Oddities Flea Market: A Bizarre Bazaar of Unforgettable Finds

Regina and Ryan Cohn’s warped brainchild is a fantastic journey of curious collectibles.

The Oddities Flea Market is filled with items to start your own cabinet of curiosities.

When I asked Wally about attending the Oddities Flea Market, an event that brings together vendors from all over the country to sell their unusual wares, his answer was a resounding yes. (Actually, he probably looked at me and said, “Uh, duh.”)

We knew we were kindred spirits when we met — but before Wally, I identified as a minimalist. He’s a maximalist and loves collecting things. Turns out that when a minimalist moves in with a maximalist, you end up with just a little bit more stuff. I decided to embrace the aesthetic and figure out ways to creatively curate vignettes. Eventually, I succumbed and became a maximalist, too. 

Our burgeoning collection of oddities consists of a human skull named Malachi that’s supposedly a World War II trophy, a taxidermied squirrel with an Elizabethan lace collar, a two-headed African fetish figure, or nkondi, stuck full of nails, and a mummified llama fetus our friend Hugo picked up for Wally in Ecuador — to name just a few. 

When it came to the fair, I wasn’t sure what to expect. I knew that local chef Halee Raff of Hardbitten would be there with her elevated and colorful riff on Pop-Tarts, as well as Woolly Mammoth, one of our favorite shops in the Andersonville neighborhood, but other than that I wasn’t sure what we’d find. 

Vendors from around the country have booths at the market.

Embracing the Strange: The Birth of the Oddities Flea Market

The Oddities Flea Market was founded by Regina and Ryan Cohn about six years ago. Ryan was well-versed in buying and collecting antiques and oddities while Regina was making a name for herself in fashion. They combined their passions into a traveling emporium that celebrates the weird and wonderful. 

Their first market launched in 2017 and introduced the concept of oddity collecting to the general public at the now-shuttered Brooklyn Bazaar. Since then, the Cohns have expanded to additional markets in Los Angeles and Chicago. “It’s only the second time we’ve been to Chicago,” Ryan told us. “So it was a nice reintroduction.”

I am doll parts: some of the creepy-cute creations from Sideshow Gallery

This year the Chicago market was held over two days in April at Morgan Manufacturing. The red brick building predates the Great Chicago Fire of 1871 and acts as an industrial chic event space in the hip West Loop neighborhood. 

We weren’t alone in our curiosity for curiosities. When we arrived at 11 a.m. for VIP early access, there was already a small queue forming. Some lucky attendees had planned ahead and signed up to take a cat skeleton articulation class taught by Ryan. By the time we had gotten our tickets, the workshop was sold out. Next time. Maybe. 

Death masks on display from Wooly Mammoth

Not for the Faint of Heart: Entering the Fair

After checking in, we passed a booth which featured a selection of T-shirts and totes for sale (black, of course). We took a closer look and noticed that the screen-printed images were of Ryan’s personal work — Beauchêne, also known as the art of the exploded human skull.

The soundtrack for the event was provided by Dead Animal Assembly Plant, spinning songs near the entrance, with a backdrop of projections of creepy vintage cartoons. 

Spooky and silly classic cartoons played above DJs from Dead Animal Assembly Plant.

Wally and I couldn’t help but salivate as we passed by the selection of Hardbitten’s delectable baked goods. Nearby, the sophisticated cocktail bar offered a variety of specialty drinks, each with an intriguing name: Memento Mori, Sideshow, the Veneration, Wunderkammer. No judging, but it was a bit early for us to imbibe. If you were seeking a caffeine fix, Spiritus Coffee from Lombard, Illinois was the place to go.

A seclection of Hardbitten’s treats, including their riffs on Pop-Tarts

We wandered through the market, discovering an impressive variety of wondrous wares: natural history specimens, taxidermy (both artistic and traditional), creative jewelry and a few truly macabre specimens. Here are a few of our favorites. 

A woman poses for her tintype photo from Blkk Hand.

A Handful of Shadows: Blkk Hand

St. Paul-based photographer Carla Alexandra Rodriguez uses an old-school process known as wet-plate collodion to create eerily beautiful tintype portraits. This method, which dates back to the 1850s, requires precise chemistry, accurate timing and a classic large-format camera. 

Silver nitrate is used in the processing of tinplate photography and is a highly reactive chemical that can cause skin to turn black if it’s not handled properly. Her studio, Blkk Hand takes its name from this phenomenon — and is why Carla always wears gloves when working. 

Nora Past, seen in a developing tintype photo, assisted at the booth.

How’s it work? The process begins with coating a metal plate with a collodion solution that contains a mixture of alcohol, ether and silver nitrate. Each plate is exposed to light in the camera, which converts the silver nitrate to silver metal. 

This challenging and time-consuming method produces incredibly detailed images with an ethereal quality, capturing the beauty of a moment in a way that no other type of photography can.

Memento Mori Los Angeles co-sponsored the flea market.

Death Becomes Them: Memento Mori Los Angeles

Our favorite booth at the flea market belonged to Memento Mori Los Angeles, run by Brad and Deidre Hartman, a Cali-based duo who create beautiful and macabre works of art. Their pieces are a reminder of the inevitability of death, while also celebrating the beauty of life.

Among their fascinating objects were skulls, insects, crystals, jewelry, and an assortment of devotional candles featuring musical artists like Siouxsie Sioux and Nick Cave. We were mesmerized at the offerings, including a riff on the infamous Fiji mermaid hoax, a glass cloche containing human teeth and a basket filled with supple leathered purses made from genuine cane toads. I was skeptical at first when I picked one up to examine it — but it was definitely real. Don’t feel too bad, though. These amphibians were originally introduced as a means of pest control, but ended up becoming an invasive species. So now, instead of eating cane beetles, they’re just hanging out as purses and looking cute. I suppose there are worse fates. 

A replica of the Fiji mermaid, a Witchling chick and other artistic takes on taxidermy from Memento Mori Los Angeles

I was particularly drawn to their Witchlings, yellow ducklings wearing tiny witch hats, as well as a two-headed duckling called Double Trouble. Brad and Deidre’s work is a reminder to live life to the fullest and to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us, even in death.

Playful fake taxidermied heads on display at the Odds and Ends booth

Faux Real: Odds and Ends 

We stopped by Odds and Ends, featuring the work of Atlanta-based Chloë Grass, who creates quirky faux taxidermy trophies and other oddities. She studied at the Arts University Bournemouth in the U.K., where she honed her skills in prosthetics sculpting and special effects makeup.

I loved her double-headed lamb, which was both cute and creepy. (I’m realizing I have a thing for two-headed creatures.) It was definitely a conversation starter, and I couldn’t help but smile when I saw it. Chloë’s creations reflect my favorite type of art: whimsical and a little bit weird.

A selection of vintage fake eyes at Eyeba’s booth

I Only Have Eyes for You: Eyeba

We were blown away by Brooklyn-based jeweler Amanda Maer Huan’s booth at the flea market, Eyeba. She takes antique prosthetic eyes and sets them in sterling silver to create rings, pendants and other fine jewelry.

As we browsed her wares, Amanda gave us a brief education on the myth of the round glass eye. While the visible portion of the prosthesis appears round, the part that sits within the eye socket is actually curved like a pasta shell. They’re custom-made to match the size and color of the wearer’s functioning eye. 

Windows to your soul? Amazing rings from Eyeba

The rings were hypnotic. I had to literally drag Wally away.

Deadskull Curio had the most macabre offerings at the market.

A Portal to Another World: Deadskull Curio 

Deadskull Curio was the most global booth at the Oddities Flea Market. It had everything from hand-carved wood masks to antique Asian marionette puppets to Tibetan kapala skull cups. They even had black and white morgue and crime scene photos from the 1960s, vertebrae and a horrific preserved cat’s head in a jar of formaldehyde.

The collection of death photos had a warning

The booth is owned by Paul Abrahamian, who, randomly, competed in two seasons of Big Brother. He was a cool guy who was obviously passionate about his collection. Items were flying off the shelves as we were looking at them — but we decided to pass on the cat’s head specimen. It would have been like having a pet cemetery in our living room, and we’re not sure our cat Bowzer would have appreciated it.

The saucy teacups from Miss Havisham’s Curiosities were inspired by the owner’s cheeky grandmother.

Steeped in Humor: Miss Havisham’s Curiosities 

Miss Havisham's Curiosities is a line of insult teacups created by Melissa Johnson. The idea was inspired by two sources: the jilted bride trapped in time in Charles Dickens’ novel Great Expectations, and Melissa’s grandmother, who expressed herself by writing offensive things on broken or chipped teacups with nail polish and then selling them at her antique shop.

On the outside, these teacups are proper, often vintage, china. But on the inside, they’re hiding naughty surprises: cheeky insults written in cursive:  “Syphilitic,” “No one likes you!” and “Not today, Satan!” The teacups are the perfect way to spill the tea and say what you really mean…without actually having to say it.

Hidden in the Poison Forest, 2021

We were drawn to Katie Gamb’s artwork because of its twee yet sinister quality.

Sugar and Spice, But Not Everything Nice: Katie Gamb 

Katie Gamb is a Milwaukee-based artist who creates whimsical and macabre worlds in her illustrations. Her work is a love letter to a childhood spent lost in books, where animals, humans and monsters like skeletons all live together in a world of wonder. As Wally and I looked at her work, I turned to him and said, “They’re adorable at first glance — but they get a little creepy when you look closer.”

“That’s exactly what I go for,” Katie said, smiling at us.

My Heart’s Still Beating, 2019

Like much of the art we appreciate, Gamb’s works tread the line between creepy and cute.

One piece depicted a bird fluttering within the rib cage of a skeleton, while another showed a girl dressed as a ghost in a forest of poisonous plants. Katie’s imagination is a portal to a strange and wondrous world, where anything is possible. I regret not circling back to purchase a sticker featuring a sad cat playing an accordion with a feather sticking out of its mouth.

Katie’s work reminds us that the world isn’t always as it seems. There’s beauty in the darkness.

Feral Femme Art’s booth evoked a freakshow from the past with interactive artworks.

Step Right Up, Folks: Feral Femme Art

We ended the show at the Feral Femme Art booth, with a conversation with Rachaela DiRosaria, a New Orleans-based folk artist who creates assemblages that evoke the nostalgia of Depression-era circus and sideshow advertising. Their hand-painted figures and moveable parts bring these sideshow performers and circus freaks to life. 

Artist Rachaela DiRosaria posing with Zach Wager, who spun records at the market.

Inveterate

Funhouse

The Tattooed Woman

Rachaela’s work is infused with a dark humor that’s both playful and unsettling — an interactive stagecraft of delight.

Double Trouble has found a new home amid the other oddities chez Duke and Wally.

After making our way through the different vendors, I turned to Wally and said, “I’d like to go back and get Double Trouble. Are you cool with that?” To which Wally replied, “Obvi.” 

Exploring the Oddities Flea Market was a quirky adventure that appealed to our inner freaks, and we’re glad we had the chance to attend. 

The next iteration will be held at the Globe Theatre in LA on October 7, 2023 — a perfect day, in my humble opinion, as it’s also my birthday.  –Duke

48 Hours in Adelaide, Australia: A Local’s Travel Guide

A two-day itinerary for an amazing city that’s been overlooked in favor of Melbourne and Sydney for too long. With aboriginal art and great wine regions, it’s no wonder publications are heaping accolades on Adelaide.

It’s time visitors to Australia put Adelaide on their itinerary.

Tucked down in the middle of the south coast of Australia, Adelaide has played second (or is it third?) fiddle to Melbourne and Sydney for years. Tourists flocked to both of those cities — and while they are amazing places to visit if you’re in Australia, those who don’t visit Adelaide are certainly missing out.

In 2014, Adelaide finally started getting the recognition it deserved — it was named as one of the top cities to visit in the world by Lonely Planet. Then, in 2017, the whole state was crowned as one of the best regions to visit — again by Lonely Planet. And in 2021, Adelaide was declared Australia’s most livable city and the third most livable city in the world, according to the Economist Intelligence Unit’s Global Liveability Index. 

“In 2014, Adelaide finally started getting the recognition it deserved.

It was named as one of the top cities to visit by Lonely Planet. Then, in 2017, the state was crowned as one of the best regions to visit — again by Lonely Planet.

And in 2021, Adelaide was declared the third most livable city in the world, according to the Economist. ”

As you can imagine, these accolades have led to an influx of people from all over the world. And they have made us locals want to ensure that visitors have the best time.

If you’re thinking about spending a weekend in Adelaide, make the most of what this gorgeous part of Australia has to offer. Keep reading for an essential guide to Adelaide: what to eat, where to stay and of course, what to do. 

See what all the fuss is about. We’ll help you pack a lot into even a two-day visit to Adelaide.

Before You Go: A Bit About Adelaide 

I hope you’re prepared for a busy 48 hours — and I mean busy in a good way, because there is so much to see, do, taste and experience.

But before we dive into the itinerary, let’s talk about some facts about Adelaide.

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, the state that’s in the middle of the bottom half of the country. The city is located right on the coast, toward the center of the state, and is actually quite small in population, with around 1.5 million people calling it home.

The city has a strong indigenous history, with the area also known as Kaurna land, named for the traditional habitants of the area. Many areas in Adelaide honor their indigenous roots, with traditional names still being used.

In terms of weather, Adelaide does have seasons. In summer it can get quite hot, but unlike other tropical areas, like Queensland, the heat isn’t sticky and uncomfortable. In winter, it can get pretty cold — so, depending on what you’re looking for in a trip, make sure you take the seasons into consideration. If you’re looking for warm, pleasant weather, February to April is a great time of year to visit.

The city itself is convenient — not overly large and divided into a grid, and because of this you’ll be able to easily navigate getting around. There is also great public transport, with trams taking you from the CBD (central business district) down to Glenelg, a popular beach suburb of Adelaide.

But where to stay? If you’re looking for fun nightlife and shopping, staying in the CBD might be a great option, with plenty of hotels and Airbnbs around. If you’re looking for something with a beach vibe, then Glenelg is the area for you. And if you’re looking to spoil yourself, try the Sequoia Lodge, a luxury accommodation in Adelaide Hills.

Pamper yourself with a stay at the Sequoia Lodge in Adelaide Hills.

So, now that you know a little bit about the city and where to stay, it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty.

Two Days in Adelaide

Day 1: Adelaide City

Like I said before, getting around the Adelaide CBD is pretty easy. The walkable CBD and convenient transport mean it’s a breeze to explore.

To get your first day started, I highly recommend that you take a walk along the River Torrens. You can enjoy the beautiful views and do a little people-watching — something I love to do in any place I visit. 

You can follow the river all the way down to East Terrace, which is where you will find a “bridge of love” — where couples have hung a padlock to celebrate their commitment. Not only is this a very romantic place to visit, it’s also where you’re going to turn off from the river and make your way toward North Terrace.

The Migration Museum is housed in what was once the Destitute Asylum, a place that offered support to immigrants.

To get to North Terrace, you can take Kintore Avenue, site of the Migration Museum. This is where you can learn about more than two centuries of migration to Australia — and it’s free to visit. Even if you only have a half hour to duck in, it’s well worth it.

The gorgeous façade of the South Australian Museum

After the Migration Museum, if you hi want to keep up with your cultural exploration of Adelaide, then on your way to North Terrace, visit the South Australian Museum, the State Library of South Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia. At the museum, be sure to check out the Aboriginal Australian exhibition. And the library has the incredible Mortlock Wing, which wouldn’t look out of place in Harry Potter. 

Is this Hogwarts? Nope, it’s the famed Mortlock Wing of the State Library of South Australia.

The Art Gallery of South Australia

Once you’ve wrapped up at the museums and galleries, head to the Botanic Gardens of South Australia. A free guided tour is offered every day at 10:30 a.m. Here you’ll get to see a variety of  indigenous plants, shrubs and flowers. 

The majestic Palm House at the botanic gardens

By this point, you’ve probably worked up an appetite. Good news: Across the road from the botanic gardens, you’ll find plenty of restaurants, including an awesome Thai restaurant called Golden Boy. There are more restaurant options en route to Rundle Street, which is where Rundle Mall is, the famous shopping strip of Adelaide. 

On Grenfell Street, the next block over from Rundle, you’ll find the incredible Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute. You can buy gorgeous art prints and souvenirs in the gallery shop.

After the cultural center, make your way down to Central Market — it’s a bit of a walk — so you may as well take the scenic route along King William Street. That way you’ll get to see some of Adelaide’s beautiful old buildings like the General Post Office and the Town Hall.

Central Market is your next destination and is the Southern Hemisphere’s largest covered market. This is where you will find the most delicious fresh produce — and if you’re going to stop anywhere, make sure it’s the Smelly Cheese shop!

Cheeses Christ! This is Wally’s dream come true! The Smelly Cheese Company at Central Market

Now, this is where you need to decide whether you want to stay in the city for the nightlife or if you want to spend some time down at the beach. While the CBD has plenty to see and do and great restaurants to eat at, I recommend taking the tram to Glenelg to enjoy watching the day turn into night.

It takes around 30 minutes to get to Glenelg by tram, and it’s worth it — plus, you get to see some of the prettiest areas of Adelaide along the way. 

Hop on the tram — the seaside suburb of Glenelg is just half an hour away!

If it’s a warm day, you can enjoy a swim, or if you want to stay dry, why not grab a drink at the Glenelg Surf Life Saving Club and watch the sunset? Glenelg also has some great restaurants, with amazing seafood options and views of the water.

If you’re staying in the city, you can take the tram back or grab a taxi. Have a nightcap at any of the awesome bars in the city. Now, while there is always plenty on, I recommend trying to get in relatively early, because tomorrow is going to be another busy day!

The Barossa Valley is one of three wine regions outside of Adelaide.

Day 2: The Wine Regions

You cannot possibly visit this region without tasting the local wine. The Adelaide CBD is actually close to three of the best wine regions in Australia: the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills.

Before you get to the wine tasting, you need to line your stomach with a delicious breakfast. If you’re in the CBD, a great brunch place is Crack Kitchen. 

Once you’ve eaten, it’s time to get to tasting. It’s honestly hard to choose between all of the wine regions, though the Barossa is likely to be the one you’ve heard of — it’s where Rockford, Wolf Blass and Jacob’s Creek all come from. It’s northeast of the city.

McLaren Vale is south of the city and offers incredible views of the water, and the Adelaide Hills wine region is about 25 minutes east of the CBD.

The d’Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale sounds like a trip. It offers a tasting room, the Alternate Realities Museum, a Salvador Dalí exhibition and other sensory delights.

Visiting the wine regions does take a bit of planning because unfortunately, there isn’t really any public transport out there. But there are many different options: day tours, hop-on-and-off bus tours or renting a car. With that last option, you do get the flexibility of being able to spend more time in certain areas — though it also means you may not get to enjoy the tastings to their full capacity. 

If I had to choose one region, I would probably go with the Adelaide Hills. Not only do you have the benefit of enjoying Adelaide’s oldest wine region and the gorgeous vineyards, but there is so much more to do as well. 

Who can resist the opportunity to see koala bears up close? Head to the Cleland Wildlife Park to spot these cuties, along with kangaroos, wallabies, dingoes and other native animals.

In the Hills, the Cleland Wildlife Park offers a chance to meet a koala up close.

A 45-minute drive away, the Big Rocking Horse — which is exactly what it sounds like — needs to be seen to be believed.

And the picturesque traditional European village of Hahndorf is home to vineyards, bakeries, galleries, boutique shops and distilleries.

The Old Mill in the traditional European village of Hahndorf

Have dinner at the award-winning Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant on the Mount Lofty Estate on the same grounds as Sequoia Lodge.

Even if you don’t stop in the Hills, it’s a beautiful place to take a scenic drive through.

As you can see, Adelaide is a stunning city that offers its visitors so much to see and do. Of course I recommend spending as long as you can, but it’s easy to get a great sampling of all it has to offer in a mere 48 hours. –Sophie Armstrong

 

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela: One-Stop Shopping in CDMX

The best market in Mexico City is filled with folk art and handicrafts from all around Mexico.  

A selection of fantastical alebrijes on sale at La Ciudadela

Mexico City has no shortage of markets. There’s the Saturday art market along the adorable cobblestone streets on the hills of San Ángel. There’s La Lagunilla, the Sunday antiques market. There’s also the Mercado Sonora, with a witch market tucked into a back corner, and the vibrant, two-story Mercado Coyoacán. And market stalls pop up all over the city, including in the Plaza de la Republica at the entrance to the Monumento de la Revolución. 

Papier-mâché devils hanging around the mercado

¡Mucha lucha! A luchadore-themed shop at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Religious artifacts on sale at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

But if you’re into folk art, handicrafts and arte popular, as Duke and I are, the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is a dream come true. It’s so massive you couldn’t even hope to cover it all on one visit. We’ve been there on both visits to CDMX — and will make it a stop every time we go back. 

If I’m being perfectly honest, Duke and I have a problem. We just love traditional handicrafts so much we can’t help but bring home half a suitcase full of goodies. As you can imagine, our home is practically overflowing with these souvenirs of our world travels. 

A nun is amazed at the selection of folk art on sale at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

We bought a few things at this stall with clay artworks in the pre-Columbian style.

Puppets and other arte popular fill every stall at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

Mexican Trees of Life at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

A typical shop at La Ciudadela

Break up your shopping — and grab a margarita — at the cantina in the market.

Tips for Shopping at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

When you enter, the main part of the market is to your right — but don’t miss the smaller section off to the left as well. 

The stalls offer handicrafts from various regions all over Mexico: alebrijes, brightly painted wooden fantastical creatures from Oaxaca; colorful Otomi textiles, including hand-embroidered pillow covers and tablecloths depicting animals, flowers and plants; clay sculptures that surpass those sold at the Museo Nacional de Antropología gift shop with many in the pre-Columbian style. 

There are handicrafts for sale from all over Mexico at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

At La Ciudadela, prices are set — but it doesn’t hurt to ask for a bit of a discount if you’re buying multiple items from one vendor. 

We always eat lunch at Fonda Carmelita, the cantina in the middle of the market.

There’s a cantina in the middle of the market called Fonda Carmelita, where we always stop to get a bite of traditional Mexican fare — and a couple of margaritas, por supuesto. The first time we were here, Duke went to the back to use the baño and returned to the table, reporting that our frozen margs were being whipped up in a blender by an 8-year-old boy. 

The cantina will always be a welcome resting spot for us to recharge and discuss the stalls we want to revisit after lunch. Apparently, the loud-talking German-speaking tourist at a neighboring table didn’t get the memo that smoking indoors has been banned in CDMX since 2008. He lit up a cigar after his meal, which was our cue that it was time to ask for la cuenta and get back to shopping. 

Right out front of the market, a couple of women whip up tacos with homemade blue corn tortillas.

Exploring the Neighborhood

On the sidewalk outside the market, small vendors set up. The first time we came, we stopped to buy veggie tacos — and were obsessed with watching one of the women make homemade blue corn tortillas on a large metal drum right before our eyes. 

And on our most recent visit, a quirky used record stand had popped up. 

One of the best traditions of Mexico City: open-air dancing in the parks

After a half-day of shopping, the tote bags we had brought with us stuffed full of amazing finds (some for gifts, most for us), we explored the park across the street, Parque de la Ciudadela. We’re familiar enough with CDMX traditions now not to be surprised to see couples dancing in the open air. These people are doing life right. –Wally

Our fave spot to shop in CDMX

A mural on the wall in front of the mercado

When you see this, you know you’re in for a shopping extravaganza!

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Balderas S/N
Colonia Centro
Cuauhtémoc
06040 Cuauhtémoc
CDMX
Mexico

 

The Quirky Charms of the L’Isle sur la Sorgue Sunday Market

Part flea market, part farmers market, stalls line the river that encircles this town in Provence known for antiques. 

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

We learned about L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue from ma mère. She’s always been good at research and finding fun excursions as well as amazing places to stay on vacation. I still recall that she and her fellow librarians in Annapolis were among the first ones to realize the potential of what was then an upstart search engine named Google. 

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

While we were staying in Aix-en-Provence (those Provençals sure love their hyphens), the Shirl, as we affectionately refer to my mom — sometimes even to her face! — informed us of the Sunday market in a nearby medieval town named L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Most of the small towns in Provence have their charms, but what makes this one so downright adorable is the fact that it’s encircled by a river — hence its name, which references an island on the River Sorgue. The Sunday market stretches along the water’s edge halfway around the town.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Round and Round in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

We got up early on Sunday morning to catch a train to L’Isle. (I’m not sure if that’s what locals call it, but L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is just too much of a mouthful to say every time. For the record, the town is pronounced, “Leel sur la Sorg.”)

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

Bridges crisscross the canals, and now and then you’ll pass large wooden wheels in the water, covered with beards of green algae. They’re now fenced off and just there for show, the mills they were once connected to long gone. Et bien sûr, with the canal surrounding the town, it has earned the predictable nickname “the Venice of Provence.” We were there back in 2017, but more recent photos reveal that they’ve run with this, and the river is now filled with gondolas. I’m not sure how I feel about that. Aw, heck, who am I kidding? Duke and I would have totally caught a ride in one.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

About 300 stalls are said to set up each Sunday, selling everything from secondhand goods to saucisson. 

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

Right as we entered the town, we passed a table with various representations of the Provençal mascot, the cicada. (Learn why this lovely part of France chose a bug as its symbol.) We admired an iron trivet shaped like a cicada. Not sure we wanted to lug it around all day, we uttered that famous phrase of many a traveler: “We’ll get it on the way back.” 

But then I remembered having been burned before: You never know where the day will take you, or if the vendor will sell out or pack it up early. So I forked over the requisite francs (actually, by this time it was probably euros, but that doesn’t have as nice a ring to it). The trivet still sits in the windowsill above our kitchen sink. 

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The Shirl’s Suitor

One section of the market opens up into a square filled with various stands selling food items. A diminutive man, who wasn’t even as tall as my 5’2” mother, with a prominent nose and a beaming smile, called out to us as we passed by. He zeroed in on the Shirl, and started flirting with her something fierce. He shamelessly ogled her, showering her with compliments, wrapping his arm around her back, unphased by the presence of my father. He was so full of energy and was so amusingly slick, we all just laughed at his antics. 

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

The samples and the flirting are free!

He was selling various tapenades and other spreads, and offered to have us try some free samples before realizing he had run out of bread. 

So he told us, “Un moment,“ and darted off to a nearby stall, where he snatched a baguette. It looked like he stole it, which cracked us up — though I’m sure he has an agreement with nearby vendors. 

He sliced the bread up, slathered on some of his colorful spreads and batted his eyes at the “belle madame.” He was so utterly charming and over the top, we felt obliged to purchase quite a few jars of his wares. 

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

At one point, the Shirl stopped to admire a scarf. It was blue, of course. We joke that my mom likes lots of colors: blue and white and…blue. 

She put the scarf down and moved on through the crowd. We waited till she was out of sight, and then Duke snatched the scarf and bought it for her as a Christmas present. He’s sneaky that way.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Gone Antiquing

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also known for its antique shops. The town’s reputation as an antiquing hub draws crowds from all over Europe, and prices tend to be high. Peter Mayle, he of A Year in Provence fame, famously groused, “The only thing you can’t get in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a bargain.”

Despite being steeped in the fancy heirlooms of the past, L’Isle has a playfulness to it. Most of the stores don’t take themselves too seriously. You’ll find a statue of a giraffe statue peeking its head up amongst birdcages or a smiling clown looking to have his finger pulled. 

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

Wally clowns around.

We hit a bunch of shops after wandering through the market. One was situated right on the river’s edge. It seemed to balance precariously over the water, like the slightest push would cause it to totter into the Sorgue. We peered out the back door and chuckled over an amusing vignette: In the middle of the river, two chairs sat partially submerged at a table.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

Inside the two-level store chock-a-block with antique bric-a-brac, we rummaged through a bin of hand-painted numbered tiles until we found two 5s, which we passed off to my parents, who purchased them to use as their house number. 

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

We grabbed lunch at a café and sat on a small balcony over the river. The glass my beer came in was so cute, complete with a cicada, it somehow found its way in my bag. Karma ended up catching up with me, though. Because we hadn’t been back in our vacation rental for five minutes before the bag bumped into a wrought iron gazebo-like structure by the kitchen, and I heard the glass shatter. C’est la vie! –Wally

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The Creepy Witch Market at Mercado Sonora

Head to the back left corner to enter a world of magic potions, Santeria, brujeria, voodoo dolls and Santa Muerte.

When you start seeing skeletons, you’ll know you’ve found the witch market.

Ever since Duke and I stumbled upon a witch market in a corner of the souk in Marrakech, Morocco, we’ve been addicted.

What’s a witch market, you ask? It’s sort of like a farmers market — only with a lot less local produce and more skulls and potions. Filled as they are with often disturbing items, witchcraft markets appeal to our warped sensibilities.

“We noticed a life-size skeleton wearing a wedding dress, a string of pearls around its neck and a tiara atop its skull.

We had found the witch market.”

Our Uber dropped us off at the sprawling Mercado Sonora in Mexico City in front of a line of yellow awnings. At first we wondered if we would even be able to find the section that contained the witch market. Stall after stall stretched out before us, filled with brightly colored, super-sized stuffed animals like those you hope your honey will win for you at a carnival. Some stalls had lights swirling like a discotheque and housed banners and other decorations that screamed, “¡Feliz Cumpliaños!” Women sat under large cutouts of Disney princesses, Mickey Mouse and superheroes. Piñatas hung from the ceiling. Men tried to tempt us with rows of technicolor candies.

The back right corner of the Sonora Market has live animals in cages.

As we wandered toward the far right-hand corner of the massive market, we started noticing a disturbing trend: This was where live animals were sold. We witnessed a young boy dump a cardboard box of full of puppies onto the floor and hastily put them into a cage near crates packed with birds, lizards, cats, rabbits and goats.

I stopped to take a picture of a cage full of mangy-looking puppies, but a man wagged his finger at me, saying, “No fotos” in a stern voice.

“I’m not surprised,” Duke mumbled. “He doesn’t want documentation of how inhumane this is.”

It really was quite depressing. So we were relieved when, as we moved to the left, still at the back of the market, we noticed a life-size skeleton wearing a wedding dress, a string of pearls around its neck and a tiara atop its skull.

We knew we were in the right place. We had found the witch market.

The Catholic church isn’t fond of Santa Muerte and has called her worship blasphemous.

Santa Muerte and Santería

The figure we happened upon is Santa Muerte, the goddess of death, a popular figure in Mexico. The stall took up a corner space, more of a small boutique. We looked around, seeing strings of beads, skeletons carved from bone (Duke still regrets not having bought one), candles in glass containers and a stone head with cowry shells for its eyes and mouth. I called Duke over. This last item was just the type of unexpected and slightly disturbing thing that he would love. We of course purchased it, for 100 pesos, or $5.

By the way, at markets in Mexico City, unlike those in Southeast Asia or Morocco, for instance, you’re not expected to bargain. The prices are set, but that’s OK, as you’ll find that most of them are quite reasonable.

The man who ran the stall was friendly, and grabbed a pen and paper when I asked him to write down what the head is called.

“Elegua,” he scribbled. I later found out he’s the god of beginnings and endings in Santería. He’s a bit of a trickster, which explains why I was so drawn to him.

Stalls filled with Catholic icons are side by side with ones selling Santería and brujeria totems.

We made our way through the labyrinth of stalls, surprised that they didn’t connect in any sort of logical manner. You would wind through a narrow space and then find yourself at a dead end, having to backtrack. The market was pretty crowded when we were there on a Sunday morning — “These are all the naughty people who should be in church,” I told Duke — and there was still a bit of jostling in the corridors as people stopped to look at goods or tried to pass by. Every now and then, a vendor would appear, carrying a stack of large boxes, and you’d have to press yourself against the wall to let them pass. It wasn’t long before Duke was feeling claustrophobic.

But I wasn’t done exploring this weird and wonderful market.

You can buy a baby Jesus in all sizes and skin colors.

Brujeria Meets Catholicism

What’s strange about brujeria, or Mexican witchcraft, is that it exists alongside Catholic beliefs. Whereas the mere whiff of something witchy prompts Christians in the United States to scream, “Satan!” Mexicans are much more sanguine. In the heart of the witch market, you’ll find statues of saints and baby Jesus dolls, Virgins of Guadalupe and crucifixes galore right next to the scythe-wielding Santa Muerte, looking like the Grim Reaper’s soulmate.

Santería and similar religions started amongst descendants of African slaves in the Caribbean.

Mexican Catholics don’t see any problem with mixing the worship of Jesus and the Virgin Mary with magic potions.

As we wandered down a narrow corridor, something caught my attention: what was obviously a Barbie doll, entirely covered in red ribbon with a few nails stuck into it. The vendor told me it was a voodoo doll, but an expensive one, he said, apologetically. You see, it cost 100 pesos, or a whopping $5. He showed me a package of smaller, cheaply made dolls, pointing out how much more affordable they were. But I naturally had to have the other one.

You’ll see quite a few of these creepy but artistic dolls hanging in stalls. They’re representations of Santería deities.

Here’s Lucero Mundo, god of the crossroads and bestower of spiritual power.

At stalls in the witchcraft market, creepy dolls hung on the wall, some with their eyes and mouths sewn shut. One that immediately appealed to me had its face painted half red, half black. Sage smoke from a burning smudge stick filled the dark corridor, making me a little lightheaded. The vendor appeared intimidating — an intense young man with long hair, numerous piercings, tattoos down his arms and triangular studs in his earlobes. But he turned out to be friendly and wrote down the name of the god represented by the red-and-blacked-faced doll: Lucero Mundo, or Light of the World. He’s a deity from Palo, a Santería-like religion that originated in Cuba amongst descendants from the Congo. A god of the crossroads, Lucero witnesses everything, and without his consent, no spiritual power will flow. He seems connected with the aforementioned Elegua.

Whether you want money or love, there’s a potion you can buy in the witch market.

Potions and Notions

Brightly colored bottles and boxes promised the solution to any problem. Got a crush? Spray some Ven a Mi (Come to Me). Want a successful small business? Spritz some Llama Cliente (Call Customers).

I’m not sure if you’re supposed to drink these potions, but I wouldn’t put those toxic-looking, neon-colored bottles to my lips no matter how desperate I was.

Head to the back left corner of the Mercado Sonora to find the witch market.

“I was thinking there’d be more desiccated animals,” Duke sighed. These are the types of things that disappoint us. But then, as if he had conjured it by sheer willpower, we almost walked right into some sort of flayed ball of fur, which looked more like a cross between roadkill and beef jerky. It was hardly recognizable as having once been a small animal. We have a taxidermied squirrel climbing our wall, a dried-out bat in our living room and a desiccated chameleon inside our glass-topped coffee table. But this macabre monstrosity was too much, even for us. –Wally

Nacimientos, or nativity scenes, galore

Mercado Sonora and the Witch Market
Fray Servando Teresa de Mier 419
Merced Balbuena
15810 Ciudad de México, CDMX
Mexico

Saturday Night Market, Chiang Mai

Forget the Night Bazaar and hit this market by the Silver Temple when you’re in Chiang Mai, Thailand.

The Saturday Walking Street Night Market has some good handicraft stalls — but we loved this mini food court most of all

Wualai Market, also known as the Saturday Walking Street, is a lively outdoor market with hundreds of street vendors that runs from 5-11 p.m. every Saturday evening in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Since we were visiting Wat Sri Suphan, known as the Silver Temple, on a Saturday and the market was conveniently located nearby, we both agreed that it was the perfect opportunity to check it out.

An artist selling her charming linocut postcards

You can purchase everything from a variety of traditional handicrafts, clothes, tote bags, handmade hill tribe products to local herbal remedies. A short walk from the Old City’s South (Chiang Mai) Gate, the market takes place on Wualai Street, home to silver craftsmen. The enclave was resettled in the late 18th century by Burmese Shan state refugees, and its name refers to Ban Ngua Lai, a Shan village on the Salween River.

“The Saturday Walking Street Market feels more authentic and less tourist driven than the better-known Sunday Walking Street Market.”

Perhaps because it’s the smaller, secluded sibling of the better-known Sunday Walking Street on Ratchadamnoen Road, the Wualai Market feels more authentic and less tourist driven. The market spans the entire length of Wualai Road, a few of the narrow lanes in between, and is closed to motorized traffic.

Get to the market early if you want to escape the crowds

Prices are incredibly reasonable, so you’ll be sure to find some bargains here. Many Chiang Mai University art students use this marketplace to display their wares. Wally and I discovered a young woman selling charming linocut postcard-sized art and purchased a few of them as souvenirs.

Wash down dinner with a couple of local beers

Just follow the flashing lights and pumping music to find your way to the booze cart at the back of the food court

Giant shrimp peeked out of our delicious, piping hot tom yum soup

If you get hungry while shopping, you’re in luck. Scattered along the Saturday Walking Street are food stalls to satisfy your appetite and quench your thirst. Look for the small courtyard with makeshift tables amongst a cluster of market food stalls with vendors selling a wide selection of Thai street food fare. Wally and I feasted upon a delicious bowl of spicy and sour tom yum soup, washed down with bottles of Leo beer purchased from a bar-like cart at the back.

In the mood for a snack? This vendor sells a variety of crispy insects to fulfill any craving! (No, we did not partake)

If your tired feet need some help, there are plenty of makeshift street-side massage shops to choose from.

Street art along one of the main drags of the Saturday Night Market

Periodically, you’ll encounter street musicians performing for donations. While the market is smaller than the Sunday Market, it becomes more crowded as the sun sets, so it’s worth turning up early. By 8:30 p.m., when we left, the streets were bustling with pedestrians, and progress through the crowds was slow.

There’s a line of tuk-tuks to take you elsewhere — just make sure to agree on the fare before you get in. They were all quoting the same price, one that was much too high for the journey back to our hotel, so Wally and I walked a block or so away and found someone who wasn’t charging an exorbitant sum. –Duke

These Gruesome Photos of the Meknès Market Are Enough to Turn You Vegetarian

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This is about as tame as the Meknès meat market got. More graphic shots to follow

Local markets provide a glimpse into the daily life of a culture. Just watch out for the decapitated cow heads.

One of the best ways to see a local culture in action is to visit a food market. You’ll also get plenty of awesome photo opps.

I first discovered this pleasure one day when I wandered off on my own in Cusco, Peru and stumbled upon a local food market. Since then, markets — whether they’re in Spain, Vietnam or Morocco — are must-stops for Duke and me.

“It was as if we had found ourselves suddenly the unwitting victims of a horror movie.”

So, when we noticed an interior market connected to the stalls of the main plaza in Meknès (on a day trip that included the Roman ruins of Volubilis), we were excited to wander through it. At first, we passed stalls of brightly colored fruits and vegetables. But at the back, it was as if we had found ourselves suddenly the unwitting victims of a horror movie. We had entered the horrific domain of the meat market.

It was unlike anything we had ever seen. In the United States, we’re so used to brightly lit, sterile supermarket aisles, where our meat is often deboned, trimmed of fat, individually wrapped in plastic. There’s no real hint that the pinkish cut of meat was once a chicken or that the hunk of red beef actually came from a cow.

That connection to the meat’s origin was like a slap in the face in the Meknès market. It’s inescapable.

Click on the photos below to enlarge. You know you want to see them in all their gory glory.

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We wandered through the butchers’ stalls, dazed and amazed. Many chuckled at our reaction, while some of the men scowled as I snapped away quickly on my camera.

The images came quick and violent. Decapitated cow heads, their tongues lolling out. A boy digging his hands into a bowl of brains. Goat heads amidst a splattering of blood. Razor in hand, a young man intently shaving the side of an animal’s face. Haphazard piles of bloated legs, a nauseating yellow, ending in cloven hooves. Macabre dissections revealing raw, red tissue in stark contrast to the white of sawed-through bones.

Duke and I couldn’t stop smiling. –Wally

“Decapitated cow heads, their tongues lolling out. A boy digging his hands into a bowl of brains. Goat heads amidst a splattering of blood. ”

 

Old Delhi Spice Market

The Khari Baoli Spice Market also has plenty of nuts and dried fruits

The fragrant wonderland of the Khari Baoli Spice Market.

Leaving the mosque, we got back onto the bicycle rickshaw, and Mohammed took us to the Khari Baoli Spice Market. He led us into one of the stalls he was probably familiar with (and might get a commission for bringing in customers).

When the shopkeeper appeared, he gave us each a small piece of cinnamon bark to chew on. It tasted slightly sweet but also spicy, like a stick of Big Red chewing gum, only with a distinctly more fibrous bite.

“We met a Hindu who said the trouble between the two religions all comes down to the fact that Muslims want to eat their sacred cows.”

He showed us a variety of unprocessed spices: clove, cardamom pods, coriander seeds, star anise and dried mango, which would later be ground into a powder called amchur, which adds a tart and sour note to Indian cuisine.

He also had peppers: black, white and Szechuan.

He had nutmeg and mace, which he explained come from the same tree. Nutmeg is the seed inside the fruit of the Myristica fragrans, an evergreen tree indigenous to the spice islands of Indonesia. Mace is the thin, lacy, garnet-colored membrane that envelops the nutmeg kernel and has a milder, slightly peppery flavor.

The spice vendor concluded his presentation and produced a variety of cellophane-wrapped curry blends. We purchased some garam masala, thanked him and continued on our journey.

Wally and Duke precariously perched on the back of Mohammed's bicycle rickshaw, ready to explore Old Delhi

We Learn the Differences Between Hinduism and Islam

As we were walking back to the rickshaw, Mohammed nonchalantly mentioned to us that he believes the fundamental difference between Hindus and Muslims is that Hinduism has many gods, Islam only one god, Allah.

Later, we met a Hindu who said the trouble between the two religions all comes down to the fact that Muslims want to eat their sacred cows.

We perched atop the rickshaw's thin wooden board, which acted as a seat, and passed through narrow alleys amidst a jumble of old and crumbling structures with a tangled mess of wires dangled overhead.

Wally snapped a quick pic as we wobbled along on the bicycle rickshaw through the narrow lanes of Old Delhi. Everywhere overhead were jumbles of wires like these

We saw tethered goats and even some street dogs wearing hand-me-down sweater vests and men getting roadside haircuts.

Art for Our Sake

Our next stop was a shop that specialized in silk saris and pashminas. I noticed some miniature paintings they had in a case in front of the folded pashminas and asked if they had any depicting the goddess Durga. I was met with slightly bemused smiles and head wobbles, which I took to mean “yes,” as one of the women proceeded to lay an assortment on the counter like she was dealing a deck of playing cards.

While none of them depicted Durga, we did find one of the elephant-headed god Ganesha holding an umbrella that we quite liked, as well as one depicting Krishna with gopis (milkmaids). We purchased them, but, much to the shopkeeper’s dismay, no pashminas. –Duke