4 Unforgettable Experiences in Palm Cove, Australia

From fishing the Great Barrier Reef to exploring Daintree Rainforest, these activities in the Tropical North Queensland hotspot should be on your bucket list. 

Palm Cove is a great spot to base yourself when visiting Tropical North Queensland.

There’s something magical about Palm Cove. It’s known for its sleepy, almost dream-like environment, stunning landscapes and great weather all year round.

But there’s more to this village located 25 minutes away from Cairns Airport. The best thing about Palm Cove is that it’s a gateway to Tropical North Queensland’s most beloved spots. There are tons of different activities and exciting experiences that you really must try at least once before you die. Below are my absolute favorites:

“The best thing about Palm Cove is that it’s a gateway to Tropical North Queensland’s most beloved spots.”

Alexandra Falls at Cape Tribulation in Daintree Rainforest

1. Exploration of the Daintree Rainforest

If you have been to Queensland but you haven’t yet gone to the Daintree Rainforest, there’s a lot that you’ve been missing out on.

The Daintree Rainforest is one of the crown jewels not only of Tropical North Queensland, but also of the whole Land Down Under.

It’s listed as a World Heritage site and is thought to be the oldest jungle in the world. If only trees could talk, they could certainly tell just how cool it was to be around during the age of the dinosaurs. After all, Daintree would have basically been the real-life Jurassic Park!

Not everyone is allowed to go deep into this jungle and explore, but you can venture into a particular area of this massive rainforest: the Mossman Gorge. It’s relatively large in size, with an impressive 56,000-hectare area — but even that is still just a small fraction of the Daintree Rainforest.

Nevertheless, there is still an abundance of activities that you can partake in at the Mossman Gorge, including snorkeling in the river and participating  in a traditional smoking ceremony of the Kuku Yalanji tribe. You can also join other tours of the rainforest, conducted by friendly and professional guides.

Clownfish aren’t going to be catches of the day if you go fishing at the Great Barrier Reef.

2. Fishing expedition at the Great Barrier Reef

Near the Daintree Rainforest is another World Heritage site: the Great Barrier Reef. This wondrous locale is most well known for its crystal clear and calm waters, beautiful corals, and fantastic diving and snorkeling spots.

But aside from seeing the beauty of the underwater world up close and personal, you can also test out your angler skills at the Great Barrier Reef, as several fishing charter trips are offered there. One of the most popular charter trips is the one offered by Cairns Marlin Marina.

Book a fishing charter out of Cairns Marlin Marina.

It’s a fishing trip that’s suitable for all levels of anglers. The club will take you to a fantastic fishing spot at the reef. And if you have luck, you’ll reel in some good catches, such as trevally, codfish and coral trout — as well as the more common mackerel, marlin and tuna.

Mt. Uncle Distillery is one of the stops on Brett’s Outback Tasting Adventures.

3. Foodie bus tour adventures

If you consider yourself to be a foodie, then this adventure will certainly excite your taste buds, fill your tummy and be a treat for your other senses as well.

Brett’s Outback Tasting Adventures offers a bus tour of some of the greatest local restaurants, cafés and shops. It kicks off at Port Douglas, then takes you to seven different spots that offer delectable cuisines. Some of the participating sites could include: Gallo Dairyland, Jaques Coffee Plantation, Mt. Uncle Distillery, Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, Golden Drop Winery and the Platypus Hut, where you can watch the sunset.

Check out the cheese-making process at Gallo Dairyland.

Make sure you leave enough room for the food you’ll be tasting along the way — and there’s going to be a lot of it, that’s for sure!

While it’s technically a bus tour, you can use your own car to follow along if you prefer.

Pampering ahead!

4. Award-winning spa services at the Reef House

There’s no denying that what comes after all those invigorating yet taxing activities is a tired body.

That’s why while you’re in Palm Cove, you should have your mind and body reinvigorated by unwinding at the Reef House’s spa.

The Reef House is a world-class boutique hotel that offers luxurious accommodations. Relaxing at its spa is a great way to cap off your trip to Palm Cove — so you can go back home without a physical and mental toll on your body.  

Think about ending your trip with a massage to work through any knots you got hiking — and go home all blissed out.

A plethora of fun and unique activities await you at Palm Cove, whether it’s a relaxing fishing trip, an exotic food field trip, or a replenishing massage or facial. There’s always something to look forward to, no matter your age or personality. –Sophie Armstrong

 

A Tour of the Malecón Sculptures in Puerto Vallarta

You might recognize Caballero del Mar (The Boy on the Seahorse), but here’s a cheat sheet for the other statues along the PV boardwalk.

Wally has a seat and imitates his favorite sculpture on the Malecón, the creepy, cool La Rotunda del Mar (The Roundabout of the Sea).

If you spend any time in Puerto Vallarta, you’ll inevitably find yourself strolling along the Malecón, the boardwalk that lines the Bahía de Banderas. It’s not an old-fashioned wooden boardwalk as you might see in the States; it’s a wide concrete promenade lined with tourist shops, massive restaurants and clubs blaring music. It’s where everyone in PV goes to congregate, acting as a town square for tourists and locals alike.

You’ll have to get used to being constantly called out to (“hassled” is perhaps too harsh a word, but one you might be using after a few days). 

““Malecón” is simply the Spanish word for a waterfront promenade.”

The Malecón stretches for about a mile, from the edge of the Zona Romántica, over the Cuale River, and on into Centro, the center of town, up to the Hotel Rosita on Calle Treinta y Uno de Octubre. Its first incarnation was as a breakwater built in 1936 and named the Paseo de la Revolución. It later became the Paseo Díaz Ordaz before getting enlarged and becoming the Malecón as we now can experience it. (In fact, “malecón” is simply the Spanish word for this type of waterfront promenade.)

The iconic Los Archos (The Arches) that are now there are a replica, as the originals were damaged in 2002 by Hurricane Kenna. The first were built during the colonial period and brought from a hacienda in Guadalajara.

Los Archos frame Bahía de Banderas and the spit of land called Nuevo Vallarta, where many of the big resorts and hotels are located.

When you want to get some exercise, perhaps in the late afternoon, when the sun isn’t blazing down so fiercely, take a tour of the public sculptures that line the Malecón. 

Bailarines de Vallarta (Dancers of Vallarta) by Jim Demetro, 2006

Fun fact: The couple is performing the jarabe tapatio, the Mexican hat dance, which originated as a courtship ritual. 

San Pascual Bailón by Ramiz Barquet, 2008

Fun fact: The 16th century Spanish Franciscan friar, aka Paschal Baylón, became the patron saint of cooks.

La Fuente de la Amistad (The Friendship Fountain) by James “Bud” Bottoms and Octavio González Gutiérrez, 1987

Fun fact: The sculpture was a gift from Puerto Vallarta’s sister city, Santa Barbara, California. The dolphins symbolize peace, protection and brotherhood between the two cities.

The artists were inspired by a myth of the Chumash, a native people from what’s now Southern California. The Earth goddess, Hutash, created a rainbow bridge to connect the Chumash from their island to the mainland. And even though she warned those crossing not to look down, some did, losing their balance and falling. But as they plummeted into the ocean, the goddess transformed them into dolphins so they would not die.

Caballero del Mar (The Boy on the Seahorse) by Rafael Zamarripa, 1976

Fun fact: The first statue to be erected on the Malecón, it has become a symbol of the city. 

Triton and the Nereid by Carlos Espino, 1990

Fun fact: In Greek mythology, Triton was the son of Poseidon, the god of the sea, and nereids were sea nymphs who would help sailors during storms.

Lluvia (Rain) by Jovian, 2020

Fun fact: The artist says, “I tried to present a man with open arms as a symbol of openness, positively receiving what the world offers him with a gesture of happiness and fulfillment, eyes looking up into the rain without that affecting his peace but rather enjoying the water that falls on his body and making him feel free and alive.

That is what Vallarta is for me: a city with great openness, which welcomes locals and strangers with open arms. I have never known another city where people who come from other places feel so at home.” 

En Búsqueda de la Razón (In Search of Reason) by Sergio Bustamante, 2000

Fun fact: Another of our faves, this statue divides its audience — some think the mother is pleading with her children to come down, while others think she’s encouraging them to explore new heights.

La Rotunda del Mar (The Roundabout of the Sea) by Alejandro Colunga, 1996

Fun fact: These strange steampunk creatures, a fantastical mélange of humans, animals and tech tools, are inspired by the folk tales the artist heard as a child. Incidentally (and perhaps not surprisingly?), this is Duke and my favorite sculpture along the Malecón.

Naturaleza Como Madre (Nature as Mother) by Tapatio Adrián Reynoso, 1997

Fun fact: If the shape confuses you a bit, it’s a wave that’s becoming a woman…while balancing on a snail shell. 

Unicornio de la Buena Fortuna (Unicorn of Good Fortune) by Aníbal Riebeling, 2011

Fun fact: No surprise, given its name, but it’s said to be good luck to touch it. In fact, the city had to raise the base to help deter people from climbing on top of it for pictures.

El Sutil Comepiedras (The Subtle Rock-Eater) by Jonás Gutiérrez, 2006

Fun fact: No one knows why exactly this man wants to eat rocks (as if there’s anything subtle about that), aside from the fact that he’s supposed to be a magician.

The statue is a great spot to watch the Voladores de Papantla spin around a pole on ropes attached to their feet. These “Flying Men” are part of an ancient ritual.

La Nostalgia by José Ramiz Barquet, 1976

Fun fact: One of the oldest on the Malecón, placed there in 1984, the sculpture is inspired by the love story between the sculptor and his wife, Nelly Galván-Duque Tamborrel. The couple met but then lost touch for 27 years before meeting again and getting married.

The Millennia by Mathís Lídice, 2001

Fun fact: There’s a double-helix DNA strand at the bottom to show that humans evolved from the sea alongside octopi, fish, frogs and lizards. This is followed by the French Charlemagne, the king of the Francs, bearing a sword, then the pre-Columbian poet-king Nezahualcoyotl. And the future is represented by a woman releasing a dove of peace.

So take a break from sunbathing, get a little culture and take some fun photos — it’ll give you an excuse to avoid the incessant hawkers trying to lure you into a sale. –Wally

48 Hours in Adelaide, Australia: A Local’s Travel Guide

A two-day itinerary for an amazing city that’s been overlooked in favor of Melbourne and Sydney for too long. With aboriginal art and great wine regions, it’s no wonder publications are heaping accolades on Adelaide.

It’s time visitors to Australia put Adelaide on their itinerary.

Tucked down in the middle of the south coast of Australia, Adelaide has played second (or is it third?) fiddle to Melbourne and Sydney for years. Tourists flocked to both of those cities — and while they are amazing places to visit if you’re in Australia, those who don’t visit Adelaide are certainly missing out.

In 2014, Adelaide finally started getting the recognition it deserved — it was named as one of the top cities to visit in the world by Lonely Planet. Then, in 2017, the whole state was crowned as one of the best regions to visit — again by Lonely Planet. And in 2021, Adelaide was declared Australia’s most livable city and the third most livable city in the world, according to the Economist Intelligence Unit’s Global Liveability Index. 

“In 2014, Adelaide finally started getting the recognition it deserved.

It was named as one of the top cities to visit by Lonely Planet. Then, in 2017, the state was crowned as one of the best regions to visit — again by Lonely Planet.

And in 2021, Adelaide was declared the third most livable city in the world, according to the Economist. ”

As you can imagine, these accolades have led to an influx of people from all over the world. And they have made us locals want to ensure that visitors have the best time.

If you’re thinking about spending a weekend in Adelaide, make the most of what this gorgeous part of Australia has to offer. Keep reading for an essential guide to Adelaide: what to eat, where to stay and of course, what to do. 

See what all the fuss is about. We’ll help you pack a lot into even a two-day visit to Adelaide.

Before You Go: A Bit About Adelaide 

I hope you’re prepared for a busy 48 hours — and I mean busy in a good way, because there is so much to see, do, taste and experience.

But before we dive into the itinerary, let’s talk about some facts about Adelaide.

Adelaide is the capital of South Australia, the state that’s in the middle of the bottom half of the country. The city is located right on the coast, toward the center of the state, and is actually quite small in population, with around 1.5 million people calling it home.

The city has a strong indigenous history, with the area also known as Kaurna land, named for the traditional habitants of the area. Many areas in Adelaide honor their indigenous roots, with traditional names still being used.

In terms of weather, Adelaide does have seasons. In summer it can get quite hot, but unlike other tropical areas, like Queensland, the heat isn’t sticky and uncomfortable. In winter, it can get pretty cold — so, depending on what you’re looking for in a trip, make sure you take the seasons into consideration. If you’re looking for warm, pleasant weather, February to April is a great time of year to visit.

The city itself is convenient — not overly large and divided into a grid, and because of this you’ll be able to easily navigate getting around. There is also great public transport, with trams taking you from the CBD (central business district) down to Glenelg, a popular beach suburb of Adelaide.

But where to stay? If you’re looking for fun nightlife and shopping, staying in the CBD might be a great option, with plenty of hotels and Airbnbs around. If you’re looking for something with a beach vibe, then Glenelg is the area for you. And if you’re looking to spoil yourself, try the Sequoia Lodge, a luxury accommodation in Adelaide Hills.

Pamper yourself with a stay at the Sequoia Lodge in Adelaide Hills.

So, now that you know a little bit about the city and where to stay, it’s time to get down to the nitty gritty.

Two Days in Adelaide

Day 1: Adelaide City

Like I said before, getting around the Adelaide CBD is pretty easy. The walkable CBD and convenient transport mean it’s a breeze to explore.

To get your first day started, I highly recommend that you take a walk along the River Torrens. You can enjoy the beautiful views and do a little people-watching — something I love to do in any place I visit. 

You can follow the river all the way down to East Terrace, which is where you will find a “bridge of love” — where couples have hung a padlock to celebrate their commitment. Not only is this a very romantic place to visit, it’s also where you’re going to turn off from the river and make your way toward North Terrace.

The Migration Museum is housed in what was once the Destitute Asylum, a place that offered support to immigrants.

To get to North Terrace, you can take Kintore Avenue, site of the Migration Museum. This is where you can learn about more than two centuries of migration to Australia — and it’s free to visit. Even if you only have a half hour to duck in, it’s well worth it.

The gorgeous façade of the South Australian Museum

After the Migration Museum, if you hi want to keep up with your cultural exploration of Adelaide, then on your way to North Terrace, visit the South Australian Museum, the State Library of South Australia and the Art Gallery of South Australia. At the museum, be sure to check out the Aboriginal Australian exhibition. And the library has the incredible Mortlock Wing, which wouldn’t look out of place in Harry Potter. 

Is this Hogwarts? Nope, it’s the famed Mortlock Wing of the State Library of South Australia.

The Art Gallery of South Australia

Once you’ve wrapped up at the museums and galleries, head to the Botanic Gardens of South Australia. A free guided tour is offered every day at 10:30 a.m. Here you’ll get to see a variety of  indigenous plants, shrubs and flowers. 

The majestic Palm House at the botanic gardens

By this point, you’ve probably worked up an appetite. Good news: Across the road from the botanic gardens, you’ll find plenty of restaurants, including an awesome Thai restaurant called Golden Boy. There are more restaurant options en route to Rundle Street, which is where Rundle Mall is, the famous shopping strip of Adelaide. 

On Grenfell Street, the next block over from Rundle, you’ll find the incredible Tandanya National Aboriginal Cultural Institute. You can buy gorgeous art prints and souvenirs in the gallery shop.

After the cultural center, make your way down to Central Market — it’s a bit of a walk — so you may as well take the scenic route along King William Street. That way you’ll get to see some of Adelaide’s beautiful old buildings like the General Post Office and the Town Hall.

Central Market is your next destination and is the Southern Hemisphere’s largest covered market. This is where you will find the most delicious fresh produce — and if you’re going to stop anywhere, make sure it’s the Smelly Cheese shop!

Cheeses Christ! This is Wally’s dream come true! The Smelly Cheese Company at Central Market

Now, this is where you need to decide whether you want to stay in the city for the nightlife or if you want to spend some time down at the beach. While the CBD has plenty to see and do and great restaurants to eat at, I recommend taking the tram to Glenelg to enjoy watching the day turn into night.

It takes around 30 minutes to get to Glenelg by tram, and it’s worth it — plus, you get to see some of the prettiest areas of Adelaide along the way. 

Hop on the tram — the seaside suburb of Glenelg is just half an hour away!

If it’s a warm day, you can enjoy a swim, or if you want to stay dry, why not grab a drink at the Glenelg Surf Life Saving Club and watch the sunset? Glenelg also has some great restaurants, with amazing seafood options and views of the water.

If you’re staying in the city, you can take the tram back or grab a taxi. Have a nightcap at any of the awesome bars in the city. Now, while there is always plenty on, I recommend trying to get in relatively early, because tomorrow is going to be another busy day!

The Barossa Valley is one of three wine regions outside of Adelaide.

Day 2: The Wine Regions

You cannot possibly visit this region without tasting the local wine. The Adelaide CBD is actually close to three of the best wine regions in Australia: the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Adelaide Hills.

Before you get to the wine tasting, you need to line your stomach with a delicious breakfast. If you’re in the CBD, a great brunch place is Crack Kitchen. 

Once you’ve eaten, it’s time to get to tasting. It’s honestly hard to choose between all of the wine regions, though the Barossa is likely to be the one you’ve heard of — it’s where Rockford, Wolf Blass and Jacob’s Creek all come from. It’s northeast of the city.

McLaren Vale is south of the city and offers incredible views of the water, and the Adelaide Hills wine region is about 25 minutes east of the CBD.

The d’Arenberg Cube in McLaren Vale sounds like a trip. It offers a tasting room, the Alternate Realities Museum, a Salvador Dalí exhibition and other sensory delights.

Visiting the wine regions does take a bit of planning because unfortunately, there isn’t really any public transport out there. But there are many different options: day tours, hop-on-and-off bus tours or renting a car. With that last option, you do get the flexibility of being able to spend more time in certain areas — though it also means you may not get to enjoy the tastings to their full capacity. 

If I had to choose one region, I would probably go with the Adelaide Hills. Not only do you have the benefit of enjoying Adelaide’s oldest wine region and the gorgeous vineyards, but there is so much more to do as well. 

Who can resist the opportunity to see koala bears up close? Head to the Cleland Wildlife Park to spot these cuties, along with kangaroos, wallabies, dingoes and other native animals.

In the Hills, the Cleland Wildlife Park offers a chance to meet a koala up close.

A 45-minute drive away, the Big Rocking Horse — which is exactly what it sounds like — needs to be seen to be believed.

And the picturesque traditional European village of Hahndorf is home to vineyards, bakeries, galleries, boutique shops and distilleries.

The Old Mill in the traditional European village of Hahndorf

Have dinner at the award-winning Hardy’s Verandah Restaurant on the Mount Lofty Estate on the same grounds as Sequoia Lodge.

Even if you don’t stop in the Hills, it’s a beautiful place to take a scenic drive through.

As you can see, Adelaide is a stunning city that offers its visitors so much to see and do. Of course I recommend spending as long as you can, but it’s easy to get a great sampling of all it has to offer in a mere 48 hours. –Sophie Armstrong

 

A Perfect Morning in La Condesa, Mexico City

One of CDMX’s hippest hoods has its own distinct vibe with the racetrack-turned-oval-park Avenida Amsterdam and an array of eye-catching Art Deco architecture, green spaces and cafés. 

If you’re in Mexico City, you’ve got to take a walk around the colorful colonia of La Condesa — especially the pedestrian-friendly, lush Avenida Amsterdam.

At the beginning of the 20th century, Mexico City began to experience the influence of a new international artistic movement, which had great importance in graphic and industrial design, the decorative arts and architecture. What was this revolutionary style? Art Deco, of course. 

Art and design are still a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa. Here’s how to spend a pleasant morning in the colonia (neighborhood).

“Art and design are a driving force in the hip, pedestrian-friendly neighborhood of La Condesa.”

This periwinkle house and sign became a familiar guidepost for us.

1. Go round Avenida Amsterdam and the surrounding streets.

Start your day by heading to Avenida Amsterdam in Hipódromo, the heart of La Condesa. The avenue gets its shape from a former horse racing track. 

Following the old horse racing track, Avenida Amsterdam is now a median green space in the heart of La Condesa.

Stroll along the central pedestrian median of Avenida Amsterdam and stop to gaze at La Fuente de la Glorieta Popocatépetl. The 1927 Art Deco fountain by José Gómez Echeverría is popularly known as the Bomba. The fountain consists of a dome supported by four white columns decorated with tiles. An aperture at the top allows sunlight to illuminate it, if only for a fleeting moment. 

There are lots of Art Deco delights to discover while wandering around La Condesa, including Edificio San Martín.

As you wander this neighborhood, admire the Art Deco and Streamline Moderne doorways and façades of mansions and apartments that line the streets. The San Martin building, designed by Ernesto Ignacio Buenrosto, with its symmetrical entrance and canopy on Avenida México, perfectly characterizes the Art Deco style.

Wally’s all set for brunch at the cozy back patio at Frëims in La Condesa. He and Duke of course loved the mural.

2. Grab breakfast on Frëims’ charming back patio.

Fuel up for the day at one of our favorite spots in La Condesa, Frëims (Avenida Amsterdam 62B). The space occupies the renovated first floor of a former 1920s home reimagined as a bookstore, record shop and restaurant serving food and a variety of coffee drinks. 

We were seated at a table on the sun-dappled patio. While we were there, the gallery and garden wall mural featured a collaborative installation by Colombian artist Sofía Echeverri and Oaxacan illustrator Vero Anaya called The Origins of Knowledge. The artists describe their imaginative pieces as embodying the concept of “soróbora”: the juxtaposition of sorority, a society of women, and ouroboros, the snake that nurtures itself and symbolizes infinity by eating its own tail. 

Lemon ricotta pancakes

Eggs Benedict

I tried the lemon ricotta pancakes and Wally got his usual huevos benedictinos, paired with a coffee for me and a latte for Wally. We also ordered two Vecinos, a fresh-squeezed juice blend of pear, lime, cucumber and cardamom. 

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ANOTHER BREAKFAST OPTION: Ojo de Agua in La Condesa

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A large section of Parque México is devoted to a dog park.

3. Take a walk in the park…Parque México, that is. 

Officially Parque San Martín, La Condesa’s large urban park was built on the former site of the elite Jockey Club de México — and everyone refers to it as Parque México now.  Built in 1927 the park is a favorite among families, dog walkers and skateboarders. 

This plaza, named for Charles Lindbergh, offers a space for dog walkers, children and rollerbladers to congregate.

Bougainvillea covers the pergola that surrounds the open-air theater.

At the front of the park, there’s a communal space consisting of five pillars topped with a canopy and bordered by a pergola. The exterior walls are covered with graffiti and when we walked by, we watched a group of kids learning to rollerblade.

Nice jugs! El Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers) was modeled after Luz Jiménez, once the go-to model for indigenous Mexicans.

Standing serenely in front of the open-air Teatro al Aire Libre Coronel Lindbergh, named in honor of the American aviator, is a concrete figure of a nude woman holding a pair of jugs (literally). Known as Fuente de los Cántaros (Fountain of the Pitchers), it depicts Luz Jiménez, who modeled for its creator, José María Fernández Urbina, as well as Diego Rivera and Tina Modotti. She was considered the it girl archetype of the Mexican indigenous woman.

This clock tower with Art Deco ironwork, designed by Leonardo Noriega, has bells that chime to mark the hour.

Every visitor to Mexico City should spend some time in this colonia — if not use it as a base, as we did, staying in the delightful and chic Octavia Casa. –Duke

Catch the Bazar Sábado While You Can

The ephemeral San Ángel market in Mexico City is worth saving a Saturday for.

Handicrafts, artworks, pottery and other goodies are on sale at the Saturday Bazaar — one day a week only.

Unlike the village of Brigadoon, which rises out of the Scottish mist once every 100 years, the no-less-enchanting Bazar Sábado in the colonia (neighborhood) of San Ángel in Mexico City bursts into life every Saturday. An artisanal market rises and fills the hilly cobblestone streets, Plaza del Carmen and surrounding shops.

Originally, the colonia, located southwest of Centro, the city center, was a weekend retreat for Spanish nobles, who built their 19th century colonial-style homes here. 

“The enchanting Bazar Sábado in San Ángel bursts into life every Saturday. The artisanal market fills the hilly cobblestone streets, plaza and surrounding shops.”

The handicraft portion of the bazaar lines the street.

Shopping in San Ángel, CDMX

A few of the shops, including Caracol Púrpura, have beautiful contemporary and traditional objects for sale but were too expensive for us. We wanted to take some pictures to write about their shop but they told us no photos when they saw us getting ready to take a few snaps. We managed to capture a few anyway — we are the Not So Innocents Abroad after all! 

A high-end shop in San Ángel

No photos allowed!

Long and lean Catrinas

Pressed tin depictions of the Virgin Mary

Colorful garlands woven from palm leaves

A fun selection of masks for sale

These adorable tiny fruits are made of marzipan.

The next shop we entered was called Paskwarho. While Wally and I looked at a display of hand-painted dishware, we met Arturo, an expat and cofounder, who relocated from Chicago. I’m assuming that my Midwestern accent and Spanglish tipped him off. He kindly said to me that even after living in the country for many years he still doesn’t understand everything that’s said to him. 

We bought a papier-mâché skull rattle with an articulated jaw that was handmade by one of the women who works in the shop as well as a burnt orange and white casserole baking dish hand-painted in the capulineado style, a pointillist flower pattern named after the town where they’re made. 

A large howling wolf alebrije — fantastical Mexican folk art creatures

A store devoted to Día de Muertos

Skeletons, skulls and marigolds

Artisans Galore

Outside are a multitude of tented stalls selling everything from handicrafts to jewelry to pottery and more. We purchased a couple of T-shirts and a change purse to keep our growing collection of coins.

The market can get crowded, but uttering a simple, apologetic, “Con permiso” goes a long way and will help you pass others politely. It’s like saying, “Excuse me” in English. 

A delightful mural in the building that houses part of the Bazar Sábado

The Bazar Sábado was founded in 1960 as the first of its kind before relocating to its current home in 1965 and contains hundreds of artists and an open-air interior courtyard with a restaurant. After taking our temperature and offering us hand sanitizer, we were permitted to enter. 

There’s a restaurant in the central courtyard, where women cook up meals on large griddles.

Follow the sign.

And grab a drink at the small bar.

A devilishly cool sculpture hanging in one of the rooms adjoining the courtyard

We found a stand for Cervecería Monstruo de Agua, a Mexico City-based microbrewery offering a distinctive range of beers. They were one of my favorite discoveries on this visit. I had purchased a couple of bottles of Sugoi, a blonde ale brewed with agave, ginger and lemongrass at a small beer shop in La Condesa. I mean, who can resist a brand whose mascot is an axolotl, an amphibian with a long tail, six hornlike appendages and bulging eyes and whose name translates as “water monster” in Náhuatl? Not us! We ended up buying a small round glass with the creature embossed on it. 

Whimsical animal sculptures

Molcajetes made of volcanic stone are a must for home-made guacamole.

We were delighted to discover Cerámica San Germán, a shop filled with traditional hand-painted ceramics and stoneware from the town of Tonalá. We purchased several bowls and a plate depicting the nahual, a jaguar-like cat with a smiling face. 

Also of note were the wares of Silva Dufour. I loved the colors and satin-finish glazes of their ceramic objects, which included scarab beetles and contemporary interpretations of traditional helmet masks. 

One of the artists at work

When we exited the bazaar, we brought the unfinished open bottles of Monstruo de Agua with us. An elderly local artist in the park, which is filled with painters selling their artworks, told us that it’s prohibited to drink alcohol outside. I’m not sure the police would have noticed, but we returned to the building to finish our beers. Better to err on the side of caution than to risk violating the law in another country. 

The plaza with this fountain is surrounded by artists selling paintings.

Which luchador mask would you choose?

Wally purchased a few desiccated Roses of Jericho (aka resurrection plants) from a street vendor as gifts for his coworkers, and we wandered down the hill into Happening, a store and gallery that carried cool clothes and objects from local artists and designers. While there I saw La Escalera, a bold graphic print by Boston-born, Mexico City-based artist Sophie Greenspan. Wally remarked that it reminded him of the modern architecture of Luis Barragán, which we had experienced earlier in the day on a tour with The Traveling Beetle. 

The impressive tiled cupolas of Nuestra Señora del Carmen are visible from the end of the thoroughfare — just a stone’s throw from the bustling market area. 

We’ll definitely return to San Ángel on our next trip to CDMX (we’re utterly smitten), especially for the basement crypt at the Templo y Museo del Carmen to see the mummified bodies of wealthy donors to the Carmelite order. And for a chance to view the embalmed severed hand of former Mexican President Álvaro Obregón in the basement of the WWI monument to him. Who knew such a charming neighborhood held such gruesome secrets? –Duke

 

El Bazar Sábado

Plaza San Jacinto 11
San Ángel
Álvaro Obregón
01000 Ciudad de México
CDMX
Mexico

Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden: Mexico’s Eden

Our budding romance with this lush nature preserve, which gets our vote for the best thing to do in PV. 

The orange-hued Hacienda de Oro houses a restaurant and gift shop, with the Cactus House to the right.

At first, we didn’t embrace the laidback, beach-oriented vibe of Puerto Vallarta. Duke and I are used to filling our itineraries with things to do — and the most culture PV has to offer are drag shows like Mama Tits’ Confessions of a Ho! (you couldn’t make this shit up).

Needless to say, we were excited to learn about the Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden. And, not surprisingly, our trip there was our favorite part of our vacation.

“ The most culture PV has to offer are drag shows like Mama Tits’ Confessions of a Ho!

So we were excited to learn about the Puerto Vallarta Botanic Garden. And, not surprisingly, our trip there was our favorite part of our vacation.”

We didn’t come fully prepared — no bug spray, Duke wearing sandals and me in suede Vans — but kudos to you for reading this to prepare for your visit. 

Look how happy exploring the botanic garden made Wally.

Take a Hike

If you’re into hiking, there are numerous trails through the surrounding jungle. We started along one behind the Cactus House and found ourselves down by the river. I squatted down to wet my hair and neck. I’m not sure if we would have gone swimming in the brown water even if we had swimsuits, but it might be a good idea to wear yours just in case you really need to cool off. 

The Cactus House is filled with succulents and, yes, cacti.

The fountain in front of the Hacienda de Oro features an eagle, a symbol of Mexico.

Wally cools off in the river.

A group of teens go swimming.

We continued over some slippery rocks and passed a group of local teens wading in the river before continuing along the Jaguar Trial. A sign informed us that its rating level was “difficult.”

“Would’ve been nice to have that marked on the map,” I muttered. 

But Jaguar turned out not to be too difficult; it’s just uphill for much of the time. I was kind of hoping we’d run across the eponymous feline, but no such luck. 

The adorable pink chapel on the grounds, Our Lady of the Gardens

Goin’ to the Chapel

After the hike, we wandered a few of the areas near the restaurant and gift shop, including the octagonal conservatory of native plants, before crossing the Bridge of Dreams and stumbling upon the adorable pink church, Our Lady of the Gardens.

You can’t tell from this angle, but this conservatory is octagonal-shaped.

A priest in a jaguar pelt

Masks cover the back wall.

A statue of a man holding maize, one of the most important crops to the Mesoamericans who lived here

This pyramid is a replica of the one at La Casa Azul, Frida Kahlo’s home museum in Mexico City.

“If they had planters like this at the gift shop, I would have bought some,” Duke says.

Duke on the Bridge of Dreams

El Puente de los Sueños leads to the chapel.

We couldn’t go inside the small chapel because they were putting up new wallpaper — a  bright yellow background filled with plants, birds and butterflies. It’s going to give the space a modern feel and make it oh-so-Instagrammable. 

Wally on the pink stairs in front of the chapel

The man in charge of the project came over to chat with us, giving us advice (buy some insect repellent and carry it everywhere in defense of the no-see-ums; take a day trip to San Sebastián). 

The Infant of Prague in the graveyard

The Virgin Mary watches over some tombs.

Graves, some with elaborate statuary like this small church with the Virgin Mary within, line the hills on either side of the chapel.

There are graves scattered on either side of the hill leading up to the church — with those of pets to one side. If I happen to die while I’m in the area, I couldn’t hope for a better eternal resting place. 

When the staff put out this tray of fruit, one colorful species of bird after another stopped by to dine.

Birdwatching at the Hacienda

By this time, we were hungry and in need of refreshment, so we went back to the Hacienda de Oro and had a great lunch — guacamole, grilled fish tacos, chicken quesadillas Xochimilco and two Cadillac margaritas, por su puesto. (Incidentally, the margs were quite strong and left us un poco barrato). 

You can’t take a break on the Hacienda de Oro balcony without getting a margarita. Just be careful: They’re strong!

The food was tasty — whipped up in this open-air kitchen.

A violist stood by the tables playing songs, including “Dust in the Wind.” At first I was a bit annoyed we’d be pressured into tipping him, but it ended up being nice having the strains of music waft around us, and when I looked up at him, his eyes crinkled with a grin — and I didn’t mind slipping him some pesos in appreciation.

He was a nice guy and during one of his breaks, he told us to look over the balcony, pointing down to a spot where the staff had left out tropical fruits to attract a variety of birds in a rainbow array of bright colors. 

A hummingbird at the feeder on the balcony

Next to stop by was a woodpecker.

He saw how excited we were — I could take up birdwatching if they were all this colorful and amazing — and kept pointing out new birds to us. 

After lunch we did some shopping. I can tell you that the handicrafts here are among the best you’ll find in the PV area. (The ubiquitous markets along the waterfront, which peddle tourist-oriented fare, get dismissively dubbed “mercados de basura,” or “trash markets,” by Duke.)

And the prices aren’t bad. I bought a blue wool dinosaur stuffed animal, a cloth Frida ornament and a ceramic skull rattle. 

Plants and pots for sale

A skeleton and marigold for Día de los Muertos

St. Francis holding a skull to contemplate death

We found the items on sale at the gift shop to be of high quality at a fair price.

To wrap up our visit, we went back to the main road and found the offshoot that leads to the Gazebo Bridge and then crossed the Swinging Bridge to the Vanilla Plantation. 

Duke wasn’t afraid to cross the Swinging Bridge.

Wally in the ironwork gazebo

A plant-filled fountain we passed en route to the Vanilla Plantation

Ready to call it a day, we headed back up the road to the entrance, where there’s an open-air hut. The staff there can call you a taxi with a fixed price. The Zona Románitca is just under 40 minutes north.

Lily pads and lotuses in one of the ponds in the gardens

All in all, we spent the better part of the day at the botanic garden, getting in a hike, eating a great meal, seeing exotic birds, doing some shopping and exploring the lush grounds. Tickets are well worth the 200 peso (about $9.50 when we visited) admission charge. By the way, kids under 4 get in free.

The beach has its perks. And drag shows are fun once in a while. But we wouldn’t visit PV without a trip here. It’s anything but your garden variety attraction. –Wally

 

Jardín Botánico Vallarta (Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens)

Carretera Puerto Vallarta
Carretera Costera a Barra de Navidad Kilómetro 24
48425 Jalisco
México

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Secret Gardens: Read More

Animal Symbolism in Pre-Columbian Pottery at the Museo Nacional de Antropología

The meanings behind monkeys, jaguars, ducks, bats, dogs and other animals in Mesoamerican myths as depicted in pre-Columbian artifacts at the National Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City.

A lot of the exhibits at the National Museum of Anthropology in CDMX depict animals — each of which held symbolic meaning for the ancient peoples of Mexico.

Something that’s always fascinated me about ancient cultures are the similarities in beliefs with other civilizations around the world. Despite being oceans apart, many shared highly developed civilizations and a deep reverence for the natural world. 

We saw this in action during our last visit to Mexico City, when we finally made it to the Museo Nacional de Antropología. The scale and scope of the galleries at the museum is dizzying. Wally and I don’t like to overdo it, so we spent half a day just wandering through the first floor. One of the highlights for me was the large number and variety of Mesoamerican animal-shaped effigy vessels on display. Like other ancient societies, the pre-Columbian peoples believed that certain animals embodied a spiritual energy in which sacred beings manifested themselves. 

“Conquistadors developed such an appetite for Xoloitzcuintli Mexican hairless dogs that they nearly ate them into extinction. ”

These ritual objects were not used in everyday life; they were often placed in tombs as burial goods. Animals played a key role at all levels of society and symbolically linked the three cosmic realms of the universe: the heavens, earth and underworld.

Aztec cosmology posited that time is cyclical — and that we’re in the Fifth Sun, the final cycle of the world.

Here Comes the (Fifth) Sun

According to the Aztec legend of the Fifth Sun, time is cyclical. Four suns, or eras, have passed, created by a different deity and successively destroyed. Each cycle included inhabitants who died or transformed into various creatures, including monkeys, turkeys, dogs and fish. Our present world happens to be the Fifth Sun. 

Brightly colored feathers were used in religious ceremonies.

The pre-Columbian people used animals for a variety of purposes. Parrots and macaws, for example, provided a source of food as well as prized blue-green plumage used to adorn headdresses. However, animals also held great symbolic significance. They served as cultural and cosmic metaphors based on their habitat and natural features. 

Ducks were particularly holy to Mesoamericans, as they moved between three realms: water, the sky and land.

Just Ducky

Birds symbolized the celestial realm, the sun and moon in particular, and were considered messengers between the natural and spiritual worlds. 

Ducks were particularly holy, perhaps because they ticked all the boxes: They can fly, walk on land and dive underwater, possessing the ability to travel freely between these different spheres. 

Ducks and related birds were also associated with the wind god Ehécatl (pronounced “Eh-heh-ka-tul”), one of the avatars of Quetzacoatl, the great plumed serpent. The deity was frequently portrayed with a duckbill-like appendage on his face, which he used to summon the winds. 

The Maya considered bodies of water to be pathways to the Underworld. Ducks and other waterfowl were ritualistically sacrificed, eaten and used to ward off demons.

This little guy represents a coatimundi, which figures in a Mayan myth that involved a decapitated head in the Underworld.

Coati Encounters of the First Kind

The coatimundi, or coati, are members of the raccoon family. They have distinct mask-like markings on their faces, resembling a combination of kinkajou, anteater, raccoon and bear cub. 

In the Popol Vuh, the sacred text of the Maya, a bat rips off the head of Hunahpu, one of the Hero Twins, and takes it to the ball court of Xibalbá (the Underworld) to be used in place of a rubber ball. A coati fashions a fake head from a calabash squash and places it on the shoulders of the headless hero. Hanapu’s brother Xbalanque places Hanapu’s head back on his shoulders, and the brothers succeed in defeating the Lords of Xibalbá.

Monkeys represented the good (luck and joy) and the bad (immorality).

Monkeys: Sacred Simians 

Spider and howler monkeys are the two most common species native to the tropical lowlands of Mexico. Playful and social in nature, these nimble primates live in the high forest canopy and are mankind’s closest living relative. They were symbols of good fortune and joy, as well as pleasure and immorality — the latter of which was punishable by death. Monkeys were domesticated and kept as pets by both Zapotec and Aztec nobility and weren’t used for food or sacrifice. 

The “leftovers” of the Second Sun cycle of the universe were turned into jabbering monkeys.

Ehecatl, the Aztec god of the wind, was associated with monkeys.

Monkeys were also associated with the Aztec wind god Ehécatl. According to the legend of the Fifth Sun, the disobedient survivors of the Second Sun, whose cataclysmic end included hurricanes and floods, were transformed into monkeys by Ehécatl. Deprived of the ability to speak, they were condemned to emit meaningless noises for the rest of their existence. 

A person’s spirit would hold onto a Xoloitzcuintli dog’s tail to be guided through the Underworld.

Dogs Truly Are Man’s Best Friend

Before the Chihuahua became the most popular dog breed from Mexico, there was the hairless Xoloitzcuintli (pronounced “Show-low-eats-queent-lee”). This breed got its name from Xolotl, the god of lightning and death, and itzcuintli, dog. To the ancient Aztec and Maya, the canine was created by Xolotl to guard the living and guide the souls of the dead through the perils of Mictlán, the Underworld. Deceased souls held onto the dogs’ tails as they led their owners through the afterlife. They were also bred as a source of food — in fact, the conquistadors developed such an appetite for them that they nearly ate them into extinction. 

The most common depictions of Xoloitzcuintles take the form of small ceramic vessels known as Colima dogs for the modern state of Mexico where they are commonly found. More than a few of these red clay objects are depicted with chubby bodies — this may be an indication that they were fattened up to be eaten.

Frida Khalo and Diego Rivera owned a brood of Xolos, and Wally and I saw a few sunning themselves at el Museo Dolores Olmedo, which houses a large collection of works by this famous duo.

Grasshoppers were associated with agriculture and fertility — but could also mean destruction.

The Grasshopper: the Insect That Sings for Its Supper

The name of Chapultepec Park, where the Museo Nacional de Antropología is located, comes from Náhuatl for “Hill of the Grasshopper.” This hill rises from the center of the park, was a sacred place for the Aztec and is where Chapultepec Castle stands. 

Grasshoppers were associated with agriculture and fertility and were associated with the period following the annual rainfall, which brought an abundance of the insects. 

In addition to their symbolic importance, the Aztec snacked on chapulines, cooking them on clay surfaces with spices. 

To the Mexica, they represented the duality of abundance vs. destruction: Drought triggers the solitary grasshopper to become social, changing color from green to yellow and black. Under such conditions, they move in swarms, devouring crops and vegetation.

Bats were paired with the Underworld, which was accessible via the caves they live in.

Bats Out of Hell

Bats are nocturnal creatures that travel the sky by night and hide in caves by day, which Mesoamericans believed were portals to the Underworld. 

The stuck-out tongue on this bat statue hinted at the creature’s blood-sucking nature and connected it to the practice of human sacrifice.

The Zapotec venerated the god Camazotz, who had the head of a bat and was associated with night, death and sacrifice. Most likely due to the sanguinary diet of the vampire bat, native to most regions of Mexico, where it feeds on the blood of mammals, the creature became associated with rites of bloodletting and human sacrifice practiced to honor the gods and secure bountiful harvests. 

A common symbol in ancient Mesoamerica, the jaguar was linked to power and protection from evil.

Jaguars Hit the Spot(s)

The jaguar was one of the most important sacred symbols of power, ferocity and protection from evil. According to Mexica lore, a jaguar and an eagle both sacrificed themselves to bring light to the world, and in doing so became gods. 

Jaguars were believed to have the ability to travel between the worlds.

The Maya connected the jaguar’s spots with heavenly lights.

The jaguar is closely associated with the “night sun” (the sun during its nightly trip through the Underworld) and darkness as well. As such, the big cat was thought to have the ability to move between the worlds of the living and the dead. The Maya venerated the feline, seeing heavenly lights in its spots. –Duke

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RELATED: Death Cults of Ancient Mexico

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Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel, Mexico City

A tour of this Colonial Baroque Catholic church built for the Discalced Carmelites in one of CDMX’s most charming neighborhoods.

Wally’s a bit obsessed with the domes of Nuestra Señora del Carmen in San Ángel in Mexico City.

Those domes! Those wondrous brightly tiled domes! I didn’t want to stop looking at them. There was something captivating about their faded glory. 

We spotted them in our Uber en route to el Bazaar Sábado, the Saturday Market in the charming CDMX colonia (neighborhood) of San Ángel. 

“Nuestra Señora del Carmen was built for the strangely named order of Discalced Carmelites (known colloquially as Barefoot Carmelites for their tendency to forgo footwear). ”

The church was founded for the order of Discalced Carmelites (aka the Barefoot Carmelites).

So, after we finished shopping at the market (and being told we couldn’t drink our beers while walking through the square outside), Duke and I knew we had to explore the church at the base of the hill. And thankfully, unlike in the States, we’ve found churches in Mexico to be unlocked any time we’ve wanted to go in. 

The church is designed in the Baroque Colonial style — with a plain façade and an ornate gilded altarpiece.

The Discalced Carmelites: Barefoot but Not Pregnant 

Design and construction of Nuestra Señora del Carmen was overseen by Fray Andrés de San Miguel between 1615 and 1626 for the strangely named order of Discalced Carmelites (known colloquially as Barefoot Carmelites for their tendency to forgo footwear). The order was established in 1562 by Saint Teresa of Avila, an epileptic Roman Catholic nun. 

The Barefoot Carmelite nuns stayed in their cloisters, “above all to lead a life of unceasing prayer in silence and solitude,” according to their official website. 

There’s more to the Carmen Complex than the church — including mummies!

El Carmen Complex

We weren’t able to wander the entire grounds, which includes a former convent and monastery that’s now a museum (complete with mummies!). 

The property extended quite far, and the scenic orchards are part of what attracted the aristocracy to make the neighborhood its home — giving birth to the colonia of San Ángel. 

The complex was taken over by the government after the War of Reform, which was fought between the Liberals and Conservatives from 1857 and 1860. The lefties won and subsequently greatly diminished the power of the Catholic Church, stripping it of most of its property. The local school was shut down and was used by the town council. Parts of the Carmelite grounds became a prison and barracks. 

The church, also known as the Templo del Carmen de San Ángel, is in the Colonial Baroque style — somehow austere in parts, such as the façade, and yet over-the-top ornate in others (that altarpiece!). 

The Baroque movement was all about drama — rounded edges and shimmering gold create a dizzying effect.

We spent some time exploring the church and all of its offshoot chapels, trying to be respectful of those praying within. Heavens knows we’ll be back to admire those beautiful domes — and to see the creepy mummies, of course. –Wally

Nuestra Señora del Carmen (Templo del Carmen de San Ángel)

Avenida Revolución s/n
San Ángel
Álvaro Obregón
01000 Ciudad de México
CDMX
México

 

8 Reasons to Visit Marsa Alam, the Hot, New Egypt Beach Destination

Much more laidback than Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh, Marsa Alam offers pristine sea life for scuba divers and snorkelers, European-style service, desert excursions and nearby Wadi El Gemal National Park. And, of course, there are the dugong sea cows.

Not too long ago, Marsa Alam, Egypt was known only as a hidden gem for divers. The secret’s getting out — and the area is rapidly developing as a more laidback alternative to the northern Red Sea beach party destinations.

Home to one of the oldest ancient civilizations in the world, Egypt is a mysterious and fascinating travel destination that should be on your radar. However, the pyramids, temples and tombs are only the beginning — it's also a beach destination bordering both the Mediterranean and Red Seas. Located on the western shore of the Red Sea, the town of Marsa Alam offers a less-crowded alternative to Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada.  

Not long ago, Marsa Alam was a small fishing village whose only tourists were avid in-the-know scuba divers. In recent years, though, it has grown into a promising European-style resort destination. Almost directly east of Edfu on the Red Sea, it’s farther south than most other beach towns in Egypt. 

There’s a small international airport that services Marsa Alam, though it’s actually an hour or so north, in Port Ghalib. Whether you’re looking to relax and enjoy pristine sand beaches, high-quality luxury accommodations, desert trekking, or exploring the abundant sea life, there’s something for everyone here. 

Another gorgeous sunrise at Marsa Alam — which you’ll be up to see since you weren’t partying till the wee hours at the club

8 Reasons Why Marsa Alam Is Becoming a Hot Travel Destination

More and more tourists are skipping Cairo and heading to the beach resorts of Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh. However, Marsa Alam is one of the newest destinations and is quickly rising in popularity. Here’s why you should consider this up-and-coming hotspot in Egypt. 

This part of the Red Sea isn’t yet crowded or polluted — and the aquatic life is stunning.

1.   An untouched underwater world

Thanks in large part to its remote location, the underwater world of Marsa Alam is more wild and currently less affected by tourism — a real paradise for divers and snorkelers.

Who doesn’t love dugongs, this area’s version of the manatee?

Schools of exotic fish, vibrant coral reefs, sea turtles, dolphins and dugong sea cows can all be found in this part of the Red Sea. And if you’re not a fan of snorkeling or diving, there’s always the option of booking a glass-bottom boat excursion to enjoy the wonders of this enchanting underwater world.

First and foremost, Marsa Alam is a beach destination, where you can relax on the sand, swim, snorkel and scuba dive.

2.   Gorgeous beaches

The beach stretches for over 30 miles (50 kilometers). Almost every hotel has its white sand beach — a great place to admire the sunrise. 

And because Marsa Alam isn’t as crowded as Hurghada or Sharm el-Sheikh, it’s a good option for families with children. There’s a calmness to this region for those who want the opportunity to be alone with nature.

The Lazuli Hotel in Marsa Alam is just one of many luxury resorts popping up in the area.

3.   High-quality service

Tourists here mainly hail from Germany, Poland, Austria and the Czech Republic, giving Marsa Alam a European feel. In fact, unlike other resort destinations in Egypt, prices are in euros. And for those of you who have experienced bad service elsewhere in Egypt, you shouldn’t find it in Marsa Alam. 

It is also worth noting that, unlike other beach hotspots, vendors and travel services representatives aren’t as pushy here. 

Even the winter isn’t too cold in Marsa Alam, and most beaches are protected from the infamous Egyptian winds.

4.   Good weather

Because Marsa Alam is farther south than other beach resorts, the enviable climate is warmer, especially in winter, when the temperature averagess between 60 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit — making it a comfortable holiday destination all year round. Also, most hotels have bays that are protected from the infamously strong Egyptian winds. 

Explore the ancient Roman ruins at Wadi El Gemal National Park.

5.   Excursions and activities

Marsa Alam is a place where you can swim for hours, ride an ATV in the desert next to the sea, and visit nature reserves and national parks. 

Wadi El Gemal National Park (Valley of the Camels) is a must-do day trip just 28 miles (45 kilometers) to the south of Marsa Alam. It’s the third largest park in the East Arabian Desert, consisting of 1,840 square miles of land and 810 square miles of marine life. Here you have the opportunity to observe rare birds and animals as well as wander among the ruins of temples and other buildings that date back to Ancient Rome!  This area was known as the Emerald Mountains and supplied the empire with green beryl gemstones.  

Take a day trip to marvel at the natural sculptures in White Desert National Park.

6.   Awesome deserts

If you want a break from the beach, then a trip to the Sahara el Beyda is a great option, with its stunning scale and boundless space. The surreal chalk-white landscape, punctuated by natural sculpture shaped by the harsh desert winds, is now a protectorate known as White Desert National Park. 

Who says Marsa Alam has to be relaxing all the time? Hop on an ATV and go for a ride in the dunes of the nearby desert.

To me, the desert represents freedom. Don’t worry about it getting too hot — it’s particularly pleasant even in the spring. Go for a ride on a quad bike or jeep, ending with a trip to the closed nature reserve beach to look for giant shells and pieces of coral. The sand here rivals that of the Maldives in its whiteness.

The Iberotel Costa Mares is but one of several five-star hotels in the Marsa Alam area.

7.   New world-class hotels and resorts 

So many four- and five-star hotels to choose from! They stretch along the coast in either direction from Marsala Alam. Yes, they are right on the beach — but, at the same time, there is a lot of greenery here. The staff will set you up with sports, wellness treatments and other activities. 

8.   Tourist infrastructure

Pharmacies, shops, bars and restaurants are popping up all over town. You can also head to neighboring Port Ghalib, about an hour away, to eat at one of the restaurants there.

Marsa Alam, where the desert meets the Red Sea

Oh-So-Chill Marsala Alam 

Compared to other popular resorts in Egypt, Marsa Alam is much more relaxed. This is an opportunity to experience amazing beaches and sea life away from noisy tourists and discos. But, like many other on-the-rise destinations, it might not be long before Marsa Alam becomes overcrowded. I recommend going sooner than later. –Isabelle Jordan

 

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Also in the area

Edfu is a little over three hours away, directly west.

The Temple of Horus at Edfu

Kom Ombo Temple and the Crocodile Museum

Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel Aswan

Abu Simbel

Death Cults of Ancient Mexico

The post-death rituals of the pre-Hispanic peoples of Mexico involved human sacrifices, dog sacrifices — lots of sacrifices.

The pre-Hispanic people of Mexico often left a token in a corpse’s mouth to help the spirit on its journey through the underworld.

Our current death rituals are typically one of two extremes: We either pump a corpse full of chemicals in an effort to preserve it — or we burn it to a crisp. 

The pre-Hispanic peoples of Mexico went to their own extremes when it came to the cult of death, often involving sacrifice of some sort. 

Known as the Lady of the Dead, Mictecacihuatl was the Aztec goddess of death, who ruled the underworld.

Here are some interesting facts about their death rites, which we learned while exploring the amazing Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City — currently my favorite museum in the world. 

A xoloitzcuintli Mexican hairless dog was sacrificed when someone died in the belief that it would serve as a spirit guide.

The death rites of pre-Hispanic peoples involved an elaborate spiritual journey that began with the killing of a dog.

When someone died in pre-Hispanic Mexico, a 40-day death ritual kicked off with the sacrifice of a xoloitzcuintli dog. The corpse was dressed in fine clothes, if their family could afford it. Otherwise, simple mats would do. A jade bead (or blue-painted pebble) was placed in the body’s mouth.

The person’s soul began a journey through the darkness of the nine planes beneath the earth. The skin was shed and dangers faced, including savage beasts that could only be appeased by being given the bead or pebble, which represented the person’s heart. 

As the spirit traversed this sinister landscape, family members would help them on their way by abstaining from sex and certain foods.

Eventually, the soul reached the Chignahuapan, the river at the border of the ninth plane. Waiting patiently, and probably wagging its tail, was the little doggie, who would lead the way across the water, into Mictlan, the dark and cold place of no return. 

A reconstruction of the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent at the Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City. The original was the site of mass human sacrifices.

Excavations at a major temple in Teotihuacán revealed human sacrifices.

In Teotihuacán, within the confines of its religious and political centerpiece, the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent (Pirámide de la Serpiente Enplumada), evidence of mass human sacrifice has been unearthed. Built from 150 to 200 BCE, the temple houses the remains of numerous sacrificial victims dressed as warriors. The symmetrical pattern of the bodies reveals that they were connected to the culture’s cosmology and calendar.

This disc from the Temple of the Sun in Teotihuacán represents the death of the sun.

It was an honor to be sacrificed to the god of war and darkness.

Tezcatlipoca (“the Obsidian Mirror”) helped create the universe and, as the Mexica god of war and darkness, held dominion over those activities that often took place at night, including theft and adultery. Not surprisingly, the color black was associated with him. Tezcatlipoca was also the god of masculinity and procreation. 

Every year, an unmarried man under the age of 20 was chosen to represent him as a living god. He was dressed up like the deity and lived large — until, that is, the fifth month of the year, when he was sacrificed.

Coatilcue, the goddess of the earth, had a head made of two serpents and liked to wear a necklace of severed human hands and hearts.

People were shot to death with arrows in a fertility rite.

Ancient peoples did many unusual things to ensure the fertility of their crops, and the residents of Mexico were no different. Tlazolteotl, the Aztec goddess of purification, lust and vice, liked people to be shot full of arrows in the fields. The sacrificial person’s blood fell to the earth to ensure fertilization and to thank the goddess for her bounty. –Wally

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