Did King David and King Solomon Really Exist?

Shocking evidence answers this question as well as whether David was a successful warrior king and Solomon built his legendary temple and palace. 

Historical evidence reveals that the legendary kings of Israel, David and Solomon, actually existed.

They’re the first two legendary kings of Israel: David, who as a youth defeated the Philistine giant Goliath with a single stone from his slingshot, and Solomon, gifted with otherworldly wisdom and wealth. (Okay, so there was one king before them, Saul — but God was already planning his replacement when Saul committed suicide after the Philistines killed his sons.)

The City of David, thought to be the original site of Jerusalem, is now Wadi Hilweh, a predominantly Palestinian neighborhood.

“The actual extent of the Davidic ‘empire’ is hotly debated,” write Israel Finkelstein and Neil Asher Silberman in The Bible Unearthed: Archaeology’s New Vision of Ancient Israel and the Origin of Its Sacred Texts. “Digging in Jerusalem has failed to produce evidence that it was a great city in David or Solomon’s time. And the monuments ascribed to Solomon are now most plausibly connected with other kings. Thus a reconsideration of evidence has enormous implications.”

“A shard of a monument sent shockwaves throughout the world of biblical scholarship — and provided the oldest proof of a biblical patriarch: namely, the legendary King David.”

We’ve seen that the first books of the Old Testament, the Jewish Torah, fudged the facts: There wasn’t a mass Exodus out of Egypt. There wasn’t a conquest of Canaan by God’s Chosen People. So how about David and Solomon — are they a myth as well?

Michelangelo’s iconic statue of David

King David: What’s the Proof He Existed?

“David and Solomon are such central religious icons to both Judaism and Christianity that the recent assertions of radical biblical critics that King David is ‘no more a historical figure than King Arthur,’ have been greeted in many religious and scholarly circles with outrage and disdain,” Finkelstein and Silberman write.

At first, things didn’t look good: “for all their reported wealth and power, neither David nor Solomon is mentioned in a single known Egyptian or Mesopotamian text,” the authors continue. 

Was King David, who, as a mere boy, killed the giant Goliath with a single blow, just a myth? David und Goliath by Osmar Schindler, 1888

But often it only takes one single archeological artifact to revolutionize our version of history. We see this constantly in Egypt, where a scrap of papyrus or engraving on a statue completely alters our understanding of a pharaoh’s reign. 

And it was a shard of a monument that sent shockwaves throughout the world of biblical scholarship — and provided the oldest proof of a biblical patriarch: namely, the legendary King David.

David holds up the head of the giant Goliath.

In 1993 at the site of Tel Dan in northern Israel, archeologists discovered a fragment of a black basalt monument that dates to around 835 BCE. While it spoke of a horrific defeat of Israel and Judah (which were separate kingdoms at the time) by Hazael, the king of Damascus, amidst his boasting he mentions the House of David. 

The Tel Dan Stele, dating from 835 BCE, mentions defeating the House of David — making it the oldest proof of a biblical patriarch.

This means that David’s dynasty “was known throughout the region; this clearly validates the biblical description of Judahite kings in Jerusalem,” Finkelstein and Silberman write.

David wasn’t actually the best guy. As described in the Bible, he fell in love with another man’s wife and sent him off to the front line of a battle to be killed.

But Was David a Warrior King?

While biblical literalists can be pleased to find evidence that King David did once live and rule in the Levant, they’re sure to be bummed that there’s no way he could have embarked on a military campaign of any sort. 

“There is absolutely no archaeological indication of the wealth, manpower and level of organization that would be required to support large armies — even for brief periods — in the field,” according to Finkelstein and Silberman.

Next thing you know, they’ll be saying David didn’t actually slay the gigantic hero of the Philistine army with a single shot from a slingshot.

A color sketch by Edward Poynter for his 1890 painting The Visit of the Queen of Sheba to King Solomon

King Solomon: Was He Really a Master Builder?

David’s son Solomon, to whom God gave “wisdom and understanding beyond measure,” is said to have commissioned numerous building projects, including a magnificent temple to YHWH and a nearby palace. The Old Testament, as well as the Nevi’im section of the Hebrew Bible, describes him as fortifying Jerusalem, along with the important provincial cities of Hazor, Megiddo and Gezer. 

Ancient Jerusalem, with Solomon’s Temple at its center (note: probably not drawn to scale)

So some archaeologists and biblical scholars were downright giddy at the discovery of somewhat similar six-chambered gates at Hazor, Megiddo and Gezer. Surely this was a sign of Solomon’s famous public works projects! 

If that is indeed the case, though, I wonder why there isn’t a gate like that at Jerusalem, Solomon’s capital city? 

The six-chambered gate at Gezer was once thought to have been built by Solomon — but it was actually constructed decades after his reign.

It turns out that renewed analysis of the archaeological styles and pottery showed that they dated to the early 9th century BCE. The trouble with that? It happens to be decades after Solomon had died. 

Solomon’s Temple in Jerusalem — though it probably wasn’t anything as grand as it’s depicted.

Petitioners came to Solomon for his judgements. He was basically the Judge Judy of his time.

Solomon was said to possess a magic ring that allowed him to control demons and jinn.

Mythic Kings as Propaganda

“The material culture of the highlands in the time of David remained simple,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. “The land was overwhelmingly rural — with no trace of widespread literacy that would be necessary for the functioning of a proper monarchy.” Jerusalem was no more than a typical highland village. Only about 5,000 people lived in the vicinity.

Archeological remains of King David’s palace show that at the time, Jerusalem was a relatively small town.

And even though King David’s deeds have been aggrandized, he must have been a talented ruler who joined his region together. “Such a small and isolated society like this would have been likely to cherish the memory of an extraordinary leader like David as his descendants continued to rule in Jerusalem over the next four hundred years,” the authors say. 

At the time these stories in the Old Testament were written, in the 7th century BCE, Jerusalem had grown into a relatively large city, dominated by the Temple to the God of Israel, with an impressive army and administrative bureaucracy. 

The stories of the powerful King David made for good propaganda at the time of Josiah. David and Goliath by Titian, circa 1544

God gives Solomon his famous wisdom.

Building up the reputation of legendary kings of the past served the current ruler, Josiah. This useful bit of propaganda connected Josiah as an heir of David, the man who was said to have conquered the Promised Land and established an empire. It helped bolster support for Josiah’s “vision of a national renaissance that sought to bring scattered, war-weary people together, to prove to them that they had experienced a stirring history under the direct intervention of God,” according to Finkelstein and Silberman. “The glorious epic of the united monarchy was — like the stories of the patriarchs and the sagas of the Exodus and conquest — a brilliant composition that wove together ancient heroic tales and legends into a coherent and persuasive prophecy for the people of Israel in the seventh century BCE.” 

If they had to fudge the truth to accomplish that, so be it. –Wally

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OTHER RELIGION POSTS

Did the Old Testament Conquest of Canaan Really Happen?

Archeological evidence shows that the Israelites’ destruction of Jericho and the other cities of the Promised Land was nothing more than propaganda. 

And the walls came tumbling down? Did the city of Jericho fall as it’s depicted in the Bible? The Taking of Jericho by James Tissot, circa 1902

I always felt bad for Moses. He suffered as his people were enslaved by the Egyptians and was instrumental in leading their escape — only to have them wander dejectedly through the desert for 40 years. And then, right as the Israelites were in sight of Canaan, at long last, poor old Moses keels over and dies. He never even got to set foot in the Promised Land. 

It seems like a cruel trick: After leading his people out of slavery and then for 40 years in the desert, Moses gets a glimpse of the Promised Land — but dies before entering it.

Turns out the Israelites most likely didn’t go on to engage in a conquest of Canaan as the Bible says, according to Israel Finkelstein and Neil Asher Silberman in their book The Bible Unearthed: Archaeology’s New Vision of Ancient Israel and the Origin of Its Sacred Texts. 

“Despite the string of fantastical victories described in the Bible, there’s no archeological evidence that the Israelites conquered the cities of Canaan. ”

At the time of the supposed conquest of cities like Canaan, the area was actually sparsely populated with no evidence of warfare.

Despite the string of fantastical victories described in the Old Testament of the Christians (the first five books of which make up the Jewish Torah), there’s simply no archeological evidence that the Israelites conquered the cities of Canaan. 

In fact, at the time the conquest is said to have happened, in the Late Bronze Age, the cities of the region were sparsely populated.

And despite the description of the walls of Jericho miraculously tumbling down at the blowing of some trumpets, the towns of Canaan weren’t fortified. There would be ruins of stone walls from the time — but there simply aren’t any. Makes for a dramatic story, though. 

A map of the Twelve Tribes of Israel from 1320

The First Israelites: A Peaceful, Gradual Expansion

Instead of a lengthy battle campaign in which the Israelites conquered the major cities of Canaan, archeological evidence points to a much more mellow birth of the Israelite people. 

A dense network of about 250 highland villages in central Canaan developed in the span of a few generations around 1200 BCE. Most were no more than an acre in size, home to an average of 100 inhabitants, half of which were adults and half children. 

There certainly wasn’t a strong cultural identity that united these people.

The Ancient Israelites didn’t go on a killing spree throughout Canaan; they arrived peaceably over the course of a few generations.

“In contrast to the culture of the Canaanite cities and villages in the lowlands, the highland villages contained no public buildings, palaces, storehouses or temples,” write Finkelstein and Silberman. “Signs of any sophisticated kind of recordkeeping, such as writing, seals and seal impressions, are almost completely absent. There are almost no luxury items: no imported pottery and almost no jewelry. Indeed, the village houses were all quite similar in size, suggesting that wealth was distributed quite evenly among the families.”

Also conspicuously absent for God’s supposed Chosen People: shrines or any other evidence of their religious beliefs.

The early Israelites seem to have eked out an agricultural existence. Stone-lined pits dug between houses stored grain, and fenced courtyards secured animal herds at night. 

The Fall of Jericho by Tamás Galambos shows the city as a small metropolis. But the reality is that these were small unfortified villages.

Despite the biblical stories of conquest after conquest, the evidence shows that these people were actually peaceful. The villages weren’t fortified and showed no signs of burning or other sudden destructions that would indicate an attack. Nor were any weapons discovered during excavations.

The Ancient Israelites surely had a lot that differentiated them from other people in the area, like unique religious practices, right? Nope. Only one thing: an aversion to pork.

The One Defining Characteristic of the Early Israelites 

As mentioned, the remains of these villages offer scant clues as to what set apart the Ancient Israelites. There simply isn't any evidence of religion or culture. But there is one item that’s conspicuously missing from their diet: pig bones. While these were found in neighboring lands, the lack of remains reveals that no pigs were raised in the highlands during the Iron Age, the era of the Israelite monarchies. 

So what made the early Israelites unique? They didn’t eat pork. Th-th-th-that’s all, folks. 

“Half a millennium before the composition of the biblical text, with its detailed laws and dietary regulations, the Israelites chose — for reasons that are not entirely clear — not to eat pork,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. “When modern Jews do the same, they are continuing the oldest archaeologically attested cultural practice of the people of Israel.”

This site, known as the Tower of Jericho, reveals that the conquest of Canaan didn’t happen like the Bible says.

Contrary to the Bible

The archeological evidence just doesn’t support the tales of the Old Testament, the authors argue. In fact, it’s the exact opposite: “the emergence of early Israel was an outcome of the collapse of the Canaanite culture, not its cause,” they write. “And most of the Israelites did not come from outside Canaan — they emerged from within it. There was no mass Exodus from Egypt. There was no violent conquest of Canaan. Most of the people who formed early Israel were local people — the same people whom we see in the highlands throughout the Bronze and Iron Ages. The early Israelites were — irony of ironies — themselves originally Canaanites!” –Wally

The Temple of Literature in Hanoi and Its Confucius Connection

Looking for things to do in Hanoi? Walk through the five courtyards of Van Mieu and Quoc Tu Giam, Vietnam’s oldest national university. 

A pair of stone steles outside the main gates instructed everyone — even the emperor — to dismount their horses before entering the compound. It’s not as much of a concern nowadays.

One of the perks of staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter is that its many attractions are within walking distance. 

En route to one of the must-see destinations, the Temple of Literature, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I passed a shop selling trendy men’s short sleeve shirts. Sadly, even an XL in Vietnam would have been too small. 

The Temple of Literature is this way — but who’s right? Wally or Vanessa?

We also passed the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long on our way to the temple. 

The Temple of Literature was built to honor Confucius, who strived to have his followers live up to their ideal selves.

Quoc Tu Giam University

Van Mieu, the temple-cum-university, is located in the Dong Da district, a leafy green neighborhood about a 35-minute walk from the Prince II Hotel, where we were staying.

The temple was originally conceived and built in 1070 to honor Chinese philosopher Confucius.

A mere six years later, Quoc Tu Giam, literally translated as the “Temple of the King Who Distinguished Literature,” was established within the complex. The prestigious academy opened in 1076 to teach the doctrines of Confucius and his 72 disciples to the royal family and elite members of society before opening its doors to bright commoners in 1253. Students accepted into Van Mieu’s Quoc Tu Giam attended for three to seven years. The curriculum was influenced by Imperial China and involved rigorous study in classical Chinese literature, poetry and penmanship. 

“The man who says he can and the man who says he can’t are both usually right.”

— Confucius

The core of Confucianism is aimed at creating the ideal man, emphasizing the disciplines of social, ethical and political conduct. It’s believed that if everyone followed these principles, the right balance would be attained, and social order would prevail. 

Five courtyards lead through the complex.

Making an Entrance: the Great Portico

One of the first things you’ll see as you approach the historic structure is the impressive two-tiered main temple gate, Van Mieu Mon. The grand portico contains three doorways. The largest is in the center and was traditionally reserved for the emperor. To the left is a stylized relief of the “Tiger of the Mountain” and to the right, the “Dragon in the Cloud.” These flank the main doorway and represent symbols of the power of the king and the success of students and past scholars. 

The second level holds a bronze bell that was rung when a notable person entered the temple complex. For some reason, it didn’t ring when we came in.

The three pathways beyond run the entire length of the complex. 

Van Mieu’s design and layout are based upon Qufu, the birthplace of Confucius, located in the northeastern province of Shantung, China. Visitors take the central path, which leads to Dai Trung Mon, an open-air pavilion supported by red painted columns. Atop the middle of the roof, two carp with raised tails flank a gourd-shaped vase. 

Bonsai trees are planted in the temple grounds.

The Five Courtyards 

The Temple of Literature is divided into a total of five courtyards. Behind its high brick walls are a pair of courtyards where students would relax among the ancient trees and manicured lawns. 

In the center of the second courtyard is the Khue Van Cac, the Constellation of Literature pavilion. Khue is the name of the brightest star in the constellation of 28 in the Milky Way. The square wooden structure is supported by four white stone columns and has an elaborate terra cotta-tiled double roof. Its circular windows with spoke-like slats symbolize radiating suns. 

Well of Heavenly Clarity? More like Pond of Murky Greenness.

Muddy Waters at the Well of Heavenly Clarity

Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the Khue Van Cac and entered a third courtyard, where we found Thien Quang Tinh, the Well of Heavenly Clarity. Ironically it’s neither clear nor a well, but rather a large basin of murky green water. 

Le Cour des Steles, as the French would say, as it was back in 1890

A similar shot of the Well of Heavenly Clarity, this one from the 1970s

Thien Quang Tinh and the Doctors’ Steles

Two great halls stand to either side of Thien Quang Tinh, containing the treasured stone steles placed atop the backs of turtle statues. In Vietnamese culture, turtles are a symbol of wisdom and longevity. 

These tombstone-like monuments honor graduates and sit atop turtles, which represent wisdom.

The names commemorate more than 1,300 students who attained doctoral ranks in the triennial royal court exams held at Quoc Tu Giam and provide details about the greatness of the monarch issuing the exam, as well as some regional history. Over time, the turtles’ foreheads have become burnished by the touch of thousands of hands — it was considered good luck for students to rub the heads of the statues before their exams. 

Shrines to two of Confucius’ followers

The Ceremonial Hall and Sanctuary of Great Success

The fourth courtyard is where you’ll find the Ceremonial Hall and Dai Bai Duong, the Sanctuary of Great Success, which was once considered so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, anyone may enter.

Inside is an elaborately decorated altar to Confucius and his four disciples Yanhui, Mencius, Zisi and Zheng Shen. One each side stands a bronze crane atop a turtle’s back.

Wally loves a giant crane — but feels bad for the poor turtle it’s standing on.

The Sanctuary of Great Success houses a shrine to Confucius.

This part of the temple was once so sacred that even the emperor was forbidden entry. Today, you’re free to roam about its confines.

From University to Pagoda of Crows

The fifth and final courtyard is where the actual university, Quoc Tu Giam, once stood. It lay abandoned when the French arrived in 1883 and was referred to pejoratively by them as the Pagoda of Crows since a flock of the black birds nested in an old mango tree on the site. The French razed the original building to accommodate the sick and wounded during wartime.

The roots of a massive banyan tree allow Wally to take a dramatic shot.

Duke taking a break while exploring the temple

Today, there are several exhibits within the reconstructed academy, including a statue of Chu Van An, one of the academy’s rectors and a beloved figure in Vietnamese history for his dedication to teaching. 

Fortunately, the Temple of Literature has retained most of its original architectural style and character through multiple wars and restorations. It was declared a monument historique in 1906 by the French administration and restored by the École Française d’Extrême-Orient in 1920. Admission is 30,000 Vietnamese dong, or about $1.30. –Duke

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TAKE A 360-DEGREE VIRTUAL TOUR of the Temple of Literature

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A dragon undulates along the rooftop of the sanctuary.

Temple of Literature
58 Quốc Tử Giám
Văn Miếu
Đống Đa
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

 

The Legend of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter

A magical sword with the power to change fate is given to the warrior king Le Loi by a golden turtle who lives deep beneath the waters of  Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Legend has it that beneath the waters of Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter, a turtle god guards a magic sword.

Hoan Kiem Lake, the tranquil body of water located within Hanoi’s Old Quarter, plays an important role in Vietnamese mythology. While there are several variations of the tale, all include the central figure of Le Loi, a great warrior defending Vietnam from the Ming Dynasty of China, as well as a fisherman, a deified golden turtle and Thuan Thein, a powerful weapon bequeathed to Le Loi by a Dragon King.

“Imbued with magic, the sword enlarged Le Loi to giant size and gave him the strength of 1,000 men, bringing one victory after another, until he was able to vanquish the invading Chinese army. ”

Emperor Le Loi holds his magic sword, which could transform him into a giant, while Kim Qui, the golden turtle god, looks on.

Le Loi and Le Than: The Warrior and the Fisherman

Le Loi was a real person who lived in the 1400s. A revolutionary who became emperor, he began a dynasty that would last 360 years. 

According to the nation’s founding myth, the Vietnamese people are the offspring of a sea dragon and a mountain fairy. With such fantastical creatures running around, perhaps it’s not surprising that a local god, Long Vuong, called the Dragon King, happened to possess a magical sword.

The legend of Le Loi as depicted on a Vietnamese stamp

The weapon was divided into two parts: the blade and its handle. The blade was discovered in Than Hóa Province by a fisherman named Le Than. Believing he had caught a big fish, he was bewildered to find a long thin piece of metal entangled in his net. He tossed it back into the water and recast his net in a different location. He was puzzled to have the same thing happen again. When the sword ended up in his net for a third time, he accepted his fate and decided to take it home with him. 

Meanwhile, the young general Le Loi set out to assemble an army. While recruiting from the surrounding villages, he paid a visit to the province of Than Hóa, happening to stop at the fisherman’s home. Though the interior was dimly lit, the blade unexpectedly emitted a shimmering glow in Le Loi’s presence. Le Than sold the blade to Le Loi, which was inscribed with the words “Thuan Thein” (According to Heaven’s Will).

There was only one problem — there wasn’t a safe way to grasp it. 

Sometime later, while fleeing the Ming army, Le Loi climbed a banyan tree to conceal himself, and it was there that he discovered the sword’s hilt. The two pieces fit together perfectly. Problem solved.

Imbued with magic, Thuan Thein enlarged Le Loi to giant size and gave him the strength of 1,000 men. The sword brought Le Loi one victory after another, until he was able to vanquish the invading Chinese army. 

With echos of the Le Loi legend, King Arthur returned his magic sword, Excalibur, to the Lady of the Lake.

The Lake of the Restored Sword

Like the legend of Excalibur, the magical weapon wielded by King Arthur, Thuan Thein had to be returned to its watery source. After the war, Le Loi rowed out onto Luc Thuy, Green Water Lake, in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and was met by the golden turtle god Kim Qui. In a human voice, it asked Le Loi to return the sword to its divine owner, lest it corrupt him. The noble emperor drew the sword and cast it into the lake. With great speed, Kim Qui caught the sword in its mouth and retreated to the bottom of the lake, never to be seen again. 

A relief from Trấn Quốc Pagoda, on an island in Hoan Kiem Lake, features the turtle deity with the magic sword strapped on its back.

To commemorate this extraordinary event, Le Loi renamed the lake Hoan Kiem, Lake of the Restored Sword.

Turtle Tower, or Thap Ruá, sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem on a small island, built to honor the tale of the Restored Lake and its guardian, Kim Qui.

A stone structure now rises from a small islet in the lake. Known as Thap Ruá, or Turtle Tower, it was built to honor Kim Qui, the magical aquatic guardian of the sword. –Duke

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VISIT the Temple of the Jade Mountain in Hoan Kiem Lake in the Hanoi Old Quarter

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Did the Exodus Really Happen?

Evidence reveals that the Hyksos were Canaanites — and their story later morphed into the Exodus to serve as a rallying cry against Egypt. 

Could over 600,000 Hebrew slaves revolt and escape their captors in Egypt? Spoiler alert: The Exodus is more folk tale than actual history.

Egyptian pharaohs steadily ruled their empire for thousands of years — except during a foreign occupation that lasted over a century.

An Egyptian historian named Mantheno, who wrote in the 3rd century BCE, “described a massive, brutal invasion of Egypt by foreigners from the east, whom he called Hyksos, an enigmatic Greek form of an Egyptian word that he translated as ‘shepherd kings’ but that actually means ‘rulers of foreign lands,’” write Israel Finkelstein and Neil Asher Silberman in The Bible Unearthed: Archaeology’s New Vision of Ancient Israel and the Origin of Its Sacred Texts. Inscriptions and seals from the time of the invasion have names that are West Semitic, or Canaanite.

“If a great mass of fleeing Israelites had passed through the border fortifications of the pharaonic regime, a record should exist.”

— Israel Finkelstein and Neil Asher Silberman, “The Bible Unearthed”

The Hyksos in this Egyptian painting are depicted as wearing brightly patterned clothes, which Wally much prefers to plain old white skirts.

Were the Hyksos Actually the Hebrews?!

Archaeological excavations in the eastern Nile delta “indicate that the Hyksos ‘invasion’ was a gradual process of immigration from Canaan to Egypt, rather than a lightning military campaign,” the authors write. “The fact that Manetho, writing almost fifteen hundred years later, describes a brutal invasion rather than a gradual, peaceful immigration should probably be understood on the background of his own times, when memories of the invasions of Egypt by the Assyrians, Babylonians and Persians in the seventh and sixth centuries BCE were still painfully fresh in the Egyptian consciousness.”

The biggest clue that the Hyksos were none other than the Hebrews is something else Manetho wrote: He suggests that after the usurpers were driven from Egypt, they founded the city of Jerusalem and built — you guessed it — an important temple there.

Israel gets a brief mention on the Merneptah Stele in a long list of conquered kingdoms.

When Did the Exodus Happen? The Merneptah Stele

If we take the story of the Exodus at face value for now, what evidence is there to provide a date for it? The Ancient Egyptians kept quite a written record, and, when paired with archaeological digs, the expulsion of the Hyksos is typically placed around 1570 BCE. If we go by the Old Testament account that this occurred 480 years after the construction of the Temple, that means the Exodus happened in 1440 BCE. 

But the Bible mentions the Hebrew slaves helping to construct the city of Raames (Exodus 1:11) — a name that’s inconceivable at that time, according to Finkelstein and Silberman. “The first pharaoh named Ramesses came to the throne only in 1320 BCE — more than a century after the traditional biblical date,” they write. “As a result, many scholars have tended to dismiss the literal value of the biblical dating, suggesting that the figure 480 was little more than a symbolic length of time, representing the life spans of twelve generations, each lasting the traditional 40 years.”

The Battle of Kadesh, in which Ramesses II battled the Hittites, as shown on a wall of the Ramesseum, the pharaoh’s mortuary temple

A city named Pi-Ramesses, or the House of Ramesses, was built with the help of Semites in the delta during the reign of Pharaoh Ramesses II, who ruled from 1279-1213 BCE. 

What’s more, though, is the famous stele of Merneptah, Ramesses’ son. The inscription is the sole mention of Israel in all of the artifacts from Ancient Egypt. The tribe is part of a list of people who were decimated during a Canaan campaign. Merneptah went so far to exclaim that Israel’s “seed is not!” 

This would mean that if a historical Exodus did indeed take place, it would have occurred in the late 13th century. The evidence doesn’t match up, though.

The Israelites Leaving Egypt by David Roberts, 1828

The Exodus: A Lack of Evidence

It’s highly unlikely that a large group of slaves could have made it out of Egypt at the time, given the guard posts all along its borders, argue Finkelstein and Silberman. “If a great mass of fleeing Israelites had passed through the border fortifications of the pharaonic regime, a record should exist,” they insist.

And if the slaves did somehow get out, there would be archaeological records of the Hebrews as they wandered in the desert. “However, except for the Egyptian forts along the northern coast, not a single campsite or sign of occupation from the time of Ramesses II and his immediate predecessors and successors has ever been identified in Sinai,” write Finkelstein and Silberman. “And it has not been for a lack of trying.”

Numerous excavations haven’t turned up anything: “not even a single sherd, no structure, not a single house, no trace of an ancient encampment,” they continue. “One may argue that a relatively small band of wandering Israelites cannot be expected to leave material remains behind. But modern archaeological techniques are quite capable of tracing even the very meager remains of hunter-gatherers and pastoral nomads all over the world.”

Whether it actually happened or not, the Exodus makes for a great story — especially the dramatic parting of the Red Sea and the drowning of the pursuing Egyptians.

Dating Exodus — a Great Piece of Propaganda?

All of the archeological evidence, including a reference to the kingdom of Edom, which refuses to help Moses, indicates that the Exodus narrative was completed during Ancient Egypt’s Twenty-sixth Dynasty — that is, during the 7th and 6th centuries BCE (shortly after, one would imagine, the stories of Abraham and the other patriarchs told of in Genesis). That’s 600 years after the events were supposed to have taken place!

What was the purpose of the Exodus story, if we put it in context of that time in history? “The great saga of a new beginning and second chance must have resonated in the consciousness of the seventh century’s readers, reminding them of their own difficulties and giving them hope for the future,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. 

Was Exodus written to bolster the agenda of King Josiah of Judah?

Josiah, the young ruler of Judah, sought to escape from the yoke of the newly crowned Pharaoh Necho II, who reigned Ancient Egypt from 610-595 BCE. 

Connecting Josiah’s confrontation with the Egyptian empire to that of Moses and the pharaoh of Exodus, complete with miracle after miracle to demonstrate the Hebrews as Yahweh’s Chosen People, would have been a powerful piece of propaganda. 

“[A]ncient traditions from many different sources were crafted into a single sweeping epic that bolstered Josiah’s political aims,” the authors conclude.

There simply is no evidence that a mass Exodus as described in the Old Testament ever happened. –Wally 

The Story of Moses, the 10 Plagues of Egypt and the Exodus

A concise summary of the Old Testament book of Exodus, from the burning bush to the parting of the Red Sea. 

Don’t upset a friend of Yahweh or you might end up with a dead son, as the pharaoh of Egypt did in the Old Testament tale of the Exodus. Death of the Firstborn by Lawrence Alma-Tadema, 1872

The poor Hebrews of the Old Testament. For years, they just couldn’t catch a break. 

This ethnic group, which traces its roots to the 12 tribes formed by the sons and grandsons of Jacob, grew in power over 430 years. But the pharaoh of Egypt, fearing he would be betrayed to one of his many enemies, enslaved the Hebrews and forced them into construction gangs. 

“To save their firstborns, Yahweh gave his Chosen People a secret code: Sacrifice a lamb and smear its blood on the doorposts.

That way Yahweh knew to spare that child by passing over the home — the origin of the Jewish festival of Passover (get it?). ”

Things got even worse after that. In a despicable form of population control, the pharaoh ordered that all male Hebrew children be drowned in the Nile. One child, though, from the tribe of Levi, was set adrift in a basket woven from bulrushes. It floated along until rescued by one of the pharaoh’s daughters. The child was given the name Moses, from the Hebrew root “to draw out,” and was raised in the royal court.

Pharaoh’s daughter rescued baby Moses in his basket adrift upon the Nile, as shown in another painting by Alma-Tadema, The Finding of Moses, from 1904.

When he grew into adulthood, Moses saw an Egyptian taskmaster flaying a Hebrew slave with a whip. Moses flew into a rage and killed the taskmaster, hiding the body in the sand. He still worried he’d be caught, though, and fled into the wilderness. This is where he heard the voice of the God of Israel, who revealed his mystical name, YHWH (throw in some vowels and you get Yahweh). The voice came from the depths of a burning bush that didn’t get consumed by the flames. It told Moses that he’d be the savior of his people and would lead them out of Egypt. 

Moses and the Burning Bush, Edward Knippers, 2008

But did the event predicted by the talking bush, the Exodus, really happen? What does archeological and historical evidence reveal?

The plague of locusts devoured every last plant living in Egypt.

Out of Egypt: Escape of the Hebrew Slaves

Back to the beleaguered Hebrews. Pharaoh, taking out his wrath toward Moses, intensified the suffering of the slaves. Yahweh told Moses to give the pharaoh a warning that he’d better let the Hebrews go — or else. That “or else” turned out to be the 10 plagues, starting off with the Nile turning to blood, working through frogs, gnats, flies, a livestock disease, boils, hail, locusts and darkness, and ending with the slaughter of every firstborn in Egypt. 

In one of the plagues, Yahweh caused the livestock of Egypt to contract a fatal disease.

To save their firstborns, Yahweh gave his Chosen People a gruesome secret code: Each Hebrew family sacrificed a lamb and smeared its blood on their doorposts. That way Yahweh knew to spare that child by passing over the home — the origin of the Jewish festival of Passover (get it?). 

Yahweh swept through Egypt, laying waste to all the firstborns as depicted in this creepy painting And There Was a Cry in Egypt by Arthur Hacker from 1897.

Pharaoh didn’t learn his lesson. When the 600,000 or so slaves fled on foot into Canaan, the Egyptian ruler decided to pursue them. Yahweh parted the Red Sea, allowing the Hebrews to pass through, and then brought the waters crashing down upon the Egyptians. 

The Red Sea parted for the Hebrew slaves seeking freedom in the Exodus — but came crashing back down to drown the pursing Egyptians.

Moses and the Ten Commandments by Barbara Goshu

The Ten Commandments: Thou Shalt Not Piss Off the Lord God

The Hebrews were hardly models of propriety. Moses was up on Mount Sinai getting the Ten Commandments written upon stone tablets from Yahweh, and by the time he returned, his people had started worshipping a golden calf. 

Those fickle Hebrews. Moses wasn’t gone too long before they started worshipping a false idol, as seen in Nicolas Poussin’s The Adoration of the Golden Calf from 1634.

Moses was so upset he threw the stone tablets onto the ground, shattering them, and had to have God write up a new set. 

Later, when spies reported that the cities of Canaan were well fortified and populous, the Hebrews had the gall to rebel against Moses, insisting they’d rather go back to being Egyptian slaves! At least their physical safety would be assured, they reasoned. 

Well, this understandably pissed off Yahweh, who questioned his decision to name the Hebrews his Chosen People. They didn’t deserve no Promised Land; instead he decided to force them to wander the wilderness for 40 years to think about what they had done wrong. –Wally

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Did the Exodus really happen? See what the evidence says!

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6 of the Best Glamping Spots in the U.S.

Glamping destinations with luxury amenities in gorgeous natural settings, including Safari West and Ventana Big Sur.

Glam + camping = glamping! Who says you need to rough it while you’re enjoying the Great Outdoors?

Ah, nature. Whether it’s the chirping of birds, the meandering of a crystal-clear stream or sleeping under the stars, there’s a reason it's called the Great Outdoors. But for those of you who wish to experience Mother Nature but not forgo luxury, why not go for a glamping spree? Enjoy the delights of camping — without an uncomfortable night’s sleep or communal bathrooms.

Here are my favorite glamping destinations in the U.S.:

Giddyup! The Resort at Paws Up is set on a working dude ranch.

1. The Resort at Paws Up, Greenough, Montana 

Located outside Missoula in central Montana, this authentic working dude ranch and resort occupies an astounding 37,000-acres of unspoiled wilderness. Ride a chuck wagon, fly-fish on the Blackfoot River or watch the breathtaking sunsets after a spa treatment. 

The property boasts luxurious accommodations and amenities including six campsites with safari-style tents featuring fine linens, electricity, private en-suite bathrooms with rain showers and jet tubs. There’s even an onsite butler who caters to your every whim.  

Rustic chic interiors include en-suite bathrooms. Oh, and if you need something, just ring for the butler.

Features

• Adventure activities like cattle wrangling, horse riding, kayaking, mountain biking and fishing in the Blackfoot River are popular here. 

• Or just relax in the spa tents, surrounded by the sounds of birds, cool breezes and good vibes.

They don’t call Safari West “the Sonoma Serengeti” for nothing.

2. Safari West, Santa Rosa, California

This 400-acre private wildlife preserve supports the conservation of 1,000 exotic animals and birds. Creatures that span the entire African continent are the draw at this top-notch safari resort, dubbed “the Sonoma Serengeti.” The luxury tents, imported from Botswana, include a private viewing deck, an en-suite bathroom, vintage furniture, king-sized beds, hardwood floors and other “essential” amenities.

Take a safari right in California and stay in African tents that have bathrooms and viewing decks.

Features

• Who says you need to go to Africa to go on a safari? At Safari West you can spot giraffes, rhinos, cheetahs, lemurs, zebras, a gorgeous big cat called a caracal and dozens of other species.

• Enjoy regional delicacies at the Savannah Café and fill your tummy with delicious food.

Pair a trip to the famous national park with a glamping trip to Collective Yellowstone.

3. Collective Yellowstone, Big Sky, Montana

Located about an hour west of the park’s boundaries beneath Lone Peak, this stunning retreat connects guests with their natural surroundings while providing them with luxurious comforts. Each teepee-like tent is outfitted with a king-size bed, electricity, a wood-burning stove, a full bathroom and a chandelier. You won’t have to think about a thing at this glamping hotspot famous for its sunsets and forest safari, as their dedicated concierges will attend to your every need. Oh, and there’s a nightly communal campfire with s’mores. 

Keep warm inside the teepee-like tents, which feature wood-burning stoves.

Features

• The glamping sites featuring a private deck fill up fast — be sure to book in advance.

• World-class chefs offer dishes at any time of day to be consumed with gorgeous views. 

Amazing redwoods surround the Ventana glamping resort.

4. Ventana, Big Sur, California

Walk among the massive redwoods or stare out at the ocean along the rugged Pacific coastline. This resort, part of the Alila family, occupies 160 acres, and its 15 luxury glamping tents include modern amenities like USB ports (so you can charge those phones!), hot and cold running water as well as nightly turndown service with hot cocoa and hot-water bottles to warm your sheets.

Take a dip in the pool when you’re not hanging out in your luxury tent or exploring the environs.

 Features 

• The campground is situated along a redwood canyon. Each glamping spot includes a deck with two firepits: one wood-burning, one propane.

• Try your hand at falconry, getting up close and personal with these birds that can dive at speeds over 240 mph. 

Ever wanted to play a real-live version of Oregon Trail — minus the dysentery? Rustle up some fun at Conestoga Ranch.

5. Conestoga Ranch, Garden City, Utah

If you like to glamp by a large body of water, consider this top-notch spot situated on the shores of the turquoise blue waters of Bear Lake. The 18-acre-long ranch calls to mind the Old West. Guests can choose from authentically styled Conestoga Wagons, or cozy traditional family tents each outfitted with soft beds and fresh linens. The Grand Family Tents feature en-suite bathrooms. 

Circle up the wagons! This glamping resort offers a one-of-kind experience.

 Features

• There’s something for everyone. Want a romantic getaway? Try the Royal or Grand Tents, which include bathrooms. Family and friends can stay in the same vicinity as part of the Circle the Wagons package.

• Spend your days exploring the area on complimentary cruiser bikes or playing volleyball, lawn games, ping-pong or air hockey. You can even get a s’mores kit delivered to your wagon.

If you’ve always wanted to stay in a treehouse, there’s an amazing one at Moose Meadow Lodge.

6. Moose Meadow Lodge & Treehouse, Waterbury, Vermont

For a different take on glamping, satisfy your childhood dream of staying in a treehouse. And what a treehouse this is! It’s two stories of rustic chic, with a spiral staircase that wraps around a giant maple. Situated amidst more than 80 acres of lush mountains, this is a great spot to enjoy the tranquility of nature. 

The rustic chic interior of the treehouse, which wraps it way around a maple.

Features

• Of course your stay doesn’t have to be peaceful all the time. Catch an adrenaline rush with local outdoor activities, including skiing, biking and fishing. The less-sportif can spend a day antiquing.

• Enjoy the view from the Sky Loft, a mountaintop enclosed gazebo, or go for a winter wonderland adventure with complimentary snowshoes and sleds.

Camp in style as in this setup at Paws Up resort in Montana.

Happy Glampers 

This is the year to do your luxury travel a bit closer to home. For Americans in quarantine, the good news is that there are plenty of picturesque and fulfilling glamping experiences from the West Coast to the East Coast. Get the isolation of the outdoors without sacrificing any of the comforts of home. –Rebecca Siggers

When Was the Bible Written? Dating Genesis

The stories of Abraham, Jacob and Isaac in the Old Testament provide clues that, when paired with archaeological evidence, determine a date for when they would have happened.

Looking at the text of Genesis alongside archeological clues, scholars can make an informed guess as to when the events concerning Abraham and the other Old Testament patriarchs would have occurred.

In the beginning, God created the heaven and the earth…which in turn led to a debate about when the events of Genesis, the first book of the Bible, took place. There’s also a controversy about if the events took place as well, but Israel Finkelstein and Neil Asher Silberman, in their book The Bible Unearthed: Archaeology's New Vision of Ancient Israel and the Origin of Its Sacred Texts, wisely avoid that. The authors skip right over Adam, Eve, Cain, Abel, Noah, et al., jumping to the patriarch Abraham.

“What are the clues that the old way of dating Genesis was off by about 1,500 years?”

Until somewhat recently, biblical scholars landed on a date of about 2100 BCE for Abraham’s departure for Canaan. But Finkelstein and Silberman argue that archaeological evidence actually points to the events in Genesis matching up to the history of the 7th to 6th centuries BCE. What are these clues that the old way of dating Genesis was off by about 1,500 years?

Camel caravans, mentioned in Genesis, didn’t happen before the 8th century BCE.

Camels

As odd as it might seem, the camels mentioned throughout these stories reveal a major clue. Camels weren’t domesticated as beasts of burden in the ancient Near East until well after 1000 BCE. And caravans described as carrying gum, balm and myrrh in the Joseph story wouldn’t have been familiar until the Arabian trade flourished under the Assyrian Empire in the 8th and 7th centuries BCE.

The Philistine king of Gerar returns Sarah to Abraham.

The Philistines

These much-mentioned people of the Old Testament didn’t migrate from the Aegean or eastern Mediterranean until sometime after 1200 BCE. And it wasn’t until the late 8th and 7th centuries BCE that Gerar, identified today as Tel Haror, became a heavily fortified Assyrian administrative stronghold.

Jacob, described as an Aramean in Genesis, doles out his blessings to his male offspring, dividing up the land into the 12 tribes of Israel.

The Arameans

Arameans, who dominate the stories of Jacob and his two wives, Leah and Rachel, and his Uncle Laban, weren’t mentioned as a distinct ethnic group in ancient Near East texts until 1100 BCE or so. They became a dominant factor in the region in the early 9th century BCE. The history of early Israel and Aram are bound up together. In fact, “much of the population of the northern territories of the kingdom of Israel seems to have been Aramean in origin,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. Indeed, Jacob is even described at one point as “a wandering Aramean.” It wasn’t until the 9th to 8th centuries BCE that the two kingdoms created an official border. 

Fatherly deathbed blessings must have been common at the time. Here’s Isaac with his firstborn, Esau, who should have gotten his father’s birthright.

Jacob and Esau

In Genesis, Esau was the eldest son of Isaac, and by rights should have been given his father’s birthright. But his mother, Rebecca, preferred her younger son, Jacob, and tricked her husband into bestowing his blessing on Jacob instead. Even though that was a shady move, it explains how Israel and its people are God’s chosen people. Esau, a hunter and outdoorsman, represents the more primitive land of Edom, while Jacob, sensitive and cultured, represents Israel. The kingdom of Edom, in what’s now southern Jordan, didn’t exist until the late 8th century BCE, reaching a peak in the 7th and early 6th centuries BCE.

Judah, seen here tempted into sex with his disguised daughter-in-law Tamar (that’s a whole other story), got the best kingdom of the bunch from Jacob: the region that was home to what was then the small town of Jerusalem.

Judah

On his deathbed, Jacob doled out a bunch of blessings to his male offspring, who would disperse into the 12 tribes of Israel. But Judah was the one who received the royal birthright, described in Genesis 49:8-10. The eponymously named kingdom of Judah remained isolated and sparsely populated until the 8th century BCE. Its capital was then a small, remote hill town with a name you might have heard before: Jerusalem. 

“Yet after the northern kingdom of Israel was liquidated by the Assyrian empire in 720 BCE, Judah grew enormously in population, developed complex state institutions, and emerged as a meaningful power in the region,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. “It was ruled by an ancient dynasty and possessed the most important surviving Temple to the God of Israel.” 

All of this evidence points to the fact that the rise of the people of Israel, including the famous patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Judah, would have lived around the 7th and 6th centuries BCE — and not 2100 BCE as previously theorized. –Wally

Ngoc Son, the Temple of the Jade Mountain, in the Hanoi Old Quarter

Enter the gates and cross the bright red Huc Bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake to explore this Hanoi tourist attraction and see the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle.

Ngoc Son, aka the Temple of the Jade Mountain, sits on an island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, in the middle of Hanoi.

If you’re staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and wandering its warren of narrow streets like we did, chances are you’ll eventually end up at Hoan Kiem Lake. The small body of water is located in the historic district and known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. Its name alludes to the mythical blade wielded by Emperor Le Loi, a powerful warrior credited with liberating Vietnam from Chinese rule in 1428. 

After finishing our breakfasts of toasted baguettes and instant coffee with condensed milk at the Prince II Hotel on our second day in the Old Quarter, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I headed out to visit Den Ngoc Son. One of the most-visited sites in Hanoi, the Temple of the Jade Mountain lies on a small islet off the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower, also sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, but isn’t accessible to tourists.

Thap Rua, Tortoise Tower

This is also where you’ll find the picturesque yet inaccessible landmark, Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower. The structure sits on a remote island in the center of Hoan Kiem Lake and was built in 1886 to memorialize the legend of General Le Loi and Kim Qui, the golden tortoise who’s believed to fiercely protect the magical sword of the Dragon King beneath the placid waters. 

One of the temple’s colorful shrines

According to historical documents within the temple grounds, Ngoc Son was established in 1841 and later renovated under the guidance of Confucian scholar-poet Nguyen Van Sieu in 1864. Its pavilions and pagoda-style shrines are dedicated to revered beings and enlightened teachers, including General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century; La To, the patron saint of physicians; and scholar Van Xuong De Quan.

The first gates have Chinese characters upon them — one meaning happiness, one prosperity.

Three Is the Magic Number: Through the Tam Quan Gates

In Vietnamese culture, odd numbers bring luck and fortune, and perhaps that’s why most Vietnamese temples feature the traditional tam quan, or triple gate — which is the case at Ngoc Son. 

The first gate is decorated with two large red Chinese characters — happiness on the right, and prosperity on the left. I’d like to imagine that by walking through this portal, these attributes are bestowed upon those who make the pilgrimage to the temple. 

Just beyond and adjacent to the first gate is the Tháp Bút, a stone tower built in the shape of a traditional calligraphy brush, complete with nib. Erected by Nguyen Van Sieu, the totem-like monument is inscribed with the words “Tà thanh thiên,” which somehow carries this lengthy meaning: To write on the blue sky is to imply the height of a genuine and righteous person's determination and will.

The second gate has a tiger on one side, the symbol of female protection (e.g., tiger moms).

The second gate is embellished with colorful relief panels containing the Taoist symbols of yin and yang — a dragon and a tiger. The dragon represents male yang energy as power, wisdom and strength, while the tiger represents female protective yin energy.

Swimming koi carp gazing at the moon's reflection near a pine tree with roosting white cranes and are depicted on the other side and symbolize the concept of longevity — cranes are mythically believed to live for 1,000 years (koi, not so much). 

The other side of the gate has cranes and koi.

Finally, there’s the third gate. Be sure to pause in front of it and look up for the curious stone resembling half a peach perched on the back of three frogs. This object is known as the Dai Nghien, or Ink Slab. It was intentionally placed here by Van Sieu and ingeniously follows the Vietnamese lunar calendar. Like something out of a Dan Brown novel or perhaps an Indiana Jones adventure, the Pen Tower aligns with the sun every May 5 (which is, incidentally, Wally’s birthday) and casts its shadow upon the sacred stone. 

You can’t miss the bright red Huc Bridge, which leads to Ngoc Son Temple.

What the Huc?! Over the Red Bridge

Once Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the three gates, we crossed the graceful crimson painted wooden Huc Bridge, which arches over Hoan Kiem Lake, linking the shore with the islet. 

Wally and Vanessa pause en route to exploring the temple grounds.

Another gate separates the outside world from the interior realm of Ngoc Son Temple, known as the Dac Nguyen Lau, or Moon Reflection Pavilion. It was constructed in the Taoist style and has raised relief panels depicting the kylân, or lion-horse (often mistranslated as “unicorn”). This mythical hybrid animal symbolizes loyalty and power. To the left of the kylân is a tortoise carrying a book and a sword — representing strength and longevity. Both are suitable guardians for protecting the temple that lies beyond. 

Flowers and fruit are common offerings at Southeast Asian shrines.

Pagodas, Pavilions and Taxidermied Turtles, Oh My!

Inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. The upswept eaves of the terracotta-tiled rooftops are adorned with intricately carved dragons. Altars brim with offerings of fresh flowers, tea, fruit and money left by worshippers. 

In front of the Tran Ba, the main pavilion, is a massive cauldron-shaped incense burner with stylized dragon heads on either side. The smell of incense smoke is one of my strongest memories of Hanoi — its scent permeated the humid air at all hours of the day. Incense is considered to be a sacred bridge between the visible world of the living and the spiritual realm of heaven and the gods.

Doors leading into the temple

The scent of incense wafts through the air.

There are also braziers specifically designed for burning joss paper, colorful fake currency known as ghost or spirit money. These offerings are believed to provide material wealth to deceased relatives and friends as well as deities. 

Don’t miss the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle!

Today, the turtle and the sword are a symbol of Hanoi, and you’ll notice this iconography throughout the city — including the giant taxidermied tortoise on display inside the temple, which is rumored to be over 500 years old. Sadly, the lake’s last known resident tortoise passed into legend in 2016 due to pollution. 

Duke and Wally fell under the charm of the Hanoi Old Quarter.

A jade demon

A holy man

If you’d like a more authentic experience like we did, I’d recommended visiting Ngoc Son in the morning. You’ll find it buzzing with worshippers and locals who come to make their offerings before their workday. As one of the most-visited sights in the Old Quarter, it can become overrun with tourists by mid-afternoon. 

A gilded phoenix

Inside the temple

The entrance fee is a mere 3,000 dong or 13¢. To be respectful, consider covering your shoulders and knees before entering the temple. 

Be sure to come back to Hoam Kiem Lake at night to see the Tortoise Tower lit up.

I’d also recommend walking around the lake at night to see the Huc Bridge and Tortoise Tower shimmering reflected on the surface of the water. It’s enough to make you believe in magic. –Duke

 

Ngoc Son Temple
Đinh Tiên Hoàng
Hàng Trống
Hoàn Kiếm
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

The Charming Chaos of the Hanoi Old Quarter

How to navigate the endless stream of motorbike traffic, plus a history of the 36 Streets in Hanoi, Vietnam, which are divided up by the products they sell.

Women sitting outside on small stools at makeshift shops are a common sight in the Hanoi Old Quarter.

We trust our doctor to not only keep us healthy, but we often take his travel advice as well. When I told Dr. Slotten we were planning a week in Vietnam, he recommended we skip Ho Chi Minh City and instead fly in and out of Hanoi, with its utterly charming Old Quarter. Decision made. After all, often the best travel advice you can get is from people who have blazed the trail before you.

A gorgeous fruit market we stumbled upon

So, for us, there wasn’t any debate: We knew we wanted to stay in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, known as the Hoàn Kiếm District. We just didn’t quite know what we’d be getting into.

After the first day or so, Vanessa and Duke stopped being intimidated by the near-death experience of crossing the road — for the most part.

How to Cross the Street in Hanoi

The first thing you need to know is how insane the traffic is. The narrow, winding streets are filled with motorbikes. A never-ending stream of motorbikes. This makes something as simple as crossing the street a near-death experience. 

Some vendors take their shops on the road.

As a pedestrian, you can’t wait for a break in traffic to cross the street — you’ll be waiting forever. Literally. 

So here’s what you have to do: Take a deep breath and step out into traffic. Don’t focus on the fact that there are swarms of motorbikes heading in your direction. Take slow, deliberate steps. It’s like a school of fish: Somehow — thankfully! miraculously! magically! — the motorbikes will swerve around you as you make your way across the street. 

I have a theory that you’d do just as well (or perhaps even be better off) closing your eyes, though I never tried it.

Motorbikes piled high with goods and passengers are a common sight in Vietnam.

We spent a few days in Hanoi and didn’t end up with any sort of injury from these constant death-defying street crossings (though our travel buddy, Vanessa, did get her heel clipped a couple of times). 

The Hanoi version of a shoe store.

The 36 Streets: A History of the Old Quarter in Hanoi

There are more modern sections of the capital city of Hanoi, with wider streets that can be even more alarming to cross since you have to vie with cars barreling toward you across multiple lanes. 

That’s bananas! Merchandise fills the sidewalks throughout the Old Quarter.

But no trip to Hanoi is complete without an exploration of the Old Quarter. The area first became known as a place of craftsmanship and commerce during the Ly Dynasty (1010-1225), when Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital to Hanoi. Artisans followed the imperial entourage to the new city and set up shop in the shadow of the new palace, forming guilds to protect their best interests. In fact, what's now the Old Quarter was enclosed behind thick rampart walls with massive wooden gates until well into the 19th century.

Songbirds in cages were music to our ears.

The winding streets are densely packed with long, narrow shops — a ploy to avoid high taxes — with merchandise spilling out onto the sidewalk. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is known as the 36 Streets, though in truth these were more like small neighborhoods, often housing people from the same village who had learned a traditional trade. Each neighborhood’s name began with the word “Hang,” which can be defined as “shop,” and had a temple or communal house known as a dinh dedicated to its patron spirit. 

Wally and Duke called this stretch Tin Pan Alley.

Navigating these twisting streets can be quite a challenge. I typically have a better sense of direction than Duke, but I was perpetually lost in the Old Quarter. Somehow Duke was able to keep landmarks in his head. We’d be wandering for a while, and then he’d say, “If we turn right at that shop with all the gravestone markers, it’s a straight shot to the hotel.” And I would just shake my head in amazement and be glad that one of us was able to find our way back.

Colorful fruit on sale — some types we hadn’t seen before

I spent quite a bit of time trying to discover a list of the original 36 Streets, without much luck. Then I learned that the 36 might be an abstract concept. In Eastern philosophy, the number nine represents the concept of abundance. Multiply that by the four cardinal directions, and you get 36.

The currency of Vietnam is actually the dong — which always made Wally and Duke giggle when they asked, “How many dongs is that?”

I know why the caged bird sings.

The fish market was filled with blood and guts.

Some of the streets are still dedicated to their original goods, though most have adapted to more modern products as the centuries have passed by. And the winding streets are now further subdivided so that there are currently 76. 

Before we knew what was happening, a woman had the hat on Duke’s head and was positioning the pole on his shoulder. So, we ran with it, took a picture and gave her some money.

The narrow buildings lean against each other, looking like they’re about to topple over like dominos.

Unable to find a trustworthy list of the 36 Streets, I’ve cobbled this one together from a few sources. Don’t view it as the authoritative record — but here are some of the guilds, featuring the area’s name, what it originally sold, and where possible, what it now offers:

1. Hang Bac: Silver — now jewelry

2. Hang Bat: Glazed terracotta ware

3. Hang Be: Rafts

4. Hang Bo: Bamboo baskets — now haberdashery (small items for sewing, including buttons, zippers and ribbons)

5. Hang Bong: Cotton products, such as blankets and pillows

6. Hang Buom: Sails — now imported foods, alcohol and sweets

7. Hang Chai: Bottles and other recycled goods

8. Hang Chieu: Sedge mats — now mats, rope and bamboo blinds

9. Hang Cot: Bamboo lattices

10. Hang Da: Leather

11. Hang Dan: Stringed instruments

12. Hang Dao: Fabric, including silk

13. Hang Dau: Oil — now shoes

14. Hang Dieu: Pipes — now cushions and mattresses

15. Hang Dong: Copper

16. Hang Duong: Sugar — now clothes and general goods

17. Hang Ga: Chicken, duck and pigeon meat

18. Hang Gai: Hemp goods — now silk, tailoring and souvenirs

19. Hang Giay: Paper and shoes

20. Hang Hai: Shoes

21. Hang Hom: Wooden chests — now glue, paint and varnish

22. Hang Khay: Trays

23. Hang Luoc: Combs

24. Hang Ma: Paper votive objects — now paper goods

25. Hang Mam: Pickled fish

26. Hang May: Rattan goods

27. Hang Muoi: Salt

28. Hang Non: Hats

29. Hang Quat: Ceremonial fans — now religious accessories

30. Hang Than: Charcoal

31. Hang Thiec: Tin goods — now tin goods and mirrors

32. Hang Thung: Barrels

33. Hang Tre: Bamboo

34. Hang Trong: Drum skin — now bag mending and upholstery

35. Hang Vai : Fabric — now bamboo ladders

36. Hang Voi: Limes

What kind of person will this little tyke grow up to be? Depends on what neighborhood they grow up in!

Hanoians are said to associate a person’s character based on which area of the Old Quarter they live in. For instance, men from Hang Bac, known for its silversmiths, are polite and elegant, while women from Hang Dao, where silk is sold, are known for their charm and beauty. 

While we were in Hanoi, we stayed at the Prince II Hotel in Hang Giay, known for paper and shoes. I wonder what that makes us. –Wally

Much of the Old Quarter feels a bit run-down.

Flower vendors selling their fragrant wares from the back of their bikes

We knew we were near our hotel when we passed this gravestone maker. Hang Mam, once Pickled Fish Street, now sells marble headstone markers with a picture of the deceased.

Paper lanterns are on sale along Hang Ma, or Votive Paper Street.

Wally and Duke felt like babes in Toyland.

Plastic bags stuffed with stuffed animals — some of which just might end up at a carnival near you!

Many people in the Old Quarter spend all day sitting out on the sidewalk, beginning with a pot of pho for breakfast.

Fresh veggies can be bought out of baskets on the street.

This sign cracked us up every time we passed it.