The Quirky Charms of the L’Isle sur la Sorgue Sunday Market

Part flea market, part farmers market, stalls line the river that encircles this town in Provence known for antiques. 

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is entirely surrounded by a canal, like a watery hug.

We learned about L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue from ma mère. She’s always been good at research and finding fun excursions as well as amazing places to stay on vacation. I still recall that she and her fellow librarians in Annapolis were among the first ones to realize the potential of what was then an upstart search engine named Google. 

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

Dave and Shirley wait for Wally and Duke to stop goofing off inside an antique store.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

A toast to a wonderful little Provençal town! Wally and Duke get fancy with their cafés crèmes.

While we were staying in Aix-en-Provence (those Provençals sure love their hyphens), the Shirl, as we affectionately refer to my mom — sometimes even to her face! — informed us of the Sunday market in a nearby medieval town named L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. Most of the small towns in Provence have their charms, but what makes this one so downright adorable is the fact that it’s encircled by a river — hence its name, which references an island on the River Sorgue. The Sunday market stretches along the water’s edge halfway around the town.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Pretty much everywhere you look in Provence is stinkin’ cute, like this small square.

Round and Round in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

We got up early on Sunday morning to catch a train to L’Isle. (I’m not sure if that’s what locals call it, but L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is just too much of a mouthful to say every time. For the record, the town is pronounced, “Leel sur la Sorg.”)

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

There were once many watermills in town — now all that remain are the algae-covered wheels.

Bridges crisscross the canals, and now and then you’ll pass large wooden wheels in the water, covered with beards of green algae. They’re now fenced off and just there for show, the mills they were once connected to long gone. Et bien sûr, with the canal surrounding the town, it has earned the predictable nickname “the Venice of Provence.” We were there back in 2017, but more recent photos reveal that they’ve run with this, and the river is now filled with gondolas. I’m not sure how I feel about that. Aw, heck, who am I kidding? Duke and I would have totally caught a ride in one.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Wally had a delightful day exploring the L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue Sunday Market.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

Duke takes a break on one of the back porches that line the River Sorgue.

About 300 stalls are said to set up each Sunday, selling everything from secondhand goods to saucisson. 

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

We didn’t purchase any bull sausage.

Right as we entered the town, we passed a table with various representations of the Provençal mascot, the cicada. (Learn why this lovely part of France chose a bug as its symbol.) We admired an iron trivet shaped like a cicada. Not sure we wanted to lug it around all day, we uttered that famous phrase of many a traveler: “We’ll get it on the way back.” 

But then I remembered having been burned before: You never know where the day will take you, or if the vendor will sell out or pack it up early. So I forked over the requisite francs (actually, by this time it was probably euros, but that doesn’t have as nice a ring to it). The trivet still sits in the windowsill above our kitchen sink. 

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The charming vendor who had the Shirl blushing

The Shirl’s Suitor

One section of the market opens up into a square filled with various stands selling food items. A diminutive man, who wasn’t even as tall as my 5’2” mother, with a prominent nose and a beaming smile, called out to us as we passed by. He zeroed in on the Shirl, and started flirting with her something fierce. He shamelessly ogled her, showering her with compliments, wrapping his arm around her back, unphased by the presence of my father. He was so full of energy and was so amusingly slick, we all just laughed at his antics. 

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

Tasty Mediterranean spreads

The samples and the flirting are free!

The samples and the flirting are free!

He was selling various tapenades and other spreads, and offered to have us try some free samples before realizing he had run out of bread. 

So he told us, “Un moment,“ and darted off to a nearby stall, where he snatched a baguette. It looked like he stole it, which cracked us up — though I’m sure he has an agreement with nearby vendors. 

He sliced the bread up, slathered on some of his colorful spreads and batted his eyes at the “belle madame.” He was so utterly charming and over the top, we felt obliged to purchase quite a few jars of his wares. 

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

One of many charming vistas in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

At one point, the Shirl stopped to admire a scarf. It was blue, of course. We joke that my mom likes lots of colors: blue and white and…blue. 

She put the scarf down and moved on through the crowd. We waited till she was out of sight, and then Duke snatched the scarf and bought it for her as a Christmas present. He’s sneaky that way.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Vintage toys line the back wall of one shop.

Gone Antiquing

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also known for its antique shops. The town’s reputation as an antiquing hub draws crowds from all over Europe, and prices tend to be high. Peter Mayle, he of A Year in Provence fame, famously groused, “The only thing you can’t get in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a bargain.”

Despite being steeped in the fancy heirlooms of the past, L’Isle has a playfulness to it. Most of the stores don’t take themselves too seriously. You’ll find a statue of a giraffe statue peeking its head up amongst birdcages or a smiling clown looking to have his finger pulled. 

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

No antique snobs here! The town has a whimsical feel.

Wally clowns around.

Wally clowns around.

We hit a bunch of shops after wandering through the market. One was situated right on the river’s edge. It seemed to balance precariously over the water, like the slightest push would cause it to totter into the Sorgue. We peered out the back door and chuckled over an amusing vignette: In the middle of the river, two chairs sat partially submerged at a table.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

That’s one way to cool off and take a break.

Inside the two-level store chock-a-block with antique bric-a-brac, we rummaged through a bin of hand-painted numbered tiles until we found two 5s, which we passed off to my parents, who purchased them to use as their house number. 

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

I mean, how cute is this glass? Wouldn’t you steal it, too?

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

Many of the buildings in L’Isle are painted bright colors like this sunshine-yellow bistro.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The wait was too long at this restaurant, so we headed to another establishment, where we had delicious salads for lunch.

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

The L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue train station, which meant that another fun excursion had come to an end

We grabbed lunch at a café and sat on a small balcony over the river. The glass my beer came in was so cute, complete with a cicada, it somehow found its way in my bag. Karma ended up catching up with me, though. Because we hadn’t been back in our vacation rental for five minutes before the bag bumped into a wrought iron gazebo-like structure by the kitchen, and I heard the glass shatter. C’est la vie! –Wally

 

Indian Handicrafts Meet Modern Design: A Q&A With Harpreet Padam

Traditional techniques inform modern consumer products — all within the framework of the Indian aesthetic. 

Harpreet Padam of Unlike Design Co. explains a detail to some of the artisans he collaborates with.

Harpreet Padam of Unlike Design Co. explains a detail to some of the artisans he collaborates with.

Scrolling through Instagram (one of my favorite hobbies), I was instantly impressed by the well-curated feed of Harpreet Padam (@generalaesthetic). It features images of places and objects found or designed by him. 

Recently, I saw a post featuring an article Harpreet wrote for Big Little Things, a magazine that celebrates thoughtful design and living. In the article, Harpreet describes his lifelong love for traditional Indian handicrafts and his collection of childhood objects filled with special memories and their influence on his designs. 

“A better, exclusive understanding of Indian-ness is something I really strive for through my work.”
— Harpreet Padam, co-founder, Unlike Design Co.

Harpreet is the co-founder of Unlike Design Co., and his creations include the Petal series of tea scoops that have an organic feel to them and were developed in collaboration with woodworkers from Udayagiri, Andhra Pradesh, India. His Bidriware is produced by craftspeople in Bidar, Karnataka. And I’m particularly partial to the miniature houses inspired by the vernacular architecture of Srinagar, Kashmir. 

We were thrilled to connect with Harpreet, who shared a bit about his influences, design background, favorite objects and the enduring legacy of artisans. –Duke

 

Tell us about your design background.

Honestly, the impulse to study design came about for me by a poster I found in an apartment that the previous tenant, a furniture designer, had left behind. It was a neat collage of industrial design works by the French architect and designer Marc Held. I still have the poster and keep in touch with Marc every now and then. 

I went on to study at the then very respected accessory design department of the National Institute of Fashion Technology in New Delhi. 

After graduating, I worked for six years as a designer, then design head at a fashion accessory firm in Bangalore. It was a wonderful team, and I got the opportunity to design jewelry, home products, store windows, brochures and even a store interior. 

 Eventually, I was drawn to packaging and graphic design for Indian fashion brands. My partner, Lavanya, and I established our studio Unlike Design Co. — first in Bangalore, and now in New Delhi. We do a mix of projects, ranging from home accessories, craft-based objects, graphics and packaging. Both of us also teach at various design schools across India. 

Harpreet looks to traditional Indian culture to create a new, non-Westernized take on contemporary design.

Harpreet looks to traditional Indian culture to create a new, non-Westernized take on contemporary design.

How would you describe your design philosophy?

I look at design as very closely related to business and culture. The experience and understanding of the client as well as the softer nuances within the lives of the user influence my thinking greatly. 

A better, exclusive understanding of Indian-ness is something I really strive for through my work. 

I am also always thinking about how the words “modern” and “contemporary” apply to India and our people. The way designers like myself have been trained and the early influences we have developed as a result of that, our understanding of these words has been shaped largely from a Western viewpoint. My mind struggles to think afresh as an Indian living and working amongst the Indian masses — I think this struggle forms an important part of my design philosophy.

 

What are some of your favorite objects that you’ve picked up on your travels? Why are these important to you?

 I really like this set of wire puzzles we picked up on the Ganges riverside in Varanasi. The man who sold them used to make them himself. The puzzles range from simple to sheer mind-benders. On subsequent visits, I couldn’t find the man again, and the pieces I had bought earlier became more special.

Harpreet picks up keepsakes on his travels, like these wire puzzles bought along the Ganges in Varanasi.

Harpreet picks up keepsakes on his travels, like these wire puzzles bought along the Ganges in Varanasi.

Then there is this block of wood which I found in a wood turner’s workshop in Kashmir. It’s some sort of a shaping tool, though the artisan was using it as a seat. According to the family, it is very old and made of a rare hardwood exclusive to Kashmir — I forget the name now. I think I enjoyed its multipurpose perception and its naturally aged look. 

Hapreet found this shaped wood block at a workshop in Kashmir.

Hapreet found this shaped wood block at a workshop in Kashmir.

There are so many more things, found by the roadside, in hardware stores, in people’s homes, rejects during workshops. Lavanya and I collect a lot of such things, get really attached to them, and end up filling cupboards and boxes to the brim.

Artisan Khatoon Bi uses her hands as well as her feet to carve a Petal teaspoon for the Udayagiri wooden cutlery collection.

Artisan Khatoon Bi uses her hands as well as her feet to carve a Petal teaspoon for the Udayagiri wooden cutlery collection.

Who are some of the artisans you work with?

At the moment, I am working with embroiderers, woodcarvers and papier-mâché makers in Kashmir. I also work with a family of Bidriware makers and a community of women cutlery carvers in South India.

A Kashmiri woodcarver’s workshop

A Kashmiri woodcarver’s workshop

What appeals to you about traditional handicrafts?

I enjoy the struggle of aiming to create a kind of new relevance. In the past, a lot of traditional handicrafts were seamlessly integrated into the lives of their users — through intelligent combinations of their function, appearance, significance. Artisans nowadays are a bit detached from a firsthand understanding of consumer lifestyles — sometimes even within their local environments. 

I like the attempt of acting to bridge this understanding — just nudging and guiding a bit. It’s magic to witness an artisan thinking for him- or herself about a new product. And they do it more intuitively than designers. It’s also design, I guess, helping someone with the confidence to think for themselves.

Master craftsman Abdul Rauf works with Harpreet on the Bidriware product line.

Master craftsman Abdul Rauf works with Harpreet on the Bidriware product line.

Another important thing for me is changing perceptions about traditional handicrafts, especially for young design students, who find the whole subject boring and stuffy. I think I’m able to achieve this to some extent when I teach my craft-based design course at the National Institute of Fashion Technology. 

Prototypes for Unlike’s Srinagar Houses

Prototypes for Unlike’s Srinagar Houses

How have you given traditional handicrafts a modern twist, as in your Srinagar Houses miniatures?

I didn’t have to do much more than spot significant details of old Srinagar houses that stood out for me. And this happens naturally when you visit Kashmir — the older architecture stands in sharp contrast to the more universal style of building prevalent now. 

So I simply made small models of what I saw, and the artisans improved upon it with their own thoughts. Though we did attempt to paint details of windows and brickwork onto the houses, eventually we left them gray. 

The minimalism of the Srinagar Houses lends them a modern feel.

The minimalism of the Srinagar Houses lends them a modern feel.

I was inspired to do this by a conversation with one of the traditional artists, who was joking when he said it’s better not to paint windows and doors since the Kashmiri people are almost always under curfew and house arrest. I think that stark grayness, coupled with strong architectural features, gives them a modern feel.

Architecture like this in Bidar helped inspired Unlike’s Bidriware.

Architecture like this in Bidar helped inspired Unlike’s Bidriware.

What have been your biggest influences as an artist?

Most of all, I think it’s the opportunity of traveling and meeting varied places and people. And then I think it’s also an equilibrium of mish-mash from films, magazines, books, writings and work of designers, artists, filmmakers and the like. 

I spent my late school years studying in and around Corbusier’s Chandigarh and that did affect my view on architecture and design, in a deep way that’s hard to describe. 

I also really admire the writings of the late Italian designer Ettore Sottsass and the work of Vico Magistretti, his fellow designer of the time. 

And then Indian cinema of the 1980s and early ’90s — such films as Ek Doctor Ki Maut by Tapan Sinha, Aakrosh and Ardh Satya by Govind Nihalani, Mathilukal by Adoor Gopalakrishnan and Sadma by Balu Mahendra. I wish my work could imbibe that level of starkness in thought, the honesty and courage to address issues head on — even in commercial products and the way they are made.    

Traditional techniques are used to create the Convention vases in Unlike’s Bidriware line.

Traditional techniques are used to create the Convention vases in Unlike’s Bidriware line.

Explain some of your favorite traditional techniques, and how you’ve applied them to your work, as in your Bidriware series.

In Bidriware, I think I’m still learning more about the possibility of techniques. In my last extended interaction, I enjoyed learning about the hollow-core casting technique. Unlike many Bidriware objects, this technique does not weld two symmetrical halves to create a hollow object, which is a simple but crude way to do it. The method employs sand casting to achieve a completely hollow form, without visible joints. 

Moreover, the artisan I have been working with is extremely skilled at creating hollow molds out of solid forms — it is magic watching him employ decades of skill and dexterity in the few moments it takes to achieve this. 

I used both these specialities of the artisan for a series of flower vases called Convention.

Share something that you think would only happen in India.

Oh, our roads. The astonishing synchronicity of traffic, animals and people moving in any and all directions of their choosing. I’m not sure any other country can match that.

Overnight in the Sahara Desert

No trip to Morocco is complete without a camel ride to a Berber camp at Erg Chigaga. 

The tents are spacious and have carpets lining the walls to keep the warmth in.

The tents are spacious and have carpets lining the walls to keep the warmth in.

There are some adventures that offer a one-of-a-kind experience that simply can’t be passed over. For Wally and me, an overnight at a Berber camp in the middle of the Sahara Desert fell into this category.

Besides, the road trip from Marrakech takes you to some amazing stopovers, including Atlas Studios and Aït Benhaddou. 

“The camel was wide-eyed with fear or fury, rearing its head and making terrible Chewbacca-like warbles. 

“Nous avons peur!” Wally exclaimed, which translates to “We are scared!””
Look how happy being in the beautiful and vast Sahara made Duke, Wally and Vanessa!

Look how happy being in the beautiful and vast Sahara made Duke, Wally and Vanessa!

On the Road Again

After spending the night in Ouarzazate, Wally, Vanessa and I set out with our driver, Barak, to Erg Chigaga. Prior to our trip, we had debated at length whether to set off for the desert from Erg Chebbi or Erg Chigaga, and settled upon the latter — perhaps just because it sounded a bit like Chicago.

The landscape beyond Ouarzazate is covered with scrub and jagged rocks. Hillsides are mostly barren, covered with loose-looking boulders and thorny bushes. The rock color shifts from mountain to mountain — red ochre at first, then a sulfurous basalt green and finally a deep coal black. The large angular red rocks of the Anti-Atlas range jut out in a staccato formation like massive fallen Jenga blocks littering the mountainsides.

Unfortunately, even remote places like the Sahara aren’t immune to pollution. Disposable plastic bags of blue, faded rose, green, pale lavender and yellow littered the landscape like deflated balloons.

The Sahara isn’t an immediate vast expanse of sand — the first hour or so of our camel ride was over semi-rocky terrain with green outcroppings here and there.

The Sahara isn’t an immediate vast expanse of sand — the first hour or so of our camel ride was over semi-rocky terrain with green outcroppings here and there.

Draa Valley: It’s a Date

We passed through Zagora, the last major town, 60 miles outside of the small rural outpost of M’hamid El Ghizlane, our departure point for our desert adventure. 

Zagora is located in the fertile Draa River Valley and was originally known as Tazagourt, the singular of the plural Tizigirt, Berber for Twin Peaks, referring to the mountains that flank the village. A sea of lush green date palms lined the road, seeming to stretch endlessly. Since they happened to be in season, they were heavy with ripening fruit. Dates are a big agricultural business in Zagora and are sold roadside, in local shops and in the markets of Marrakech. I regret that we didn’t stop and try some.

We purchased bottles of water at a small shop while a little boy with a Spider-Man backpack watched us curiously from an alley across the street.

Upon arrival in M’hamid, we were a bit shocked when we pulled into a dusty parking lot that was literally across the street from the desert. The three of us decided to use the restroom before heading out. It was the foulest bathroom I’ve ever been in, and the stench haunts me to this day. 

Camels aren’t the most pleasant creature to ride upon.

Camels aren’t the most pleasant creature to ride upon.

Zou Zou le Fou Fou: The Camel From Hell

Something wasn’t right. As we were queuing up to be paired with the camels we would be riding out to the encampment in the middle of the Sahara, one was noticeably smaller than the others. Crouching on all fours, the camel’s front right leg was folded up and bound with what looked like an Ace bandage. The animal was wide-eyed with fear or fury, rearing its head and making terrible Chewbacca-like warbles. 

Barak presented the camels with a flourish. We all took a step backward simultaneously, staring at him, wide-eyed. Wally, who can speak French, asked if there was another camel we could ride instead of the bucking bronco. Barak asked the handlers, then shook his head no.

“Nous avons peur!” Wally exclaimed, which translates to “We are scared!”

Barak could see the terror in our eyes but tried to assure us that Zou Zou, for that was the camel’s name, would be perfectly safe. He explained that she was young and her leg was tied up like that because that’s how they train camels to kneel for passengers to climb on top of them.

Wally muttered that the camel’s name should instead be Fou Fou, a play upon the French word for “crazy.” 

After we all stood there, staring in horror at the thrashing, spitting Zou Zou, Vanessa bravely volunteered to ride her. We thanked her profusely, and she shrugged and said she figured she was the lightest.

Camels spit and eat shit, and riding them is a bit like being on a slow-mo mechanical bull.

Camels spit and eat shit, and riding them is a bit like being on a slow-mo mechanical bull.

Wally rode Mujeres, an ironically named male camel (it’s the word for “women” in Spanish). Mujeres enjoyed stopping to eat Zou Zou’s dung nuggets en route to the camp, which was funny, disgusting and annoying all at once. My camel’s name was Mimoun. He was mostly well behaved, aside from periodically making a series of unpleasant gurgles.

All aboard the camel train! We caravan out to the middle of the Sahara.

All aboard the camel train! We caravan out to the middle of the Sahara.

Camel Ride 

The camels were tethered together and led by a guide on foot. We had an hour-and-a-half camel ride out to our encampment. There’s a saddle of sorts, covered with a doormat-sized rug and a pair of handles not unlike those found on a bicycle. 

Guidebooks tend to gloss over the fact that a camel’s awkward gait makes for a bumpy ride. It’s basically like riding a mechanical bull.

Our guide whipped out his cell phone and chatted away, which took us out of the moment. “Who knew they’d get better reception in the middle of the desert than in some parts of Chicago?” Wally quipped.

Vanessa takes a selfie while camelback.

Vanessa takes a selfie while camelback.

Guidebooks also neglect to mention that the desert isn’t all drifting dunes. We expected the desert to start with a dramatic line of sand like you’d see in a cartoon. But the first leg of our journey into the Sahara was rocky and punctuated by gnarled outcrops of mastic and cypress trees. 

It wasn’t until we got closer to camp that the foliage disappeared, the sand turned an intense orange, and the ergs, or sand dunes, emerged. 

Duke explores our Berber encampment.

Duke explores our Berber encampment.

Berber Camp

The camp consisted of several tents whose interiors were covered with blankets. Upon arrival, we were served what locals love to call “Berber whiskey” but is disappointedly mint tea, a sign of hospitality. It was all a bit surreal being surrounded by nothing but dunes and knowing that we were halfway to the border of Algeria, which was undergoing some political unrest at the time. 

Wally got up early to climb a dune for a moment of zen.

Wally got up early to climb a dune for a moment of zen.

There was a tent for eating and separate tents for sleeping. Our desert companions included a large group of Dutch travelers. They tittered as they asked our guides if they had a magic carpet, could charm snakes or summon genies. (Wally and I, by contrast, know that jinn are no laughing matter. In fact, we blamed them for our camera having malfunctioned, causing us to lose most of our photos of the trip. Once again, shoutout to Vanessa for sharing some of her photos with us.)

Vanessa and Wally hanging out at camp. There’s not a lot to do except admire the view — and experience traditional Berber music around a bonfire at night.

Vanessa and Wally hanging out at camp. There’s not a lot to do except admire the view — and experience traditional Berber music around a bonfire at night.

We arrived at camp just as the sun was setting. The sky changed from pink to amber to a deep blue before darkening to an intense black as soon as the sun dipped beneath the horizon. I let my mind wander and hummed a few bars of “Tea in the Sahara,” a song by the British band the Police, inspired by Paul Bowles’ bleak novel The Sheltering Sky. 

Vanessa in our tent

Vanessa in our tent

Duke and Wally lounge in the tent, glad they didn’t have to share it with any of the boisterous Dutch travelers.

Duke and Wally lounge in the tent, glad they didn’t have to share it with any of the boisterous Dutch travelers.

The stars were absolutely incredible and the three of us laid down on the sand outside of our tent to look up at the night sky, feeling utterly small and at peace. After a while, we joined the group and sat around a bonfire, listening to our hosts intensely play drums and sing ritual Berber music. 

The sand in the Sahara blazes a bright orange.

The sand in the Sahara blazes a bright orange.

You’ve probably heard that while deserts can be scorching hot during the day, they get to be surprisingly cold at night. We awoke the next morning and put on our sweaters and scarves. Much to Wally’s relief, no scorpions had crawled into his boots.

Wally and Duke were glad they took a couple of days to travel to the Sahara.

Wally and Duke were glad they took a couple of days to travel to the Sahara.

The beauty of the sunrise was amazing — it’s not every day that you begin by leaving a tent to climb a sand dune in the Sahara Desert. The sunlight made the ochre grains of sand glow, and we sat there for a bit in a meditative state. It almost seemed disrespectful to break the silence with our voices.

As we rode our camels back to Erg Chigaga, we began to feel the effects of the previous day’s trek. As mentioned, camels are not comfortable rides. With their arched backs and their lurching around, shifting me almost comically sideways, I found myself tightly gripping with my legs. After our ride, all three of us had a piercing pain right in the taint, which Wally coined “camel crotch.”

Obligatory cameltoe pic

Obligatory cameltoe pic

We would have liked to spend more time in the desert, but we had to get on the road for the long journey back to Marrakech. The trip was about eight hours, returning through the treacherous turns of the Atlas Mountains. As we neared Marrakech, I noticed storm clouds on the horizon. –Duke

 

Road Trip! Marrakech to the Sahara

The death-defying hairpin turns in the Atlas Mountains are worth it. With stopovers at Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate, a big part of the fun is the journey to Erg Chigaga for an overnight in the Sahara Desert. 

A stray dog looks off at the Atlas range, surely thinking deep thoughts…like how no trip to Morocco is complete without a sojourn in the Sahara.

A stray dog looks off at the Atlas range, surely thinking deep thoughts…like how no trip to Morocco is complete without a sojourn in the Sahara.

There was one thing we knew we couldn’t miss out on while Wally and I planned our itinerary for Morocco with our friend Vanessa: a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity for a desert adventure. We decided upon a three-day and two-night Sahara excursion through Imzi Tours.

The familiar sound of the muezzin’s voice broadcast over the speakers of the nearby Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech woke me from my slumber at 5 a.m. When the alarm rang an hour later, I thought I’d half-imagined the call to prayer, asking Wally and Vanessa if they had heard it, too. 

“Nothing can quite prepare you for being a passenger in a car maneuvering the tight cliffside turns with low guardrails found throughout the Atlas range. ”

By the time we got dressed, it was only 6:30 in the morning, so the kitchen at our riad, Alwachma, hadn’t opened — which meant we were served an abundance of carb-laden fare that left the three of us longing for the cumin-dusted fried eggs we had enjoyed the day before. Our breakfast spread consisted of msemen, a traditional flatbread cooked in a frying pan. It reminded me of a chewy square-shaped pancake, but was described best by Wally as “crêpe jerky.” This was accompanied by another unleavened bread, matloua, the Moroccan version of an arepa, which was served with preserves, freshly squeezed orange juice and French press coffee. 

We had to get an early start for our desert excursion because Marrakech is roughly 225 miles from Zagora and the dunes of Erg Chigaga, though we had an overnight at Ouarzazate. At 8 a.m., the three of us met our guide and driver at the end of Derb Bab Doukkala, the cobblestone alley outside our riad.

His name was Mubarak, but he went by Barak. After asking our names, he promptly gave us Berber names: Vanessa was Fatima, Wally was Mustafa, and I was Ali. Vanessa whispered a theory that I was inclined to believe. She said Barak gave us Berber names so he didn’t have to remember our real ones. But what the heck, it’s all in fun, right? 

Moustafa, Ali and Fatima…err, Wally, Duke and Vanessa stretch their legs and admire the view on a road trip through the Atlas Mountains in Morocco.

Moustafa, Ali and Fatima…err, Wally, Duke and Vanessa stretch their legs and admire the view on a road trip through the Atlas Mountains in Morocco.

It’s a long ride to M’hamid, the launching point for the camel ride to the desert camp, but Barak assured us that there’d be plenty of stops along the way. Our first day would take us to an argan oil cooperative, Aït Benhaddou and Ouarzazate, where we would be spending the night. 

Our driver Barak, posing with our friend, Vanessa. He was a fiercely proud Berber and expounded about his people at length.

Our driver Barak, posing with our friend, Vanessa. He was a fiercely proud Berber and expounded about his people at length.

The Free People: A Lesson About Berbers

As we sped along National Route 9, Barak explained that there are several different types of Berber tribes, the semi-nomadic people who inhabit the Sahara. Two of the largest populations are found in Algeria and Morocco. Their livelihood revolves around traveling with their livestock as the seasons change.

The name Berber was ascribed to the oldest known inhabitants of the Barbary Coast of North Africa. The term stemmed from the Greek bárbaros, used to refer to any foreigner, and which is the root of the derogatory term barbarian. It’s understandable that Berbers prefer to call themselves Imazighen, which means “Free People” in the indigenous Tamazight language.

Berber on a motorbike: A man whizzes by in traditional Berber garb.

Berber on a motorbike: A man whizzes by in traditional Berber garb.

The southern Atlas and Anti-Atlas Mountains are home to the Shilha, the largest Berber tribe in the country and often viewed as having the “purest” dialect: Tashlheit, the most commonly spoken in Morocco.

Riffan or Rif Berbers speak a dialect called Tarafit. The smallest Berber population in the country, this group stays within the bounds of the Rif Mountains.

In the Middle Atlas are the Zayanes, who spread from Fès in the north to Marrakech in the south. Their dialect, Tamazight, varies wildly from region to region but is usually intelligible by native speakers. Some Zayanes, particularly those near Ouarzazate in the south, are still nomads. 

It’s astonishing how much work goes into extracting oil from the argan nut.

It’s astonishing how much work goes into extracting oil from the argan nut.

Argan Oil Women’s Collective: A Tough Nut to Crack 

As we entered the High Atlas Mountains, the undulating surface of the surrounding landscape resembled gray-green fleshy folds of walrus skin peppered with errant bursts of green scrub. In other parts, it was like driving through the Grand Canyon. A frequent roadside sight are the paddle-shaped limbs of the nopal cactus bearing prickly pear fruit in varying states of ripeness.

Argan trees are indigenous to the Atlas Mountains. They are thorny, drought-resistant trees that bear a hard yellow fruit. 

Argan trees are quite tenacious and can grow on rocky outcroppings. The oil from their fruit is used in cosmetics and cooking.

Argan trees are quite tenacious and can grow on rocky outcroppings. The oil from their fruit is used in cosmetics and cooking.

Our first stop was a roadside argan oil cooperative shop whose parking lot was littered with desiccated argan fruit husks. Inside, Berber women demonstrated the manual labor required to make this “Moroccan gold.”

Collectives like the one we visited help provide women with lucrative employment.

Collectives like the one we visited help provide women with lucrative employment.

One pair was seated and cleaved the inner nut with a sharp stone to extract the kernels. Another pair ground the roasted kernels between two slabs of rock into a paste that resembled natural peanut butter. A woman who served as a guide told us that two types of oil are produced — one is used in cosmetics while the other is used like olive oil in cooking. 

Because the extraction process is labor intensive (it takes between 25 to 30 kilograms of argan kernels to produce 1 liter of oil), the government has established a fund to help ensure the success of cooperatives like this. UNESCO has designated the 10,000-square-mile argan growing region as a biosphere reserve. This empowers the women who produce the oil, providing them with fair wages, an opportunity to improve the welfare of their families and safe working conditions.

The trio of adventurers reach the highest point in the Atlas range — and, indeed, in all of North Africa.

The trio of adventurers reach the highest point in the Atlas range — and, indeed, in all of North Africa.

Tizi n’Tichka: High Point of the Atlas Mountains

Whenever we stopped to take a photograph anywhere along Route 9, a local man or boy emerged from the rocks brandishing geodes split open for us to see the glittering crystalline structures inside, some artificially dyed a vibrant pink or blue. 

We passed dozens of beaten earth houses, many of which appeared to be uninhabited, although we learned from Barak that this wasn’t always the case.

The houses in the mountains are made of local materials and, as a result, are practically camouflaged.

The houses in the mountains are made of local materials and, as a result, are practically camouflaged.

Laundry is put out to dry in the sun on the rocks of the Atlas Mountains.

Laundry is put out to dry in the sun on the rocks of the Atlas Mountains.

Before making our descent into Ouarzazate, known as the Gateway to the Sahara, we reached the highest point of the Atlas Mountains. At an elevation of 7,410 feet (2.260 meters) above sea level, Tizi n’Tichka is the highest mountain pass in North Africa. We stopped for a moment to take in the incredible views and an obligatory photo, of course. 

We were sure we’d never make it through the mountains alive, as Barak sped past large trucks winding through the switchbacks of the Atlas.

We were sure we’d never make it through the mountains alive, as Barak sped past large trucks winding through the switchbacks of the Atlas.

Nothing can quite prepare you for being a passenger in a car with a driver maneuvering the tight cliffside turns with low guardrails found throughout the Atlas range. Since this route is shared by trucks and other large passenger vehicles, the three of us would lean to the opposite side every time Barak passed a vehicle on the narrow lanes, in hopes that this would help prevent our car from toppling over the edge. 

You definitely have to stop off at Aït Benhaddou en route to the Sahara.

You definitely have to stop off at Aït Benhaddou en route to the Sahara.

Hollywood in the Desert: Aït Benhaddou and Atlas Studios

One of the coolest stops en route to the Sahara was the fortified village of Aït Benhaddou. Barak told us that the oldest dwelling in what he called a kasbah was built in the 11th century, though UNESCO dates the oldest construction “to be no earlier than the 17th century.”

Wally thinks the ancient structures of Aït Benhaddou look like sandcastles.

Wally thinks the ancient structures of Aït Benhaddou look like sandcastles.

Regardless, the atmospheric desert dwellings have been so well preserved that it has captured the imagination of Hollywood. Several productions have been shot here including, The Sheltering Sky and The Mummy. In fact, a large artificial entrance had been constructed for the Daenerys storyline in Game of Thrones — but unfortunately, they weren’t going to start filming for another month or so, much to Wally’s dismay.

Many movies set in Ancient Egypt have been filmed at Atlas Studios in Ouarzazate.

Many movies set in Ancient Egypt have been filmed at Atlas Studios in Ouarzazate.

Speaking of Hollywood, the next stop was Atlas Studios in the town of Ouarzazate, where numerous desert-themed movies have been filmed. For some reason, our guide was enthralled with Steven Segal. The group we toured with was predominantly French, with a small group of English-speaking Brazilians. 

Most of the sets were made of fiberglass with back supports of bamboo scaffolding. I was intrigued by the false perspective and scale used in the spaces to trick the eye. 

Hopefully Les Jardins de Ouarzazate has been upgraded a bit since our visit.

Hopefully Les Jardins de Ouarzazate has been upgraded a bit since our visit.

Les Jardins de Ouarzazate Hotel: I Never Promised You a Rose Garden

Atlas Studios also boasts an exclusive 10-suite hotel aptly named the Oscar. Perhaps we should have stayed there instead of Les Jardins de Ouarzazate, which was included in our tour package.

At the time we visited, back in 2012, the hotel had clearly seen better days. A layer of dust and grime covered everything inside the expansive lobby and I half-expected to see Miss Havisham from Dickens’ Great Expectations descend the tiled stairs.

Our room, at the top of the stairs, had a foul smell, so we were upgraded to a private suite off to the side of an unkempt but beautifully wild rose garden and swimming pool. Both rooms were dark, and when we went to take showers the following morning, the water was cold.

An old man kept pacing around the pool. Vanessa thought he was lost; I thought he was a Peeping Tom; but Wally fabricated the most amusing story: The geezer was wandering around looking for Arab boys. “Is this where the Arab boys are?” Wally said, mimicking an old man’s voice, while I laughed. “I thought I saw one come back here.”

The highlight of our stay was our waiter. He was quite jovial, so we nicknamed him Giggles. He asked us if we were doctors because we were all wearing glasses. 

There was a little kitten that stayed next to me throughout dinner. It took all of my willpower not to toss it a scrap of food.

Breakfast was a buffet of fly-smothered, day-old croissants loosely covered with cloth napkins.

Mediocre hotel aside, the interesting stopovers make the journey to the Sahara as much fun as the overnight in the desert itself. –Duke

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The Beautiful Bahai Temple in Chicago

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What is Baha’i? What’s the history of the Baha’i Temple in Wilmette, Illinois?

The beauty of the Bahai’i Temple makes Wally jump for joy.

The beauty of the Bahai’i Temple makes Wally jump for joy.

Those of us who live in the Chicago area are familiar with the Baha’i Temple — though most know nothing about the religion itself. We’ve seen glimpses of the structure on the North Shore and have been drawn to it, where we discover that it’s a gorgeous building that makes for a pleasant visit to spend a short time wandering its gardens and admiring its intricate stonework. 

Which is exactly what we did one weekend with our friend Kate during the COVID-19 pandemic. We weren’t able to go inside the temple, but to be honest that’s not too big a disappointment. The interior isn’t all that impressive — a large, open space that’s unadorned, in stark contrast to the ornate exterior. OK, the interior of the dome is gorgeous. But that’s the extent of the beauty inside, I promise. 

“The Earth is but one country, and mankind its citizens.”
— Bahá’ulláh, founder of Bahá’í
An illuminated manuscript of Baha’u’llah’s writings that was presented to the British Museum in 1913

An illuminated manuscript of Baha’u’llah’s writings that was presented to the British Museum in 1913

What is the Bahá’í religion?

It’s a relatively new faith, having emerged in the Middle East in the 1840s. A Persian teacher known as Bahá’ulláh preached a religion founded on the principles of peace, equality and the unity of humankind. Sounds nice, doesn’t it? 

Bahá’ulláh, the founder of the Baha’i faith, might look stern — but he was really all about peace, love and understanding.

Bahá’ulláh, the founder of the Baha’i faith, might look stern — but he was really all about peace, love and understanding.

To Baha’is, the soul is eternal and should be illuminated by focusing on kindness, generosity, integrity, truthfulness, humility and selflessness. That’s exactly what this world needs more of, if you ask me.

At a Parliament of the World’s Religions meeting in Chicago in 1893, the United States was introduced to Baha’i. (By the way, it’s pronounced “Buh-high.”) Despite being proclaimed as one of the world’s fastest growing religions, it never caught on big time, and I’d wager that most Americans aren’t familiar with the faith. 

But by 1900, there were about 1,000 Baha’is living in the U.S. and Canada. Worldwide, the faith’s adherents now number around 5 million.

Duke and Wally spent a pleasant day with their friend Kate, circling (and admiring) the Baha’i Temple.

Duke and Wally spent a pleasant day with their friend Kate, circling (and admiring) the Baha’i Temple.

Do they have a prophet or savior like Mohammed or Jesus?

Like Muslims, the Baha’i believe that Mohammed, as well as Jesus (along with Abraham, Moses, Buddha, Krishna and Zoroaster, for that matter) was a prophet — just not God’s final prophet. Divine revelation, to them, is not final but ongoing; there will be other prophets in the future. Maybe the next one will be female.

The Baha’i faith sees all people as equal — a view that doesn’t fit with conservative Islam — and has led to persecution since its inception.

The Baha’i faith sees all people as equal — a view that doesn’t fit with conservative Islam — and has led to persecution since its inception.

How have Baha’i been treated over the years?

It’s sad that a religion that preaches acceptance has suffered so much oppression and violence. Perhaps it’s telling that no temple exists in Iran, the birthplace of the faith. The Baha’i messages of religious tolerance, gender equality, universal education, and elimination of all prejudice and racism don’t jibe well with many conservative religious entities, and the faith is viewed as a heretical branch of Islam. As such, countries including Yemen, Egypt and Afghanistan have persecuted and imprisoned Baha’is on the sole grounds of their beliefs. And Iran has a history of torturing and killing Baha’is, closing their schools, banning their literature, and denying their rights and marriages.

Worship for Baha’is is very personal and freeform, devoid of rituals and clergy.

Worship for Baha’is is very personal and freeform, devoid of rituals and clergy.

What is worship like for Baha’i?

The freeform, personal worship certainly won’t appeal to everyone, especially those who find comfort in religious rituals. My ex became interested in Baha’i, but the lack of any sort of pomp and circumstance never appealed to me. I have always been more drawn to Wicca, which has a similar acceptance of all faiths, seeing them as symbols, but has the flair of magic spells.

In keeping with the Baha’i philosophy of egalitarianism, everyone is welcome at their temples, and there isn’t any clergy. Ceremonies happen on only a few holy days each year. Typical worship consists of sitting there quietly, praying or meditating on your own. 

It’s also encouraged to get involved in social projects in your community. 

The COVID pandemic meant most people had to stay closer to home, so Wally and Duke headed up to give the Baha’i Temple another visit.

The COVID pandemic meant most people had to stay closer to home, so Wally and Duke headed up to give the Baha’i Temple another visit.

What is the Chicago Baha’i Temple’s history?

It began with the purchase of a couple of plots of land along Lake Michigan in 1907, north of Chicago in what is now the town of Wilmette. Because it was funded by individual contributions, the project was delayed, much like Gaudí’s La Sagrada Família cathedral in Barcelona, Spain (which is still being built, by the way). The Chicago Baha’i Temple was further held up by the two World Wars and the Great Depression. The foundation stone was laid in 1920 and construction ended with the temple’s formal dedication in 1953. 

The temple was built from 1920 to 1953 and is composed of a variety of architectural styles.

The temple was built from 1920 to 1953 and is composed of a variety of architectural styles.

Who designed the Chicago Baha’i Temple?

Louis Bourgeois, a French Canadian who had been a Baha’i for over a decade at the time, got the commission. He wanted the building’s design to reflect the beliefs of the faith: the oneness of humanity and the unity of all religions. To really run with this symbolism, he designed a conglomerate of various architectural styles: Neoclassical symmetry, Gothic ribbing, a Renaissance dome, Romanesque clerestory and Islamic arabesques on pillars that hint at minarets. And while that sounds like an unpleasing Frankensteinian mishmash, it somehow all comes together gracefully.

The carvings on the nine pillars feature symbols of the world’s biggest religions: the Christian cross, the Jewish Star of David, the Islamic star and crescent moon — even the swastika of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. 

That swastika causes a lot of controversy — but that’s just because people don’t understand that Buddhists and Hindus have used that symbol long before the Nazis co-opted it.

That swastika causes a lot of controversy — but that’s just because people don’t understand that Buddhists and Hindus have used that symbol long before the Nazis co-opted it.

Bourgeois’ vision was to create “a gathering place for all humanity.” When describing his design, the architect said, “There are combinations of mathematical lines, symbolizing those of the universe, and in their intricate merging of circle into circle, and circle within circle, we visualize the merging of all religions into one.”

Ornate scrollwork depicting symbols from major world religions covers the building’s façade.

Ornate scrollwork depicting symbols from major world religions covers the building’s façade.

What’s with the repetition of the number nine?

To a Baha’i, nine is the most sacred number. As the highest single digit, it’s a potent symbol of comprehensiveness as well as unity. In addition to the nine columns, there are nine entrances, nine verses above the doors and alcoves and nine fountains. 

Each column is topped by a nine-pointed star, the symbol of Baha’i.

The nine columns around the exterior are each topped with a nine-pointed star, the symbol of the Baha’i faith.

The nine columns around the exterior are each topped with a nine-pointed star, the symbol of the Baha’i faith.

Small pools and fountains surround the Baha’i Temple.

Small pools and fountains surround the Baha’i Temple.

How many Baha’i temples are there?

The original idea was to have one house of worship on each inhabited continent (sorry about your luck, Antarctica), and the one in Wilmette, known as the Mother Temple of the West, remains the only one in North America. It’s also the oldest Baha’i temple in the world. (The first temple was built in Ashkhabad, modern-day Turkmenistan, in 1908 but was commandeered by the Soviets and later badly damaged by an earthquake before being demolished in 1963.)

The temple outside of Chicago is the only one on the continent and is supposed to serve all of North America.

The temple outside of Chicago is the only one on the continent and is supposed to serve all of North America.

Here’s a list of Baha’i temples around the world:

Other national or local Baha’i houses of worship are planned for the Democratic Republic of Congo, Papua New Guinea, Cambodia, India, Kenya, Colombia and Vanuatu.

If you’re in the Chicago area, consider a trip north of the city to visit the Baha’i Temple.

If you’re in the Chicago area, consider a trip north of the city to visit the Baha’i Temple.

What about the gardens?

The gardens are an essential design element at all the temples. There’s one in front of each of the nine entrances to the temple, featuring rectangular as well as rounded elements, revealing influences both Western and Eastern.

Wandering through the gardens with our friend Kate, we kept circling the temple, admiring its beauty. The circumambulation can be meditative.

Who’d have thought that the delicate beauty of the Baha’i Temple was achieved using concrete?!

Who’d have thought that the delicate beauty of the Baha’i Temple was achieved using concrete?!

What is the Chicago temple made of?

Would you believe that various materials were suggested, including limestone, granite, terracotta and even aluminum, before they decided upon concrete?

This didn’t go over so well, as people feared the material lacked beauty. But a fifth-generation stone carver named John Earley devised a technique inspired by Italian mosaics. He exposed the larger pebbles in the aggregate of the mixture, which gave the concrete an unusual warmth. And when you see the final product nowadays, there’s no denying its lacelike beauty that seems to glow, earning its nickname as the Temple of Light and Unity.

Sadly, neither Bourgeois nor Earley lived to see the temple’s completion. –Wally

Kate wasn’t the biggest fan of this shot. “It looks like you’re in front of some office building,” she said. Wally looked at the pic and replied, “That’s some office building!”

Kate wasn’t the biggest fan of this shot. “It looks like you’re in front of some office building,” she said. Wally looked at the pic and replied, “That’s some office building!”

Bahá'í House of Worship
100 Lindon Ave.
Wilmette, IL 60091

 

Atlas Studios: The Hollywood of Morocco

Ouarzazate, a stopover en route from Marrakech to the Sahara, is where blockbusters and TV series, including Gladiator, Kundun, The Mummy and Game of Thrones, were shot.

If you’ve seen a Hollywood movie set in the desert, there’s a good chance it was shot at Atlas Studios. The Mummy, Gladiator and Kingdom of Heaven have all filmed sequences here.

If you’ve seen a Hollywood movie set in the desert, there’s a good chance it was shot at Atlas Studios. The Mummy, Gladiator and Kingdom of Heaven have all filmed sequences here.

On the well-traveled route from Marrakech, almost all roads lead tourists heading to the Sahara Desert through the city of Ouarzazate (pronounced Wahr-za-zaht). It looks like a sleepy town, and, indeed, its name is derived from the local Amazigh dialect for “without” (ouar) and “noise” (zazt). 

But under the surface, the Gateway to the Sahara has a few surprises up its sleeve. Just minutes from the town center is a major motion picture facility. Though there’s no Hollywood sign visible on a hillside, there are faux pharaonic statues and a pair of iron gates emblazoned in gold letters with the name Atlas Corporation Studios. 

“You can really see through the illusion when you go around back and realize that it’s all supported by bamboo scaffolding. ”

The working movie studio, which takes its name from the vast mountain range that surrounds it, was established in 1983 by Moroccan entrepreneur Mohamed Belghmi, who recognized the need for a permanent film facility in the region. He promoted Morocco as the perfect setting for virtually any Middle Eastern location — think Biblical epics and Ancient Egyptian myths. Perhaps he took a cue from British producer David Lea, who, in 1962, saw the potential of Ouarzazate when they needed a desert location for Lawrence of Arabia. 

It’s all a façade (literally!) at Atlas Studios. What at first appears to be a temple is actually just a front supported by scaffolding.

It’s all a façade (literally!) at Atlas Studios. What at first appears to be a temple is actually just a front supported by scaffolding.

Lights, Camera, Action!

When the cameras aren’t rolling, public tours of the studio are offered, and that’s just what Wally, our friend Vanessa and I did after visiting the UNESCO World Heritage site of Aït Benhaddou en route to a camel ride and overnight in the middle of the Sahara. The entrance fee is 80 dirhams (about $9 at the time of this writing), though ours was included as part of our tour package.

Our driver dropped us off outside of the complex, where we joined a small group and guide leading a walking tour of the studio. 

Just a sampling of the many movies and TV shows filmed at Atlas

Just a sampling of the many movies and TV shows filmed at Atlas

The first thing we saw after passing through its gates was the elaborate interior set of a Tibetan temple, one of the soundstages constructed for the 1997 film Kundun, Martin Scorcese’s biopic based on the life of the 14th Dali Lama. The track used by the cameraman during production is still in place on the floor of the set. 

Fun fact: Extras from Tibet were flown in to lend the movie authenticity. 

You can see the track used for the camera in Kundun. It’s this kind of behind-the-scenes looks at movie production that make a visit to Atlas Studios so fun.

You can see the track used for the camera in Kundun. It’s this kind of behind-the-scenes looks at movie production that make a visit to Atlas Studios so fun.

Beyond the temple lies a replica F-16 prop jet plane used in the production of The Jewel of the Nile (1985), starring Michael Douglas, Kathleen Turner and Danny DeVito. 

While the sets at Atlas are impressive, they pale in comparison to the real deal, obviously.

While the sets at Atlas are impressive, they pale in comparison to the real deal, obviously.

Taking a Peek Behind the Curtain

From afar everything looks real — but once we got closer, it became clear that it’s all smoke and mirrors. Walls are actually false fronts, their sides sculpted from polystyrene and concrete. But you can really see through the illusion when you go around back and realize that it’s all supported by bamboo scaffolding. More than a few were weathered and worn by the passage of time and desert air. 

Hang in there, Vanessa!

Hang in there, Vanessa!

Not sure if you knew this, but Wally’s a witch.

Not sure if you knew this, but Wally’s a witch.

On one lot, the three of us found ourselves in a medieval square that was surprisingly small. But the buildings’ exteriors use forced perspective, which, when seen through a camera lens gives the illusion of being farther than they really are. Incidentally, this was where the scene of Russell Crowe’s character, Maximus, getting sold into slavery in Gladiator (Ridley Scott, 2000) was shot. 

We were quite charmed by the Egyptian temple sets, the largest of which were used for Asterix & Obelix: Mission Cleopatra, a French film based on the comic, starring Christian Clavier as Astérix, Gérard Depardieu as Obélix and Monica Bellucci as Cleopatra. 

The global hit series Game of Thrones converted one of the Atlas backlots into Pentos, one of the Free Cities of Essos, where Daenerys Targaryen lived in exile early on.

Vivid technicolor Egyptian temple interiors. I wonder what the hieroglyphics translate to?

Vivid technicolor Egyptian temple interiors. I wonder what the hieroglyphics translate to?

Atlas’ Massive Productions

In terms of scale, Atlas is one of the largest movie studios in the world. At 49 acres, it’s equal to the length of 37 football fields. It’s so vast that there’s confusion as to where sets end and the sprawling desert begins.

When a film finishes production, the sets are typically left behind, with new ones built nearby for the next shoot. The end result is a studio that grows larger each year. That means many big-budget productions are left in situ, though some are recycled and reworked for other features. 

Atlas acts as a stand-in for many countries of the Middle East, but Egypt in particular, as attested by the numerous set pieces, like this ram-headed sphinx.

Atlas acts as a stand-in for many countries of the Middle East, but Egypt in particular, as attested by the numerous set pieces, like this ram-headed sphinx.

Visiting the studios was one of the highlights of a trip filled with astounding adventures. It was a fascinating glimpse behind the scenes. We weren’t sure what to expect and were pleasantly surprised. Our guide was friendly and gave us plenty of time to take pictures. If you’re looking for an interesting day trip from Marrakech or happen to be en route to the Sahara, you should definitely add Atlas Studios to your itinerary. –Duke

Special shoutout to Vanessa for sharing her photos with us. Our camera’s memory card got fried on this trip and we lost most of our photos.

Is that the Ancient Egyptian temple of Karnak?! Oh, it’s just a replica at Atlas Studios in Morocco.

Is that the Ancient Egyptian temple of Karnak?! Oh, it’s just a replica at Atlas Studios in Morocco.

Atlas Movie Studios
Km 5
BP 28 Route de Marrakech
Ouarzazate, Morocco

 

5 of the World’s Most Underrated Adventure Travel Destinations

The lemurs of Madagascar, the prayer flags of Nepal, the rock faces of South Korea, the azure waters of Slovenia and the mountainside fortresses of Bhutan: These are the best-kept secret destinations for trekking and other outdoor activities.

templeofgurupadmasambhava.jpg

The Temple of Guru Padmasambhava is just one of the many delights found in Bhutan, one of the lesser known (albeit a bit tricky to visit) adventure travel destinations.

Choosing a destination for your next adventure can feel downright overwhelming. Trekking in Greenland? Bouldering in Utah? Paddling the Caribbean? Throwing a dart at a map and hoping it lands somewhere cool?

When the entire globe is your playground, it can be tough to choose. Hey, nothing like a list of suggestions to get the wheels turning, right? 

“Madagascar is an adventure travel destination that rivals the Galapagos in the “did I just step into a Dr. Seuss book?” factor. ”

Here are five of the world’s most underrated adventure travel destinations, all with their own unique appeal. Maybe that means the bucket list just got five lines longer. Better get planning!   

Baobad trees in Madagascar definitely up the Dr. Seuss factor.

Baobab trees in Madagascar definitely up the Dr. Seuss factor.

1. Madagascar 

This far-flung island off the eastern coast of Africa isn’t just dancing lemurs — it’s an adventure travel destination that rivals the Galapagos in the “did I just step into a Dr. Seuss book?” factor. For lovers of nature, this island boasts biodiversity in spades, with chameleons, primates, frogs and sealife calling it home. For adventurers, its lack of cars means every step becomes part of an exploratory trek. 

Many spots on Madagascar are home to lemurs.

Many spots on Madagascar are home to lemurs.

Between Madagascar’s Mantadia and Ranomafana National Parks, visitors will find miles and miles of hiking trails seemingly from another planet. After exploring inland, adventurers can migrate to the coast to unwind at pristine stretches of beach, like the impossibly turquoise Nosy Be island, which doubles as a lemur habitat. 

Prayer flags are found throughout Nepal. They’re said to carry prayers and mantras on the wind.

Prayer flags are found throughout Nepal. They’re said to carry prayers and mantras on the wind.

2. Nepal 

Perched atop the spine of the planet, Nepal might not seem “underrated” at all. Here’s the thing: With big names like Everest within its borders, it’s certainly one of the ultimate adventure destinations of the world. 

The base camp at Everest, the highest mountain on the planet, is a colorful spot to kick off a trek.

The base camp at Everest, the highest mountain on the planet, is a colorful spot to kick off a trek.

However, it’s a country that can feel entirely too challenging or out of reach for many travellers. When its main attraction is the tallest mountain on Earth, Nepal can be a bit intimidating to the masses. But you can, and should, visit even if you’re not planning on setting foot in a base camp. There’s something about trekking in Nepal, prayers flag fluttering overhead, rhododendrons blooming, towering peaks in the foreground… It’s magical. Don’t keep putting it off until you’re better, older, wiser, whatever. 

Paro Taktsang, a Buddhist monastery in Bhutan, clings to the cliffside.

Paro Taktsang, a Buddhist monastery in Bhutan, clings to the cliffside.

3. Bhutan 

As much as the idea of isolation has taken on an entirely new meaning in the recent past (curse you, COVID!), Bhutan exemplifies one of the most fascinating applications of isolation in the tourism world. Having only just allowed television into the country in 1999 and still prohibiting the sale of goods like tobacco, Bhutan has opened to the ideas of the rest of the world on its own schedule. This includes tourism.

The masked dances of Bhutan take place annually. Try to catch one — it’s said to purify the soul and bring good luck.

The masked dances of Bhutan take place annually. Try to catch one — it’s said to purify the soul and bring good luck.

Even getting into Bhutan feels a bit like jumping through hoops. You’ll need to be invited by a citizen of the country (unless you hold a passport from India, Bangladesh or the Maldives), or be a guest of the government. You’ll be required to pay a set daily fee to see the country, and the geographical isolation of the nation makes flights costly and complicated. 

However, if you manage to wrangle a visit, you’ll be rewarded with some of the most exceptional, unspoiled scenery the world has to offer, as well as a rich culture developed without interruption from the outside world. From 7,000-meter summits to lush green valleys, the natural landscape is simply unreal. Of course, the dzongs (fortresses) perched atop impossibly steep cliffs are one of the gems of Bhutan. The chance to explore this unknown destination is a rare treat and undoubtedly worth the effort. 

Cycling and great food come together for wellness travels in South Korea.

Cycling and great food come together for wellness travels in South Korea.

4. South Korea 

This small country (slightly larger than the U.S. state of Indiana) is an absolute goldmine when it comes to outdoor adventure. And South Korea’s relative lack of “hype” in the adventure travel world is a blessing in disguise. 

Rock climbers will find numerous sites for adventure in South Korea.

Rock climbers will find numerous sites for adventure in South Korea.

While others flock to Iceland and the Rockies, you can discover South Korea’s expansive hiking trails and climbing-ready rocky cliffs in peace. There are 20 mountains a stone’s throw from Seoul, making outdoor adventure an easy outing once you’re done eating your way through the capital (which you definitely should). Rock climbers will find more places than they could hope to cover in one trip, and many of these locations are so beautiful that the locals believe spirits call them home.

Because of a robust road system, South Korea is a must for cyclists looking to put in miles somewhere new, and the snowy slopes near Pyeongchang are perfect off-the-beaten-path destinations for snow sports enthusiasts. No shortage of adventure to be had here!

A small isle in Lake Bled in Slovenia is home to the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary.

A small isle in Lake Bled in Slovenia is home to the Pilgrimage Church of the Assumption of Mary.

5. Slovenia

Slovenia typically isn’t considered one of Europe’s many top-notch travel destinations. But as incredible as Italy and Spain will always be, Slovenia is truly one of the most underrated adventure travel destinations in the world. 

The gorgeous Soca River in Slovenia is a great spot for kayaking, rafting and other water sports.

The gorgeous Soca River in Slovenia is a great spot for kayaking, rafting and other water sports.

It’s a teeny country, but it offers the Slovenian Alps, the bright blue Soca River, hidden beaches on seaside stretches and beautiful Lake Bled. Whether you’re looking to kayak, swim, hike, go canyoneering or just savor a fantastic view, Slovenia delivers. Plus, you’re not going to be battling crowds or dodging selfie sticks while you explore. 


Apologies in advance for the wanderlust. Which of these underrated adventure travel destinations will you be visiting first? –Lukas Saville

TWA Flight Center: 8 Facts About the Futuristic Mid-Century Modern Masterpiece

Channeling the Jet Age, the Eero Saarinen-designed Terminal 5 at New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport received a second life as the lobby of the TWA Hotel.

Whether you think it looks like a bird or a sea turtle, there’s no denying the architectural excellence of the TWA Flight Center.

Whether you think it looks like a bird or a sea turtle, there’s no denying the architectural excellence of the TWA Flight Center.

When I had to travel to New York to attend Shoppe Object, an independent home and gift show, at Pier 36, where I’d be assisting the Hay wholesale team with taking orders, Wally figured he’d tag along. 

We flew into JFK a day early and put aside an extra hour or so to visit Terminal 5, or T5, and get a drink at the Sunken Lounge and explore the iconic Eero Saarinen-designed TWA Flight Center. 

One of the first things you’ll see is this amazing check-in desk for the TWA Hotel, with the departures and arrival board (it might be old-fashioned, but it’s got up-to-date listings) and staffers in retro outfits.

One of the first things you’ll see is this amazing check-in desk for the TWA Hotel, with the departures and arrival board (it might be old-fashioned, but it’s got up-to-date listings) and staffers in retro outfits.

“The space reminded me of Antoni Gaudí’s La Sagrada Família Cathedral in its organic sensibility.

To me, this was Saarinen’s cathedral to aviation.”

After we disembarked, we took the AirTrain to Terminal 5, then followed the signs directing us to the TWA Hotel. 

Here are eight interesting facts about the TWA Flight Center. 

Howard Hughes in the cockpit of a TWA plane. He bought the airline and commission the construction of the Flight Center.

Howard Hughes in the cockpit of a TWA plane. He bought the airline and commissioned the construction of the Flight Center.

1. Playboy Howard Hughes hired Eero Saarinen to build the terminal, costs be damned. 

Prior to becoming a recluse and taking up residence of the penthouse at the Desert Inn Hotel in Las Vegas, Howard Hughes, one of the wealthiest men in the world, dabbled in motion picture direction, production and aviation. He acquired control of TWA (short for Trans World Airlines) in 1939, without ever holding an official position. 

Known to want the best that money could buy, in 1959, Hughes commissioned Eero Saarinen, the Finnish-American architect behind the 630-foot-high Gateway Arch in St. Louis, Missouri, to design a terminal for the airline. Never one to keep to a budget, construction costs for the terminal ballooned from $9 million to $15 million (equal to a staggering $130 million in 2021).

An old map that shows TWA’s routes

An old map that shows TWA’s routes

Fun fact: Hughes was well known for his dalliances with celebrities of both sexes, including Katherine Hepburn, Cary Grant, Ginger Rogers and Olivia de Havilland.  

The sky blue VW bus out front is totally groovy, man.

The sky blue VW bus out front is totally groovy, man.

2. Saarinen got the inspiration for his mid-century modern marvel from a grapefruit.

Often described as a swooping bird, I found the structure to more closely resemble a sea turtle. 

The TWA Flight Center was dedicated to the Golden Age of travel and was a marvel of mid-century modern design when it opened in May 1962, nearly 60 years ago — the likes of which the world had never seen. 

If Eero Saarinen didn’t eat grapefruit, the TWA Flight Center would never have been conceived.

If Eero Saarinen didn’t eat grapefruit, the TWA Flight Center would never have been conceived.

Legend has it that the architect arrived at the building’s evocative form one morning during breakfast, after flipping over a hollowed-out grapefruit rind and pressing down in the middle. 

The Flight Center’s shell-shaped roof consists of four symmetrical reinforced concrete forms separated from one another by narrow skylights. Inside, undulating organic forms of the 200,000-square-foot lobby merge inward — soaring ceilings blend into walls, and those walls become floors. The space reminded me of Antoni Gaudí’s La Sagrada Família Cathedral in its organic sensibility. To me, this was Saarinen’s cathedral to aviation.

At the center of the terminal’s vaulted ceilings, the original Vulcain clock still keeps the time.

The original clock high above, positioned where the many arches converge on the ceiling

The original clock high above, positioned where the many arches converge on the ceiling

Speaking of time, Saarinen’s ran out all too soon. Sadly, the designer never lived to see his finished creation. He died at the age of 51, during surgery to remove a brain tumor, in 1961 — one year before the Flight Center was complete.

Swooping staircases and curving walkways fill the interior.

Swooping staircases and curving walkways fill the interior.

3. The media adored the TWA Flight Center, but one of Saarinen’s fellow architects described it as part of a “nightmare.”

Today, Saarinen is revered as one of the most important architects of the 20th century. However, when the TWA Flight Center opened in 1962 at what was then Idlewild Airport, not all of the attention it attracted was positive. The press was enthusiastic about his design, heaping acclaim on the structure’s dynamic form and fluid interior. 

But some of Saarinen’s peers were critical of his work. British architect and critic Alan Colquhoun was quoted in Architectural Design as saying the Flight Center was “like the monster forests of a child’s nightmare, where a toadstool may be 20 feet high or like the dematerialized and unearthly forms of an Expressionist film set.”

You can understand why critic Alan Colquhoun would say the interior feels like an Expressionist film set — but why does that have to be a bad thing?

You can understand why critic Alan Colquhoun would say the interior feels like an Expressionist film set — but why does that have to be a bad thing?

It was designated as a New York City landmark in 1994 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2005. 

Planes are a lot bigger than they used to me, rendering Terminal 5 obsolete.

Planes are a lot bigger than they used to be, rendering Terminal 5 obsolete.

4. The iconic terminal was ultimately too small to work for larger planes and closed for almost two decades. 

By the mid-’70s, the aging hub became impractical — Saarinen’s design couldn’t accommodate the proliferation of wide-body jets that could carry hundreds of passengers at a time. The terminal was still used for smaller planes but eventually closed, with the last flight departing from there in 2001. 

Duke chillaxes on the chili pepper red seating.

Duke chillaxes on the chili pepper red seating.

5. Saarinen didn’t just design the TWA Flight Center — he also created a color for it. 

The signature hue, chili pepper red, which Saarinen developed for the Flight Center can be seen everywhere, from the banquettes and furnishings to the hallway carpeting in the hotel buildings. It stands out in stark contrast to the predominant white interior.

Incidentally, the space was originally outfitted by acclaimed Parisian industrial designer Raymond Loewy, the creative mind behind the 1959 TWA twin globes logo. 

The Sunken Lounge as seen from the second floor.

The Sunken Lounge as seen from the second floor

6. The Sunken Lounge is the hippest spot to grab a drink at JFK.

The centerpiece of the space is the Sunken Lounge cocktail bar, complete with Tulip chairs and pedestal tables designed by Saarinen for Knoll. 

I ordered an Idlewild old fashioned, while Wally got a Bloody Mary. We were particularly delighted with the retro swizzle stick featuring a dancing Shiva, the Hindu god.

The drinks might be spendy, but the atmosphere makes it worthwhile.

The drinks might be spendy, but the atmosphere makes it worthwhile.

Wally’s a sucker for spicy Bloodys.

Wally’s a sucker for spicy Bloodys.

There’s something comforting about the click-click-click of the retro departures board.

There’s something comforting about the click-click-click of the retro departures board.

A split-flap departures board, by Solari di Udine, the Italian manufacturer that made the terminal’s original, displays custom messages instead of flight info. There are over 34,000 tiles on the sign, creating a nostalgia-inducing whir and clatter throughout our visit.

De plane! De plane! One imagines this plane was named Connie cuz she’s a Lockheed Constellation.

De plane! De plane! One imagines this aircraft was named Connie cuz she’s a Lockheed Constellation.

7. The on-site plane, Connie, is now a cocktail lounge — though she once ran drugs in South America.

While enjoying a drink in the Sunken Lounge, you can see a vintage plane through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Wally and I knew we had to explore it. 

Wally’s off to see if there’s any pot left on Connie from her drug-smuggling days.

Wally’s off to see if there’s any pot left on Connie from her drug-smuggling days.

There’s no ticket needed for Duke to board this plane!

There’s no ticket needed for Duke to board this plane!

A 1958 Lockheed Constellation L 1649A — a four-propeller airplane commissioned by Hughes and affectionately known as Connie — sits parked on the tarmac behind the terminal. Its interior has been transformed into a delightful, one-of-a-kind cocktail lounge. 

Grab a drink and some nibblies inside Connie, a plane-turned-cocktail bar.

Grab a drink and some nibblies inside Connie, a plane-turned-cocktail bar.

Check out the cockpit while onboard Connie.

Check out the cockpit while onboard Connie.

In the interim between being a part of the TWA fleet and being a star of the Flight Center, Connie engaged in some dubious activities, including delivering marijuana for a Colombian drug cartel before being abandoned in Honduras, according to Air & Space magazine.

Saarinen designed the Tulip chairs and pedestal tables found throughout the space.

Saarinen designed the Tulip chairs and pedestal tables found throughout the space.

8. A restoration project returned the Flight Center to its former retro space-age glory.

The impeccable attention to detail of the restoration of the former terminal was overseen by Richard Southwick, partner and director of historic preservation at New York-based architecture firm Beyer Blinder Belle. 

A vintage convertible sits out front of the Flight Center.

A vintage convertible sits out front of the Flight Center.

One design element that was particularly challenging was the ceramic penny tiles specified in Saarinen’s original design. A total of 20 million custom ½-inch-diameter bisque-colored mosaic tiles were sourced and used over the course of both phases of the project, covering the floors and swooping interior walls. 

The organic yet futuristic forms create a Jetsons sort of feel, retro and space age all at once.

The organic yet futuristic forms create a Jetsons sort of feel, retro and space age all at once.

Those things on the wall are called payphones. They’re sort of like mobiles, except they were stationary.

Those things on the wall are called payphones. They’re sort of like mobiles, except they were stationary.

There’s an odd little seating area (with another classic car) off to the left when you enter.

There’s an odd little seating area (with another classic car) off to the left when you enter.

Vintage magazines and snacks at the newsstand by the bathroom

Vintage magazines and toiletries at the newsstand by the bathroom

The upper level features a mini-museum of TWA artifacts, including flight attendant uniforms from the 1940s to the 1990s. Designs from Valentino, Cassini and Balmain are on display, along with vintage flight bags. 

The Paris Café on the second floor

The Paris Café on the second floor

Famous designers like Valentino designed flight attendant uniforms for TWA. They’re on display upstairs.

Famous designers like Valentino designed flight attendant uniforms for TWA. They’re on display upstairs.

The Paris Café is located on the second floor of the Flight Center and occupies the footprint of the original Lisbon Lounge. 

The pair of corridors featured in the 2002 Steven Spielberg film Catch Me If You Can, starring Leonardo DiCaprio and Tom Hanks, once led to boarding gates and now offers access to the two wings of the TWA Hotel, Hughes and Saarinen, which partially encircle the terminal.

If you’ve got some extra time before or after a flight at JFK, be sure to stop by the TWA Flight Center for a drink and some photos. Saarinen’s design somehow manages to be retro and futuristic at the same time. –Duke

Follow the signs the Terminal 5, and you’ll be rewarded with the architectural and design wonder that is the TWA Flight Center.

Follow the signs the Terminal 5, and you’ll be rewarded with the architectural and design wonder that is the TWA Flight Center.

 

TWA Flight Center
John F. Kennedy International Airport
JFK Access Road
1 Idlewild Drive
New York, NY 11430

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French Phrases About Food That Are Simply Scrumptious

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There’s nothing sadder than a meal without cheese. Learn this and other sweet French food expressions and idioms. Just please don’t spit in the soup. 

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I’ve always loved expressions. They make language so much more colorful — and they can be cleverly tweaked into the most delightful, groan-inducing puns. 

Plus it’s fun to think about where the strange expressions came from. How did some of these phrases originate? In English, we say something that’s easy is a piece of cake — though you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Maybe we should stick to taking candy from a baby. Why do we go bananas when we’re in a pickle? 

There are just as many crazy idioms across the pond. Here are some French expressions that have to do with types of food: Eat your heart out — just don’t bite off more than you can chew!

“In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie.

But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.”
Oh purée! You don’t know these expressions? Don’t worry. The carrots aren’t cooked — there’s still time to learn them.

Oh purée! You don’t know these expressions? Don’t worry. The carrots aren’t cooked — there’s still time to learn them.

Vegetables

C’est la fin des haricots.

What it translates to: It’s the end of the beans.

What it means: There’s nothing left; that’s the end.

avoir un coeur d’artichaut

What it translates to: to have the heart of an artichoke

What it means: to be unfaithful; to be sensitive

C’est pas tes oignons.

What it translates to: It’s not your onions.

What it means: none of your beeswax; none of your business

raconter des salades

What it translates to: to tell salads

What it means: to tell lies

Oh purée !

What it translates to: Oh, mashed potatoes!

What it means: Darn it!

faire une frite

What it translates to: to make a french fry

What it means: to slap someone on the butt

Les carottes sont cuites.

What it translates to: The carrots are cooked

What it means: What’s done is done; it’s too late.


mettre du beurre dans les épinards

What it translates to: to put butter in the spinach

What it means: to improve your finances; to earn a bit more

être dans les choux

What it translates to: to be in the cabbage

What it means: to be in a bad situation; to fail

 

poireauter

What it translates to: to “leek”

What it means: to wait a long time


C’est un navet !

What it translates to: It’s a turnip!

What it means: It’s a terrible movie.

I’m gonna bring my strawberry and tell you what I think: These French food expressions are just peachy!

I’m gonna bring my strawberry and tell you what I think: These French food expressions are just peachy!

Fruit

avoir la pêche 

What it translates to: to have the peach

What it means: to be full of energy, enthusiastic

ramener sa fraise

What it translates to: to bring one’s strawberry

What it means: to give your opinion

haut comme trois pommes

What it translates to: as high as three apples

What it means: to be short, small

tomber dans les pommes

What it translates to: to fall into the apples

What it means: to faint

rouge comme une tomate

What it translates to: to be as red as a tomato

What it means: to be embarrassed

couper la poire en deux

What it translates to: to cut the pear in half

What it means: to split the bill; to reach a compromise

avoir le melon; prendre le melon

What it translates to: to have the melon; to take the melon

What it means: to be sure of oneself, to be cocky

If you’re going to make a whole cheese about it and be milk soup, well, you can go cook an egg!

If you’re going to make a whole cheese about it and be milk soup, well, you can go cook an egg!

Dairy

avoir le beurre et l'argent du beurre 

What it translates to: to have the butter and the money to buy butter

What it means: to have your cake and eat it too

beurré 

What it translates to: buttered

What it means: wasted, drunk

ne pas avoir inventé le fil à couper le beurre

What it translates to: to not have invented the thread that cuts the butter

What it means: to be dumb, not the brightest

en faire tout un fromage

What it translates to: to make a whole cheese about it

What it means: to make a mountain out of a molehill, to unnecessarily make a big deal out of something

triste comme un repas sans fromage

What it translates to: sad like a meal without cheese

What it means: very sad

être soupe au lait

What it translates to: to be milk soup

What it means: to be quick-tempered

Va te faire cuire un œuf !

What it translates to: Go cook yourself an egg!

What it means: Get lost; leave me alone!

changer de crémerie

What it translates to: to change creameries

What it means: to take your business elsewhere

The French love their baguettes, so it’s not surprising there are a few expressions having to do with bread.

The French love their baguettes, so it’s not surprising there are a few expressions having to do with bread.

Bread

avoir du pain sur la planche

What it translates to: to have bread on the board

What it means: to have a lot to do

pour une bouchée de pain

What it translates to: for a mouthful of bread

What it means: for a small amount, cheaply

Ça ne mange pas de pain. 

What it translates to: This doesn’t eat bread. 

What it means: It couldn’t hurt. 

rouler dans la farine

What it translates to: to roll in the flour

What it means: to swindle

In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie. But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.

In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie. But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.

Meals

cracher dans la soupe

What it translates to: to spit in the soup

What it means: to be ungrateful, to bite the hand that feeds you

une quiche

What it translates to: a quiche 

What it means: someone who is bad at something

avoir le cul bordé de nouilles

What it translates to: to have an ass surrounded by noodles

What it means: to be lucky

Personally, I think these expression really cut the mustard.

Personally, I think these expressions really cut the mustard.

Toppings and Condiments

à quelle sauce on va être mangé

What it translates to: in what sauce we’re going to be eaten

What it means: I don’t know how this’ll pan out; things don’t look good.

La moutarde me monte au nez.

What it translates to: I have mustard coming up my nose.

What it means: I’m annoyed; I’m angry.

tourner au vinaigre

What it translates to: to turn to vinegar

What it means: to go bad

Watering down wine is never a good thing.

Watering down wine is never a good thing.

Drinks

mettre de l’eau dans son vin

What it translates to: to put water in their wine

What it means: to tone it down

Here are a couple of dessert-themed expressions that really aren’t too sweet.

Here are a couple of dessert-themed expressions that really aren’t too sweet.

Sweets

casser du sucre sur le dos de quelqu’un

What it translates to: to break sugar on someone’s back

What it means: to badmouth someone; to talk about someone behind their back

Ce n’est pas de la tarte.

What it translates to: It’s not tarte.

What it means: It’s not going to be easy. 


Hope you find these expressions delectable! Go ahead — talk with your mouth full. –Wally

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MORE FRENCH LESSONS!

French Phrases About Animals

Why is having the cockroach being depressed? What does it mean when you say a drink is cat pee? Learn these and more beastly fun French expressions!

All-Too-Perfect Seaside, Florida

The quaint-as-heck New Urbanism town where “The Truman Show” was filmed will charm visitors, even amidst a red tide.

An aerial view of Seaside, Florida reveals the town’s well-thought-out planning, with buildings surrounding green spaces and everything within walking distance.

An aerial view of Seaside, Florida reveals the town’s well-thought-out planning, with buildings surrounding green spaces and everything within walking distance.

We left early in the morning from Hilton Head, South Carolina with Wally’s parents and arrived in Seaside, Florida around eight hours later. It was one of Shirley’s sister Eve’s favorite places to visit and is located so far west on the Florida Panhandle that it’s in the Central time zone. 

Strangely, we found ourselves simultaneously clearing our suddenly dry throats as we exited the car. We chalked it up as a coincidence — but soon learned it had a more sinister explanation.

Some say the beach at Seaside on the Gulf of Mexico is one of the best in the state of Florida.

Some say the beach at Seaside on the Gulf of Mexico is one of the best in the state of Florida.

We met up with a rental agent who handed us the keys to 208 West Ruskin Place, officially known as Forsythe House. The Shirl asked if the woman knew what was causing the tickle in our throats and got the casual response that it was a byproduct of red tide — airborne toxins released by algal blooms that can cause respiratory illness. The woman suggested we purchase an antihistamine, which would help reduce symptoms. 

That flag is a lesson that there’s a price you pay for perfection: red tide, airborne algal blooms that irritate your throat.

That flag is a lesson that there’s a price you pay for perfection: red tide, airborne algal blooms that irritate your throat.

We ventured out to the town square and stopped by Modica Market. It didn’t really help Wally and I all that much while we were outside but seemed to do the trick for Dave and Shirley. 

Wally and his parents with Duke in front of the charming post office, the first civic building built in town.

Wally and his parents with Duke in front of the charming post office, the first civic building built in town.

Nothing’s Perfect 

“It’s almost too perfect,” Wally said as we perused one of the boutiques near our rental. As if on queue, a shop owner replied, “You do know that The Truman Show was filmed here?” 

““It’s almost too perfect,” Wally said.

As if on queue, a shop owner replied, “You do know that ‘The Truman Show’ was filmed here?” ”
Seaside was almost eerily quaint — so we weren’t surprised to learn that it’s where The Truman Show, starring Jim Carey, was filmed.

Seaside was almost eerily quaint — so we weren’t surprised to learn that it’s where The Truman Show, starring Jim Carey, was filmed.

The film stars Jim Carey as Truman Burbank, an insurance salesman who leads a seemingly ideal life in the idyllic town of Seahaven — only to discover that he’s the unwitting star of one of the longest-airing reality TV series. 

We looked at each other, wide-eyed.

“I knew it looked familiar!” I exclaimed. 

“Now it makes perfect sense,” Wally said.

Our home away from home, Forsythe House

Our home away from home, Forsythe House

Forsythe House on Ruskin Place

I’ve often joked that if I wasn’t so bad at math, I would’ve been an architect. One of the reasons I moved to Chicago was because of its rich and varied architectural legacy. So you can imagine my excitement when we entered the modernist row house we would be staying in. Designed by Walter Chatham for a couple from Chicago, Forsythe House was filled with quirky artwork. Maybe it was too much of an open loft concept (the ceiling of the living room soars three stories high) or perhaps it was the narrow open tread staircase and cable railing system, but the house wasn’t to Shirley’s taste, which skews more traditional. 

Wally and I, though, were utterly smitten with it and loved our third-floor room that overlooked Ruskin Place, the quiet park-like square inspired by the French Quarter of New Orleans. The balconies and archways of the surrounding townhomes are a nod to the Vieux Carré. Buildings display names such as Home Alone, Albert F’s and Beach Music. 

Wally hangs out in Ruskin Place, the charming square outside our rental.

Wally hangs out in Ruskin Place, the charming square outside our rental.

An all-white board-and-batten Carpenter Gothic-inspired chapel designed by Scott Merrill stands at the far end of the green. This type of siding consists of wide boards laid vertically with narrower strips of wood, called battens, covering the gaps. It was striking to look at, but, unfortunately, we were unable to see inside as it’s locked up tight when not in use. It’s most prominent feature is the 68-foot-tall bell tower. 

The quaint, nondenominational Chapel at Seaside

The quaint, nondenominational Chapel at Seaside

Next to the property we were staying at was architect Alexander Gorlin’s residence. Aptly named Stairway to Heaven, its exterior features a two-story-high glass curtain wall and spiral staircase that rises through the interior and corkscrews out through the rooftop to take in sweeping views of Seaside and the Gulf of Mexico. 

“There’s a lady who’s sure all that glitters is gold, and she's buying a stairway to heaven.” –Led Zeppelin

“There’s a lady who’s sure all that glitters is gold, and she's buying a stairway to heaven.” –Led Zeppelin

A Brief History of Seaside and New Urbanism

Founded in 1981, Seaside is located in South Walton County along Florida's scenic two-lane Highway 30A. 

The idea began in 1946 when Davis’ uncle, Joseph Smolian, a businessman from Alabama, bought 80 acres of land near Seagrove Beach on Florida's northwest coast. His intent was to develop and create a summer camp for the employees of Pizitz, the regional department store he co-owned and operated in Birmingham. 

In 1978, ownership of the property was transferred to his nephew Robert Davis. Davis envisioned a self-sustained coastal community where second-home residents could experience “the special pleasure of relaxing on a porch rocker after a shower at the end of the day on the beach,” like he had on family vacations on the Gulf.

Sunsets are a highlight of the day in Seaside, with the sun setting right over the water.

Sunsets are a highlight of the day in Seaside, with the sun setting right over the water.

When development started on the deserted stretch of the Florida Panhandle, Davis tapped Andrés Duany and Elizabeth Plater-Zyberk, pioneers of the New Urbanism movement — a design philosophy which promotes environmentally friendly habits by creating walkable neighborhoods. 

The Seaside Charter School was built, in part, thanks to the location fees from The Truman Show.

The Seaside Neighborhood School was built, in part, thanks to the location fees from The Truman Show.

The planned community of Seaside embodies this ethos. The diminutive post office was the first civic structure to be built, with a charter school and the chapel to follow.

Houses use materials and forms that evoke the vernacular architecture of old Southern towns. Aside from its lawns and squares, the city’s landscaping incorporates native drought-tolerant species such as the gnarled branch evergreen known as scrub oak. 

All of the main shops in Seaside open onto the town green, complete with an amphitheater. You can see the back of the post office and the line of food trucks in the background.

All of the main shops in Seaside open onto the town green, complete with an amphitheater. You can see the back of the post office and the line of food trucks in the background.

It’s a Small World

While browsing the vinyl collection at Central Square Records, we ran into Nichole, a delightfully crass friend of ours from Chicago. She was staying with her mother in a nearby town and spending the afternoon in Seaside. Nichole remarked that she was relieved to be out of the house as it was a real “boner-killer” being at home. Wally went out that night with her to get into some mischief and was introduced to the Justin Bieber song “Love Yourself,” which Nichole had on repeat. 

Wally fell in love with the Duckies mascot.

Wally fell in love with the Duckies mascot.

Duke had fun at Duckies Shop of Fun.

Duke had fun at Duckies Shop of Fun.

Seaside has an eclectic array of shops. A nearby boutique behind the rental we stayed in named An Apartment in Paris turned out to be a favorite of The Shirl. The eclectic, cluttered shop offered French milled soaps, artwork and home goods. It’s as close as you’ll get to exploring the Paris Flea Market in Florida. 

Since everything is within walking distance, Wally and I took the opportunity to explore and wander the network of footpaths. Of course we spent a lot of time perusing the shelves of Sundog Books. And we started our days getting our caffeine fix and baked goodies at Amavida coffeeshop. 

Duke and Wally hung out here a lot, with a bookshop on the bottom floor and a used record shop above.

Duke and Wally hung out here a lot, with a bookshop on the bottom floor and a used record shop above.

Grab a meal or two at the Airstream trailer food trucks, which line Highway 30A.

Grab a meal or two at the Airstream trailer food trucks, which line Highway 30A.

Across the main thoroughfare of Route 30A, silver trailers used as food trucks and known as Airstream Row, offer a variety of fare from fresh-pressed organic juices to the perfect grilled cheese sandwich. 

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Making an Entrance: The Pavilions of Seaside

At Seaside, all of the beaches are public. A series of pavilions mark access points, each one designed by a different architect.

One of my favorites was David Coleman’s Obe Pavilion. The slatted-wood obelisk was adorned with lights during our visit in December and appears in the background in The Truman Show. 

Take a ride over to the nearby (and colorfully named) town of WaterColor. We had lunch at the WaterColor Inn and bought handpainted ornaments at a small craft fair.

Take a ride over to the nearby (and colorfully named) town of WaterColor. We had lunch at the WaterColor Inn and bought handpainted ornaments at a small craft fair.

Though the “red tide tickle” deviated from the script, and we were only in Seaside for a long weekend, we were happy to have supporting roles in this idyllic town. –Duke

 
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