10 Over-the-Top Attractions in Dubai: From an Indoor Ski Resort to Dolphin Shows

Dubai is a city packed full of amazing destinations. Here are the must-see spectacles to add to your Dubai itinerary, including Mall of the Emirates, the Museum of the Future, Dubai Global Village and Dubai Miracle Garden. 

There’s so much to see and do in the megacity of Dubai in the UAE. We’ve whittled down the list to the top 10 picks to add to your Dubai trip.

In what seems like the blink of an eye, Dubai has grown into what could be considered the entertainment capital of the world — a treasure trove teeming with hundreds of attractions that draw millions of visitors from around the world. What more would you expect of a megacity built in the middle of a desert?

With its ultra-modern architecture, magnificent skyline and exotic lifestyle, Dubai is synonymous with grandeur and luxury. Almost every attraction in the UAE metropolis is built with the utmost precision and dedication, captivating the world’s attention.

With such a long list, finding the best of Dubai can be challenging. So, here’s my list of the top 10 destinations in Dubai, complete with a fun fact about each.

1. Mall of the Emirates

The Mall of Emirates is the second-largest shopping mall in Dubai and was established in the year 2005. Equipped with almost everything you can possibly imagine, the mall is one of the top places to visit in Dubai. Several cafés, restaurants, theaters and retail outlets sell hundreds of high-end brands. But the main attraction of the Mall of Emirates is Ski Dubai, an indoor ski resort!

Fun fact: Ski Dubai includes the world’s first indoor black (expert) run, which is 400 meters (a quarter of a mile) long and has a gradient of 60 degrees.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Monday to Thursday)
10 a.m. to 12 a.m. (Friday to Sunday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

2. IMG Worlds of Adventure

Get ready for a day filled with adventure at IMG Worlds of Adventure, Dubai’s ultimate indoor theme park. This massive wonderland is divided into zones, including the Lost Valley, a prehistoric land where dinosaurs roam; Cartoon Network Zone, where you could meet Ben 10 and the Powerpuff Girls; and Marvel, with thrilling rides and attractions that will leave you feeling like a superhero. Oh, and there’s even a haunted hotel, if you dare!

Fun fact: The park’s Velociraptor roller coaster is one of the fastest in the world, with a top speed of 62 miles per hour (100 kilometers per hour).

Hours: 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Sunday to Friday)
12 p.m. to 11 p.m. (Saturday)

Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Road

3. Museum of the Future

What will the world be like in 2071? That’s what this forward-looking museum tries to predict. Before you even go in, admire the torus-shaped architectural wonder created by Killa Design. Then go on an immersive journey into the future and learn more about how astronauts survive in space and how you can help reduce the effects of global warming.

Fun fact: The façade is made of stainless steel plates that feature Arabic calligraphy quotes from Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the ruler of Dubai.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.

Near Emirates Towers Metro Station
Sheikh Zayed Road

4. Dubai Dolphinarium

Home to the majestic Black Sea bottlenose dolphins, the Dubai Dolphinarium is one of the coolest places to visit in Dubai with kids. Watch the fur seals and dolphins join together in a fun performance, and under the supervision of a trained professional, you also get to interact, play, feed and swim with these delightful sea creatures.

Fun fact: The Dolphinarium has a rare albino bottlenose dolphin named Kekaimalu, which means “From the Peaceful Ocean” in Hawaiian.

Hours:  9 a.m. to 8 p.m (Closed on Tuesdays)

Creek Park Gate 1
Umm Hurair Road

5. Dubai Global Village

Travel the world — without ever leaving Dubai. At the Dubai Global Village, you can take a stroll through the African pavilion, where you’ll be transported to the Serengeti and witness some exotic wildlife. Or visit the European pavilion to be immersed in a world of art and history. The complex also hosts incredible shows, including acrobatics, dance performances and concerts. And to get your shopping fix, there are over 3,500 outlets selling everything from local handicrafts to international brands.

Fun fact: The park’s largest attraction is a replica of the Taj Mahal, which stands 52 feet (16 meters) tall and weighs 3,000 tons.

Hours: 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. (Sunday to Wednesday, with Tuesdays for women and families only)
4 p.m. to 1 a.m. (Thursday to Saturday)

Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Road

6. Dubai Miracle Garden

Get lost in the world of a fairy tale, where everything is covered in beautiful flowers. Dubai Miracle Garden is the biggest natural flower garden in the world, spreading over 775,000 square feet (72,000 square meters) and featuring 150 million flowers and plants. It’s an absolute paradise for those seeking to connect with nature — and for those who have always wanted to visit a Smurf village!

Fun fact: The flower arrangements change every season, and it takes over 200 people to plant and maintain the flowers throughout the year.

Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Monday to Friday)
9 a.m. to 11 p.m. (Saturday and Sunday)

Al Barsha South 3

7. Ain Dubai

Modeled after and inspired by the famous London Eye, Ain Dubai is the world’s tallest observation wheel, standing at a staggering height of 850 feet (260 meters). Marvel at the breathtaking views of Dubai as the capsule reaches the city’s highest point. Catch a glimpse of other places to visit in Dubai, including the Burj Khalifa, Burj Al Arab, Jumeirah Islands and more.

Fun fact: The observation wheel features 48 capsules that can each hold up to 40 people, offering a total capacity of 1,920 passengers at any given time.

(Note: At the time of publication, Ain Dubai was temporarily closed. Check to see if it has reopened yet.) 

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Tuesday and Wednesday)
12 p.m. to 9 p.m. (Thursday to Saturday)

Bluewaters Island

8. Bollywood Parks Dubai

Have you always dreamed of starring in a Bollywood musical? Well, now’s your chance! Bollywood Parks Dubai brings you the first amusement park dedicated exclusively to Indian films. As part of Dubai Parks and Resorts, you can visit various remakes of famous Bollywood movie sets like Lagaan, Sholay and Dabangg and take in a 4D movie experience or dance workshops while admiring the beautiful Indian décor.

Fun fact: The hot new ride is Ra.One – Unleashed, a virtual reality ride based on a popular superhero movie. Riders feel wind and water as they battle robots and villains alongside the film’s hero, G.One.

Hours: 1 p.m. to 10 p.m. (Sunday to Thursday)

1 p.m. to 11 p.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

9. Motiongate

Bollywood isn’t the only movie industry to inspire a theme park in Dubai; Hollywood has cast its spell as well at Motiongate. Also located within Dubai Park and Resorts, you can enjoy adrenaline-pumping rides and can meet Hollywood characters wandering around the park in zones affiliated with various production companies, including Columbia, Dreamworks and Lionsgate. Oh, and strangely enough, there’s a Smurf village here, too.

My favorite rides: the Green Hornet: High-Speed Chase and the Madagascar Mad Pursuit.

Fun fact: The park’s Zombieland Blast-off ride is the tallest freefall tower in the world, standing at 190 feet (58 meters) tall.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Sunday to Thursday)
11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (Friday and Saturday)

Sheikh Zayed Road

10. Dubai Opera

Dubai is also home to high culture — and in my opinion, no trip here is complete without a visit to the Dubai Opera. Once again, it’s a marvel of design. Despite its name, the 2,000-seat theater literally transforms itself to play host to a wide variety of stunning world-class entertainment, including orchestras, musicals, ballets and lectures. 

Fun fact: The opera house’s iconic design was inspired by the traditional sailing vessels of the Arabian Gulf known as dhows. The building’s unique shape also transforms into a flat floor space for events other than operas.

Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Boulevard

Everything in Dubai is over-the-top. Bigger is better — and the attractions are no different.

In a city of superlatives, these are what I think are the best of the best. Have you noticed how everything is described as the world’s biggest such-and-such? And so many of these attractions are held indoors, away from the intense desert heat. Dubai leaves no chance for disappointment, and every visit to this gleaming metropolis is worthwhile. –Nishita Khanwani

A Travel Guide to Qatar Ahead of the World Cup

Is it safe for gay tourists to travel to this Muslim country? What is there to do in Qatar aside from the big event? How expensive is it? Here’s what you need to know before you go to Qatar. 

Al Wakrah Stadium is one of eight that the government of Qatar built to host the FIFA World Cup 2022.

The gulf state of Qatar is set for an influx of tourists this winter as the World Cup lands on its shore. There’s been a debate about how to pronounce the country’s name, but I’ve found you’re safe going with “Ka-tar.” 

It’s an unusual, even controversial, location for the World Cup; what’s considered the most popular sporting competition in the world is played during the summer months and has been ever since 1930 — but the heat in Qatar means it has been shifted to November. Also, the host country usually has a record of qualifications for the event, but Qatar has never been in the finals until now. 

“Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir, or ruler, of Qatar, said LGBTQ+ visitors would be welcomed to the World Cup, but they must “respect our culture.””

Architect Zaha Hadid thought that claims that her Al Janoub Stadium resembles a vagina are “ridiculous.” You decide.

Still, with around 2.1 million tourists visiting annually and 1.8 million tickets sold for the competition, it promises to make 2022 a record-breaking year. The event is proving to be so popular the South China Morning Post reports that people are being offered to stay in tents in the desert, as the 30,000 hotel rooms have been booked up already.

The World Cup happens every four years and features 32 of the world's best soccer (or football to most of the world) teams. The United States will be there, joining England, Wales and Iran, and are expected to progress to the knockout stages. They're down in the overall ranking in the current Ladbrokes odds, but fans will still head out in large numbers, full of expectation. 

The Qatar University Stadium has been expanded to accommodate more fans in preparation for the World Cup.

If you’re heading to Qatar, you might not know what to expect from your team, but here’s how to prepare for whatever greets you off the field. The country is hoping that its new air-conditioned stadiums, hotels and museums will boost local and international tourism long after the games have ended. In fact, it has spent billions on infrastructure — including eight stadiums — in the 11 years since winning the bid to host.

Qatar is a Muslim country where most men wear headdresses and long white garments called thobes, like this trio in front of Souq Waqif, a traditional marketplace in Doha.

Religion

It’s important to understand that Qatar is an Islamic country, and there are certain aspects of its culture with which you must be familiar. For instance, drinking in public is banned, but there is a level of tolerance within the country. Alcohol is permitted in some places. 

Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir of Qatar, says gays are welcome — just don’t be too gay.

And in a country where homosexuality is illegal many gay tourists are wondering if they’d be safe attending the World Cup. Sheikh Tamim bin Hamad al-Thani, the emir, or ruler, of Qatar, said LGBTQ+ visitors would be welcomed to the World Cup, but they must “respect our culture.”

The Qanat Quartier in Doha has been compared to Venice.

Transport in Qatar

Getting around Qatar is easy, with Karwa taxis being widely available and reasonably priced. Apps such as Careem and Uber also operate in Qatar, so you should never be stuck without a ride. In addition, there's a metro network with three lines; the red line connects Hamad International Airport with the city center and is useful for new arrivals.

Qatar is a country where you can get by quite cheaply — or you can travel in luxury.

Value

Qatar has two sides: One is very expensive and the other not. If you wish to take in top restaurants and luxurious hotels, the prices are sky-high. However, you can visit Qatar on a budget with ease. The World Cup might raise prices, but usually, the winter season sees hotel rooms available for around $60 per night. Eating out can also be done cheaply; food courts and street vendors can provide great food for as little as $20 per day.

The nighttime skyline of Doha as seen through the arches of the Museum of Islamic Art

Qatar Attractions

Visitors who venture outside the World Cup might be surprised to find a thriving art scene in Doha, the capital city. The Museum of Islamic Art is a must-see. It's a fantastic example of local architecture with a vast collection of glasswork, paintings and ancient manuscripts. Mathaf: Arab Museum of Modern Art is also worth a visit. 

The Museum of Islamic Art in Doha was designed by I.M. Pei, the same dude responsible for the pyramid in front of the Louvre.

There are also three new museums being built, including the Lusail Museum, which will boast the world’s most extensive collection of Eastern paintings, drawings, photography and sculptures.

Khor Al-Adaid, with its sweeping dunes, is also known as the Inland Sea.

There are plenty of natural attractions, too. The Al Thakira mangroves in the north and the salt flats along the coast are both natural beauties, while Khor Al-Adaid, the Inland Sea, is another highlight visitors shouldn’t miss. And the “Singing Sand Dunes” on the southwest edge of Doha are a great day trip for those wanting a desert safari. A favorite activity there is dune bashing: off-road driving in an SUV with wide tires that slide across the sand as if on ice.

The World Cup is undeniably changing the country of Doha, adding infrastructure and attractions — making it more of a travel destination.

Beyond the World Cup

Those traveling to Qatar solely for soccer won’t see the best of the country: hotels will be booked solid, transport networks stretched and crowds intense. However, if you come early or remain after the tournament, you'll find a beautiful country that’s more tolerant than the media has suggested, waiting to welcome you with open arms. –Max Hopper

Ancient Gods of the Old Testament

Who is Baal? What about Asherah, Dagon, Marduk, Moloch and the other pagan gods of the Bible? And was human sacrifice part of their worship?

Some of these ancient gods, including Molech, who had a built-in baby-burning furnace, are accused of inciting human sacrifice.

My parents were never very religious. But that didn’t stop them from sending me to bible camp in the summer. (It was tons of fun — though we all dreaded the inevitable one-on-one with our counselor, when he’d ask if we had let Jesus into heart. Every year we replied that we thought Jesus was in there but we couldn’t be absolutely sure).

I also went to Catholic school for four years. So, even though I was obsessed with the ancient gods of Greece and Rome, I couldn’t help being influenced by the Bible’s condemnation of the Canaanite deities in the Old Testament. If you asked me about Baal when I was a kid, I’d have told you he was an evil god who was second only to Satan himself.

“The god El could very well have been the original conception of the Hebrew God.

It’s right there in the “el” in the name Israel, which is usually translated as “He Who Struggles With God.””

Imagine my surprise years later, when I learned more about the gods that were so maligned in the Bible. They weren’t always the bloodthirsty incarnations of evil they were depicted as. They were simply the deities worshipped by the kingdoms surrounding Israel and Judah. Baal, for instance, was essentially just another Middle Eastern god of fertility. The Old Testament writers disparaged them because they were rivals to their extremely jealous god, Yahweh. (In fact, when God came up with 10 Commandments for his people to follow, he topped the list with, “Thou shalt have no other gods before me.”)

Here are the major ancient deities of the Levant, and how they’re depicted in the Bible.

Adrammelech

Aka: Adramelech, Adar-malik

Meaning of the name: Majestic King

Domain: The sun, a counterpart to Anammelech, the goddess of the moon

Biblical reference: 2 Kings 17:31: The people of the Assyrian city of Sepharvaim were said to burn their children as sacrifices to the god.

Description: This handsome devil has the face of a mule and the plumage of a peacock. He’s also depicted as having a lion’s body with wings and the bearded head of a man.

Strange story: According to Collin de Plancy, author of the Dictionnaire Infernal, Adrammelech is in charge of Satan’s wardrobe.

Asherah

Aka: Athirat, Ashratu

Meaning of the name: Happy or Upright

Domain: There’s a lot of confusion around this deity. She could be the mother of the gods. In some incarnations, she was a goddess of sexuality or of the mountains. She also could be tied to the sea or the sun.

She might not even be a goddess; asherah seems to refer to cult objects — specifically the consecrated poles used in worship at the time.

Numerous statuettes like this one are tied to the goddess Asherah.

Biblical reference: 1 Kings 18:19: The goddess’ 400 prophets eat at Jezebel’s table, along with the prophets of Baal.

2 Kings 23:4-7: Josiah had “all the articles” made for Asherah and Baal burned, and the “idolatrous priests” were done away with. The Asherah pole was also set on fire and its ashes spread over the graves of the common people. And the quarters where women did weaving for the goddess were torn down.

Description: Often depicted as a stylized tree

Strange story: She’s connected with Yahweh as a consort — meaning that before the Jews were monotheistic, their God had a wife!

Ashtoreth 

Aka: Atar-gatis; connected to Ishtar and Astarte

Meaning of the name: Star

Domain: The moon; supreme goddess of Canaan and female counterpart to Baal

Biblical reference: 1 Samuel 12:10: One of many references to people declaring they will no longer worship the Baals and the Ashtoreths. The use of the plural could indicate that these names were used to speak generally about so-called pagan deities.

The goddess in her Atar-gatis guise has legs as well as a long fish tail.

Description: As Atar-gatis, she was a woman with the tail of a fish.

Strange story: As an earlier incarnation, Ishtar, the goddess was worshipped through prostitution. And she eventually morphed into a male demon, Astaroth, a great duke of Hell.

Baal

Aka: Ba’al, Baal of Peor, Baal-Berith, Baal-Zebub

Meaning of the name: Lord

Domain: Fertility, as well as the sun and storms; supreme god of Canaan and Phoenicia

Biblical reference: The Old Testament is lousy with references to Baal. He gave the Golden Calf a run for its money. Some choice selections: 

2 Kings 10:18-28: The Israelite King Jehu tricked all the servants and priests of Baal to come to the temple for a great sacrifice, where he had his soldiers massacre every last one of them. To add insult to injury, Jehu then made the house of Baal a public latrine. 

Jeremiah 19:5: Baal’s worshippers are said to burn their sons alive as a sacrifice to appease the deity. 

1 Kings 18:28: The priests of Baal worked themselves into a frenzy and cut themselves with swords and lances.

You can see how depictions of Baal might have helped influence Christians’ concept of the Devil (aka Beelzebub).

Description: Baal is basically a minotaur — a powerfully built man with the fearsome head of a bull. He’s sometimes shown as a man wearing a toilet-plunger-looking hat  over his luxurious curls and holding a lightning bolt in his upraised hand.

Strange story: Baal’s worship included public ritual prostitution between one of his priests and a local woman.

The demon Beelzebub, whom Jesus links to Satan in the Book of Matthew, is a modification of one of Baal’s names.

Chemosh

Aka: Asthor-Chemosh

Meaning of the name: Uncertain; perhaps Destroyer or Fish God

Domain: War, mountains; primary god of the Moabites

Biblical reference: 1 Kings 11:7: Despite being held up as a paragon of virtue, King Solomon actually built a sanctuary to Chemosh — thought of as a move to please his Moabite wife.

2 Kings 3:27: The king of Moab sacrificed his firstborn son and heir to Chemosh on the city wall — and the strategy worked. The Israelites scurried away in defeat.

Description: An old man with a full beard, wearing a bulbous cap and sometimes brandishing a sword

Strange story: There’s rare archeological evidence that calls out Chemosh by name: the Moabite Stone, or Mesha Stele, discovered in 1868 at Dibon. It bears an inscription commemorating the circa 860 BCE endeavors of King Mesha to overthrow the Israelite dominion of Moab. 

Dagon

Meaning of the name: Grain

Domain: Fertility, agriculture, war, death and the afterlife; chief god of the Philistines

Biblical reference: 1 Samuel 5: The Philistines captured the Ark of the Covenant and put it in the temple of Dagon. In the morning, the statue had fallen over, face-down, in front of the ark. The next morning, the same thing had happened, and the statue’s head and hands had broken off. The worshippers of Dagon were justifiably freaked out, so they moved the ark from town to town — but everywhere it resided, the people developed tumors. Eventually, the Philistines returned the cursed ark to Israel.

The statue of Dagon kept falling down in front of the stolen Ark of the Covenant.

Description: A merman — half man, half fish, or a bearded man wearing a sort of giant fish cloak, with the open mouth pointing skyward

Strange story: The concept of Dagan’s appearance is fishy, though — some sources think it’s a misrepresentation of the deity.

El

Meaning of the name: God

Domain: Father of the gods

Biblical reference: Genesis 14:18–20: Abraham accepts the blessing of El.

Description: An old man, often with wings; sometimes depicted as a bull

Strange story: In the Bible, El is the supreme god of the Canaanites, yet is identified with Yahweh. In fact, he could very well have been the original conception of the Hebrew God. It’s right there in the “el” in the name Israel, which is usually translated as “He Who Struggles With God.”

If El was the prototype of Yahweh, it explains the connection between his wife, Asherah, and the Hebrew God.

Hadad 

Aka: Ramman; often conflated with Baal

Meaning of the name: Thunder

Domain: Storms, fertility

Biblical reference: It’s believed that some of the mentions of lower-case baals (gods) in the Old Testament refer to Hadad — though he also gets jumbled up with numerous other deities of the region. 

One theory, which I imagine to be controversial, states that Psalm 29 was actually about Hadad and not Yahweh, waxing poetic about the voice of God striking with flashes of lightning, shaking the desert, twisting oaks and the like.

Description: Another bearded man wielding a lightning bolt

Strange story: Like the Egyptian deity Osiris, Hadad is murdered by a fellow god, and the world goes barren before he is resurrected.

Marduk

Aka: Bel (which means Lord)

Meaning of the name: Bull Calf

Domain: Justice, compassion, healing, magic; sometimes also a storm and agriculture deity; patron god of Babylon

Biblical reference: Jeremiah 50:2: A rallying cry about the fall of Babylon, where Bel is put to shame, and Marduk is dismayed

Description: A man with a curly beard wearing a robe covered with circular devices. He’s got a pet/servant dragon.

Marduk, god of justice, defeats Tiamat, the goddess of chaos.

Strange story: Marduk killed the goddess of chaos, Tiamat (often shown as a griffin-like creature), with an arrow that split her in two. From her eyes, the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers began to flow, and from her corpse, Marduk formed the heavens and earth. 

Moloch 

Aka: Molech, Molekh, Mo’lech, Moloc

Meaning of the name: King

Domain: Not sure — maybe the underworld; does sacrificing babies count?

Biblical reference: Leviticus 20:2-5: Yahweh demands that the Israelites stone to death any man who “gives his seed” to Moloch, who loved a good child sacrifice.

Description: A calf or an ox; a man with the head of a bull with arms outstretched, its body a furnace to roast infants

Strange story: There’s no real archaeological evidence of a god named Moloch. This most likely wasn’t the name he was known by among his worshipers but rather a Hebrew transliteration. Some scholars think Moloch was actually the same god as Baal.

Nisroch

Aka: Nisrok

Meaning of the name: Possibly relating to a plank of wood, specifically from Noah’s Ark, which Sennacherib, the king of Assyria, worshipped as an idol

Domain: Agriculture

Biblical reference: 2 Kings 19:36-37: Sennacherib was worshipping in the temple to Nisroch, when two of his sons came in and smote the heck outta him with their swords.

King Sennacherib’s sons flee the temple of Nisroch after killing their father.

Description: A muscular man with the head and wings of an eagle (though this is thought by some scholars to originally have been a depiction of a jinni), sometimes shown watering a sacred tree

Strange story: There’s some debate as to whether Nisroch is actually a deity or if it’s a scribal error for the god Nimrod. In later folklore, Nisroch became a demon who’s the chief cook in Hell.

Tammuz

Aka: Dumuzi

Meaning of the name: The Flawless Youth, the Good Young One

Domain: Fertility, shepherds (helping keep newborn animals from being defective)

Biblical reference: Ezekiel 8.14-15: A being of fire (even its loins were aflame) shows the prophet Ezekiel pagan atrocities. At the entrance to the Temple in Jerusalem, Ezekiel sees women weeping for the death of Tammuz, much to his horror. The fire being, though, assures him he’ll see much worse abominations, which is hardly surprising.

Description: A total hottie

Strange story: Tammuz was killed by his lover, Inanna, the goddess of sexuality, because she felt he didn’t mourn her enough when she was lost in the Underworld. Don’t worry: In a foreshadowing of Christ (and in the tradition of Adonis and Osiris), Tammuz was resurrected. –Wally

What It’s Really Like to Visit Iran

Despite a bad reputation and the gasht-e ershad (morality police), Tehran features many big-city amenities, including delicious Persian food, an obsession with Western culture and an accommodating way of life called taarof.

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Alma wanted to honor her Iranian heritage and visit the family members she had never met.

To most Americans, Iran is a mystery. It’s lumped in with the rest of the Middle East and cited as an example of a theocracy, where an intolerant religious leader rules with an iron fist.

It wasn’t until I read Persepolis by Marjane Satrapi, an amazing graphic novel that was adapted into an excellent movie of the same name, that I realized there’s much more to Iran. 

“The woman asked my dad if I was “of this country,” then told me to button my jacket. ”

What many of us aren’t aware of is how well Iran and the United States got along in the 1970s, when Mohammed Reza Shah Pahlavi was in power. He was pro-American (and supported by the U.S.), and Western culture thrived in Tehran. Then the 1979 Iranian Revolution took place, which put Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini in power — and Islamic law became the norm. That includes dress codes and forbidding Iranian women from having relationships with non-Muslim men. Needless to say, homosexuality is illegal and can result in execution.

But it turns out there’s so much more to Iran. Tehran, in many ways, is very similar to any big city. There’s delectable Persian food to be found everywhere. And embedded in the culture is a graciousness and hospitality that may be unfamiliar to Westerners.

Here’s an interview conducted with my co-worker Alma, who surprised me (and her poor mother) with a decision to visit the homeland she never knew.

Gorgeous mosaics and flowering trees at Golestan, or Roseland, Palace

The street food in Darband, a neighborhood in Tehran with lots of great shops and restaurants

This is what happens in a country with no copyright laws

Dar ul-Funun (Darolfonoon) School, the oldest university in Tehran, dates to 1854

A guard in the Mirror Hall

Alma with her dad and cousin in Darband

This restaurant has tents where servers will bring you food and a hookah

What made you want to go to Iran?
I wanted to see the country of my heritage. Both my parents are Iranian, but I was born in the U.S. Half of my family lives there and because I’d never been to Iran, I never met them. And as I’ve gotten older, I’ve felt the ties to my culture loosening, so I wanted to be immersed.

Were you scared at all?
I was a little nervous because the country has a pretty terrible reputation for anti-American sentiment, civil rights violations and religious fanaticism, among other things. But I had to go see for myself.

What was the most surprising thing about your trip?
I was most surprised at how easy it was to balance my identities. I was afraid I’d stick out. I felt like I had a giant neon sign above my head that read, “FOREIGNER.” I speak Farsi but I was terrified my accent would give me away. But it was easy to get around — nobody minded me.

And I hate to admit it, but I was surprised at how modern Tehran is. Credit cards aren’t a thing, but most any modern luxuries we enjoy in the U.S. are available (sometimes at a price). People have smartphones and post to Instagram. I even picked up a few new apps when I was there, including Viber and Fastdic.

What were the people like?
Any sort of person you’d meet in a major metropolitan area, you can meet in Tehran. Iranians are generally very friendly and gracious, but you’ll find just as many people who mind their own business. It’s a big city, like any other.

Though, a lot of people are obsessed — or at least mildly amused — by Western culture, particularly the young people. My cousins told me English is cool and trendy, and they thought my accent was cute. I think they were just being polite.

Did you run into any trouble?
Before I went on my trip, my mom told horror stories about the gasht-e ershad, the morality police. Back in the early days of the Iranian Revolution, they would arrest people for the slightest trespasses.

We saw a small group of them once: a military man with a machine gun and a couple of women in chadors (the full-length cloaks with a headscarf). We were in an unfamiliar part of town, so my dad asked the man for directions. Why? I don’t know. He’s not afraid of anything. The woman asked him if I was “of this country,” then told me to button my jacket. It was a little scary, but nothing happened.
 
What was the food like?
The food was one of the best parts. For me, Persian food was always “home food.” Cooking Persian food is very time-consuming, so we ate it at home and family gatherings. There are Persian restaurants in the U.S., but they were always so far away, and not always a great place to take small kids. As we got older, it became more and more of a special occasion meal than a daily occurrence.

In Iran, home food is everywhere and it was incredible: basmati rice, stews, kababs, pita bread, tea. I love it!

Any strange customs you witnessed?
There’s an aspect of Persian etiquette called “ta’arof.” It’s not strange as much as just culturally different. There’s no equivalent in Western culture but I like to explain is as “never inconveniencing anyone in any way ever.”

It was fascinating to see it in action outside of my family members. The best example of ta’arof is offering guests food or drink. As the host, your job is to make your guests feel comfortable, like they’re in their own home. But as the guest, you do your darnedest to avoid burdening your host any further. That means refusing food and drink while the host continues to offer. Accepting too soon is impolite, and I certainly forgot about this.

It happens in shops, too. We asked the price of items, and the shopkeepers would tell us to just take it or that it’s “not worthy of you.” You still need to pay for it, though.

What’s the best part about Iran?
Iran has so many layers. There is so much history and so many stories to tell. I barely scratched the surface.
 
Worst part?
The political negativity shrouds such a beautiful country and its beautiful culture.

Be sure to read Alma’s article, “Iran and I: Falling in Love With the Homeland That Never Was My Home,” which ran on The Week’s website. It’s a fascinating and moving piece of writing. –Wally

The Best and Worst Parts of Living in Qatar

Porto Arabia, Doha, Qatar, as seen from Donovan and Kate’s apartment

What’s it like living in a Muslim country that fasts for an entire month and limits the sale of booze? What do Qataris think of Americans? And how the heck do you pronounce Qatar?

They’re young. They don’t have kids. They figured, why not?

Deciding to pick up and move from the U.S. to Qatar a couple of years ago, Donovan and Kate are inspirations. Don’t we all dream of embarking on such a journey? After all, you only live once (unless the Hindus and New Agers happen to be right about reincarnation).

“Fasting is the real deal. No food, no water, not even gum or Advil until sundown. Even if you’re not fasting, you’re not supposed to do any of those things in public, not even in your car. ”

Of course they did pick a Muslim country in the middle of a desert to move to. That comes with its highs and lows.

“If we get kicked out of the country for any of these answers, we’re moving in with you,” Donovan threatened. “Warn Duke.”

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Kate and Donovan tied the knot in Mykonos, Greece. Wedding photos by Shaun Menary Photography

What’s the best part about Qatar?

Qatar’s 90% expat, so every day you interact with people from a ton of different cultures and backgrounds. It creates pretty tight bonds between unlikely people, since there’s a sense that we’re all in this together (being away from home in a sometimes strange country).

We once went out on a Friday night with some casual friends and, several drinks later, all ended up booking a trip to Lebanon together. The next weekend. And it was a blast. And you need that kind of support. 

Back to that Lebanon trip: One of the best things about living in Qatar is its proximity to so many interesting places. It takes three hours to fly to Cairo, four hours to Kathmandu, five hours to Kenya, seven hours to Saigon — it turns out it’s easier (and cheaper!) to get to cool places when you don’t have to cross an ocean.  

What’s the worst part about Qatar?

The place changes so quickly that it surprises you, whether you’ve been here for five months or five years! Three days ago, Kate was on her way to work and discovered that, unannounced, the road to get there had closed, and no one bothered to put up any signs to redirect traffic.

That’s the other worst thing: traffic. More or less everyone drives like a lunatic, with no regard for laws, other cars, pedestrians, light posts, etc. It’s every Land Cruiser for himself out there.

What surprised you about Qatar?

How normal it can feel. We’re half a world away from home and hear the call to prayer five times a day, but every Sunday during the fall we still drink a few beers and watch football. Donovan still buys his standard-issue White Guy Clothes at the Banana Republic at the mall. We’re still up-to-date on Game of Thrones and Orange Is the New Black. We go to bars less often, but we drink just as much (possibly more!).

It’s a nice mix of a “cultural experience” with a bubble you can retreat into when you just want to unwind with a glass of wine and Scandal. If it weren’t for the call to prayer, you’d swear you were back home — though good luck getting a Chicago-style deep-dish pizza out here.

What is Ramadan really like? 

Ah, Ramadan. We’re currently right in the middle of the holy month, which for those of us who don’t fast is actually kind of nice. Work hours are shorter, there’s a lot less traffic, and everybody’s generally more laid-back (possibly from lack of energy). The pace of life is a lot slower, since basically everything is closed until sundown.

There are tents set up around town for iftar (the evening meal to break the fast) with giant buffets and entertainment. There are similarities to Christmas in the U.S.: Everything’s lit up at night, people get together with family for meals, and the stores all have sales.

For Muslims it’s a time of reflection and increased spirituality, which fasting is supposed to emphasize. And fasting is the real deal. No food, no water, not even any gum or Advil until sundown. Even if you’re not fasting, you’re not supposed to do any of those things in public, not even in your car. Which is a drag when you go to a matinee and they’re not selling popcorn, even though the whole theater smells like it.

What about Muslim culture overall?

Asking about Muslim culture is sort of like asking about “European culture” or “American culture.” The range of experiences is just so broad. On one extreme, you have Saudi Arabia, where women can’t drive and can’t go out in public without a male relative. On the other hand, you have Bahrain, which is connected to Saudi by a causeway and yet is full of Muslim men drinking beer and playing pool in bars.

Qatar is somewhere in between, but certainly leans conservative. Islam is the state religion (hence the short work days during Ramadan, hooray!), so alcohol and pork are restricted but available to non-Muslims. The aforementioned calls to prayer are ubiquitous, but it’s not like people drop everything at that moment to go pray.

It’s been interesting to hear certain orange-hued people in the U.S. [that’s a Trump dig, in case you missed it] claim that Islam is incompatible with modern life, given that every day in Doha hundreds of thousands of Muslims put on their abayas and thobes, grab Starbucks on the way to work and eagerly await the next Star Wars movie.

What’s the Qatari view of Americans?

Qataris are pro-America, Trump aside. We’ve both worked at U.S.-based universities over here, and we’ve seen that Qatari students embrace the Western college experience — dorms, sports, study abroad — that doesn’t really exist here otherwise.

One of the great moments we’ve experienced was hearing the brass band at the Georgetown graduation play Pharrell’s “Happy” when the Father Emir — basically Qatar’s George Washington — greeted students.

It’s always an enjoyable thing to see Qataris wrestling their Louis Vuitton shopping bags onto the plane when coming back from a jaunt to Los Angeles or New York.

What’s an interesting local custom?

Sharing of food is a major part of the culture here. At Qatari weddings, they’ll have a tent with multiple massive platters of rice with a whole lamb on top of each. Family-style eating is very popular, and our Arab colleagues frequently bring lunch for everyone.

Shisha, the local version of the hookah, is also a big part of restaurant meals, similar to an after-dinner drink when you want to hang out just a little while longer.

Most useful phrases for a traveler?

You can get by in Qatar on English alone, but if you want to go local:

Shukran (shoo-kran): thank you

Insha’allah: literally “God willing.” Used to mean “hopefully,” or, in a business setting, “don’t count on it.” For example, “I will get it to you Tuesday, insha’allah” means “I will not get it to you Tuesday.” 

A salaam alaikum: Means “peace be unto you.” Polite greeting to any Muslim, who will respond, “Alaikum salaam.” 

Khalas: “Enough” or “that’s it.” Useful when bargaining.

Yalla!: “Let’s go!”

How do you pronounce Qatar?

Khalas, Wally. Khalas.

That last answer is because Donovan and I would get into friendly arguments at work about how to pronounce the country’s name. He insisted it was “Ka-tahr,” as most Americans do. But I had heard it pronounced “Cutter” on NPR, and I figured that was a reliable source.

Donovan refused to believe me — until he moved to Qatar. Turns out I was right. Though I’m hardly one to brag.

For the record, though: It’s “Cutter.” –Wally