Gorgeous Guanajuato: The Ultimate Day Trip From San Miguel de Allende

A one-day itinerary for travelers looking to experience the best of Guanajuato City, including the Museo de las Momias, the Teatro Juárez and the funicular to the Pipila Monument and overlook.

If you’re staying in San Miguel de Allende, you’ve gotta take a day trip to Guanajuato — and we’ve got the perfect itinerary for you.

Even if you’re not into displays of desiccated corpses, the charming and colorful capital of Guanajuato, Mexico has plenty to offer. It makes for a delightful day trip from the tourist hotspot San Miguel de Allende. 

“The sights in Guanajuato are equal parts beautiful and bizarre.”

A Brief History of Guanajuato

Originally inhabited by indigenous groups, the region was conquered by the Spanish, and the town of Guanajuato was incorporated in 1554. 

Like San Miguel, Guanajuato was an important and wealthy colonial city due to the region’s large silver deposits. It played a pivotal role in Mexico’s struggle to break the Spanish yoke. The city was the site of the first major battle of the Mexican War of Independence, which took place in 1810. Guanajuato also played a significant role in the Mexican Revolution, which began in 1910 — it was the site of the first battle (which the revolutionaries won).

Hop to it! Follow this walking tour of charming and quirky Guanajuato.

Guanajuato Day Trip Itinerary

With this tried-and-true one-day itinerary, you’ll experience the best of colorful and quirky Guanajuato, taking in the top attractions, flavors and vistas that this charming city has to offer.

Start your day at the Mummy Museum, then head to the Plaza of the Frogs before strolling along the main street of town. Here are the places we recommend stopping at, before ending with a funicular trip to overlook this incredible mountain town. With its vibrantly painted buildings and lively plazas, Guanajuato is one of Mexico’s most beautiful colonial towns.

Museo de las Momias

Looking for a bit of spook-tacular fun? The Museo de las Momias has you covered. In our estimation, this is the town’s main attraction. The macabre museum features the desiccated husks of some of the city’s former residents who couldn’t pay their burial tax, were dug up and discovered to be naturally mummified due to the arid climate. It’s a morbidly fascinating experience that’s not for the faint of heart.

LEARN MORE: The Haunting and Horrific Mummy Museum of Guanajuato

Explanada del Panteón Municipal s/n

Plaza de las Ranas

Hop on over to Plaza de la Hermandad, also known as Plaza de las Ranas (Frog Plaza). The centerpiece is a fountain created by French sculptor Gabriel Guerra and installed in 1893. It looks a bit like a swimming pool, but the stars of the show are the whimsical frog statues made of stone that decorate the open plaza. 

Why frogs? The name Guanajuato comes from the indigenous Purépecha words Quanax-Huato, which means “Place of the Frogs.” One theory is that the town took its name from a pair of colossal boulders resembling giant frogs. Seeing this as an auspicious sign, the Purépecha decided to settle here. They were a powerful empire that dominated western Mexico prior to the Spanish conquest. 

Fun fact: Guanajuato was the birthplace of Mexican muralist Diego Rivera, who referred to himself as “el Sapo-Rana,” the Frog-Toad. 

Galereña Dulces Típicos de Guanajuato

Want something sweet? Next stop: Galereña Dulces, a candy store that’s been around since 1865. They’ve got all kinds of traditional Mexican sweets — but don’t get your hopes up about mummy gummies. Much to our dismay, those don’t exist. 

The cellophane-wrapped caramel-colored confections we found are actually known locally as charamuscas. They’re a type of hard candy made from spun boiled cane sugar twisted into a mummy figure shape. Which, now that I think about it, these gnarly, crunchy versions are actually more fitting. 

Avenida Benito Juárez 188

Empanadas MiBu

Feeling a bit peckish? Time for a snack at Empanadas MiBu. I always say: If there’s a Heaven, there will be empanadas up there. These tasty little pockets of joy come in all sorts of varieties, from savory (rajas con queso are my fave) to sweet (you can never go wrong with Nutella), and are the perfect snack to munch on while exploring the city. They’re made to order and served in paper bags, making them the perfect handheld food to eat on the go. 

Avenida Benito Juárez 65-A

Jardín Reforma

Escape the hustle and bustle of the city by taking a stroll through this serene park that’s just past Empanadas MiBu. Head through the classical arch into a tranquil oasis that’s surprisingly peaceful for being mere steps off the city’s main drag. The loudest sound you’re likely to hear here is the gurgling of the fountain in the center or the chirping of birds.

Be sure to pop into G&G Cafe, the coffeeshop in the corner of this small park, if you need a caffeine fix. 

Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato

Continue down Avenida Benito Juarez until it turns into De Paz. The yellow Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato, dedicated to the city’s patroness, Our Lady of Guanajuato, is hard to miss. The yellow edifice stands proudly on the historic Plaza de la Paz (Plaza of Peace), the main square. However, unlike most Spanish colonial cities, the plaza is not a square but a triangle, to better fit Guanajuato’s hilly geography. 

The church’s façade was designed in the Mexican Baroque style and is adorned with carvings of saints and features two bell towers and a red clay dome. The interior is just as impressive, with soaring arches, intricate gold leaf detailing and a stunning main altar that encompasses the local likeness of the Virgin Mary. 

Calle Ponciano Aguilar 7

Teatro Juárez

While you’re in the vicinity, stop by the Teatro Juárez, a majestic Neoclassical theater, built from 1872 to 1903. Bronze statues of the Greek Muses, who represent the arts and sciences, stand on the roof.

We didn’t get a chance to go inside, but it looks impressive, awash in red velvet and gold details, with a colorful ceiling motif in the Neo-Mudéjar style, a nod to the mix of Spanish and Arab design popular in the South of Spain.

The landmark hosts a wide variety of performances, from concerts and operas to plays, international movies and dance. It has served as the main venue of the Festival Internacional Cervantino since 1972. 

De Sopena 10

Funicular and El Pipila Monument 

End your stroll through town with a ride on the funicular. The station is close by the Teatro Juárez. A cable car system built in 2001 takes you up the hill to an overlook and costs 60 pesos (about $4) for a roundtrip ticket. We had to stand in line for a bit, but it was worth the wait. The ride up is pretty fun — but the view is breathtaking. I was utterly captivated by the hilly landscape and the colorful, densely clustered  patchwork of buildings that stretched out before us. I leaned against the railing and gazed out at it for a long time. It’s easy to see why the enchanting city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Pro tip: When facing the city below, head off to right for a less-crowded viewing platform above the basilica.

Crowds of tourists and locals gather in the shadow of the El Pipila monument, a towering 80-foot statue built in 1939 to commemorate a hero of the Mexican War of Independence.

So who exactly was this Pipila fellow? His real name was Juan José de los Reyes Martínez, who, during the siege of Guanajuato, crawled towards the Alhóndiga de Granaditas, a granary used as a fortress by Spanish troops. He had a large stone slab used to grind corn (a pipila — hence his nickname) on his back. Once he reached the door, he used the stone to break it down, allowing the rebel forces to enter and defeat the Spanish troops.

De La Constancia 17

Outside the Mummy Museum, we watched a performance of men in drag mock-fighting. The sights in Guanajuato are equal parts beautiful and bizarre.

SMA Day Trip

All told, we spent about four hours in Guanajuato. We hired a driver from San Miguel de Allende through our hotel’s concierge. The ride is an hour and a half each way. We got dropped off at the Mummy Museum and then texted our driver at the end of the day once we on our way back down on the funicular.

From truly disturbing to truly delightful, Guanajuato is a day trip not to miss. –Wally

San Miguel de Allende’s Knockout Door Knockers

Knock, knock! Who’s there? It doesn’t matter — just keep a lookout for the Mexican town’s amazing and Instagrammable door knockers.

People go ga-ga over doors. When I was younger, I remember seeing posters of the doors of Dublin or Tuscany. And while I’m able to appreciate these elements of design, something else jumped out at me as Duke and I wandered the streets of the charming colonial town of San Miguel de Allende: nice knockers.

Door knockers, that is.

 San Miguel de Allende, or SMA, as many call it to save a few syllables, is known for its rich cultural heritage and stunning architecture — and its door knockers are no exception. These decorative pieces not only add a touch of charm to the town’s doors but also reveal the history and cultural influences of the region.

I’m obviously not the first one to note the proliferation of door knockers around town. “I love how each door knocker in San Miguel de Allende tells a story. It’s like a miniature work of art that you can appreciate every time you enter a building,” says Kevin Raub, a travel writer for Lonely Planet.

From rustic wrought-iron to ornate brass, SMA’s door knockers come in a variety of shapes and sizes, though you’ll mostly see animals (especially lions, fish and horses) and faces. 

Unlocking the Past: Exploring the Origins and Evolution of SMA’s Door Knockers

The tradition of elaborate door knockers in San Miguel de Allende has its roots in the city’s rich colonial history. During that era, many families were all about showing off their wealth. Door knockers became a popular status symbol and were often made from expensive materials like brass or wrought iron.

As the city grew and evolved, the tradition of ornate door knockers continued, but with a new focus on craftsmanship and artistry. Today, the door knockers of San Miguel de Allende are more of a reflection of the city’s artistic heritage.

So, whether you’re a fan of history or art, or just appreciate the quirky things in life, San Miguel de Allende’s door knockers are sure to catch your eye and knock your socks off. –Wally

Meet the Mojigangas: The Larger-Than-Life Puppets on the Streets of SMA

What’s a mojiganga? From their origins in the 16th century to current wedding celebrations, here’s everything you need to know about this big and bold Mexican folk tradition. 

Spend some time in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, and you’re sure to come across the giant puppets known as mojigangas. OMG, is that Frida on the right?!

On our first day wandering through the hilly cobblestone streets of San Miguel de Allende (aka SMA), Mexico, we stumbled upon a sign that read, “Mojigangas.” Being the curious adventurers that we are, we couldn’t resist the urge to investigate. We stepped off the street and saw that the metal door to the workshop of the Sanmiguelense artist Hermes Arroyo wasn’t fully closed, and decided to take a peek inside. We caught a glimpse of a few of his colorful, larger-than-life creations. 

We couldn’t help ourselves. Seeing that Hermes was talking to an assistant, we passed by his studio and walked into what we learned was the courtyard of his family home. We admired the cast of characters lined up against the walls. Catrinas — tall, female skeletons wearing fancy hats — stood shoulder to shoulder with a bride, groom and grinning devil wearing a striped shawl. 

Moments later, we were greeted by the master puppet maker himself. He was more than happy to show us around. 

“Mojigangas are very important to Mexican culture.

They are a representation of our customs and traditions, and they allow us to pass down our heritage to future generations.”

— Hermes Arroyo

When we asked to take a photo with them, he called over one of his assistants so Duke and I could both be in it with him.

Hermes regaled us with stories of his life and how he began making mojigangas (pronounced mo-hee-gon-gahz), a traditional Mexican folk art form of papier-mâché puppets with oversized noggins. He learned the art of making mojigangas from a master craftsman named Genaro Almanza, who was a coworker of his father. While apprenticing with Almanza, he became adept at working with a variety of materials, including resin, plaster, wood, fabric and paint.

Mojigangas come from a longstanding tradition of entertaining the public — and best of all, they don’t even mind being groped!

The Origin of Mojigangas  

Mojigangas are an essential component of the local culture. These towering figures are a familiar sight, bringing the streets to life with their vibrant colors and playful antics.

These puppets, also known as gigantes, or giants, have been around since the Spanish brought them to Mexico in the 16th century. In Catalan, capgrossos, or giant heads, were worn for street theater performances that provided comic relief. 

A mojiganga of Anado, the artist behind the ultra-quirky Chapel of Jimmy Ray, outside of SMA

Nowadays, the puppets reflect the country’s diverse cultural influences, with many sporting traditional indigenous dresses. The Mexican love of poking fun at death and sin is evident in the high number of skeletons and devils. And some pop culture icons have popped up as well, including Maleficent and Frida Kahlo. 

The top part of a mojiganga

The Art of Making Mojigangas

How are these quirky, supersized puppets made? First, an armature, or skeletal wire frame, is constructed in the shape of the figure. Then, using cartonería (from the Spanish word for cardboard), layers of paper and paste are affixed to the frame to create a base. After the base is dry, several more layers of paper are added, each getting progressively thinner and smoother. Once the paper layers are complete, the mojiganga is painted with vibrant colors and decorated with accessories like teeth, cloth arms and hands, clothing and other details.

Mojigangas grace the entrance to many shops in SMA.

Today, thanks to modern materials like foam and fiberglass, some mojiganga makers create even more impressive and intricate figures — some even have blinking eyes, mouths that open and pipes that smoke!

SMA has become a major wedding destination, and no celebration would be complete without a parade that includes mojigangas depicting the happy couple.

Here Come the Mojigangas: A New Wedding Tradition

Mojigangas have become a popular addition to wedding celebrations in San Miguel de Allende. Couples often customize their mojigangas to resemble themselves, complete with traditional wedding attire. The puppets then lead the wedding party through town in a parade called a callejoneada, where everyone dances and sings in celebration of the newlyweds.

If you’re thinking about incorporating mojigangas into your wedding, a customized pair of mojigangas typically costs between $500 and $1,000. It’s a memorable way to celebrate your big day. 

Hermes Arroyo graciously posed for a picture with Duke and Wally in his studio in San Miguel de Allende, and gave them a quick tour.

Hermes Arroyo: Master Mojiganga Maker

Our new friend Hermes has been making mojigangas for over 30 years. His work has been featured in exhibitions and festivals all over Mexico and the world. 

“Mojigangas are very important to Mexican culture,” he told Culture Trip. “They are a representation of our customs and traditions, and they allow us to pass down our heritage to future generations. It’s important to preserve these traditions, so that they can continue to be a part of our culture for years to come.”

Hermes’ dedication to preserving the traditions of mojiganga making has earned him a reputation as a master craftsman and a cultural ambassador for Mexico. His work has been featured in museums and galleries around the world, such as the Museum of Latin American Art in Long Beach, California and the Museo de Arte Popular in Mexico City. 

He has also inspired others to take up the art of mojiganga making by teaching workshops and sharing his knowledge and skills. 

The Day of the Dead parade that kicks off the Bond flick Spectre, complete with skeletal mojigangas, was so popular, it has become an annual tradition in CDMX!

His puppets were featured in the opening scene of the 2015 James Bond movie Spectre, for which he created dozens of mojigangas for the iconic Day of the Dead parade. He’s also appeared in the History Channel documentary series The Strongest Man in History in 2019, where he challenged four buff dudes to carry his mojigangas through the streets of San Miguel de Allende. His puppets stand between 16 to 20 feet tall and weigh over 40 pounds, or 18 kilograms. 

Some of the fun folk art for sale at Hermes’ shop, la Casa de las Mojigangas

We popped into his shop and came home with a much more manageable, smaller luchador sporting a blue mask and trunks. 

Meeting a master craftsman like Hermes is just one of the many delightful surprises that SMA has to offer. If you want to experience part of what makes San Miguel de Allende so special, head to his shop and studio and discover the magic of mojigangas. –Wally

La Casa de las Mojigangas

San Francisco 62
Zona Centro 37700
San Miguel de Allende
Guanajuato 
México

 

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Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera’s Fascinating Connections to Fallingwater

A seduction at the iconic Frank Lloyd Wright home. The influence of Frida’s home, the Casa Azul. Juan O’Gorman’s insulting mural project. And the Kaufmanns’ role in the Mexican artists’ success. We explore the artistic ties that bind these fascinating personalities.  

Frida standing with The Two Fridas

Imagine visiting Fallingwater, Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic masterpiece. You’re surrounded by stunning natural beauty, and the architecture is simply breathtaking. 

But what if I told you that two of the most famous Latin American artists, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, were also friends with the Kaufmann family, who commissioned and lived in the home? It’s a story that’s as fascinating as the house itself.

“When [Levy] returned to his bedroom, there was Frida — waiting for him!”

— Hayden Herrera in "Frida: A Biography of Frida Kahlo"

E.J., Edgar jr. and Liliane Kaufmann at Fallingwater, their now-legendary weekend home designed by Frank Lloyd Wright

The Kaufmanns: A Family of Taste and Distinction

Edgar Jonas Kaufmann, or E.J. to his friends, was the head of a well-known Pittsburgh department store family. He was a highly respected businessman, aesthete and philanthropist who, along with his wife, Liliane, turned the family retail empire into a center of culture and fashion. 

Fun fact: The surname Kaufmann fittingly means “merchant” in German. 

As lifelong patrons of the arts, E.J. and Liliane enjoyed spending time with architects, artists and other creatives. Their only child, Edgar Kaufmann jr. (the lowercase “jr.” was his preferred abbreviation), inherited his parents’ love of art. He was particularly interested in modernist design, and he believed that functional objects could also be works of art.

Diego Rivera standing with a study of his mural-that-was-never-to-be, Man at the Crossroads. Rockefeller, who commissioned it, found it to be a bit too Communist for his tastes.

The family’s weekend home, Fallingwater, was filled with a formidable collection of artworks and objects. If the Kaufmanns weren’t already familiar with the socialist works of Mexican artist Diego Rivera, they most certainly became aware of him when his unfinished mural, Man at the Crossroads, caused a major controversy in 1933. The mural, which featured a portrait of Vladimir Lenin, was commissioned by the Rockefeller family, but they were so outraged by the inclusion of the Marxist leader that they had the mural destroyed. (Rivera’s re-creation, Man, Controller of the Universe, is on display at the Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City.)

Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera had a lot to thank the Kaufmann family for in helping them gain fame.

When the Kaufmanns Met Frida and Diego

It’s possible that the Kaufmanns were introduced to Rivera by John McAndrew, the newly minted curator of the Department of Architecture and Industrial Art at New York’s Museum of Modern Art, aka MoMA. McAndrew visited Fallingwater in 1937 to document the house for the upcoming exhibit, A New House by Frank Lloyd Wright on Bear Run.

Fallingwater has a surprising connection to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

It’s not hard to imagine that McAndrew would have talked about Rivera to the Kaufmanns during his visit to Fallingwater. McAndrew had previously traveled and studied architecture in Mexico, where he was inspired by the country’s rich cultural heritage. 

E.J. and Liliane were drawn to the rustic charm of Casa Azul, Kahlo’s childhood home in the Coyoacán neighborhood of Mexico City. The Kaufmanns saw it as an antidote to city life and wanted to create a similar sense of peace and tranquility at their weekend home, Fallingwater.

Frida Kahlo at her home, Casa Azul, which provided inspo for Liliane Kaufmann.

They appreciated the objects that Kahlo had filled her home with, including sculptures by the self-taught Mexican artist Mardonio Magaña. Four of these sculptures are on display at Fallingwater, and a reproduction of one is available for purchase at the Fallingwater museum store. (Completing the loop, a photograph of Fallingwater hangs in the permanent collection at Casa Azul.)

One of the works by Mexican artist Mardonio Magaña found at Fallingwater

In the 1930s, E.J. and Liliane became patrons of Rivera, and later of Kahlo, his wife. For nearly two years, E.J. provided Rivera with a monthly stipend of $250, totaling $5,000. That’s equivalent to about $86,000 in today’s dollars. Although Rivera never ended up being commissioned to paint anything by the Kaufmanns, he and the couple were friends, and two of his works are on display at Fallingwater.

Look for Diego Rivera’s Profile of a Man Wearing a Hat hanging in the guest bedroom at Fallingwater.

Torrid Siesta (El Sueño) by Diego Rivera, in the passageway that leads out to the guesthouse at Fallingwater

Profile of a Man Wearing a Hat originally hung in E.J.’s private Wright-designed office at Kaufmann’s sprawling Pittsburgh department store. And Torrid Siesta (El Sueño) was first placed in E.J.’s study on the third floor of the house but was later relocated to its current location on the enclosed bridge that leads out to the guesthouse.

Liliane Kaufmann found Frida Kahlo to be “most interesting.”

A Love of Latin America 

The Kaufmanns’ interest in Latin American culture grew, and in May 1938, Edgar jr. and Liliane took their first trip to Mexico City. The newly reestablished government of Mexico was eager to forge a national identity that promoted its pre-Hispanic heritage to American tourists. 

While there, Junior and Liliane visited Diego and Kahlo at their home and studio in the neighborhood of San Ángel, a modernist structure designed and built by their mutual friend, Juan O’Gorman. It was a place of creativity and conflict. While the couple were both artists, they had very different approaches to their work. Rivera was a well-known and successful muralist, while Kahlo was a more private painter who focused on self-portraits. 

Liliane wrote:

Yesterday we visited Diego Rivera at his home in San Ángel. It is a very interesting house inside and he is a very simple charming man. He showed us a lot of things and took us over to meet his wife who was most interesting. She paints also, very delightfully, and we had a swell time.

At the home and studio, Kahlo played the role of dutiful wife. She also served as Rivera’s secretary, entertaining and courting patrons for him. While Rivera enjoyed socializing with high society, Kahlo resented it. 

Don’t be sad, Frida! You’re about to catch a big break!

Frida Kahlo’s Big Break 

It was during this period that Kahlo retreated to Casa Azul, where she developed her commanding signature style. She had a difficult life. She contracted polio when she was 6, which left one leg thinner than the other. And when she was 18, she was in a bus accident that left her severely injured. She hid this by wearing long ruffled skirts, boxy shirts to conceal her surgical corsets and adorned herself with jewelry. Inspired by traditional Mexican indigenous clothing, her style came to represent a patriotic identity and a defiance of traditional gender roles.

Kahlo’s first big break occurred a short time after Liliane and Junior’s visit. In the summer of 1938, Hollywood actor and art collector Edward G. Robinson, famous for playing gangster types in film noirs, purchased four of Kahlo’s paintings for $200 each while vacationing in Mexico City. 

Edgar G. Robinson might have played tough types in the movies, but he was blacklisted in Hollywood as a Communist and helped launch Kahlo’s art career.

At the time, Kahlo was virtually unknown in the United States and she was always a bit shocked when anyone liked her work. She had often given it away for free, and she later wrote of the Robinson sale:

For me it was such a surprise that I marveled and said, this way I am going to be able to be free; I’ll be able to travel and do what I want without asking Diego for money.

When the French writer and founder of the Surrealist movement, André Breton, included Kahlo among its canon, she refused the label. She said, “I never painted dreams; I painted my own reality.” 

But she did understand the power of marketing. Breton introduced her to Julien Levy, a New York gallery owner who specialized in being the first to present avant-garde artists to American viewers. When Kahlo met him, she knew that he could help her reach a wider audience.

We wish we could see your reaction to Frida Kahlo’s My Birth.

In November 1938, Kahlo’s first solo show at Julien Levy Gallery in New York marked a shift in her artistic career. E.J. and Liliane were in attendance and purchased two of her paintings: My Birth (1932) and Remembrance of an Open Wound (1938). The latter was lost in a fire at the country home of Edgar jr. and his companion, Paul Mayén, sometime in the 1980s. The exhibition was a great success, and Time noted that it was “the flutter of the week in Manhattan.”

The Kaufmanns invited Kahlo and Levy to visit Fallingwater. Biographer Hayden Herrera recounts that Kahlo’s visit was one for the books:

The gallery owner Julien Levy, who seems to have gotten lucky with Frida Kahlo at Fallingwater

Once Levy took Frida to Pennsylvania to visit his client and friend Edgar Kaufmann Sr., who, Levy said, wanted to be Frida’s patron. The train ride was everything train rides are supposed to be — a slow but inexorable buildup of erotic anticipation. When they arrived, however, Frida flirted not just with Levy, but with their elderly host and son as well. She was very cavalier with her men, Levy recalled. She liked to play one off against the other, and she would pretend to one suitor that she thought the other was a nuisance or a bore. At bedtime, Levy and the senior Kaufmann tried to wait each other out so as to spend the last moments of the evening in romantic solitude with Frida. When she retired, Fallingwater’s complicated double stairway [the exterior steps up to the guest room] served as the stage for the evening’s drama. After biding his time until he thought everyone was peacefully asleep, Levy emerged from his room and started up one side of the staircase. Much to his astonishment, he found his host climbing the stairs on the other side. Both retreated. The same confrontation took place several times. In the end, Levy gave up. But when he returned to his bedroom, there was Frida — waiting for him!

Liliane and Junior’s continued travels to Mexico laid the groundwork for the fittingly titled Below the Rio Grande, a shoppable exhibit at Kaufmann’s flagship store, which introduced consumers to Mexican antiques and folk art. Some of these items were later incorporated into Fallingwater’s décor. 

Nearly a dozen small pre-Columbian objects can be found in the guesthouse. These were likely gifted to the Kaufmanns by Rivera, who was a passionate collector of pre-Columbian art. During his lifetime Rivera amassed over 50,000 pieces, many of which are housed at the must-visit Anahuacalli Museum in CDMX. 

Landscape: Jalapa, Mexico by José María Velasco hangs in the bedroom of the guesthouse at Fallingwater.

One of the guesthouse bedrooms features a large oil painting by José María Velasco, a mentor to Diego. The work, entitled Landscape: Jalapa, Mexico, hangs over the bed. Velasco’s artistic endeavors are so esteemed that the Mexican government considers them national monuments. This painting was acquired by the Kaufmann family around 1937 for $500. In 1954, it was hanging in E.J.’s suite at the William Penn Hotel in Pittsburgh, and was moved to its current location by Edgar jr. in 1960.

Juan O’Gorman, whose mural commissioned by Edgar Kaufmann Sr. featuring prominent Pittsburgh tycoons below a toilet, was deemed too controversial for the Young Men’s and Women’s Hebrew Association

Kaufmann’s Rockefeller Dreams and Botched Mural

Pittsburgh society was dominated by wealthy families like the Carnegies and Mellons. This made it difficult for the Kaufmanns, who were Jewish, to achieve positions of power and influence. Despite lobbying for many public works projects throughout his life, E.J. saw few of them come to fruition. 

In 1940 he invited the socialist architect, painter and muralist O’Gorman to Pittsburgh to submit a proposal for murals for the interior walls of the Young Men’s and Women's Hebrew Association, of which he was president. 

As a guest of the Kaufmann family, O’Gorman spent a weekend at Fallingwater, which he later described as “one of the most beautiful buildings in the world.” 

When it came to the mural, though, O’Gorman clearly missed the brief: His preparatory sketches for the project portrayed Pittsburgh tycoons Andrew Carnegie, Henry Clay Frick and George Westinghouse as the kings of a polluted plutocracy that arose from consumer capitalism. As if that wasn’t enough, O’Gorman further emphasized his sentiments by prominently featuring an open toilet and a roll of toilet paper above the tableau. 

O’Gorman’s proposed mural was clearly at odds with the organization’s mission to celebrate the moral development of youth. As a result, the project was rejected and O’Gorman returned to Mexico City. As compensation for the failed project, E.J. sent the artist a check to subsidize a mural at the Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra in the town of Pátzcuaro, Mexico. 

Even though he kiboshed Juan O’Gorman’s Pittsburgh mural, Edgar Kaufmann footed the bill for this astounding mural in Mexico.

Divided into four sections, the mural vividly depicts the history of the Purépecha people. The first shows the indigenous people before the Spanish conquest; the second, the arrival of the Spanish and the beginning of the conquest; the third shows life after the conquest, when the Purépecha were forced to adopt Spanish customs and religion; and the fourth shows Gertrudis Bocanegra, the martyred heroine of the 1820 War of Independence, her white dress smeared with blood from her execution by firing squad. 

Frida Kahlo’s What the Water Gave Me

Edgar Jr.’s Artful Encounters, From MoMA to Madonna

Edgar jr. traveled with McAndrew to Mexico in 1939, looking for works of art to include in the MoMA exhibit Twenty Centuries of Mexican Art. The pair recognized Kahlo’s talent, and the show, which opened on May 15, 1940, featured no fewer than three of her paintings: The Two Fridas (1939), What the Water Gave Me (1938) and The Wounded Table (1940). 

The Wounded Table by Frida Kahlo

In 1943 Junior purchased and donated Self Portrait With Cropped Hair to the MoMA. The painting is part of the museum’s permanent collection and was conceived shortly after Kahlo’s divorce from Rivera. It’s thought to be a reflection of her feelings of anger, sadness and independence after the separation. Kahlo’s oversized charcoal gray suit (surely Rivera’s) and short haircut are symbols of her rejection of traditional femininity, while the scissors she holds suggest her decision to take control of her own life.

Self Portrait With Cropped Hair by Frida Kahlo shows the artist after her divorce from Diego Rivera, wearing one of his suits and having chopped off her locks to resemble his hairstyle.

After his parents died, Junior brought Kahlo’s My Birth to his apartment in New York City. The painting is a deeply personal and imaginative work of art, depicting Kahlo’s birth from a dead mother.

According to Fallingwater director Justin Gunther, Edgar jr. had a dry, ironic sense of humor. Case in point: He kept the painting hidden in a closet in his New York apartment, and would only reveal it to his guests at the most unexpected moments. He loved to see the look of surprise on their faces when they saw it for the first time.

Madonna purchased My Birth from Edgar jr. She says you can’t be friends with her if you don’t like it.

In 1987 Edgar jr. sold the painting through his dealer to the pop star Madonna. Although worldly, he didn’t know who she was when he met her, and had planned on selling My Birth to her for just a little more than what his parents had originally paid for it. But his dealer told him, "We can do better than that,” and quoted a much higher figure.

Madonna was later quoted in Vanity Fair saying, “If somebody doesn’t like this painting, then I know they can’t be my friend.” –Duke

From Starter to Star: How Boulenc Became the Must-Visit Café in Oaxaca

Say bonjour to a taste of France at the hottest bakery and breakfast spot in Oaxaca City, Mexico.

The open-air dining area of Boulenc has a bohemian vibe and an eye-catching pendant.

For Wally and me, the best places are often the ones shared among friends. This is how we came to make a pilgrimage to Boulenc, after one of my coworkers stayed at the attached hotel for a couple of days and raved about the food and atmosphere. 

However, we didn’t realize how easy it is to pass by.  

“Let’s talk about the real reason you go to Boulenc: the food and drink, which is beautifully presented and delicious.

They definitely serve up one of the best breakfasts in town. ”

Somehow we found ourselves getting lost in Oaxaca de Juárez, Mexico more often than we typically have in other cities. Centro, the “downtown” of this laidback town, has a dense and irregular network of streets that more than occasionally change names. 

The unassuming façade of Boulenc is easy to pass by.

For this reason, we walked past the faded blue façade on Calle Porfirio Díaz a couple of times before realizing it was Boulenc. If the metal grille doors covered with flyers and a chalkboard that lead to the main dining patio happen to be closed, you’d never know you’ve reached one of the culinary hotspots of Oaxaca. 

However, we were determined — and by our third day in the enchanting city, we arrived early and soon found ourselves having breakfast there. Boulenc is attached to and part of the panadería, or bakery, that brought the artisanal bread movement to Oaxaca nearly a decade ago. 

Stop into the bakery next door for some delicious pastries and artisanal breads.

Juan Pablo: The Pope of Pastries

But let’s start at the beginning. The bakery’s mastermind and co-founder, Juan Pablo Hernández aka “Papa,” first took an interest in teaching himself how to bake bread, specifically sourdough, while working at a friend’s restaurant. 

No one knows for certain how Papa acquired his nickname. However, Boulenc’s co-owner Bernardo Dávila has a theory. They’ve been friends since their teens, and Juan Pablo has had the moniker since he was very young. Bernardo thinks that it could be because Juan Pablo attended a Catholic school, and at the time, the name of the sitting pope was John Paul II aka Juan Pablo. In Spanish, the word for Pope is Papa — not to be mistaken with Papá, which means Dad. 

Since his friend’s restaurant was only open for lunch and dinner, Juan Pablo asked if he could use the kitchen before it opened for the day to experiment and learn to make different types of non-traditional loaves, including the bread that started it all, sourdough. 

Great food, great service and a charming boho chic vibe to boot

Starting From Scratch: The Rise Of Boulenc

In January 2014, Juan Pablo invited his good friends Bernardo and Daniel López to Oaxaca de Juárez to convince them that it was the right time to open a bakery. He had been selling his artisan bread as a side hustle. He had created a logo and landed on Boulenc, which comes from the word for bread maker in the Picard dialect of France. 

“We came to Oaxaca right before the boom,” Bernardo recalls. “We knew that it had to be located in Centro, because that’s where all the restaurants and tourists are.” 

The trio found a suitable location that was formally an art gallery space. It was within their budget — and became the first incarnation of Boulenc. It didn’t have much, Bernardo says, but it did have three capable co-owners who were up for the challenge. 

Boulenc moved to a larger space and now has a boutique hotel attached (and some cool murals in the restaurant).

Their instincts had proven right. The bakery was quite popular and quickly found devotees. About two years later, one of their loyal customers asked if they might be interested in relocating to the colonial-era home across the street at Calle Porfirio Díaz 207.

“It’s a huge house,” Bernardo says. “When we went to check it out, there were just three people living there with three massive Neapolitan mastiff dogs. It was a little weird but it was also a good deal, so we said yes.” 

So, in 2016 Boulenc relocated and went from being a cafeteria counter limited to seven customers to a full-blown restaurant that can accommodate up to 25 people. 

Juan Pablo is known for his amazing pastries and breads.

A Passion for Baking and Local Ingredients 

Juan Pablo is known for his passion for baking and his use of fresh, regional ingredients. He sources his flour from a nearby mill in Nochixtlan, and fruits, nuts and other ingredients from small local producers. 

“I believe in using natural, healthy ingredients and making everything from scratch,” Juan Pablo told Plate magazine. “I’m very particular about the ingredients that I use, and I like to know where they come from.”

Boulenc has something for everyone, and serves breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, pizzas and a variety of beverages too long to list here. If you just want to grab something to go, there are European-style artisan breads, delectable pastries and coffee you can get at the bakery counter next door to the restaurant. 

The bar at Boulenc has a cool wire sculpture created by the owners’ friends at Máscaras de Alambre.  

A Fresh Start

Boulenc expanded the business by renovating and adding Boulenc Bed and Bread, a seven-room boutique hotel. 

Paulina García, another co-owner of Boulenc, moved from Saltillo, Mexico and began making jams and preserves in the kitchen above the restaurant patio before experimenting with fermented foods. Eventually she and Daniel opened Suculenta, a provisions store next door to the café. 

Both projects were completed and opened to the public in 2020. 

Despite their success, the founders of Boulenc are constantly trying out new recipes and techniques. 

“I’m always experimenting and trying new things,” Juan Pablo told the Oaxaca Times. “I’m constantly looking for ways to improve and refine our recipes, and to create new flavors that people will love.” 

Most recently, the founders organized and attended a five-day cheesemaking workshop with David Asher from the Black Sheep School of Cheesemaking at a ranch outside of Oaxaca de Juárez. And knowing them, they’ll find a way to introduce some incredible homemade cheeses in the future. 

Be sure to stop into Boulenc at least once during your time in Oaxaca — you won’t be disappointed!

Breakfast at Boulenc 

Over the seven days that Wally and I stayed in Oaxaca, we came to Boulenc twice, and that’s high praise since they had tough competition from our hotel’s in-house coffeeshop, Muss Café. 

Boulenc’s dining room proper is just beyond the doors I mentioned earlier. Inside is a tranquil, open-air courtyard with rustic wooden tables and chairs.  

The walls of the interior courtyard reminded me of another excellent restaurant we dined at in Fez, Morocco called the Ruined Garden, which occupied part of a former dar, or traditional Moroccan home. 

But let’s talk about the real reason you’re here: the food and drink, which is beautifully presented and delicious. They definitely serve up one of the best breakfasts in town. 

During our first visit, I ordered a velvety cold brew that was so good I didn’t need to add milk. Wally had an iced latte, and since he ordered a second one, I know that he enjoyed his drink, too. 

For breakfast, I got a stack of warm, fluffy pancakes made with rice, oat and almond flour served with bananas, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries and figs. This was accompanied by maple syrup served out of a copita, a small gourd cup, and housemade granola. Wally had the turkey ham and cheese croissant with a fried egg, chipotle mayonnaise and fresh tomato. Not traditional Mexican fare, but sometimes when you travel, you crave something continental. 

There’s not a lot of seating, and Boulenc is a popular spot, so be sure to get there early.

A word of advice if you’re interested in having breakfast at Boulenc: Arrive early to avoid waiting in line. It’s a popular spot, and Wally and I made sure to arrive just before 8:30 a.m, when the restaurant opened. We were able to get right in. Breakfast is served until 1 p.m.

The restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine. The staff are friendly, knowledgeable and attentive, which made for a wonderful experience. And while we certainly didn’t feel rushed, there was already a line forming when we left at 9:15. 

To one side of the restaurant is the bakery; on the other is Suculenta, an adorable provision shop.

After breakfast, we popped into Suculenta. You’ll find delicious jarred foods, cheeses, natural wines, organic fruits, vegetables and more. 

We bought mustard with capers, mango and pineapple marmalade, a cocoa peanut butter and jabón de cacao (an exfoliating soap with cacao nibs from Mamá Pacha Chocolate). 

Suculenta offers a selection of homemade condiments and other items, all charmingly packaged.

A variety of booze is on offer at the tienda, with a focus on natural wines.

If the store’s not open, you can also purchase a variety of their goods at the bakery counter. 

The verdict: You might have to keep your eyes peeled to find it, but be sure to add this to your Oaxaca itinerary. And should you have to join the queue, know that it’s worth waiting for. –Duke

Boulenc 

Calle Porfirio Díaz 207
Ruta Independencia
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
México

 

Pretty in Pink: Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel

Discover the strange history of this iconic church, the lively Jardín it overlooks and the riotous Festival of San Miguel. 

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel, an icon of San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

“It’s just like the Disney Castle!” 

It’s a refrain you’ll hear often when you show pictures of the iconic church in San Miguel de Allende. Only, for my money, it’s cooler, cuz it’s pink — and I’d much rather be in Mexico than Disney World. 

“The church was designed by a self-taught indigenous stonemason named Zeferino Gutiérrez, who was inspired by a postcard of a Belgian church.

Apparently, Gutiérrez had never seen a cathedral in person, so he just winged it, scratching his design in the sand with a stick. ”

You’ll never tire of seeing the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel (they really need to come up with a solid nickname). And the good news is, almost every time you head out to explore the charming colonial town, you’ll find yourself passing by the church and the main square, known locally as el Jardín. 

Behind the church is a quaint cobblestone street.

A Towering Legacy: Construction of San Miguel’s Most Famous Landmark

The exact date of construction is a matter of debate. There’s a convoluted history on the church’s website, stating that the first iteration was in 1564 — while others believe it wasn’t completed until the 1700s. The church has undergone so many renovations and additions over the years that it’s difficult to discern what the original structure looked like.

Perhaps all those renovations is why San Miguel Arcángel is a delightful mishmash of different architectural elements. The exterior features a Neo-Gothic façade that was added in the late 19th century, while the underlying structure is more Mexican Baroque. 

San Miguel de Allende is for lovers.

But let’s face it: The real stars of the show are the towering spires. They’re the stuff of legend, designed by a self-taught indigenous stonemason named Zeferino Gutiérrez, who was inspired by a postcard of a Belgian church. Apparently, Gutiérrez had never seen a cathedral in person, so he just winged it, scratching his design in the sand with a stick. 

Whatever the case, the end result is magical — he created those fantastical, otherworldly spires that look like they belong in a fairytale.

Part of its undeniable charm is the fact that it’s pink. The stones used in the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel’s façade are cantera, a volcanic rock likely sourced from nearby quarries. Over time, the stones have taken on a more vibrant shade of pink, winning the hearts of visitors and locals alike.

Duke sits on the steps at the side of the church.

The church sort of leans to one side, which has led to various theories about how it came to be that way. Some say it was built askew on purpose to ward off evil spirits or to align with the position of the sun. Others attribute its slant to an earthquake or even the Devil himself. In reality, the tilt is likely due to the sandy soil San Miguel Arcángel was built on, which has shifted over time. This natural phenomenon is known as subsidence and is a common problem in many parts of the world.

In recent years, efforts have been made to stabilize the church and prevent further subsidence. However, the tilt remains a distinctive feature of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel and adds to its unique character and charm. Hey, it worked for that Tower of Pisa.

The Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel has seen some violence over the years.

The Cristero War and the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel 

The San Miguel Arcángel parish has seen some real action over the years. For one thing, it was witness to the bloody Cristero War of the 1920s. This violent conflict pitted Catholic rebels against the anti-clerical government of Mexico, with both sides fighting tooth and nail for their beliefs. San Miguel Arcángel wasn’t spared from the brutality — bullets and bombs left the church’s walls scarred and pockmarked. In addition, some of the priests of San Miguel Arcángel were killed or exiled during the conflict. 

The church was later repaired, a testament to the resilience of the locals and a symbol of Mexican history and faith.

The interior of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel didn’t go entirely as planned.

A Work in Progress: The Interior of Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel 

While I’m utterly smitten with the whimsical exterior of the Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel, the interior ain’t too shabby, either. It also features a variety of architectural styles, including Gothic, Baroque and Neoclassical. The high ceilings and intricate details create a sense of grandeur and awe. The main altar is adorned with gold leaf and features a statue of San Miguel, aka Saint Michael the Archangel, the church’s namesake. 

Wally thinks this would be a great place to propose to someone.

Off to the side is a smaller chapel adorned with surprisingly modern murals that look Cubist. 

A chapel in the back corner of the church has a Cubist-esque mural showing indigenous Mexicans on one side and Catholic monks on the other.

As impressive as the interior is, though, it’s not quite finished — or what was first intended. In fact, the original plans for the interior were much more grandiose, but due to a lack of funding and resources, many of the ideas were never fully realized. 

On the side of the church is a statue of Fray Juan de San Miguel, who founded the city and was, in turn, named for Saint Michael the Archangel.

Saintly Swordsman: The Legend of San Miguel

So who exactly is the archangel the church is named for? 

Well, with a name like Miguel, which means “Who Is Like God,” it’s not surprising that he’s the commander of the heavenly host. He’s often depicted with a sword, ready to do battle against Satan and his minions. 

San Miguel is also the patron saint of police officers and soldiers. 

Plaza Allende, commonly known as the Jardín, is the bustling center of this charming colonial town.

The Heart of San Miguel: Exploring the Jardín, the City’s Vibrant Central Park

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel overlooks the main town square, the Jardín, formally known as Plaza Allende. This lively square is the beating heart of San Miguel de Allende. If you’re looking to people-watch, hear a mariachi band, pose with the giant puppets called mojigangas or grab some street food (we had elotes one night that were delicious), this is the place to be. 

Dancing by the gazebo

A mariachi trumpeter

Mariachi bands entertain the crowds in the plaza in front of the church.

The Jardín is situated right in the center of town, which makes it a prime location for all sorts of festivities and events. It’s flanked by the church on one side, and rows of shops and restaurants on the others, so there’s always something to see and do.

Grab dinner at the elote stand.

Wally digs into his elote.

But the Jardín wasn’t always the lovely green space it is today. In fact, it used to be a marketplace where vendors sold everything from produce to livestock. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the town decided to convert it into a park, complete with benches, a gazebo and trees that have been trimmed into circles.

If you can, time your trip to coincide with the Feast of San Miguel at the end of September.

Feast of San Miguel and the Crazy Castillos of the Town’s Biggest Fiesta

Duke and I happened to be in SMA during the Feast of San Miguel — but, as odd as it might sound, no one told us about it! Thank God we happened to be walking through the Jardín and noticed that they were erecting wooden scaffolds in front of the church. 

We looked at a flyer pasted to the wall that listed local events. Lo and behold, it was none other than the town’s biggest frickin’ festival! 

There was a café on the corner we’d been wanting to check out, so we popped in there and got some drinks while we waited for the festivities to begin. 

The week-long Festival of San Miguel, aka La Alborada, takes place around September 29, the saint’s feast day, usually culminating on the following weekend. 

The festival’s firework show was the most impressive we’ve ever seen — in part because of the gorgeous backdrop of the church spires.

And what a festival it was! A crowd gathered in front of Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel, and mariachis played their tunes. But the pièce de résistance were the castillos, those towers we had seen, rising up like giant matchstick sculptures in front of the church. 

Local craftsmen build these towering infernos, using skills and techniques that have been passed down through generations. It’s truly a sight to behold. 

The castillos are a wonder to behold.

When they’re lit, stand back — and let the sparks fly! The pyrotechnicians manning the castillos are like mad scientists, firing off bursts of firecrackers in all directions, painting the night sky above San Miguel Arcángel in a kaleidoscope of colors amid ear-splitting booms. The fireworks on the castillos emit high-pitched wails, spin like Catherine wheels, and form images and words. The whole spectacle was unlike anything we had seen before. 

Forget the drawn-out firework shows you see in the States; this was a machine-gun riot of color and explosions — the best we’ve ever seen. A huge grin was plastered on my face, and I’d turn to my neighbors, strangers united by sharing this marvel, and we’d shake our heads and laugh, unable to believe we were witnessing such magic. –Wally

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel from el Mirador, overlooking the town of SMA

Parroquia San Miguel Arcángel

Principal s/n
Zona Centro
37700 San Miguel de Allende
Guanajuato
Mexico

 

Centro Cultural San Pablo: A Hidden Wonder in Oaxaca

An art-filled secret alley, award-winning design and a mission to preserve the indigenous heritage of the region, thanks in part to the Biblioteca de Investigación Juan de Córdova. Oaxaca’s cultural center is where culture and community come together. 

The cool stonework in the passage leading to the cultural center

It opens up like a secret passage. At first we noticed the distinctive and charming herringbone pattern on the ground, chevrons of stone interspersed with grass. 

We were drawn toward it, mesmerized. Then we looked up and around — and discovered a wonderland squeezed between two massive edifices. We had happened upon the art-filled alleyway that leads to the Centro Cultural San Pablo in the Mexican art-filled and mezcal-soaked town of Oaxaca. 

The Alleyway Art Spaces at Centro Cultural San Pablo

Outside the Centro Cultural San Pablo, in the alleyway that leads to its entrance, there’s a gallery to the left if you enter off of Miguel Hidalgo, as well as a smaller exhibit space at the other end (which had a three-dimensional re-creation of Van Gogh’s painting Bedroom in Arles). 

It’s not hard to figure out what this portion is called the Plaza de los Paraguas (Umbrella Plaza).

A diorama at one end of the alley was a real-life re-creation of Van Gogh’s painting Bedroom in Arles.

But the alley itself is the coolest part. It’s like walking through an immersive art exhibit — and it’s free for all to enjoy. At its center is the Plaza de los Paraguas, or Umbrella Plaza, an art installation of colorful umbrellas that form a canopy overhead. 

Once you’ve had your fun exploring the alley, it’s time to head into the cultural center — which is no less impressive. 

The interior courtyard of the Centro Cultural San Pablo had seats set up for a musical performance.

Convent-Turned-Cultural-Gem: Centro Cultural San Pablo 

The Centro Cultural San Pablo is housed in a massive structure that was originally a convent for the Dominican order back in the 16th century — and shares the building with the boutique hotel we stayed at, Casa Antonieta, and the Oaxaca Textile Museum. A local philanthropic organization, the Alfred Harp Helú Foundation, spent 186 million pesos (about $10 million) to acquire and renovate the building.

And what a job they did! The cultural center opened in 2011. Once you step inside, you completely forget you’re in an ancient edifice. In an interview with ArchDaily, Gabriela Carrillo explained that when designing the cultural center, she and her partner, Mauricio Rocha, were inspired by the traditional architecture of Oaxaca. “We were looking for a language that would allow the building to be understood as part of the city,” she said. “We didn’t want it to be a foreign object that just landed there.” 

That may be the case, but in a colorful, charming and crumbling town, it certainly feels fresh and sleek. The duo has ingeniously blended a modern flair with traditional elements. 

Three sides of the main space feel as if they haven’t been updated much since the nuns made this their home. But one wall is a work of art — three stories entirely encased in glass with steel frames.  

“Our work is about finding a balance between the past and the future, between tradition and innovation,” Rocha told Wallpaper*. 

Mission accomplished. But the Centro Cultural San Pablo isn’t just a pretty face — it’s also a multifunctional space that serves the community. “The design is driven by the idea of being a cultural platform that can adapt to different types of events,” Carillo explained. 

The roof of the cultural center retracts to be open to the sky on nice days.

Rocha and Carrillo’s work on the Centro Cultural San Pablo has helped to cement their reputation as some of Mexico’s most talented architects. Their design scored them the prestigious World Architecture Festival’s Building of the Year Award in the Culture category in 2018. The project was also a finalist for the Mies Crown Hall Americas Prize and was selected for the ArchDaily Building of the Year Award in 2019.   

A wander through the first-floor gallery

A Creative Hub and Cultural Playground: Exploring the Vibrant Events Scene at Centro Cultural San Pablo

Since it opened in 2011, the Centro Cultural San Pablo has become a beloved institution in Oaxaca, known for its innovative programming and commitment to promoting the arts and culture of the region.

For locals and visitors alike, the cultural center is a hub of activity, with events and exhibitions that showcase the diversity and richness of Oaxacan culture. Film, concerts, conferences, presentations and classes, from traditional dance to pottery — there’s always something going on at the center. 

Sculptures of musicians lined one wall of the courtyard.

While we were exploring, we wandered through an art exhibit on the first floor, then watched the staff set up for a musical performance by a female harpist. 

A harpist preps for her concert.

We also passed a table near the entrance displaying a variety of native handicrafts. I assumed it was educational, but Duke somehow deduced the objects were actually for sale. We both gravitated towards a small tureen in the shape of an armadillo (because obviously). And for 510 pesos (about $26 at the time), the price was right. The wares were a selection of items from the nearby shop Andares del Arte Popular. 

A friendly young woman explained that we’d have to pay at the store across the street, but we should explore the center, and she’d walk us over when we were done. 

The Biblioteca de Investigación Juan de Córdova is open to the public. Its mission is to preserve the indigenous cultures of Oaxaca.

Preserving Mesoamerican Heritage at the Biblioteca de Investigación Juan de Córdova

The stunning glass wall is part of a small research library that’s open to the public. The Biblioteca de Investigación Juan de Córdova has a cool mission: It’s dedicated to preserving and sharing the rich cultural heritage of the state of Oaxaca. They conduct research on Mesoamerican cultures, organize events to share it with others, and work to preserve and digitize their collections.

A side passage is visually arresting — though we have no idea of its purpose.

Mi Casa de la Cultura Oaxaqueña Es Su Casa de la Cultura Oaxaqueña

All in all, Centro Cultural San Pablo has made a profound impact on the cultural landscape of Oaxaca and beyond. Through its innovative programming, commitment to social justice and celebration of the region’s rich traditions, it has become a beacon of creativity and hope, inspiring generations of artists, activists and cultural enthusiasts.

Glass pillars create an interesting vista in one of the upstairs windows.

It’s no wonder the Centro Cultural San Pablo is also known as Casa de la Cultura Oaxaqueña, or House of Oaxacan Culture. This nickname reflects the cultural center’s mission to promote and celebrate the rich traditions and diverse cultures of Oaxaca state. If there’s one thing that becomes abundantly clear when you visit this region, it’s that Oaxacans are fiercely proud of their heritage and take great pains to preserve it. It’s what makes this such an incredible place to visit. –Wally

The interesting alleyway drew us in immediately — only later did we discover the cultural center.

Centro Cultural San Pablo

Miguel Hidalgo 907
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Monday through Saturday)
10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Sunday)

Going for Baroque: The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church in Oaxaca

From its fascinating history to its stunning Baroque architecture, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church is a must-see attraction in Oaxaca.

Like most churches in Mexico, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán in Oaxaca has got history, style, beauty, drama and a whole lot of swag. 

Holy History: The Evolution of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church

Construction of the church began in 1572 and was completed over three decades later, in 1608. The building was designed by Fray Francisco de la Maza, a Spanish architect who was a member of the Dominican Order. 

“Inside the church, visitors are treated to a riot of color and decoration.

The walls and ceilings are covered in frescoes of the life of Christ and the history of the Dominican Order.”

Also par for the course: The church was built on the site of an existing temple that was destroyed during the Spanish conquest of the region. The original temple was dedicated to Cosijoeza, a Zapotec ruler from the late 15th century. He was a skilled warrior who fought against the Aztecs and other neighboring tribes to defend his people’s land and culture. He acted as shaman and healer as well, and was said to have possessed great spiritual power.

According to legend, Cosijoeza ascended to the heavens after his death, becoming a god who watches over the Zapotec people and protects them from harm.

During the colonial period, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán was built as a symbol of the power and wealth of the Catholic Church and the Spanish colonial authorities. The church was lavishly decorated with gold leaf, marble and other precious materials, and it served as a center of religious and cultural life in Oaxaca.

In the 19th century, the church played an important role in the Mexican War of Independence, serving as barracks for both royalist and insurgent forces at different times. After Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821, the church continued to be the spiritual heart of Oaxaca, and it was eventually designated as a national monument in 1935.

Today, the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán is one of the most visited tourist attractions in town, attracting thousands of visitors each year.

What’s in a Name? The Legacy of Santo Domingo de Guzmán

Saint Domingo de Guzmán was a Spanish priest who lived in the 12th and 13th centuries. He founded the Order of Preachers, also known as the Dominican Order, which was dedicated to preaching the gospel and combating heresy. Saint Domingo was known for his zeal and devotion to spreading the teachings of the Church.

There was no dramatic act of martyrdom for Santo Domingo, though: He died of a fever in Bologna, Italy in 1221, and was canonized by the Catholic Church in 1234.

Divine Design: The Intricate Baroque Style of Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church

Mexican churches tend not to be subtle. The Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church is a masterclass in Baroque architecture, a visual feast, with intricate details both inside and out. The exterior is adorned with elaborate carvings and statues, featuring saints, angels and other religious figures. The façade is made of Cantera verde, the local green volcanic stone, which glows a lovely yellow in the sunshine. Three domes top the templo — two blue and white checkered ones atop the entrance and a larger red tile one to the side.

When we saw this woman posing in front of the church, we had to get in on the action.

Inside the church, visitors are treated to a riot of color and decoration. The walls and ceilings are covered in frescoes and murals featuring scenes from the life of Christ and the history of the Dominican Order.

The altarpiece, which was carved from a single piece of cedar, is gilded with gold leaf and decorated with intricate carvings of saints, cherubs and other religious motifs.

To the right of the nave is the Capilla del Rosario, or Chapel of the Rosary, with its own stunning altarpiece.

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There’s a museum attached to the church. Hopefully it’s open when you visit!

Sacred Treasures: The Artifacts and Exhibits of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán Church Museum

There’s a museum in the massive edifice as well, to the left of the main church entrance. Unfortunately it was closed when we visited, but it holds an impressive (and surprisingly diverse) collection of religious art, including paintings, sculptures and tapestries, housed in the former monastery of the Dominican Order.

One of the highlights of the museum is the collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts, including pottery, sculptures, and other objects from the Zapotec and Mixtec cultures. You can also see a wide range of religious art from the colonial period. There’s even a collection of contemporary art, with rotating exhibits featuring the work of local and international artists, as well vintage photographs and cameras. 

As our friend Kevin, who lives in town, says, “There’s a parade or festival every day in Oaxaca.” This indigenous dance troupe performed in the plaza in front of Santo Domingo de Guzmán.

When you’re in Oaxaca de Juárez, you’ll inevitably find yourself passing by the massive Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Be sure to stop inside and admire the gilded glory — and plan a tour of the Oaxaca Botanical Garden (Jardín Etnobotánico de Oaxaca) on the grounds of the former Dominican monastery behind the church. –Wally

Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán

Calle Macedonio Alcalá s/n
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

 

A Guide to Visiting Hierve el Agua: Oaxaca’s Stunning Petrified Waterfalls

Calling all nature lovers! Tips to experience the magic of these breathtaking mineral springs — a mysterious example of Mexico’s natural beauty.  

If you’re in the Oaxaca area, we definitely recommend a day trip to Hierve el Agua.

I’ll admit it. After speaking with a friend who had recently been to Oaxaca, I was initially reluctant about visiting Hierve el Agua, the calcified waterfalls and spring-fed mineral water pools outside of the city of Oaxaca de Juárez. I told Wally, “It’s going to take us a couple hours to get there, and it might be too crowded.” Plus, after scrolling through dozens of images on Instagram, it seemed like the main purpose of the site was to provide opportunities to take aspirational selfies of the infinity pool overlooking the mountains and reflecting a bright blue sky. I was wrong. 

Natural springs form a sort of infinity pool perched at the edge of a cliff, looking out over the Sierra Madre mountains.

Our friend Kevin, who lives in Oaxaca, said it was one of his favorite places to watch the sun set and insisted we had to see it. Wally pleaded. I was convinced — especially after I insisted we make it a day trip and visit the Iglesia de San Jerónimo Tlacochahuaya and the legendary candlemaker at Casa Viviana en route.

“Calcium has left behind a suspended mineral formation that looks like a frozen waterfall. ”

You’d better hurry up and get to Hierve el Agua while there are still entrance passes left!

Hierve el Agua: Almost Closed for Good

The popular geologic wonder is located in the town of San Isidro Roaguía, in the municipality of San Lorenzo Albarradas, about 42 miles, or a two-hour drive  southwest of Oaxaca de Juárez. In English, Hierve el Agua means  “Boil the Water.” Don’t let the name fool you, though: This refers to the oxygenated spring water that naturally bubbles up out of the ground from an aquifer — not the temperature of the pools, which is around 72°. 

Wally and Duke hiked down to the lookout, with the calcified waterfall in the background.

Despite its name, which translates to “Boil the Water,” these aren’t hot springs.

Pro tip for getting there: Check if the roads are open. In April 2020, residents of the municipality of San Lorenzo Albarradas, which encompasses the rugged mountainous region where Hierve el Agua is situated, blocked off one of the roads leading to the popular attraction. The abbreviated version as to why was twofold: to curb the spread of COVID, and to manage the influx of visitors. Pre-pandemic numbers fluctuated between 2,500 to 7,000 visitors per day, which, with high traffic and the ensuing garbage, was having a negative impact on the environment. There was even talk that Hierve el Agua would remain closed.

Thankfully, the natural wonder has reopened, with new rules to prevent overcrowding; the number of visitors per day has been reduced to 200, and entrance fees have been put in place to help maintain the monument and surrounding grounds. 

Our friend Kevin says hello to a dog in the stretch of market stalls leading to the attraction.

The Market and Approach to Hierve el Agua

Our group of four reached our destination in the late afternoon and parked our rental car. We didn’t know about the visitor cap and were fortunate enough to gain admission. What a disappointment it would have been to drive all the way out there, only to be turned away! So, even though Kevin loves to watch the sun set in the mountains, it’s probably best to arrive earlier than later in the day.

We passed stalls selling packaged snacks, water, soft drinks, beer, micheladas and piña loca, a mezcal-based cocktail served in a hollowed-out pineapple, with additional chunks of the fruit drizzled with bright red chamoy sauce and sprinkled with a healthy dose of chile con limón seasoning. 

Giddy up! A vaquero, or cowboy, rides down the trail to the springs.

The walking trail that leads to the main area where the pools are was a bit steep but offered sweeping panoramic views of the Sierra Madre del Sur mountain range and the outlying valley, which was occasionally interrupted by monstrously tall flowering agave stalks. I was grateful that I brought my Teva sandals, which have great support and traction — I couldn’t imagine attempting to traverse the path in flip-flops.  

There are a few different pools to explore at Hierve el Agua.

Elevated Expectations: Petrified Waterfalls and Mineral Springs

Locals revere the waters for their sacred healing properties. And while the basins are man-made, the underground spring that feeds them is natural. Because the pools are full of mineral-rich deposits of calcium carbonate, magnesium and sulfur, they had a yellowish hue. 

The pools are refreshing — with the water temp being about 70º.

Although it was spring, it was still quite hot. Be advised that you’ll be exposed to direct sunlight since there really isn’t any shade on the plateau. Also, be sure to stay hydrated; at 5,000 feet above sea level, it’s one of the highest elevation points in Oaxaca state, and your body loses water through respiration at high altitude twice as fast as it does at sea level. 

The rock formations by the mineral springs resembled a lunar landscape.

The leafless gnarled tree at the edge of the main pool surrendered long ago. But it has become iconic of Hierve el Agua, so it pissed us off to see a visitor had hung their bag from one of its twisted branches. 

The famous dead tree at the edge of one of the pools

Kevin and his amigo David decided to hang back and relax, but Wally and I wanted to check out the trail that leads to the larger of the two petrified “waterfalls” to get a closer look. The hike itself is 1.6 miles long, with an elevation change of 623 feet. You’ll find a couple of benches and a covered pavilion at the top of the trail to relax and hydrate after you’ve completed the trek. 

Take a break from mezcal and folk art and admire the natural wonder of Hierve el Agua.

The surrounding landscape and foliage is also impressive.

Hierve el Agua is a picture-perfect way to spend an afternoon.

There are two petrified waterfalls at Hierve el Agua. Rising up from near-vertical cliffs, there’s the 98-foot, nine-story-high Cascada Grande and the smaller 39-foot, four-story-high Cascada Chica. These formations are the result of mineral-rich spring water that has trickled over the cliff face for thousands of years. It’s similar to the way that a candle drips wax down the side of a bottle while melting. As a result, the calcium has left behind a suspended mineral formation that looks like a frozen waterfall. 

La Cascada Grande is nine stories tall!

After our hike, Wally and I took a plunge to cool off, which felt great after being exposed to the sweltering Oaxacan sun. 

Wally and Duke cool off after their hike.

We packed up and headed back to the car. As the sun began to set, Kevin stopped the car so we could get out and take one last look at this stunning landscape. We gazed out over the mountains, and I reflected on the pleasant day, grateful for having experienced the geological marvel in person, and for having spent it among friends. –Duke

If you can, time your trip to catch a gorgeous sunset in the mountains on your way home.

The Lowdown 

Hours: 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Parking: 100 pesos ($5)

Admission: 50 pesos ($2.50) per person

Bring: Sunscreen, footwear that can get wet and has good traction, and bottled water (though you can buy drinks and snacks at the market)

 

Muxe Culture: Celebrating Mexico’s Fabulous Third Gender

What are muxes? An ancient Zapotec tradition blurs gender lines — but not without facing discrimination and violence.

Part of the Zapotec culture, muxes are assigned male at birth but take on roles traditionally associated with women.

Fierce and fabulous individuals are shaking up gender norms and celebrating their identities in the face of discrimination and marginalization. Meet the muxes (moo-shays) of Mexico.

But first things first: What exactly are muxes? In the Zapotec culture of southern Mexico, muxes are a third gender that includes individuals who identify as a mix of male and female — or something completely different. The term “muxe” comes from the Spanish word for woman, “mujer.” Assigned male at birth, they choose to take on gender roles traditionally affiliated with women.

“Muxe identity is about celebrating difference and diversity, and rejecting the idea that there are only two ways to be in the world.”

— Xochi Martinez in Eye

Many muxes adopt traditional female attire (fab floral dresses), while others more dramatically blur gender lines.

The Many Flavors of Muxe Identity

Much like Hatshepset, the genderbending woman who became a pharaoh in Ancient Egypt, muxe identity is complex and varied, with different expressions and categories depending on the individual and the community. Some muxes adopt traditionally feminine clothing and roles, while others maintain a more masculine appearance but challenge binary gender norms in other ways. 

“Muxe identity is about celebrating difference and diversity, and rejecting the idea that there are only two ways to be in the world,” says Xochi Martinez in Eye magazine. “We are muxes, and that is something to be proud of.”

Within the muxe tradition, you’ll find categories like muxe gunaa (effeminate muxes) and muxe nguiiu (masculine muxes). It’s all about finding a unique expression of gender identity that feels authentic and true.

When Wally passed a muxe posing on the street in Oaxaca, he had to get in on the action.

This view of gender as nonbinary has gained popularity lately — certainly in the U.S. But we’re late to the party: This indigenous group in Mexico has been practicing it for centuries. The largest concentration of muxes is found in the town of Juchitán de Zaragoza, which is located on the Isthmus of Tehuantepec in the state of Oaxaca, a narrow stretch of land that separates the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. 

A local legend explains the origin of muxes. The story goes that Saint Nicholas Ferrer, the patron saint of Juchitán, was, for some reason, carrying a sack full of muxes and was set to distribute them evenly across the country. But when he arrived in Juchitán, the sack tore, and all the muxes spilled out onto the street. The townspeople viewed this as a good sign and welcomed the muxes with open arms, promising to provide them with a safe haven and a place to call home.

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RELATED: Secrets of the Hijra, India’s Third Gender

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Beyond Gender Norms: The Bold and Colorful Fashion of Muxe Culture

Muxes are known for their fashion sense. Their style is a vibrant mix of traditional Zapotec dress and modern flair, often incorporating bright colors, sequins and bold patterns. Muxes challenge gender norms and express themselves through fashion, rejecting the idea that clothing is inherently tied to a specific gender. Some muxes dress in women’s clothing, while others mix and match traditional men’s and women’s clothing to create their own distinct look.

“We love to adorn ourselves with beautiful clothing and accessories,” muxe activist Nereo García told Vice. “We like to play with our outfits and wear what we want, regardless of what people think. It’s all about expressing our true selves and feeling confident and beautiful in our own skin.”

The muxe fashion scene is a celebration of individuality and self-expression, a rejection of rigid gender roles and expectations.

Lukas Avendaño, an artist and anthropologist, explores notions of sexual, gender and ethnic identity through muxeidad (muxe culture).

The Societal Role of Muxes: A Force for Change

But it’s about much more than clothes. “Muxe culture is not just about wearing dresses or putting on makeup,” Istmo de Tehuantepec told Vogue. “It is about assuming a role in society that is both different and important, and that role comes with responsibilities and obligations to the community.”

Muxes have historically been the healers and spiritual leaders of their communities, with a deep understanding of the natural world and a talent for curanderismo (traditional healing practices). They also bring a fresh perspective to the arts, with many muxes being talented musicians, dancers and performers. And let’s not forget the amazing food: Muxes are also known for their culinary skills, with many running successful restaurants or cooking up a storm in their homes.

But beyond their specific talents, muxes bring something invaluable to society: diversity. By refusing to conform to binary gender norms, muxes challenge our preconceived ideas about what it means to be a man or a woman, and create a more inclusive and accepting world for all of us. Plus, they look damn good doing it.

Two muxes in Oaxaca

Discrimination and Violence: The Challenges of Being Muxe

And muxes do all this while facing discrimination, violence and marginalization in a society that’s still largely patriarchal and heteronormative.

I’ve been told that Mexico is a machismo society, where rigid gender roles are the norm, and anything that challenges the status quo tends to be met with hostility. This is certainly true for muxes. While they have a long and rich history in Oaxacan society, they also face some of the most brutal forms of violence and discrimination in Mexico.

For muxes, every day is a battle to exist in a society that doesn’t understand or accept them. They face verbal abuse, physical violence and sexual assault simply for being who they are. The violence against muxes is often brutal and public, with little to no recourse for justice. Many muxes are marginalized and ostracized from their communities, leading to a sense of isolation and vulnerability.

Despite the fact that muxes have been a part of Oaxacan society for centuries, many Mexicans still view them as deviant or abnormal. They can be seen as a threat to traditional gender roles and heteronormative culture, leading to a culture of fear and intolerance.

Muxes are frequently denied access to basic human rights such as healthcare, education and employment, and are subject to widespread discrimination in housing and public accommodations.

And Mexican law does little to protect muxes from discrimination and violence, and the authorities are often unwilling or unable to intervene when attacks occur. This leaves muxes without any real legal recourse, and their attackers free to continue their reigns of terror.

The Sex Lives of Muxes

Like any other group of people, muxes have diverse experiences and individual preferences when it comes to sex and sexuality. Some muxes may be gay, straight or bisexual, and their sexual activities may involve men, women or other muxes.

Some muxes are exclusively interested in straight men; others have girlfriends. “They have sex, fall in love, have relationships, get married and, if they are lucky, have children,” Diana Taylor, a professor of performance studies at NYU, says in The Guardian. Taylor’s research highlights the fact that muxes are not defined by their gender identity alone, and that their experiences and desires are just as complex and multifaceted as those of anyone else.

It’s worth noting that muxes may face particular challenges when it comes to sexual health, as they can experience discrimination and marginalization from healthcare providers. 

“Muxe sex is still heavily stigmatized and associated with disease,” Taylor says, “which means that muxes may have difficulty finding condoms and lubricants, or may avoid going to the doctor altogether.”  

Talk about visibility! A muxe appeared on the cover of Vogue Mexico!

Supporting Muxe Rights and Visibility

The violence and discrimination muxes face underscores the importance of working towards greater acceptance and understanding of this fascinating indigenous group and their experiences. 

So what can we do to support muxes and their amazing contributions to Mexican society? It starts with education and awareness, spreading the word about muxes and the challenges they face. We can also advocate for their rights and stand up against discrimination and violence. By embracing the diversity of gender identity and expression, we can create a more inclusive and compassionate world for all.

Let’s raise a glass (or a sign of support) to the muxes of Oaxaca and all the fierce and fabulous individuals who challenge gender norms and celebrate diversity every day. –Wally