Step Into the World of Gossip Girl: The Ultimate NYC Tour

Spotted: a glam guide to the most iconic Gossip Girl locations! Take a journey through the scandalous lives of Manhattan’s elite. Grand Central, the Empire State, the Met steps — here’s everything you need to feel like you’re living in the show.

Are you ready for a story of love, drama and betrayal? Well, then hop aboard for a tour of Gossip Girl shooting locations. 

I still remember the days when my classmates and I would huddle around the TV, transfixed by the scandals and love triangles of our favorite Upper East Siders. From the unforgettable (and toxic) pairing of Chuck and Blair to Serena’s iconic style — not to mention Lonely Boy’s emo angst — Gossip Girl had us hooked.

“It wasn’t just the characters that captured our hearts — it was the city that served as their playground.

New York City became a character in its own right, a backdrop for the drama and glamour that unfolded on screen. ”

But it wasn’t just the characters that captured our hearts — it was the city that served as their playground. New York City became a character in its own right, a backdrop for the drama and glamour that unfolded on screen. And as a die-hard fan, I knew I had to experience it for myself.

That’s how I found myself on a bus full of fellow Gossip Girl enthusiasts, ready to embark on a tour of the show’s most iconic filming locations. We chose BCS charter bus rental for our journey, knowing that we would be in for a comfortable ride with amenities like plush seats, a bathroom and even a fridge. And of course, the show’s killer soundtrack was a must-have for our journey.

Our adventure took us to some of the most famous spots from the show, from Grand Central to the steps of the Met. And we of course made a stop at the Empire State, where Chuck and Blair’s romance reached new heights (and lows).

As we traveled around the city, I couldn’t help but feel like I was living my best Gossip Girl fantasy. 

Stop 1: Grand Central Terminal

89 East 42nd Street

Let’s go back to where it all began: iconic Grand Central. This is where Gossip Girl’s leading lady, Serena, returned to NYC in the very first episode. I’ll never forget the moment Dan laid eyes on Serena here, which set off a chain reaction of drama.

After grabbing a coffee at Central Market, we headed inside to see the spot where it all began for ourselves, snapping some pics of the breathtaking architecture.

Stop 2: The Campbell

15 Vanderbilt Avenue

The Campbell isn’t your average bar — it’s a scene straight out of Gossip Girl. With three distinct areas, including a cozy fireplace, it’s no wonder Serena and Nate chose this spot for their steamy rendezvous. At the time, Nate was still dating Blair. Talk about scandalous!

This historic bar has been given a stylish makeover and is a must-visit destination for any fan of the show.

Stop 3: Museum of the City of New York

1220 Fifth Avenue

Get ready to step back in time and experience the history of New York at the Museum of the City. It boasts an impressive collection of photographs, interactive exhibits and in-depth analyses of the city’s architecture and infrastructure during various eras.

But what’s the connection to the show? The museum was a filming location for the Gossip Girl reboot. It’s where the new characters made their grand entrance at Constance Billard School, and we couldn’t help but feel like we were part of the show’s elite crew during our visit.

Stop 4: Empire Hotel

44 West 63rd Street

We couldn’t have a Gossip Girl tour without a visit to the Empire Hotel, the stomping grounds of Chuck Bass himself. This iconic hotel is not only a filming location but a hub for luxurious dining and posh accommodations.

We had a meal at PJ Clarke’s and reminisced about all the Chuck and Blair drama that unfolded within those walls. And don’t miss the chance to take in the stunning view from the rooftop bar — it’s the perfect spot to feel like a true Upper East Sider and get a view of the iconic neon sign. 

Stop 5: Empire State Building

20 West 34th Street

We couldn’t leave New York without a visit to the Empire State Building. It’s not only a world-renowned landmark, it’s also the site of one of Chuck and Blair’s most epic moments. This is where Blair was supposed to meet Chuck — but things didn’t go quite as planned.

Don’t worry — our visit was drama-free, and we were able to take in the stunning views of the city from the top.

Stop 6: Metropolitan Museum of Art

1000 Fifth Avenue

Last but certainly not least, we have the iconic Met. This museum may have many impressive exhibits, but let’s be real. We’re all here for one thing: the steps. These stairs are the backdrop of some of the most memorable scenes from the show, where Blair and her minions held court.

We couldn’t resist taking our own Blair-inspired photos on the steps, and felt like true Upper East Siders for a moment. It was the perfect ending to our Gossip Girl tour of New York.

Following in the Footsteps of Your Favorite Gossip Girl Characters

Are you following along, fellow GG addicts? If you’re anything like me and want to immerse yourself in the fabulous world of the Upper East Side elite, then this is the tour for you! Rent a charter bus, gather your squad of Gossip Girl enthusiasts and hit up all the iconic spots from the show. From Grand Central Station to the Met’s legendary steps, you’ll feel like you’re living in the show itself. Trust me: It’s a full day of fun and a must-do for any true fan. 

So what are you waiting for? Grab your Blair headbands and don your Chuck Bass suits and hop aboard! You know you love me. XOXO –Alexandra Karsonn

The Pabst Mansion in Milwaukee: Hopped Up on History

Take a tour of the historic home of the preeminent beer baron, Captain Frederick Pabst — an architectural gem from the Gilded Age that’s sure to quench your thirst for fun things to do in Milwaukee. 

“Could you tell whoever put up that cell tower to move it, please?” Wally asked our tour guide, Roxie. “It’s ruining my shot.”

My parents are always up for an adventure. Whenever they come to visit us, we find a fun day trip to take. Since they typically drive to see us and only spend a few days, the maximum distance for these excursions is about two hours away. When we visited my family in the fall, we toured Graycliff, the summer residence built for Darwin Martin’s wife Isabelle and designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. 

Next up: the Pabst Mansion in Milwaukee. Like Graycliff, it’s a historic property that had been acquired, adaptively reused and inadvertently saved by the occupation of a religious organization. Milwaukee is 92 miles, or about an hour and a half away, from Chicago, where we live, so the opportunity to tour the former home of a beer baron and his family made for an intoxicating destination. 

“The Pabst Mansion cost $254,000 in the early 1890s — a figure equivalent to about $8.4 million today. ”

A bust of the beer baron

A Brief History of the Pabst Mansion 

In 1890 Captain Johann Gottlieb Friedrich “Frederick” Pabst commissioned architects George Bowman Ferry and Alfred Charles Clas to create a 20,000-square-foot residence on what was then Grand Avenue (now Wisconsin Avenue). The home was one of the finest of the 19th century mansions built on Milwaukee’s premier residential street. 

The project was completed two years later at a cost of $254,000, which included the home, furnishings and artwork — a figure equivalent to about $8.4 million today. Pabst had 8,000 square feet of the house for himself, his wife, Maria, and the four children who survived to adulthood. The remainder was used as living quarters and service areas for the staff. The Pabsts employed up to 15 servants, who ran the day-to-day operations of the house.

The residence was modern for the time and one of the first to be wired for electricity, 10 years after this new-fangled energy source had arrived in Milwaukee. Additionally, the home boasted 10 full baths and a state-of-the-art central forced-air heating system. 

You’ll notice a theme that runs throughout the tour: elaborate decoration.

Face Value: The Exterior of the Pabst Mansion

Built in the Flemish Revival style, the mansion’s striking cream-colored brick façade features terracotta ornamentation and corbie gables, stepped triangular peaks, which reflect 17th century Northern European architectural forms. The gables have spires that were replicated and replaced as the originals had been destroyed by lightning sometime in the 20th century. 

Our gang taking a group shot in front of the landmark

Beneath the loggia and flanking the mansion’s double doors are a pair of ornate hand-forged ironwork window grilles emblazoned with the initials FP, for Frederick Pabst, of course. They feature delicate scrollwork and rosettes and were made by Austrian-born blacksmith Cyril Colnik. Captain Papst met Colnik at the 1893 Columbian Exposition in Chicago and encouraged him to come to Milwaukee. Colnik agreed, and set up a successful studio, where he worked until his retirement in 1955. Considered the “Mozart of Metal” for his skill at sculpting with iron, he achieved national fame as one of the foremost metal craftsmen of his time. 

The beautiful murals throughout the Pabst Mansion were painted over when the Catholic church took possession of the house. Thankfully, the restoration team was able to remove the offending coat of white and preserve the scenes beneath like this one.

Altar(ed) States: The Church’s Ownership — and the Battle to Save the Pabst Mansion

Following the death of their mother, Maria, in 1906, Gustave and Frederick Pabst Jr. put the palatial family home up for sale. After a couple of years had passed without any prospects, the boys sold the property to the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Milwaukee for $97,000 as a residence for the archbishop and offices. The sale included the furniture of the ladies parlor, music room and formal dining room. 

By 1974 the archdiocese had outgrown the mansion, and the last archbishop to live there, William Edward Cousins, moved out. It’s difficult to comprehend, but the mansion’s future was at risk. The property was sold to a real estate developer whose sole interest was to demolish the historic home in favor of a parking lot for his neighboring business, the Coach House Motor Inn. 

Our tour of the home was led by the fabulous Roxie.

Thanks to the advocacy of a citizens’ preservation group, Wisconsin Heritages Inc. (WHI), now known as Pabst Mansion Inc., the historic home was saved. They secured a mortgage, and in 1979 the Pabst Mansion was recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and opened for public tours shortly thereafter. As for the Coach House Motor Inn, it has since been absorbed into Marquette University and serves as Mashuda Hall, a coed residence for freshmen and sophomores. 

We were bummed we couldn’t tour the Beaux Arts Pavilion off to the side of the mansion. It’s undergoing restoration.

From Pabst to Present: The Pavilion

To start our tour, we followed our colorful and delightful guide, Roxie, from the Welcome Center next door to the front of a small structure known as the Pavilion. The elaborate Beaux Arts confection designed by Otto Strack extends to the east of the mansion and connects to the home via a covered walkway. The pavilion was originally the Pabst’s display at the 1893 Chicago Columbian Exposition. 

After the fair ended, it was dismantled and transported to Milwaukee, where it was incorporated into the beer baron’s home. Made almost entirely of terracotta, its exterior is ornamented with motifs, including steins, cherubs riding swans and figures representing the god and goddess of wheat and barley. 

The Pavilion began as the Pabst’s display at the Columbian Expo in Chicago, then became a conservatory, chapel and visitors center.

Originally, it was used by the Pabst family as a conservatory for rare and tropical plants. Every summer during the family’s occupancy, their gardener would bring one of their palm trees outside in spring and plant it in the yard, providing a bit of exotic flair. 

Shortly after the occupancy of the archdiocese, the Pavilion was converted into a private chapel for the archbishop. Stained glass windows were added as well as the cross crowning the copper-domed pavilion. 

Unfortunately, at the time of our visit, we were unable to go inside as the structure was undergoing restoration. Buildings constructed for expositions aren’t meant to weather the elements year after year (read the fascinating The Devil in the White City), so the plan is to completely dismantle and reconstruct the Pavilion.  

Off to a good start! The reception hall at the Pabst Mansion has seating, warm-toned wood and a cool antler and iron chandelier.

Making an Entrance: The Reception Hall

Our group followed Roxie through the front doors and into the reception hall of the grand home. I’d describe it as more of a room than a foyer and can only imagine how visitors felt when they arrived. Influential guests at the residence included Teddy Roosevelt before he became president of the United States, while he toured Milwaukee in one of Captain Pabst’s carriages. 

Looking up, I admired the coffered wood ceiling and wrought iron and elk antler chandelier, the focal point of the hall. Sadly, the original, which was fabricated by Colnik, had been removed and purchased by Karl Lotharius for his German tavern Von Trier before WHI had acquired the property. The group enlisted master craftsman Dan Nauman of Bighorn Forge Iron Works to reproduce the fixture and restore the exterior window grilles. A smaller, less ornate chandelier hangs in the musician’s nook. 

Note the wall covering in the reception hall — it’s a costly embossed linen imported from London known as Tynecastle canvas. 

The original art collection by Captain Pabst and Maria featured some of the best artists of the time. Notable works in the room include Halt Before a Wallachian Station, painted by Christian Adolf Schreyer, above the fireplace, and the haunting marble bust of Captain Pabst by Gaetano Trentanove, an Italian sculptor who emigrated to America for the World’s Columbian Exposition of 1893. Like Colnik, Trentanove settled in Milwaukee and opened a studio, which led to a steady stream of portrait commissions from the city’s elite. 

A nook used by musicians to play for guests during parties is situated to the back of the reception hall. It holds an elaborate Black Forest clock and an intricately hand-tooled leather chair. 

Before we proceeded, Roxie provided us with a few basics about the Pabst Mansion: The ground floor was dedicated to entertaining guests and is divided into distinct public and private areas, including the reception hall, two parlors, a formal dining room, a smoking room and Pabst’s study. 

Wally’s favorite room was the ladies’ parlor. He’d have been sneaking in there all the time.

Fit for a Queen: Maria Pabst’s Ladies’ Parlor

The first room we entered off of the reception hall was the elegant ladies’ parlor, where Maria received her society friends. It’s decorated in the Rococo Revival style and showcases gilded curvilinear plasterwork that seems to swell and bloom as if blown by gentle gusts of wind. Fuchsia silk wall panels, curtains and tufted upholstery have been reproduced using samples taken from the original chairs. 

“This feels like a room Marie Antoinette would have had at Versailles,” I whispered to Wally. 

“Yes,” he said. “Only a lot smaller.”

The bright pink floral fabric, which covers chairs and wall panels, certainly makes a statement and helps brighten the cream-colored room.

Bust of Marie Pabst Goodrich by Gaetano Trentanove

Selecting the Fabric by Frederick Solacroix

Hand-painted lilac on the ceiling medallion

While we were admiring the details, Roxie told us about the horrific modifications made while the home was occupied by the church. Most of these were made during the tenure of Archbishop Cousins, who lived in the home from 1959 to 1974. 

For starters, the ladies parlor, along with the rest of the home’s interior walls, ceilings and woodwork, were painted white. This meant covering up some beautiful murals, evoking gasps of horror by our tour group. 

Cousins also had cream-colored wall-to-wall carpeting installed in the first and second floors. 

As Roxie was telling us this, my mind couldn’t process why the archdiocese would have done this to such a magnificent home — especially considering how opulent the interiors of cathedrals can be. 

Thankfully, restoration workers found that the paint used by the church came right off, and the original murals could be preserved.  

The music room was a favorite hangout space for the family and their guests. None of the Pabsts learned to play the piano, though, strangely enough.

Perfect Pitch: The Music Room 

The Pabsts used the less formal Renaissance Revival style parlor for family use and to entertain guests. The walls feature low mahogany wainscot panels and faux ebony twisted columns. Other noteworthy items include a baby grand piano with two stools for duets and a mechanical music box. Although none of the Pabsts apparently knew how to play the piano, the couple welcomed touring performers, undoubtedly appearing at their Pabst Theater, to play for a small audience of friends. 

Their youngest daughter, Emma, married Rudolph Nunnemacher in this room in 1897. The elaborate ceremony was held under a canopy of white and gold silk with pink electric lights on a raised dais.

Fun fact: the Pabst Mansion logo was inspired by their wedding invitations, which featured hand-painted watercolor scenes taken from photographs of Rudolph’s global travels, paired with the couple’s initials. 

Touring pianists would entertain the family.

Love it! A statue of Cupid

Portrait of Captain Pabst by Charles James Fox

Another fun fact: Apparently, Captain Pabst always wanted a brown Jersey cow. (I guess that answers the query, What do you get the man who has everything?) According to a local newspaper, on Pabst’s last Christmas, in 1904, his two sons, Frederick Jr. and Gustave, surprised him by wheeling a cow into the music room. Sadly, the Captain bought the farm, so to speak, six days later, on New Year’s Eve. 

The dining table was set up for 10 but could extend to seat 22!

A Seat at the Table: The Formal Dining Room 

Roxie told us that the dining table, chairs, built-in cabinets and mirrors were all custom-made by the Milwaukee-based Matthew Brothers Manufacturing Company, one of the most prominent furniture manufacturing houses in the United States during the 19th century. When fully extended, the dining table can seat 22 people. 

She continued by sharing an interesting story about the light fixture that hangs above the table. It was considered a marvel of modern engineering at the time, as it was equipped to use gas, kerosene and electricity. 

Landscape paintings above the doors were painted over by the archdiocese but were also able to be restored.  

The formal dining room is on the first floor of the mansion.

A small pale yellow tiled conservatory is attached to the dining room.

Fun fact: The darkly humorous actor Vincent Price filmed a commercial while seated at the Pabsts’ dining room table, ready to tuck into a submarine sandwich from Cousins Subs. 

On Captain Pabst’s desk is a letter he wrote to his children telling them that a good name is more important than riches, and imploring them to be generous and honest.

Hidden Assets: Captain Pabst’s Study

The Captain’s study is the most Germanic and elaborate of the rooms: tooled leather, trophies and an ornately carved armchair with lion-headed arms. I couldn’t help but admire the room’s highly detailed walnut and oak woodwork. Roxie explained that the interiors were inspired by the 17th century German Renaissance, and an antiquing technique was used to appear older than they really are. 

Fun fact: The study contains 14 hidden compartments that are accessed by catch levers. The Captain concealed books, important documents and cigars in his humidor. 

The oil painting over the fireplace, Plowing in Saxony by Richard Lorenz, is thought to have reminded Pabst of the village where he was born. 

The elaborately carved cabinets held secret compartments.

The window features “breath of life” marks left by the glass blower.

A small secondary desk in the study

The leaded glass windows are composed of uniform panes spun into circular shapes known as rondels. Because they’re mouth-blown and produced one at a time, each disk has a slightly irregular pontil mark left behind from the detachment of the blowpipe that’s referred to as the breath of life. 

On top of the desk is a copy of a letter written by Captain Pabst in 1899 to his children. It was included with his will, and I found the following passages to be particularly moving:

“Be generous and unselfish to each other in case of need, and above all, be honest and noble in all your dealings, not only with each other, but with the World. 

I want you to always have a good name. It is better than riches, and your greatest happiness will come from the knowledge of doing right.”

The ceiling panels of the study were painted by Louis Mayer, who ingeniously used different-colored stains to emulate the appearance of inlaid wood. Be sure to look up at the wood coffered ceiling with hand-painted panels inscribed with German proverbs.

The archway under the stairs held a telephone closet.

Step Up: The Grand Staircase Hall

Pabst embraced new technology: The home had its own telephone room, which is located in a small closet beneath the grand staircase. 

My mom, who Wally and I call Mima, remarked that she thought it was where Harry Potter lived, a reference to the cupboard under the stairs where the beloved boy wizard was forced to stay with his aunt and uncle, which made Roxie laugh. 

A cattle skull detail on the landing, looking down at the first floor.

The Pabst home was filled with statues and paintings.

The finials that adorn each of the grand staircase’s nine newel posts were cleverly designed to replicate hops buds. A stained glass skylight tops the stairwell and fills it with natural light. 

The landings at Pabst Mansion served as rooms themselves. And check out the stained glass doorway to granddaughter Elspeth’s room!

The Sum of Its Arts: Second Floor Foyer 

We ascended the staircase and stopped on the second floor. This is where several of the family’s bedrooms are located.  

Roxie had mentioned earlier that Captain Pabst was a humble man who never forgot where he came from. This is evident in the artwork he and Maria collected. The painting Farewell to the Homeland by Wilhelm Koller depicts immigrants on a ship about to set sail, most likely on their way to America. A few of the subjects are looking back in despair, not knowing where they were going, while others are sharing a drink and are expressing a sense of hope. 

Emma had quite the setup, with a desk and vanity in her bedroom.

Austen-tacious: Emma’s Pabsts Regal Bedroom 

The first bedroom we toured belonged to daughter Emma, who lived in the mansion until 1897, when she married. Her room is decorated in the Regency style, which is reflected in the ormolu swag and tassel design on the fireplace mantle. The motif is repeated in the wall coverings, which were replicated for the room. If you look closely, the design depicts what appears to be swans drinking from a fountain. 

Emma’s room is the only one in the home that has all of the original bathroom fixtures and the fanciest toilet tank I’ve ever seen — it has an embossed and gilt laurel wreath and garland motif. The tub, with its oak rim, had been removed and relocated to the basement by the archdiocese. 

The Pabsts weren’t scared of mixing patterns, we’ll give them that!

Our group paused in front of a portrait of eldest daughter, Elizabeth Pabst von Ernst. Roxie told us about her tragic passing: During construction of the home, Elizabeth became ill after the birth of her daughter, Emma Marie, and died six months later from appendicitis. She was only 26 years old. Rumor has it that the Pabsts blamed her death on her husband, the German painter Otto von Ernst. 

Roxie went on to tell us that the Pabsts approached their son-in-law to discuss Emma Marie, their granddaughter: “Look, we would like to adopt her,” they said. “We feel that we can provide her with a better life and would like to make sure that she receives the inheritance that her mother would have gotten.” Otto agreed. Captain Pabst gave him $10,000, told him to leave, and he did. After the proceedings had taken place, her name was changed from Emma Marie to Elsbeth in remembrance of her mother, Elizabeth. 

It seems a bit strange to have a large portrait of yourself as a focal point in your bedroom, but hey. That’s a painting of Elsbeth Pabst by Caesar Phillip in the young girl’s bedroom.

True Blue: Elsbeth’s Room

Elsbeth was the only small child to grow up in the Pabst Mansion, and she was spoiled accordingly — she was given the most elaborately decorated room in the home. It’s richly ornamented in Rococo style and includes carved pilasters, silk wall coverings and a Venetian glass chandelier. Her room was further enhanced with a fine hand-painted frieze of floral wreaths and ribbons.

Roxie tells our group about Elspeth, whose father was paid off so she could live in the Pabst Mansion.

Fun fact: During restoration of the bathroom, Dave Strickland, the owner of Affiliated Artists, removed 11 layers of paint and made the discovery that the walls had originally been painted a light blue. While that color is now paired with baby boys, it used to be the opposite: Blue was for girls, and, believe it or not, pink was for boys.  

That’s a portrait of Maria Pabst above the fireplace in her sitting room.

A Cozy Retreat: Maria’s Sitting Room 

Maria’s sitting room is more casual than the opulent bedrooms of Emma and Elsbeth. With its floral wallpaper, cherry woodwork and comfortable furniture, it provided a retreat where the lady of the house could read and attend to her correspondence. 

The raised platform was where Maria would try on dresses — and do needlepoint when she had insomnia.

Roxie informed us that Mrs. Pabst suffered from insomnia. Unlike Wally, who conks immediately after putting on an audiobook, Maria would often get up in the middle of the night and come into the sitting room to do needlepoint. 

The sitting room for Captain Pabst is, honestly, pretty unimpressive compared to the other family members’.

Separate Beds: The Master Bedroom 

Roxie pointed out that the master bedroom had two double beds on either side of the room. This prompted the following conversation:

Wally: So they slept in separate beds?

Roxie: But you know they got together sometime, right?

Wally: Well, they did have 10 kids!

A curious piece of art now hangs in the room that was taken from the brewery office of Captain Pabst. The painting features children as the main subjects and is titled The Art of Brewing by Hermann Michalowski. In it, alarmingly young kids are shown drinking beer. Roxie explained to us that the artist’s intent was to depict the purity of the product, and of course children are traditionally viewed as good and kind. 

Be sure to check out The Art of Brewing by Hermann Michalowski to see depictions of toddlers boozin’ it up.

Why was Erik Heyl, Lisette’s grandson, painted wearing a dress? Roxie told us that it made it easier for kids to go to the bathroom before they were potty trained. 

Fun fact: Marie’s steamer trunk was returned to the Pabst Mansion after it was picked up from a collector who found it sitting on the curb outside of the private men’s hangout, the Milwaukee Club. The institution had been decluttering and was unaware that the unassuming trunk belonged to the famous beer baron’s wife. It’s marked MP on the top and M. Pabst on the bottom. 

The third floor landing

Troubles of the Pabst

At this point, Roxie pointed out that every family has problems, and for Captain and Mrs. Pabst, one was their eldest son, Gustave. In the summer of 1892, he met the freshly divorced Shakespearian actress Margret Mather. The pair fell madly in love and eloped. It wasn’t long before Captain and Mrs. Pabst found out, and they were not pleased. 

Three years later, the couple was seen arguing. A piece circulated in the national news reporting that Margret chased after and struck Gustave with a horsewhip. Although both parties denied this publicly, their marriage ended shortly thereafter. At the time, it was the largest divorce settlement in Wisconsin: Margret received $30,000 from Captain Pabst to not contest the suit. She took the money, and in 1898 she staged her theatrical comeback in a production of Cybelline, collapsed onstage in the middle of a performance and died later that evening. 

The servants had a tiny table — but they had some pretty Delft tiles to admire.

Rewarding Hard Work: The Servants Dining Room

The final room on the tour was the servants dining room. A mutual respect existed between Captain Pabst and his staff, which is reflected in the servants quarters. Their dining room includes hand-painted delft tile featuring idyllic scenes. The stenciled frieze along the top of the wall mimics the motif of the three tulips in the tile work. 

The Captain was known for his work ethic — evident in the motivational saying in a stained glass window here: Guter Mut ist halbe Arbeit (A good attitude is half the work).

A vignette in the kitchen

Saving Grace: Reacquiring Furnishings 

Thanks to a number of donors, the museum has managed to reacquire many of the original furnishings, artwork, glassware and ephemera that were part of the Pabst family’s personal effects. 

Early on, the WHI negotiated with the Archdiocese of Milwaukee to purchase three rooms of furniture that originally filled the principal rooms on the first floor. Many of these pieces were slated to be auctioned off and were saved by supporters, who aided by purchasing one chair or table at a time. 

Over the years, many more original items have been returned, helping in the effort to restore the home to its original state. 

Adult tickets are $12, and docent-led tours are about 75 minutes long. I encourage anyone with an interest in a glimpse into a bygone era, architecture, art or learning more about the Pabst legacy to visit. Help preserve an impressive landmark building. –Duke

The Pabst Mansion

2000 West Wisconsin Avenue 
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
USA

 

West Rose: Ellicottville, New York’s Chicest Spot

The buzzy and Instagrammable West Rose restaurant in Eville is more than just a pretty face. Known for their wood-fired pizza, you should also check out the noodle shop upstairs.

West Rose, famous for its wood-fired pizzas and stylish aesthetic, has definitely taken Ellicottville’s food scene up a notch.

When Wally and I visit my family in the charming Western New York burg of Ellicottville, we always make it a point to wander Washington Street, the main thoroughfare of shops and restaurants. We’ve watched its evolution over the years and couldn’t help but notice the newish standout restaurant West Rose. 

Our visits tend to be short, so we weren’t able to check it out until this past fall. When we mentioned wanting to make sure we finally got to experience West Rose for ourselves, my sister suggested that Wally and I go for brunch. She had us at “breakfast pizza.”

“My sister suggested we go to West Rose for brunch.
She had us at “breakfast pizza.”
”

It was a Sunday and we had made reservations for 10 a.m., in hopes of beating the brunch rush. When we arrived, the front bar was already hopping with families.  

The front bar provides additional seating.

A (West) Rose by Any Other Name 

Something Wally and I noticed before even stepping foot into the restaurant was their strong brand identity. The subdued color palette uses dusty rose, gold, gray-green and yellow-ochre to great effect throughout. Upon entering the bright, airy space I admired the stylized brushed brass rose inlay in the white and gray marble tiled floor. 

A nice detail on the floor by the entrance

Wally suddenly thought he had a eureka moment: “West Rose! Westeros!” he exclaimed, alluding to the fictitious continent in the popular series Game of Thrones. 

However, we later learned from co-owner Caryn Dujanovich that it doesn’t have any connection to GoT, and is in fact a nod to where it’s located: Western New York, combined with her daughter's name, Louise Rose. And you’ve gotta admit, it’s got a nice ring to it. 

Three years into running the Grange Community Kitchen, a restaurant in nearby Hamburg, Brad Rowell and his business partner Caryn were approached by a couple of regular guests from Ellicottville who incidentally own the building that West Rose inhabits — and, as they say, the rest is history. 

“We had a great staff at the Grange and felt confident that we would be able to maintain the same level of quality there while offering some employees opportunities to advance in the company,” Caryn explains. “We were able to make our Grange sous chef, Anthony Petrilli, a partner in West Rose. He creates the menus and runs the kitchen.”

The interior is chic and clean — mostly white and light wood, with pops of the brand’s colors.

The Design: Getting Hygge With It 

The vision for the restaurant’s interior aesthetic was led by Caryn and embodies a cozy Scandinavian vibe, which suits the charming town of Ellicottville. Eville, as it’s affectionately known among locals, started as a ski town but has become an all-season destination with a variety of outdoor activities, including hiking, golf, horseback riding and Sky High Adventure Park, the largest zipline and aerial course in New York state.

Wally’s glad his in-laws live in such a charming, quirky town. (He’s says it reminds him of Stars Hollow from Gilmore Girls.)

Time-worn details like the exposed ceiling, wood floors and brick walls are complemented by industrial and natural textures. Elements such as brushed brass, cognac-colored leather, marble and white plaster, pair seamlessly with yam-colored velvet, terrazzo and beechwood. 

“We wanted the space to have a warm interior with a focus on texture,” Caryn says. “We are always mindful of making sure we won’t get sick of the design in five years!”

Hand-painted murals by Julie Molloy, art director at Block Club, the Buffalo-based agency behind the branding and identity of West Rose, enlivens the second floor space. 

We stopped in for brunch and had the breakfast pizza, topped with bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and chili-infused maple syrup.

The Food: American Cuisine Elevated 

The menu changes regularly to reflect the freshest available ingredients from local producers and farms.  

“After considering seasonality, we then decide what dishes fit the vibe and theme of the restaurant,” Caryn tells us. 

You’ll find items like cheeseburgers, cioppino, kale Caesar salads and crispy chicken on the menu — but the wood-fired pizzas are the star of the show. 

The restaurant’s use of geometric shapes and a captivating color palette instantly drew our attention.

Wally and I  were seated across from the kitchen bar, which is perhaps the most special part of the restaurant, as it features a wood-fired oven imported from Naples, Italy. We had quite the show: I tried unsuccessfully to capture a chef expertly tossing and spinning pizza dough. 

We ordered and shared a savory breakfast pizza topped with bacon, egg, cheddar cheese, scallions and chili-infused maple syrup — washed down with a couple of spicy Bloody Marys, of course. 

West Rose Upstairs has become a noodle shop and cocktail bar.

Using Their Noodles

Be sure to check out the second floor of the restaurant, which features a lounge and ramen bar. 

“The noodle bar concept was actually not what we originally had in mind for that space!” Caryn explains. “That area of the building was left unfinished when the restaurant was first built, and after two years, we decided it would be a good time to make use of the space.” 

The original plan was to offer an easy-to-execute menu of upscale bar food items, including fancy hot dogs, focaccia pizza and cheese plates. 

“Our chef and manager Mark decided to try something different and made a drunken noodle bowl to put on the menu,” Caryn continues. “This became by far our most popular item, and since Mark is a talented chef, who is able to create and execute a full noodle bar concept, we decided to go in a new direction!”

If noodles aren’t your thing, though, you can order snacks such as smoked spiced Marcona almonds, housemade focaccia or marinated olives. 

Both spaces are open for dinner Thursday through Sunday, and brunch on weekends. 

“The best part of running a restaurant is working with our team to create memorable experiences for our guests on a nightly basis,” Caryn says. 

If you’re in Eville, stop in and see for yourself. 

And be sure to check out their newest project, Wayland Brewing Company in Orchard Park. –Duke

West Rose

23 Washington Street
Ellicottville, New York 

 

The Turbulent History of Daufuskie Island

Once home to many Gullah families, this South Carolina Sea Island has a rich history, including the Yamasee War in Bloody Point and the once-thriving Daufuski Oysters business.

A wedding at the Union Baptist Church. Daufuskie Island was once home to hundreds of Gullah — but only 12 or so remain today.

Part of Daufuskie’s charm lies in its unspoiled landscape. Gnarled limbs of old growth live oaks dripping with Spanish moss. Outlying marshes of Spartina grass rustling in the wind. Many of its roads are still unpaved, which is one of the reasons we were unable to visit last year due to heavy rainfall. 

The South Carolina Sea Island, situated between Hilton Head Island and Savannah, Georgia, has many dilapidated historic properties — but there are also a couple of newer gated communities, including the upscale Haig Point and Bloody Point, which are strictly off limits to non-residents. The island was once mostly populated by Gullah, African American descendants of slaves living in South Carolina (and called Geechee in Georgia). Nowadays, less than a third of the homes on Daufuskie are owned by the original Gullah families — and only 12 or so Gullah actually still live there. 

“The Yamasee War was a massacre, as native weaponry was no match for European firepower — which is how the neighborhood Bloody Point got its name. ”

Chief Tamochichi, with his nephew, of the Yamacraw, a native tribe composed of Creek and Yamasee. (Incidentally, when Pat Conroy wrote about Daufuskie in this memoir, The Water Is Wide, he changed the island’s name to Yamacraw (but he wasn’t fooling anybody.)

The First Inhabitants: A Deal With Spain

In the 1500s, the Muscogee (aka Creek) native tribe encountered the invading Spaniards, who claimed the Atlantic coast spanning from St. Augustine, Florida to Charleston, South Carolina. However, when they stopped on Daufuskie, they decided that this wasn’t an ideal place to start a new colony. They left a few Iberian horses known as the Carolina Marsh Tacky and made a deal with the Muscogees. If the natives were to fend off any other Europeans looking to colonize the area, the Spaniards would back them up with military support and pay them in gold. 

Despite the Spanish promising they’d help the Native Americans fend off other European invaders, they abandoned them to the British.

The Yamasee War: How Bloody Point Got Its Name

Time passed, and the next two centuries had little effect on the natives, until the English established a colony on Daufuskie. Suffice to say, the Spanish didn’t keep their word in offering support and were nowhere to be found. 

Inevitably, conflict arose, in part because the British settlers believed it was their sovereign right to claim the land. And while the indigenous Muscogee and Yemassee traded food, animal hides and local knowledge for knives, copper kettles and beads, the exchange rate wasn’t deemed fair. 

Tomahawks and bows were no match for the British army’s guns. The Yamasee War resulted in the slaughter of the indigenous people.

This prompted the Yamasee, who inhabited the nearby coastal region of Georgia, to join the Creek in attacking the British settlers. The raids turned into massacres, as native weaponry was no match for European firepower — which is how the neighborhood Bloody Point got its name. 

A small one-room wooden home known as a single pen house on Daufuskie

The Rise of Slave Labor 

After the war ended, English settlers cleared the island of vegetation to cultivate crops. They also divided the island into 11 plantations. According to our guide Ryland, with Tour Daufuskie, it was so thoroughly cleared, it was said that you could see from one end of Daufuskie to the other — a depressing fact given that the island is five miles long and two and a half miles wide. 

The British brought slaves from the Rice Coast of West Africa as well as Central Africa. European settlers relied on the skills of the enslaved to cultivate rice, cotton and indigo, resulting in some of the wealthiest antebellum plantations in the South. 

Over time, the enslaved Africans developed a dialect also called Gullah. The vocabulary and grammatical roots came from English and African languages. Isolated from the mainland, the Gullah maintained African traditions, culture and religion. Gullah is a living language that’s still spoken in the region. 

The Uncle Remus stories, including the tales of Brer Rabbit, were written in Gullah.

The British tried growing rice and sugarcane — crops that had flourished on nearby Hilton Head. But because Daufuskie is at a higher altitude, its ground-water levels were too low to sustain these lucrative crops for export. 

Indigo was the first profitable commercial crop and a significant part of the economy for about 50 years, followed by Sea Island cotton. The indigo plant was grown to produce a royal blue dye that was exported to England. “If it had ‘royal’ in the name, they were gonna buy it,” Ryland said.

The spongey palmetto logs used to build Fort Moultrie helped absorb cannon fire from the British armada.

Why South Carolina Is the Palmetto State

Throughout the Revolutionary War, South Carolina remained loyal to England. Part of this was an economic motivation: The colonists believed their defeat would end the demand for indigo. However, as the British fleet got closer, the settlers realized it didn’t matter whether or not they were loyalists; they would still be attacked. 

To defend Charleston harbor, the colonists built Fort Moultrie on Sullivan’s Island from the palmetto, or cabbage palm. The name cabbage palm comes from the fact that the heart of the palm can be eaten raw or can be cooked into what was known by early settlers as swamp cabbage. 

Palmetto isn’t a traditional type of wood. It’s soft, doesn’t splinter and is almost sponge-like due to its high water content. Fort Moultrie had two walls of palmetto logs and sand, a combination that worked well at absorbing cannonballs fired at it by British ships. This unique wood helped save South Carolina, which became the Palmetto State, and the tree now has a place of honor on the state flag. 

After the war ended, England did indeed stop importing indigo from South Carolina. They basically said, if you’re not part of our kingdom, we don’t want your indigo. The crown had a new colony in India, and to this day, India is the world’s top producer of indigo. 

However, England did continue to purchase Sea Island cotton because it was just rare enough that they couldn’t be very picky about where they got it from. Freed slaves who lived on the island grew cotton through the Civil War, until fields were ruined by the boll weevil. 

Out Back Daufuskie Way by Alexandra Sharma

From Reparations to Sharecropping

Union forces captured Daufuskie in 1861. Their main job was to keep track of the ships going in and out of the Savannah River and ensure that no weapons, food or ammunition reached the Southern states. Plantation owners fled, leaving behind their property as well as their elderly slaves, who weren’t deemed worth the expense to relocate.

After the Emancipation Proclamation, Daufuskie was home to a large population of freed slaves who had worked on the island’s plantations. As a form of reparation, slaves received 40 acres and a mule, land abandoned by White colonists throughout the South. 

However, President Andrew Johnson intervened, ordering most of the land to be returned to its former owners. Despite having settled the land, the Gullah on Daufuskie had to switch to sharecropping, a system where the landowner allowed use of the land in exchange for crops. The situation wasn’t unlike serfdom, tying the Gullah to the land and trapping them into high debts.  

The oyster industry employed Daufuskie residents in its heyday. When the oyster beds were polluted from a nearby paper mill, most islanders left — never to return.

Aw Shucks: When the World Was Their Oyster

Indigo and cotton weren’t the only lucrative industries on the island. L.P. Maggioni & Company established an oyster cannery on Daufuskie in 1894 and employed many Gullah men, women and even children. Containers with the distinctive profile of an Indian chief on its label can be seen in the Daufuskie Island History Museum.  

Gullah men went out on the water in bateaux, flat-bottomed wooden boats, during low tide to pluck up all the oysters they could haul back. It was the women who shucked the oysters, though — up to 7 to 9 gallons a day. 

While the men went out in the boats to gather oysters, it was women (and children) who had to shuck them all.

Even though the local cannery closed in the 1950s, you can still get Daufuski Brand Oysters — they just come from Korea now.

There was a cannery on the island from 1898 to 1956. Around that time, wood pulp waste from a paper mill on the Savannah River polluted the water and contaminated the oyster beds. With the closing of the factory, most families left for better opportunities in nearby Savannah. 

Daufuski Oysters are still available — they’re just harvested in Korea.

Some of the Gullah homes on Daufuskie are available as vacation rentals as part of a program to preserve them.

Heirs’ Properties on Daufuskie 

As we drove around the island in a golf cart, we noticed wood-framed homes sitting among the vegetation in varying states of disrepair. We asked Ryland about them, and he informed us that they’re historic Gullah homes known as oyster cottages. Referred to as “heirs’ properties,” these homes are passed down from generation to generation without legal documentation. Most Gullah never returned to Daufuskie, but all heirs have the same claim to the property, whether or not they live on it, pay taxes on it or have ever set foot on it. Because so many people can be involved, it’s tough to sell or restore one of the homes since everyone must agree on the course of action. As a result, many of the oyster cottages have become dilapidated. 

Enter the nonprofit Palmetto Trust for Historic Preservation (now Preservation South Carolina), which developed the Daufuskie Endangered Places Program in 2011. The initiative was funded in part through a grant provided by the 1772 Foundation, an organization whose mission is to preserve historic properties. The trust’s first project was to restore the Frances Jones House. 

It’s a cool program: Descendants retain ownership under a long-term lease with the preservation group. Restored cottages are available as vacation rentals. Once the lease is paid off, the homes revert back to the heirs. By staying on Daufuskie Island, you’re helping preserve its history. 

The haunted-looking Melrose Resort on Daufuskie, long abandoned after its owners swindled investors out of millions and declared bankruptcy.

Financial Fraud at Melrose Landing 

In the modern era, Daufuskie has developed some high-end gated communities. But even the best-laid plans can go awry. Case in point: Melrose Landing. The namesake resort was developed in the 1980s and included an inn, beach cottages, a Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course and a ferry landing.

The resort was purchased in 2011 by Utah-based developer Pelorus Group, which, over eight years, proceeded to defraud its investors. The real estate firm ran a dubious Ponzi-like scheme, including wire and tax fraud, using $1.8 million of investor money for personal use without disclosing any of it to the IRS. The vacation property first filed for bankruptcy in 2009 and again in 2017, when the firm’s managing partner, James Thomas Bramlette, was indicted. In the end, the Pelorus Group owed creditors about $35 million. The derelict resort is currently seeking an investor willing to put up $19 million in cash. Any takers?

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The following photos were taken by Jeanne Moutoussamy-Ashe from 1977 to 1982. At the time, less than 85 permanent residents lived in the 50-some homes on Daufuskie. The island’s amenities consisted of a co-op store, a two-room school, a nursery, a church and two active cemeteries.

An Old Woman Sitting at a Table in Her Home by Jeanne Moutoussamy-Ashe

Susie Sanding Next to a Holy Picture in Her Living Room by Jeanne Moutoussamy-Ashe

A Shrimper and His Son by Jeanne Moutoussamy-Ashe

Boiling Crab by Jeanne Moutoussamy-Ashe

Daufuskie’s Rich but Tragic History: Hope for the Future

Daufuskie has a turbulent history: bloody battles, mistreatment of slaves, the lost oyster industry. It once bustled with activity and commerce, but now few Gullah people remain. In fact, much of the island is home to wealthy White residents living in private gated communities such as Haig Point and Bloody Point. 

But by learning about and visiting the island, we can help preserve a vibrant heritage. And thanks to Preservation South Carolina and others like them, future generations of Gullah families might someday be able to return to the island. –Duke

 

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Check out those sideburns on Conroy!

READ ON: Daufuskie Island Tour: Learn about bestselling author Pat Conroy’s connection to the island, see the historic sites and meet some local artisans.

Daufuskie Island History and Artisan Tour

Hop in a golf cart and see the real-life Yamacraw Island, South Carolina, including the school where author Pat Conroy taught and the history museum, with stops at Daufuskie Soap Company and the Iron Fish. And stop by the Old Daufuskie Crab Company before catching the Daufuskie Island Ferry back to the mainland.

Daufuskie doesn’t have a bridge to the mainland, so your only option to visit is by boat.

For years, Wally and I have wanted to visit Daufuskie. The remote southernmost Sea Island is tucked away between Hilton Head, South Carolina and Savannah, Georgia. 

What was the appeal? The small island retains the rich history of the Gullah-Geechee people, descendants of West and Central African slaves brought to the region and forced to work on Lowcountry plantations. It also boasts a small but thriving makers community — but I’ll get to that later.  

There’s no bridge connecting Daufuskie to the mainland, and the only way to reach it is by ferry or water taxi. Last year, rain prevented us from going, and before that it was closed to tourism due to the coronavirus pandemic. 

A day trip to Daufuskie is a good excuse to get out on the water. The Daufuskie Island Ferry leaves from this dock by a distinctive failed restaurant just over the bridge from Hilton Head.

This December we booked a guided History and Artisans Tour with local operator Tour Daufuskie and took the 45-minute ferry ride from Buckingham Landing just off of Hilton Head. Roundtrip rides cost $50 per person. 

Gullahs, descendants of slaves, once made up most of the population of Daufuskie. Now few remain. Their cemeteries were by the water so their spirits could travel back to Africa.

What Daufuskie?! 

According to local lore, Daufuskie got its name from the Gullah “Da Fus Cay,” meaning “the first key (or island).” However, we were disappointed to learn that the name actually comes from the island’s first inhabitants, the Muscogee, or Creek, Indians. In their language, daufa means “feather” and fuskie “pointed.” Combine the two, and you have something that translates to “Pointed Feather,” a reference to the island’s distinctive shape. 

Once Wally and I disembarked at Freeport Marina, we met our guide Ryland, who was waiting for us at the end of the boardwalk. We were provided with golf carts and given a quick tutorial on how to use them. There are very few cars on the island. Golf carts and bikes are the preferred modes of transportation.

At the first stop, Ryland told us a bit about the island’s history. Ancient piles of oyster shells, and artifacts such as pottery fragments and arrowheads left by the indigenous Muscogee and Yemasse tribes were discovered by archaeologists on Daufuskie — with some dating as far back as 7000 BCE. 

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RELATED: The Sea Pines Shell Ring Mystery

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This old schoolhouse now serves as the first stop on a tour of the history of Daufuskie — and acts as the community’s library.

An Education at the Jane Hamilton School

Our tour began at the Jane Hamilton School, part of the Billie Burn Museum complex. The one-room schoolhouse was built in the late 1930s using blueprints provided by Julius Rosenwald, head of the Sears, Roebuck and Company mail order empire. Rosenwald was a philanthropist who met renowned educator and prominent African American thought leader Booker T. Washington and recognized the need for educational facilities for disadvantaged Southern Black children. This sparked a transformative collaboration between the pair, and a program emerged to construct modest educational buildings, which later became known as Rosenwald Schools.

Kids used to go to school here until 5th grade, when they’d have to work their family’s farm full time.

The Jane Hamilton School provided education from kindergarten to 5th grade. As this was built at the tail end of the Great Depression, Rosenwald was unable to provide the raw materials required to build the facility. It was financed using money raised by the island community and erected by local craftsmen and workers employed by the government-funded Works Progress Administration (WPA) — with some help from the children themselves. 

The school year started in September and ended in March, Ryland informed us. Most Gullah families could not afford to send their children to the mainland to continue their education. Once they completed 5th grade, they were expected to work on the family farm full time. (This prompted some kids to purposely fail to prolong their education, according to our guide.) Today the former school is home to the Gullah Learning Center and the community library. 

The Daufuskie Island History Museum was once a Baptist church.

An Alligator and Gullah Bible at the Daufuskie Island History Museum

The next stop was Mount Carmel Baptist Church Number 2, so named because the first was destroyed by a hurricane in 1940. It’s now home to the Daufuskie Island History Museum. Among the artifacts on display are a taxidermied 11.5-foot alligator, a 19th century Gullah Bible, Indian arrowheads and a restored 1890s pump organ. The museum also has a nook that sells books about the island’s history. 

Wally poses by Al, the taxidermied alligator on display.

The history museum has a jumble of artifacts, including a charming pump organ and a Bible written in Gullah. Here’s John 3:16: “Cause God lob all de people een de wol sommuch dat e gii we e onliest Son.”

Sarah Hudson Grant’s Buggy: A Labor of Love

Our final stop in the museum complex was a small structure sheltering the one-horse buggy of Sarah Hudson Grant. When women went into labor on Daufuskie, they would ask for Mrs. Grant aka Granny to come. She became a midwife in 1932 and was married to the island’s undertaker. When he died in 1962, she stepped in and took his place. Grant charged $5 to deliver a baby or $10 to deliver a baby and do a week’s worth of laundry after. 

The horse-drawn carriage used by legendary midwife Sarah Hudson Grant was restored by Amish craftsmen (who painted it black, which they felt was much more proper than red).

Over a 37-year period, Grant “grannied” 130 babies on Daufuskie without losing one — and as the undertaker, she was the last to bid farewell to many. The Gullah said, “Granny bring ’em ’n she tek ’em away.”

With no medical instruments or doctors on the island, locals would holler from one property to another to alert her as to who was going into labor and where — at which point, she would hook her horse Tillman up to the carriage and hurry off to deliver the baby.

Ryland told us that electricity didn’t reach the island until the 1950s, with the first telephone following two decades later, in 1973.

Grant retired in 1969. 

Billie Burn Museum Complex
44 Old Haig Point Road 

The local Baptist Church is the oldest original building on Daufuskie and has been restored twice.

You Gotta Have Faith: The First Union African Baptist Church

The First Union African Baptist Church was built in 1884 and is the oldest original building on the island. It has served as a place of worship and faith for over a century and was built on the grounds of the former Mary Fields cotton plantation.

The structure has had two major facelifts. The first was in 1952, when the island received electricity. Fixtures were converted from gas to electric, and the second was in 1982, when the foundation was reinforced, as over time the structure had begun to slowly sink into the ground. Even today you can still notice a tilt to the walls and doors.

To become a member of the parish, you had to go on a spirit quest into the woods to commune with God.

When the parish was first established, it wasn’t a traditional church, where you could simply show up and attend. You would have to go to the church leaders and tell them you were interested in joining the congregation. They would instruct you to find a quiet place in the woods to pray, and while there, you would hopefully receive a message from God. You’d report back, and a spirit guide would be summoned to interpret your vision. If they weren’t convinced, you’d have to try again, because God (and the church) wasn’t quite ready for you. 

Members of the congregation had assigned seating. Men sat on one side and women on the other. The church was the head of the community, in charge of law enforcement, finances and school openings. If you did something that made the community angry, you would be seated in the back, so that everybody knew you were being scorned.

The Praise House on the grounds of the church was a gathering place for slaves, where religious services were held.

Praise You at the Praise House

Tucked to the side of the First Union African Baptist Church stands a simple, weathered wood structure. It’s a reproduction of the original “praise house” that stood there for more than a century. These structures were intentionally built small to prevent large gatherings of slaves, as plantation owners feared that they could easily be overthrown or killed. 

When the house was open, the deacon or worship leader would stand on the top step or in the doorway, and most slaves would gather to sit outside on the grass. Those members of the congregation inside the praise house would rhythmically stomp upon the wooden floors, creating a communal drum of sorts. 

Singing was an important element of the services and hymns were often sung in round, a short musical piece in which multiple voices sing the same melody but start the song at different times. Services also included songs known as call and response, where the leader would sing out a phrase that was answered by the congregation. These buildings might have been called praise houses, but because of the cacaphony heard during services, plantation owners referred to them as shout houses.

First Union African Baptist Church
School Road 

Daufuskie Soap Company started out on a porch like other artisan workshops on the island.

Peachy Clean at Daufuskie Soap Company

Part of the tour was to visit local artisans (those makers I mentioned earlier). One of them is Jan Crosby, who makes soap, lotions and other body care products inspired by the scents of the island. Before we entered the shop, Ryland told us it was originally named Daufuskie Peach — a nod to Crosby’s native roots in Georgia. Like most artisans on the island, she started out by creating a workshop on her porch. Tired of people expecting a fruit stand, Crosby has since changed the name. We purchased a bar of sandalwood soap. 

Daufuskie Soap Company
228 School Road

Stop by Daufuskie Blues to see some amazing patterns — and ask for a demonstration.

Indigo Immersion at the Mary Fields School 

A short golf cart ride from the church is the Mary Fields School, where local celebrity Pat Conroy taught schoolchildren in 1969. The historic schoolhouse was built in 1933 and now contains Daufuskie Blues, a shop selling indigo-dyed clothing. 

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RELATED: How Indigo Is Made

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For 20 years, the school had no cafeteria or lunchroom. Eventually one was built in the back, and it’s now School Grounds Coffee. We greatly appreciated the chance to get a caffeine fix on an island that doesn’t offer much in terms of places to eat.

The two-room schoolhouse where Pat Conroy once taught is now an indigo shop, art studio and coffeeshop.

Kindergarten through 3rd grade were taught by Mrs. Brown in one room, and 4th through 8th grade by Frances Jones in the other. When Jones retired in 1969, she was replaced for one year by the late novelist Conroy. Fresh out of grad school, he wanted to come to Daufuskie to teach, inspire and motivate students. But his methods were unconventional — and controversial. He would regularly take students over to the mainland to places like Bluffton, Savannah and even Washington, D.C. At the end of his first year teaching, Conroy was fired. He went on to write an autobiographical book about his time at the Mary Fields School called The Water Is Wide, adapted into a movie starring Jon Voight named Conrack, which is how the Gullah children pronounced Conroy’s name. 

Conroy never returned to teaching, but he did keep in contact with his students and continued to write. Ryland added that even though Conroy was forced out of the school, he made out all right, going on to have a successful literary career, penning bestselling books like The Great Santini and The Prince of Tides.

Daufuskie Indigo
School Grounds Coffee
203 School Road

Chase Allen’s artwork has gotten quite popular and won an American Made award from Martha Stewart Living.

Reeling in Art at the Iron Fish

Our final stop was the Iron Fish, where a whimsical menagerie of fish, mermaids, stingrays and other coastal creatures fashioned from distressed sheet metal are displayed in the open-air gallery owned by artist Chase Allen. 

Allen has an outdoor workshop on the island.

Payment is on the honor system.

Allen asks patrons to pay by the “honor system”: Leave a check in the box on his front porch or make a mobile payment through Zelle. 

The Iron Fish 
168 Benjies Point Road 

The Old Daufuskie Crab Company has a great outdoor space — but it was too cold to enjoy when we visited in December. It’s one of only a couple of restaurants that stay open all year.

Lunch Stop at Old Daufuskie Crab Company

Our two-hour tour wrapped at 1 p.m., so Wally and I wanted to grab some lunch before catching the 2:30 ferry back to the mainland. We decided it’d be best to get back by the harbor, so we stopped into the Old Daufuskie Crab Company. We ordered beers and a basket of spicy shrimp — but passed on the “scrap iron,” an Arnold Palmer-esque cocktail made with moonshine. 

Old Daufuskie Crab Company
256 Cooper River Landing Road

Ryland, with Tour Daufuskie, was a storehouse of interesting local knowledge. The poor guy is only one of a few people his age on the island.

A visit to Daufuskie is a great day trip if you’re in the Hilton Head or Bluffton area. You get to be on the water, tool around in golf carts and learn some fascinating Gullah history. And you couldn’t hope for a better guide than Ryland. We enjoyed spending time with him and were impressed with his knowledge of the island. While the weather was a bit cold on our visit in December, we were happy to finally have made it to Daufuskie. We’ll be back. –Duke

 

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RELATED: Gullah History of Hilton Head

An Insider’s Guide to Nantucket

Are you looking for things to do in Nantucket, Massachusetts? We cover the popular tourist attractions like the Whaling Museum and Brant Point Lighthouse as well as some of this charming island’s best-kept secrets — an icon of Mister Rogers, anyone? Also: the best Nantucket restaurants. 

For some strange reason, the Wampanoag Native Americans who lived on Nantucket gave it a name that alludes to it being a distant, desolate place. According to Britannica, it could even mean “sandy, sterile soil tempting no one”!

From stunning natural landscapes and beaches to must-see historical landmarks and quirky interior spaces, Nantucket, Massachusetts has it all. 

Here are my insider tips on the gems of Nantucket, an island in the Atlantic about 30 miles south of Cape Cod.

The island of Nantucket is 30 miles off the south coast of Cape Cod. It’s 14 miles long and three and a half miles wide.

Quick Tips for a Hassle-Free Nantucket Vacation

Keep in mind that this could be an expensive getaway: Things can be a bit pricey on the island.

One of the best ways to experience the Nantucket lifestyle is to rent a home during your stay.

Be sure to book your accommodation in advance, especially during the peak summer season. Vacation rental homes are a great option to get a feel for how locals live.

Why bring your car over when you can reach everything on a bike?

Choose your mode of transport. You can get to the island either by plane or ferry. Once there, I’ve found that the most satisfactory way to tour this exquisite island is by bike. Of course, you can bring your car, but it’ll cost you about $400-$450 to do so. I suggest renting a bike at Nantucket Bike Shop. Cycling is a great way to see the sights and exercise at the same time. Besides, there are numerous bike trails on the island.

8 Top Attractions on Nantucket

Nantucket is home to many gems, including secluded beaches, secret gardens and hidden coves. Here are my favorite spots:

Greater Light, a historic home in Nantucket, has become a cultural center and wedding venue.

1. Greater Light

Gertrude and Hanna Monaghan, two artistic sisters, had come to Nantucket because of its growing creative community. In the summer of 1929, the Monaghan sisters were taking in the city's vibrant art scene when they stumbled upon a herd of cattle. They followed the herd until it took a U-turn at Howard Street and entered a 140-year-old barn. The siblings were fascinated with the dilapidated structure. They discovered it was owned by the town grocer, William Holland, and they convinced him to sell it to them. 

The siblings named the barn Greater Light after the Bible verse Genesis 1:16: “God made two great lights — the greater light to govern the day and the lesser light to govern the night.” They began turning the barn into a light-filled summer home and filled it with architectural artifacts and an eclectic mix of furnishings. If you want to experience the emotional vibe of the town, this is the place to be.

Insider’s Tip: Greater Light is accessible to the general public from May to October. It’s a 10-minute walk from the town center. In addition to being a popular wedding venue, numerous events, including book signings, concerts and lectures, are held on the renovated property. For the most current schedule, visit the Nantucket Historical Association website.

Greater Light
8 Howard Street

Could someone just make this man a saint already? The icon of Mister Rogers at St. Paul’s.

2. Mister Rogers Portrait at St. Paul’s Church

Some people would indeed consider Mister Rogers a saint; they’d find it fitting that he’s an idol at St. Paul’s Church. Before he became a beloved children’s television icon, Rogers studied to be a Presbyterian preacher. 

He spent the summers on Nantucket with his family, residing in the Madaket neighborhood on the island's west side. He and his family attended St. Paul’s Episcopal Church on Fair Street. 

A local artist, Julie Dunbar, painted a tribute to Mister Rogers’ legacy as an honored parishioner and a well-known friend to many. Pop into the church, identifiable by its beautiful Tiffany stained glass windows, to see this quirky icon bearing the words “Gentle, Kind + True.”

Insider’s Tip: While the church is open to visitors, check to see if it happens to be closed for exclusive services and activities.

St. Paul’s Epsicopal Church
20 Fair Street

The 46-foot-long skeleton of a sperm whale that died in 1998 hangs from the ceiling. Check out those chompers — a testament to the dangers of the whaling profession.

3. The Whaling Museum

Once known as the whaling capital of the world, Nantucket has a historic whaling district, and the museum is housed in a former whaling captain’s house. The Whaling Museum was established in 1929 and is among the oldest naval museums in the United States. 

The Whaling Museum in Nantucket

Its gallery has a collection of over 1,000 artifacts, including a sperm whale skeleton and a whaleboat. The museum also has a library and archives with over 500 books, maps and manuscripts. 

Insider’s Tip: The museum is open year-round and offers various educational schedules for adults and children. Hopefully you’ll get a guide as colorful as Emily Gilmore on The Gilmore Girls. And be sure to climb the spiral staircase (or take the elevator) up to Tucker’s Roofwalk for a panoramic view of the harbor — where the captain’s wife might once have kept an anxious lookout for the return of her husband’s ship.

The Whaling Museum
13 Broad Street

Brant Point Lighthouse is one of three to see in Nantucket. Look for the American flag on its side.

4. The Lighthouses 

Nantucket has three lovely lighthouses, all of which are well worth a visit:

Brant Point Lighthouse is near the city at the end of Easton Street and is the ideal location to view the sunset or sunrise. Its white stairway and American flag painted on its side make it easy to spot.

Great Point Lighthouse is in a wildlife reserve at the northern tip of the island.

Arriving at Great Point Lighthouse is slightly more complicated since the light is on sandy land. Hire a four-wheel drive if you don’t have one. The trip can be backbreaking, so bring a picnic lunch to eat and get reenergized. 

Sankaty Head Lighthouse stands 70 feet tall at the easternmost point on Nantucket, flashing its light every 7.5 seconds

With its distinctive white and sandy red stripe design, Sankaty Head Lighthouse could be the most outstanding lighthouse on Nantucket. The light is on Baxter Road, but on a clear day, you will see it miles away in every direction. 

Insider’s Tip: The lighthouses are open from  9 a.m. to 6 p.m. all year round. For Great Point, you’ll need an oversand vehicle permit. 

Pay homage to Maria Mitchell by stargazing at the Loines Observatory.

5. Maria Mitchell Association

Maria Mitchell was raised on the island and was a Quaker with a passion for astronomy. She channeled her passions into a spectacular career as America’s first female astronomer. She established the Maria Mitchell Association, Nantucket’s only scientific organization.

The association has plenty to see: an aquarium, the historic 1800s Quaker house Mitchell lived in and a natural science museum, in addition to a series of scientific speakers.

The Historic Mitchell House, where the first female U.S. astronomer lived.

Insider’s Tip: Nantucket has long been famous for its meticulous craft of scrimshaw and historic whaler voyages. But in the 19th century, Mitchell added a curious new chapter to the history of this small island. Honor her legacy by stargazing at the Loines Observatory. The Vestal Street Observatory is currently closed for conservation.

Maria Mitchell Association
33 Washington Street

The Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

6. Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum

The charitable Egan Maritime Institute runs this museum, which shares the stories of local shipwrecks and the brave rescuers who put their lives in danger to save drowning seamen. 

The building, constructed in 1968, features the design of the traditional stations run by the U.S. Life-Saving Service. It’s the earliest museum devoted to maritime lifesaving and safety history. Its hours of operation are Monday to Saturday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m. The entrance fee includes a tour guide.

Insider’s Tip: Keep in mind that Nantucket is a seasonal destination, and many places, like this museum, are only open part of the year, closing in the fall and winter. A 15-minute journey down Polpis Road will take you to the museum, which is three miles east of town. But you can also catch the Shipwreck Shuttle from the visitors bureau at 25 Federal Street every half hour starting at 9:30 a.m., returning from the museum on the hour, with the last ride at 5 p.m.), Monday through Saturday from May 30 through October 10.

Nantucket Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum
158 Polpis Road

You have to get on the water during every stay in Nantucket.

7. The Harbor

When in Nantucket…

Sailing around the harbor is the perfect afternoon pastime and can take you into the evening to enjoy the most splendid sunset in Nantucket. You’ve got plenty of choices: tugboats, larger whale-viewing cruises and swanky schooners. Many offer two-hour rides that head around Brant Point Lighthouse. 

Insider’s Tip: Shearwater Excursions offers the Ice Cream Cruise, where you can enjoy not only a scenic tour but also its namesake treat. But my favorite thing to do is rent a tugboat for the late afternoon, where you can bring cocktails to sip and have some snacks (perhaps a charcuterie board). 

Catch your dinner on a fishing charter into the Atlantic Ocean.

8. Fishing Zones

Nantucket has a large population of game fish, and the best time to go fishing is from May to November. A suitable spot is the south bay between Nantucket Harbor and Great Point. But you can also try your luck near the Sankaty Head Lighthouse. Additionally, the harbor offers dedicated charters for catching large game fish like mahi mahi, marlin and tuna.  

Insider’s Tip: Waves can be intense — even deadly — so make sure you find a pro and ask for the safest times to get on the water. 

Straight Wharf Restaurant

Where to Eat in Nantucket

From fresh seafood to classic New England fare, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on this beautiful island.

For seafood lovers, the Straight Wharf Restaurant is a must-visit. The spot is well known for its fresh, local seafood and harbor views.

Head to the Wauwinet hotel to dine at Topper’s.

Head to Topper’s at the Wauwinet hotel to taste classic New England cuisine. This elegant restaurant is known for its delicious lobster dishes, as well as its stunning views of the ocean. 

Get your New England staples and some good beer at the Nantucket Tap Room at the historic Jared Coffin House.

The Nantucket Tap Room at the Jared Coffin House is an excellent alternative for a more casual dining experience. This historic inn’s tavern offers a cozy atmosphere and classic dishes like clam chowder and fish and chips.

Other good restaurants to try include:

• Millie’s: Seafood

• Cisco Brewers: Great outdoor area for local beers and food trucks

• Cru: Rosé and oysters 

• Provisions: Sandwiches (try the Turkey Terrific or BLT)

• The Downyflake: Doughnuts

• The Juice Bar: Ice cream

Heads up: The popular spot Black-Eyed Susan’s seems to be closed for good. But no matter your mood, you’ll uncover plenty of places to feast in Nantucket.

Smaller than Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket offers a quaint New England getaway.

The Ideal New England Getaway

Nantucket is a small island with a big reputation. It’s a popular summer tourist destination, thanks to its picturesque hangout spots and plenty of outdoor activities. Moreover, the locals are warm and welcoming, guaranteeing you have a great time. As far as I’m concerned, the island is the perfect New England getaway. –Christine Cooper

Graycliff: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Ode to Lake Erie

This impressive estate perched above the water was built for Isabelle Martin and shows the birth of Wright’s organic architecture.

Frank Lloyd Wright built Graycliff, a summer residence for the Martins, from 1926 to 1929 — just in time for the family to lose their great wealth.

Frank Lloyd Wright had to grow on me. Actually, more accurately, I had to experience his work firsthand to develop an appreciation for it. Because, to me at least, his exteriors can seem monolithic, the windows small, the horizontal planes somewhat uninteresting. 

But when you enter one of his homes, it’s like you’ve entered a magical realm — the unassuming wardrobe that opens into the fantastical realm of Narnia, if you will. Wright transports you to another world, a cozy space where nature is invited in, often in surprising ways. You develop a great respect for the thought and vision that went into each of his homes. The environment connects to the site with a palette inspired by, and often using, materials sourced from the immediate area. 

“When the Martins complained about the additions, Wright replied, “You don’t need them — but the house does.””

Our docent, Gail, was extremely knowledgeable about Graycliff and its colorful history.

The Martin Family and the History of Graycliff

Graycliff was the lakeside haven and summer home of Isabelle and Darwin Martin. Darwin was a wealthy executive at the Larkin Soap Company and first met Wright at his Oak Park studio in 1902 to discuss the commission of a Larkin Administration Building. He later commissioned Wright to design and build the home that would become Graycliff. The estate is perched atop a 50-foot bluff overlooking Lake Erie in the town of Derby, New York, about 20 miles south of Buffalo. In the distance, you can see the Point Abino Lighthouse and the Welland Canal in Canada. 

The Larkin Soap Company was a massive mail-order business, and Darwin one of the highest paid executives at the time (worth the equivalent of $40 million nowadays). This accounts for his ability to build not only Graycliff but the family home in Buffalo (known as the Martin House) with Wright — an architect notorious for not letting a budget get in the way of his vision. 

But all of that changed when the stock market crashed in 1929, ushering in the Great Depression. Darwin had heavily invested in a number of his son’s business ventures, including 800 West Ferry, a luxury apartment high-rise in Buffalo. Due to these underperforming investments, the Martins’ fortunes eroded. 

Darwin sustained a series of mild strokes and a more serious episode on December 17, 1935, resulting in his death. 

It was reported that upon hearing of Darwin’s death, Wright stated that he had lost his best friend and most influential patron. Over the years, Darwin loaned Wright approximately $70,000. None of it was ever repaid. 

Isabelle continued to spend summers at Graycliff until about 1941. When she could no longer afford to keep the main house open, she moved into the apartment above the garage in the Foster House, before passing away on February 22, 1945 at the age of 75. 

Wright probably never imagined a modern sculpture sitting on the lawn at Graycliff — but we like to think he’d approve.

Wright’s Vision for Graycliff

Construction of the estate began in 1926 and was a gift from Darwin to Isabelle, upon his retirement from the Larkin Soap Company. The Martins were able to spend their first summer there in 1929, though the grounds weren’t completed until 1931. 

The complex comprises the main house, a sunken boiler house (called the Heat Hut) and the Foster House, originally conceived as the chauffeur’s quarters, so named because it was used as the summer residence of Isabelle’s daughter, Dorothy Martin Foster, her son-in-law, James, and their two children. 

Graycliff is named for the natural feature that forms the overlook it’s perched upon, and despite sounding a bit dour, the house is actually bright and airy. Not only did Wright want to provide views of Lake Erie, he had another reason to fill the house with natural light: Isabelle suffered from scleritis, a condition that causes chronic eye pain and light sensitivity. According to correspondence sent from the Martins to Wright, Isabelle needed a place that was flooded with “light and sunshine” — the opposite of their city home, which was dark and difficult for her to navigate. 

The view of the lake through the home was destroyed for a while when the Piarist priests put their chapel here.

The Piarist Priests: The Other Owners of Graycliff

In the 1950s, the Martin descendants sold the property to the Piarist Fathers, a Roman Catholic teaching order from Hungary. The Piarist edict being education for every child, they formed Calasanctius High School in Buffalo and needed residences for 24 priests and a boarding home for 48 underprivileged students.

When the priests purchased the property, they also needed a chapel to accommodate the large Hungarian community in the area. So they tore out a wall to create a new entrance and replaced the windows of the cantilevered porch with colored glass — thereby cutting off the view of the lake through the house and destroying Wright’s main vision for Graycliff. 

The story goes that when Wright was 91, he visited Graycliff, unannounced, with some protégés. 

The architect pulled up, and the head priest, recognizing the fancy car, ran out to greet him. Taking one look at the alterations, the first thing Wright says is, “Who did this? This is not my work.”

“We needed a chapel,” the priest stammered.

“Well, I can design you one,” Wright said. 

Ignoring the priest, he turned to his colleagues and said, “Come on. I’ll show you the house.” And in they walked, uninvited. 

Wright never got to design that chapel, as he died a few months later. But he’d be happy to learn the property has been restored. 

Isabelle liked to create flower arrangements, so Wright planted a cutting garden for her in front of the home.

The Cutting Garden

Our tour began with a walk through Isabelle’s garden. She was noted for her flower arrangements, so Wright designed gardens to accommodate her hobby. 

Eventually, the Martins hired landscape architect Ellen Biddle Shipman, renowned for her naturalistic style, to revise Wright’s landscaping scheme. Shipman enhanced the garden for Isabelle, giving her flowers that would bloom in rotation from spring through fall. 

The site also includes pine trees, which reminded Isabelle of summers at the Lake Placid Club in the Adirondack Mountains. 

Beyond the cutting garden were the vegetable gardens, orchards for apple and pear trees and grapevines. 

The house was approached from a diagonal driveway, which faced the sunset and helped make the narrow home appear larger.

The First Glimpse of Graycliff

Our initial view of the house took place between two stone markers, the original location of the driveway that led to the house. 

The family owned eight and a half acres, but the plot where they wanted their summer home was two and a half acres. Further complicating matters, the spot atop the limestone bluff was just 250 feet wide. That’s very narrow for a 6,500-square-foot house. 

But there was nothing Wright liked so much as a challenge. And one of the cool, oh-so-Wright elements is that you approach Graycliff at an angle. The Martins bought the adjoining property from their next-door neighbors, the well-to-do Rumseys. The driveway branches off of the Rumseys’ and perfectly faces the setting sun, which would be a vision for visitors arriving for a summer soirée. 

The turnabout was made of yellow gravel — to complement the gold of the setting sun, of course. 

Approaching from an angle had an added bonus: It made the narrow façade seem more stately and grand. 

But the house itself wasn’t the main focus: Wright wanted the first glimpse to be of the lake; that was the true star of the show.

Horizontal lines almost always play a prominent role in Wright’s designs. For him, they draw a parallel to the ground, and in particular at Graycliff, the horizon and the surface of Lake Erie. The house becomes one with nature. 

The roof is made with cedar shake shingles, each hand-painted. Wright didn’t like gutters, so the house doesn’t have any. He never was one to let practicality get in the way of aesthetics. 

By creating a glass box of sorts, visitors could see through the home’s rectilinear form right out to the lake. At the time Graycliff was built, the area was undeveloped farmland, with nothing obstructing the view of the water. 

The driveway curves around an artificial pond, but that wasn’t part of Isabelle’s plan. Once again, she wanted something that would evoke her beloved Adirondacks, and she requested a small hill covered with bushes and low trees. But Wright cleverly played the money card, and insisted that the pond would be less expensive. The idea is that this water feature would be an extension of the lake. Wright almost always got his way.

A large part of Wright’s design aesthetic involves incorporating colors and materials from the surrounding area. At Graycliff, sand from the shores of Lake Erie was mixed into the stucco to add another layer of texture, and the home’s red roof is meant to evoke the ferrous oxide in the Tichenor limestone on the cliff behind the house that bleeds a rust color. 

Sand from the beach was added to the stucco façade and inspired its yellow hue. The cliff’s limestone, bleeding a rusty red that carries into the color of the roof, was also used to build the home.

Another design motif favored by Wright was cantilevers — and at Graycliff, he wanted to evoke the layers of limestone on the bluff. 

His plans called for various additions, but his clients weren’t sold. 

“The Martins were concerned about money, and they said to him, ‘We really don’t need this balcony; we don’t need the stone porch; we don’t need the porte cochère. Just a little awning would be great,’” our guide Gail tells us. “And then they go away on a trip — and when they come back, all that’s in process.”

When the Martins complained about these additions, Wright replied, “You don’t need them — but the house does.” Ever the egotist, Wright was always right, and he bristled whenever someone questioned his vision. 

Stay by Sarah Braman, 2022, on the grounds of Graycliff

Sarah Braman: Finding Room

When we visited Graycliff, monumental modern sculptures by Sarah Braman were scattered about the grounds. These large geometric shapes made of concrete and brightly colored glass added a vibrant element of visual interest to the landscape. We enjoyed them, and hope that Wright would have appreciated them as well.

Duke peeks out of Sit, a 2022 sculpture by Braman — the first of her works we saw during our visit to Graycliff

Wally takes the name of the sculpture, Sit, literally.

That being said, we could have done without a couple of the ones inside the house. We’d have preferred to see the living room set up as it would have been when the Martins lived here — not emptied of some pieces of furniture to make way for Braman’s smaller-scale sculptures of domestic items and found objects, which struck us as disjointed. 

The client actually wanted a hill here with trees — but Wright insisted on a small pond that would connect to the lake out back.

Entering Graycliff

Upon arrival, we passed through the porte cochère and entered the foyer. Immediately, you’ll notice one of Wright’s signature architectural techniques, known as compression and release. In the entry, the ceiling is low, and the smaller scale of the room creates a tension that propels you to move beyond it, into the larger living room, an open space with higher ceilings. To create the expansive double-height space, Wright used beams from nearby Bethlehem Steel. 

Unlike Wright’s Prairie-style homes, which were concentric, with one large room off of which the others flowed, Graycliff is rectilinear. One room follows another, and Wright used compression to define transitions between these spaces without walls. By this time, he was moving into a style he referred to as organic architecture.

The stucco-covered walls used on Graycliff’s exterior continue into the interior, and provide a visual connection between the outdoors and indoors. 

When the Graycliff Conservancy purchased the property in 1999, very few of the original furnishings remained. Many are reproductions, including the willow and reed pieces throughout the home. This type of furniture was very popular during the late ’20s and is thought to be similar to what Darwin and Isabelle saw when they vacationed in the Adirondacks. –Wally 

Wright felt fireplaces were the heart of a home, and this one was built in the Adirondack style.

A Room-by-Room Tour of Graycliff

The Living Room

The living room is center stage. Floor-to-ceiling windows and doors open onto the front terrace and the backyard and span the length of the house. These walls of glass provide gorgeous views of Lake Erie and fill the interior with plenty of natural light. The focal point of the room is the monumental Adirondack-style stone fireplace with a mantle that nearly covers the north wall. Wright believed that the fireplace was the heart of the home. An unusual feature to this type of hearth is that logs were stacked on end, vertically. As a fire burned, it created a dramatic plume of flames. 

One of the few materials used in the home that was not sourced locally was the cypress heartwood flooring from Florida — most likely chosen for its durability and beauty.

Curl up with a good book in the Fern Room, a cozy nook off of the living room.

The Fern Room

Adjacent to the living room is a cozy nook that served as a library and is known as the Fern Room — a great spot to curl up with a good book and admire the incredible views of the lake. The ceiling is lower here to establish a more intimate space. The floor is covered in flagstone that came from the city of Buffalo, which was, at the time, replacing its stone walkways with concrete. 

Wright proposed that the window glass meet at the corners so as not to obstruct the view, but the Martins didn’t see the need for that additional expense. (He would later get his way at Fallingwater, a home built for Edgar and Liliane Kaufmann between 1936-1937 in Mill Run, Pennsylvania.)

The Sunporch

Beyond this, the floorplan flows into the sunroom, with rubber floor tiles. Originally a screened-in porch, cypress-framed windows were added to shield occupants from the intense winds coming off the lake. 

The room functioned primarily as a music room. Isabelle had a paid companion who lived at Graycliff by the name of Cora Herrick, though the children called her Aunt Polly. She played the piano — one of the few original pieces of furniture remaining in the home. According to Gail, Darwin wrote in his diary how much he loved hearing music being played while he was working at his desk above. 

Diners had great views at Graycliff — and got to avoid errant sparks flying out of the fireplace.

The dining room at Graycliff is around the corner from the living room.

The Dining Room

On the other side of the living room is an area that served as the dining room. 

The table is positioned parallel to the wall so that guests could easily turn to enjoy the view of the lake — and also to avoid the errant sparks and embers that occasionally popped out of the fireplace. 

All six bedrooms are found upstairs.

The Staircase

A cascading waterfall staircase made of maple leads to the home’s bedrooms on the second floor. This type of passage consists of two parallel flights of stairs joined by a landing that creates a 90-degree turn. 

A dramatic window with a diamond shape at the top of the stairs

The architect’s signature use of rhythmic repetition can be seen in the home’s details. Wright noticed that the local limestone breaks off in geometric forms, so he gave a nod to these in subtle ways: octagonal door knobs and a diamond-shaped window at the apex of the staircase as well as light fixtures. This brings order and visual harmony to Graycliff. 

Poor Darwin got stuck with the worst bedroom of the bunch.

Darwin, a workaholic, converted his porch into an office.

Darwin Martin’s Bedroom

Upon climbing the stairs, Darwin’s bedroom can be found to the right. Not only did Darwin not share a room with his wife, he was also assigned the worst of the bunch, to our minds. It’s smaller than most of the other bedrooms, though it does contain a small bathroom and sleeping porch.

Darwin converted the porch into an office, as he was a notorious workaholic.

The bedrooms feature one of the innovations at the time: olive knuckle hinges patented by Stanley Company that allow a recessed door to open all the way flat to the wall. 

This sparse hallway led to the bedrooms and the back staircase.

We really liked Braman’s Her House (2019), which sat in Isabelle’s room, as it evoked the larger pieces on the lawn.

A guest room next to Isabelle’s room offered twin beds — and gorgeous views of Lake Erie.

Isabelle’s room had its own bathroom, a door out to a balcony and a walk-in closet — unheard-of in a Wright home!

Isabelle Martin’s Bedroom 

At the top of the stairs and looking to the left is a monastic gallery, which has a similar set of windows as the living room below, and leads to a private wing with bedrooms. The first is a nice guest room, with Isabelle’s bedroom next door.

Wright despised closets. However, Isabelle was the client of record for the house and insisted he provide her with one. Her bedroom includes a walk-in closet where the bathroom was originally planned. But Isabelle wanted her bathroom to have a window, so it had to go on the lake side and required Wright to cut a hole into the chimney to accommodate her request. 

A private terrace is accessible from Isabelle’s room, and she probably spent evenings there as direct sunlight would have been too much for her eyes to bear. 

She might have been the hired help, but Aunt Polly sure had nice digs at Graycliff.

Aunt Polly’s Room 

While she did get a nice bedroom, Aunt Polly was technically the help. Her room is a transitional space from that of the immediate family to the staff. 

Cora remained in service from 1911 until Isabelle’s death in 1945. In 1929, when the Martins could no longer afford to pay her, Cora stayed on for room and board. After their mother’s death, the children took care of their dear Aunt Polly. 

Even the servants had cute rooms at Graycliff.

The servants had their meals in a sunroom at the back of the house.

This cool sink came from Europe and was used exclusively by Isabelle for her flower arrangements.

The Pantry and Kitchen 

Farther down the corridor are two bedrooms for the staff, as well as the back staircase that leads down to the staff sunporch and kitchen area.

The hammered metal sink in the pantry was imported from Europe and was used solely by Isabelle to arrange flowers from her cutting garden. The cook had to use the one in the adjacent kitchen, which faced the front yard instead of the lake. 

On display within the built-in cabinets, another Wright trademark, behind Isabelle’s sink, are Larkin Soap products, including Buffalo china. Elbert Hubbard was Darwin’s brother-in-law and started the Arts and Crafts Roycroft movement in East Aurora, New York. He suggested to Larkin that consumers would be incentivized to purchase their product if they received a piece of china along with it. He was right, and the pottery ended up being quite successful. 

In the cabinets, there’s also the Martins’ red and white wedding china and Indian Tree pattern china, which were gifted to the conservancy by the couple’s grandchildren. 

Here’s the sink the cook used in the kitchen off of the pantry.

The stovetop and oven were all part of one piece of furniture.

The small yet functional kitchen contains another original piece, a hulking fridge from the Jewett Refrigeration Company, along with a freestanding prep station, sink and porcelain-glazed stove. 

The Heat Hut held a boiler to heat both Graycliff and the Foster House. Then the priests used it to store wine and honey.

The Heat Hut

Sitting between the main home and the Foster House is the sunken red-roofed Heat Hut. The structure once held an oil boiler that provided steam heat to both houses. According to Gail, the Piarist priests used it to store wine and honey from the bees they kept on the property. 

The Foster House, part of the garage at the Graycliff estate, was originally used by the chauffeur and his family.

The Foster House

The apartment above the garage was built for the chauffeur and his family. The original design was flipped so that the cantilever balcony would afford its inhabitants unobstructed views of the lake. 

Shortly after the stock market crashed, the Martins couldn’t afford to keep the chauffeur out at Graycliff, so they sent him back to Buffalo, and their daughter Dorothy, and her husband, James Foster, moved in, spending summers there with their two children until 1941. 

Wally and Duke on a balcony of the Foster House

There are quite a few bedrooms in the Foster House — but not much else, aside from a small sitting room and kitchen.

After Darwin’s death and the family’s financial troubles, Isabelle moved into the Foster House, staying in what was the gardener’s room, which had its own bathroom. The ever-particular woman liked to sit on the balcony — but she didn’t appreciate seeing the cars pull into and out of the garage. She contacted Wright, who acquiesced and moved the garage doors to the side and extended the wall.

Wright extended a wall to block out the view of cars coming and going from the garage for Isabelle.

“And she says, ‘While you’re at it, can you make me another bedroom up there?’” Gail tells us. So the apartment now has four bedrooms and a couple more balconies. Isabelle seems to have been the one person who could charm Wright into altering his original plans.

The seating out back helped hide the servants carrying picnic items down to the beach and back.

The Esplanade 

Wright’s idea for the esplanade was to build a reflecting pool, cascading terraces and steps that led all the way down to the beach. But when the architect left the premises, Darwin contacted his friends at Bethlehem Steel to request a metal tower with steps like those his neighbors had. Not as pretty as Wright’s vision but certainly practical. It deteriorated, so there’s no longer any way down the beach.

Duke, Poppa and Wally enjoy the gorgeous day at Graycliff.

The access to the stair tower was visible, though, and again Isabelle complained about the view. When she was out on her terrace, she could see the servants coming and going. She felt this was unseemingly — that’s why they had a rear staircase, after all — so Wright constructed the overlook seating in such a way that the help could go about their business while remaining out of sight. 

Saving Graycliff 

When the Martin family decided to sell the property, the person who wanted to buy it was a developer who built the condominiums that are now next door. He planned to demolish Graycliff — who needs a historic home when you can get top dollar for lakefront condos? 

Thankfully, a group in Buffalo came to the rescue, forming the Graycliff Conservancy. In 1999 they received a grant, and the conservancy was able to purchase the property. 

The renovations began, wrapping up in 2019 and costing about $10 million. 

There are plans to build a new eco-friendly visitors center to replace the current one, which was built by the priests as a gymnasium for the children.

Restored back to its 1926 splendor, Graycliff exemplifies Wright’s philosophy of living in harmony with nature. If you’re in the Buffalo area, stop by for a visit. As with all of Wright’s homes, they have to be seen to be fully appreciated. –Duke

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Graycliff

Graycliff

6472 Old Lake Shore Road
Derby, New York 14047
USA

 

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The Fayban Villa and Its Connection to Frank Lloyd Wright

Pilgrimage to Marfa, Texas

Seeking spirituality in the mystical town that modern artist Donald Judd helped build. 

Sleepy Marfa, Texas: Try the sotol at the Marfa Spirit Co. (on the left) and get your caffeine fix at the Sentinel coffee shop (to the right).

On Sunday we wake to our alarms set for 7:30 a.m. We crawl out of bed, run to the bathroom, throw on clothes — no time to brush teeth or make coffee. We’re not leaving town just yet. In fact, this is one of the reasons we arrived in the first place. I draw the bedroom curtains open in a panic. Phew. Okay, we’re okay — we have time. The sky is still an indigo gradient spreading across the Davis Mountains in the distance. And of course it is: The sun doesn’t rise until 7:50 something. 

We’re headed across town to the Chinati Foundation for an annual sunrise viewing of Donald Judd’s 15 untitled works in concrete. 

A ranch horse outside of Big Bend National Park

“It’s all about the light.”

— A random mom to her child, at the Chinati Foundation

All sense of anxiety — to be on time — flees once we arrive. Folks park their cars along the main road leading to the foundation’s gates. People seem to be getting out of their cars and making their entrance in slow motion. Maybe they’re hungover from the free booze at the arena last night. Maybe they also had to skip the coffee this morning. Or maybe this place is just demanding our slow presence, asking us to be aware. 

The 15 works in concrete are actually 15 separate arrangements of concrete rectangular prisms stretching north to south in a straight one-kilometer line. There are 60 boxes in total. Each unit contains the same dimensions, 2.5 by 2.5 by 5 meters, and is built with concrete slabs 25 centimeters thick. Each work plays with shape and light — some with units arranged into triangles and others into rectangular patterns; some with three in a group, others with six. Throughout the works, the individual units showcase variety. Some are completely closed boxes and others allow light and air to permeate: sometimes on the long sides, sometimes on the short ends. 

The light changes everything when viewing Donald Judd’s untitled concrete works in Marfa, Texas.

There’s a stillness in the air this morning. Not creepy or eerie. Just still. Calm. As we descend the path leading to the sculptures — every step leaving new, prickly grass burs stuck to our boots — I can tell the sun has broken above the horizon. I can’t see it behind the pony wall of clouds, but I know it. The once-indigo sky is getting brighter and lighter by the moment. Fog in the distance is becoming more obvious and the dew on the desert grass is catching the light. 

Judd’s works, finished in 1984, can be found on a former military compound.

Once we get down to the long line of concrete boxes, I know I want us to walk south. There’s a small hill at the end. It’s the only place on campus where you can see all 15 works at once. On a mission, in a race against time — I wasn’t sure how quickly the sun would rise above the clouds — we led the march atop the hill. And then we just stood there. Watching other observers and observing ourselves. Resting. Waiting. I wanted this perspective for when the light rose above the clouds and spilled out onto the land and through the sculptures. 

The gorgeous scenery in nearby Big Bend National Park

Donald Judd’s Mission and My Personal Pilgrimage 

For a long time I’ve struggled with what it means for something to be spiritual or to be a spiritual person. I’ve identified as nonreligious since my early 20s, shortly after coming out. I think growing up in an evangelical family made me believe that anything spiritual was inherently related to God. And when I left the Southern Baptist church, I had no intention of going back or being associated with religion ever again. I didn’t want to talk about spirituality, much less think about it — it was all tied up in terrible church experiences.

Though, the first time I watched the sun creep above the horizon, stretch its golden light across the surfaces of the Judd pieces and pour a warm glow throughout the Texas desert, it clicked. I thought, “This is spiritual.”

The entrance to the Chinati Foundation’s John Chamberlain Building

Throughout his career, Judd was interested in ideals of autonomy (a key principle of minimalism), both for the artist and for the artist’s works, hence his anti-museum philosophy and developing this middle-of-nowhere campus for creating and showing his work and that of his contemporaries. For the sculptures, though, a driving concept was his interest in space — how an object takes up and contains space and how an object can be permanent and site-specific. Or as Judd put it, he was interested in “specific objects.” I interpret “specific” to mean both mathematical but also unique to the space in which the object resides.

All of Judd’s sculptures demand your awareness of the space around them, either through scale, texture, color, reflective qualities, placement or some mixture of attributes. 

I’m so drawn to the concrete works because they practically beg you to fall in love with the light and land around them. The Brutalist forms cast geometric shadows, sharp lines amid desert grasses, prickly Texas dirt and a soft view of the Davis Mountains on the horizon. It’s an emotional juxtaposition asking you to consider yourself against the land, by way of the art itself. It’s a manmade proposition with an unavoidable spiritual consequence. 

Inflection Point by Darren Almond (2022) frames the entrance to the Hetzler Marfa gallery property.

If you get the opportunity to visit Marfa, here are tips from someone who has visited five times since 2015.

4 Tips to Get the Most Out of Marfa

1. Get the full Judd experience.

Some people are drawn to Marfa by the quirky allure of a small art town in the middle of nowhere, or by the iconic Prada Marfa installation (26 miles outside of town, LOL), or by the rentable bohemian trailers and yurts of El Cosmico. And many of them have no clue about the Chinati Foundation or who Donald Judd was. It’s sad not just because they’re missing out on a key contribution to modern art history, but also because without Judd’s arrival, Marfa would likely still be in collapse after Fort D.A. Russell was decommissioned in 1949 (the main site of Judd’s campus).

The Judd Foundation

I love visiting Marfa during the annual Chinati Weekend, when the foundation opens its doors to the public for self-guided tours, and the town’s shops and galleries hold special hours for the influx of visitors. 

Outside of that early October weekend, I do recommend visiting when Chinati hosts a sunrise or sunset viewing and also making an appointment for a full collection tour (a four-and-a-half-hour experience).

Caleb’s husband, Brennan, reading the exhibition guide at Ballroom Marfa gallery during Chinati Weekend Open House in 2022

The Judd Foundation — the organization charged with preserving Judd’s living and working spaces, libraries and archives in NYC and Marfa — also provides rich tours of the artist’s other sites throughout town.  

Slow down and forgo your expectations. You’re on Marfa time.

2. Know that Marfa operates on Marfa time, and the town is always changing.

Planning for trips is not in my nature. I hate it. But your trip to Marfa needs planning. For one, there is a limited number of places to eat, drink and stay (see also: gentrification in Marfa). Second, that list of places is always changing. If you read a list of things to do from this year, I can guarantee it will be outdated in less than 12 months. And finally, a business’ hours of operation are far from predictable. We passed a bookshop with a posted sign reading, “Hours: We Give Up! Check: FB, IG and Marfa Group” (a private forum on Facebook). That’s the vibe everywhere — don’t trust Google, or even a business’ website. Check their social.

Sunrise in Marfa, Texas, from Caleb and Brennan’s Airbnb

3. Dress for the desert.

Think of those early fall days when you’re excited to wear layers. Because that’s what you’ll need: layers. Hot days and cool nights, because desert. Buy your cowboy hat before you visit. They’re cheaper outside of town. And consider making the two-hour drive south to Big Bend National Park. If you go, be prepared for a hike, literally.  

Horses seen on a run just west of town

4. Realize that getting there is a beautiful trek. 

Jenny Moore, Chinati’s former director, said, “You can get from New York to Paris, seated and eating dinner, faster than you can get from New York to Marfa. So, you got to make the commitment to come here.” That’s the truth. The two closest major airports, El Paso and Midland-Odessa, are each about a three-hour drive north. Whether you fly into El Paso or make the six-and-a-half-hour drive from Austin, Interstate 10 is bound to be on your route, taking you through the Chihuahuan Desert. Take it all in: the grasslands, the basins and plateaus; and watch the sky reach from one end of the Earth to the other. –Caleb Fox

Families playing by the Rio Grande river at Big Bend National Park

One of Caleb’s favorite desert plants, the ocotillo, at Big Bend National Park

 

Hubbard Street Murals: Chicago’s Street Art Gallery

Wanna see some cool murals in Chicago? This stretch of Hubbard features street art done by artists from around the world. 

Pilsen or West Loop? Find out where the best murals in Chicago are.

Duke and I are obsessed with street art. We hunt it down and take pics of it wherever we go. 

But, as amazing as it would be to share your art with the world, it also strikes me that it must also be heartbreaking how ephemeral street art can be. Buildings get demolished (or simply change ownership), and the artists have no claim to their work. And how awful it would be to have your work obliterated — which definitely seems to be a trend, at least in Chicago at hip venues like Soho House and the Violet Hour. In many cases, we view murals nowadays as temporary canvases, able to shine all too briefly before they are painted over and another takes its place.

One of Wally’s favorite murals on Hubbard Street

I work near Fulton Market (West Loop is Best Loop, as we say), and on my lunch break, I will often walk along Hubbard Street, from Halsted to Ogden, to admire and photograph the murals. The one downside is that there’s no real path along the street — at times you’ll be trekking through weeds and bushes to see the sights.

Even the underpasses along Hubbard are covered with cool graffiti.

At first there were many remnants from the ’70s, faded and less artistic than the amazing works done by today’s muralists. But now, every time I pass by, more and more of the original murals have been painted over, replaced by more modern artworks. Hubbard Street acts as an amazing outdoor gallery, an open-air museum of some of the most talented street artists from around the world. 

¡Viva Chicago indeed! A fading luchador mural

The Hubbard Street murals blow Duke’s mind.

Great street art really packs a wallop for Wally.

I caught up with Levar Hoard, chief curator and managing director of the B_Line, a mile-long corridor of public art in Chicago’s Fulton Market District, who was kind enough to answer a few questions for us.

Levar Hoard heads up the Hubbard Street Murals project.

A Q&A With Levar Hoard of the B_Line

Tell us about the original project. When did it begin and what was its mission?

The original founder/curator was Ricardo Alonzo. When the murals started in 1971 (this year is our 50th anniversary), they were dedicated to environmental causes (pollution initially, then endangered animals). That went on to include many concepts like Mexican native art, abstract and other styles.

How did B_Line get involved?

We became the sole curators in 2017 after years of research and negotiation with the private train company that owns the walls (it's not a city project), and we legally assumed the license in perpetuity from Ricardo that was signed in 1971 with the railroad.

How do you find the artists? What’s the process with them?

We fly the world's most renowned artists to Chicago and also find Chicago’s best muralists, and discover new muralists, who we give their first commission to. 

As a privately run and funded organization, we subjectively select artists based on skill level, demonstrated competence with techniques and materials, and aesthetics. 

One of the artists flown in to create a mural

How do you decide where each artist is to paint, and when it’s time to paint over an existing mural?

It’s based on the condition of the wall. Most of the murals from 1971 are long gone, and we work to preserve or restore them where possible. Where it’s not possible or worthwhile, we recondition the wall and usher in a new era of art and artists that reflect the time we now live in — the M.O. of street art. 

What’s your favorite thing about the mural project? 

Meeting thousands of people that visit the murals weekly. 

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Be sure to check out B_Line’s Instagram feed for video interviews about their many projects and history: @blinechicago.

To learn more about the history of the Hubbard Street Murals, read this Reader article.

We also reached out to a couple of the street artists behind our favorite murals along the stretch of Hubbard. Here are their stories.

Nurture or Nature by the street artist duo Pipsqueak Was Here!!!

A Q&A With Pipsqueak Was Here!!!

The Amsterdam, Netherlands-based street artist duo known as Pipsqueak Was Here!!! told us about their experience with the Hubbard Street Murals:

We were in Chicago for a show with Vertical Gallery and had a few days to play around. Patrick Hull, who runs the gallery, introduced us to Levar Hoard, who curates the B_Line paintings. He helped us out with two ladders, and Patrick provided us with some paint.

We painted a girl holding a duck, a stencil we had with us because we planned to do a mural for the RAW Project, an incredible collective to improve the environment of elementary schools around the USA.

Our painting is called Nurture or Nature. The work, like most of our paintings, is a combination of a child with an animal. We combine these two to depict the relationship between human beings and the remaining natural environment. Most of our work is about how we treat the world and how, in return, it treats us.

Nurture or Nature poses the question, should we protect what is left or should we let nature take its course, whatever the consequences may turn out to be?

We really enjoyed being part of this wonderful project, as we found it incredible to see that they included and restored some of the paintings over 40 years old. It was an honor to contribute to such a rich tradition, and we were really helped by Lavar, Patrick and Margaux Comte, who took photographs while we worked.

We had an overwhelming response to this painting, and it really was fun being able to do something like this on such short notice.

Here’s a short time-lapse video of the mural creation.

The Hubbard Street mural painted by Stinkfish

A Q&A With Stinkfish

The artist known as Stinkfish told us: 

I got involved by an invitation by B_Line and through my gallery in Chicago, Vertical Gallery. 

I used a portrait of a girl in a workshop I did in Vienna, Austria. She had the mask because we were using spray paint. 

Then came COVID, and the piece took on another relevance and meaning. 

It was a good experience. It’s a nice place to paint. The project gave me the opportunity to see different styles, techniques and messages in the same place. 

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If you’re a fan of murals, you can’t miss the Hubbard Street corridor. This might be a controversial view, but I prefer these murals to those on 16th Street in Pilsen, another legendary stretch of street art in Chicago. With new artists constantly creating works of art, a walk along Hubbard is never quite the same, even just weeks apart. –Wally

Fabyan Villa Museum and Its Frank Lloyd Wright Connection

Tour the picturesque Riverbank estate, with the Fabyan Forest Preserve, a Japanese garden, a windmill, quirky curios (a suspect mummy!) — and a codebreaking legacy.

The Fabyan Villa can thank Frank Lloyd Wright for its cruciform shape. The house and its grounds are worth exploring if you want to take a day trip from Chicago.

Before my parents make their annual visit to Wally and me in Chicago, we plan an interesting day trip, do a little research and look for something quirky to do. Typically it’s somewhere a bit farther afield since neither of us has a car. I can’t recall how we settled on the Fabyan Villa in Geneva, Illinois. It’s entirely possible that I came across it on the Atlas Obscura website, given Wally’s and my proclivity for attractions that don’t always make their way into guidebooks. Or it could've had something to do with Frank Lloyd Wright, the Japanese garden or the circa-1850 Dutch-style windmill located on the grounds of the sprawling estate. 

Colonel George Fabyan

George Fabyan, Country Squire of Riverbank

In 1905, Colonel George and Nelle Fabyan purchased 10 acres of land in Geneva, including a Victorian-style farmhouse, as a country retreat from their residence in Chicago. Fabyan (pronouced like Fay-bee-yen) came from a wealthy and prominent Boston family. His father was a co-partner at Bliss, Fabyan and Company, one of the country’s largest dry goods and textile merchants, known for Ripplette, a lightweight, crinkly fabric similar to seersucker, which needed no to minimal ironing after washing. 

Fabyan inherited his father’s wealth — around $2 million dollars (equivalent to over $57 million today). He acquired an additional 300-plus acres over the next 20 years and named the estate Riverbank. 

George and Nelle indulged in a variety of unconventional interests, including cryptology, Japanese gardening and the construction of a scientific laboratory complex that let them pursue their research interests.

“Some rich men go in for art collections, gay times on the Riviera or extravagant living. But they all get satiated.

That’s why I stick to scientific experiments, spending money to discover valuable things that universities can’t afford. You can never get sick of too much knowledge.”

— Colonel George Fabyan

The Fabyan Villa Museum

A Tour of Fabyan Villa

The four of us arrived at the forest preserve, parked the car and followed the steps leading up to the house, which sits on a hillside overlooking the Fox River. We purchased tickets ($10 per person) and met a docent from the Preservation Partners of Fox Valley (PPFV) outside who told us about the historic home. In 1907, the Fabyans commissioned architect Frank Lloyd Wright to enlarge and remodel the existing farmhouse in the Prairie style. While it’s no Fallingwater or even Graycliff, it has its charms.

Additions included the two-story south wing, which added symmetry to the dwelling’s long, low cruciform shape, three projecting porches, wood-spindle screening and overhanging eaves, adding to the horizontality of the overall design. 

Our tour began in the Fabyans’ reception room, which is paneled in dark walnut and furnished with Victorian-era wood and glass display cabinets, showcasing the couple’s memorabilia, taxidermy and Asian ephemera. Among the notable acquisitions on display are a white marble statue of Diana and the Lion (Intellect Dominating Force) by American sculptor Frank Edwin Elwell, which stands in the dining room and was originally exhibited in the Palace of Fine Arts at the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition. There’s also a Japanese samurai suit and a vitrine filled with bodhisattva statuettes.

On the back porch is a display case holding a mummy. Its body is wrapped in strips of linen and clutching what uncannily resembles an infant. Turns out the mummy is actually a forgery. In 1982, an expert examined the mummy, and an X-ray revealed it to be fabricated with nails, plywood, sawdust and a single bone inside the wrappings — and that bone came from a dog. Apparently, no one’s certain of its provenance or if the original owners knew it was a fake. One theory is that it may have been featured as a sideshow oddity or was an artifact purchased by Fabyan from the Field Museum. 

The Fabyans’ mummy turned out to be a hoax.

Beyond the dining room is Nelle Fabyan’s bedroom and en suite bathroom with custom furniture designed by Wright. Nelle had a hanging bed, suspended from the ceiling like a giant swing, and it’s speculated that this was to promote air circulation and protect her from contracting tuberculosis. Many of the original furnishings were auctioned off when the estate was sold in 1939, but locals who owned pieces donated them back to the landmark, which is managed by the PPFV. 

Frank Lloyd Wright didn’t build the Fabyan Villa from scratch — but he did renovate it, infusing it with Prairie style aesthetics and symmetry.

Wright’s Prairie style aesthetic is also evident in the open floor plan and warm earth tone color palette used on the walls of the interior. 

Upstairs is the music room, where Nelle’s Victor Talking Machine aka Victrola, encased in a wood cabinet, stands sentinel. Only the wealthy could afford the innovative Victor-Victrola model, whose initial selling price was $200, expensive for the time.

Duke and Wally explore the estate.

Duke and his parents in the rose arbor (which was noticeably lacking roses at the time of our visit).

Connected to the music room is the sleeping porch, where the pet monkeys, Mike, Patsy and Molly, would stay during the winter months. The floor of the room is tinplate, with drainage incorporated for obvious reasons (monkey waste). Perhaps the simians filled the vacant role of children to the childless couple?

Furniture, art and light were an integral part of Wright’s conceptual philosophy, creating compositions that functioned as a cohesive whole. As such, he would have most likely despised the ornate Victorian bed in the second floor bedroom. Wright’s leaded glass cathedral-style windows or “light screens” as the architect called them, fill the room with light. They’re not the intricate geometric stained glass affairs he was famous for elsewhere, as, out here in the countryside, he didn’t want to obscure the beauty of the natural view. 

The house’s grounds lead down to the Fox River.

Fabyan’s Animal Kingdom 

In addition to that trio of monkeys, a menagerie of animals lived on the estate, including Cayman alligators, a pair of black bears (named Tom and Jerry after a popular Midwestern milk punch served at the holidays), cows and dogs. A bear cage remains southwest of the garden, and according to local lore, loaves of bread were baked in the basement of the windmill to feed Fabyan’s pet bears. 

Japanese gardens were a craze with the elite in the early 1900s, and the Fabyans added a lovely one to Riverbank.

Turning Japanese: The Fabyan Japanese Garden

Awaiting visitors outside and just beyond the villa are the Japanese gardens and rose arbor, which lead from the bottom of the slope at the rear of the villa down to the banks of the Fox River. After the Japanese embassy created a garden for the 1893 World’s Fair, they became a status symbol among the wealthy. 

The Fabyans’ gardens were built between 1910 and 1913 by landscape architect Issei Taro Otsuka, a Japanese immigrant gardener who later redesigned the 1893 Wooded Island in Jackson Park for the Century of Progress International Exposition, the second world’s fair hosted by Chicago.

The gardens were closed on our visit, but we were able to see the torii gate, traditionally found at the entrance of a Shinto shrine and demarcating the passage from the earthly to the sacred. The gardens looked beautiful from afar, with conifer pine trees, traditional stone lanterns and a graceful curved bridge reflected in the pond beneath it. 

Although Fabyan didn’t serve in the armed services, he was given the honorary title of colonel by Illinois Governor Richard Yates out of gratitude for his public service work after Fabyan allowed the National Guard to use the estate as a training ground — and from that time on, George was known as Colonel Fabyan. He also received Japan’s Order of the Rising Sun, a decoration of honor awarded for his invaluable participation in peace negotiations with Japanese emissaries, a few of whom stayed on the property when the Colonel and Nelle hosted them. 

Riverbank Laboratories, owned by Fabyan, conducted acoustic research and later became instrumental in codebreaking.

Codebreaking at Riverbank Laboratories: Birth of the NSA

The Fabyan estate also carried on extensive scientific research, with greenhouses where they would grow exotic plants and conduct genetic experiments. Across the street from the villa is Riverbank Laboratories. This was Fabyan’s think tank. He was interested in subjects as diverse as acoustics and, perhaps the Colonel`s most famous legacy, the cryptology laboratory.

The acoustics laboratory, which is still in operation today, was built around an ultra-quiet test chamber for the study of soundwaves and was designed by the top acoustics expert in the country, Professor Wallace Sabine of Harvard University. 

One of the Colonel’s odder obsessions was a belief that Sir Francis Bacon was the true author of some (or even all) of Shakespeare’s literary works, and that Bacon had left coded messages within the plays and sonnets. Fabyan hired Elizabeth Wells Gallup, a scholar and author of The Bi-literal Cypher of Sir Francis Bacon, to decipher a binary alphabet to reveal secret messages in the works of Shakespeare. 

Fabyan was convinced that there were clues in Shakespeare’s plays that revealed that their true author was actually Sir Francis Bacon.

Gallup’s team included Elizebeth and William Friedman, who spent years honing their cryptology skills researching the Bard’s works using Bacon’s ciphers. Though largely inconclusive, their efforts weren’t entirely in vain: The couple was instrumental in breaking codes and ciphers during World War I and World War II. Because the U.S. military didn’t yet have a dedicated department devoted to codebreaking, Fabyan’s Riverbank Laboratories ended up being the foundation for the NSA, the National Security Agency.

Fabyan was quite proud of his windmill. Make sure you cross the Fox River and check it out.

Over the River to the Windmill

In 1914, Fabyan purchased a Dutch-style windmill for $8,000 from Yorktown, Illinois, about 20 miles from its current location, and spent around $75,000 reconstructing it on the east bank of the Fox River. The windmill stands at an impressive 68 feet high and was originally built by Louis Blackhaus, a German immigrant and craftsman, between 1850 and 1860. 

But it was mainly a toy for Fabyan, who enjoyed showing it off to his Chicago friends. In 1979, the windmill was listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the following year, it was selected to be on a U.S. postage stamp as part of a series in a booklet called Windmills USA. 

Look for the fun Egyptianate benches on the lawn.

Preserving the Legacy of the Fabyan Villa and Forest Preserve

George died in 1936 and Nelle in 1939, and because they had no offspring, the Forest Preserve District of Kane County purchased the majority of the estate and opened the residence as a museum the following year. Starting in 1995, the nonprofit PPFV was enlisted to maintain and provide tours of the historic dwelling. The house was added to the National Registerof Historic Places in 1984. 

The four of us had a wonderful time wandering the paths that cross the bucolic park-like setting of the historic estate, with plenty of photo opportunities along the way. It’s an easy drive (just over 40 minutes from Chicago) and it’s remarkable to consider the lasting scientific achievements that germinated from the Fabyans’ private research center. If you’re looking for a fun place to visit that combines architecture and nature, the Fabyan Villa is open for tours from May to October. –Duke

 

Fabyan Villa Museum & Japanese Garden

Fabyan Forest Preserve
1925 South Batavia Avenue
Geneva, Illinois, USA