cloches at Memento Mori's booth at the Oddities Flea Market

Double Trouble has found a new home amid the other oddities chez Duke and Wally.

After making our way through the different vendors, I turned to Wally and said, “I’d like to go back and get Double Trouble. Are you cool with that?” To which Wally replied, “Obvi.” 

Exploring the Oddities Flea Market was a quirky adventure that appealed to our inner freaks, and we’re glad we had the chance to attend. 

The next iteration will be held at the Globe Theatre in LA on October 7, 2023 — a perfect day, in my humble opinion, as it’s also my birthday.  –Duke

Crazy, Cartoonish, Controversial: The Art of Mu Pan

A Q&A with the avant-garde artist who creates elaborate hellscapes of violence and monsters and has been featured in the horror film Midsommar. 

Mu Pan artwork showing a naked woman surrounded by dead fish, with monkeys and human-headed crows eating sushi off her

Me Like Sushi by Mu Pan, 2015

Monkeys and human-headed crows eating sushi off a screaming woman. A multi-armed Christ shooting machine guns. A yak-headed samurai slicing a cowboy in half. Countless battles between bizarre beasts. Oh, and a creepy mural that foreshadows the dread to come in the horror flick Midsommar

Every monster I draw is actually a self-portrait. 
— Mu Pan, American Fried Rice 

Looking at the scope of his elaborate artworks, you notice certain themes: Mu Pan holds a cynical and misanthropic view of human nature and society. His paintings are used to express his anger and frustration with the issues he cares about, such as racism, colonialism, U.S. politics and pop culture.

Yes, if there’s one thing the artist Mu Pan isn’t afraid to be, it’s provocative.

Mu Pan’s epic-scale nightmares depict violence, gore, sex and, yes, humor. His art is like if Hieronymus Bosch and Henry Darger had a half-aborted fetus. 

Many beasts fight, including rabbits, foxes and tigers in elaborate greenish artwork by Mu Pan

Rabbits by Mu Pan, 2020

He challenges viewers to confront their own prejudices and to question the narratives they’ve been told.

“Drawing and painting are for me the most obvious ways to claim justice,” Mu Pan says in his book American Fried Rice. “I use creation as a pretext to highlight everything I dislike such as violence, conflict or lies.”

When Duke and I saw Mu Pan’s work, it was love at first sight. 

The artist Mu Pan works on a large, intricate illustration

The artist at work

A Brief Bio of Mu Pan

The artist known as Mu Pan was born in Taichung City, Taiwan in 1976. He grew up there and emigrated to the United States with his parents in 1997. He studied at the School of Visual Arts in New York City, where he obtained a bachelor’s degree in illustration in 2001 and a master’s in illustration as visual essay in 2007. He lives and works in Brooklyn.

“Now I’m just bitter,” Mu Pan says in American Fried Rice. “I hate everybody equally. I’m not American, but I’m also not Chinese anymore. I’m glad I have both and I don’t have both.”

Mu Pan artwork showing a humanoid parsnip giving birth by other root veggies with legs

From the Compendium of Materia MUdica by Mu Pan, 2020

We were intrigued. So we reached out to Mu Pan to see if he’d answer some of our questions. To our surprise and delight, he obliged us. 

Some of his responses are head-scratchers — but that’s part of why we’re so fascinated with him. –Wally

Artwork by Mu Pan showing a naval battle with gold dragons and multi-headed and -armed flaming warrior dueling in the sky

Detail from The Loyal Retainers Part VI: South China Sea, 2016

Q&A With Mu Pan

What influences your artwork? 

Ancient art — the less sophisticated the better. Anything that has no Western influence. 

I used to be so into Japanese woodblock prints, but now I don’t feel anything for them anymore.

I listen to audiobooks while I work. 

When I was younger, I was influenced a lot by Louis Cha. Now I’m more into Mo Yan. Most images I make are stolen from books. 

I also get influenced by Hong Kong and Japanese cinema from the ’80s and ’90s.

Black whale lies dying, with a toxic green explosion blowing away monkeys in the center of its body, surrounded  by naked hunters in boats with machine guns

Whale Explosion by Mu Pan, 2018

What artists do you love? 

I don’t love any living artists. I kinda hate them. Cuz they all make much more money than me and I don’t think my talent is less than theirs. They are just businesspeople. I can tell you I hate Murakami the most. And yes, I said that.

Also, I hate their fans to like my work. 

My favorite dead artist is Henry Darger. When I get frustrated and depressed, I think of him, then I can keep going on.

Artwork by Mu Pan showing bird with long necks and women's heads while harpy gives birth to flaming spotted eggs

Momlego Egg by Mu Pan, 2023

What part does folklore play in your art?

I am more into history than folklore. 

Artwork by Mu Pan showing human-headed dinosaurs chasing after naked women while giant dino stomps down

Mu Pan’s Dinoasshole Chapter 1 by Mu Pan, 2016

There’s a violence to your art but also a playfulness. Can you talk about that?

My violence is cartoon. I am a very peaceful person indeed. I just have too much anger. And when I am angry at someone or something, I just purely wish the person would die in the most painful way.

And I hate being pretentious. I don’t believe that there is anyone in this world who doesn’t enjoy vengeance and violence. Our history is made of that, and even the Bible is full of violence.

I see that being fake and nice is worse than violence, and I still believe that violence is the ultimate method used to solve problems. Just look at the U.S.  government — they rely on violence and power. And they are pretentious as hell.

Mu Pan’s studio. Even though there are two works in progress, he told us he can only work on one at a time.

Tell us about your process. 

It really depends on how I feel. I don’t like to do small pieces, cuz I like to show off my strength that others don’t have — especially doing tiny figures on a big scale. I like to do things that people are not willing to, and I will not be submissive to anyone. You can call that stupidity, and I admit that I am stupid. 

Each piece takes a long time to make, because I don’t prepare — neither do I like to make any sketches. Sketches are for products, illustrations or to feed a dumb audience. I draw as I think, and I often erase everything I did the day before.

Life is too short. Being myself is more important than making others happy.

Golden Chinese woman in traditional garb, with smaller man on her shoulder and white Pekinese dog in her lap on giant frog with gray human head and military garb in this artwork by Mu Pan

From the series Shit History of China by Mu Pan, 2010

You were born in Taiwan and identify as Chinese. How does your heritage influence your worldview?

I am Chinese because my father is Chinese, and so was his father and his father before him.

My grandfathers fought the Japanese, and we were never colonized. 

If you ask Bruce Lee if he is Chinese, he would say yes for sure — even though he was born in San Francisco and raised in Hong Kong. 

I don’t give a shit about Western ideology. 

Artwork by Mu Pan featuring a variety of strange creatures, some with multiple heads, including birds, boars and bears against a red background

Be There Soon by Mu Pan, 2023

When did you first get into drawing? 

Since the first time I could make a mark on a piece of paper with a pencil.

Mu Pan created the ominous mural featured in the movie Midsommar.

Tell us about your collaboration with Ari Aster, director of Midsommar. 

Ari is a cool guy. I met him when he asked me to make the opening image for Midsommar. He is very busy and I don’t get to talk to him much. But we have been friends ever since then.

I asked him for a favor to write the forward of my book.

Improve Your Spanish With These 32 Fun Animal Idioms

From cats and dogs to bugs and birds, discover the fascinating world of Spanish animal expressions. 

Male lion sleeping on a bed

Are you a lion in bed? Have you become a seal and could stand to lose a few pounds? Maybe you’re a dead mosquito who keeps everyone guessing. The age of the turkey is always an awkward time. Just remember, no one likes a toad!

Here are some wild Spanish expressions involving animals. And if you shit the fly, don’t worry! –Wally

Closeup of fly on dirty surface

Buggin’ Out

Cagar la mosca

What it translates to: To shit the fly

What it means: To make a small mistake

Ser un bicho

What it translates to: To be a bug

What it means: To be a strange or eccentric person

Ser una mosquita muerta

What it translates to: To be a dead mosquito

What it means: To be a person who seems innocent or harmless but is actually cunning or deceitful

Tener malas pulgas

What it translates to: To have bad fleas

What it means: To be irritable or have a bad temper

Boxer dog rearing up as tiger striped cat hisses at it by concrete wall outside

Pet Sounds

Dar gato por liebre

What it translates to: To give a cat instead of a hare

What it means: To deceive someone by substituting one thing for another

Dormir como un lirón

What it translates to: To sleep like a dormouse

What it means: To sleep deeply

Estar como el perro y el gato

What it translates to: To be like the dog and the cat

What it means: To be in a constant state of conflict

Llevarse como el perro y el gato

What it translates to: To get along like the dog and the cat

What it means: To have a hostile relationship

Ser un perro viejo

What it translates to: To be an old dog

What it means: To be an experienced or wise person

Ser un ratón de biblioteca

What it translates to: To be a library mouse

What it means: To be a person who spends a lot of time studying or reading

Tener un humor de perros

What it translates to: To have a dog’s humor

What it means: To be in a bad mood

Sad eyed whitish seal on the sand

All Wet

Estar como una foca

What it translates to: To be like a seal

What it means: To be overweight or to have gained a lot of weight


Ser un pez gordo

What it translates to: To be a fat fish

What it means: To be an important or influential person


Ser un sapo

What it translates to: To be a toad

What it means: To be a snitch or a tattletale

Closeup of blue head and neck of  male peacock with its tail feathers spread out with aqua and orange eye designs

Bird-Brained

Estar en la edad del pavo

What it translates to: To be in the age of the turkey

What it means: To be a teenager and going through a difficult or awkward phase


Ser un búho

What it translates to: To be an owl

What it means: To be a night owl, someone who stays up late


Ser un loro

What it translates to: To be a parrot

What it means: To be someone who talks a lot or repeats what others say


Ser un pavo real

What it translates to: To be a peacock

What it means: To be arrogant or to show off


Tener ojos de águila

What it translates to: To have eagle eyes

What it means: To have great vision or to be very observant


Tener pájaros en la cabeza

What it translates to: To have birds in your head

What it means: To be absent-minded (bird-brained) or to have unrealistic ideas

Goat with black and copper colored marking and yellow ear tags screaming as head peeks around a wall

Animal Farm

Estar como una cabra

What it translates to: To be like a goat

What it means: To act crazy

Ponerse como un burro

What it translates to: To become like a donkey

What it means: To become very angry

 

Ser un burro

What it translates to: To be a donkey

What it means: To be stubborn or slow-witted

Ser un cabrón

What it translates to: To be a big goat

What it means: Depending on the context, it can be used to describe a jerk or a dumbass


Ser un gallina

What it translates to:  To be a chicken

What it means: To be a chicken, a coward

Closeup of tiger head looking at the camera

In the Wild

Ser un león en la cama

What it translates to: To be a lion in bed

What it means: To be good in bed

Ser un lince

What it translates to: To be a lynx

What it means: To be very perceptive or to have a sharp mind

Ser un ratón de campo

What it translates to: To be a field mouse

What it means: To be shy or introverted

Ser un tigre

What it translates to: To be a tiger

What it means: To be very strong, brave or skillful

Ser una víbora

What it translates to: To be a viper

What it means: To be a malicious or treacherous person

Ser un zorro

What it translates to: To be a fox

What it means: To be sly or cunning

Tener memoria de elefante

What it translates to: To have an elephant’s memory

What it means: To have a great memory


Woman holding a poop emoji in front of her face

From Starter to Star: How Boulenc Became the Must-Visit Café in Oaxaca

Say bonjour to a taste of France at the hottest bakery and breakfast spot in Oaxaca City, Mexico.

Dramatic light fixture over the open-air dining area of Boulenc cafe in Oaxaca, Mexico

The open-air dining area of Boulenc has a bohemian vibe and an eye-catching pendant.

For Wally and me, the best places are often the ones shared among friends. This is how we came to make a pilgrimage to Boulenc, after one of my coworkers stayed at the attached hotel for a couple of days and raved about the food and atmosphere. 

However, we didn’t realize how easy it is to pass by.  

Let’s talk about the real reason you go to Boulenc: the food and drink, which is beautifully presented and delicious.

They definitely serve up one of the best breakfasts in town. 

Somehow we found ourselves getting lost in Oaxaca de Juárez, Mexico more often than we typically have in other cities. Centro, the “downtown” of this laidback town, has a dense and irregular network of streets that more than occasionally change names. 

Rustic blue building with posters covering it that's the exterior of Boulenc cafe

The unassuming façade of Boulenc is easy to pass by.

For this reason, we walked past the faded blue façade on Calle Porfirio Díaz a couple of times before realizing it was Boulenc. If the metal grille doors covered with flyers and a chalkboard that lead to the main dining patio happen to be closed, you’d never know you’ve reached one of the culinary hotspots of Oaxaca. 

However, we were determined — and by our third day in the enchanting city, we arrived early and soon found ourselves having breakfast there. Boulenc is attached to and part of the panadería, or bakery, that brought the artisanal bread movement to Oaxaca nearly a decade ago. 

Two men in face masks behind the counter with display cases filled with pastries and a wall with blackboard menus and shelves with bread loaves, with dark-haired woman customer seen from behind

Stop into the bakery next door for some delicious pastries and artisanal breads.

Juan Pablo: The Pope of Pastries

But let’s start at the beginning. The bakery’s mastermind and co-founder, Juan Pablo Hernández aka “Papa,” first took an interest in teaching himself how to bake bread, specifically sourdough, while working at a friend’s restaurant. 

No one knows for certain how Papa acquired his nickname. However, Boulenc’s co-owner Bernardo Dávila has a theory. They’ve been friends since their teens, and Juan Pablo has had the moniker since he was very young. Bernardo thinks that it could be because Juan Pablo attended a Catholic school, and at the time, the name of the sitting pope was John Paul II aka Juan Pablo. In Spanish, the word for Pope is Papa — not to be mistaken with Papá, which means Dad. 

Since his friend’s restaurant was only open for lunch and dinner, Juan Pablo asked if he could use the kitchen before it opened for the day to experiment and learn to make different types of non-traditional loaves, including the bread that started it all, sourdough. 

Server in apron and face mask, orange wall and tables and chairs at Boulenc restaurant seen through an archway with plants seen through archway

Great food, great service and a charming boho chic vibe to boot

Starting From Scratch: The Rise Of Boulenc

In January 2014, Juan Pablo invited his good friends Bernardo and Daniel López to Oaxaca de Juárez to convince them that it was the right time to open a bakery. He had been selling his artisan bread as a side hustle. He had created a logo and landed on Boulenc, which comes from the word for bread maker in the Picard dialect of France. 

“We came to Oaxaca right before the boom,” Bernardo recalls. “We knew that it had to be located in Centro, because that’s where all the restaurants and tourists are.” 

The trio found a suitable location that was formally an art gallery space. It was within their budget — and became the first incarnation of Boulenc. It didn’t have much, Bernardo says, but it did have three capable co-owners who were up for the challenge. 

Asian woman looks at phone by black mural of silhouettes at Boulenc cafe in Oaxaca City

Boulenc moved to a larger space and now has a boutique hotel attached (and some cool murals in the restaurant).

Their instincts had proven right. The bakery was quite popular and quickly found devotees. About two years later, one of their loyal customers asked if they might be interested in relocating to the colonial-era home across the street at Calle Porfirio Díaz 207.

“It’s a huge house,” Bernardo says. “When we went to check it out, there were just three people living there with three massive Neapolitan mastiff dogs. It was a little weird but it was also a good deal, so we said yes.” 

So, in 2016 Boulenc relocated and went from being a cafeteria counter limited to seven customers to a full-blown restaurant that can accommodate up to 25 people. 

Croissant sandwich with turkey and egg, pancakes topped with fruit and iced coffee on table at Boulenc cafe in Oaxaca

Juan Pablo is known for his amazing pastries and breads.

A Passion for Baking and Local Ingredients 

Juan Pablo is known for his passion for baking and his use of fresh, regional ingredients. He sources his flour from a nearby mill in Nochixtlan, and fruits, nuts and other ingredients from small local producers. 

“I believe in using natural, healthy ingredients and making everything from scratch,” Juan Pablo told Plate magazine. “I’m very particular about the ingredients that I use, and I like to know where they come from.”

Boulenc has something for everyone, and serves breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, pizzas and a variety of beverages too long to list here. If you just want to grab something to go, there are European-style artisan breads, delectable pastries and coffee you can get at the bakery counter next door to the restaurant. 

White curtains and corrugated metal on the small bar at Boulenc, with bamboo screen on one side and stairwell on the other

The bar at Boulenc has a cool wire sculpture created by the owners’ friends at Máscaras de Alambre.  

A Fresh Start

Boulenc expanded the business by renovating and adding Boulenc Bed and Bread, a seven-room boutique hotel. 

Paulina García, another co-owner of Boulenc, moved from Saltillo, Mexico and began making jams and preserves in the kitchen above the restaurant patio before experimenting with fermented foods. Eventually she and Daniel opened Suculenta, a provisions store next door to the café. 

Both projects were completed and opened to the public in 2020. 

Despite their success, the founders of Boulenc are constantly trying out new recipes and techniques. 

“I’m always experimenting and trying new things,” Juan Pablo told the Oaxaca Times. “I’m constantly looking for ways to improve and refine our recipes, and to create new flavors that people will love.” 

Most recently, the founders organized and attended a five-day cheesemaking workshop with David Asher from the Black Sheep School of Cheesemaking at a ranch outside of Oaxaca de Juárez. And knowing them, they’ll find a way to introduce some incredible homemade cheeses in the future. 

Top down shot of breakfast dishes on table, including croissant and fruit pancakes

Be sure to stop into Boulenc at least once during your time in Oaxaca — you won’t be disappointed!

Breakfast at Boulenc 

Over the seven days that Wally and I stayed in Oaxaca, we came to Boulenc twice, and that’s high praise since they had tough competition from our hotel’s in-house coffeeshop, Muss Café

Boulenc’s dining room proper is just beyond the doors I mentioned earlier. Inside is a tranquil, open-air courtyard with rustic wooden tables and chairs.  

The walls of the interior courtyard reminded me of another excellent restaurant we dined at in Fez, Morocco called the Ruined Garden, which occupied part of a former dar, or traditional Moroccan home. 

But let’s talk about the real reason you’re here: the food and drink, which is beautifully presented and delicious. They definitely serve up one of the best breakfasts in town. 

During our first visit, I ordered a velvety cold brew that was so good I didn’t need to add milk. Wally had an iced latte, and since he ordered a second one, I know that he enjoyed his drink, too. 

For breakfast, I got a stack of warm, fluffy pancakes made with rice, oat and almond flour served with bananas, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries and figs. This was accompanied by maple syrup served out of a copita, a small gourd cup, and housemade granola. Wally had the turkey ham and cheese croissant with a fried egg, chipotle mayonnaise and fresh tomato. Not traditional Mexican fare, but sometimes when you travel, you crave something continental. 

Decaying wall and wood table and chairs with man in cowboy hat at Boulenc cafe in Oaxaca

There’s not a lot of seating, and Boulenc is a popular spot, so be sure to get there early.

A word of advice if you’re interested in having breakfast at Boulenc: Arrive early to avoid waiting in line. It’s a popular spot, and Wally and I made sure to arrive just before 8:30 a.m, when the restaurant opened. We were able to get right in. Breakfast is served until 1 p.m.

The restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and attentive, which made for a wonderful experience. And while we certainly didn’t feel rushed, there was already a line forming when we left at 9:15. 

Exterior of Suculenta Tienda, with chipping aqua paint and bars over a window with shop name and what they carry

To one side of the restaurant is the bakery; on the other is Suculenta, an adorable provision shop.

After breakfast, we popped into Suculenta. You’ll find delicious jarred foods, cheeses, natural wines, organic fruits, vegetables and more. 

We bought mustard with capers, mango and pineapple marmalade, a cocoa peanut butter and jabón de cacao (an exfoliating soap with cacao nibs from Mamá Pacha Chocolate). 

Shelves with jars of dried peas, ketchup and other condiments, and ceramic mushrooms, carrot and boy in a rabbit mask

Suculenta offers a selection of homemade condiments and other items, all charmingly packaged.

Lightwood case stocked with bottles of wines at Suculenta Tienda in Oaxaca

A variety of booze is on offer at the tienda, with a focus on natural wines.

If the store’s not open, you can also purchase a variety of their goods at the bakery counter. 

The verdict: You might have to keep your eyes peeled to find it, but be sure to add this to your Oaxaca itinerary. And should you have to join the queue, know that it’s worth waiting for. –Duke

Green glasses and glass water bottles with out-of-focus server at Boulenc cafe in Oaxaca

Boulenc 

Calle Porfirio Díaz 207
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
México

 

Beltane: Get Fired Up for the Wiccan Fertility Festival

The history of Beltane, from bonfires to maypoles. Plus, how to perform a Wiccan Beltane ritual and cast a witch’s ladder love spell. 

Wiccans raise their hands in a circle around a giant bonfire on Beltane

Beltane might have started with the ancient peoples of Western Europe — but celebrations still take place nowadays.

Who knew that jumping over flames was the key to making babies?

The ancient Celts, that’s who. The practice was a staple of the holiday known as Beltane. 

Now a Wiccan holiday, Beltane is traditionally celebrated as a spring festival, usually on or around May 1 in the Northern Hemisphere. (You can imagine how it has influenced modern May Day celebrations.) It marks the midpoint between the spring equinox and the summer solstice, which means that it is a cross-quarter festival, falling halfway between two of the four major solar festivals of the year (the equinoxes and solstices). However, some people consider Beltane to be a summer festival, as it is often associated with the beginning of the summer season and the longer, warmer days that come with it.

Participants would jump over fires or pass through them for purification and blessings — and to increase their chance of getting knocked up. 

“The celebration of Beltane was linked to the ancient Celtic calendar, which divided the year into two halves, light and dark. Beltane was a time of transition between the two, marking the beginning of the light half of the year,” Peter Berresford Ellis writes in The Druids.

Painting of Queen Guinevere on a white horse holding branches of white flowers being led by men in green cloaks

Queen Guinevere’s Maying by John Collier, 1900

While its exact origins are shrouded in mystery, we do know that Beltane has been celebrated in one form or another for thousands of years. It’s believed to have originated as a Celtic festival to celebrate fertility and growth, which is why people would dance around a giant phallic symbol (the maypole) and leap over bonfires. Apparently, this was all very conducive to fertility. Couples would join in the fun and leap together to cement their bond. 

Silhouette of man against large bonfire for Beltane

This bonfire is too high to jump over. Many Wiccans and neopagans today prefer to jump over a candle.

From Fertility to Frivolity: The Flaming Hot History of Beltane

Bonfires are a big part of Beltane. 

Back in the day, people would light giant fires and lead their livestock through the flames to purify them from disease and ensure fertility for the coming year. (I don’t recommend trying that at home, folks.)

It wasn’t just about the animals, though. Bonfires were set ablaze for the community to celebrate the returning warmth and light of the sun. Participants would jump over the fires or pass through them for purification and blessings — and to increase their chance of getting knocked up. 

Nude neopagan woman and man laying down, with feathers cover the woman's privates and breasts, and man with gold makeup around his eyes, dark tribal markings and feathers over his groin

It’s not certain, but a man and woman might have come together sexually during the rite of Beltane in the past as way to symbolize the union of the Goddess and God.

Ritual sex might have been practiced at Beltane. 

In addition, people would maybe even indulge in a little bit of ritual hanky-panky (if you catch my drift). There’s evidence to suggest that ritual copulation may have been part of Beltane celebrations in pagan times. Some historical accounts describe Beltane as a time when couples would come together in a sacred union to symbolize the union of the Goddess and the God, or the masculine and feminine energies of the universe. 

Walpurgisnacht/Hexensabbat by Orlando Antonio, 1878

Beltane gets connected to Walpurgis Night.  

Beltane is sometimes celebrated on the same day as Walpurgis Night (Walpurgisnacht or Valborgsmässoafton), a pagan festival observed in parts of Northern Europe. The festival is named after Saint Walpurga, an 8th century Christian missionary who was believed to have fought against pagan customs and beliefs (boo, hiss). 

In Germanic folklore, Walpurgis Night was believed to be a time when witches and supernatural beings gathered on mountaintops to hold revels and celebrate the coming of spring. Bonfires were lit to ward off evil spirits, and people would dress in costumes or wear masks to avoid being recognized by the evil creatures. 

Holy well with ribbons tied to the plants all around

Around Beltane, pilgrims tie ribbons to trees when visiting this holy well at Cranfield in Northern Ireland.

On Beltane, holy wells or natural springs were visited. 

This was yet another way to celebrate the return of life and fertility to the land. Some of the customs that people performed at holy wells on Beltane were:

  • Leaving offerings of flowers or small personal items, including tying ribbons to nearby branches

  • Walking clockwise around the well while praying for good health

  • Drinking or washing with the water, which was thought to have healing properties

  • Collecting dew from nearby grass or flowers, believed to bring beauty and youthfulness

Fairy in the bows of a hawthorne tree blooming white flowers

Hawthorns are connected to the fairy realm.

The hawthorn tree, a symbol of Beltane, are portals to the fairy realm. 

Hawthorn trees are a type of thorny shrub that have white flowers in the spring. In Celtic culture, hawthorns were considered sacred and connected to the fairy realm. They were often found near holy wells or on fairy hills, where they marked the entrance to the land of fey. 

At Beltane, people would decorate hawthorn trees with ribbons and flowers as a way of making wishes or honoring the fairies. However, hawthorns were also feared, as they could bring misfortune if harmed. There was a strong taboo against cutting down a hawthorn tree or bringing its flowers into the house. 

Some legends say that if you sit under a hawthorn tree on Beltane, you might see fairies — or even be snatched away by them. 

Women in white robes with flower garlands on their heads stand in a circle holding torches joined in the middle

Beltane is the perfect time to embrace new beginnings and focus on the things you want to change.

Modern-Day Wiccan Beltane Practices: Transformation Time

Beltane is also a time to embrace new beginnings, to take a long, hard look at your life and ask, “What do I want to achieve? What do I want to change?” And then you can dance around the bonfire and hope that the pagan gods give you a little nudge in the right direction.

“Beltane is a time to celebrate the life force within us and around us. It’s a time to honor the wildness and vitality of nature, and to tap into that energy to bring about positive change in our lives,” writes Phyllis Curott in Book of Shadows

Here are some ways for modern-day Wiccans to celebrate Beltane:

Sepia vintage photo of young girls in field of flowers holding ribbons around a maypole

Less explicit than ritualized coupling, maypoles are sometimes viewed as phallic, while the ribbons represent fertility. As they twine together, it’s a mingling of masculine and feminine energies.

Create a maypole. 

You can decorate your maypole with ribbons or other symbols of the season, and dance around it with friends or family.

Cast a love spell. 

Beltane is a time when the energies of love and fertility are said to be at their strongest. Many Wiccans choose to perform love spells during this time, whether to attract a new partner or to strengthen an existing relationship. I imagine it’s also a good time to work some magic to try to get pregnant.

Perform a garden blessing. 

At Beltane, the Earth is coming back to life, and many Wiccans choose to bless their gardens or outdoor spaces at this time. You can create a simple ritual by lighting a candle and incense and reciting a blessing for the plants and creatures that call your garden home.

16th century woodcut that reads Beltane and has a witch, sun and bonfire

Welcome in warmer days, manifest love or pregnancy and work on your personal growth during a Wiccan Beltane ritual.

A Beltane Ritual

A Wiccan Beltane ritual is a way to honor the sacred union of the Goddess and the God, celebrate the fertility of nature, and express your personal goals and desires. There are many ways to perform a Beltane ritual, but here’s one example. What I love about Wicca is that you can always adapt any practices to your preferences and circumstances. 

Find a tree branch to place on your altar. 

Add ribbons, flowers, candles, incense (rose, violet or mugwort) and any other items that represent Beltane to you on your altar. You will also need a cup of a ritual beverage (such as wine or water), some bread or cake for an offering, and any spell components you want to use.

Take a ritual bath and dress yourself for Beltane. 

Baths aren’t necessary, but it’s a good way to purify yourself and get into the zone. As for your ritual outfit, bonus points for flowers in your hair and a wreath or garland around your neck. Floral patterns are always a good idea at Beltane. 

Light the candles and incense and ground yourself. 

Cast a circle starting from the south (the direction of fire). 

Chant:

By the powers of the Sky Father
The burst of wind, the shower of rain
The bolt of lightning, the clap of thunder
By the powers of the Earth Mother
The strong mountain, the fertile soil 
The rushing river, the fragrant wildflowers
May this circle be cast 
A place between the worlds
On this Beltane Sabbat
Joining the powers above
And the powers below
So mote it be.

Invoke the Goddess and God. 

Do this in whatever way feels right to you. You can use statues, candles or pictures to represent them on your altar. You can also recite a poem or prayer dedicated to them. For example:

Blessed be the Lady of Spring
Who brings life and joy to all things. 
Blessed be the Lord of Fire 
Who sparks passion and desire. 

Express your gratitude for all that you have received. 

Think about how you have grown physically, mentally, emotionally and spiritually in this season. Thank the deities for their gifts and guidance.

State your intentions for what you want to manifest in your life. 

What areas of your life need more growth, creativity or love? Write them down on ribbons. Tie the ribbons around your tree branch while saying what you want to attract into your life.

Make a witch’s ladder to bring love into your life. 

Braid three ribbons (pink, red and white). Weave in objects that symbolize love, such as rose petals, heart-shaped charms and rose quartz crystals. 

As you do, chant:

Love come near, love come fast
Love be strong, love be lasting
Love be kind, love be true 
Love be mine, I welcome you.

Hang the witch’s ladder somewhere you can see it often.

Celebrate by eating and drinking your offerings. 

Thank the Goddess and God for sharing their energy with you.

Close the circle. 

Do this in the reverse order from how you invoked them.

Say: 

The circle is open but unbroken. 
May peace and love remain within. 
Merry meet
Merry part
And merry meet again.

People dancing around a maypole in a painting of a village with a river and mountain in the distance

St. George’s Kermis With the Dance Around the Maypole by Pieter Brueghel the Younger, 1627


As if longer, warmer days weren’t enough to celebrate, Beltane’s also got pole dancing, leaping over flames, tempting fairies, casting love spells and maybe even a little outdoor sex. It’s the ultimate spring fling. –Wally


Pretty in Pink: Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel

Discover the strange history of this iconic church, the lively Jardín it overlooks and the riotous Festival of San Miguel. 

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel at twilight peeking above the trees of the Jardín in SMA

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel, an icon of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

“It’s just like the Disney Castle!” 

It’s a refrain you’ll hear often when you show pictures of the iconic church in San Miguel de Allende. Only, for my money, it’s cooler, cuz it’s pink — and I’d much rather be in Mexico than Disney World. 

The church was designed by a self-taught indigenous stonemason named Zeferino Gutiérrez, who was inspired by a postcard of a Belgian church.

Apparently, Gutiérrez had never seen a cathedral in person, so he just winged it, scratching his design in the sand with a stick. 

You’ll never tire of seeing the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel (they really need to come up with a solid nickname). And the good news is, almost every time you head out to explore the charming colonial town, you’ll find yourself passing by the church and the main square, known locally as el Jardín. 

Cobblestone street behind Parroquia San Miguel Arcangel with red, orange and yellow buildings and man sitting on front step

Behind the church is a quaint cobblestone street.

A Towering Legacy: Construction of San Miguel’s Most Famous Landmark

The exact date of construction is a matter of debate. There’s a convoluted history on the church’s website, stating that the first iteration was in 1564 — while others believe it wasn’t completed until the 1700s. The church has undergone so many renovations and additions over the years that it’s difficult to discern what the original structure looked like.

Perhaps all those renovations is why San Miguel Arcángel is a delightful mishmash of different architectural elements. The exterior features a Neo-Gothic façade that was added in the late 19th century, while the underlying structure is more Mexican Baroque. 

Couple snuzzle on bench while looking at Parroquia San Miguel Arcangel

San Miguel de Allende is for lovers.

But let’s face it: The real stars of the show are the towering spires. They’re the stuff of legend, designed by a self-taught indigenous stonemason named Zeferino Gutiérrez, who was inspired by a postcard of a Belgian church. Apparently, Gutiérrez had never seen a cathedral in person, so he just winged it, scratching his design in the sand with a stick. 

Whatever the case, the end result is magical — he created those fantastical, otherworldly spires that look like they belong in a fairytale.

Part of its undeniable charm is the fact that it’s pink. The stones used in the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel’s façade are cantera, a volcanic rock likely sourced from nearby quarries. Over time, the stones have taken on a more vibrant shade of pink, winning the hearts of visitors and locals alike.

Man in blue t-shirt and burgundy sneakers sits on side steps of Parroquia San Miguel Arcangel

Duke sits on the steps at the side of the church.

The church sort of leans to one side, which has led to various theories about how it came to be that way. Some say it was built askew on purpose to ward off evil spirits or to align with the position of the sun. Others attribute its slant to an earthquake or even the Devil himself. In reality, the tilt is likely due to the sandy soil San Miguel Arcángel was built on, which has shifted over time. This natural phenomenon is known as subsidence and is a common problem in many parts of the world.

In recent years, efforts have been made to stabilize the church and prevent further subsidence. However, the tilt remains a distinctive feature of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel and adds to its unique character and charm. Hey, it worked for that Tower of Pisa.

Parroquia San Miguel Arcangel and its neighboring building lit up at twilight

The Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel has seen some violence over the years.

The Cristero War and the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel 

The San Miguel Arcángel parish has seen some real action over the years. For one thing, it was witness to the bloody Cristero War of the 1920s. This violent conflict pitted Catholic rebels against the anti-clerical government of Mexico, with both sides fighting tooth and nail for their beliefs. San Miguel Arcángel wasn’t spared from the brutality — bullets and bombs left the church’s walls scarred and pockmarked. In addition, some of the priests of San Miguel Arcángel were killed or exiled during the conflict. 

The church was later repaired, a testament to the resilience of the locals and a symbol of Mexican history and faith.

Interior of Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel looking at pews and main altar

The interior of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel didn’t go entirely as planned.

A Work in Progress: The Interior of Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel 

While I’m utterly smitten with the whimsical exterior of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel, the interior ain’t too shabby, either. It also features a variety of architectural styles, including Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical. The high ceilings and intricate details create a sense of grandeur and awe. The main altar is adorned with gold leaf and features a statue of San Miguel, aka Saint Michael the Archangel, the church’s namesake. 

Altar to Virgin Mary holding Baby Jesus with columns tipped with gold, flowers and a female saint on either side at Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel
Side altar at Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel that's blue with Christ on the cross
Basin at Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel in front of statue of praying saint
Statue of person proposing with flowers in front of Virgin of Guadalupe at Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel

Wally thinks this would be a great place to propose to someone.

Off to the side is a smaller chapel adorned with surprisingly modern murals that look Cubist. 

Side chapel at Statue of person proposing with flowers in front of Virgin of Guadalupe at Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel with Cubist mural of indigenous Mexicans on one side and Catholic monks on the other

A chapel in the back corner of the church has a Cubist-esque mural showing indigenous Mexicans on one side and Catholic monks on the other.

As impressive as the interior is, though, it’s not quite finished — or what was first intended. In fact, the original plans for the interior were much more grandiose, but due to a lack of funding and resources, many of the ideas were never fully realized. 

Statue of Fray Juan de San Miguel comforting man in front of Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel

On the side of the church is a statue of Fray Juan de San Miguel, who founded the city and was, in turn, named for Saint Michael the Archangel.

Saintly Swordsman: The Legend of San Miguel

So who exactly is the archangel the church is named for? 

Well, with a name like Miguel, which means “Who Is Like God,” it’s not surprising that he’s the commander of the heavenly host. He’s often depicted with a sword, ready to do battle against Satan and his minions. 

San Miguel is also the patron saint of police officers and soldiers. 

Steps leading up to the Jardin, the central plaza of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Plaza Allende, commonly known as the Jardín, is the bustling center of this charming colonial town.

The Heart of San Miguel: Exploring the Jardín, the City’s Vibrant Central Park

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel overlooks the main town square, the Jardín, formally known as Plaza Allende. This lively square is the beating heart of San Miguel de Allende. If you’re looking to people-watch, hear a mariachi band, pose with the giant puppets called mojigangas or grab some street food (we had elotes one night that were delicious), this is the place to be. 

Couple dances in front of the gazebo while a band plays inside it in the town square of SMA

Dancing by the gazebo

Mariachi player plays the trumpet leaning against a post in SMA's Jardin

A mariachi trumpeter

Mariachi band dressed in white tops with black pants playing in the main square of San Miguel de Allende

Mariachi bands entertain the crowds in the plaza in front of the church.

The Jardín is situated right in the center of town, which makes it a prime location for all sorts of festivities and events. It’s flanked by the church on one side, and rows of shops and restaurants on the others, so there’s always something to see and do.

Elotes stand at night in the central square of SMA

Grab dinner at the elote stand.

Wally eating elote on the cob

Wally digs into his elote.

But the Jardín wasn’t always the lovely green space it is today. In fact, it used to be a marketplace where vendors sold everything from produce to livestock. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the town decided to convert it into a park, complete with benches, a gazebo and trees that have been trimmed into circles.

White fireworks arcing about the Statue of person proposing with flowers in front of Virgin of Guadalupe at Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel during the festival

If you can, time your trip to coincide with the Feast of San Miguel at the end of September.

Feast of San Miguel and the Crazy Castillos of the Town’s Biggest Fiesta

Duke and I happened to be in SMA during the Feast of San Miguel — but, as odd as it might sound, no one told us about it! Thank God we happened to be walking through the Jardín and noticed that they were erecting wooden scaffolds in front of the church. 

We looked at a flyer pasted to the wall that listed local events. Lo and behold, it was none other than the town’s biggest frickin’ festival! 

There was a café on the corner we’d been wanting to check out, so we popped in there and got some drinks while we waited for the festivities to begin. 

The week-long Festival of San Miguel, aka La Alborada, takes place around September 29, the saint’s feast day, usually culminating on the following weekend. 

Red and green firework burst at the top of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcangel in SMA during the Festival

The festival’s firework show was the most impressive we’ve ever seen — in part because of the gorgeous backdrop of the church spires.

And what a festival it was! A crowd gathered in front of Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel, and mariachis played their tunes. But the pièce de résistance were the castillos, those towers we had seen, rising up like giant matchstick sculptures in front of the church. 

Local craftsmen build these towering infernos, using skills and techniques that have been passed down through generations. It’s truly a sight to behold. 

Fireworks castillo with red crown, green chalice and yellow cross

The castillos are a wonder to behold.

When they’re lit, stand back — and let the sparks fly! The pyrotechnicians manning the castillos are like mad scientists, firing off bursts of firecrackers in all directions, painting the night sky above San Miguel Arcángel in a kaleidoscope of colors amid ear-splitting booms. The fireworks on the castillos emit high-pitched wails, spin like Catherine wheels, and form images and words. The whole spectacle was unlike anything we had seen before. 

Forget the drawn-out firework shows you see in the States; this was a machine-gun riot of color and explosions — the best we’ve ever seen. A huge grin was plastered on my face, and I’d turn to my neighbors, strangers united by sharing this marvel, and we’d shake our heads and laugh, unable to believe we were witnessing such magic. –Wally

Parroquia San Miguel Arcangel in the distance as seen from the Overlook

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel from el Mirador, overlooking the town of SMA

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel

Principal s/n
Zona Centro
37700 San Miguel de Allende
Guanajuato
Mexico

 

Ramadan Revealed: Radical Traditions of the Islamic Holiday

Eye-opening insights into Muslim practices, including fasting, iftar, suhoor, zakat and the Night of Power. 

Muslim women kneeling in courtyard in colorful robes at night

Ramadan: when Muslims don’t eat, drink water, smoke, have sex or doing anything bad during the day for an entire month?! Learn more about this holiday.

“Ramadan’s been interesting,” my friend living in Qatar once told me. “It’s only been two days and it’s already a country full of cranky, sweaty, dehydrated, hungry people. It’s no way to live.”

The concept of not eating, or even being allowed to drink water, during daylight hours for an entire month seems so foreign to us Westerners — and, yes, downright bonkers. It can’t be healthy, for one thing. 

Ramadan is like Lent for Catholics.

Only instead of giving up something you love, you’re giving up something you need to survive. 

You see, Ramadan is a bit like Lent for Catholics. Only instead of giving up something you love, you’re giving up something you need to survive. 

Ramadan is a time of spiritual reflection, self-discipline and community. But let’s be real — it’s also a time of intense hunger, caffeine and nicotine withdrawal, and dramatic mood swings.

But these sweeping generalizations miss the point. I didn’t have the full story of why Muslims celebrate Ramadan. So I decided to do some digging. 

Fascinating Facts About Ramadan

Ramadan is based on the lunar calendar, which means it starts 11 days earlier each year than the previous year. It takes 33 years for Ramadan to cycle back to a particular starting date. And once in a very blue moon, like in 1997, two Ramadans will fall within the same calendar year. The next time that will happen: 2033. 

The holiday began in 624 CE and commemorates the month in which the Prophet Muhammad is said to have received the first revelations of the Quran, the holy book of Islam, from none other than the angel Gabriel. 

The Angel Gabriel with the Prophet Muhammed

The angel Gabriel delivers the Quran to the Prophet Muhammed — the event celebrated during Ramadan.

The word Ramadan comes from ramida, an Arabic root that means scorching heat or dryness. And no, it’s not referring to people’s parched throats on a hot day but the fact that Ramadan originally fell during the summer season.

Fasting during Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam, which are the basic duties that every devout Muslim must follow. The other pillars are prayer, declaration of faith, charity and pilgrimage.

Some years there are more hours of fasting due to longer daylight hours. The hours of fasting also change substantially throughout the world based on the hours of daylight in various locations. 

Not everyone has to fast, though. There are some exceptions, such as children (you’re on the hook only after puberty), and those who are elderly, sick, traveling, pregnant, menstruating, breastfeeding…or all of the above. You can either make up the fasts later or feed a poor person for each day you miss.

Fasting during Ramadan isn’t just about abstaining from food and drink — you have to forgo sex, smoking, and anything else deemed indecent or excessive. Muslims also try to avoid anger, gossip and bad deeds during the month.

You might think that fasting during Ramadan would work as a crash diet. But that’s not always the case. In fact, some people actually gain weight because they overeat after breaking their fast at sunset and shortly thereafter fall into bed. 

Top down photo of Muslim family having iftar with a table full of food

Once the sun has gone down, people can break their fast with the meal called iftar.

Iftar and Suhoor: Time to Stuff Yourself Silly

Break their fast you say? Well, it’s not like people could survive not eating or drinking water for an entire month. So, once the sun has set, Muslims have a meal called iftar, which traditionally starts with dates and water, as well as other foods like soup, rice and bread. 

Hands reach into a bowl of dates to break the fast during Ramadan

Dates are the traditional food to break your fast once the sun sets during Ramadan.

Iftar is a time for celebration and indulgence. It’s a chance to gather with loved ones, share delicious food and thank Allah for the blessings of the day. 

Round plates filled with food items on the ground with Muslim men preparing for iftar during Ramadan

People prepare plates of food for iftar. It must be hell cooking delicious-smelling dishes when you haven’t eaten all day.

Muslims then catch a few Z’s before getting up before dawn to eat a meal called suhoor. It’s a delicate balance between filling up enough to last until sunset without feeling like you’re going to burst. 

Prayer in Cairo by Jean-Leon Gerome, 1865

Prayer and Charity: The Chance for Forgiveness 

During Ramadan, Muslims attend special night prayers called taraweeh at mosques. They seek to deepen their relationship with Allah and cultivate a sense of spiritual peace and tranquility.

There’s also a strong focus on helping others. Islamic teachings encourage Muslims to set aside a percentage of their accumulated wealth to donate to charity (zakat) and do good works for the neediest in their community. “The best charity is that given in Ramadan,” Muhammed said.

Muslims pray at mosque with circular light fixture during Ramadan

The Night of Power is a mysterious occurrence during Ramadan. Muslims can seek it through intense prayer at a mosque during the last 10 days of the holy month.

The Quest for the Night of Power 

One of the most important moments of Ramadan is the Night of Power, or Laylat al-Qadr. The Quran declares that it’s “better than a thousand months” (Surah Al-Qadr, 97:3). 

I don’t quite understand what the Night of Power entails; it sounds a bit like an epiphany. According to the Prophet Muhammad, it’s an opportunity to ask for forgiveness of your sins.

But the Night of Power is elusive, mysterious, intensely personal. One way to seek the Night of Power is through the practice of i’tikaf, which involves secluding yourself in a mosque for the last 10 days of Ramadan. This intense focus on prayer and contemplation increases your chances of finding the Night of Power.

Huge group of Muslims kneeling and praying in mosque with blue ceiling

Many Muslims spend more time praying during Ramadan.

Another way to seek the Night of Power is through increased acts of worship, such as reciting the Quran, performing extra prayers or giving zakat. 

Finally, Muslims can seek the Night of Power through supplication and heartfelt dua, the act of calling upon Allah. Good news: “A fasting person, upon breaking his fast, has a supplication that will not be rejected,” Muhammad said. 

Massive group of Muslims gather for the Eid al-Fitr prayer in 1978

Massive amounts of people come together to celebrate Eid al-Fitr, the end of Ramadan.

Eid Al-Fitr: A Well-Earned Celebration 

After the month of fasting, prayer and spiritual reflection, Muslims around the world come together to celebrate Eid al-Fitr, the Festival of Breaking the Fast. (It’s pronounced like Eed al-Fitter.) It’s a time of joy, feasting and giving thanks.

The day begins with the Eid prayer, followed by a sermon in which the imam reminds the community of the lessons learned during Ramadan and encourages them to continue their spiritual growth throughout the year. 

Large group of Muslims in mosque on Eid al-Fitr seen through circular light fixture

People go to a mosque on Eid al-Fitr — and after the sermon, the feast begins.

After the prayer and sermon, Muslims exchange greetings of “Eid Mubarak” and engage in acts of charity and kindness. 

Finally, Eid al-Fitr is a time of feasting and indulgence, with traditional sweets and delicacies being shared among family and friends. 

"Girl Reciting Quran" by Osman Hamdi Bey

Girl Reciting Quran by Osman Hamdi Bey, 1880

Ramadan and Self-Transformation 

I now have a better understanding of Ramadan. The religious holiday is a spiritual detox, a month-long opportunity for Muslims to purify their hearts, minds and souls. It’s a time to leave behind bad habits and negative behaviors, and focus on strengthening their connection with Allah and becoming better individuals.

It’s also an opportunity to wipe the slate clean. As the Prophet Muhammad said, “Whoever observes fasts during the month of Ramadan out of sincere faith and hoping to attain Allah’s rewards, all his past sins will be forgiven.”

Muslims in Iran eat the iftar meal at long tables along a street

Ramadan is a time of self-reflection, charity and forgiveness.

I’m sure that the intense sacrifice Muslims make during Ramadan leads to some pretty powerful revelations about one’s self and helps people be more empathetic to the less fortunate.  

“Ramadan is a time for us to remember what is essential in life, to let go of our attachments to the trivial and the mundane, and to connect with the divine and the transcendent,” says Omid Safi, a professor of Islamic studies at Duke University. 

Maybe that’s not so unhealthy after all. –Wally

Oaxaca Day Trip to Tlacochahuaya and Teotitlán del Valle

First stop: the Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, with its heavenly rustic painted interior. Then on to Teotitlán del Valle for lunch at Tlamanalli and gorgeous candles from Casa Viviana.

Three niches with the Virgin Mary in the middle in old church with rustic painting of flowers on the wall at Templo Tlacochahuaya in Mexico

This amazing church in San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, with its rustic paintings, is en route to the natural wonder of Hierve el Agua.

To say that there’s a vast amount of things to do and see in Oaxaca is an understatement. So when Wally and I agreed to take a day trip to Hierve el Agua, a natural mineral spring where water collects in clifftop pools, I insisted that we make a few stops along the way. 

Driving is the best way to get around outside of town, and our friend Kevin, an expat living in Oaxaca de Juárez, kindly agreed to rent a car. 

Inside car, part of the driver seen, looking out windshield at herd of cattle on dirt road in Oaxaca, Mexico

While driving in Oaxaca, you might have to stop to let herds of cattle pass by.

Tan dog mounts a black dog in small town in Oaxaca, Mexico

You also might see stray dogs in flagrante delicto.

We set out early and met him and his friend David at Alamo Rent a Car, which was a short walk from Casa Antonieta, where we were staying in Centro. 

After a few minutes of waiting in line and filling out paperwork, we were ready to begin our adventure. It helped having a friend familiar with renting a vehicle in Oaxaca. 

The lowdown: It cost us $75 for the day, including insurance. 

Alamo Rent a Car
Mariano Matamoros 203 A
Ruta Independencia
Centro 68000 
Oaxaca de Juárez

Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya exterior with wooden cross in foreground

You can’t miss the church — it dominates the small village of San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya.

Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya: A Rustic Church Painted With Symbolism 

Our first stop, about a half hour southeast from Centro Oaxaca, was the 16th century Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya, aka the Templo de Tlacochahuaya, the centerpiece of the village of the same name. Try pronouncing it as “Tella-kocha-huh-why-uh” — a name that basically means “In the Swamp.” This is because the town is located in a valley surrounded by mountains, which makes it prone to flooding. 

The pueblo was founded by a Zapotec warrior by the name of Cochicahuala, which translates to “He Who Fights by Night.”

Statue of Jesus on a donkey used in processions by stack of red, blue and yellow plastic stools in corner of the entryway of Templo de Tlacochahuaya

A sculpture of Jesus on a donkey, representing how he entered Jerusalem, sits in the back corner of the iglesia and is used during a Palm Sunday procession.

We parked the car and walked along the outer wall surrounding the church. I could hear the rhythmic beat and swirling melody of an unseen drummer and woodwind player, which to me sounded a bit like music from a Renaissance Faire. This set the mood for our visit — it was like stepping back in time to an older, slower-paced pre-modern world.   

The church’s main façade is made up of twin bell towers, pilasters (low-relief columns that project slightly from the surface), a split pediment and niches with sculptures of various saints. An image of Saint Jerónimo, or Saint Jerome, the church’s patron, is depicted above the central doorway, with God’s trumpet directed to his ear. 

Side chapel with floral motif painted walls, group of paintings and window at Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

All of the walls inside the Templo Tlacochahuaya are covered with red, blue and tan painted designs.

Rustic painting of St. Mark with lion, book and quill on wall at Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

This fresco portrait depicts Saint Mark seated atop a winged lion (which is actually a symbol of Venice, Italy).

San Jerónimo’s heavenly hand-painted interiors are a mix of Baroque and indigenous pre-Hispanic imagery. These include plants and flowers that arc overhead like garden arbors. Tones of blue were achieved using indigo extracted from the leaves of the plant and pink blush tones from cochineal, an insect that feeds on nopal cactus and produces the color carmine red.

Gilded main altar and painted walls at Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

We had driven all the way here — we weren’t going to let a Do Not Enter sign prevent us from popping in.

Flowers in front of statue of Jesus at the Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

Offerings of flowers fill one smaller altar inside the chruch.

The main altarpiece is a stunning example of Plateresque style, which comes from the Latin word platearius, which means “silversmith.” A gilded golden masterpiece, the retablo includes a painting depicting the moment when Christ’s body was removed from the cross to be taken away for burial, and is attributed to Juan de Arrué, one of the most renowned religious artists of Mexico’s colonial era. 

Gilded niche with Christ bleeding on the cross against floral background with paintings of saints on either side in Tlacochahuaya Temple

Wooden carvings, oil paintings, gilded frames and simplistic paintings create lovely vignettes.

Statue of Virgin Mary with sacred heart, blue robe and halo against gilded altar of Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya

A statue of the Virgin Mary with the Sacred Heart

We had only been inside for a short time before we were chased out by one of the church’s caretakers. The man spoke to us rapidly in Spanish that was too difficult for me to understand. Kevin mentioned that he thought the man may have been asking for a donation. In hindsight, it probably was due to the fact that there was a No Pasar sign posted at the entrance, which I had missed but Wally had pointedly ignored as we entered. 

Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya
Calle Unión 17
San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya


Three cooks seen from behind in yellow tiled open kitchen at Tlamanalli restaurant in Oaxaca, Mexico

The Mendoza sisters cook indigenous Zapotec cuisine at their restaurant, Tlamanalli.

A Taste of Zapotec Tradition at Tlamanalli 

After visiting the church, we got back into the car. As we headed out of town, we saw two dogs having sex. We weren’t sure what kind of omen that was. At any rate, we were headed to our next stop, Teotitlán del Valle, 20 minutes away, and a short detour to the northeast. The artistic enclave is known for its high-quality woven goods — and candles (but more on that later). 

Three men sitting on staircase at Tlamanalli restaurant in Teotitlán del Valle, Mexico

Duke, Kevin and Wally sit on the staircase in the center of Tlamanalli.

First up: a delicious lunch at Tlamanalli. The restaurant came highly recommended by our primary care physician, Ross Slotten, who shares our passion for travel. The restaurant has been serving patrons for over three decades. 

Using ancient culinary techniques and recipes that have been passed down through generations, Tlamanalli is co-owned and run by Maestra Abigail Mendoza Ruiz and her sisters, Marcelina, Rufina, Rosario and Adelina. The menu pays homage to indigenous Zapotec cuisine, a legacy that Mendoza Ruiz is recognized for internationally. The space, which is low-key and humble, feels like a large home, a deeply personal space that honors their familial bond. 

The menu is limited and written on a small chalkboard. Wally and I each ordered the quesadillas de calabaza (pumpkin quesadillas) and washed it down with a cold beer. 

Chalkboard menu at Tlamanalli in Teotitlán del Valle

The menu is written on a chalkboard —and note that you can only pay in cash.

Two men smiling at a table at Tlamanalli restaurant in Teotitlán del Valle

Tlamanalli makes a great stop for lunch (and shopping) en route to Hierve el Agua.

A prominent feature of the establishment is its large open kitchen, which was designed by Mendoza Ruiz. The restaurant is off to one side of the central staircase, and the other side is a shop selling a wide variety of handmade items. We can never say no to artisan-made goods and ended up purchasing a plate with a mermaid sporting perky raised-relief breasts, a candle holder in the shape of an axolotl and a small winged ceramic devil ensnared by a serpent. 

A smiling Abigail Mendoza Ruiz with a pan in her yellow tiled kitchen at Tlamanalli

The adorable Abigail Mendoza Ruiz, whipping up dishes with her sisters in the restaurant’s open kitchen.

The restaurant is spacious and offers ample seating. However, we weren’t visiting during peak season, and due to the popularity of the spot, you might want to plan ahead and make reservations. 

Open: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

Reservations recommended 

Tlamanalli
39 Avenida Juárez
Teotitlán del Valle


Ornate flower-shaped colorful candles for sale at Casa Viviana in Teotitlán del Valle

Gorgeous handmade candles at Casa Viviana

Waxing Poetic About a Master Candlemaker: Casa Viviana 

The real reason I wanted to visit Teotitlán was to meet the master candlemaker at Casa Viviana. 

The legendary artisan and her family live on a quiet unpaved road. The only indication that we were at the right spot was a sign hanging outside an unassuming door leading into the living quarters, workshop and store.

But when we arrived, the front door was locked. We knocked loudly — I really didn’t want to go away disappointed — and eventually the door opened and we were led into the central courtyard. 

Turns out we had interrupted a family celebration. But Doña Viviana Alávez, the matriarch of the family, graciously welcomed us into her shop. 

Back of candlemaker at Casa Viviana, with gray hair braided and connected with blue ribbons..

Viviana herself came out to help us, briefly leaving a family party. We love the local tradition of connecting two long braids with ribbons.

Viviana is recognized as one of the grand masters of Oaxacan folk art. Her family has been making handmade beeswax candles for over 300 years. These remarkable works of art are mostly used for traditional celebrations, including baptisms, engagements, weddings and funerals. 

Colorful handmade candles shaped into flowers at Casa Viviana in Teotitlán del Valle

Many of Viviana’s candles are bought for special occasions.

When we visited, Viviana didn’t have any big tapers left — the elaborate 4-foot-tall constructions I had seen in images and videos online. (Perhaps it was for the best — I’m not sure how we would have gotten one home.) 

She did, however, have a variety of small intricate flower candles. The candles are known as velas tradicionales de concha, for the delicate shell-like shapes of their ornamentation and are made from wax that is cut, shaped and dyed with natural colorants like cochineal (red), indigo (blue) and pericón (yellow), which are added to the beeswax. 

After some deliberation, we purchased a few of the small traditional velas to give as gifts as well as one shaped like a lily and one shaped like a cactus that came in a small ceramic pot for ourselves. The candles came to about $7.50 each — a small price to pay for these works of art. 

Viviana hold two pink candles she has made

The maestra herself: Viviana holds two of her works.

Nopale cacti hang from the ceiling above a loom at Casa Viviana in Teotitlán del Valle

We passed a loom with nopal cactus paddles above it (those white bits are actually cochineal bugs used to make red dye).

Open: 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. (but maybe call ahead)

Casa Viviana 
Absalo s/n
Teotitlán del Valle 

Bright pink jacaranda bush and fence post cacti against brick wall in Oaxaca, Mexico
Small wooden chair against white adobe wall in small town in Oaxaca, Mexico

With our purchases safely packaged by Doña Viviana, we said our goodbyes and returned to the car. It was time for us to continue our trip to the popular tourist destination of Hierve el Agua. –Duke

Step Into the World of Gossip Girl: The Ultimate NYC Tour

Spotted: a glam guide to the most iconic Gossip Girl locations! Take a journey through the scandalous lives of Manhattan’s elite. Grand Central, the Empire State, the Met steps — here’s everything you need to feel like you’re living in the show.

Cast of the original Gossip Girl sitting on black town car

Are you ready for a story of love, drama and betrayal? Well, then hop aboard for a tour of Gossip Girl shooting locations. 

I still remember the days when my classmates and I would huddle around the TV, transfixed by the scandals and love triangles of our favorite Upper East Siders. From the unforgettable (and toxic) pairing of Chuck and Blair to Serena’s iconic style — not to mention Lonely Boy’s emo angst — Gossip Girl had us hooked.

It wasn’t just the characters that captured our hearts — it was the city that served as their playground.

New York City became a character in its own right, a backdrop for the drama and glamour that unfolded on screen.

But it wasn’t just the characters that captured our hearts — it was the city that served as their playground. New York City became a character in its own right, a backdrop for the drama and glamour that unfolded on screen. And as a die-hard fan, I knew I had to experience it for myself.

That’s how I found myself on a bus full of fellow Gossip Girl enthusiasts, ready to embark on a tour of the show’s most iconic filming locations. We chose BCS charter bus rental for our journey, knowing that we would be in for a comfortable ride with amenities like plush seats, a bathroom and even a fridge. And of course, the show’s killer soundtrack was a must-have for our journey.

Our adventure took us to some of the most famous spots from the show, from Grand Central to the steps of the Met. And we of course made a stop at the Empire State, where Chuck and Blair’s romance reached new heights (and lows).

As we traveled around the city, I couldn’t help but feel like I was living my best Gossip Girl fantasy. 

Bustling crowds at Grand Central Terminal, with American flag hung on wall and windows reading 100

Stop 1: Grand Central Terminal

89 East 42nd Street

Let’s go back to where it all began: iconic Grand Central. This is where Gossip Girl’s leading lady, Serena, returned to NYC in the very first episode. I’ll never forget the moment Dan laid eyes on Serena here, which set off a chain reaction of drama.

Serena arrives in Grand Central in the Gossip Girl pilot

After grabbing a coffee at Central Market, we headed inside to see the spot where it all began for ourselves, snapping some pics of the breathtaking architecture.

The gorgeous Campbell bar in NYC, with leather bar stools, windows with rounded patterns and a fireplace at one end of the room

Stop 2: The Campbell

15 Vanderbilt Avenue

The Campbell isn’t your average bar — it’s a scene straight out of Gossip Girl. With three distinct areas, including a cozy fireplace, it’s no wonder Serena and Nate chose this spot for their steamy rendezvous. At the time, Nate was still dating Blair. Talk about scandalous!

Serena and Nate hook up at the Campbell bar in Gossip Girl

This historic bar has been given a stylish makeover and is a must-visit destination for any fan of the show.

Facade of the Museum of the City of New York

Stop 3: Museum of the City of New York

1220 Fifth Avenue

Get ready to step back in time and experience the history of New York at the Museum of the City. It boasts an impressive collection of photographs, interactive exhibits and in-depth analyses of the city’s architecture and infrastructure during various eras.

The high school students from Constance Billard School in their uniforms on the front steps on the reboot of the show Gossip Girl

But what’s the connection to the show? The museum was a filming location for the Gossip Girl reboot. It’s where the new characters made their grand entrance at Constance Billard School, and we couldn’t help but feel like we were part of the show’s elite crew during our visit.

Rooftop red neon sign reading HOTEL EMPIRE

Stop 4: Empire Hotel

44 West 63rd Street

We couldn’t have a Gossip Girl tour without a visit to the Empire Hotel, the stomping grounds of Chuck Bass himself. This iconic hotel is not only a filming location but a hub for luxurious dining and posh accommodations.

Chuck and Blair, seen from behind, hold hands and cross the street to the Empire Hotel

We had a meal at PJ Clarke’s and reminisced about all the Chuck and Blair drama that unfolded within those walls. And don’t miss the chance to take in the stunning view from the rooftop bar — it’s the perfect spot to feel like a true Upper East Sider and get a view of the iconic neon sign. 

Empire State and other skyscrapers make up the skyline of NYC at sunset

Stop 5: Empire State Building

20 West 34th Street

We couldn’t leave New York without a visit to the Empire State Building. It’s not only a world-renowned landmark, it’s also the site of one of Chuck and Blair’s most epic moments. This is where Blair was supposed to meet Chuck — but things didn’t go quite as planned.

Blair in green coat holding pink flowers atop the Empire State Building on Gossip Girl

Don’t worry — our visit was drama-free, and we were able to take in the stunning views of the city from the top.

Exterior of the Met as the sun is going down

Stop 6: Metropolitan Museum of Art

1000 Fifth Avenue

Last but certainly not least, we have the iconic Met. This museum may have many impressive exhibits, but let’s be real. We’re all here for one thing: the steps. These stairs are the backdrop of some of the most memorable scenes from the show, where Blair and her minions held court.

Blair and her minions donning headbands sit on the Met steps and talk to a girl in a pink coat with red purse

We couldn’t resist taking our own Blair-inspired photos on the steps, and felt like true Upper East Siders for a moment. It was the perfect ending to our Gossip Girl tour of New York.

Blair Waldorf in school courtyard on the TV show Gossip Girl

Following in the Footsteps of Your Favorite Gossip Girl Characters

Are you following along, fellow GG addicts? If you’re anything like me and want to immerse yourself in the fabulous world of the Upper East Side elite, then this is the tour for you! Rent a charter bus, gather your squad of Gossip Girl enthusiasts and hit up all the iconic spots from the show. From Grand Central Station to the Met’s legendary steps, you’ll feel like you’re living in the show itself. Trust me: It’s a full day of fun and a must-do for any true fan. 

So what are you waiting for? Grab your Blair headbands and don your Chuck Bass suits and hop aboard! You know you love me. XOXO –Alexandra Karsonn