Casa Antonieta: A Tranquil Oasis in Oaxaca Centro

This boutique hotel in Oaxaca has all the comforts of home — plus a spectacular rooftop terrace.

The open-air lobby of the hotel. The second floor is currently being built out.

Over time, as I do research on upcoming trips, I’ve come to learn what Wally and I appreciate the most when staying abroad. Or should I say what I like — and Wally ends up being pleasantly surprised by? In the end, a lot depends on location, budget, how you travel, what kind of comfort you’re looking for and, of course, style. I’ve got one main rule: Find a place within walking distance of sites and shops that delivers a well-rounded travel experience versus a mere hotel stay. In Oaxaca, that was Casa Antonieta. 

Duke on the terrazo — our favorite spot at Casa Antonieta

Wally enjoying a glass of wine at the end of another fun day

Casa Antonieta: To Grandmother’s House We Go

When Wally and I arrived at check-in, we were warmly greeted by concierge Ana Jiménez. Our luggage was whisked away and taken to our room, and we were served refreshing glasses of rosemary- and lemon-infused water and freshly baked cookies.

As I took in the tranquil interior courtyard with its gracefully arched and symmetrical arcades, it reminded me of the ones we had seen in traditional Moroccan riads. Clearly the Spanish conquistadors brought this design to Mexico, influenced by the Moors, as the design is well-suited to hot weather, promoting natural ventilation and shade from harsh sunlight.

“ A large part of Casa Antonieta’s appeal is that it’s close to the action but far enough away from the bars to get a good night’s sleep.”

Casa Antonieta is located on a quiet stretch of Calle de Miguel Hidalgo, a short distance from the Zócalo, the historic center and public square of Oaxaca city. Tucked between the Fundación Alfredo Harp Helú and the Oaxaca Textile Museum, Casa Antonieta started life as a convent but became a mansion in the 1890s. Its name comes from Edificio María Antonieta, after the hotel’s founder Helwig George’s grandmother. A large part of its appeal to me was that it’s close enough to the action but far enough away from the bars and club scene to get a good night’s sleep.

The hotel is built around a central courtyard, much like a Moroccan riad.

In fact, Casa Antonieta is the perfect accommodation for exploring Oaxaca city’s historic quarter, restaurants, bars and shops. As you wander the cobblestone streets of Oaxaca Centro, you will undoubtedly find a variety of brightly colored Mexican Baroque, Neoclassical, Art Nouveau and more than a few neglected French and Spanish Colonial relics — one of which had a prominent banner announcing, “No Se Vende,” meaning the building is not for sale, in case you were wondering.

Our bedroom at Casa Antonieta — the woven rattan headboard evoked shelter and seclusion.

A Solid Foundation as a Convent

The boutique hotel was conceived by George, who worked with Mexico City architect Mariana Ruiz of At-te to refurbish and reimagine the property. Embracing its historic roots, the hotel has stayed true to the character of the original building, with the added bonus of modern amenities. George came up with the idea for Casa Antonieta in 2017, and the hotel opened its doors to welcome guests in April 2018. It stands on the site of the former 17th century Franciscan Convent of San Pablo. In 1911 it became a private single-story residence, and a short time after, a second floor was added.

George’s grandfather purchased the building in the ’70s, adding two additional floors and giving the building its name. 

“When he passed away, my mother, aunt and uncle each inherited a floor,” George told us. 

The hotel currently offers nine rooms, with plans to add seven more on the second floor. Ruiz collaborated with Mexican artisans, using local and natural materials where possible, such as the light-colored macuil wood and rattan. Walls are covered in an earthy hand-applied ecru-colored clay plaster, exuding a warm, rustic feel. 

Room 15 was our home away from home.

The quaint kitchenette with its macuil wood

We stayed in room 15, which was located on the third floor. Our elegant room featured terrazzo floors, custom-built furniture and doors made with tropical hardwood indigenous to Southern Mexico. Lighting was designed by Taller Lu’um, a studio that collaborates with Mexican artisans. I also admired a wool rug made by Zapotec weavers in the nearby village of Teotitlán del Valle and conceived by Oaxaca-based studio Rrres.

The galley-style kitchen had open shelving with a potted succulent in a green glazed pot from Santa María Atzompa, and a few utilitarian barro rojo (red clay pottery) vessels from San Marcos Tlapazola. Both villages are close by and would make a good day trip. 

The spa-like bathroom featured a floating countertop and shelf of macuil wood and a rain shower edged by river rock drainage. 

Start your day on the terrace and end it there, as well, when the space becomes the bar Amá.

Golden hour on the rooftop is a good spot to take a new Tinder profile pic.

In the lobby, you can get lost in your thoughts, peruse the hotel’s collection of art and photography books, or simply enjoy sipping a latte from Muss.

Elsewhere, greenery further enhances the property’s tranquil atmosphere and creates a visually striking space. 

Order breakfast at Muss…

…and enjoy it on the terrace.

Before heading out for the day, we enjoyed breakfast on the sunny rooftop terrace with views of the city and surrounding mountains. At night the rooftop transforms into Amá, which serves up expertly crafted cocktails and light bites. Wally and I recommend the roasted cauliflower steak with smoked pasilla chile rub. Plus, there’s a shop within the bar where you can purchase a selection of artisanal objects from the surrounding villages without having to leave the city.

Get a cold brew to go.

The popular coffeeshop that’s part of the hotel

the Buzz-worthy Muss Café

The hotel also contains a cool little café named Muss, which can be accessed from the lobby. The name of this “younger sibling” of Casa Antonieta comes from an adjective that means something like “tousled” or “organized mess” — which is exactly how we feel until we have our morning caffeine fix. Popular with locals and guests of the hotel alike, Muss offers great coffee and food. Their cold brew was one of the best that I had in the city. When I mentioned this to the charming concierge Javier Guzmán, he smiled and conspiratorially told me that they grind the beans with cacao nibs.  

Casa Antonieta was a welcome refuge for us to return to after a full day of adventures within and outside of the city. The concierge team was always happy to share recommendations and arrange transportation for us when needed. If you’re searching for a great home base and unforgettable stay in Oaxaca Centro, look no further. –Duke

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The unassuming façade of Casa Antonieta belies the lush interior.

Casa Antonieta

Miguel Hidalgo 911
Centro
68000 Oaxaca de Juárez
Oaxaca
Mexico

 

Where’s the Best Breakfast in Puerto Vallarta?

Three of our favorite brunch restaurants — plus the best coffee in PV.

The offerings at our fave coffeeshop in PV, Puerto Café

Part of the fun of a trip for me is the research before. This includes looking for potential places to eat, especially breakfast. You know what they say: Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. 

Read on to find out our top recommendations for Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. 

“We jokingly lamented that we missed the Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. ”

Relax and enjoy a delicious and healthy(ish) breakfast at Cálmate Café. Wally got the chilaquiles.

1. Cálmate Café 

We ate here twice twice during our short stay in Puerto Vallarta, once for breakfast and once for lunch. Both times the food was delicious. Their menu offers a variety of healthy meal options as well as coffee, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies. 

We liked that it was outside of the main tourist tract and had a relaxed neighborhood vibe. The first time we had breakfast here, we arrived shortly after the streets had been washed. The cobblestones were still glistening in the sunlight, and we watched the morning unfold as we ate. The café lives up to its name, which can be translated as “take it easy.”

I ordered the eye- and mouth-pleasing yogurt and granola with fresh fruit and Wally ordered one of his go-tos: chilaquiles.

The outdoor seating area is small but cozy, and the servers were friendly. Plus, we got to pet a seemingly endless parade of dogs. 

Why sit in the crowded restaurant when you can dine on the sidewalk patio?

Cálmete Café
Calle Honduras 218
5 de Diciembre 
48350 Puerto Vallarta 

Fredy’s Tucán, a breakfast staple in the Zona Romántica

2. Fredy’s Tucán

Located on Basilio Badillo in the heart of the Zona Romántica, aka Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka one of the most gay-friendly areas on the planet), this popular breakfast spot is a well-oiled machine. Fredy’s originally opened in 1983 as an open-air bar and evolved into the restaurant it is today. 

There’s a reason tourists flock here. The servers are attentive, the food is well-priced — and did I mention it’s also delicious? On offer for breakfast are waffles, omelets, pancakes and Mexican dishes like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. Plus, how can you say no to the charming older man offering you a selection of freshly baked pastries to start your day?

When we left, satisfied and ready to explore, there was a queue outside to get in. Trust us, you won’t leave hungry. 

Fredy’s Tucán
Basilio Badillo 245
Emiliano Zapata
8380 Puerto Vallarta

When in doubt, order the breakfast sandwich.

3. Bistro at Casa Cupula

Nestled in the hills among the tropical greenery of the Amapas neighborhood of PV is the gay-owned, LGBTQ- friendly boutique hotel, Casa Cupola and its onsite restaurant, Bistro at Casa Cupola. The lush setting reminded me of our visit to the spectacular Botanical Gardens earlier in the trip. 

It’s a steep climb up Callejón de la Igualdad but certainly worth it. (You could also bypass the hike and catch an Uber or cab there.)

You enter through a separate entrance for the bistro, which is located farther up the road. We arrived shortly after the restaurant opened and were seated on the sun-dappled patio as ceiling fans spun lazily overhead. Our server was attentive and the food delicious. We felt like we were in our very own private hacienda. 

We jokingly lamented that we missed the hotel’s Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. 

A peaceful breakfast on the deck in the hills just outside of PV at Casa Cupola.

Bistro at Casa Cupola
Callejón de la Igualdad 129
Amapas
48398 Puerto Vallarta 

We liked the small medicinal-looking bottles the Puerto Café cold brew comes in so much we took one home.

4. Puerto Café 

Hands down, this was our favorite spot to get our caffeine fix. This hip, cozy coffeeshop serves the best coffee in town. It’s located on Calle Morelos, not far from the seaside Malecón promenade — kitty-corner from the black and white lighthouse they use in their logo. When we were there, someone had scrawled, “Fuck Digital Nomads” on the wall at the front of the space and good music spun on the turntable.

I loved their delicious (and potent) housemade cold brew coffee. Each serving comes in its very own small brown bottle like something a snake oil salesman would peddle. They also make a solid iced latte, which Wally enjoyed.

Part of what makes Puerto Café so special is the coffee they serve. All varieties are by Guadalajara-based Café Estelar, a specialty roaster that proudly works directly with regional producers to offer single-origin Mexican coffee beans. 

Just make sure to get there earlier in the day if you appreciate cold brew, as they produce it in limited batches daily and had run out on one of our visits. –Duke

With great local coffee and a cool vibe, Puerto Café is a fun spot to escape the heat and get your caffeine fix.

Puerto Café
Morelos 540
Proyecto Escola
Centro
48300 Puerto Vallarta

Sip and Savor at Seniman Coffee in Ubud

Looking for the best coffee in Bali? Check out this stylish coffeeshop and learn about third wave coffee — as well as what’s next in coffee culture.

Get your java fix in Ubud at the trendy Seniman Coffee Studio.

For Wally and me, one cup of coffee is never enough. And if you follow our blog — a big thank you to those who do — you’re probably already familiar with my borderline obsessive research when planning a trip. I like to find the hidden gems. 

Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud, Bali was one of those discoveries. I first read about them on Sprudge, a media network dedicated to global coffee culture. After reading contributing writer Evan Gilman’s vivid article, I was determined to seek out Seniman on our visit to the Indonesian island.

Seniman specializes in single-origin local coffee beans.

When we arrived at the café, tucked away at No. 5 on quiet Jalan Sri Wedari (jalan is the Indonesian word for street), I felt like we were in the know. Seniman Coffee Studio is clearly a popular spot. The café was buzzing with tourists, locals and digital nomads, a few who were working on their laptops or simply daydreaming — which isn’t hard to do once you find yourself perched on the open-air verandah after spending an afternoon exploring Ubud. 

The coffee flavor wheel…in Indonesian.

Reinventing the Wheel

Inside the café, a row of perfectly lit siphon coffee brewers looked like they belonged in a chemistry lab. To help you decide what to order, a hand-drawn coffee taster’s wheel diagram on the wall describes the flavor profile and intensity of each roast. Seniman specializes in light roast single-origin Indonesian coffees. I’m a fan, as this method allows the beans to retain moisture and oils, which in my opinion, yields a less acidic, more complex and aromatic cup.

Part of the current coffee culture is telling the story of each type of bean.

A Brief History of Coffee in Indonesia

Coffee was first introduced to Indonesia by the Dutch in 1699. Arabica coffee trees were imported and cultivated on estates in Java, giving rise to the Dutch East India Company and the coffee trade. Fast forward to what’s referred to as the third wave movement, where consumers have become interested in the provenance, production and experience that comes with enjoying a quality cup of coffee. Long gone are the days when the best part of waking up was Folger’s in your cup.

This graphic can help you figure out what to order.

In Indonesia, the third wave came down to the arrival of Starbucks, according to Rodney Glick, owner of Seniman. “Starbucks’ history in this country is completely different to its history in America, as by the time it entered the Indonesian market, the company was already 20 years old,” Glick explained. “Starbucks’ role wasn’t to champion Indonesian origins in Indonesia, but nevertheless it helped create consumer awareness that coffee comes from a place and not a sachet.”

The coffee industry has now moved into the fourth wave, or as Glick prefers to call it, the new wave. The focus is on telling the story of the entire coffee chain. “The coffee industry’s new wave encompasses innovative approaches, acknowledges traditional histories and celebrates regional differences,” he said. “More coffee stories are told by the producers themselves, entailing their own challenges and creative solutions.”

Take a break and get a caffeine fix along Jalan Sri Wedari.

Seniman: Our Spot in Ubud

On our first visit to Seniman, I tried an iced cascara, made from the dried leathery husks of coffee cherries, while Wally stuck with his old standby: an iced latte. A cascara sounded exotic, but to be honest I wasn’t the biggest fan. It’s a bit watered down, tasting closer to tea than coffee, and if you’re expecting a cup of coffee, cascara doesn’t cut it. On our two subsequent visits, I ordered the cold brew and wasn’t disappointed. 

The cascara was a bit too much like a weak tea for Duke’s tastes.

When you order, a wooden plank with three segments gets delivered to your table. One contained coffee, the second a glass of water in an upcycled green glass wine bottle with the bottom as a lid and a small vessel with simple syrup as a sweetener. In the space between, there was a sweet — my kind of place! 

The drinks come on colorful paddles with slots for simple syrup and a sweet treat.

Glick, an Australian expat, founded Seniman Industries in 2009 with the objective to create a laidback brand informed by the serious pursuit of coffee. Everything at Seniman Coffee Studio is artfully prepared and presented — and Glick is a sculptor himself — so it makes sense that in Bahasa Indonesian, seniman means “artist.” (Be sure to check out Glick’s interesting sculptures, which take contemporary figures and infuse them with Hindu and Buddhist elements.)

The siphons look like something out of a steampunk laboratory.

At Seniman, coffee is brewed manually by siphon, pour-over, chemex or hand-drawn espresso to extract the optimal flavor from the beans. The café doesn’t simply serve what many might consider the world’s best brew, they also offer classes and workshops to educate individuals interested in learning more about home brewing, roasting, cupping, espresso and latte milk art. The brand has a light, playful tone as evidenced by their ethos, emblazoned on their menu and T-shirts: Imagine You Know What You’re Doing.

What’s your interpretation of Seniman’s tagline?

When we asked Glick about the quirky tagline, he responded, “From experience, anyone that says they know what they’re doing should be kept at a distance!”

Buy coffee to go, T-shirts and other items at THCR across the street.

This Coffee’s in the Bag

Across the street is the roastery and shop THCR (Tetap Happy Coffee Roasters), which sports another amusingly confounding motto: Everything Happens to Everyone. You can purchase vacuum-sealed bags of whole beans, mugs and T-shirts to take home with you as a souvenir of Bali. Wally and I were both drawn to the color-blocked silver foil bags of single-origin beans with exotic names like Bali Kintamani, Papua Wamena and Sulawesi Toraja. 

Cool beans! Learn all about the coffee you purchase, as Seniman is part of the new wave.

“Seniman Coffee is an example of a new wave coffeeshop since we farm, produce and roast our own coffee, and we work on bringing out the positive attributes of beans from Bali,” Glick told us. “We farm and produce coffee through our sister company, Karana Spesialis Kopi. Additionally, we also source from major coffee regions in Indonesia: Gayo, West Java, Flores, Toraja and Papua.”

I purchased a couple bags of the Bali Karana Madu and one of the Papua Wamena. I actually liked it so much that I’ve ordered more and had it shipped to Chicago. 

Seniman and its sister company are involved in every step of the coffee production process.

Energized by our caffeine fix, Wally and I were ready to return to exploring the shops and avoiding the errant wild monkeys. 

Duke and Wally always find a local spot that acts as their base when they travel — and Seniman held that honor in Ubud.

We asked Glick how Ubud has changed since he’s been there. “More eateries and coffeeshops led by world-class artisans are opening up in Ubud, creating a very interesting mix of high-end international cuisine and local warung [the Indonesian word for shops],” he said. “Together it forms interesting collaborations and cross-pollination of ideas between expats and Indonesians.”

The one downside to iced lattes is that they’re not topped with fun art like these.

If you’re planning on visiting Ubud and are looking for a great cup of coffee, make sure to seek our the red circle with the sideways S. One sip and you’ll understand that Seniman doesn’t have to imagine they know what they’re doing — they already know. –Duke

 

Dog-gone it, if you’re a coffee connoisseur, you can’t miss Seniman in Ubud, Bali.

Seniman Coffee Studio
Jalan Sri Wedari No.5
Ubud, Bali
Indonesia