puerto vallarta

Eva Bracamontes, Bué the Warrior and Other Street Artists of Puerto Vallarta

A tour of Puerto Vallarta’s murals and street art, including those commissioned to help save a coral reef.

A mural titled La Diva del Futuro (The Diva of the Future) covers the façade of Café des Artistes, one of the most famous restaurants in Puerto Vallarta.

Wally and I have an appreciation for street art. This democratic and creative medium of social expression takes many forms, from simple tags to beautiful and sophisticated works of art. The best part is that it’s accessible to everyone. 

Because our walks were somewhat random, this is not a comprehensive collection of street art in Puerto Vallarta — but it highlights a few of our favorites. The cobblestone streets of PV’s city center are walkable, and there’s no better way to experience its vibrant street art and murals than by foot. 

The best part about street art is that it’s accessible to everyone. 
Man with arms outstretched in front of colorful circular street art

Duke radiates a love of street art while wandering around Puerto Vallarta.

Reef-er Madness: The Restore Coral Mural Project 

The Mesoamerican Reef system, also known as the Great Maya Reef, stretches from the northern tip of the Yucatán Peninsula down through Honduras’ Bay Islands. It’s the second largest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere. 

In recent decades, climate change and ocean acidification have threatened this fragile ecosystem, endangering the existence of the sea creatures who inhabit it. 

As part of a wider initiative, several large-scale works were commissioned in 2016 by the Restore Coral Mural Project. Using public spaces in towns across Mexico, an array of international and well-known local artists were invited to create murals to raise awareness and promote the importance of reef conservation. 

Mural of sea goddess in Puerto Vallarta

Eva Bracamontes’ Resurrection aims to bring new life to Mexico’s coral reefs.

Veracruz-based illustrator and street artist Eva Bracamontes uses vivid colors, focusing on indigenous women and references to Mesoamerican culture. 

Her mural Resurrection portrays a mystical dark-haired woman gazing serenely into the distance. She’s connected to the sea, wearing a coral crown and a crab necklace. A fantastic yet monstrous-looking creature is biting at her neck while an Ancient Mayan offers comfort. The bones of the woman’s hand are visible through her skin — perhaps a metaphor of the fragility of the reef. 

Mural of humanlike turtle in Puerto Vallarta

Wonder if this fella’s related to the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles?

DRZU aka Dherzu Uzala’s contribution depicts an intergalactic humanoid sea turtle reaching out from space to regenerate a reef — a network of energy and intersecting lines emanating from its hands. According to the World Wildlife Fund, nearly all species of sea turtles are now classified as endangered, with three of the seven existing species being critically endangered. 

Kids sitting on beach by mural of the Virgin Mary

The Virgin Mary watches over some kids on the beach.

Other Art Around Town 

You can’t help but smile when you see the recognizable and playful style of Dave De Rop aka Bué the Warrior. The Belgian street artist describes his style as “naïve, childlike, positive and with good vibes,” with roots in skate and hip-hop cultures.

Blue dog street art

Whimsical animals created by the Belgian graffiti artist known as Bué the Warrior

A little birdie told us De Rop describes his art as naïve and inspired by skate culture.

De Rop emigrated from Ghent to Mexico in 2015. To earn money, he used his great grandmother’s recipe and opened a waffle restaurant, complete with an art gallery, named Holly Waffles. The concept has since moved to Reno, Nevada, USA.  

Mural of squatting kids playing with giant insects

A boy and a girl play with giant bugs, including a praying mantis, horned rhinoceros beetles and a ladybug. We’re not sure exactly what they’ve got on their heads, though.

Graffiti of boy listening

What’s that you say?

Graffiti of boy screaming

There’s no need to shout!

Mesoamerican mermail mural reaching out

A mermaid with a spectacular headdress reaches a surprisingly realistic hand out from the water on one side of Hotel Hacienda de Vallarta Centro.

Adrian Takano Rojos is a self-taught artist originally from Mexico City who now lives in Puerto Vallarta. His photorealistic murals are often a mix of magical realism and Mesoamerican imagery. Their subject matter almost always connects to the artist’s cultural roots and depictions of indigenous peoples. 

The iconic Frida on a mural by an artist known as Qvetzal

On the corner of Morelos and Pípila Streets, you’ll find an expressive and poetic mural by Qvetzal that’s an homage to Frida Kahlo. The iconic painter is depicted with a colorful butterfly perched on her shoulder and flowers adorning her head and is accompanied by three fantail goldfish swimming around her. 

When you’re in Puerto Vallarta, don’t just cab everywhere. Take a day to wander the town — and admire the street art. –Duke

Haunting the Panteón 5 de Diciembre

This Puerto Vallarta cemetery is home to a heartbroken ghost. 

Panteon 5 de Diciembre graves with hills in background

The Panteón 5 de Diciembre: Puerto Vallarta’s main cemetery

Official records for the cemetery date back to 1916, when some bodies discovered in Hidalgo Park were interred in the Pantheon 5th of December — named for the PV neighborhood it’s located in. 

What’s so special about that date? Locals honor December 5, as it was on that day in 1929 that the Puerto Vallarta Ejido was formed. This collective offered land for local farmers to lease — the government appropriated 2,808 hectares from the Union en Cuale silver mining company in a show of egalitarianism after the Mexican Revolution.

On dark nights, the ghost of a woman can be seen making the trek from Hidalgo Park to the Panteón 5 de Diciembre.
Back of stone cherub at cemetery

Look homeward, angel: A woman’s ghost visits her husband’s grave after their remains were separated.

The Ghost of Hidalgo Park

As you can imagine, the transfer of the remains wasn’t foolproof. Some of the bones are said to remain at the old site. 

On dark nights, Vallartenses (as locals are called) say that a woman can be seen making the trek from the old burial site to the Panteón 5 de Diciembre. She must get tired, for cab drivers have reported her requesting a ride — with the dead giveaway that she’s actually levitating above the ground! 

One taxi driver, during a storm in the early 1960s, picked up the woman, noting that she smelled of roses. She wore a black dress with white circles that made him think of eyes watching him. 

The cabbie kept asking if the young woman was married, and she eventually acknowledged that she was. What the driver didn’t know at the time was that the couple were dead and had once been buried together. But while the husband’s remains had been relocated to Panteón 5 de Diciembre, the wife’s were left behind at Hidalgo Park. 

“I’ve come to comfort him,” the passenger said. A flash of lightning illuminated the sky — and when the taxi driver looked into his rearview mirror, the backseat was empty. 

But then the woman spoke again, talking of the painful separation from her husband. The cabbie saw her floating over the sidewalk and through the closed gate to the cemetery. 

Inside the taxi, the smell of roses turned to the stench of decay. 

Tombstone with writing and marigold petals

Dried marigold petals on a tombstone

A Visit for Día de los Muertos 

Duke and I visited on November 1. We hoped to see families placing bright orange marigolds, candles, photos, food items and cigarettes on the graves to lead their loved ones back from the afterlife. Instead, we only saw a couple of cans of beer left out, and a few families cleaning some of the gravesites. 

Perhaps the lack of activity was due to the fact that Day of the Dead really kicks into gear the next day. Plus, even though it was fall, the midday sun blazed down upon us scorchingly, and we tried to keep to the shade as much as possible. 

Flower stall in front of the Panteon 5 de Diciembre

A vendor sells marigolds outside the cemetery — the flower is especially popular around the Day of the Dead.

La Muerte Está Viva Parade

I was bummed to discover that we were one stinking day early on our visit. On November 2, a parade called La Muerte Está Viva (Death Is Alive) progresses from the cemetery to the Plaza Lázaro Cárdena, where a folk art festival is held. 

Elaborate stone grave with marigolds at Pantheon 5th of December

The Pantheon 5th of December has everything from gorgeous gravesites like this one to simple crosses with hand-painted Jesus heads.

If you find cemeteries as intriguing as Duke and I do, the Pantheon 5th of December is worth a visit. Just keep an eye out for a woman in a black dress whose feet don’t quite touch the ground. –Wally

Panteón 5 de Diciembre
Brasilia 715
5 de Diciembre
48350 Puerto Vallarta
Jalisco
Mexico

 

Where’s the Best Breakfast in Puerto Vallarta?

Three of our favorite brunch restaurants — plus the best coffee in PV.

The offerings at our fave coffeeshop in PV, Puerto Café

Part of the fun of a trip for me is the research before. This includes looking for potential places to eat, especially breakfast. You know what they say: Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. 

Read on to find out our top recommendations for Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. 

We jokingly lamented that we missed the Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. 
Chilaquiles at Calmate Cafe in Puerto Vallarta

Relax and enjoy a delicious and healthy(ish) breakfast at Cálmate Café. Wally got the chilaquiles.

1. Cálmate Café 

We ate here twice twice during our short stay in Puerto Vallarta, once for breakfast and once for lunch. Both times the food was delicious. Their menu offers a variety of healthy meal options as well as coffee, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies. 

We liked that it was outside of the main tourist tract and had a relaxed neighborhood vibe. The first time we had breakfast here, we arrived shortly after the streets had been washed. The cobblestones were still glistening in the sunlight, and we watched the morning unfold as we ate. The café lives up to its name, which can be translated as “take it easy.”

I ordered the eye- and mouth-pleasing yogurt and granola with fresh fruit and Wally ordered one of his go-tos: chilaquiles.

The outdoor seating area is small but cozy, and the servers were friendly. Plus, we got to pet a seemingly endless parade of dogs. 

Exterior of Calmate Cafe with server

Why sit in the crowded restaurant when you can dine on the sidewalk patio?

Cálmete Café
Calle Honduras 218
5 de Diciembre 
48350 Puerto Vallarta
 

Exterior of Fredy's Tucan restaurant in Puerto Vallarta

Fredy’s Tucán, a breakfast staple in the Zona Romántica

2. Fredy’s Tucán

Located on Basilio Badillo in the heart of the Zona Romántica, aka Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka one of the most gay-friendly areas on the planet), this popular breakfast spot is a well-oiled machine. Fredy’s originally opened in 1983 as an open-air bar and evolved into the restaurant it is today. 

There’s a reason tourists flock here. The servers are attentive, the food is well-priced — and did I mention it’s also delicious? On offer for breakfast are waffles, omelets, pancakes and Mexican dishes like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. Plus, how can you say no to the charming older man offering you a selection of freshly baked pastries to start your day?

When we left, satisfied and ready to explore, there was a queue outside to get in. Trust us, you won’t leave hungry. 

Fredy’s Tucán
Basilio Badillo 245
Emiliano Zapata
8380 Puerto Vallarta

Breakfast sandwich and eggs at Casa Cupola's Bistro

When in doubt, order the breakfast sandwich.

3. Bistro at Casa Cupula

Nestled in the hills among the tropical greenery of the Amapas neighborhood of PV is the gay-owned, LGBTQ- friendly boutique hotel, Casa Cupola and its onsite restaurant, Bistro at Casa Cupola. The lush setting reminded me of our visit to the spectacular Botanical Gardens earlier in the trip. 

It’s a steep climb up Callejón de la Igualdad but certainly worth it. (You could also bypass the hike and catch an Uber or cab there.)

You enter through a separate entrance for the bistro, which is located farther up the road. We arrived shortly after the restaurant opened and were seated on the sun-dappled patio as ceiling fans spun lazily overhead. Our server was attentive and the food delicious. We felt like we were in our very own private hacienda. 

We jokingly lamented that we missed the hotel’s Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. 

A peaceful breakfast on the deck in the hills just outside of PV at Casa Cupola.

Bistro at Casa Cupola
Callejón de la Igualdad 129
Amapas
48398 Puerto Vallarta
 

We liked the small medicinal-looking bottles the Puerto Café cold brew comes in so much we took one home.

4. Puerto Café 

Hands down, this was our favorite spot to get our caffeine fix. This hip, cozy coffeeshop serves the best coffee in town. It’s located on Calle Morelos, not far from the seaside Malecón promenade — kitty-corner from the black and white lighthouse they use in their logo. When we were there, someone had scrawled, “Fuck Digital Nomads” on the wall at the front of the space and good music spun on the turntable.

I loved their delicious (and potent) housemade cold brew coffee. Each serving comes in its very own small brown bottle like something a snake oil salesman would peddle. They also make a solid iced latte, which Wally enjoyed.

Part of what makes Puerto Café so special is the coffee they serve. All varieties are by Guadalajara-based Café Estelar, a specialty roaster that proudly works directly with regional producers to offer single-origin Mexican coffee beans. 

Just make sure to get there earlier in the day if you appreciate cold brew, as they produce it in limited batches daily and had run out on one of our visits. –Duke

Man at counter talking to barista at Puerto Cafe

With great local coffee and a cool vibe, Puerto Café is a fun spot to escape the heat and get your caffeine fix.

Puerto Café
Morelos 540
Proyecto Escola
Centro
48300 Puerto Vallarta

A Tour of the Malecón Sculptures in Puerto Vallarta

You might recognize Caballero del Mar (The Boy on the Seahorse), but here’s a cheat sheet for the other statues along the PV boardwalk.

Man on chair of La Rotunda del Mar in Puerto Vallarta

Wally has a seat and imitates his favorite sculpture on the Malecón, the creepy, cool La Rotunda del Mar (The Roundabout of the Sea).

If you spend any time in Puerto Vallarta, you’ll inevitably find yourself strolling along the Malecón, the boardwalk that lines the Bahía de Banderas. It’s not an old-fashioned wooden boardwalk as you might see in the States; it’s a wide concrete promenade lined with tourist shops, massive restaurants and clubs blaring music. It’s where everyone in PV goes to congregate, acting as a town square for tourists and locals alike.

You’ll have to get used to being constantly called out to (“hassled” is perhaps too harsh a word, but one you might be using after a few days). 

“Malecón” is simply the Spanish word for a waterfront promenade.

The Malecón stretches for about a mile, from the edge of the Zona Romántica, over the Cuale River, and on into Centro, the center of town, up to the Hotel Rosita on Calle Treinta y Uno de Octubre. Its first incarnation was as a breakwater built in 1936 and named the Paseo de la Revolución. It later became the Paseo Díaz Ordaz before getting enlarged and becoming the Malecón as we now can experience it. (In fact, “malecón” is simply the Spanish word for this type of waterfront promenade.)

The iconic Los Archos (The Arches) that are now there are a replica, as the originals were damaged in 2002 by Hurricane Kenna. The first were built during the colonial period and brought from a hacienda in Guadalajara.

Los Archos on the Puerto Vallarta Malecon

Los Archos frame Bahía de Banderas and the spit of land called Nuevo Vallarta, where many of the big resorts and hotels are located.

When you want to get some exercise, perhaps in the late afternoon, when the sun isn’t blazing down so fiercely, take a tour of the public sculptures that line the Malecón. 

Bailarines de Vallarta sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

Bailarines de Vallarta (Dancers of Vallarta) by Jim Demetro, 2006

Fun fact: The couple is performing the jarabe tapatio, the Mexican hat dance, which originated as a courtship ritual. 

San Pascual Bailón sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

San Pascual Bailón by Ramiz Barquet, 2008

Fun fact: The 16th century Spanish Franciscan friar, aka Paschal Baylón, became the patron saint of cooks.

La Fuente de la Amistad sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

La Fuente de la Amistad (The Friendship Fountain) by James “Bud” Bottoms and Octavio González Gutiérrez, 1987

Fun fact: The sculpture was a gift from Puerto Vallarta’s sister city, Santa Barbara, California. The dolphins symbolize peace, protection and brotherhood between the two cities.

The artists were inspired by a myth of the Chumash, a native people from what’s now Southern California. The Earth goddess, Hutash, created a rainbow bridge to connect the Chumash from their island to the mainland. And even though she warned those crossing not to look down, some did, losing their balance and falling. But as they plummeted into the ocean, the goddess transformed them into dolphins so they would not die.

Caballero del Mar (sculpture at sunset on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

Caballero del Mar (The Boy on the Seahorse) by Rafael Zamarripa, 1976

Fun fact: The first statue to be erected on the Malecón, it has become a symbol of the city. 

Triton and the Nereid sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

Triton and the Nereid by Carlos Espino, 1990

Fun fact: In Greek mythology, Triton was the son of Poseidon, the god of the sea, and nereids were sea nymphs who would help sailors during storms.

Lluvia sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

Lluvia (Rain) by Jovian, 2020

Fun fact: The artist says, “I tried to present a man with open arms as a symbol of openness, positively receiving what the world offers him with a gesture of happiness and fulfillment, eyes looking up into the rain without that affecting his peace but rather enjoying the water that falls on his body and making him feel free and alive.

That is what Vallarta is for me: a city with great openness, which welcomes locals and strangers with open arms. I have never known another city where people who come from other places feel so at home.” 

Man climbing ladder on En Búsqueda de la Razón sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

En Búsqueda de la Razón (In Search of Reason) by Sergio Bustamante, 2000

Fun fact: Another of our faves, this statue divides its audience — some think the mother is pleading with her children to come down, while others think she’s encouraging them to explore new heights.

Metal chairs from La Rotunda del Mar sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

La Rotunda del Mar (The Roundabout of the Sea) by Alejandro Colunga, 1996

Fun fact: These strange steampunk creatures, a fantastical mélange of humans, animals and tech tools, are inspired by the folk tales the artist heard as a child. Incidentally (and perhaps not surprisingly?), this is Duke and my favorite sculpture along the Malecón.

Naturaleza Como Madre sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

Naturaleza Como Madre (Nature as Mother) by Tapatio Adrián Reynoso, 1997

Fun fact: If the shape confuses you a bit, it’s a wave that’s becoming a woman…while balancing on a snail shell. 

Unicornio de la Buena Fortuna sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

Unicornio de la Buena Fortuna (Unicorn of Good Fortune) by Aníbal Riebeling, 2011

Fun fact: No surprise, given its name, but it’s said to be good luck to touch it. In fact, the city had to raise the base to help deter people from climbing on top of it for pictures.

El Sutil Comepiedras sculpture on Malecon in Puerto Vallarta with voladores in background

El Sutil Comepiedras (The Subtle Rock-Eater) by Jonás Gutiérrez, 2006

Fun fact: No one knows why exactly this man wants to eat rocks (as if there’s anything subtle about that), aside from the fact that he’s supposed to be a magician.

The statue is a great spot to watch the Voladores de Papantla spin around a pole on ropes attached to their feet. These “Flying Men” are part of an ancient ritual.

La Nostalgia sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

La Nostalgia by José Ramiz Barquet, 1976

Fun fact: One of the oldest on the Malecón, placed there in 1984, the sculpture is inspired by the love story between the sculptor and his wife, Nelly Galván-Duque Tamborrel. The couple met but then lost touch for 27 years before meeting again and getting married.

Detail of The Millennia sculpture on the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta

The Millennia by Mathís Lídice, 2001

Fun fact: There’s a double-helix DNA strand at the bottom to show that humans evolved from the sea alongside octopi, fish, frogs and lizards. This is followed by the French Charlemagne, the king of the Francs, bearing a sword, then the pre-Columbian poet-king Nezahualcoyotl. And the future is represented by a woman releasing a dove of peace.


So take a break from sunbathing, get a little culture and take some fun photos — it’ll give you an excuse to avoid the incessant hawkers trying to lure you into a sale. –Wally

Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden: Mexico’s Eden

Our budding romance with this lush nature preserve, which gets our vote for the best thing to do in PV. 

Hacienda de Oro at the Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

The orange-hued Hacienda de Oro houses a restaurant and gift shop, with the Cactus House to the right.

At first, we didn’t embrace the laidback, beach-oriented vibe of Puerto Vallarta. Duke and I are used to filling our itineraries with things to do — and the most culture PV has to offer are drag shows like Mama Tits’ Confessions of a Ho! (you couldn’t make this shit up).

Needless to say, we were excited to learn about the Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden. And, not surprisingly, our trip there was our favorite part of our vacation.

The most culture PV has to offer are drag shows like Mama Tits’ Confessions of a Ho!

So we were excited to learn about the Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden. And, not surprisingly, our trip there was our favorite part of our vacation.

We didn’t come fully prepared — no bug spray, Duke wearing sandals and me in suede Vans — but kudos to you for reading this to prepare for your visit. 

Man with sign at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Look how happy exploring the botanic garden made Wally.

Take a Hike

If you’re into hiking, there are numerous trails through the surrounding jungle. We started along one behind the Cactus House and found ourselves down by the river. I squatted down to wet my hair and neck. I’m not sure if we would have gone swimming in the brown water even if we had swimsuits, but it might be a good idea to wear yours just in case you really need to cool off. 

Cactus house at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

The Cactus House is filled with succulents and, yes, cacti.

Fountain with eagle sculpture at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

The fountain in front of the Hacienda de Oro features an eagle, a symbol of Mexico.

Wally cools off in the river.

Teens wading in river at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

A group of teens go swimming.

We continued over some slippery rocks and passed a group of local teens wading in the river before continuing along the Jaguar Trial. A sign informed us that its rating level was “difficult.”

“Would’ve been nice to have that marked on the map,” I muttered. 

But Jaguar turned out not to be too difficult; it’s just uphill for much of the time. I was kind of hoping we’d run across the eponymous feline, but no such luck. 

Pink chapel at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

The adorable pink chapel on the grounds, Our Lady of the Gardens

Goin’ to the Chapel

After the hike, we wandered a few of the areas near the restaurant and gift shop, including the octagonal conservatory of native plants, before crossing the Bridge of Dreams and stumbling upon the adorable pink church, Our Lady of the Gardens.

Octagonal conservatory at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

You can’t tell from this angle, but this conservatory is octagonal-shaped.

Bust of priest in jaguar suit at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

A priest in a jaguar pelt

Masks and plants on wall at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

Masks cover the back wall.

Statue of maize god at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

A statue of a man holding maize, one of the most important crops to the Mesoamericans who lived here

Replica of Aztec pyramid at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

This pyramid is a replica of the one at La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s home museum in Mexico City.

Column with head-shaped planters at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

“If they had planters like this at the gift shop, I would have bought some,” Duke says.

Man at the Bridge of Dreams in Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Duke on the Bridge of Dreams

Bridge of Dreams at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

El Puente de los Sueños leads to the chapel.

We couldn’t go inside the small chapel because they were putting up new wallpaper — a  bright yellow background filled with plants, birds and butterflies. It’s going to give the space a modern feel and make it oh-so-Instagrammable. 

Man on pink steps at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Wally on the pink stairs in front of the chapel

The man in charge of the project came over to chat with us, giving us advice (buy some insect repellent and carry it everywhere in defense of the no-see-ums; take a day trip to San Sebastián). 

Grave with statue of child king at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

The Infant of Prague in the graveyard

Statue of the Virgin Mary at the graveyard in Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

The Virgin Mary watches over some tombs.

Grave in shape of white church with Virgin at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Graves, some with elaborate statuary like this small church with the Virgin Mary within, line the hills on either side of the chapel.

There are graves scattered on either side of the hill leading up to the church — with those of pets to one side. If I happen to die while I’m in the area, I couldn’t hope for a better eternal resting place. 

Tropical birds eating fruit at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

When the staff put out this tray of fruit, one colorful species of bird after another stopped by to dine.

Birdwatching at the Hacienda

By this time, we were hungry and in need of refreshment, so we went back to the Hacienda de Oro and had a great lunch — guacamole, grilled fish tacos, chicken quesadillas Xochimilco and two Cadillac margaritas, por su puesto. (Incidentally, the margs were quite strong and left us un poco barrato). 

Hand holding margarita at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens restaurant

You can’t take a break on the Hacienda de Oro balcony without getting a margarita. Just be careful: They’re strong!

The food was tasty — whipped up in this open-air kitchen.

A violist stood by the tables playing songs, including “Dust in the Wind.” At first I was a bit annoyed we’d be pressured into tipping him, but it ended up being nice having the strains of music waft around us, and when I looked up at him, his eyes crinkled with a grin — and I didn’t mind slipping him some pesos in appreciation.

He was a nice guy and during one of his breaks, he told us to look over the balcony, pointing down to a spot where the staff had left out tropical fruits to attract a variety of birds in a rainbow array of bright colors. 

Hummingbird at feeder at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

A hummingbird at the feeder on the balcony

Woodpecker at feeder at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Next to stop by was a woodpecker.

He saw how excited we were — I could take up birdwatching if they were all this colorful and amazing — and kept pointing out new birds to us. 

After lunch we did some shopping. I can tell you that the handicrafts here are among the best you’ll find in the PV area. (The ubiquitous markets along the waterfront, which peddle tourist-oriented fare, get dismissively dubbed “mercados de basura,” or “trash markets,” by Duke.)

And the prices aren’t bad. I bought a blue wool dinosaur stuffed animal, a cloth Frida ornament and a ceramic skull rattle. 

Plants for sale at Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens

Plants and pots for sale

A skeleton and marigold for Día de los Muertos

Small statue of saint with skull amid plants at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

St. Francis holding a skull to contemplate death

Objects for sale at gift shop at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

We found the items on sale at the gift shop to be of high quality at a fair price.

To wrap up our visit, we went back to the main road and found the offshoot that leads to the Gazebo Bridge and then crossed the Swinging Bridge to the Vanilla Plantation. 

Man on Swinging Bridge at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

Duke wasn’t afraid to cross the Swinging Bridge.

Wally in the ironwork gazebo

Plant-covered fountain in greenhouse at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

A plant-filled fountain we passed en route to the Vanilla Plantation

Ready to call it a day, we headed back up the road to the entrance, where there’s an open-air hut. The staff there can call you a taxi with a fixed price. The Zona Románitca is just under 40 minutes north.

Lotuses and lilypads in pond at Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden

Lily pads and lotuses in one of the ponds in the gardens

All in all, we spent the better part of the day at the botanic garden, getting in a hike, eating a great meal, seeing exotic birds, doing some shopping and exploring the lush grounds. Tickets are well worth the 200 peso (about $9.50 when we visited) admission charge. By the way, kids under 4 get in free.

The beach has its perks. And drag shows are fun once in a while. But we wouldn’t visit PV without a trip here. It’s anything but your garden variety attraction. –Wally

 

Jardín Botánico Vallarta (Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens)

Carretera Puerto Vallarta
Carretera Costera a Barra de Navidad Kilómetro 24
48425 Jalisco
México


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