6 of the Best Glamping Spots in the U.S.

Glamping destinations with luxury amenities in gorgeous natural settings, including Safari West and Ventana Big Sur.

Glam + camping = glamping! Who says you need to rough it while you’re enjoying the Great Outdoors?

Ah, nature. Whether it’s the chirping of birds, the meandering of a crystal-clear stream or sleeping under the stars, there’s a reason it's called the Great Outdoors. But for those of you who wish to experience Mother Nature but not forgo luxury, why not go for a glamping spree? Enjoy the delights of camping — without an uncomfortable night’s sleep or communal bathrooms.

Here are my favorite glamping destinations in the U.S.:

Giddyup! The Resort at Paws Up is set on a working dude ranch.

1. The Resort at Paws Up, Greenough, Montana 

Located outside Missoula in central Montana, this authentic working dude ranch and resort occupies an astounding 37,000-acres of unspoiled wilderness. Ride a chuck wagon, fly-fish on the Blackfoot River or watch the breathtaking sunsets after a spa treatment. 

The property boasts luxurious accommodations and amenities including six campsites with safari-style tents featuring fine linens, electricity, private en-suite bathrooms with rain showers and jet tubs. There’s even an onsite butler who caters to your every whim.  

Rustic chic interiors include en-suite bathrooms. Oh, and if you need something, just ring for the butler.

Features

• Adventure activities like cattle wrangling, horse riding, kayaking, mountain biking and fishing in the Blackfoot River are popular here. 

• Or just relax in the spa tents, surrounded by the sounds of birds, cool breezes and good vibes.

They don’t call Safari West “the Sonoma Serengeti” for nothing.

2. Safari West, Santa Rosa, California

This 400-acre private wildlife preserve supports the conservation of 1,000 exotic animals and birds. Creatures that span the entire African continent are the draw at this top-notch safari resort, dubbed “the Sonoma Serengeti.” The luxury tents, imported from Botswana, include a private viewing deck, an en-suite bathroom, vintage furniture, king-sized beds, hardwood floors and other “essential” amenities.

Take a safari right in California and stay in African tents that have bathrooms and viewing decks.

Features

• Who says you need to go to Africa to go on a safari? At Safari West you can spot giraffes, rhinos, cheetahs, lemurs, zebras, a gorgeous big cat called a caracal and dozens of other species.

• Enjoy regional delicacies at the Savannah Café and fill your tummy with delicious food.

Pair a trip to the famous national park with a glamping trip to Collective Yellowstone.

3. Collective Yellowstone, Big Sky, Montana

Located about an hour west of the park’s boundaries beneath Lone Peak, this stunning retreat connects guests with their natural surroundings while providing them with luxurious comforts. Each teepee-like tent is outfitted with a king-size bed, electricity, a wood-burning stove, a full bathroom and a chandelier. You won’t have to think about a thing at this glamping hotspot famous for its sunsets and forest safari, as their dedicated concierges will attend to your every need. Oh, and there’s a nightly communal campfire with s’mores. 

Keep warm inside the teepee-like tents, which feature wood-burning stoves.

Features

• The glamping sites featuring a private deck fill up fast — be sure to book in advance.

• World-class chefs offer dishes at any time of day to be consumed with gorgeous views. 

Amazing redwoods surround the Ventana glamping resort.

4. Ventana, Big Sur, California

Walk among the massive redwoods or stare out at the ocean along the rugged Pacific coastline. This resort, part of the Alila family, occupies 160 acres, and its 15 luxury glamping tents include modern amenities like USB ports (so you can charge those phones!), hot and cold running water as well as nightly turndown service with hot cocoa and hot-water bottles to warm your sheets.

Take a dip in the pool when you’re not hanging out in your luxury tent or exploring the environs.

 Features 

• The campground is situated along a redwood canyon. Each glamping spot includes a deck with two firepits: one wood-burning, one propane.

• Try your hand at falconry, getting up close and personal with these birds that can dive at speeds over 240 mph. 

Ever wanted to play a real-live version of Oregon Trail — minus the dysentery? Rustle up some fun at Conestoga Ranch.

5. Conestoga Ranch, Garden City, Utah

If you like to glamp by a large body of water, consider this top-notch spot situated on the shores of the turquoise blue waters of Bear Lake. The 18-acre-long ranch calls to mind the Old West. Guests can choose from authentically styled Conestoga Wagons, or cozy traditional family tents each outfitted with soft beds and fresh linens. The Grand Family Tents feature en-suite bathrooms. 

Circle up the wagons! This glamping resort offers a one-of-kind experience.

 Features

• There’s something for everyone. Want a romantic getaway? Try the Royal or Grand Tents, which include bathrooms. Family and friends can stay in the same vicinity as part of the Circle the Wagons package.

• Spend your days exploring the area on complimentary cruiser bikes or playing volleyball, lawn games, ping-pong or air hockey. You can even get a s’mores kit delivered to your wagon.

If you’ve always wanted to stay in a treehouse, there’s an amazing one at Moose Meadow Lodge.

6. Moose Meadow Lodge & Treehouse, Waterbury, Vermont

For a different take on glamping, satisfy your childhood dream of staying in a treehouse. And what a treehouse this is! It’s two stories of rustic chic, with a spiral staircase that wraps around a giant maple. Situated amidst more than 80 acres of lush mountains, this is a great spot to enjoy the tranquility of nature. 

The rustic chic interior of the treehouse, which wraps it way around a maple.

Features

• Of course your stay doesn’t have to be peaceful all the time. Catch an adrenaline rush with local outdoor activities, including skiing, biking and fishing. The less-sportif can spend a day antiquing.

• Enjoy the view from the Sky Loft, a mountaintop enclosed gazebo, or go for a winter wonderland adventure with complimentary snowshoes and sleds.

Camp in style as in this setup at Paws Up resort in Montana.

Happy Glampers 

This is the year to do your luxury travel a bit closer to home. For Americans in quarantine, the good news is that there are plenty of picturesque and fulfilling glamping experiences from the West Coast to the East Coast. Get the isolation of the outdoors without sacrificing any of the comforts of home. –Rebecca Siggers

When Was the Bible Written? Dating Genesis

The stories of Abraham, Jacob and Isaac in the Old Testament provide clues that, when paired with archaeological evidence, determine a date for when they would have happened.

Looking at the text of Genesis alongside archeological clues, scholars can make an informed guess as to when the events concerning Abraham and the other Old Testament patriarchs would have occurred.

In the beginning, God created the heaven and the earth…which in turn led to a debate about when the events of Genesis, the first book of the Bible, took place. There’s also a controversy about if the events took place as well, but Israel Finkelstein and Neil Asher Silberman, in their book The Bible Unearthed: Archaeology's New Vision of Ancient Israel and the Origin of Its Sacred Texts, wisely avoid that. The authors skip right over Adam, Eve, Cain, Abel, Noah, et al., jumping to the patriarch Abraham.

“What are the clues that the old way of dating Genesis was off by about 1,500 years?”

Until somewhat recently, biblical scholars landed on a date of about 2100 BCE for Abraham’s departure for Canaan. But Finkelstein and Silberman argue that archaeological evidence actually points to the events in Genesis matching up to the history of the 7th to 6th centuries BCE. What are these clues that the old way of dating Genesis was off by about 1,500 years?

Camel caravans, mentioned in Genesis, didn’t happen before the 8th century BCE.

Camels

As odd as it might seem, the camels mentioned throughout these stories reveal a major clue. Camels weren’t domesticated as beasts of burden in the ancient Near East until well after 1000 BCE. And caravans described as carrying gum, balm and myrrh in the Joseph story wouldn’t have been familiar until the Arabian trade flourished under the Assyrian Empire in the 8th and 7th centuries BCE.

The Philistine king of Gerar returns Sarah to Abraham.

The Philistines

These much-mentioned people of the Old Testament didn’t migrate from the Aegean or eastern Mediterranean until sometime after 1200 BCE. And it wasn’t until the late 8th and 7th centuries BCE that Gerar, identified today as Tel Haror, became a heavily fortified Assyrian administrative stronghold.

Jacob, described as an Aramean in Genesis, doles out his blessings to his male offspring, dividing up the land into the 12 tribes of Israel.

The Arameans

Arameans, who dominate the stories of Jacob and his two wives, Leah and Rachel, and his Uncle Laban, weren’t mentioned as a distinct ethnic group in ancient Near East texts until 1100 BCE or so. They became a dominant factor in the region in the early 9th century BCE. The history of early Israel and Aram are bound up together. In fact, “much of the population of the northern territories of the kingdom of Israel seems to have been Aramean in origin,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. Indeed, Jacob is even described at one point as “a wandering Aramean.” It wasn’t until the 9th to 8th centuries BCE that the two kingdoms created an official border. 

Fatherly deathbed blessings must have been common at the time. Here’s Isaac with his firstborn, Esau, who should have gotten his father’s birthright.

Jacob and Esau

In Genesis, Esau was the eldest son of Isaac, and by rights should have been given his father’s birthright. But his mother, Rebecca, preferred her younger son, Jacob, and tricked her husband into bestowing his blessing on Jacob instead. Even though that was a shady move, it explains how Israel and its people are God’s chosen people. Esau, a hunter and outdoorsman, represents the more primitive land of Edom, while Jacob, sensitive and cultured, represents Israel. The kingdom of Edom, in what’s now southern Jordan, didn’t exist until the late 8th century BCE, reaching a peak in the 7th and early 6th centuries BCE.

Judah, seen here tempted into sex with his disguised daughter-in-law Tamar (that’s a whole other story), got the best kingdom of the bunch from Jacob: the region that was home to what was then the small town of Jerusalem.

Judah

On his deathbed, Jacob doled out a bunch of blessings to his male offspring, who would disperse into the 12 tribes of Israel. But Judah was the one who received the royal birthright, described in Genesis 49:8-10. The eponymously named kingdom of Judah remained isolated and sparsely populated until the 8th century BCE. Its capital was then a small, remote hill town with a name you might have heard before: Jerusalem. 

“Yet after the northern kingdom of Israel was liquidated by the Assyrian empire in 720 BCE, Judah grew enormously in population, developed complex state institutions, and emerged as a meaningful power in the region,” Finkelstein and Silberman write. “It was ruled by an ancient dynasty and possessed the most important surviving Temple to the God of Israel.” 

All of this evidence points to the fact that the rise of the people of Israel, including the famous patriarchs Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and Judah, would have lived around the 7th and 6th centuries BCE — and not 2100 BCE as previously theorized. –Wally

Ngoc Son, the Temple of the Jade Mountain, in the Hanoi Old Quarter

Enter the gates and cross the bright red Huc Bridge over Hoan Kiem Lake to explore this Hanoi tourist attraction and see the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle.

Ngoc Son, aka the Temple of the Jade Mountain, sits on an island in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, in the middle of Hanoi.

If you’re staying in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, and wandering its warren of narrow streets like we did, chances are you’ll eventually end up at Hoan Kiem Lake. The small body of water is located in the historic district and known as the Lake of the Restored Sword. Its name alludes to the mythical blade wielded by Emperor Le Loi, a powerful warrior credited with liberating Vietnam from Chinese rule in 1428. 

After finishing our breakfasts of toasted baguettes and instant coffee with condensed milk at the Prince II Hotel on our second day in the Old Quarter, Wally, our friend Vanessa and I headed out to visit Den Ngoc Son. One of the most-visited sites in Hanoi, the Temple of the Jade Mountain lies on a small islet off the northern shore of Hoan Kiem Lake. 

Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower, also sits in the middle of Hoan Kiem Lake, but isn’t accessible to tourists.

Thap Rua, Tortoise Tower

This is also where you’ll find the picturesque yet inaccessible landmark, Thap Ruá, or Tortoise Tower. The structure sits on a remote island in the center of Hoan Kiem Lake and was built in 1886 to memorialize the legend of General Le Loi and Kim Qui, the golden tortoise who’s believed to fiercely protect the magical sword of the Dragon King beneath the placid waters. 

One of the temple’s colorful shrines

According to historical documents within the temple grounds, Ngoc Son was established in 1841 and later renovated under the guidance of Confucian scholar-poet Nguyen Van Sieu in 1864. Its pavilions and pagoda-style shrines are dedicated to revered beings and enlightened teachers, including General Tran Hung Dao, who defeated the Mongols in the 13th century; La To, the patron saint of physicians; and scholar Van Xuong De Quan.

The first gates have Chinese characters upon them — one meaning happiness, one prosperity.

Three Is the Magic Number: Through the Tam Quan Gates

In Vietnamese culture, odd numbers bring luck and fortune, and perhaps that’s why most Vietnamese temples feature the traditional tam quan, or triple gate — which is the case at Ngoc Son. 

The first gate is decorated with two large red Chinese characters — happiness on the right, and prosperity on the left. I’d like to imagine that by walking through this portal, these attributes are bestowed upon those who make the pilgrimage to the temple. 

Just beyond and adjacent to the first gate is the Tháp Bút, a stone tower built in the shape of a traditional calligraphy brush, complete with nib. Erected by Nguyen Van Sieu, the totem-like monument is inscribed with the words “Tà thanh thiên,” which somehow carries this lengthy meaning: To write on the blue sky is to imply the height of a genuine and righteous person's determination and will.

The second gate has a tiger on one side, the symbol of female protection (e.g., tiger moms).

The second gate is embellished with colorful relief panels containing the Taoist symbols of yin and yang — a dragon and a tiger. The dragon represents male yang energy as power, wisdom and strength, while the tiger represents female protective yin energy.

Swimming koi carp gazing at the moon's reflection near a pine tree with roosting white cranes and are depicted on the other side and symbolize the concept of longevity — cranes are mythically believed to live for 1,000 years (koi, not so much). 

The other side of the gate has cranes and koi.

Finally, there’s the third gate. Be sure to pause in front of it and look up for the curious stone resembling half a peach perched on the back of three frogs. This object is known as the Dai Nghien, or Ink Slab. It was intentionally placed here by Van Sieu and ingeniously follows the Vietnamese lunar calendar. Like something out of a Dan Brown novel or perhaps an Indiana Jones adventure, the Pen Tower aligns with the sun every May 5 (which is, incidentally, Wally’s birthday) and casts its shadow upon the sacred stone. 

You can’t miss the bright red Huc Bridge, which leads to Ngoc Son Temple.

What the Huc?! Over the Red Bridge

Once Wally, Vanessa and I passed through the three gates, we crossed the graceful crimson painted wooden Huc Bridge, which arches over Hoan Kiem Lake, linking the shore with the islet. 

Wally and Vanessa pause en route to exploring the temple grounds.

Another gate separates the outside world from the interior realm of Ngoc Son Temple, known as the Dac Nguyen Lau, or Moon Reflection Pavilion. It was constructed in the Taoist style and has raised relief panels depicting the kylân, or lion-horse (often mistranslated as “unicorn”). This mythical hybrid animal symbolizes loyalty and power. To the left of the kylân is a tortoise carrying a book and a sword — representing strength and longevity. Both are suitable guardians for protecting the temple that lies beyond. 

Flowers and fruit are common offerings at Southeast Asian shrines.

Pagodas, Pavilions and Taxidermied Turtles, Oh My!

Inside you’ll find a mix of shrines and pavilions dedicated to various deities and philosophers. The upswept eaves of the terracotta-tiled rooftops are adorned with intricately carved dragons. Altars brim with offerings of fresh flowers, tea, fruit and money left by worshippers. 

In front of the Tran Ba, the main pavilion, is a massive cauldron-shaped incense burner with stylized dragon heads on either side. The smell of incense smoke is one of my strongest memories of Hanoi — its scent permeated the humid air at all hours of the day. Incense is considered to be a sacred bridge between the visible world of the living and the spiritual realm of heaven and the gods.

Doors leading into the temple

The scent of incense wafts through the air.

There are also braziers specifically designed for burning joss paper, colorful fake currency known as ghost or spirit money. These offerings are believed to provide material wealth to deceased relatives and friends as well as deities. 

Don’t miss the 500-year-old taxidermied turtle!

Today, the turtle and the sword are a symbol of Hanoi, and you’ll notice this iconography throughout the city — including the giant taxidermied tortoise on display inside the temple, which is rumored to be over 500 years old. Sadly, the lake’s last known resident tortoise passed into legend in 2016 due to pollution. 

Duke and Wally fell under the charm of the Hanoi Old Quarter.

A jade demon

A holy man

If you’d like a more authentic experience like we did, I’d recommended visiting Ngoc Son in the morning. You’ll find it buzzing with worshippers and locals who come to make their offerings before their workday. As one of the most-visited sights in the Old Quarter, it can become overrun with tourists by mid-afternoon. 

A gilded phoenix

Inside the temple

The entrance fee is a mere 3,000 dong or 13¢. To be respectful, consider covering your shoulders and knees before entering the temple. 

Be sure to come back to Hoam Kiem Lake at night to see the Tortoise Tower lit up.

I’d also recommend walking around the lake at night to see the Huc Bridge and Tortoise Tower shimmering reflected on the surface of the water. It’s enough to make you believe in magic. –Duke

 

Ngoc Son Temple
Đinh Tiên Hoàng
Hàng Trống
Hoàn Kiếm
Hà Nội 100000
Vietnam

The Charming Chaos of the Hanoi Old Quarter

How to navigate the endless stream of motorbike traffic, plus a history of the 36 Streets in Hanoi, Vietnam, which are divided up by the products they sell.

Women sitting outside on small stools at makeshift shops are a common sight in the Hanoi Old Quarter.

We trust our doctor to not only keep us healthy, but we often take his travel advice as well. When I told Dr. Slotten we were planning a week in Vietnam, he recommended we skip Ho Chi Minh City and instead fly in and out of Hanoi, with its utterly charming Old Quarter. Decision made. After all, often the best travel advice you can get is from people who have blazed the trail before you.

A gorgeous fruit market we stumbled upon

So, for us, there wasn’t any debate: We knew we wanted to stay in Hanoi’s Old Quarter, known as the Hoàn Kiếm District. We just didn’t quite know what we’d be getting into.

After the first day or so, Vanessa and Duke stopped being intimidated by the near-death experience of crossing the road — for the most part.

How to Cross the Street in Hanoi

The first thing you need to know is how insane the traffic is. The narrow, winding streets are filled with motorbikes. A never-ending stream of motorbikes. This makes something as simple as crossing the street a near-death experience. 

Some vendors take their shops on the road.

As a pedestrian, you can’t wait for a break in traffic to cross the street — you’ll be waiting forever. Literally. 

So here’s what you have to do: Take a deep breath and step out into traffic. Don’t focus on the fact that there are swarms of motorbikes heading in your direction. Take slow, deliberate steps. It’s like a school of fish: Somehow — thankfully! miraculously! magically! — the motorbikes will swerve around you as you make your way across the street. 

I have a theory that you’d do just as well (or perhaps even be better off) closing your eyes, though I never tried it.

Motorbikes piled high with goods and passengers are a common sight in Vietnam.

We spent a few days in Hanoi and didn’t end up with any sort of injury from these constant death-defying street crossings (though our travel buddy, Vanessa, did get her heel clipped a couple of times). 

The Hanoi version of a shoe store.

The 36 Streets: A History of the Old Quarter in Hanoi

There are more modern sections of the capital city of Hanoi, with wider streets that can be even more alarming to cross since you have to vie with cars barreling toward you across multiple lanes. 

That’s bananas! Merchandise fills the sidewalks throughout the Old Quarter.

But no trip to Hanoi is complete without an exploration of the Old Quarter. The area first became known as a place of craftsmanship and commerce during the Ly Dynasty (1010-1225), when Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital to Hanoi. Artisans followed the imperial entourage to the new city and set up shop in the shadow of the new palace, forming guilds to protect their best interests. In fact, what's now the Old Quarter was enclosed behind thick rampart walls with massive wooden gates until well into the 19th century.

Songbirds in cages were music to our ears.

The winding streets are densely packed with long, narrow shops — a ploy to avoid high taxes — with merchandise spilling out onto the sidewalk. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is known as the 36 Streets, though in truth these were more like small neighborhoods, often housing people from the same village who had learned a traditional trade. Each neighborhood’s name began with the word “Hang,” which can be defined as “shop,” and had a temple or communal house known as a dinh dedicated to its patron spirit. 

Wally and Duke called this stretch Tin Pan Alley.

Navigating these twisting streets can be quite a challenge. I typically have a better sense of direction than Duke, but I was perpetually lost in the Old Quarter. Somehow Duke was able to keep landmarks in his head. We’d be wandering for a while, and then he’d say, “If we turn right at that shop with all the gravestone markers, it’s a straight shot to the hotel.” And I would just shake my head in amazement and be glad that one of us was able to find our way back.

Colorful fruit on sale — some types we hadn’t seen before

I spent quite a bit of time trying to discover a list of the original 36 Streets, without much luck. Then I learned that the 36 might be an abstract concept. In Eastern philosophy, the number nine represents the concept of abundance. Multiply that by the four cardinal directions, and you get 36.

The currency of Vietnam is actually the dong — which always made Wally and Duke giggle when they asked, “How many dongs is that?”

I know why the caged bird sings.

The fish market was filled with blood and guts.

Some of the streets are still dedicated to their original goods, though most have adapted to more modern products as the centuries have passed by. And the winding streets are now further subdivided so that there are currently 76. 

Before we knew what was happening, a woman had the hat on Duke’s head and was positioning the pole on his shoulder. So, we ran with it, took a picture and gave her some money.

The narrow buildings lean against each other, looking like they’re about to topple over like dominos.

Unable to find a trustworthy list of the 36 Streets, I’ve cobbled this one together from a few sources. Don’t view it as the authoritative record — but here are some of the guilds, featuring the area’s name, what it originally sold, and where possible, what it now offers:

1. Hang Bac: Silver — now jewelry

2. Hang Bat: Glazed terracotta ware

3. Hang Be: Rafts

4. Hang Bo: Bamboo baskets — now haberdashery (small items for sewing, including buttons, zippers and ribbons)

5. Hang Bong: Cotton products, such as blankets and pillows

6. Hang Buom: Sails — now imported foods, alcohol and sweets

7. Hang Chai: Bottles and other recycled goods

8. Hang Chieu: Sedge mats — now mats, rope and bamboo blinds

9. Hang Cot: Bamboo lattices

10. Hang Da: Leather

11. Hang Dan: Stringed instruments

12. Hang Dao: Fabric, including silk

13. Hang Dau: Oil — now shoes

14. Hang Dieu: Pipes — now cushions and mattresses

15. Hang Dong: Copper

16. Hang Duong: Sugar — now clothes and general goods

17. Hang Ga: Chicken, duck and pigeon meat

18. Hang Gai: Hemp goods — now silk, tailoring and souvenirs

19. Hang Giay: Paper and shoes

20. Hang Hai: Shoes

21. Hang Hom: Wooden chests — now glue, paint and varnish

22. Hang Khay: Trays

23. Hang Luoc: Combs

24. Hang Ma: Paper votive objects — now paper goods

25. Hang Mam: Pickled fish

26. Hang May: Rattan goods

27. Hang Muoi: Salt

28. Hang Non: Hats

29. Hang Quat: Ceremonial fans — now religious accessories

30. Hang Than: Charcoal

31. Hang Thiec: Tin goods — now tin goods and mirrors

32. Hang Thung: Barrels

33. Hang Tre: Bamboo

34. Hang Trong: Drum skin — now bag mending and upholstery

35. Hang Vai : Fabric — now bamboo ladders

36. Hang Voi: Limes

What kind of person will this little tyke grow up to be? Depends on what neighborhood they grow up in!

Hanoians are said to associate a person’s character based on which area of the Old Quarter they live in. For instance, men from Hang Bac, known for its silversmiths, are polite and elegant, while women from Hang Dao, where silk is sold, are known for their charm and beauty. 

While we were in Hanoi, we stayed at the Prince II Hotel in Hang Giay, known for paper and shoes. I wonder what that makes us. –Wally

Much of the Old Quarter feels a bit run-down.

Flower vendors selling their fragrant wares from the back of their bikes

We knew we were near our hotel when we passed this gravestone maker. Hang Mam, once Pickled Fish Street, now sells marble headstone markers with a picture of the deceased.

Paper lanterns are on sale along Hang Ma, or Votive Paper Street.

Wally and Duke felt like babes in Toyland.

Plastic bags stuffed with stuffed animals — some of which just might end up at a carnival near you!

Many people in the Old Quarter spend all day sitting out on the sidewalk, beginning with a pot of pho for breakfast.

Fresh veggies can be bought out of baskets on the street.

This sign cracked us up every time we passed it.

 

Spicy Old Fashioned Recipe

Ancho Reyes is the secret ingredient that will give this rye classic cocktail the kick you never knew it needed. 

Our old fashioned with a kick is inspired by a trip we took to Mexico City.

Here’s a typical scenario over dinner:

Duke and l take a few bites, then: “This is good. But it’d be better if…” I’ll dart into the kitchen and come back with sriracha, hot sauce or red pepper flakes. We sprinkle it on our meal and nod in agreement. “Much better!”

That’s my way of saying that Duke and I have gotten to the point where we prefer pretty much everything to be spicy — and that now extends to our cocktails. 

We first discovered the wonder of Ancho Reyes during our stay at the Ignacia Guest House in Mexico City. Every evening around twilight they’d have a happy hour, featuring a different cocktail and some nibblies. (This is when we first tried crickets, which is a whole other story — though I bet I would’ve liked them more if they were spicy!) 

On a couple of nights, the drinks the hotel served had a delightful kick. When Duke asked what was in them, we heard, “Ancho Reyes,” but had no idea what it was — or that it would soon become one of our favorite boozes. This spicy liqueur is crafted from ancho chilies, which are dried and smoked poblano peppers. 

Here’s how Wine Enthusiast describes Ancho Reyes: “Caramel-y brown in the glass, look for a lightly herbaceous aroma similar to root beer and rounded flavors that mix caramel and cocoa with raisin and cinnamon heat, with a faint smokiness on the finish.” I’m no connoisseur, but that sounds like a lot of pretentious prattle to me. Just know it’s got a bit of a kick and would be great to add to a margarita or, as Duke and I have been whipping up of late, an old fashioned. 

Equal parts rye and Ancho Reyes figure into this spicy old fashioned — and don’t forget the orange bitters.

Spicy Old Fashioned Ingredients

• 1 shot Ancho Reyes

• 1 shot rye

• ⅓ shot simple syrup 

• 4 dashes orange bitters

• 1 dash aromatic bitters 

Add all of the ingredients to a cocktail shaker, then fill with ice. (I double the recipe to do two at once.) Give it a good shake, shake, shake, and pour over ice — preferably one nice big square cube. 

Garnish with a slice of orange peel. 

If there’s one ingredient you can skip it’s the bitters. I just add a dash cuz I feel bad for it. Really, the orange bitters are all you need. 

Duke likes Bulleit, while I prefer Old Overholt — a highly rated rye at a great price.

If you’re out of rye, bourbon will do. 

Make a couple of these and put on a British murder mystery. You may never want another kind of old fashioned again. –Wally

Habiba Gallery in Luxor: Fair Trade Handicrafts

This charming shop in the Luxor souk sells gorgeous items made by local women’s collectives.

If you’re staying in Luxor, be sure to stop into Habiba Gallery to pick up some local handicrafts — and say hi to Linda, who owns the shop.

Wally and I have never met a souk we didn’t like. As our time in Luxor neared its end, we made arrangements with the concierge at our amazing hotel, Al Moudira, to take us across the Nile to shop for souvenirs.

We arrived about 20 minutes later, outside the atmospheric pavilion that serves as the tourist market of Luxor. You’ll know you’re there when you see the massive louvered wooden pergola flanked by a pair of smaller pergolas and the name El-Souk emblazoned above the entrance. For a moment I felt like we were stepping into the city’s past as horse-drawn carriages trotted by while I was taking a photo. 

“The shelves of Habiba are lovingly stocked with curated goods that represent the vast array of Egypt’s cultural richness and craft heritage.

Local producers, many of them women, are supported through the principles of fair trade, providing a path to economic self-sufficiency. ”

Beneath the latticework archway lies the entrance to the Luxor souk — just be careful of the horse and carriages.

Inside the pedestrian-friendly bazaar are merchants selling spices and shops selling scarves, djellabas, trinkets, alabaster, statuettes and more. It wasn’t exactly bustling — we were there on a Sunday, and as Luxor has a large Coptic Christian population, many stalls were closed — but that was fine by me. 

After haggling at a few stalls in the market, our eyes lit up when we spotted Habiba Gallery, located on Andrawes Pasha, a side street running off the main souk. Wally and I have always had a passion for handicrafts, and the shop came highly recommended by Zeina Aboukheir, the “boss lady” proprietor of Al Moudira. 

A playful textile depicting village life, including a watermelon vendor and colorful birds in a cage

UnCommon Threads: Every item Has A Story

As we excitedly began to collect items we wanted to buy, Linda Wheeler, an Australian expat and the owner of Habiba Gallery, began sharing the stories behind the pieces. One of the first of many to catch our eye were a group of earthenware pottery. It was difficult to choose between the unique handmade pieces, but ultimately we settled upon a couple of plates, and a serving vessel in the shape of a cow. 

Duke and Wally couldn’t resist this dish shaped like a cow — at least they think it’s shaped like a cow.

Linda explained to us that the handmade pottery came from Tunis, a small village located in the Fayoum Oasis. The pieces were made by the former students of Swiss-born ceramicist Evelyne Porret. In 1989, Evelyne and her husband, Michel, established a pottery school to mentor and nurture the talents of the children of Tunis. Like Linda, Evelyne and Michel laid the foundation for locals to embrace an entrepreneurial spirit, and many of their students now run small businesses of their own.

Fun natural patterns adorn the plates we bought. The prices at Habiba are fair — no haggling necessary!

The next item was a supersized, Egyptian cotton hammam towel or blanket from Naquadah, a predominantly Coptic village located on the West Bank of the Nile River just south of Luxor. The fine textiles are woven by the local women, who have preserved the traditional craft of manual looming — practiced there since pharaonic times. 

Linda told us how her conversations with the producer of these textiles eventually led to the subtle variation in style we saw before us. We chose one with a simple deep blue striped pattern and hand-knotted fringe. 

This was quickly followed by a brightly colored embroidered textile with a whimsical scene depicting village life and a tote bag with a block-printed fly pattern. No one can deny a fly’s persistence, and the Ancient Egyptians viewed this trait as a positive attribute. Pharaohs were known to have presented military personnel with a golden fly amulet to acknowledge an individual’s success and tenacity. We now better understood the impressive necklace with three flies on it that we had seen at the Luxor Museum.

Wally regaled Linda with a story about how I was unable to exercise discipline when it came to negotiating — in fairness, I had caved rather easily at the shop we visited beforehand, but I was not going to leave Egypt without a few rather authentic-looking objects. Linda diplomatically replied, “Well, if you love them, then it was worth it. And if you think you’re getting a good deal, then that’s OK.”

The shelves of the shop are lovingly stocked with curated goods that represent the vast array of Egypt’s cultural richness and craft heritage. Local producers, many of them women, are supported through the principles of fair trade, providing a path to economic self-sufficiency. 

Whimsical hand-painted wooden spindle dolls reminded Duke of Japanese kokeshi.

One of the refreshing things about Habiba is that everything is clearly marked, so there’s no need to ask for the price or haggle. Linda was never pushy and allowed us to peruse the shop at our own pace. After about 20 minutes, we had a large stack piled on the counter — quite a few things for ourselves as well as presents for family and friends.

Linda, an Aussie expat, started Habiba with a sewing machine and a dream. The shop now showcases gorgeous handicrafts made by women’s collectives in Egypt.

The Story of Habiba and Its Goal of Female Empowerment

It all started when Linda brought her trusty sewing machine with her to Luxor. 

“The idea was to impart my simple skills and love of sewing onto the ladies in Karnak,” Linda says. “Some were widowed, divorced or illiterate, and I hoped to encourage them to make their own clothing. But this was a daunting task, so I reverted to beadwork, a traditional technique familiar to the women, and discovered they were happy to apply their skills to smaller items such as accessories.”

Wanting to find a way to improve these marginalized women’s livelihoods and provide them with a sustainable source of income, Linda decided to open a shop to sell their products. She chose Habiba, the Arabic word for “beloved,” and, with the help of Abd el Shafy, who assisted with the maze of bureaucracy, her dream came true. 

Habiba is filled with beautiful handicrafts like these wooden boxes with geometric mother of pearl marquetry.

At first, the shop didn’t offer a large range of items. “I borrowed a black jalabiya and headscarf and set out with my friend Sahar to find additional handicrafts,” Linda says. “Being a traveller, the thought excited me, and what better reason to see the country and meet the local community? I’ve been to the Siwa Oasis, Sinai Peninsula, Western Desert, Aswan, Fayoum Oasis and El-Mahalla.”

She also partnered with Fair Trade Egypt. “I would travel to the source to see how the product was made and who was involved,” Linda explains. “Meaningful relationships were formed, and over time we’ve developed new ideas with them.”

Technology has improved communication and social customs have relaxed, so Linda no longer needs to modestly cover herself in native garb when she travels around Egypt. 

Linda’s favourite site in Luxor is Karnak Temple. “I will walk through to the offering room, past those huge columns, and then on to the sanctuary of Sekhmet at the Temple of Ptah. It’s my place for grounding,” she says. So it’s fitting that she has helped to establish a workshop space in Karnak named Hands of Habiba, where the women are learning to become independent.

“For me, being a shop owner isn’t entirely about the money,” Linda says. “It’s about sharing the comments of our happy customers with the artisans. My life here has been about the women and the love and support that we give to each other. Living in Egypt is a simple life: buying local, living local and supporting local. The people make the experience — so friendly and always willing to give you their time.”

Her time in Luxor amongst the locals just might have influenced her, as we found Linda to be a delight. If you’re in this part of Egypt, be sure to stop into Habiba and purchase something (or some things) to take back with you, knowing that you’re helping empower Egyptian women. –Duke

“My life here has been about the women and the love and support that we give to each other.

Living in Egypt is a simple life: buying local, living local and supporting local. The people make the experience — so friendly and always willing to give you their time.”

— Linda Wheeler, owner, Habiba Gallery

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RELATED: Shopping in Egypt? Here’s what to expect — and how to get the best bargains.

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Habiba Gallery
opposite the exit gate to Luxor Temple
Andrawes Pasha Street
Luxor, Egypt

Sip and Savor at Seniman Coffee in Ubud

Looking for the best coffee in Bali? Check out this stylish coffeeshop and learn about third wave coffee — as well as what’s next in coffee culture.

Get your java fix in Ubud at the trendy Seniman Coffee Studio.

For Wally and me, one cup of coffee is never enough. And if you follow our blog — a big thank you to those who do — you’re probably already familiar with my borderline obsessive research when planning a trip. I like to find the hidden gems. 

Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud, Bali was one of those discoveries. I first read about them on Sprudge, a media network dedicated to global coffee culture. After reading contributing writer Evan Gilman’s vivid article, I was determined to seek out Seniman on our visit to the Indonesian island.

Seniman specializes in single-origin local coffee beans.

When we arrived at the café, tucked away at No. 5 on quiet Jalan Sri Wedari (jalan is the Indonesian word for street), I felt like we were in the know. Seniman Coffee Studio is clearly a popular spot. The café was buzzing with tourists, locals and digital nomads, a few who were working on their laptops or simply daydreaming — which isn’t hard to do once you find yourself perched on the open-air verandah after spending an afternoon exploring Ubud. 

The coffee flavor wheel…in Indonesian.

Reinventing the Wheel

Inside the café, a row of perfectly lit siphon coffee brewers looked like they belonged in a chemistry lab. To help you decide what to order, a hand-drawn coffee taster’s wheel diagram on the wall describes the flavor profile and intensity of each roast. Seniman specializes in light roast single-origin Indonesian coffees. I’m a fan, as this method allows the beans to retain moisture and oils, which in my opinion, yields a less acidic, more complex and aromatic cup.

Part of the current coffee culture is telling the story of each type of bean.

A Brief History of Coffee in Indonesia

Coffee was first introduced to Indonesia by the Dutch in 1699. Arabica coffee trees were imported and cultivated on estates in Java, giving rise to the Dutch East India Company and the coffee trade. Fast forward to what’s referred to as the third wave movement, where consumers have become interested in the provenance, production and experience that comes with enjoying a quality cup of coffee. Long gone are the days when the best part of waking up was Folger’s in your cup.

This graphic can help you figure out what to order.

In Indonesia, the third wave came down to the arrival of Starbucks, according to Rodney Glick, owner of Seniman. “Starbucks’ history in this country is completely different to its history in America, as by the time it entered the Indonesian market, the company was already 20 years old,” Glick explained. “Starbucks’ role wasn’t to champion Indonesian origins in Indonesia, but nevertheless it helped create consumer awareness that coffee comes from a place and not a sachet.”

The coffee industry has now moved into the fourth wave, or as Glick prefers to call it, the new wave. The focus is on telling the story of the entire coffee chain. “The coffee industry’s new wave encompasses innovative approaches, acknowledges traditional histories and celebrates regional differences,” he said. “More coffee stories are told by the producers themselves, entailing their own challenges and creative solutions.”

Take a break and get a caffeine fix along Jalan Sri Wedari.

Seniman: Our Spot in Ubud

On our first visit to Seniman, I tried an iced cascara, made from the dried leathery husks of coffee cherries, while Wally stuck with his old standby: an iced latte. A cascara sounded exotic, but to be honest I wasn’t the biggest fan. It’s a bit watered down, tasting closer to tea than coffee, and if you’re expecting a cup of coffee, cascara doesn’t cut it. On our two subsequent visits, I ordered the cold brew and wasn’t disappointed. 

The cascara was a bit too much like a weak tea for Duke’s tastes.

When you order, a wooden plank with three segments gets delivered to your table. One contained coffee, the second a glass of water in an upcycled green glass wine bottle with the bottom as a lid and a small vessel with simple syrup as a sweetener. In the space between, there was a sweet — my kind of place! 

The drinks come on colorful paddles with slots for simple syrup and a sweet treat.

Glick, an Australian expat, founded Seniman Industries in 2009 with the objective to create a laidback brand informed by the serious pursuit of coffee. Everything at Seniman Coffee Studio is artfully prepared and presented — and Glick is a sculptor himself — so it makes sense that in Bahasa Indonesian, seniman means “artist.” (Be sure to check out Glick’s interesting sculptures, which take contemporary figures and infuse them with Hindu and Buddhist elements.)

The siphons look like something out of a steampunk laboratory.

At Seniman, coffee is brewed manually by siphon, pour-over, chemex or hand-drawn espresso to extract the optimal flavor from the beans. The café doesn’t simply serve what many might consider the world’s best brew, they also offer classes and workshops to educate individuals interested in learning more about home brewing, roasting, cupping, espresso and latte milk art. The brand has a light, playful tone as evidenced by their ethos, emblazoned on their menu and T-shirts: Imagine You Know What You’re Doing.

What’s your interpretation of Seniman’s tagline?

When we asked Glick about the quirky tagline, he responded, “From experience, anyone that says they know what they’re doing should be kept at a distance!”

Buy coffee to go, T-shirts and other items at THCR across the street.

This Coffee’s in the Bag

Across the street is the roastery and shop THCR (Tetap Happy Coffee Roasters), which sports another amusingly confounding motto: Everything Happens to Everyone. You can purchase vacuum-sealed bags of whole beans, mugs and T-shirts to take home with you as a souvenir of Bali. Wally and I were both drawn to the color-blocked silver foil bags of single-origin beans with exotic names like Bali Kintamani, Papua Wamena and Sulawesi Toraja. 

Cool beans! Learn all about the coffee you purchase, as Seniman is part of the new wave.

“Seniman Coffee is an example of a new wave coffeeshop since we farm, produce and roast our own coffee, and we work on bringing out the positive attributes of beans from Bali,” Glick told us. “We farm and produce coffee through our sister company, Karana Spesialis Kopi. Additionally, we also source from major coffee regions in Indonesia: Gayo, West Java, Flores, Toraja and Papua.”

I purchased a couple bags of the Bali Karana Madu and one of the Papua Wamena. I actually liked it so much that I’ve ordered more and had it shipped to Chicago. 

Seniman and its sister company are involved in every step of the coffee production process.

Energized by our caffeine fix, Wally and I were ready to return to exploring the shops and avoiding the errant wild monkeys. 

Duke and Wally always find a local spot that acts as their base when they travel — and Seniman held that honor in Ubud.

We asked Glick how Ubud has changed since he’s been there. “More eateries and coffeeshops led by world-class artisans are opening up in Ubud, creating a very interesting mix of high-end international cuisine and local warung [the Indonesian word for shops],” he said. “Together it forms interesting collaborations and cross-pollination of ideas between expats and Indonesians.”

The one downside to iced lattes is that they’re not topped with fun art like these.

If you’re planning on visiting Ubud and are looking for a great cup of coffee, make sure to seek our the red circle with the sideways S. One sip and you’ll understand that Seniman doesn’t have to imagine they know what they’re doing — they already know. –Duke

 

Dog-gone it, if you’re a coffee connoisseur, you can’t miss Seniman in Ubud, Bali.

Seniman Coffee Studio
Jalan Sri Wedari No.5
Ubud, Bali
Indonesia

I Feel Like a Zombie Tiki Drink

Wally’s new favorite drink is a modern twist on a tiki classic, created by Chelsea Napper, bartender extraordinaire.

We just might have found you the perfect summertime cocktail: the I Feel Like a Zombie.

There’s just something so appealing about a tiki bar. All those masks and idols that are about as spooky as something out of a Scooby-Doo cartoon. The kooky glasses shaped like skulls or grimacing, bug-eyed faces. Those superstrong, fruity drinks that will knock you on your ass — some of which get set on fire! And, of course, the brightly colored garnishes, including cocktail umbrellas and bananas carved to look like dolphins.

So when you’re stuck at home (perhaps in the midst of a global pandemic) and the sun is shining and all vacations are canceled and you’re yearning for a bit of the tropics, consider whipping up a batch of I Feel Like a Zombies. 

Such was the case when we ordered a delicious tasting menu from Mr. Oiishi, a takeout and delivery concept launched during the coronavirus quarantine, where various chefs create their take on Asian comfort food. 

When we saw cocktail kits dreamed up by Chelsea Napper, bar director at Yugen in Chicago’s oh-so-trendy Randolph Street Corridor, we had to try one out. 

Napper says she came up with the drink by “thinking about the flavors of the classic zombie tiki cocktail but much more modern.”

Which got me thinking: What exactly is the drink version of a zombie, and where did it originate?

Heavy on the rum, with just the right amount of pineapple and grapefruit, chances are you’ll feel like a I Feel Like a Zombie again soon.

The History of the Zombie Cocktail

The first imbibable zombie was created by the appropriately named Donn Beach, the patron saint of tiki bars. He was so worried about someone stealing his recipe that he went to great lengths to keep the ingredients a secret — even from his own bartenders. The recipe, from 1934, consisted only of code numbers that corresponded to otherwise unlabeled bottles on his bar. Although many have tried to hunt down the exact recipe, there’s a good chance it has been lost to the ages (though Beachbum Berry has made it a lifelong quest to uncover the secret formula — and just might have succeeded). 

Beach is said to have referred to the zombie as “a mender of broken dreams” — and one so potent he wouldn’t serve more than two to a customer.

Everything you need to make this twist on the tiki classic, the zombie, including shrub and syrup.

I Feel Like a Zombie Recipe

Ingredients

• 1 ounce dark rum

• 1 ounce light rum

• 1 ounce pineapple cinnamon shrub

• 1 ounce grapefruit syrup

• 1 slice dehydrated grapefruit

“I recommend a light and dark rum for this cocktail, but if you’ve only got one or the other, that totally works,” Napper says.

Duke did some research and landed on Diplomático Reserva Exclusiva for dark rum and Plantation 3 Stars for light rum, which we picked up at our friendly neighborhood liquor store, Foremost in Uptown.

What the Heck’s a Shrub?

I had never heard of shrubs before. They’re also known by the unappetizing designation of “vinegar cordial.” The last time I knowingly drank vinegar was during a halfhearted attempt to pass a drug test for a summer job I didn’t want.

Shrubs are nonalcoholic syrups made of concentrated fruit, aromatics, sugar and, yes, vinegar.

Why are they called shrubs? Turns out the name is derived from the Arabic word sharab, meaning “to drink.” Shrubs were all the rage in Colonial America, when they were a tasty way to preserve fruit. Their popularity died out with the introduction of factory foods and home refrigerators but have resurged during the mixology revolution and rise of cocktail bars that like to have at least half of the ingredients in their $15 drinks be of obscure origin. 

Here’s a pineapple shrub recipe to try. And a general guide to making shrubs, stating that they typically follow a 1:1:1 ratio of fruit, sugar and vinegar.

Grapefruit Simple Syrup

As a big fan of sangria and old fashioneds, I’m familiar with simple syrup. This is essentially sugar water, so there’s no denying tiki drinks are on the sweet side — though it’s offset by the high amount of alcohol and the tartness of the vinegar.

Try this recipe for grapefruit syrup. 

Preparation

Once you’ve got everything you need, add the shrub and syrup to a cocktail shaker. Then add in the rum. 

Fill the shaker 3/4 of the way with ice and give it a good shake for about 10 seconds.

Strain and serve over fresh ice.

Garnish with a cocktail umbrella and dried grapefruit slice if you’re feeling fancy. Bonus points for serving in tiki glasses! –Wally

Why Are There Coyotes in Graceland Cemetery?!

Were coyotes introduced to get rid of the raccoons? And just how dangerous are the coyotes in Chicago?

They’re cute — and a bit frightening. But the coyotes in Graceland Cemetery in Chicago haven’t hurt anyone and keep to themselves. Photo by Adam Selzer

I never can resist a stroll through a graveyard. One winter day, I walked past the entrance of Graceland Cemetery at the intersection of Clark and Irving Park in Chicago. Before I even knew what I was doing, I found myself heading through the iron gates.

The cemetery is enormous and full of gorgeous old graves and mausoleums, some of which house the remains of famous Chicagoans, including the architect Louis Sullivan and the department store magnate Marshall Field.

Wally thinks this might have been the copse where the coyote made her den.

As I wandered around the pond at the northern end of the cemetery, I noticed movement out of the corner of my eye. A dark shape emerged from a cluster of brambles about 20 feet away, its brown fur in stark contrast to the whiteness of the snow-covered ground. The creature stared at me, then crouched a bit, its ears flattening, and slowly began to prowl in my direction. I realized this must be a coyote — people in Chicago talk about these creatures roaming the streets at night — and despite its inherent cuteness, I had no doubt it could inflict some serious damage. 

I was carrying a tote bag with my laptop inside, which I now desperately clutched like a weapon, ready to swing it at the beast if it decided to attack me. I backed away, slowly at first, so I could keep the coyote within my sights. Once I had gained some distance, I started running through the snow, finding one of the roads that led to the main entrance. 

Can you spot the coyote? These wild canines help curb populations of raccoons, rats and geese at Graceland Cemetery. Photo by Adam Selzer

Out of breath and slightly traumatized, I darted into the cemetery office near the front gate. A young man smiled at me as I shouted, “There’s a coyote in the cemetery!”

“Oh, yes,” he said calmly. “There’s more than one.”

I blinked at him, dumbfounded. I mean, I understand why cities would allow squirrels and bunnies and even deer to roam our green spaces — but why would it be OK to have large wild dogs running free? As insane as it sounds, there could be up to 4,000 coyotes in Chicago, according to NPR.

“In fact,” the young man continued, “the city brought the coyotes into the cemetery to eradicate the raccoon problem.”

This was getting stranger and stranger. It seemed to me that, in this case, the solution might be worse than the problem. 

“I might have been imagining things,” I said, “but it seemed as if it was pursuing me, like it might attack.”

He nodded. “There’s never been an attack in the cemetery, but she just had a litter and was protecting them.”

That being the case, it sure would have been nice to have a warning posted, something along the lines of: Caution! Keep a lookout for a mother coyote that could maul you because she feels you’re a threat to her babies. Enjoy your visit!

As strange as it might seem, it turns out coyotes are indeed fixtures within Chicago city limits and are, in the vast majority of cases, not a threat to our safety. There are, of course, exceptions to this rule, such as the 6-year-old boy who was bitten by a coyote near the Nature Museum — though who knows? The kid might have done something to instigate the attack.

There are typically three to five coyotes within the grounds of Graceland Cemetery. Photo by Adam Selzer

The Official Word on Coyotes at Graceland

Wanting to get to the bottom of this mystery, I reached out to Graceland’s staff to ask them about coyotes in the cemetery.

No one is sure of exactly how many coyotes are on the grounds, but employees estimate there are usually about three to five.

“The coyotes have never hurt anyone on the grounds and stay away from people,” says Jensen Allen, associate director at Graceland. “We do not allow people to feed them, which is usually what can cause animals to become accustomed to up-close human interactions.”

Did the city really introduce them to the cemetery to deal with the raccoon population?  

“We cannot verify whether they were brought into the city for any reason or not,” Allen says. “There are many stories out there, but we have heard from wildlife experts that this is not true per se. Coyotes have been part of the city for an extremely long time, and it is likely humans encroached upon their territories long ago and they have become used to surviving in urban areas.”

Either way, raccoons are more of an issue to people than the coyotes have ever been, she attests. “As I’m sure you know, raccoons are pretty fearless and will approach humans with no issue. We are thankful to our coyotes because they keep raccoons down as well as other vermin such as rats, mice, geese and any other troublesome wildlife animal.”

Our friend Sandy and her daughters visit Graceland often — and are always excited to see a coyote.

To learn more about coyotes (and be tempted to hold one of their cute little puppies — even though this is a very bad idea), check out the Urban Coyote Research Project. –Wally

 

Graceland Cemetery
4001 N. Clark St.
Chicago, IL 60613

Milk Bar Compost Cookies

Some people call them garbage cookies or kitchen sink cookies. While you’re baking up a storm at home, throw in whatever sweet and savory snacks that are near the bottom of the bag into this sinfully delicious dessert recipe.

Compost cookies: decadent and the perfect meeting of savory and sweet

It seems surreal now, as we move into the third month of our coronavirus quarantine. But back in early February, before the world screeched to a halt, I was in New York on a business trip and walked past one of Milk Bar’s locations, the sister bakery to the Momofuku restaurant group. It was around 9 p.m. and it was still hopping, so I decided not to go in. 

Since we won’t be going to NYC any time soon, I decided to make their famous compost cookies at home. You may wonder why they’re called compost cookies, or, alternately, garbage or kitchen sink cookies. Whatever you want to call them, there’s no denying how addictive and delicious they are. They’re the perfect marriage between satisfying my sweet tooth (with dark chocolate chunks and toffee bits) and Wally’s savory cravings (featuring one of his favorite snacks, potato chips). Although there are a lot of ingredients that go into these, what’s great about them is that you can easily incorporate and use up whatever you have on hand.

“Compost cookies are easy and comforting to make — an ideal recipe to add to your rotation, during, say, a global pandemic, especially if you’ve grown tired of making banana bread.”

It’s a great recipe for someone like my mom who’s known to throw random ingredients into her recipes. Compost cookies are easy and comforting to make — an ideal recipe to add to your rotation, during, say, a global pandemic, especially if you’ve grown tired of making banana bread.

Luckily for us, Christina Tosi, the award-winning chef, creative force and owner of Milk Bar, has graciously shared her recipes for their baked goods on their website. It seemed downright serendipitous when Tosi showed up as a guest judge on Nailed It! on Netflix as we were munching on the compost cookies I had baked.

I’ve made a couple of minor tweaks. The first batch I tried at the suggested temperature of 375°F came out more flat and crispy than I would like — Wally didn’t mind, but I can admittedly be a bit neurotic about these things. I don’t know if our oven is simply too hot, but I reduced the temperature to 350°F, and the baking time from 18 minutes to 12, with better results. 

The dough has so many bits and chunks in it — it’s seriously bonkers how many different things are in these cookies! For the best results, I recommend scooping out your dough with a 1½-inch-diameter cookie scoop and placing the balls in a resealable container in the freezer overnight. But if you can’t wait that long, a couple of hours will suffice. –Duke

Compost cookies are a fun take on chocolate chip cookies that pack in your favorite snacks.

Servings: 24 cookies

Active Time: 30 minutes 

Total Time: 2 hours, plus an optional overnight chill

Potato chips, toffee, chocolate, pretzels — throw in whatever you’ve got left in the pantry!

INGREDIENTS

• 16 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature 

• 1 cup granulated sugar

• ⅔ cup light brown sugar, tightly packed 

• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup

• 1 egg

• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

• 1⅓ cups flour

• ½ teaspoon baking powder

• ¼ teaspoon baking soda

• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

• ¾ cup chocolate chunks 

• ½ cup Heath toffee bits 

• ⅓ cup old-fashioned rolled oats

• 2½ teaspoons ground coffee

• 2 cups potato chips

• 1 cup mini pretzels 

The first step is mix up the ingredients that could be used for a graham cracker crust — though here they’ll just create the base for the cookie dough.

GRAHAM CRACKER “CRUST”

• 1½ cups graham cracker crumbs

• ¼ cup milk powder

• 2 tablespoons sugar

• ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 

• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature 

• ¼ cup heavy cream

The graham cracker “crust”

PREPARATION

Start with what Tosi calls a graham crust. I’m looking forward to trying this on the next Key lime pie I make, but here it’s used as a textural component in the cookies. Toss the graham cracker crumbs, milk powder, sugar and salt with your hands in a medium bowl to evenly distribute your dry ingredients.

Add the butter to the dry ingredients and toss again to evenly distribute. Then add the heavy cream. The butter and cream will act as a glue, adhering to the dry ingredients and turning the mixture into small pea-sized clusters. The crust should hold its shape if squeezed tightly in the palm of your hand. If it isn’t moist enough, mix in an additional 1 to 1½ tablespoons of butter.

Next, move onto the cookie dough. Combine the butter, sugars and corn syrup in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. I swear by my KitchenAid stand mixer, but an old-school hand mixer will work, too. Cream together the ingredients on medium-high for 2 to 3 minutes. Using a spatula, scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the egg and vanilla, and beat for 7 to 8 minutes more. 

Reduce the speed to low and add the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. I usually add this in batches to prevent the flour from flying out of the bowl. Mix until the dough comes together, no longer than 1 minute. (Do not walk away from the appliance during this step, or you will risk over-mixing the dough.) Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

Still on low speed, add the chocolate chunks, toffee bits, graham cracker crust, oats and coffee, and mix until just incorporated, about 30 seconds. Add the potato chips and pretzels, still on low speed, until just incorporated. When you’re adding the potato chips and mini pretzels, it’s best not to mix them too much; you want to retain irregular bits and pieces. That way you can taste the salty-sweetness of the cookie.

Duke recommends freezing the dough for better results — if you can stand the wait!

Using a 1½-inch-diameter cookie scoop, portion out the dough equally. I make a dome shape that’s flat on the bottom. Don’t bake your cookies at room temperature — they will end up flat like a pancake. Mine still came out pretty flat, but the longer I froze the dough, the more shape they kept. Place inside a resealable container and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or freeze overnight. 

A cookie scoop helps shape the dough.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Arrange pre-scooped cookie dough a minimum of 4 inches apart on parchment or silpat-lined sheet pans.

Bake for 12 minutes. The cookies will puff, crackle and spread. After 12 minutes, they should be golden-brown. Give them an extra minute or so if that’s not the case.

Cool the cookies completely on the sheet pans before transferring to a plate or an airtight container for storage. Wally learned this the hard way — he wanted to have these right out of the oven, but the cookies didn’t have enough time to solidify. At room temp, cookies will keep fresh for five days; in the freezer, they will keep for one month.

Call ’em what you will — compost, garbage, kitchen sink — but these Milk Bar-inspired cookies are delicious by any name.