Paws and Poke: 4 Dog-Friendly Restaurants in Hawaii You’ll Love

Sip, snack and stay paw-sitive! From craft brews to oceanfront views, these 4 dog-friendly spots in Hawaii — Brew’d, Oli’s, Lava Java and Appetito — welcome you and your pooch.

Picture this: You and your pup, paws in the sand, the salty breeze in your hair (or fur), soaking up that island magic. Hawaii isn’t just a paradise for sun-seekers — it’s a dog’s dream, too. From sandy beaches where tails wag freely to trails that welcome four-legged explorers, the Aloha State rolls out the red carpet for those who travel with pets.

And when it’s time to refuel? You don’t have to leave your furry best friend behind. Hawaii is home to plenty of dog-friendly restaurants where you can sip, snack and savor the moment — pup in tow. Whether you’re after craft beer, oceanfront coffee or a pizza-and-wine night, these four spots make dining with dogs in paradise a breeze. Bone appétit!

1. Brew'd Craft Pub

📍 3441 Waialae Avenue
Suite A 
Honolulu, Hawaii
USA
808-732-2337

Looking for a paws-itively great pub experience in Hawaii? Brew’d Craft Pub is the ulti-mutt spot for beer lovers and their four-legged besties. With over 20 taps and more than 30 different beers, your toughest decision will be what to sip first.

Not a beer person? No worries — this spot has something for every taste, including local ciders, seltzers and a signature cocktail menu that’ll have you wagging your tail.

But let’s get one thing straight — this isn’t just a watering hole. Brew’d has a menu that goes beyond basic pub grub. Sink your teeth into fish tacos, prime rib or classic fish & chips. Veggie lovers can dig into the Szechwan cauliflower, and if you’re after a sidekick to your meal, the smoked brisket and spicy chicken sliders are top dog.

Brew’d doesn’t just tolerate pups — it rolls out the red carpet for them. The pub’s owner makes it clear on social media (and in real life): dogs are welcome! The staff is always ready to serve you and your furry plus-one, and with a spacious outdoor seating area—complete with shade and a short fence to keep things cozy — you and your pup can kick back in style.

So, if you’re sniffing around for a laid-back pub with great drinks, tasty bites, and a dog-friendly attitude, Brew’d Craft Pub is the place to be. Cheers, and give your good boy (or girl) a treat from us! 

2. Oli’s Kitchen

📍 1009 University Avenue
Suite MP2 
Honolulu, Hawaii
USA
808-387-0457

Looking for a spot where you and your pup can dig in without any side-eye? Oli’s Kitchen, a locally owned gem that opened in 2024, is already fetching rave reviews. Tucked near Puck Alley in the heart of Honolulu, this laidback eatery serves up local flavors that’ll have both visitors and locals drooling (hopefully just metaphorically).  

Oli’s is all about fresh, island-sourced ingredients, ensuring every bite brings a real taste of Hawaii. The menu? A paws-itively delicious lineup featuring crowd favorites like breakfast burritos and the peanut butter banana stuffed French toast — because why should Elvis have all the fun?  

The bright, airy interior means you won’t feel like you’re playing a game of musical chairs with your fellow diners. And yes, dogs are welcome — as long as they’re on a leash. With plenty of room to stretch out, your pup won’t have to squeeze under the table like the sneaky little snack thief they probably are.  

Bonus? It’s BYOB all day, every day. Just note that a cork and ice fee may apply — because even paradise comes with fine print.  

Regulars keep barking about Oli’s friendly service, relaxed vibe, and refreshingly low noise levels. Whether you’re fueling up for an adventure or winding down after a day of tail-wagging fun, this is one Honolulu hotspot you’ll want to sit and stay at.  

3. Island Lava Java

📍 75-5801 Ali'i Drive
Building 1 
Kailua, Hawaii
USA
808-300-5672

If you’re looking for a meal with a view and a seat for your doggie, Island Lava Java in Kailua-Kona is a great choice. This family-owned, dog-friendly hotspot has built a reputation on fresh, locally sourced ingredients and a warm, welcoming atmosphere.  

Start your day with their 100% estate-grown Kona coffee, paired with house-baked pastries and desserts so fresh, even your pup might be tempted to beg. The menu is packed with Hawaiian goodness, featuring free-range Big Island chicken, grass-fed beef and organic goat cheese, all sourced directly from local farmers.  

The real treat? Dining on the breezy outdoor patio with its stunning ocean views. Each table comes with an umbrella for shade, so you and your four-legged friend can kick back in comfort. The staff here are paws-itively accommodating — don’t be surprised if they bring out a bowl of water for your dog before you even ask.  

Whether you’re fueling up for an adventure or just looking to soak in the ocean air with your best friend by your side, Island Lava Java is a must-visit for coffee lovers, foodies and dog devotees alike.  

4. Appetito Craft Pizza & Wine Bar

📍 150 Kaiulani Avenue
Honolulu, Hawaii
USA
808-922-1150

Looking for a stylish night out without leaving your furry best friend behind? Appetito, located on the first floor of the Outrigger Ohana East Hotel on Kaiulani Avenue, serves up elevated Italian cuisine in a chic, laidback setting — with a dog-friendly twist.  

The outdoor seating area is as impressive as the menu, making it the perfect spot for a romantic dinner, a classy night out, or just treating yourself to some top-notch pizza and pasta — all with your four-legged dining companion by your side.  

Despite its casual vibe, Appetito doesn’t skimp on elegance. From the attentive service to the beautifully plated dishes, everything here is served with a touch of sophistication. The menu is stacked with crave-worthy options like Margherita pizza, steak frites with garlic sauce, spicy meatballs and Italian salami pizza — each as delicious as the next.  

And if you think an upscale spot like this wouldn’t do happy hour, think again. Appetito offers a generous three-hour happy hour from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., so you can sip on wines, cocktails and more without breaking the bank.  

With free Wi-Fi, a welcoming atmosphere for kids and dogs alike, and the option to reserve your table ahead of time, Appetito is proof that you can have fine dining, fantastic drinks and a fido-friendly experience — all in one spot.

Paradise for Pups and Their People

Hawaii isn’t just a dream destination for humans — it’s a tail-wagging paradise for dogs, too. With its breezy beaches, scenic trails and dog-friendly patios, the Aloha State makes it easy to explore with your four-legged travel buddy by your side.

Of course, a well-behaved pup makes for an even smoother trip. Many visitors take advantage of Hawaii dog training services to ensure their companions stay confident and well mannered on new adventures. Programs like Sit Means Sit help dogs brush up on their skills, making everything from beach strolls to restaurant patios a breeze. Details available here.

Whether you’re hiking volcanic trails, lounging oceanside or sipping cocktails at a dog-friendly café, Hawaii offers an unforgettable experience for both you and your pooch. After all, the best adventures are the ones you can share. –Taylor Reed

The Rules of Traveling With Your Human (A Dog’s Guide to Pet Travel Etiquette)

Traveling with a pet? From hotels to restaurant patios to transport, here’s the travel advice your dog would tell you if they could. 

Oh, you lucky dog! Your human has decided you get to join them on a grand adventure. Whether it’s a road trip, a flight, or a weekend at that place they call a “hotel” (where they inexplicably pay to sleep somewhere else), you’re in for a ride.

“Listen, I love traveling with my human.

But if they don’t follow the rules, us pets might end up banned from places — and that means fewer adventures. ”

But listen, not all humans are great at this whole “traveling with a pet” thing. Some think the world is our personal playground. Others forget that not everyone is thrilled to see our adorable, slobbery faces (weird, right?). So, as the responsible one in this relationship, let me walk you through how to make sure your human doesn’t embarrass you.

Pre-Trip Prep: Making Sure Your Human Gets It Together

Before we even leave, we need to make sure our human has done their homework. Here’s what you need to demand:

• Check the rules: Airlines, hotels and rideshares all have different pet policies. Your human needs to read them. We don’t have opposable thumbs, so it’s on them.

• Pack the essentials: Food, water, a leash, poop bags, a comfy carrier or blanket, and maybe a toy so you have something to chew on…besides their expensive headphones.

• Visit the vet: If we’re flying, crossing borders or just feeling a little “off,” a vet check is a good idea. You never know when travel might cause issues like stress colitis — and no one wants to deal with that mid-trip. Plus, it’s always fun to watch your human panic when they forget to bring proof of vaccinations.

Flying With a Pet: The Sky Is Not the Limit (Unless You Fit Under the Seat)

Okay, let’s talk about air travel. I don’t love it, but if I must be stuffed into a carrier, I expect my human to do the following:

• Pick the right spot: Some airlines let dogs in the cabin; others want to chuck us in cargo. Cargo?! You put your luggage in cargo, not your best friend!

• Make my crate cozy: If I have to sit in there for hours, at least throw in a blanket that smells like home. Maybe a chew toy. Maybe my favorite sock.

• Pre-flight bathroom breaks: I can hold it longer than you think, but come on — nobody wants an in-flight accident.

• No mid-air introductions: I get it, I’m adorable. But that doesn’t mean I need to meet every passenger on the plane. Keep me calm, keep me contained, and for the love of bacon, don’t do anything that makes me feel like I have to bark.

Road Trips With a Pet: Open Windows, Sniffing the Breeze and Not Eating the Seatbelt

Ahhh, road trips. The dream: We head out on the highway, wind in my fur, nose detecting every scent for miles. The reality: Humans often forget the basics:

• Buckle up: No, I will not sit on your lap while you drive. Yes, I do need a harness or a crate. Safety first.

• Gimme breaks, please: I love a long drive — but not so long that I start considering peeing in the cup holder. Stop every couple of hours.

• Provide snacks and water: If you’re munching on gas station snacks, I want something too. Fair is fair.

• Music matters: Maybe don’t blast heavy metal for eight hours straight? A little classical, some soft rock — I have refined tastes.

Public Transit and Rideshares With a Pet: Navigating the Human World

Some places let us ride the train, bus or even an Uber. But let’s not give other dogs a bad name:

• Stay in the carrier (if required): No one wants my fur in their morning coffee.

• Help me stay in chill mode: I won’t bark, growl or give stink-eye to other passengers if you keep me calm.

• Respect people’s space: Some humans get real weird about sitting next to a dog. That’s their loss.

Hotels and Airbnbs With a Pet: New Place, Same Rules

Your human booked us a stay somewhere fancy? Nice. But they need to remember:

• Not every hotel loves dogs: Just because we’re cute doesn’t mean we’re automatically welcome.

• Respect the property: No chewing the furniture, no marking new territory indoors.

• No midnight zoomies: Apparently, running full speed across the room at 3 a.m. is “disruptive.” Who knew?

• Tip the housekeeping staff: If I shed all over the place, my human better leave a little extra cash.

Restaurants and Cafés With a Dog: The Ultimate Test of Restraint

Ah, the café patio — the place where humans gather to drink overpriced coffee while we sit quietly and judge them. Let’s make sure we stay welcome:

• Leash up: Help me with temptation. Don’t let me run free. 

• No begging: Keep an eye on me. Even if that steak smells amazing, I will try my best not to stare at the diners like they owe me something.

• No table hopping: I get it — some humans look friendlier than others. But I can’t just wander over and get up in a stranger’s business, no matter how much I want to say hi.

Be the Goodest Boy (or Girl) and Make Travel With Pets Easier

Listen, I love traveling with my human. But if they don’t follow the rules, we might end up banned from places and that means fewer adventures. So here’s the deal:

• Be respectful.

• Follow the rules.

• Leave no trace (aka no fur, no mess, no complaints).

Because if we do this right, more places will keep their doors open to us. And that means more road trips, more vacations, and more sniffing exciting new things. What more could a dog ask for?

Now, where’s my treat for being such a good travel buddy? –As told to Wally

48 Hours in Tel Aviv: A Whirlwind of Sun, Spice and Shenanigans

Explore Tel Aviv’s top spots — Old Jaffa, Carmel Market, Tel Aviv Museum of Art and Rothschild Boulevard — in this two-day guide to Israel’s cultural capital.

Tel Aviv, Israel — where ancient history meets cutting-edge cool, and where the scent of falafel competes with the salty Mediterranean breeze. If you’ve only got 48 hours in Israel’s most vibrant city, buckle up. This is going to be a ride filled with beachside bliss, street art and enough hummus to make you consider a second stomach.

“With a mix of history, beach life and some of the best food on the planet, Tel Aviv delivers an unforgettable 48-hour adventure. ”

Day 1: Culture, Cuisine and Cocktails

Morning to Afternoon: Tel Aviv Walking Tour

Start your adventure with an extensive Tel Aviv walking tour because the best way to get to know a city is by pounding its pavements. Begin in Old Jaffa, the city’s ancient port, where cobbled alleys wind past centuries-old stone buildings, contemporary art galleries, and a view of the sea so stunning it might make you cancel your return flight.

Next stop: Carmel Market (Shuk HaCarmel) — a sensory overload of colors, smells and sounds. Here, you’ll sample Israel’s greatest hits: falafel so crispy it whispers sweet nothings as you bite in, silky hummus that could convert the most devout carnivore, and juicy fruit that make you question why produce at home tastes like disappointment.

Wrap up the tour on Nachalat Binyamin, Tel Aviv’s artsy, free-spirited street. Think vibrant murals, handcrafted jewelry, and street performances that range from mesmerizing to what did I just watch?

Late Afternoon: Beach Bliss

You’ve walked, you’ve eaten, you’ve marveled at murals. It’s time to chill. Head to Frishman Beach or Gordon Beach, where the sand is soft, the sea is inviting, and the beach bars are more than happy to provide you with a cold Goldstar beer or a fruity cocktail. Whether you choose to dip in the water, stretch out on a lounger, or just people-watch the absurdly fit Tel Avivians, this is your moment to relax.

Evening: Rothschild Boulevard and Nightlife Adventures

As the sun sets, it’s time to dress up (or at least put on your best linen shirt) and hit Rothschild Boulevard. This tree-lined stretch is Tel Aviv’s nightlife heart, packed with buzzing bars, sleek restaurants and cocktail joints that take mixology very seriously. Start at Bellboy, a speakeasy-style bar where drinks come with a side of theatrical flair. Hungry? Grab dinner at one of the city’s contemporary restaurants before diving headfirst into Tel Aviv’s legendary nightlife, where the party doesn’t stop until the sun threatens to rise again.

Day 2: Art, Markets and Mediterranean Magic

Morning: Sunrise Stroll and Coffee With a View

The Mediterranean is at its best in the morning — peaceful, golden, and just begging for an early walk or bike ride along the Tel Aviv Promenade (Tayelet). Join the locals for a jog (or let’s be real, sip coffee while watching them jog). Grab a strong Israeli espresso or a cafe hafuch (Israel’s answer to a cappuccino) at a beachside café — and let the sea breeze work its magic.

Late Morning: Tel Aviv Museum of Art

After basking in nature’s masterpiece, head to one of Tel Aviv’s actual masterpieces: the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. A haven for art lovers, it showcases Israeli and international works in a stunningly modern building. Bonus: It’s also an excellent excuse to escape the midday heat.

Lunch: The Bohemian Beauty of Neve Tzedek

Wander over to Neve Tzedek, Tel Aviv’s most picturesque neighborhood. Think charming boutiques, cute cafés and Instagrammable corners at every turn. Stop at Suzana, where the Mediterranean and Israeli flavors come together in a beautiful dance of fresh ingredients, fragrant spices, and just the right amount of tahini drizzle.

Afternoon: Treasure Hunting in Jaffa Flea Market

Jump in a taxi and head to Jaffa’s Flea Market (Shuk Hapishpeshim), a mix of vintage finds, quirky souvenirs, and stalls filled with everything from antique trinkets to trendy clothing. Bargaining is expected, so channel your inner haggler and walk away with a one-of-a-kind keepsake.

Evening: Sunset at Namal Tel Aviv

End your whirlwind 48 hours with dinner by the sea at Namal Tel Aviv, the city’s revamped port district. Picture lively restaurants, sunset views, and fresh Mediterranean seafood that tastes like it was caught five minutes ago. 

Extra Tips for Your Tel Aviv Adventure

Getting Around: The city is incredibly walkable, but electric scooters and bikes make zipping around even easier.

Best Time to Visit: March through May and September to November offer perfect weather — hot enough for the beach, but not melt-into-the-sidewalk hot.

Local Vibe: Tel Avivians are friendly, chatty, and not big on personal space — expect warm interactions and lots of hand gestures.

With a mix of history, beach life and some of the best food on the planet, Tel Aviv delivers an unforgettable 48-hour adventure. Whether you’re haggling in Jaffa, sipping cocktails on Rothschild, or simply staring at the Mediterranean in pure bliss, one thing’s for sure — this city knows how to make an impression. –Lucy Roberts

Controversial Theories of Noah’s Ark and the Flood

Was the story of Noah’s Ark a real global flood, borrowed myth or moral allegory? Explore the debates and meaning behind this ancient tale of God’s wrath and human survival.

Strip away the storybook elements of passive animals and hopeful rainbows, and what you have in the story of Noah’s Ark is a tale of despair, destruction and desperation. It’s the ultimate doomsday scenario: a world gone so wrong that the only solution is to drown it all and start over. It all started with the Fall of Man and expulsion from the Garden of Eden, followed by Cain killing Abel — and it was all downhill from there.

The ark was a lifeboat in a sea of death, carrying the last shreds of a lost world. Maybe that’s why this story has stuck around — it forces us to confront the uncomfortable truth that sometimes there’s no easy way out.

“ Is the story of Noah’s Ark a memory of a cataclysmic event, a borrowed myth retooled to fit a single-god narrative or a timeless warning wrapped in allegory?

Maybe it’s all of these at once. ”

Scholars have wrestled with this tale for ages, debating whether it’s factual history, a symbolic myth, or an ancient legend borrowed and tweaked to fit a monotheistic agenda. Let’s look at some of the more controversial theories about Noah and his ark. 

The Flood Narrative: History or Allegory?

One of the biggest debates is whether this flood was truly global, drowning every mountain and valley — or simply a catastrophic local event blown out of proportion by time and retelling. 

The flood account likely reflects a significant regional event — a deluge so devastating it took on mythic status, argues Kenneth Kitchen in On the Reliability of the Old Testament. 

But not everyone’s buying the history angle. John Walton, in The Lost World of the Flood, sees the tale as an allegory dripping with symbolism rather than being drenched in reality. The story is best understood as an archetypal narrative, one that uses the motif of a flood to explore the relationship between God, humanity and the world. In other words, it’s less about the logistics of animal storage and more about delivering a moral gut punch.

Was There Really a Global Flood?

Essentially, it comes down to the million-dollar question: Did a flood cover every inch of the planet? Modern geology says probably not. Despite fervent searches for Noah’s Ark (we’re looking at you, Mount Ararat), the evidence just isn’t there. Geologists William Ryan and Walter Pitman suggest the story likely originates from a massive but localized deluge, such as the flooding of the Black Sea around 5600 BCE. In Noah’s Flood: The New Scientific Discoveries About the Event That Changed History, they propose that this event was so catastrophic it burned itself into cultural memory, inspiring flood myths across multiple civilizations.

Borrowed Mythology: Gilgamesh and the Biblical Flood

Much like the Garden of Eden, the Genesis flood story has a striking resemblance to the Epic of Gilgamesh, which hit Mesopotamian bestseller lists centuries before Noah ever built his ark. In both, a divine figure warns a righteous man about an impending flood, instructing him to build a boat and save the animals. 

Essentially, the evidence shows the biblical authors took an old tale, stripped it down and rebuilt it with a monotheistic engine under the hood. No need for a pantheon of bickering gods — just one all-powerful deity making a divine point.

Why Did God Cause the Flood? A Divine Temper Tantrum?

The story of Noah’s Ark is often presented as a tale of divine judgment, where the wickedness of humanity becomes so unbearable that God decides to hit the cosmic reset button. But let’s pause and consider this for a moment: Wiping out nearly every living being on Earth seems, well, a bit extreme, doesn’t it? Surely there must have been a less apocalyptic solution. So, why did God do it? 

One could argue that the Flood was a manifestation of divine frustration — a sort of celestial temper tantrum. The ancient world was full of tales where God acted out of anger, jealousy or spite (often enlisting the monsters of the Bible to do his dirty work), and perhaps the Flood is another contribution to this tradition. 

In God: A Biography, Jack Miles suggests that the God of the Old Testament is still figuring things out, developing his character, so to speak. This was early in his divine career, and perhaps he hadn’t yet learned the art of conflict resolution without resorting to mass destruction.

Another controversial take comes from the notion that the Flood wasn’t merely about punishing sin but rather about purification, a sort of cosmic detox. Humanity (and perhaps that mysterious race of Nephilim), in its moral decay, had become so corrupt that a full cleanse was deemed necessary. 

Some scholars, like Jonathan Kirsch in The Harlot by the Side of the Road, suggest that the Flood story serves as a dramatic metaphor for the removal of moral pollution. The message here might be that extreme problems sometimes require extreme solutions — even if that means wiping the slate clean in the most literal sense.

And, of course, there’s the view that the Flood reflects the idea of collective punishment — a controversial concept to say the least. The innocent perish along with the guilty, a notion that seems at odds with modern ideas of justice. Yet, in the ancient world, where the actions of one could bring consequences upon many, this might have seemed entirely reasonable. Perhaps this is less a story about a wrathful God and more a reflection of the harsh realities of ancient life, where survival often came at the cost of others.

The Ark: Feasible Ship or Impossible Fantasy?

OK, let’s talk logistics. Could Noah’s Ark — roughly 450 feet long, 75 feet wide and 45 feet high — really house two of every species, plus food and water? Some engineers argue the boat’s dimensions are surprisingly seaworthy. In The Genesis Flood, Robert Briscoe claims the ark’s proportions would hold up even by today’s standards. 

But others are quick to point out the obvious: A literal interpretation runs aground when you consider how many species you’d have to accommodate. 

Some scholars argue that the Genesis story refers to broader categories rather than every specific species. Carol Hill explains in A Worldview Approach to Science and Scripture, that the word “kind” in the Hebrew Bible isn’t a technical term for species, but rather a more general grouping, perhaps closer to what we might consider families or genera. 

This might reduce the total number of animals to a manageable few thousand. Some literalists have suggested that young animals were chosen to save space and resources, as juveniles require less food and produce less waste.

Of Poop and Predators

Speaking of, the Ark was no small undertaking. Housing and sustaining thousands of animals for an extended period would challenge even modern engineering. Yet literalists argue it was feasible — with some creative problem-solving and, perhaps, divine intervention.

As for feeding this floating zoo, Henry Morris in The Genesis Record suggests that Noah and his family could have stored compact, long-lasting food like grains and dried meat. Carnivores could have been sustained on preserved foods, while herbivores would have been fed hay or something similar. This doesn’t eliminate all logistical challenges, but it helps the story hold together.

Sanitation is another frequently raised issue. Literalists propose that Noah’s Ark may have included simple yet effective waste management systems, like sloped floors to channel waste into designated areas. 

Some even suggest that God put the animals in a state of torpor (similar to hibernation), which would have reduced their movement, food intake and waste production. Lack of evidence aside, it could also explain how the animals all seemed to get along, and Noah’s Ark didn’t turn into a bloodbath. 

But the challenges extend beyond the Ark itself. Critics like William Stansfield in Science of Evolution cite the absence of evidence for the migration of species like kangaroos from the Middle East to Australia. Geneticists, including Francisco Ayala, have also pointed out that the severe bottleneck caused by such a small animal population would have led to genetic collapse in most species.

A Covenant of Survival: Rainbow or Repentance?

After the flood subsides, the skies clear, and a rainbow splashes across the heavens. It’s a warm and fuzzy moment — but there’s more going on here than just a colorful weather phenomenon. Claus Westermann, author of Genesis 1-11: A Continental Commentary, sees the rainbow as a divine apology of sorts: The rainbow represents not just a promise, but a shift in the divine-human relationship — a move from destruction to preservation. 

But hold the applause. Terence Fretheim argues the real takeaway isn’t just that God put away the smite button; it’s that humans are now on notice. The covenant is conditional, based on humanity’s moral conduct, shifting the focus from divine mercy to ethical living — with the threat of annihilation held over our heads if we don’t behave.

Flooded With Interpretations

The story of Noah’s Ark is like the Flood itself — overflowing with meaning, historical puzzles and theological depths. Is it a memory of a cataclysmic event, a borrowed myth retooled to fit a single-god narrative or a timeless warning wrapped in allegory? Maybe it’s all of these at once. 

But one thing’s for sure: This ancient narrative refuses to be boxed in. It has flowed through centuries, from ancient clay tablets to modern debates, each generation finding alternative meanings or raising new questions. Whether you approach it as fact or fiction, one truth remains: Noah’s Ark keeps sailing through our collective imagination, steering us toward reflections on faith, morality and what it means to endure life’s storms. –Wally

Starland District: Savannah’s Funky, Artsy Playground

Savannah’s coolest neighborhood, the Starland District, is a quirky haven brimming with creativity. 

I love Broughton Street — don’t get me wrong. This upscale thoroughfare, with shops like the Paris Market, the Savannah Bee Company and Urban Outfitters, has an undeniable charm. 

But I wanted something edgier, fresher and a little less polished. Enter the Starland District, a neighborhood born from the bones of an old dairy at the end of the ’90s and now pulsing with creativity.

“The Starland District: a neighborhood born from the bones of an old dairy and now pulsing with creativity.”

History of the Starland District

In 1999, two SCAD (Savannah College of Art and Design) graduates, Patrick Shay and Eric Saller, stumbled upon the derelict Starland Dairy, a once-bustling pasteurized milk plant that had been abandoned for years. The dairy, established in the early 1900s and adorned with an iconic red star, had become a canvas for graffiti and a symbol of neglected Savannah. 

Rather than tearing it down, like any good SCAD student, they saw potential in its crumbling walls and industrial charm. With a love for historic preservation, they bought the two-block complex for a modest sum and set to work.

Their vision was simple yet radical: transform the decaying dairy into a community space for artists, creatives and entrepreneurs. Over time, the Starland Dairy became a hub for studios, galleries and workshops, injecting new life into the surrounding neighborhood. The district took its name from this centerpiece, with the “Starland” moniker honoring the dairy’s heritage.

Today, the Starland District remains an eclectic haven where SCAD students, local artists and Savannah’s quirkier residents converge. It’s colorful, messy in the best way and delightfully rebellious. Between the murals, mismatched furniture on café patios and the unmistakable hum of creativity, this neighborhood feels alive in a way that’s entirely its own. Exactly what I was craving.

Highlights of the Starland District 

Starland Strange & Bazaar

📍 17 West 41st Street

“It’s less curiosity shop and more Anthropologie,” I told Duke as we peered through the window of Starland Strange & Bazaar, closed for the day (Monday, for those taking notes). Instead of shrunken heads and oddities, we spotted racks of stylish women’s clothing and tables with boho-chic housewares. And because Starland loves a quirky twist, there’s also an ice cream shop inside.

Graveface Records & Curiosities

📍 5 West 40th Street

Part record store, part curiosity shop, Graveface is a delightful Wonderland of vinyl and weirdness. The records I was interested in were all around $20 to $30), but it was the curiosities that grabbed our attention: vintage taxidermy, antique Ouija boards and other objects you can’t decide if they’re creepy or cute. It’s like stepping into your cool goth cousin’s attic. 

Note: The Graveface Museum, located across town and owned by the same guy, showcases a fascinating collection of horror-themed artifacts, vintage pinball machines and true crime memorabilia.

Flora and Fauna

📍 2401 Bull Street

This French-inspired café sits right on the corner and feels like a postcard come to life. The Jessica’s chicken salad sandwich was great, but let me tell you about Duke’s mushroom conserve baguette: earthy, savory, life-changing. It wasn’t just a sandwich; it was a spiritual experience. Pair it with a latte and one of their delectable pastries, and soak in the sunny, vintage vibes. It’s the kind of place where you make new friends standing in line and time seems to slow down (until you realize you’ve devoured the entire baguette in under five minutes).

Starlandia

📍 2438 Bull Street

Forget those fancy-schmancy overpriced art stores; this place is an artist’s paradise. Starlandia lets you buy and sell used art supplies, so it’s a treasure hunt every time. Brushes, paints, canvases, elastic to make bracelets — they’ve got it all, often for a fraction of the cost. I even found a stash of gently used books. Oh, and don’t forget to say hi to the tiny shrimp swimming around in their tank by the register. 

Lite Foot Company

📍 2400 Bull Street

Going green has never looked so stylish. We weren’t quite sure what the Lite Foot Company was — but we certainly didn’t realize it was a go-to for eco-friendly everything. Think reusable straws, biodegradable glitter and chic tote bags that state, “I care about the planet.” It’s the kind of place that makes you want to upcycle your life and live sustainably ever after.

The Wormhole

📍 2307 Bull Street

A dive bar with personality, the Wormhole is a no-frills spot where you can catch all sorts of live music, comedy or the occasional karaoke night. It’s the kind of place where the drinks are strong, the crowd is diverse, and the vibe is unpretentious. Their lineup is always surprising — one night, it’s punk rock, the next, stand-up comedians testing their material.

Arts Southeast

📍 2301 Bull Street

Carrying the Starland torch, Arts Southeast is a dynamic hub for the city’s creative community. Established in 2014 by local artists, it offers 26 private artist studios, the Ellis Gallery for rotating exhibitions, and the On::View Artist Residency, which provides artists with high-visibility studio space to engage with the public. This nonprofit organization is  dedicated to making Savannah a cultural destination, hosting community events like the monthly First Friday Art March, fostering a vibrant and supportive environment for both emerging and established artists.

Water Witch

📍 2220 Bull Street

Water Witch tiki bar, named after the ill-fated U.S.S. Water Witch — a Civil War-era gunboat with a reputation for attracting bad luck — channels its legendary spirit into bold cocktails and an unforgettable atmosphere. Whether you’re in the mood for a classic Mai Tai or something bold and original, this is where your taste buds get to travel. Soak in the island-inspired charm, perfect for date night or catching up with friends — no SPF required. 

The Vault Kitchen & Market

📍 2112 Bull Street

Housed in a renovated historic bank building, the Vault effortlessly blends industrial charm with sleek modern design. The menu is just as inspired as the setting, featuring everything from sushi rolls to dumplings to creative entrées that leave your tastebuds begging for more. Whether you’re here for the incredible cocktails or the vibe, the Vault delivers. Perfect for date night or a lunch with friends, this spot is as chic as it is delicious.

Stump

📍 1612 Bull Street

Plant lovers, rejoice! Stump is a boutique plant shop specializing in rare and gorgeous greenery. Whether you’re looking for a monstera that’ll take over your living room or a low-maintenance succulent, they’ve got you covered. The staff is knowledgeable, so even if you’re a notorious plant killer, they’ll set you up for success. 

Stump also offers First Friday workshops, where plant lovers can get hands-on tips for caring for greenery, create their own terrariums, or learn the art of plant styling in a fun and welcoming setting.

Woof Gang

📍 1601 Bull Street

If you’re traveling with a furry friend — or have a special dog in your life — this place is a must. Woof Gang offers gourmet treats (think dog-friendly cupcakes), premium toys and grooming services. It’s basically a day spa for your pet.

E. Shaver Booksellers

📍 1919 Bull Street

This bookstore is a reader’s paradise. The shelves are divided into well-curated sections, and there’s a small bar in the back serving coffee and cocktails. Bonus: It’s an annex of a historic gingerbread-style home, giving it an extra layer of charm. It’s the kind of place you’ll “stop by for five minutes” and emerge from two hours later with a pile of books and a latte (or prosecco) buzz.

They host a variety of monthly book clubs by genre, including sci-fi and fantasy, romance, mystery, graphic novels and even one devoted to Jane Austen.  

Additionally, their podcast, Pull Your Shelf Together, features co-owners Melissa Taylor and Jessica Osborne discussing their latest reads and offering book recommendations.

Foxy Loxy Cafe

📍 1919 Bull Street

A sister establishment to the bookstore, the café offers Tex-Mex-inspired bites, craft coffee and a selection of wines. What sets it apart is the spacious backyard, complete with twinkling lights and fire pits — perfect for sipping a cortado or enjoying their famous tacos al fresco. They often host live music and s’more-themed Fire & Wine Saturdays, making it a true community gem.

With Love Tattoo

📍 1917 Bull Street, Suite A

Most tattoo parlors embrace the edgy in their iconography, but this one leans into the cutesy. With Love Tattoo is where artistry meets ink. Known for its diverse team of talented artists, the studio specializes in creating custom pieces tailored to each client’s unique vision — whether you’re into delicate line work, bold traditional designs or intricate black-and-grey realism. The shop’s warm, welcoming vibe makes it as inviting for first-timers as it is for tattoo veterans. Even if you’re not ready for ink, the artwork on display is worth a visit.

Neighborhood Comics

📍 1205 Bull Street

Neighborhood Comics caters to hardcore collectors and casual readers alike, with a mix of indie comics, graphic novels and pop culture merchandise. The staff is passionate and always ready to help you find your next fave read. Quirky displays are set up throughout the store — Wally was particularly smitten with the one of Deadpool as Forrest Gump.

They also feature a monthly artist-in-residence program, giving local and visiting comic artists a space to create, showcase their work and connect with fans.

Henny Penny Art Space & Cafe

📍 1514 Bull Street

This family-friendly café is equal parts cozy coffeeshop and creative playground. There’s a full menu of specialty coffees and baked goods, including vegan donuts. They regularly host art classes for kids, so parents can sip a latte while their little ones explore their inner Picasso. The art on display is often created by local children, giving the place a sweet, community-focused vibe.

Star Attractions of Starland in Savannah 

Starland District is Savannah at its quirkiest and most creative. It’s a hood where every corner holds a surprise — and possibly a new friend. So skip the usual downtown haunts and come see what all the buzz is about. –Wally

Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo House-Studio Museum

The studio and home of prolific artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo at the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo wows as a striking example of 1930s Mexican modernist architecture. 

You definitely have to tour Casa Azul and Anahuacalli Museum — but this site is also worth visiting if you have time.

When Wally and I talk to friends about our travels in CDMX, the conversation often turns to the places we’ve seen, and the places on our list for our next trip. 

One of the places I’d been wanting to visit was the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera & Frida Kahlo, the former home and studio of two of the city’s most revered artists — though I’d argue that Frida has eclipsed Diego in fame since their deaths in the 1950s. It felt like a fitting comeuppance for how he treated her. But more on that later. 

“Whenever Frida wanted to visit Diego, she had to pull herself up an exterior floating staircase and cross a narrow footbridge.

Diego had specifically requested this to make it difficult for Frida to enter his studio (and see his adulterous dalliances). 

Their tumultuous relationship undoubtedly checked the “it’s complicated” box. ”

San Ángel: An Escape From the City

The historic house museum is located in San Ángel, an enchanting neighborhood southwest of Mexico City. Once a separate municipality, San Ángel served as a retreat for wealthy families who built grand country homes to escape the chaos of city life during the rise of the Industrial Revolution. Ancient lava flows shaped this rugged terrain, where its cobbled streets and colonial estates were eventually consumed by the ever-expanding sprawl of Mexico City.

Duke and Wally stand on the terrace by the walkway that connected Diego’s home to Frida’s.

We planned our visit to coincide with the Bazar Sábado, a weekly market held on Saturdays, where artists and artisans set up shop and sell their wares. 

Our Uber driver dropped us off at the museum’s entrance on Calle Diego Rivera. As we waited for our guide, we couldn’t help but notice valets dressed in traje de charro, the traditional attire of mariachis, running past us in pairs. They were undoubtedly heading to the entrance of the nearby San Ángel Inn to park arriving cars. Known for its restaurant, the historic inn is a favorite dining spot for both locals and tourists, especially on weekends.

O'Gorman's Mexican fence post cactus barriers (and modern aesthetic) pissed off his traditional neighbors.

Wally and I walked to the front of the property, which faces Avenida Altavista. In our opinion, the best view of the two buildings is from across the avenue. On the left is the big house, a boxy white and red structure with a distinctive sawtooth roof and water tanks, which once served as the residence and studio of the plus-sized muralist Rivera. 

It’s linked at roof level by a narrow walkway and contrasted by the little house, the vivid blue home on the right, which belonged to his unibrowed surrealist painter wife, Kahlo.

The building that now serves as the restrooms originally functioned as a darkroom for Kahlo’s father, Guillermo.

Not the Blue House: The History of Diego and Frida’s San Ángel Studio Home

When the site opened at 10 a.m., we met our guide, Fernanda, in the museum’s courtyard. She resembled a proto-punk Japanese schoolgirl, with her nose ring and dressed in a long-sleeve white shirt under a black sweater, grid-pattern miniskirt fastened with oversized buttons and shiny black loafers. Joining us were a couple from Alabama celebrating their pandemic-postponed honeymoon and a towering white-haired man on a business trip from Germany who had added a day for sightseeing. 

Before the tour began, Fernanda asked how many of us had visited Casa Azul, Kahlo’s family home in the boho Coyoacán neighborhood. She explained that a lot of visitors show up here thinking they’re about to see the Blue House.

“It’s important to understand the difference,” Fernanda explained, “because that’s the house where she was born and where she returned after divorcing Rivera in December 1939.” 

She continued, “Here, there isn’t much furniture — it’s more of a photographic history. But what makes this site significant is the architecture of these three buildings.”

Our charming tour guide, Fernanda, was an expert on O’Gorman, Rivera and Kahlo.

Kahlo only lived here for six years. The couple moved into the home in January 1934 after Rivera was essentially forced to return to Mexico following the controversy surrounding his mural at Rockefeller Center, Man at the Crossroads. The mural, which included a depiction of Vladimir Lenin, led the Rockefellers to order its destruction and terminate Rivera’s commission. Rivera later re-created the mural in Mexico City. This version, titled Man, Controller of the Universe, can be seen at the Palacio de Bellas Artes murals in Mexico City.

Kahlo and Rivera remarried in December 1940, a year after their divorce, at San Francisco City Hall in California; however, she never returned to San Ángel. Her declining health made it more practical for her to remain in the beloved house of her childhood, la Casa Azul, which now serves as a popular attraction. This house offers a comprehensive glimpse into her life, showcasing her furniture and personal belongings. Rivera, however, lived in the studio home until his death in 1957.

In 1981, the National Institute of Fine Arts (INBA) acquired the houses from Rivera’s daughter, Ruth Rivera Marín, and, after nearly 16 years of restoration, it opened to the public. And three decades later, INBA acquired the Cecil O’Gorman House and incorporated it into the museum campus.

You can imagine Juan O’Gorman’s bold modernist design didn’t go over so well with the neighbors, who lived in colonial-style homes.

Cecil O’Gorman House 

Thanks to his interest in sports, Juan O’Gorman was the first to discover that the pair of tennis courts belonging to the San Ángel Inn were for sale.

In 1929, the aspiring 24-year-old architect purchased the plot at 81 Las Palmas, now Calle Diego Rivera, using money he had earned as chief draftsman at Carlos Obregón Santacilla’s atelier. 

He then began constructing a revolutionary dwelling inspired by Swiss architect Le Corbusier, whose work he had studied at the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM). The design adhered to the principle that buildings should be created solely based on their purpose and function. 

Nearly a century later, the structure remains one of the earliest examples of functionalist architecture in Latin America. Its stripped-back, utilitarian design was radical for its time, standing in sharp contrast to the surrounding 18th century colonial homes.

An exposed concrete spiral staircase swirls up the side of O’Gorman’s house.

By 1930, O’Gorman had completed the Cecil O’Gorman House, which, according to his autobiography, he designed as a home and studio for his father. 

But that’s not the whole story. 

His father, the Irish painter Cecil Crawford O’Gorman, was an avid collector of colonial art and antiques. He already owned a spacious hacienda nearby and had no interest in downsizing to the modernist glass box that his son had built. In reality, it’s likely that O’Gorman designed the house to showcase his architectural ideas and intended it to serve as a prototype for low-income housing, though the project never came to fruition.

Elevated on pilotis, slender columns that raise the reinforced concrete structure off the ground, this innovative construction method eliminated the need for traditional load-bearing walls, allowing O’Gorman to incorporate an entire wall of articulated glass windows. 

Access to the second floor is provided by an external spiral staircase, but unfortunately, it was closed during our visit due to the installation of an upcoming exhibition.

We weren’t able to go upstairs in the O’Gorman House because they were setting up for a new exhibition.

Like Rivera, O’Gorman had socialist inclinations and sought to challenge the norms of his time. He wasn’t just building a home — he was making a declaration of functionalist design amid the traditional architecture that characterizes much of San Ángel.

The neighbors were said to be outraged, demanding that his architectural degree be revoked. 

The locals didn’t care for the home’s curb appeal, either. Enclosed by Pachycereus marginatus, a tall columnar cactus, also known as Mexican fence post cactus, and landscaped with agaves, it reflected the aesthetic of an indigenous Mexican village rather than the prevailing manicured European style.

Rivera, on the other hand, appreciated O’Gorman’s vision. He commissioned him to construct a similar pair of homes for himself and his wife, Kahlo, on the adjacent lot. 

A model of the property inside the O’Gorman House.

Inside, what formerly served as the dining room and kitchen now holds a glass case with a scale model of the trio of buildings as well as a series of photographs by Cristina Kahlo-Alcalá, Kahlo’s grandniece. Among the photos are images of the hospital gowns Kahlo wore during her stays at the American British Cowdray Hospital in Mexico City, on which she often used to wipe excess paint from her brushes while she painted.

These doodles became the mural Entre Filosofía y Ciencia by O’Gorman.

In 2012, the museum’s restoration team uncovered the sinopia, or preparatory sketch, for the fresco Entre Filosofía y Ciencia (Between Philosophy and Science) on a layer of lime plaster beneath where the completed mural by O’Gorman originally stood. The fresco was purchased by Banco Nacional de México in 1957 and, when it’s not traveling, can be found in the Museo Foro Valparaíso.

Recall that Frida had leg and back issues, and imagine her having to walk up and down this floating staircase onto her roof and then across the walkway to get to Diego’s house.

Frida and Diego’s Complicated Relationship 

After we exited the Cecil O’Gorman House, Fernanda directed our attention to the floating staircase perched on the exterior of Kahlo’s house. Its tubular steel handrail leads from the second floor studio windows to the rooftop terrace. We couldn’t believe anyone would have used those stairs — especially Kahlo, whose chronic health issues significantly impaired her mobility. 

As a child, Kahlo contracted polio, which left her right leg weakened and deformed. Then, as a teenager, she was in a horrific accident when the bus she was riding collided with a trolley car. The impact left her with a fractured spine, and a handrail pierced her body, entering through her back and exiting through her pelvis.

RELATED: 9 Fascinating Facts About Frida

Yet, whenever she wanted to visit Rivera, she had to pull herself up those stairs and cross the narrow footbridge. Rivera had specifically requested this particular feature from O’Gorman to make it difficult for Kahlo to enter his studio (and see his adulterous dalliances). 

Their tumultuous relationship undoubtedly checked the “it’s complicated” box. It was a marriage strained by mutual jealousy and infidelity. Rivera didn’t fit society’s standards of handsome — Kahlo nicknamed him el Sapo-Rana (Toad-Frog) — but his fame, confidence and charisma made him irresistible to many women. 

Tour groups meet in the small courtyard in front of Diego’s house.

Rivera’s House and Studio

In my opinion, the most fascinating part of the museum is Rivera’s house. It still contains some of the original furniture and artwork from when he lived there. 

The bedroom has a set of small windows high on the wall, which limited the amount of direct sunlight and helped keep the room cool. Next to the bed, there’s a pair of shoes, an enamel bedpan and a leather suitcase sitting atop the woven coverlet, awaiting its next trip. An articulated gooseneck task lamp and a small bust of Chairman Mao sit on the olive green-painted nightstand, with a watercolor landscape by Rivera hanging above it.

Diego’s bedroom

Like his bedroom, the studio was mostly left as it was at the time of Rivera’s death. The main section, with its double-height space, was perfect for large works and transportable murals. The design facilitated easy handling of the panels, allowing them to be moved in and out of the studio through the folding windows.

Our favorite pieces among the personal items were Rivera’s collection of larger-than-life cartonería (papier-mâché) figures. Known in Mexico as Judases, these brightly colored effigies, with features like oversized or abnormally small heads and stubby limbs, commanded the room with their massive presence. Originally, these figures were depictions of Judas Iscariot, the apostle who betrayed Jesus Christ. Rivera’s collection includes devils, skeletons and other fantastical creatures, which were traditionally burned, exploded or flogged on the Saturday before Easter. 

Some of Diego’s collection of papier-mâché Judases in his studio

Many of these larger-than-life-sized effigies were created by the Mexican folk artist Carmen Caballero Sevilla. One Holy Week, Rivera visited the Mercado Abelardo Rodríguez and was impressed with Sevilla’s Judas figures and invited her to work in his studio in San Ángel. (He admired the working class, which is why he often wore overalls.)

Cool metal skeletons covered the walls.

Diego collected handicrafts like these Judases.

Brushes and trays with reserves of dried paint remain exactly as Rivera had left them, offering a glimpse into his creative process. Among them were shelves with jars of pigments that reflect his color palette — including Paris Green, a highly toxic emerald green powder made from copper and arsenic. 

Diego’s paints line the shelves of his studio but have long since dried up.

There are bookcases filled with pre-Hispanic and indigenous folk art. On one of the easels was a painting of the Latin American actress Dolores del Río, who was rumored to have slept with both Rivera and Kahlo. 

Diego painted Dolores del Rio, a beautiful Latin American actress who is said to have slept with his as well as Frida.

Fernanda pointed out a papier-mâché torito, a little bull, hanging high above us. She explained that this tradition dates back to the mid 19th century. These creations are mounted on a kind of scaffolding that rests on the wearer’s shoulders, stuffed with fireworks like roman candles and bottle rockets, which are set alight as part of the annual festival in the town of Tultepec honoring Saint John of God, the patron saint of (what else?) fireworks makers. 

Sound dangerous? It sure is — but that didn’t stop Fernanda’s brother from participating in one. And he has the burns to prove it. 

Our group followed Fernanda up the staircase to the second floor, where we could take in a full view of the studio. Fernanda explained that this was the very spot where Kahlo discovered Rivera with her younger sister Cristina — an incident that became the proverbial last straw, which led to their separation and brief divorce. It wasn’t Rivera’s or Kahlo’s numerous indiscretions that caused the rift; it was the fact that Rivera was having an affair with her closest confidant.

Just off the landing, we entered Rivera’s private office, a space with a desk and a typewriter and additional bookcases filled with pieces from his prolific collection of pre-Hispanic artifacts, an obsession that can be seen at the Anahuacalli Museum in Coyoacán. 

Diego’s typewriter and some of the pre-Columbian artifacts he loved to collect.

From Rivera’s office, a door opened onto the rooftop terrace and the narrow bridge connecting his former residence to Kahlo’s. However, Fernanda quickly dismissed any thoughts of taking the infamous floating stairs. Instead, we followed her back through Rivera’s office and down the staircase to the courtyard below.

Frida’s house leaves much to be desired — but at least O’Gorman painted it the vibrant blue of her beloved family home, Casa Azul.

Kahlo’s House

Our group paused outside Kahlo’s house as Fernanda pointed out an interesting feature: a carnelian red painted garbage chute extending from the second floor, connected to a steel drum barrel. Its purpose? To collect kitchen waste.

By this time, the site had grown much busier, with dozens of visitors streaming in and out of the buildings.

The rooms inside Kahlo’s house were noticeably smaller and compact than those in Rivera’s, in large part because there wasn’t an open studio space. Unlike her husband’s residence, Kahlo’s house was devoid of decorative objects or furniture, leaving the space feeling even more austere.

The tiny kitchen exemplified functional design, featuring a concrete countertop with a gas cooktop, a small sink, and the opening of the chute that connected to the steel barrel outside. 

A man from Germany insisted Wally pose for a picture in his bright T-shirt to contrast with the blue of Frida’s house, next to the kitchen garbage chute.

We peeked into the modest bathroom, the very space where Kahlo’s 1938 oil painting, Lo que el agua me dio (What the Water Gave Me), was conceived. Fernanda told us that there weren’t any good spaces for Frida to paint in her home, so she chose the bathroom, which had better lighting. 

Frida’s home is small and dark, so she preferred to paint in the bathroom. One of her most famous works, Lo que el agua me dio, came from this period.

Wally paused in front of a framed letter that Kahlo had written to Hungarian-born photographer Nickolas Muray, with whom she shared a decade-long, on-again, off-again relationship, and read this poignant sentence aloud: “Please forgive me for having phoned you that evening. I won’t do it anymore.”

One of the glass cases in Kahlo’s house displays an open copy of the book Complete Anatomy of Man by Martín Martínez, and included a handwritten dedication from Kahlo to Dr. Juan Farill, the surgeon who performed seven spinal surgeries on her. 

The final room we explored was her small bedroom — a fitting conclusion to our visit. The room was concealed behind thick black drapery that we had to pull aside to enter. Inside, an installation by Cristina Kahlo-Alcalá features numerous lightboxes  illuminating Kahlo’s medical records from the American British Cowdray Hospital. The air in the room felt heavy and still, with the slow rhythmic sound of a heartbeat emanating from a hidden speaker. 

We knew beforehand about Diego and Kahlo’s turbulent relationship. But standing in the dark, claustrophobic space Diego had O'Gorman design as her home was a different kind of gut punch. It was hard not to feel the weight of it — the realization that someone as fiercely powerful as Kahlo could be confined like this by a man who claimed to love her. It really shook us, and we didn’t linger.

Our group poses under the entrance to Frida’s house.

Know before you go

We purchased tickets prior to our trip through a site called Tiqets. At $30 per person it’s definitely more than the $2 price of general admission, but we felt it was worth it. 

Our guide, Fernanda, was charming and incredibly knowledgeable, offering all the insights we could have hoped for about the site. She didn’t shy away from discussing the complexities of Rivera and Kahlo’s relationship either. And even though the tour was scheduled to last an hour, she stayed with us for an hour and 45 minutes, never once making us feel rushed.

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.

Admission is 40 pesos for adults, while children under 13 and seniors can enter for free. On Sundays, admission is free for everyone. –Duke

Floor-to-ceiling windows opened wide to allow transport of Rivera’s large-scale mural panels into and out of his studio. 

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo

Diego Rivera s/n
San Ángel Inn
Álvaro Obregón
01060 CDMX
Mexico

 

How to Celebrate Imbolc: Wiccan Ritual, Traditions and the Magic of Brigid’s Day

This Wiccan holiday marks the season of light, where renewal, inspiration and magic bloom as the first signs of spring begin to stir beneath the frost.

The world still slumbers under winter’s icy grip, but hints of change are stirring. The days, though cold, grow perceptibly longer. A fragile light dances across frosted fields, promising renewal. Somewhere, deep beneath the snow-covered earth, life begins its quiet return.

This is Imbolc, a sacred pause between the chill of Yule and the burgeoning energy of Ostara. It’s a time to kindle hope, purify the hearth, and honor Brigid, the Celtic goddess of fire, poetry and creation. Her spirit ignites the spark within us, encouraging us to shed the darkness and prepare for what’s to come.

“Imbolc reminds us that even in the coldest winters, warmth and light are waiting to emerge.

It’s a celebration of small, quiet beginnings — the first breath of spring.”

As the wheel of the year turns once more, Imbolc reminds us that even in the coldest winters, warmth and light are waiting to emerge. It’s a celebration of small, quiet beginnings — the first breath of spring.

The Meaning and Myth of Imbolc

Imbolc, pronounced “Im-bolk” or “Im-bolg,” derives its name from the Old Irish word for “in the belly,” symbolizing the pregnancy of ewes and the promise of new life. It marks the turning point when the earth begins to stir, and winter loosens its icy hold, making way for the first signs of spring.

At the heart of Imbolc is Brigid, the Celtic goddess of hearth and home, poetry and healing, fertility and fire. Known as a triple goddess, she embodies creation, transformation and inspiration. Legends say she was born with a flame rising from her head, forever tying her to the power of fire. For centuries, her sacred flame was tended by priestesses in Kildare, Ireland, representing eternal light and life.

Myths tell of Brigid’s transformative power: She turned water into beer (my kind of gal), healed the sick and inspired poets with her words. As a protector of livestock and bringer of fertility, she was revered by farmers and families alike. Even after Ireland’s Christianization, Brigid’s essence was woven into the figure of Saint Brigid, whose feast day on February 1 coincides with Imbolc.

Imbolc is also a time of purification and preparation, as people cleanse their homes, bless their hearths, and light candles to invite the sun’s growing strength. It’s a celebration of potential — aa sacred moment to honor the seeds lying dormant in the earth and within ourselves, waiting to bloom.

Imbolc Traditions Through Time

Imbolc carries with it the energy of renewal, light and quiet preparation for the coming spring. These traditions, passed down through centuries, offer both a nod to the past and inspiration for modern celebrations.

1. Lighting the Flame

The act of lighting candles or hearth fires is central to Imbolc, symbolizing the returning warmth of the sun and the goddess Brigid’s eternal flame. In ancient Ireland, hearths were relit as a symbol of cleansing and starting anew. Today, people light candles in their homes or place them in windows, creating a glow that mirrors the lengthening days.

2. Blessing the Hearth and Home

Traditionally, homes were purified as part of Imbolc rituals. Sweeping away the old, literally and spiritually, was a way to prepare for growth and prosperity. Modern spring cleaning practices might include smudging with sage, sprinkling saltwater, or reorganizing and decluttering spaces.

3. Divination and Weather Lore

Imbolc is a time for seeking guidance about the year ahead. In Celtic traditions, weather omens played a key role — similar to the modern custom of Groundhog Day. Watching the behavior of animals or observing flame patterns were common ways to divine whether winter’s grip would loosen. Candle divination, in particular, remains a popular way to connect with the energies of this season.

4. Honoring Brigid

As the goddess of fire, poetry and fertility, Brigid is at the heart of Imbolc. Her altar might include candles, seeds, white flowers or symbols of fire. Offerings of milk, honey or baked goods are made in her honor, while poetry or creative acts are seen as gifts to her essence.

Imbolc traditions encourage connection to the rhythms of nature and the spark of inspiration within, making this a deeply personal and transformative celebration.

Symbols of Imbolc

Imbolc is rich with symbols that reflect its themes of light, renewal and connection to nature. These symbols not only tie to ancient traditions but also inspire modern celebrations, making them versatile tools for rituals, altars or simple seasonal decorations.

1. Candles and Fire

Representing the growing light of the sun and the goddess Brigid’s eternal flame, candles are central to Imbolc. Fire symbolizes purification, inspiration and the spark of creativity that comes with the return of warmth.

2. Milk and Dairy

As a time when ewes begin to lactate, milk represents nourishment, fertility and abundance. Dairy products, like milk, butter and cheese, are traditional offerings to Brigid and reminders of the life-sustaining power of nature.

3. Seeds and Grain

Seeds symbolize potential and the promise of new growth. Grains, like oats and barley, represent sustenance and the cycles of planting and harvest. These are often included in rituals or placed on altars to honor the turning of the seasons.

4. Snowdrops and White Flowers

Snowdrops, among the first flowers to bloom after winter, embody hope and renewal. White flowers in general are associated with purity and Brigid herself, adding beauty and meaning to any Imbolc altar or space.

5. Brigid’s Cross

The cross, woven from rushes or straw, is one of Imbolc’s most iconic symbols. It represents protection, the four elements, and the turning of the seasons.

6. The Color White

White is associated with purity, cleansing and the snowy landscapes of this time of year. It’s often used in altar cloths, candles and flowers to reflect the themes of the season.

Imbolc Ritual: Casting a Spell for Inspiration and New Beginnings

At Imbolc, Wiccans can honor the first whispers of spring and cast a spell to awaken creativity, clarity and the promise of new growth. This spell draws upon the energy of Brigid, the goddess of inspiration, to kindle the spark within and set the stage for the year ahead.

What you’ll need:

• A white candle

• A bowl of milk or water 

• A sprig of rosemary

• A small jar of seeds

• A silver coin

• A small piece of green fabric or pouch

• A bell or chime

Step 1: Set the space.

Prepare your altar or sacred space with the items listed. Arrange the candle in the center and place the bowl of milk or water beside it. Scatter the seeds and rosemary around the bowl. Dim the lights, light incense, and play soft music to create a focused and magical atmosphere.

Cast a magic circle if you wish. Hold the white candle in your hands. Close your eyes and visualize its flame as a beacon of inspiration and hope. Light the candle and say:

Brigid’s flame, so pure and bright,
I call upon your guiding light.
Inspire my heart, my mind, my soul,
And help me make my spirit whole.

Step 2: Charge the seeds.

Take a pinch of seeds and hold them in your hands, focusing on your goals and dreams for the coming months. Visualize them sprouting into reality, nurtured by your efforts and Brigid’s blessings. Sprinkle the seeds into the bowl of milk or water while saying:

Seeds of potential, nourished and blessed,
Grow with abundance, bring me your best.
By earth and water, by sun and flame,
Bring forth the promise in Brigid’s name.

Step 3: Create a charm of inspiration.

Place the rosemary sprig, the silver coin, and a small handful of seeds into the green fabric or pouch. Tie it closed while focusing on the qualities you wish to invite into your life: clarity, creativity and prosperity. As you tie the charm, chant:

By this charm, I call to me
Creativity, prosperity.
By Brigid’s light, by fire’s glow,
Through this year, may inspiration flow.

Hold the pouch over the flame of the candle (without burning it) to infuse it with energy, then place it near your heart and visualize its power filling you with Brigid’s light.

Step 4: Seal the spell.

Ring the bell or chime to close the ritual, signaling to the universe that your intentions have been set. Hold your hands over the bowl of milk or water and say:

This spell is cast, this charm is true,
Blessed by Brigid’s flame anew.
The wheel has turned, my path is clear,
I walk with hope through this new year.

Dip your fingers into the bowl and anoint your forehead, hands and heart as a sign of cleansing and renewal.

Step 5: Close the circle.

Extinguish the candle, thanking Brigid and the elements for their guidance. Take the charm you’ve created and keep it near your creative workspace or carry it with you to inspire you throughout the season. Pour the milk or water into the earth, offering it as thanks to the land for its nourishment and potential.

Feasting for Imbolc

Feasting at Imbolc is a celebration of nourishment, fertility and the subtle shift toward spring. Traditional foods honor the season’s natural rhythms, focusing on simple, wholesome ingredients that reflect the energy of renewal and growth. Whether hosting a feast or preparing a small meal for yourself, these ideas connect to the spirit of the season.

1. Dairy Delights

Imbolc is closely tied to the lactation of ewes, making dairy a symbolic staple. Incorporate milk, cream, butter and cheese into your feast to honor Brigid as the goddess of fertility and nourishment. Consider dishes like:

• Creamy potato soup or leek and potato soup

• Freshly baked bread with homemade butter

• Cheesy casseroles or savory tarts

2. Warm Grains and Breads

Grains symbolize abundance and the promise of new growth. Baking bread is a traditional way to honor the hearth and Brigid, who is associated with fire and the home. Ideas include:

• Oatcakes or soda bread

• Barley or oat porridge sweetened with honey

• Seeded loaves to symbolize planting and fertility

3. Seasonal Vegetables

Root vegetables are perfect for Imbolc feasts, reflecting the connection to the earth’s stored energy and the first hints of new life. Serve roasted carrots, parsnips or turnips, or prepare a hearty stew featuring seasonal produce.

4. Sweet Treats

Honey and other natural sweeteners reflect the nurturing energy of the season. Create desserts that bring warmth and joy, such as:

• Honey-glazed scones

• Rice pudding with cinnamon

• Custards or panna cotta

5. Herbal Teas and Milk-Based Drinks

Infused drinks are a lovely way to conclude your feast, offering warmth and comfort. Consider:

• Chamomile or rosemary tea for clarity and calm

• Warm milk with honey and cinnamon for a soothing, symbolic nightcap

• Mulled cider or spiced wine for a celebratory touch

Creating a Feast for Brigid

Dedicate your meal to Brigid by setting a small portion aside as an offering. This can be placed on your altar or returned to the earth to honor the goddess and the cycles of nature. Light candles during your meal to reflect the growing light, and invite your loved ones to share their intentions or blessings for the year ahead.

Feasting at Imbolc is about more than food—it’s a moment to pause, nourish your body and spirit, and celebrate the promise of renewal in the turning of the seasons.

Crafting for Imbolc

Imbolc is a time to honor creativity and the spark of inspiration, making it the perfect occasion for hands-on crafting. Channel Brigid’s energy as the goddess of creation by making meaningful items that celebrate the season’s themes of renewal, protection and potential.

1. Brigid’s Cross

What you’ll need:

• About 16-20 pieces of straw, rushes (or yarn, strips of paper, pipe cleaners, etc. 

• Scissors

• Thread, string or rubber bandsSeeds symbolize potential and growth, making them a powerful tool for setting intentions.

Braiding a Brigid’s Cross is a traditional Irish craft often associated with Imbolc and the goddess Brigid. It’s made by weaving rushes, straw or other flexible materials into a distinct cross shape with a square center and four arms.

How to make it:

• Soak natural materials like straw or rushes in water for a few hours to make them more pliable.

• If using pipe cleaners or paper, ensure they are cut to equal lengths (about 10-12 inches).

• Start the center: Hold one straw vertically in your left hand. Fold a second straw in half and place it over the first, forming an “L” shape.

• Add the Alarms: Rotate the cross clockwise. Fold a third straw in half and lay it horizontally over the second straw, enclosing the vertical straw. Rotate again and fold a fourth straw over the last one.

• Repeat this process, rotating and adding straws until you achieve the desired thickness for the center.

• Secure the arms: Once the center is complete, you’ll have four arms extending outward.

• Group the ends of each arm and tie them tightly with string or rubber bands to hold the shape.

• Trim the ends to make them even. 

• Place the completed Brigid’s Cross on an altar, hang it above a door, or use it as a protective charm.

• Symbolism: The square center symbolizes balance and the hearth, central to Brigid’s domain. The four arms represent the elements (earth, air, fire, water) and the cyclical nature of life.

• Traditionally, the cross was hung in homes to invoke Brigid’s blessings and protection for the year ahead.

2. Seed Jars of Intention

What you’ll need:

• A small glass jar

• Seeds (for herbs, flowers or vegetables)

• Small slips of paper

• A pen

Seeds symbolize potential and growth, making them a powerful tool for setting intentions.

How to make it:

• Write your goals or wishes for the coming season on small slips of paper.

• Place the seeds in the jar, layering them with the slips of paper.

• Seal the jar and place it on your altar as a reminder of the intentions you’ve planted.

When the season is right, plant the seeds as a symbolic act of manifesting your goals.

3. Imbolc Candleholders

What you’ll need:

• Glass jars or small bowls

• Natural materials (twigs, dried herbs, ribbons)

• Glue or twine

• Tea lights or votive candles

These simple, decorative candleholders symbolize the growing light of the sun and Brigid’s eternal flame.

How to make it:

• Decorate the outside of a glass jar or bowl using twigs, dried herbs or ribbons.

• Secure the materials with glue or twine.

• Place a tea light or votive candle inside, and light it during your Imbolc rituals or feasts.

4. Rosemary Wreaths

What you’ll need:

• Fresh rosemary sprigs

• Floral wire or twine

• Dried flowers and ribbons

Rosemary is a traditional herb for purification and protection, making it a perfect addition to Imbolc crafting.

How to make it:

• Form a small wreath shape with the rosemary sprigs, securing them with wire or twine.

• Add dried flowers or ribbons for decoration if desired.

• Hang the wreath near your front door or in your sacred space to cleanse and protect.

Crafting as a Sacred Act

Crafting at Imbolc is a way to weave your intentions into tangible forms. Whether you’re making a Brigid’s Cross for protection or a seed jar to nurture your goals, these crafts connect you to the themes of Imbolc and the power of the goddess Brigid herself.

Embracing the Light of Imbolc

As the wheel of the year turns, the Wiccan holiday of Imbolc offers a moment to pause and honor the quiet transformations happening within and around us. It’s a time to kindle the first sparks of inspiration, to nurture the seeds of what’s to come, and to invite light and warmth back into our lives.

Whether through rituals, feasting, crafting or simply reflecting on the promise of spring, Imbolc encourages us to celebrate the potential of new beginnings. By embracing the season’s themes of renewal, creativity and connection, we align ourselves with the cycles of nature and the guiding light of Brigid.

As you step into the growing light of the season, may you carry with you the hope and inspiration that Imbolc brings. Blessed be. –Wally

The Genius of Mongol Warfare: Strategies That Conquered Empires

8 Mongol military tactics that changed how wars are fought, including false retreats, horse archers, siege technology, spies and propaganda. 

In the vast, wind-swept steppes of Mongolia, a handful of nomadic tribes evolved into one of the most formidable military machines the world has ever seen. Within just a few decades, the Mongols — once dismissed as primitive horsemen — would carve out the largest contiguous empire in history, stretching from the edges of Eastern Europe to the shores of the Pacific Ocean. At its height, the Mongol Empire covered nearly 12 million square miles, encompassing China, Persia, Russia and parts of the Middle East, with its influence even reaching Korea and Southeast Asia.

But their astonishing success wasn’t just a matter of brute strength. The Mongols were strategic masterminds, innovators in a world still clinging to outdated tactics. They wielded mobility like a weapon, turned deception into an art form, and mastered psychological warfare so effectively that their very name struck terror into the hearts of distant nations. 

“The Mongols rewrote the rules of warfare.

Their campaigns shattered the conventional strategies of the time, leaving entire civilizations scrambling.

But what truly set the Mongols apart was how they consistently turned the battlefield into a proving ground for innovation, efficiency and relentless adaptability.”

“Genghis Khan recognized that warfare was not a sporting contest or a mere match between rivals; it was a total commitment of one people against another,” writes Jack Weatherford in Genghis Khan and the Making of the Modern World. “Victory did not come to the one who played by the rules; it came to the one who made the rules and imposed them on his enemy. Triumph could not be partial. It was complete, total and undeniable — or it was nothing. In battle, this meant the unbridled use of terror and surprise. In peace, it meant the steadfast adherence to a few basic but unwavering principles that created loyalty among the common people. Resistance would be met with death, loyalty with security.”

The Mongol focus on precision, planning and an uncanny ability to adapt led to victories that reshaped the course of history. Let’s dive into the tactics that made the Mongol Empire from 1206 to 1368 an unstoppable force — and secured its place as one of history’s most dominant military powers.

1. Horse archers as the backbone

The open steppe: a vast, unforgiving expanse where the horizon blurs into the sky. The wind howls, carrying with it the distant thunder of hooves — faint at first, but growing louder, a storm of dust and fury heading your way. Before you can even catch a glimpse of your attackers, arrows begin raining down from the sky like lethal hail, striking with unerring precision.

This was the nightmare that armies across Asia and Europe faced when they encountered the Mongols. Unlike the heavily armored knights of Europe or the disciplined infantry of China, the Mongols fought as if they were part of the wind itself — swift, elusive and deadly. 

Their entire way of life had trained them for this. From childhood, Mongol boys were taught to ride with the skill of seasoned cavalrymen and to shoot with a deadly accuracy that could strike a sparrow mid-flight. But what made them truly terrifying was their ability to do both — racing across the battlefield at full speed with bows drawn.

No army wanted to face a horde of these warriors, with each solider armed with a composite bow, a weapon capable of firing arrows with greater force and at longer ranges than any bow of the time. The Mongols would circle their enemy, shooting while riding with such precision that no one within range was safe. 

Unlike conventional armies that moved in rigid formations, the Mongols attacked with fluid, ever-shifting maneuvers, swarming like a living organism. They were never where you expected them to be, always striking at your most vulnerable points.

It’s easy to see how traditional armies found themselves outmatched. Try to chase the Mongols, and they’d vanish into the distance, only to regroup and encircle you. Stand and hold your ground, and you’d be worn down by relentless waves of arrows. And this was just the beginning of their tactics — this merciless dance of speed and precision was merely the opening move in battles that would leave entire regions trembling in their wake.

2. Hit-and-run tactics and feigned retreats 

The battlefield is quiet — too quiet. Your forces stand on edge, gripping swords and shields, scanning the horizon for any sign of the Mongol horde. They’ve attacked twice already today, firing volleys of arrows before vanishing into the vast plains. Frustration simmers among your ranks. You know they’re out there, hiding just beyond sight, waiting for the perfect moment to strike again.

Suddenly, the ground begins to tremble, a distant rumble of hooves echoing through the air. There they are: a line of Mongol riders streaking toward you at breakneck speed, dust billowing behind them. Your archers scramble to prepare — but just as they aim, the Mongols turn and retreat, racing back into the open steppe. A cheer goes up from your troops — they’re running away!

But the retreat is a trap. What you don’t realize is that this maneuver is exactly what they want. As your forces give chase, emboldened by what they believe to be a fleeing enemy, the Mongols keep just out of reach, drawing you farther from your strong position. They’re leading you into a killing ground — a carefully chosen area where they hold every advantage.

Then it happens. The Mongols suddenly stop, wheeling around with the fluidity of a flock of birds, and a second group of riders bursts from a hidden position, flanking your forces. Arrows rain down in a deadly crossfire, and before you can even order a retreat, your ranks are in chaos. The “retreating” riders now charge back with renewed ferocity, encircling you on all sides. It’s no longer a battle — it’s a massacre.

This was the brilliance of Mongol hit-and-run tactics: the feigned retreat. Where traditional armies saw retreat as a sign of defeat, the Mongols turned it into one of their deadliest weapons. They understood human nature — how pride, fear and the desire for victory could be manipulated. Time and again, enemy forces were lured into pursuing what they thought was a vulnerable target, only to find themselves surrounded, overwhelmed and utterly crushed.

3. Spreading fear, rumors and propaganda

You’re a soldier stationed in a distant city, a place that until recently had felt like a secure fortress, surrounded by thick walls and defended by thousands. But now, unease grips the streets. The merchants whisper dark tales from travelers — stories of entire towns wiped off the map, of rivers running red with blood. The name on everyone’s lips is the same: Mongols.

You hear that when the Mongols approach a city, they send messengers ahead with an offer: Surrender or face annihilation. Those who resist are said to be shown no mercy: civilians slaughtered, leaders executed and survivors — if there are any — left alive just so they can spread word of the devastation to the next town. The stories are horrific, often exaggerated with every retelling, but that’s the point. Before the Mongols even arrive, their reputation arrives first, a shadow that stretches across hundreds of miles.

The panic sets in. You hear of entire armies fleeing without even putting up a fight, abandoning their posts at the mere rumor of Mongol scouts. Even among your fellow soldiers, there’s doubt. What if the rumors are true? What if the Mongols really are unbeatable? What chance do you have against an enemy that fights like a phantom, one that doesn’t just defeat armies but erases cities from existence?

The Mongols understood the power of propaganda better than any other force. They didn’t just wage war on the battlefield; they waged psychological warfare on entire populations. They would often exaggerate their numbers and the brutality of their tactics, knowing full well that fear could sometimes do more damage than arrows or swords. By the time the Mongols appeared at the gates, many cities had already lost the battle in their minds. The choice between surrender or certain death seemed all too clear.

In this way, the Mongols won countless victories without even lifting a weapon. Their enemies crumbled under the weight of their own dread, driven by stories that blurred the line between truth and myth. 

4. Siege warfare

The city walls loom tall and impenetrable. They’ve held back countless enemies before, giving the citizens within a sense of security. They’ve heard of the Mongols — how they devastate everything in their path — but they’re confident that these steppe warriors, known for their lightning-fast cavalry, won’t have the patience or the tools to crack these mighty defenses. 

But as the days stretch on, something unsettling begins to happen. Siege engines start appearing — massive trebuchets that hurl boulders with frightening precision, towers that inch closer every night and tunnels that seem to dig themselves under the city walls. The Mongols are even said to have thrown diseased corpses over walls to sow panic and chaos. 

Early in their conquests, the Mongols recognized that brute force alone couldn’t bring down the heavily fortified cities of China, Persia and Europe. So they adapted. They captured and recruited siege engineers from the civilizations they conquered, learning how to breach walls that had stood for centuries. 

The Mongols would also cut off all supplies to the city. Starvation and desperation would do the work for them, as defenders grew weaker and morale crumbled. Every siege was a calculated operation designed to break both the city’s defenses and its spirit.

The siege of Xiangyang in the 13th century is one of the most famous examples of Mongol tenacity. The city, a key fortress along the Yangtze River, was heavily fortified and seemed impregnable. But the Mongols weren’t deterred. After years of encircling the city and relentlessly attacking, they deployed new trebuchets built with the expertise of Persian engineers they had brought into their ranks. These trebuchets had longer range and greater power than anything the defenders had seen before. When they began firing, the walls that had withstood years of assault began to crumble. Once Xiangyang fell, the path to conquering southern China was wide open.

By the time news of a Mongol siege reached neighboring cities, panic often spread faster than the armies themselves. The fall of one fortress became a warning to the next, and with each victory, the Mongols solidified their reputation as an unstoppable force. Siege warfare allowed them to conquer the unconquerable, turning the cities that should have been their greatest obstacles into stepping stones for their ongoing conquest.

5. Use of spies and scouts

The sun dips low over the horizon, casting long shadows across the camp. As your army prepares for the next day’s march, there’s an uneasy tension in the air. You’ve heard the rumors — how the Mongols always seem to know every move you make, every weakness in your defenses, even the most secret paths through the mountains. It’s as if they’ve been watching you for weeks, perhaps months. The truth is, they have.

Long before the first Mongol arrow is loosed in battle, their spies and scouts have already done much of the heavy lifting. These agents, often disguised as merchants, travelers or even defectors, slip unnoticed into enemy territories. By the time a Mongol army arrives, they know everything: the strengths of your defenses, the locations of your food stores, the morale of your soldiers and the political tensions within your ranks.

This intelligence network is a vast, organized system. Mongol scouts map out entire regions, identifying the best routes for swift movement and the hidden vulnerabilities of their enemies. 

In the world of Mongol warfare, knowledge truly was power. Where other armies relied on brute strength or blind courage, the Mongols leveraged the hidden movements of their spies and scouts to outthink their opponents long before they clashed on the battlefield.

6. Rapid communication

The Mongol army moves like a shadow across the landscape — swift, coordinated and seemingly unstoppable. But what’s truly remarkable isn’t just their speed; it’s their ability to remain connected across the vast expanse of their empire. From the frozen forests of Siberia to the deserts of Persia, the Mongols maintain perfect coordination over thousands of miles. How? Through a means of communication incredibly advanced for its time: a system known as the yam.

Imagine being a messenger tasked with carrying critical orders across hundreds of miles of hostile terrain. You’re not traveling alone or unaided, though. As you gallop along the steppe, you know that every 20 to 30 miles, there’s a relay station — each stocked with fresh horses, supplies and guards. You ride at full speed to the next station, where you hand off your message to the next rider, who continues the journey without missing a beat. 

In a world where armies could take weeks to coordinate movements over long distances, the Mongols collapsed time and space. Orders that would take weeks to reach other empires were transmitted across the Mongol Empire in a matter of days. This rapid communication allowed them to stay unified, adapting to changing situations and striking with devastating precision.

7. Learning from conquered peoples

The Mongol Empire was a rolling juggernaut that devoured cities, kingdoms and empires. Yet, unlike many conquerors before them, the Mongols didn’t just take land — they took knowledge as well. As they moved across continents, they were like sponges, soaking up the best tactics, technologies and ideas from every culture they encountered. For the Mongols, wisdom could come from anywhere, and they knew that the difference between victory and defeat often lay in adapting and improving upon what others had already mastered.

The sophisticated siege engines Genghis Khan and his successors used weren’t Mongol inventions. They were borrowed, adapted and perfected from the Chinese and Persian engineers whose lives were spared to serve under the Mongol banner.

This ability to assimilate the skills and knowledge of conquered peoples was one of the most overlooked strengths of the Mongols. While other conquerors destroyed what they didn’t understand, the Mongols saw opportunity in every culture they encountered. Skilled craftsmen, scholars, engineers and even military experts were often spared, given new homes and tasked with serving the Mongol cause. 

Once they learned a new tactic or technique, they integrated it into their existing strategies, creating a flexible and formidable war machine that could handle pretty much any challenge.

This willingness to learn, adapt and evolve was a key factor in the Mongols’ success. Where other empires stagnated, the Mongols thrived by remaining open-minded and pragmatic. In doing so, the Mongols proved that the smartest way to dominate the world wasn’t just through force, but through understanding and adaptation.

8. Living off the land and rapid campaigns

The wind sweeps across the open plains, carrying with it the scent of dry grass and distant smoke. You’re a soldier in an army marching into unfamiliar territory, uncertain of what lies ahead. Supplies are dwindling, and every day feels like a struggle to keep your men fed and ready to fight. 

But across the field, the Mongol army seems unfazed. They move swiftly and silently, barely slowed by the lack of resources that would cripple any other force. How do they do it? How do they manage to keep their strength, their speed and their ferocity even in the harshest conditions?

The answer lies in their ability to live off the land. Unlike the lumbering armies of Europe or China, bogged down by supply chains and the need to carry provisions for weeks or months, the Mongols were masters of survival and self-sufficiency. They didn’t rely on vast wagon trains of food or endless lines of pack animals to feed their troops. Instead, they adapted to whatever environment they found themselves in, thriving in conditions that would break lesser armies.

Mongol warriors were raised on the harsh steppes, where survival meant knowing how to make the most of what little was available. They were trained to be self-reliant from a young age, and this ethos extended to their campaigns. The Mongols could cover vast distances with astonishing speed because they weren’t weighed down by the need to secure elaborate supply routes. Instead, they carried what they needed on their horses — dried meat, fermented milk and hard cheese — and when supplies ran low, they simply hunted, foraged or took what they needed from the land.

Mongol warriors could subsist on mare’s milk, often fermenting it into the drink known as kumis, and in dire situations, they could bleed their horses, drinking the blood, mixed with water, for sustenance. 

This ability to live off the land, coupled with their lightweight and durable supplies, made the Mongol army one of the most mobile forces in history. They rode at a pace that left their enemies reeling. 

The Legacy of Mongol Warfare

The Mongols rewrote the rules of warfare. From the vast plains of Mongolia to the fortified cities of Europe and the Middle East, their campaigns shattered the conventional strategies of the time, leaving entire civilizations scrambling. But what truly set the Mongols apart wasn’t just their ability to win battles; it was how they consistently turned the battlefield into a proving ground for innovation, efficiency and relentless adaptability.

Their mastery of speed and mobility made them the swiftest force the world had ever seen, while their psychological warfare broke enemy morale before the first arrow was ever fired. They used intelligence networks and rapid communication to stay steps ahead of their foes, creating an empire where information flowed faster than any army could march. And with their willingness to learn from every culture they encountered, the Mongols turned their enemies’ technologies and tactics into the bedrock of their growing power.

The Mongol Empire may have eventually fragmented, but the strategies they pioneered can be seen in modern military tactics and logistics. Even beyond warfare, from women’s rights to paper currency, Mongol innovations helped shape the modern world.

Demonized as an inferior race for centuries, the Mongols are finally getting the recognition they deserve. –Wally

From Freaks to Serial Killers: The Dark Wonders of Graveface Museum

Dive into a world of roadside oddities, taxidermy curiosities, cult memorabilia and chilling true crime tales — including the legacies of Ed Gein and John Wayne Gacy — at Graveface Museum.

The devil’s in the details: the iconic entrance to the Graveface Museum

If your idea of the perfect afternoon includes taxidermied animals, Church of Satan memorabilia, paintings made by a serial killer, and an arcade filled with vintage monster-themed pinball machines, then the Graveface Museum might just be your new happy place. Tucked away in Savannah, Georgia’s historic Byck building along the cobblestoned Factors Walk, this one-of-a-kind museum is a must-visit for enthusiasts of the macabre, the mysterious and the downright bizarre.

Originally, Duke and I had planned a day trip to Savannah with my mom, but she decided to sit this one out due to the blustery, cold winter weather. With just the two of us making the trip, we decided to explore some of the city’s more unusual shops and attractions. 

We took an Uber from Hilton Head, South Carolina and had the driver drop us off in the artsy Starland district. It was here among the shops that we stumbled upon Graveface Records & Curiosities, a combination vinyl and oddities shop founded by Ryan Graveface — a musician, record label owner and lifelong collector of all things peculiar. (Something tells me he would get along well with Ryan and Regina Cohn, whom we’ve dubbed the King and Queen of Oddities.)

After exploring the Starland district and other aspects of quirky Savannah, we made our way to Bay Street. The Graveface Museum is tucked away in the historic Byck building at 420 East Factors Walk, a cobblestone thoroughfare sandwiched between River Street and Bay Street. Keep an eye out: This hidden gem isn’t as obvious as the tourist stops along the river — but that only adds to its allure. 

The museum pays homage to all things creepy or unusual.

A Grave Undertaking 

The museum opened in February 2020 (right before the pandemic hit, gulp) as a passion-project-turned-immersive-experience. Given that Ryan’s last name is Graveface, an affinity for the macabre seems inevitable. With a mission to preserve and showcase the stranger aspects of history, he’s curated an eclectic mix of roadside attractions, true crime artifacts, cult memorabilia and secret society paraphernalia, among other peculiarities.

Highlights include the largest private collection of John Wayne Gacy’s paintings, artifacts from Ed Gein’s notorious crimes, and exhibits on topics ranging from Satanism to UFO cults. The museum also features a free pinball arcade, offering visitors a chance to unwind after exploring its darker displays.

The eclectic gift shop

Enter Through the Gift Shop

Your journey into the macabre begins in a gift shop that’s as offbeat as the museum itself. Part retail space, part curiosity cabinet, it’s stocked with horror-themed merchandise, oddities and hilariously gory painted movie posters from Ghana, Africa. It’s an appetizer for the weirdness that lies ahead.

Sunny days…with a side of terror: Ernie and Bert masks up front

The $25 entrance fee might seem a bit steep, but if you’re into all things weird, it’s worth it. The staff is brimming with enthusiasm, eager to share their knowledge of the unusual. With your ticket in hand, you’re ready to step into a world where the bizarre, the dark and the fascinating collide. Step right up — into the gaping maw of a bright red devil.

The first room of the museum houses medical oddities like the Spiderfawn.

The Tour Begins: Roadside Oddities

The first room welcomes you into a world of roadside curiosities — an homage to the kitschy, the creepy and the oddly endearing. Here, you’ll find displays of “freaks of nature”: a taxidermied faun with two heads and extra legs, and Clementine, a calf with five legs — a mix of biology gone awry and human fascination with the unnatural.

But not everything is what it seems. This room dives into the art of Homer Tate, nicknamed the “King of Gaffes” for devising grotesque, cobbled-together creations that once dazzled and duped carnival-goers, including a few variations of the infamous Fiji mermaid. Our favorite was the one called Fish Girl, which incorporated the red hair of Tate’s wife and a cat’s teeth. 

This Fiji mermaid is a hoax by Homer Tate, who used his wife’s hair and his cat’s teeth.

Apparently, Tate also produced shrunken heads — some fake, some real! — and was arrested for grave robbing. However, since he was the town sheriff, he didn’t spend have to worry about spending time behind bars.

Also in this first room are dioramas of taxidermied critters that reveal a peculiar Victorian obsession: crafting miniature scenes featuring preserved animals in quirky, anthropomorphic roles. These whimsical displays, once popular showpieces for the 19th century elite, straddle the line between charming and unsettling. Our favorite? A tiny circus featuring prematurely born kittens as the star performers — walking the tightrope, balancing on balls and delighting an imaginary crowd. What else would you expect from the generation that created death photography?

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Cute l’il Clementine was born with five legs. You can see the purple mirrored chamber about Heaven’s Gate and alien abductions.

Alien Abductions and Heaven’s Gate

From roadside oddities, you’re transported into a small, mirrored room that feels like stepping into another dimension. This space is dedicated to UFO lore, alien abductions, and one of the most infamous cults of modern times: Heaven’s Gate. A  video loop of its founder anchors the exhibit and offers a chilling glimpse into the cult, whose members believed they would ascend to an alien spacecraft trailing the Hale-Bopp comet. 

The room’s mirrors amplify the eerie vibe, reflecting the otherworldly artifacts and making you feel like you’ve entered a cosmic echo chamber.

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RELATED: Are there alien-human hybrids on Earth?!

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The mannequin on the right is of Anton LaVey, who founded the Church of Satan.

Satanism and Secret Societies

The next stop on our journey delved into the forbidden, the misunderstood and the hidden corners of belief systems. 

One room is dedicated to Satanism, with a focus on the Church of Satan and its theatrical founder, Anton LaVey, whose philosophy challenged societal norms and fueled decades of controversy. Sexual liberation played a major part in LaVey’s teachings, and he encouraged members to embrace it. LaVey contended that living in a society in which we repress our natural urges and instincts results in unhappiness. 

From there, we entered a room dedicated to Christianity and secret societies like the international Order of Oddfellows. Artifacts from these groups reveal a fascinating interplay between faith, ritual and mystery. 

The juxtaposition of these belief systems — one often feared and the other foundational to Western culture — invites you to ponder the fine line between the sacred and the profane.

Stop and play some pinball to prep yourself for a (serial) killer ending.

The Pinball Arcade

Just when the heavy, dark vibe starts to settle in, the museum offers a much-needed breather: a room filled with vintage pinball machines. It’s a welcome shift in atmosphere, adding a playful, nostalgic charm to the experience.

Of course the lineup features creepy classics like The Addams Family, Dracula, and Halloween, a perfect nod to the museum’s macabre aesthetic. Best of all? These machines are free to play. Whether you’re a seasoned pinball wizard or just looking for a moment to decompress, this quirky arcade is the perfect palate cleanser before diving back into the dark history waiting around the corner.

This macabre display is a re-creation of Ed Gein’s final murder, where he decapitated a woman’s head and mutilated her genitals.

Haunted House: Ed Gein’s World

From pinball nostalgia, you’re thrust into the unsettling world of Ed Gein, aka the “Butcher of Plainfield” — a man whose gruesome crimes blurred the line between true crime and urban legend. The guided tour through Gein’s macabre legacy busts some of the myths that have grown around his name. No, there weren’t lampshades made of human skin or a “nipple belt.” (Gein didn’t even have electricity, and that infamous accessory was a hoax made out of latex.) But yes, he really did use skin to upholster the seat of a chair, and he carried around a nifty keychain made from a piece of his mom’s scalp and hair. 

Ed Gein inspired numerous villains in horror movies, including Psycho, The Silence of the Lambs and The Texas Chain Saw Massacre.

Gein, who robbed graves and murdered two women, is the inspiration for countless fictional killers, from Norman Bates to Buffalo Bill and Leatherface. The exhibit doesn’t flinch in showing the grisly details, including a diorama of his final victim. She’s depicted hanging upside down, her head cut off, and her genitals mutilated, revealing the true depravity of his crimes. This was to me the most disturbing aspect of the museum. 

We followed our guide up a staircase lined with grisly black and white crime scene photos of mob hits that reminded me of the work of Weegee. 

And yet, as shocking as it all is, there’s something oddly captivating about Gein himself. The small town simpleton obviously had horrific hidden depths. 

John Wayne Gacy dressed up like a clown…when he wasn’t torturing and murdering young men and boys.

Upstairs: John Wayne Gacy’s Disturbing Legacy

Climbing the stairs to the section dedicated to John Wayne Gacy, the infamous “Killer Clown,” felt like stepping into an even darker realm of horror. In this room, our guide, her tuna fish can earrings jangling as she spoke, recounted the grim tale of Gacy. He was a seemingly ordinary married man from suburban Norwood, Illinois, who, during the 1970s, tortured, sexually assaulted and murdered (not necessarily in that order) 33 boys and young men. Gacy's preferred method of killing was strangulation, chillingly referred to as his "rope trick." 

One wall of the museum is dedicated to the faces of Gacy’s known victims — a haunting tribute to the young men whose lives he stole. Seeing their photos lined up, it’s impossible not to picture the unimaginable horrors they endured.

Many of Gacy’s paintings were of the Seven Dwarves — a reflection of a childhood obsession

But what sets this room apart is the strange, surreal focus on Gacy’s art. Displayed prominently are his original paintings, including a series of the Seven Dwarves (Snow White is notably absent). Gacy’s clown paintings are equally unnerving, given his former role as a community entertainer in full clown getup.

A list of prices reveals that back in the 1990s, you could pick up a Gacy painting for a mere 100 bucks (or $270 nowadays). Today, their value has skyrocketed as collectors clamor for a piece of true crime infamy — a disquieting reminder of our society’s fascination with killers.

Keep an eye out for a documentary the Graveface gang is working on about Gacy. 

Wally put his best freak on to try out to be a permanent exhibit at the Graveface Museum.

A Must-See for Oddities Enthusiasts 

The Graveface Museum isn’t for the faint of heart — if you’re squeamish or prefer your history without a macabre twist, it’s best to give this one a pass. But for those intrigued by the intersection of the bizarre and the dark, it promises a one-of-a-kind experience.

From taxidermied curiosities and cult artifacts to the unsettling tales of Ed Gein and John Wayne Gacy, the Graveface Museum balances horror with history, never veering into exploitation, but refusing to shy away from the unsettling truths of human nature And let’s not forget about the free pinball!

Whether you walk away fascinated, haunted or simply grateful for the ordinary comforts of your own life, one thing is certain: The Graveface Museum will stick with you long after you’ve left its eerie halls. –Wally

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SEE ALSO:
The Oddities Flea Market

Death masks and other delights!

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The Deets

When yoiu see Freemasons’ Hall, you’re close. Find the fittingly creepy Lower Factors Walk between Bay and River.

Location

The Graveface Museum is tucked away at 410 East Lower Factors Walk, a strange little in-between street near Savannah’s waterfront. It’s not quite street level and not quite below it, but rather a cobblestone thoroughfare sandwiched between River Street and Bay Street. 

If you’re driving, nearby parking can be tricky, so plan ahead or prepare to walk a bit.

Admission
Tickets cost $25 per person, which includes access to all exhibits and the free-play pinball arcade. 

Hours of Operation
Monday through Saturday: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Sunday: 12 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Hours may vary, so it’s always a good idea to check their website or call ahead before visiting.

Graveface Museum

410 East Lower Factors Walk
Savannah, Georgia 31401
USA

Middle Eastern Food and Culture in NYC

From vibrant festivals to hidden culinary gems, New York City celebrates Middle Eastern heritage with a rich mosaic of food, music and tradition.

Walking through New York City can feel like traveling through a world atlas, and nowhere is that more evident than in the way this metropolis serves up Middle Eastern culture. From the spice-laden dishes of Astoria’s bustling streets to the honey-drenched baklava beckoning from Brooklyn bakeries, the city is steeped in rich flavors and stories that stretch across continents. But where should you start, when the options are as expansive as NYC itself?

“NYC offers a Middle Eastern experience that goes far beyond food.

It’s a tapestry of culture — woven with spices, songs and stories — that invites you to take a bite, sip or step into its world. ”

A Middle Eastern Culinary Tour of NYC

Astoria, Queens is the heartbeat of this culinary journey, offering everything from Palestinian musakhan (spiced roast chicken served on flatbread) at Al-Sham to Egyptian koshari (layers of rice, lentils and macaroni, topped with a spicy tomato sauce and fried onions) at Mum Feteer And don’t miss the quirky Kabab Cafe, where Chef Ali’s grilled lamb chops — and his lively personality — are equally unforgettable.

Across the East River, Manhattan’s West Village holds treasures like Mamoun’s Falafel, where tipsy late-night revelers have savored falafel sandwiches since the ’70s (a steal at $3.50). 

Over in Brooklyn, Tanoreen in Bay Ridge turns Palestinian classics into contemporary works of art under the expert hand of Chef Rawia Bishara. Yemen Café & Restaurant is another Brooklyn favorite, offering fragrant mandi rice (spiced, with slow-cooked meat) and warm, crusty flatbread. 

Festivals and Events: Celebrating Middle Eastern Heritage Year-Round

Every April, Arab American Heritage Month lights up NYC with events like the Arab American Bazaar in Brooklyn, where the scent of donutlike ka’ak rings fills the air as dabke dancers draw crowds into their rhythmic spell. The New York Arabic Orchestra’s hauntingly beautiful performances bring centuries-old melodies to life, leaving audiences entranced.

Even Broadway nods to this heritage — score Aladdin the musical tickets, and you’ll find yourself exploring how tales like The Arabian Nights have woven themselves into Western culture. With its riot of color and clever wordplay, Aladdin is a vibrant reminder of the Middle East’s influence on global storytelling.

Markets and Meze: Where to Shop for Authentic Ingredients

If cooking is your love language, NYC’s Middle Eastern markets are your playground. Sahadi’s on Atlantic Avenue reigns supreme, with barrels of olives and stacks of Turkish delight ready to inspire your next mezze spread. 

In Manhattan, Kalustyan’s spices up any recipe with saffron from Iran and lentils from Turkey, while Astoria’s Aladdin offers freshly baked pita and tangy shanklish cheese. 

And head to Little Egypt in Queens for halal meats and speciality store items like spicy harissa sauce and molokhia leaves.  

Shopping at these markets is an adventure. Vendors chat animatedly in Arabic, the air is filled with the warm scent of cardamom, and if you’re lucky, you might leave with a free sample of gooey kanafeh.

The Coffee Culture: Sipping Traditional Arabic Coffee in NYC

Arabic coffee is a ritual. In NYC, that tradition finds a home in coffeehouses, where emphasis is placed on both the brew and the experience. This is just the opposite of the takeout attitude held by most New Yorkers, who find Arabic coffee requires one to sit, sip and savor it. 

The coffeehouse is a communal space where news is exchanged, arguments are hashed out, and laughter rings in the air. 

Steinway Street in Astoria — Manhattan’s Little Arabia — is lined with cafés like Al Sham, where patrons linger over cardamom-infused brews paired with sticky baklava. 

In Brooklyn, Layla blends modern aesthetics with tradition. Order an Arabic coffee and a basbousa semolina cake, and you might just end up in a spirited conversation with the barista. 

These coffeehouses act as hubs of connection and culture — and perhaps all that caffeine is how New York earned the nickname the City That Never Sleeps.

From Spices to Stories: Savoring the Soul of NYC’s Middle Eastern Culture 

From the fiery flavors of musakhan to the rich brew of Arabic coffee, NYC offers a Middle Eastern experience that goes far beyond food. It’s a tapestry of culture — woven with spices, songs and stories — that invites you to take a bite, sip or step into its world. 

Whether you’re chasing falafel in the West Village, wandering through a spice market or settling in with a finjan of coffee, you’re experiencing more than just the cuisine. You’re savoring history, community and the vibrant soul of a culture that continues to shape New York City in countless ways. –David Fox