Where’s the Best Breakfast in Puerto Vallarta?

Three of our favorite brunch restaurants — plus the best coffee in PV.

The offerings at our fave coffeeshop in PV, Puerto Café

Part of the fun of a trip for me is the research before. This includes looking for potential places to eat, especially breakfast. You know what they say: Breakfast is the most important meal of the day. 

Read on to find out our top recommendations for Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. 

“We jokingly lamented that we missed the Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. ”

Relax and enjoy a delicious and healthy(ish) breakfast at Cálmate Café. Wally got the chilaquiles.

1. Cálmate Café 

We ate here twice twice during our short stay in Puerto Vallarta, once for breakfast and once for lunch. Both times the food was delicious. Their menu offers a variety of healthy meal options as well as coffee, freshly squeezed juices and smoothies. 

We liked that it was outside of the main tourist tract and had a relaxed neighborhood vibe. The first time we had breakfast here, we arrived shortly after the streets had been washed. The cobblestones were still glistening in the sunlight, and we watched the morning unfold as we ate. The café lives up to its name, which can be translated as “take it easy.”

I ordered the eye- and mouth-pleasing yogurt and granola with fresh fruit and Wally ordered one of his go-tos: chilaquiles.

The outdoor seating area is small but cozy, and the servers were friendly. Plus, we got to pet a seemingly endless parade of dogs. 

Why sit in the crowded restaurant when you can dine on the sidewalk patio?

Cálmete Café
Calle Honduras 218
5 de Diciembre 
48350 Puerto Vallarta 

Fredy’s Tucán, a breakfast staple in the Zona Romántica

2. Fredy’s Tucán

Located on Basilio Badillo in the heart of the Zona Romántica, aka Old Town Puerto Vallarta (aka one of the most gay-friendly areas on the planet), this popular breakfast spot is a well-oiled machine. Fredy’s originally opened in 1983 as an open-air bar and evolved into the restaurant it is today. 

There’s a reason tourists flock here. The servers are attentive, the food is well-priced — and did I mention it’s also delicious? On offer for breakfast are waffles, omelets, pancakes and Mexican dishes like chilaquiles and huevos rancheros. Plus, how can you say no to the charming older man offering you a selection of freshly baked pastries to start your day?

When we left, satisfied and ready to explore, there was a queue outside to get in. Trust us, you won’t leave hungry. 

Fredy’s Tucán
Basilio Badillo 245
Emiliano Zapata
8380 Puerto Vallarta

When in doubt, order the breakfast sandwich.

3. Bistro at Casa Cupula

Nestled in the hills among the tropical greenery of the Amapas neighborhood of PV is the gay-owned, LGBTQ- friendly boutique hotel, Casa Cupola and its onsite restaurant, Bistro at Casa Cupola. The lush setting reminded me of our visit to the spectacular Botanical Gardens earlier in the trip. 

It’s a steep climb up Callejón de la Igualdad but certainly worth it. (You could also bypass the hike and catch an Uber or cab there.)

You enter through a separate entrance for the bistro, which is located farther up the road. We arrived shortly after the restaurant opened and were seated on the sun-dappled patio as ceiling fans spun lazily overhead. Our server was attentive and the food delicious. We felt like we were in our very own private hacienda. 

We jokingly lamented that we missed the hotel’s Naked Pool Party, which had taken place a couple of days before. 

A peaceful breakfast on the deck in the hills just outside of PV at Casa Cupola.

Bistro at Casa Cupola
Callejón de la Igualdad 129
Amapas
48398 Puerto Vallarta 

We liked the small medicinal-looking bottles the Puerto Café cold brew comes in so much we took one home.

4. Puerto Café 

Hands down, this was our favorite spot to get our caffeine fix. This hip, cozy coffeeshop serves the best coffee in town. It’s located on Calle Morelos, not far from the seaside Malecón promenade — kitty-corner from the black and white lighthouse they use in their logo. When we were there, someone had scrawled, “Fuck Digital Nomads” on the wall at the front of the space and good music spun on the turntable.

I loved their delicious (and potent) housemade cold brew coffee. Each serving comes in its very own small brown bottle like something a snake oil salesman would peddle. They also make a solid iced latte, which Wally enjoyed.

Part of what makes Puerto Café so special is the coffee they serve. All varieties are by Guadalajara-based Café Estelar, a specialty roaster that proudly works directly with regional producers to offer single-origin Mexican coffee beans. 

Just make sure to get there earlier in the day if you appreciate cold brew, as they produce it in limited batches daily and had run out on one of our visits. –Duke

With great local coffee and a cool vibe, Puerto Café is a fun spot to escape the heat and get your caffeine fix.

Puerto Café
Morelos 540
Proyecto Escola
Centro
48300 Puerto Vallarta

4 Unforgettable Experiences in Palm Cove, Australia

From fishing the Great Barrier Reef to exploring Daintree Rainforest, these activities in the Tropical North Queensland hotspot should be on your bucket list. 

Palm Cove is a great spot to base yourself when visiting Tropical North Queensland.

There’s something magical about Palm Cove. It’s known for its sleepy, almost dream-like environment, stunning landscapes and great weather all year round.

But there’s more to this village located 25 minutes away from Cairns Airport. The best thing about Palm Cove is that it’s a gateway to Tropical North Queensland’s most beloved spots. There are tons of different activities and exciting experiences that you really must try at least once before you die. Below are my absolute favorites:

“The best thing about Palm Cove is that it’s a gateway to Tropical North Queensland’s most beloved spots.”

Alexandra Falls at Cape Tribulation in Daintree Rainforest

1. Exploration of the Daintree Rainforest

If you have been to Queensland but you haven’t yet gone to the Daintree Rainforest, there’s a lot that you’ve been missing out on.

The Daintree Rainforest is one of the crown jewels not only of Tropical North Queensland, but also of the whole Land Down Under.

It’s listed as a World Heritage site and is thought to be the oldest jungle in the world. If only trees could talk, they could certainly tell just how cool it was to be around during the age of the dinosaurs. After all, Daintree would have basically been the real-life Jurassic Park!

Not everyone is allowed to go deep into this jungle and explore, but you can venture into a particular area of this massive rainforest: the Mossman Gorge. It’s relatively large in size, with an impressive 56,000-hectare area — but even that is still just a small fraction of the Daintree Rainforest.

Nevertheless, there is still an abundance of activities that you can partake in at the Mossman Gorge, including snorkeling in the river and participating  in a traditional smoking ceremony of the Kuku Yalanji tribe. You can also join other tours of the rainforest, conducted by friendly and professional guides.

Clownfish aren’t going to be catches of the day if you go fishing at the Great Barrier Reef.

2. Fishing expedition at the Great Barrier Reef

Near the Daintree Rainforest is another World Heritage site: the Great Barrier Reef. This wondrous locale is most well known for its crystal clear and calm waters, beautiful corals, and fantastic diving and snorkeling spots.

But aside from seeing the beauty of the underwater world up close and personal, you can also test out your angler skills at the Great Barrier Reef, as several fishing charter trips are offered there. One of the most popular charter trips is the one offered by Cairns Marlin Marina.

Book a fishing charter out of Cairns Marlin Marina.

It’s a fishing trip that’s suitable for all levels of anglers. The club will take you to a fantastic fishing spot at the reef. And if you have luck, you’ll reel in some good catches, such as trevally, codfish and coral trout — as well as the more common mackerel, marlin and tuna.

Mt. Uncle Distillery is one of the stops on Brett’s Outback Tasting Adventures.

3. Foodie bus tour adventures

If you consider yourself to be a foodie, then this adventure will certainly excite your taste buds, fill your tummy and be a treat for your other senses as well.

Brett’s Outback Tasting Adventures offers a bus tour of some of the greatest local restaurants, cafés and shops. It kicks off at Port Douglas, then takes you to seven different spots that offer delectable cuisines. Some of the participating sites could include: Gallo Dairyland, Jaques Coffee Plantation, Mt. Uncle Distillery, Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, Golden Drop Winery and the Platypus Hut, where you can watch the sunset.

Check out the cheese-making process at Gallo Dairyland.

Make sure you leave enough room for the food you’ll be tasting along the way — and there’s going to be a lot of it, that’s for sure!

While it’s technically a bus tour, you can use your own car to follow along if you prefer.

Pampering ahead!

4. Award-winning spa services at the Reef House

There’s no denying that what comes after all those invigorating yet taxing activities is a tired body.

That’s why while you’re in Palm Cove, you should have your mind and body reinvigorated by unwinding at the Reef House’s spa.

The Reef House is a world-class boutique hotel that offers luxurious accommodations. Relaxing at its spa is a great way to cap off your trip to Palm Cove — so you can go back home without a physical and mental toll on your body.  

Think about ending your trip with a massage to work through any knots you got hiking — and go home all blissed out.

A plethora of fun and unique activities await you at Palm Cove, whether it’s a relaxing fishing trip, an exotic food field trip, or a replenishing massage or facial. There’s always something to look forward to, no matter your age or personality. –Sophie Armstrong

Masala y Maíz: One of the Best Restaurants in Mexico City

A delectable mix of South Asian, East African and Mexican cuisines are served up with natural wines at a chic spot in CDMX’s hottest hood.

One section of the kitchen is visible right when you enter the restaurant.

There are places that can be epitomized by the creative energy behind them or the emotions they stir. Masala y Maíz is one of those places. Even before Wally and I ate there, I highly suspected it was going to be a place we’d love. I first read about the restaurant in the Monocle Travel Guide to Mexico City and found myself swiping through their feed on Instagram not long after. 

Masala y Maíz ended up serving the best meal we had during our trip to Mexico City.

Masala y Maíz: Where South Asian and East African Cuisine Meet Mexico

Norma Listman and Saqib Keval are the husband-and-wife team behind Masala y Maíz. While the restaurant has now established itself, opening was no small feat. 

In September 2017, the couple set up shop in San Miguel Chapultepec, but an earthquake epicentered in nearby Puebla had other plans. A 7.5-magnitude quake shook Mexico City and postponed the opening. Six months later, the restaurant was shut down after Listman and Keval refused to pay a mórbida, a bribe to support corrupt government officials. Undeterred, the resourceful duo spent months drifting from one venue to another as a pop-up, while obtaining the necessary licenses and paperwork before being allowed to reopen. 

“A bit of a revolution is happening at Masala y Maíz.

The owners, Listman and Keval, want to dismantle the culture of abuse and sexism that exists in the food industry. ”

The “masala” part of the name refers to the variety of South Asian spice blends and relates to Keval, the American-born son of East African immigrants who trace their ancestry to Kutch, India. 

The simple interior at Masala y Maíz lets the culinary creations be the stars of the show.

Listman was born in Texcoco, Mexico, and her interest in cooking started when she was young, growing up surrounded by food and home cooks. This is where “maíz” comes in. Spanish for corn, maíz is one of the building blocks of Mexican cuisine and a source of constant culinary inspiration for Listman — it’s a key component in many of her dishes. 

Send in the clowns! A view from our table at Masala y Maíz in Colonia Juárez

The pair met in San Francisco while honing their skills in the Bay Area and share a passion for their respective ancestors’ culinary legacy — specifically the histories, traditions and interconnections between South Asia, East Africa and Mexico. Just don’t call it “fusion” — for some reason, they hate that word.

Listman and Keval take cues from the mestizaje, the diaspora and gradual mixing of cultural groups in Mexican history due to colonization. This mélange is part of what makes Masala y Maíz so special. 

The restaurant is located in the Colonia Juárez neighborhood of Mexico City, which a local at a coffeeshop described to us as “the new Roma.”

Duke pausing in from of fun street art while wandering the Juárez neighborhood before our meal

After we had arrived for our lunch reservation (note that they’re only open from noon to 6 p.m.), we struck up a conversation with our server, Ariel, who asked whose birthday it was and where we were visiting from. (I had pre-booked a reservation and was able to let them know there was indeed a special occasion: my birthday.) When we told Ariel we live in Chicago, he told us that he was familiar with the city, having gone to college there and survived the brutal winter. Wally and I laughed in understanding — we often need to escape the months-long bitingly cold weather. 

Wally and Duke cheers to a fab meal at Masala y Maíz.

On to the Main Course(s)

First up were the encruditos, which perfectly highlight Listman and Keval’s culinary philosophy: These thick rounds of pickled corn and cassava chips are served with a wedge of chili-dusted lime whose brightness complemented the dish. 

The pickled corn and cassava chips

This was followed by the samosas de suadero. Two were filled with mouthwatering slow-cooked brisket, the other potato, and dressed generously with cilantro. Wally and I can never say no to savory little golden pockets, and these were served with a chutney verde, which added a welcome kick. 

Be sure to share the samosas de suadero — two are filled with potato, two with brisket.

Next, was the infladita chaat, served on a banana leaf. The flaky puffed chaat was almost too pretty to smash. But that’s exactly what we did, following Ariel’s direction. Made with masa, it was garnished with fennel fronds and mint. The pocket was packed with bold pops of flavor and texture: carrots, jicama, pepitas, beets and minced pickled green mango. 

BEFORE: The infladita chaat looking pretty

AFTER: Our server told us to smash it — so we did!

Then came the camarones pa’pelar: seared chile-rubbed peel-and-eat jumbo shrimp sitting atop a contrasting bed of cool, thinly sliced beets. These were accompanied by a maroon-colored dipping sauce that yielded a complex and unusual flavor, which I can only describe as something Alice might have eaten in Wonderland. Vanilla and ghee are your first taste, which gives way to a spicy finish of smoky dried morita chiles. 

Chile-rubbed jumbo shrimp and beets

Next up: matoke mixiote, banana-stuffed clams steamed in parchment-like maguey leaf membrane and simmered in a flavorful broth of turmeric, coconut milk and tomato masala served with freshly baked paratha, a type of Indian flatbread. 

Matoke mixiote, banana-stuffed steamed clams

Wally ordered a Parasol, a subtly flavored sparkling water — but didn’t like it and ended up stealing my housemade tepache, a spiced beverage made from the fermented peel and rind of pineapples, sweetened with piloncillo, unrefined pure cane sugar. 

The restaurant also offers a selection of natural wines by some of Mexico’s finest vintners. We ended our meal with a celebratory glass of Radical, a funky organic red. Ariel shared the interesting story of its vintner, Silvana Pijoan. Her vineyard is located in Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, California. Pijoan was a trained professional dancer, but in 2017 decided to pursue her winemaking passion. 

Be sure to try some natural wines during your meal — they’re all the rage.

Masala y Maíz’s interior is intimate and refined and features barrel-vaulted ceilings. I was obsessed with the display of cookbooks lined up neatly on a shelf and the candy-colored glazed terracotta plates and cazuelas our food was served in.

The owners of Masala y Maíz want to break free of the sexism and poor treatment of workers that infuses the restaurant industry.

Shaking Up the System

A bit of a revolution is happening at Masala y Maíz. Listman and Keval are fostering a vibrant community, dismantling the brutal culture of abuse and sexism that exists in the food industry. I have nothing but admiration for their mantra, “A construir la comunidad en la que queremos vivir” — to build the community we want to live in. This core belief ensures that all parts of their restaurant meet fair and equitable work conditions. From the local farmers they source from to the team employed at the restaurant, everyone involved is treated fairly, with the dignity and respect they deserve. 

The remains of our delicious meal at Masala y Maíz. We’ll be back for more next time we visit CDMX!

Wally and I are always drawn to chefs who offer surprises for the palette. Masala y Maíz checked every box: delicious food full of unexpected, utterly unique flavors, great service, a pleasing atmosphere and a business philosophy we can get behind. –Duke

Masala y Maíz is open from noon to 6 p.m. — in large part so its staff doesn’t have to work late hours.

Masala y Maíz

Calle Marsella 72
Juárez
Cuauhtémoc
06600 Juárez
CDMX
Mexico

Ojo de Agua: A Delightful Breakfast in La Condesa

Using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, this CDMX fast casual restaurant offers delicious egg, coffee and smoothie options. 

A fantastic breakfast (or coffee or smoothie) option in the La Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City

Some cities really do have it all: food, culture, adventure and more. On our fourth morning in CDMX, we ventured out for breakfast and decided to try Ojo de Agua. Situated off the picturesque Plaza Citaltépetl roundabout near the tree-lined Avenida Amsterdam, Ojo de Agua is a fast casual restaurant that wants you to eat on the healthier side — without being bland or boring. With its own bountiful fresh fruit and vegetable stand on display inside, a literal feast for the eyes, the concept reinforces the proverbial saying “you are what you eat.”

The fruit stand in Ojo de Aqua

The founder named the café after Ojo de Agua, the small town built around a freshwater spring pool located in the state of Michoacán, where the family is from. Their ethos “living a healthy life, in the company of people we love, in harmony with nature and strengthening habits which provide the body with tools to be fulfilled” rings true. The first location opened in the upscale Polanco neighborhood 14 years ago and the brand has since expanded to 23 locations in CDMX. 

The clean and simple logo (a white background with turquoise type and Fanta-blue droplets of water) offer a nod to the town’s namesake spring and can be seen under the awning.

A tasty breakfast at Ojo de Agua’s sidewalk café in La Condesa

A Healthy Way to Start the Day

The interior is casual and chic with big windows, concrete floors, patterned Mudéjar-style tile and white-painted brick walls, which makes it bright and welcoming. Plus, if you arrive early like we did, there’s outdoor seating where you can soak up the morning sun and people-watch while enjoying some of the tastiest food in La Condesa. 

You’ll find plenty of breakfast options to choose from on the menu, including açaí bowls, chilaquiles and cinnamon roll French toast. I ordered the santos ahogados, two poached eggs served in a cast-iron skillet over hoja santa, a large aromatic heart-shaped leaf plucked from the plant of the same name, complete with a generous helping of grilled panela cheese, in a broth of refried beans, salsa roja, salsa verde and sliced avocado. Wally ordered the huevos Polanco, made with two Parmesan cheese-crusted baked eggs served over an avocado purée and dressed with a za’atar-dusted cilantro jocoque, a fermented dairy product somewhere between yogurt and sour cream. My breakfast was savory, flavorful and very tasty. The salsa verde was relatively mild, while the salsa roja had a nice fiery heat to it. 

Wally couldn’t help but be jealous of that thick slice of grilled panela cheese on Duke’s santos ahogados.

I appreciated that real silverware was provided, neatly presented in kraft paper sleeves. The unmistakable and familiar strains of “Bohemian Rhapsody” by the British rock band Queen played over the speakers as we ate up every last bit of our breakfast. 

You’d be hard-pressed to find cuter details than this citrus juicer that acts as a napkin holder.

After breakfast, we made a beeline to the juice bar and ordered the South Face, a combination of fresh mango, passion fruit and pineapple juice. We also purchased a small jar of smoky salsa matcha. I’m considering tossing it with some roasted root vegetables or putting it on some chilaquiles. Needless to say, we left very happy and full. –Duke

Ojo de Aqua

Condesa Hipódromo 23C
06100 Ciudad de México
Mexico

Shrimp Escabeche: A Tapas Treat

Looking for tapas recipes? This escabèche recipe features an aromatic marinade of olive oil, vinegar, garlic and oregano — a perfect tapa for turning any night of the week into a fiesta. 

Shrimp escabèche: a delicious cold seafood tapa

When the hot and sticky days of summer arrive in Chicago, I break out one of my tried-and-true tapas recipes. Pair this with patatas bravas, Manzanilla olives and cold bottles of Estrella or sangria for something muy auténtico.

Pair shrimp escabèche with patatas bravas for a mini tapas spread.

Escabèche is a pickling technique used to flavor and preserve food. This method is believed to have originated in Persia, derived from the word sikbāj, meaning “vinegar stew.” It was brought to Islamic Spain, or Al-Andalus, by the Moors, and later adopted by the Christians, who found it to be a good way to get around eating meat on Fridays during Lent. 

“Escabèche is a pickling technique brought to Spain by the Moors, and later adopted by the Christians, who found it to be a good way to get around eating meat on Fridays during Lent. ”

I love the marriage of garlic-infused olive oil and the tang of acid from the vinegar quick-pickled (or “quickled,” as Wally likes to say) red onions. They’re an ingredient we usually avoid, as we find their flavor to be too aggressive raw, but the quickling takes the bite out of the onions. 

The escabèche process is simple and never disappoints. Plus, all of the ingredients can be prepared ahead and assembled the next day. 

Pickled onions, peppercorns and shrimp combine into a tasty treat.

Shrimp Escabèche Recipe

INGREDIENTS 

• 1 small red onion

• ½ cup distilled white vinegar

• ¼ teaspoon dried oregano (preferably Mexican) 

• ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil

• 2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California bay leaf

• 2 garlic cloves, smashed

• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns

• 1 pound raw, peeled and deveined shrimp

• Fine sea salt

Red onions, garlic, bay leaves, peppercorns, vinegar and shrimp: your ingredients for a simple, tasty tapas dish

PREPARATION 

Slice the onion in half and peel off the outer layer of skin. I like to use a mandolin, placing it on a cutting board. Be sure to use the slicing guard or a cut-resistant glove — these devices can be dangerous! Push the flat side of the onion away from you and repeat this motion with even pressure to keep slices consistent. If you don’t have a mandolin, just try to slice the onion as thin as possible.

Toss together the onion slices, vinegar, oregano and 1 teaspoon salt in a shallow glass or ceramic dish. These are non-reactive materials; if you use a metal dish, you’ll end up with a metallic-tasting tapa. 

Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator. 

Quickling the red onions takes the bite out of them.

Gently simmer the bay leaves, garlic and peppercorns in olive oil in a medium saucepan for 10 minutes until fully heated through. Remove from heat until ready to use. 

Add shrimp to a medium pot of boiling salted water (1 tablespoon salt for 2 quarts water). Remove from heat and let stand, uncovered, until just cooked through, about 5 minutes. 

Poached shrimp

Drain and then combine with the oil mixture in a medium bowl, stirring to evenly coat the shrimp. 

Wrap the bowl with plastic wrap and let the shrimp and infused oil mixture marinate in the refrigerator 12 to 24 hours before eating. 

Discard the bay leaves and plate the shrimp cold or at room temperature. 

Garnish with the onions and pickling liquid. 

We like to make sure you get some onions and at least one peppercorn with every bite. It’s the mix of flavors that makes this dish so tasty.

¡Buen provecho!

Note: The escabèche can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. –Duke

Daily Life in Ancient Egypt

How long did Ancient Egyptians live — and what did most people die of? What were the houses and schools like in Ancient Egypt? What did Ancient Egyptians eat and drink? Egyptologist and author Barbara Mertz unearths these secrets.

What was in an Ancient Egyptian’s diet? How long did they live? And, most importantly, were they cat or dog people?

While I love learning about world religions, mythology and history, not everyone can be a ruler or high priest. It’s nice to also think about the little people. As we explored the wonders of Egypt, I kept finding myself wondering what it was like for the average person. 

It was surprisingly difficult to find a book that covered this subject. There are tons of tomes covering the temples, tombs and pharaohs. But one that tells you how most Egyptians at the time kicked the bucket? Hard to come by. 

“Before we start feeling superior to our ‘primitive’ predecessors, we should bear in mind that a good many people in today’s ‘civilized’ world live under conditions that are as bad or worse than the ordinary ancient Egyptian endured.”

— Barbara Mertz, “Red Land, Black Land”

So thank Horus for Barbara Metz (who, incidentally is the author of the delightful murder mysteries of the proto-feminist archeologist detective, Amelia Peabody). Mertz’s book, Red Land, Black Land: Daily Life in Ancient Egypt, written in her oh-so-distinctive voice, was just what I was looking for.

Barbara Mertz — perhaps the most entertaining author on Ancient Egypt out there

Dear Reader, a Caveat

Part of what I find so enjoyable about Mertz is that she tells it like it is. She’s not too full of her own self-importance to be self-deprecating about herself and fellow Egyptologists. One thing she’ll never be accused of is being stuffy; in fact, there’s a sassiness and wit to her writings that delights me.

Mertz warns that you can’t take anything you learn about Ancient Egypt as outright facts. What we know about that time period could be a misinterpretation of the evidence, and a new discovery can utterly uproot existing theories. 

“[T]he most reliable books on ancient Egypt are loaded with boring words like ‘probably’ and ‘perhaps’ and ‘possibly’; scholars avoid ‘maybe’ for stylistic reasons, but it should be prefixed to at least 50 percent of the statements made in any book on Egypt — including this one,” she writes.

That’s especially true since Mertz first published Red Land, Black Land in 1966, with an updated edition that came out in 1978.

Mummies reveal a lot about how Ancient Egyptians lived — and died.

How long did the average Ancient Egyptian live?

About 35 years — and no wonder, Mertz says. They toiled hard and had limited access to healthcare: “Studies of Egyptian mummies show that these people suffered from a number of diseases, most of which went untreated,” she writes. “Poor nutrition and the inability to cope with infection contributed to high infant mortality. The flour ground on stone querns contained large quantities of grit that wore away tooth surfaces. Cavities were fairly infrequent, since the Egyptians didn’t have refined sugar, but a number of mummies have hideous gum abscesses.”

Ancient Egyptian doctors didn’t do the best job at fighting off a host of diseases.

What diseases were the most common?

Studies of mummies from Ancient Egypt have revealed a host of illnesses, including malaria, tuberculosis and smallpox. “Black lung disease resulted from the smoke-filled, poorly ventilated houses, and desert lung disease from the constantly blowing sand,” Mertz writes. “Perhaps the worst and most common illness was parasitic infection, which still occurs in Egypt today. The most pervasive parasite goes by two names, bilharziasis or schistosomiasis. I won’t go into details, since they are really revolting, but if not treated, the infection produces calcification of the bladder, fibrosis of the intestine, scarring of the liver, serious anemia, chronic fatigue and possibly heart disease. It isn’t fatal except in rare cases, but the sufferer probably wishes it were.”

It all sounds pretty awful — but Mertz points out, “Before we start feeling superior to our ‘primitive’ predecessors, we should bear in mind that a good many people in today’s ‘civilized’ world live under conditions that are as bad or worse than the ordinary ancient Egyptian endured.”

Ancient Egyptian homes weren’t too shabby; they had four rooms, plus the rooftop.

What was an Ancient Egyptian house like? 

For the middle and upper classes, there were typically four rooms in their homes. The room facing the street had no windows, aside from grates near the roof. Beyond this was an all-purpose room with columns and a higher ceiling, where the family slept, ate and entertained. A raised platform was used for a couch, bed or possibly to give birth. And behind this were two more small chambers: a kitchen and a storeroom or extra bedroom. There was a basement for storage, and a flat roof that served as extra living space. 

Beds tilted slightly downward, so instead of a headboard, there was a footboard to keep the sleeper from gently sliding down onto the floor, Mertz writes. And no down-filled pillows were to be found: “the item that would finish most of us was the pillow, which was not a pillow at all but a headrest of shoulder height, with a support curved to fit the neck,” she explains.

Dining tables were also unheard of. Even in royal palaces, every guest or pair of guests had their own little table to eat at.

In the kitchen, there weren’t any counters. While it doesn’t sound very sanitary, all cooking prep was performed on the floor, from grinding grain to kneading bread.

Egyptian homes didn’t have counter space, so meal prep was done on the ground. Consequently, a lot of food had grit in it that wore away at the teeth.

Privacy wasn’t really an option, as homes were filled with extended family members.

At Amarna, a city that briefly served as Egypt’s capital, the villas of chief courtiers even had bathrooms — a small, walled-off space with a brick-supported seat and a removable vessel beneath.

A model of an Ancient Egyptian home. Peasants’ homes were made of mud brick and would be reduced to nothing in a bad downpour.

What about the homes of the lower class?

Their huts would have been made of mud brick, containing a single room that everyone — including any domesticated animals — shared. And while it doesn’t rain often in Egypt, when it does, it’s a deluge. “A heavy downpour would reduce a peasant’s house to a pile of mud,” Mertz writes. “On the positive side, such domiciles were easy to build.”

Bread and beer were the two main staples of the Ancient Egyptian diet.

What did Ancient Egyptians eat and drink?

The key staple of the Ancient Egyptian diet was bread. In fact, some loaves have survived to the present day! 

They were also quite fond of beer. These two items top the list of the mortuary texts that list the food most desired in the afterlife. 

Early Egyptians ate a lot of fish — the River Nile offered a never-ending supply.

Milk, cheese, beans, lentils and chickpeas were also consumed. 

Vegetables played a large part in the Ancient Egyptian’s diet, primarily onions, garlic, radishes and lettuce (which was an aphrodisiac and features prominently in a bizarre myth about Horus and Seth). 

“Meat was probably scarce in poor households, but well-to-do families raised cattle and such exotic animals as oryxes and gazelles for food,” Mertz writes. 

They also domesticated pigs, sheep, geese and ducks.

Wealthy nobles, not surprisingly, ate better than the peasants. For one, they could sweeten their food with honey, and they ate carob, which is as close to chocolate as the ancients got.

They ate fruit, including dates, figs, melons and grapes, which were also dried into raisins or made into wine. 

More wine? Egyptians seemed to prefer beer, but as these amphoras attest, vino was popular, too.

“People ate with their fingers,” Mertz writes, “and when the meal was over a servant, or a daughter of the household, came around with water, which was poured over the hands.”

This carving shows what appears to be an Ancient Egyptian school.

Did Ancient Egyptians go to school?

We’re not sure, but we can presume that some of the upper class children, particularly the boys, were educated at a temple or in a room of a scribe’s house. 

The tools of the scribe’s trade

They were given the equivalent of pen and ink, and they wrote on ostraca, broken fragments of pottery or stone, because papyrus was too expensive for educational purposes. As you can imagine, they wrote in the hieroglyphic Egyptian script (“the most beautiful system of writing ever devised,” according to Mertz).

“Incidentally,” she continues, “the correct noun form for the little images is ‘hieroglyphs.’ Popular writers occasionally call them ‘hieroglyphics,’ and this small error scratches at the sensitivities of Egyptologists like a fingernail on a blackboard.”

Ancient Egyptians got a lot of things right — including a love of cats, which they domesticated.

How did they feel about cats?

It’s believed that Ancient Egypt was the first place cats were domesticated. 

They were also at the center of the worship of the feline-headed deity, Bastet: “Mummified cats have been found in large numbers,” Mertz writes. “I regret to say that the majority appear to have been deliberately done in, presumably as an offering to the goddess in question. (Don’t ask me to explain the logic of this.)”

The Egyptian word for cat might have been an onomatopoeia: It’s spelled miw. “How it was vocalized we may safely leave to the imagination of any cat-owning reader,” Mertz writes, cheeky as ever. –Wally

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KEEP READING: The Sex Lives of Ancient Egyptians

Learn their views on premarital sex, children born out of wedlock, homosexuality, women’s rights and more!

French Phrases About Food That Are Simply Scrumptious

There’s nothing sadder than a meal without cheese. Learn this and other sweet French food expressions and idioms. Just please don’t spit in the soup. 

I’ve always loved expressions. They make language so much more colorful — and they can be cleverly tweaked into the most delightful, groan-inducing puns. 

Plus it’s fun to think about where the strange expressions came from. How did some of these phrases originate? In English, we say something that’s easy is a piece of cake — though you can’t have your cake and eat it too. Maybe we should stick to taking candy from a baby. Why do we go bananas when we’re in a pickle? 

There are just as many crazy idioms across the pond. Here are some French expressions that have to do with types of food: Eat your heart out — just don’t bite off more than you can chew!

“In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie.

But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.”

Oh purée! You don’t know these expressions? Don’t worry. The carrots aren’t cooked — there’s still time to learn them.

Vegetables

C’est la fin des haricots.

What it translates to: It’s the end of the beans.

What it means: There’s nothing left; that’s the end.

avoir un coeur d’artichaut

What it translates to: to have the heart of an artichoke

What it means: to be unfaithful; to be sensitive

C’est pas tes oignons.

What it translates to: It’s not your onions.

What it means: none of your beeswax; none of your business

raconter des salades

What it translates to: to tell salads

What it means: to tell lies

Oh purée !

What it translates to: Oh, mashed potatoes!

What it means: Darn it!

faire une frite

What it translates to: to make a french fry

What it means: to slap someone on the butt

Les carottes sont cuites.

What it translates to: The carrots are cooked

What it means: What’s done is done; it’s too late.

mettre du beurre dans les épinards

What it translates to: to put butter in the spinach

What it means: to improve your finances; to earn a bit more

être dans les choux

What it translates to: to be in the cabbage

What it means: to be in a bad situation; to fail

poireauter

What it translates to: to “leek”

What it means: to wait a long time

C’est un navet !

What it translates to: It’s a turnip!

What it means: It’s a terrible movie.

I’m gonna bring my strawberry and tell you what I think: These French food expressions are just peachy!

Fruit

avoir la pêche 

What it translates to: to have the peach

What it means: to be full of energy, enthusiastic

ramener sa fraise

What it translates to: to bring one’s strawberry

What it means: to give your opinion

haut comme trois pommes

What it translates to: as high as three apples

What it means: to be short, small

tomber dans les pommes

What it translates to: to fall into the apples

What it means: to faint

rouge comme une tomate

What it translates to: to be as red as a tomato

What it means: to be embarrassed

couper la poire en deux

What it translates to: to cut the pear in half

What it means: to split the bill; to reach a compromise

avoir le melon; prendre le melon

What it translates to: to have the melon; to take the melon

What it means: to be sure of oneself, to be cocky

If you’re going to make a whole cheese about it and be milk soup, well, you can go cook an egg!

Dairy

avoir le beurre et l'argent du beurre 

What it translates to: to have the butter and the money to buy butter

What it means: to have your cake and eat it too

beurré 

What it translates to: buttered

What it means: wasted, drunk

ne pas avoir inventé le fil à couper le beurre

What it translates to: to not have invented the thread that cuts the butter

What it means: to be dumb, not the brightest

en faire tout un fromage

What it translates to: to make a whole cheese about it

What it means: to make a mountain out of a molehill, to unnecessarily make a big deal out of something

triste comme un repas sans fromage

What it translates to: sad like a meal without cheese

What it means: very sad

être soupe au lait

What it translates to: to be milk soup

What it means: to be quick-tempered

Va te faire cuire un œuf !

What it translates to: Go cook yourself an egg!

What it means: Get lost; leave me alone!

changer de crémerie

What it translates to: to change creameries

What it means: to take your business elsewhere

The French love their baguettes, so it’s not surprising there are a few expressions having to do with bread.

Bread

avoir du pain sur la planche

What it translates to: to have bread on the board

What it means: to have a lot to do

pour une bouchée de pain

What it translates to: for a mouthful of bread

What it means: for a small amount, cheaply

Ça ne mange pas de pain. 

What it translates to: This doesn’t eat bread. 

What it means: It couldn’t hurt. 

rouler dans la farine

What it translates to: to roll in the flour

What it means: to swindle

In Britain, someone who’s quiche is a hottie. But in France, for some reason, this delicious meal is an insult.

Meals

cracher dans la soupe

What it translates to: to spit in the soup

What it means: to be ungrateful, to bite the hand that feeds you

une quiche

What it translates to: a quiche 

What it means: someone who is bad at something

avoir le cul bordé de nouilles

What it translates to: to have an ass surrounded by noodles

What it means: to be lucky

Personally, I think these expressions really cut the mustard.

Toppings and Condiments

à quelle sauce on va être mangé

What it translates to: in what sauce we’re going to be eaten

What it means: I don’t know how this’ll pan out; things don’t look good.

La moutarde me monte au nez.

What it translates to: I have mustard coming up my nose.

What it means: I’m annoyed; I’m angry.

tourner au vinaigre

What it translates to: to turn to vinegar

What it means: to go bad

Watering down wine is never a good thing.

Drinks

mettre de l’eau dans son vin

What it translates to: to put water in their wine

What it means: to tone it down

Here are a couple of dessert-themed expressions that really aren’t too sweet.

Sweets

casser du sucre sur le dos de quelqu’un

What it translates to: to break sugar on someone’s back

What it means: to badmouth someone; to talk about someone behind their back

Ce n’est pas de la tarte.

What it translates to: It’s not tarte.

What it means: It’s not going to be easy. 

Hope you find these expressions delectable! Go ahead — talk with your mouth full. –Wally

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MORE FRENCH LESSONS!

French Phrases About Animals

Why is having the cockroach being depressed? What does it mean when you say a drink is cat pee? Learn these and more beastly fun French expressions!

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For the Love of Latin Food

Most cooking sites get Mexican, Puerto Rican, Cuban and Dominican recipes wrong. Familia Kitchen sets out to correct that by highlighting authentic family recipes.

Home cooking should be easy and delicious.

I admit that when it came to Latin cuisine, I was hopelessly naïve. I expected all of the countries of Central and South America to have the bold, spicy flavors of Mexico. So I was quite surprised when I got to Peru and realized that the national cuisine had little in common with Mexico’s. But the soups I had along the Incan Trail to Machu Picchu were absolutely delicious, and I had a tres colores ceviche that might be the best I’ve ever had. I also enjoyed my alpaca medallions on the shore of Lake Titicaca — just don’t ask me about the guinea pig.

Now, as a more seasoned traveler (and foodie), I realize that every country has its own distinct cuisine, each delicious in its own way.

Food is an essential part of travel for us, and Duke and I eat as globally in our cuisine as possible. So it was with great excitement and anticipation that we awaited the launch of Familia Kitchen, by my friend and former colleague, Kim. –Wally

What’s not to love about Latin food, in all its many varieties?!

“Grandmother cooking is fast, because abuelas know how to get dinner on the table quickly. And it’s authentic, because it comes from their heart and their homeland soil.”

— Kim Caviness, CEO and editor in chief, Familia Kitchen

What made you decide to launch Familia Kitchen? 

I’ve long been fascinated by what people cook at home, for themselves. On a regular weeknight and on important occasions, like a family holiday: What do they make and why? If I meet someone new, I’ll try to find a way to ask them a typical thing they make for dinner and about their family food heritage — by the way, it almost always comes from their mother’s culture. Their face lights up when they start talking. 

Food is family is history is identity. 

Li’l Kim in Puerto Rico, already a big fan of food

I grew up in Puerto Rico, right by San Juan, surrounded by so many cousins and aunts and uncles. My mother’s family goes back many generations on the island. We rotated from aunt to aunt for family holidays, which always involved lots of cooking.

In Puerto Rico, my family owned a little hotel, a guesthouse called El Canario. It was my mother’s house when she grew up. My grandmother, Rocío — which  means “morning dew,” isn’t that so pretty? — lived next door. That’s the Latino way: Family lives near each other and gets together a lot, over food. My parents would often invite our American hotel guests back to our place across the street for drinks. Dad had this tiki bar in our apartment and he’d swish up daiquiris and piña coladas, and Mom would make delicious dishes, often Puerto Rican traditional ones. I’d watch her in the kitchen. I wanted to do that when I grew up.

Kim’s family owned El Canario Hotel near San Juan, Puerto Rico, where they’d invite guests to their apartment-cum-tiki-bar across the street.

Now I’m the grownup hosting family holiday meals, and if I want to make authentic dishes from my childhood, the only way to get them is straight from Mom. There are lots of good blogs, but when I consult the major recipe websites, they don’t get Latino food right. They often mix up Mexican and Puerto Rican, Dominican, Cuban and so on. They water down the flavors and ingredients. They use the wrong kind of rice or not-quite-right spices. It seems like they see all Latinos as one monolithic Hispanic food segment. Sometimes, they’ll have a talented chef doing a traditional dish “Nuevo Latino” style. Which usually sounds great and I’m all for innovation, but it will list 20+ ingredients and steps. You couldn’t make it for a normal, daily, family dinner. 

Kim, with her son, Bob

For years, I’d think to myself: That’s not how Latina abuelas — our good-cook grandmothers — would make that dish. Why overcomplicate?  And how do we keep their recipes alive?

So I determined to do something about it. I decided to create a website with only authentic abuela cooking. We’d publish the favorite family recipes of Latino/a/x homecooks who have their go-tos dishes memorized. Who know when and how to break traditional food rules — and when not to. They are the OG keepers of our culinary traditions.

Mmmmm…nachos!

When did you get the idea for the site? 

The specific idea for Familia Kitchen, a crowdsourced and curated Latino/a/x family recipes and food stories website, came to me the week of Christmas 2019, when I was trying to find a Puerto Rican recipe online — and struck out. 

Nine months later, like a baby: Familia Kitchen launched. Our mission is to celebrate and collect Latinx families’ favorite recipes, as we really make them. We’ll go country by country, island by island, memorializing families’ favorite recipes before they get lost to time. 

Kim, Lisa and Ana decided to found Familia Kitchen — the kind of Latinx recipe site they dreamed of.

What’s your site’s mission?

Our dream is to create the best, biggest and most authentic treasury of Latinx culinary legacies — for all 19 Spanish-speaking destinations in Latin and Central America and the Caribbean — showcasing their simplicity and sophistication. Very important: We’ll celebrate the home cooks who submit by posting their bylines, family food stories and cook’s notes.

Boricua-style Puerto Rican rice with chicken. Sharing your family’s recipes on Familia Kitchen could score you a free trip home!

Tell us about your recipe contests. 

One of the ways Familia Kitchen will gather the best traditional Latinx recipes is by inviting users to submit to our 12 Familia Kitchen recipe contests a year. Each month, we’ll feature one defining dish from a Latinx country or island and invite cooks to submit their family’s favorite. In October, we launched with Your Familia’s Favorite Puerto Rican Arroz con Pollo. In November, we switched to Your Familia’s Favorite Mexican Pozole. We will publish every recipe and food story submitted. They’re all authentic, time-honored and loved. 

Familia Kitchen will build our culinary treasury one recipe, one food story at a time.

At the end of each year, the cook who submits the “most popular” family recipe — the most likes, most shares, most comments — will win a trip (flight, hotel, an amazing meal) for two to their Latinx homeland. Our tagline is “Cooking your way home” — and Familia Kitchen is excited to literally make that happen for one Latinx cook and their plus-one each year. We’ll also donate 5% of our profits each year to a Feeding America Latino community program.

What’s your favorite aspect of Latinx cuisine?
The richness of the regionality of each Latinx nation’s flavors and food histories. And the way each destination’s food is different from each other in foundational ways, yet in the same food family. Cuban and Argentinian cuisines are pretty different, yet they are both unmistakably “Latino.”

Family gathered to celebrate young Kim’s birthday.

What’s the best part about cooking?

Feeding people you love: friends and family. I also love experiencing someone’s life and family through their food stories and memories. When they tell you that this is the very beef picadillo that they always ate at their grandparents’ house on Father’s Day when they were growing up. And then you make that picadillo, with its hints of that family’s own way of cooking and living — you can literally taste a time and place and people. Food anthropology.

One of Kim’s favorite recipes: pasteles with pork, wrapped in banana leaves

What are some of your favorite recipes?

I love so many. We have a recipe for pasteles with pork, green bananas and yautia from a friend I went to elementary school with that takes me back in time to Puerto Rico of 100 years ago. My husband’s cousin Anjie, whose family came from Spain to New Mexico in the 1600s, submitted their never-see-it-anywhere-else recipe for sweet chile rellenos with hatch chiles that is a revelation. A friend, Susana, who is from Peru, sent me her family recipe for the fish ceviche they eat at the beach. What an honor. 

And one of my co-founders, Ana: Her husband Brian writes a regular column for us called “Guero Corner.” Guero is a nickname Mexicans give light-haired people. The funny thing is he’s the gringo family cook who sits with his Mexican mother-in-law, an amazing abuela cocinera nicknamed Gollita. One of our most popular recipes on the site right now is his: Gollita’s porkchops with tomatoes and onions, which are unlike any porkchops I’ve had before. They are tangy, textured and so easy! My husband and son said they are the best chops they have ever had, and now I make them on the regular.

What do you love about “abuela cooking,” as you call it?

Grandmother cooking — it’s the best. Here’s why: It’s trusted. It’s been honed over decades to its most simple and delicious version. It’s fast, because abuelas know how to get dinner on the table quickly. And it’s authentic, because it comes from their heart and their homeland soil.

Tacos could be one of the most versatile of dishes, with a potentially infinite amount of variations — almost always tasty.

What ingredients are essential for a Latinx home chef?

For all Latinx cuisines? I’d have to say rice, of course, as well as garlic — which means we all need a good garlic press to squeeze every liquidy last bit from each clove. 

If Wally sees a cubano on the menu, there’s no turning back.

What’s something most people don’t know about Latinx cuisine?

How complex and sophisticated each country’s dishes are. They’re not as spicy as people think. And how wide the range of cuisine is. Peruvian is as different from Mexican cuisine as German is from Italian food.

Wally has already whipped up a huge batch of Doña Felipa’s sofrita — and is experimenting by putting it on pretty much everything he can think of.

Tell us about Doña Felipa, your neighborhood “abuela.”

One day I heard someone speaking Spanish while watering her back garden, which is literally next to my house in Chicago. I could tell from the woman’s accent she was from Puerto Rico. What are the chances? I waited for her to finish her phone call, introduced myself, and we immediately started talking. 

Doña Felipa, who is 83, and I discovered we both love cooking, and that cemented our friendship. She and I spend a lot of time at her kitchen counter, while she chops and teaches me how she makes our island’s most traditional dishes. Even now we do that, wearing masks.

Doña Felipa loves to tell stories of growing up on the western side of the island and raising her kids in Chicago. She spoils us with Puerto Rican food packages all the time. Last month, she brought over a little statue of El Niño Divino, the divine child Jesus, to watch over our health and house. She blessed me right there on the street in front of our house, on busy Diversey. Total abuela thing to do.

Everyone should live next to a Puerto Rican abuela. 

Or the next closest thing: Cook like one. #abuelacooking

Sip and Savor at Seniman Coffee in Ubud

Looking for the best coffee in Bali? Check out this stylish coffeeshop and learn about third wave coffee — as well as what’s next in coffee culture.

Get your java fix in Ubud at the trendy Seniman Coffee Studio.

For Wally and me, one cup of coffee is never enough. And if you follow our blog — a big thank you to those who do — you’re probably already familiar with my borderline obsessive research when planning a trip. I like to find the hidden gems. 

Seniman Coffee Studio in Ubud, Bali was one of those discoveries. I first read about them on Sprudge, a media network dedicated to global coffee culture. After reading contributing writer Evan Gilman’s vivid article, I was determined to seek out Seniman on our visit to the Indonesian island.

Seniman specializes in single-origin local coffee beans.

When we arrived at the café, tucked away at No. 5 on quiet Jalan Sri Wedari (jalan is the Indonesian word for street), I felt like we were in the know. Seniman Coffee Studio is clearly a popular spot. The café was buzzing with tourists, locals and digital nomads, a few who were working on their laptops or simply daydreaming — which isn’t hard to do once you find yourself perched on the open-air verandah after spending an afternoon exploring Ubud. 

The coffee flavor wheel…in Indonesian.

Reinventing the Wheel

Inside the café, a row of perfectly lit siphon coffee brewers looked like they belonged in a chemistry lab. To help you decide what to order, a hand-drawn coffee taster’s wheel diagram on the wall describes the flavor profile and intensity of each roast. Seniman specializes in light roast single-origin Indonesian coffees. I’m a fan, as this method allows the beans to retain moisture and oils, which in my opinion, yields a less acidic, more complex and aromatic cup.

Part of the current coffee culture is telling the story of each type of bean.

A Brief History of Coffee in Indonesia

Coffee was first introduced to Indonesia by the Dutch in 1699. Arabica coffee trees were imported and cultivated on estates in Java, giving rise to the Dutch East India Company and the coffee trade. Fast forward to what’s referred to as the third wave movement, where consumers have become interested in the provenance, production and experience that comes with enjoying a quality cup of coffee. Long gone are the days when the best part of waking up was Folger’s in your cup.

This graphic can help you figure out what to order.

In Indonesia, the third wave came down to the arrival of Starbucks, according to Rodney Glick, owner of Seniman. “Starbucks’ history in this country is completely different to its history in America, as by the time it entered the Indonesian market, the company was already 20 years old,” Glick explained. “Starbucks’ role wasn’t to champion Indonesian origins in Indonesia, but nevertheless it helped create consumer awareness that coffee comes from a place and not a sachet.”

The coffee industry has now moved into the fourth wave, or as Glick prefers to call it, the new wave. The focus is on telling the story of the entire coffee chain. “The coffee industry’s new wave encompasses innovative approaches, acknowledges traditional histories and celebrates regional differences,” he said. “More coffee stories are told by the producers themselves, entailing their own challenges and creative solutions.”

Take a break and get a caffeine fix along Jalan Sri Wedari.

Seniman: Our Spot in Ubud

On our first visit to Seniman, I tried an iced cascara, made from the dried leathery husks of coffee cherries, while Wally stuck with his old standby: an iced latte. A cascara sounded exotic, but to be honest I wasn’t the biggest fan. It’s a bit watered down, tasting closer to tea than coffee, and if you’re expecting a cup of coffee, cascara doesn’t cut it. On our two subsequent visits, I ordered the cold brew and wasn’t disappointed. 

The cascara was a bit too much like a weak tea for Duke’s tastes.

When you order, a wooden plank with three segments gets delivered to your table. One contained coffee, the second a glass of water in an upcycled green glass wine bottle with the bottom as a lid and a small vessel with simple syrup as a sweetener. In the space between, there was a sweet — my kind of place! 

The drinks come on colorful paddles with slots for simple syrup and a sweet treat.

Glick, an Australian expat, founded Seniman Industries in 2009 with the objective to create a laidback brand informed by the serious pursuit of coffee. Everything at Seniman Coffee Studio is artfully prepared and presented — and Glick is a sculptor himself — so it makes sense that in Bahasa Indonesian, seniman means “artist.” (Be sure to check out Glick’s interesting sculptures, which take contemporary figures and infuse them with Hindu and Buddhist elements.)

The siphons look like something out of a steampunk laboratory.

At Seniman, coffee is brewed manually by siphon, pour-over, chemex or hand-drawn espresso to extract the optimal flavor from the beans. The café doesn’t simply serve what many might consider the world’s best brew, they also offer classes and workshops to educate individuals interested in learning more about home brewing, roasting, cupping, espresso and latte milk art. The brand has a light, playful tone as evidenced by their ethos, emblazoned on their menu and T-shirts: Imagine You Know What You’re Doing.

What’s your interpretation of Seniman’s tagline?

When we asked Glick about the quirky tagline, he responded, “From experience, anyone that says they know what they’re doing should be kept at a distance!”

Buy coffee to go, T-shirts and other items at THCR across the street.

This Coffee’s in the Bag

Across the street is the roastery and shop THCR (Tetap Happy Coffee Roasters), which sports another amusingly confounding motto: Everything Happens to Everyone. You can purchase vacuum-sealed bags of whole beans, mugs and T-shirts to take home with you as a souvenir of Bali. Wally and I were both drawn to the color-blocked silver foil bags of single-origin beans with exotic names like Bali Kintamani, Papua Wamena and Sulawesi Toraja. 

Cool beans! Learn all about the coffee you purchase, as Seniman is part of the new wave.

“Seniman Coffee is an example of a new wave coffeeshop since we farm, produce and roast our own coffee, and we work on bringing out the positive attributes of beans from Bali,” Glick told us. “We farm and produce coffee through our sister company, Karana Spesialis Kopi. Additionally, we also source from major coffee regions in Indonesia: Gayo, West Java, Flores, Toraja and Papua.”

I purchased a couple bags of the Bali Karana Madu and one of the Papua Wamena. I actually liked it so much that I’ve ordered more and had it shipped to Chicago. 

Seniman and its sister company are involved in every step of the coffee production process.

Energized by our caffeine fix, Wally and I were ready to return to exploring the shops and avoiding the errant wild monkeys. 

Duke and Wally always find a local spot that acts as their base when they travel — and Seniman held that honor in Ubud.

We asked Glick how Ubud has changed since he’s been there. “More eateries and coffeeshops led by world-class artisans are opening up in Ubud, creating a very interesting mix of high-end international cuisine and local warung [the Indonesian word for shops],” he said. “Together it forms interesting collaborations and cross-pollination of ideas between expats and Indonesians.”

The one downside to iced lattes is that they’re not topped with fun art like these.

If you’re planning on visiting Ubud and are looking for a great cup of coffee, make sure to seek our the red circle with the sideways S. One sip and you’ll understand that Seniman doesn’t have to imagine they know what they’re doing — they already know. –Duke

Dog-gone it, if you’re a coffee connoisseur, you can’t miss Seniman in Ubud, Bali.

Seniman Coffee Studio
Jalan Sri Wedari No.5
Ubud, Bali
Indonesia

Al Moudira: A Dream Oasis in Luxor, Egypt

Escape the hassle. This idyllic, under-the-radar Luxor hotel on the West Bank of the Nile has plenty of personality.

This elaborate woodwork forms one wall of the central courtyard

Wally and I found ourselves on a narrow road, passing children driving donkey carts, wagons piled high with sugarcane and the rugged otherworldly stretch of the Theban Mountains on the horizon.

Once we arrived at the Hotel Al Moudira and told our guide Mamduh this was where we were staying, he became visibly concerned. He even accompanied us to reception to confirm that this hotel, in the middle of nowhere, was where we really wanted to stay.

We could understand his apprehension. The sprawling Al Moudira is set back from a dusty two-lane road, in the midst of a tiny rural village surrounded by acres of fertile farmland. Mamduh just couldn’t understand why we would want to stay outside the urban center of the East Bank. But Al Moudira’s remoteness is a large part of its appeal.

The minute you enter the confines of the hotel, you’ll know you’re someplace special

We stopped by the reception room to check in and were each served a refreshing glass of karkadeh, sweetened, chilled hibiscus tea. I quickly asked if there was a bathroom nearby, as we had driven from Aswan to Luxor that day and it was a long distance between our last stop at Edfu and the West Bank. As I passed a trio of colorful wooden figurines, and saw the vintage oil-painted portraits — one of a man with a rather bushy moustache, and the other a silver-haired matron wearing a pearl necklace — outside their respective bathrooms, I knew we had found the perfect place to spend the next four nights.

The reception area

Quirky artwork can be found here and there, revealing the proprietress’ sense of humor

For Wally, all he needed to see was the gurgling fountain in the open-air central courtyard, and he was grinning from ear to ear. And that was before he knew we had our own fountain in our room!

Our room opened to a courtyard filled with vibrant flowering bougainvillea, a fountain, and a sitting area

A Tour of Al Moudira

We passed through the entrance hall, which leads to the stunning central courtyard. The fountain stands in the middle, while at the far side, light filtered through an intricate cedarwood mashrabiya screen integrated into the main pavilion, creating an inviting seating area complete with cushioned banquettes for guests to perch and relax on.

A raised platform in the courtyard is gorgeously appointed and is a great spot to relax before dinner

Garden paths made of repurposed tile meander throughout Al Moudira

The man leading us to our room stopped to introduce us to a dark-haired woman. “This is the boss!” he exclaimed. “Al moudira! She is the owner, the designer, the manager — basically, she does everything!”

It wasn’t until later that we made the connection that Al Moudira means “boss,” specifically the female form of the word.

The junior suite Wally and I stayed in was airy and spacious (not so “junior”) and included a generous sitting area, a central fountain surrounded by cushions, air conditioning, a minibar and a king-size canopy bed. The Wi-Fi was weak in our room, but that’s the point. The vibe is low key and has been designed for you to unplug. Don’t worry, though. You can still post to Facebook and Instagram (though don’t you dare check that work email) with the Wi-Fi in the main courtyard.

Our spacious room had a fountain in the middle of it!

Every morning, light filtered through the colored glass set into the vaulted domes of our enormous en-suite bathroom.

The complex itself is comprised of a maze of open arches, crowned with cupolas and enclosed inner courtyards, each with its own fountain and verdant oasis.

The beautiful objects found throughout the hotel have been collected by Zeina, the owner

The Boss Tells Us the History of Al Moudira

One evening while Wally and I were relaxing on the central courtyard terrace, we met Al Moudira again, the charming multilingual Lebanese proprietor, hostess and creative force behind the hotel, Zeina Aboukheir.

I casually asked if anything had stood where the hotel was and she paused our conversation to retrieve a scrapbook that a close friend had made for her, documenting the process and various inspirations for her desert palace. A dedication on the first page caught my eye. It read, “Al Moudira, ou la folie de Zeina” (the madness of Zeina — or as we might say, “Zeina’s crazy idea”).

Construction began in 2000, but the hotel feels old and grand, due to the vintage finds and architectural salvage Zeina has amassed from her travels and effortlessly layered into her labor of love, including Persian carpets, salvaged wooden doors and mother of pearl-inlaid chairs.

I told Zeina I loved the artworks that adorn the walls of the Eastern Bar, hand-colored boudoir images from a series titled Femmes de Bou Saada, and she replied, “Yes, aren’t they wonderful?”

The Eastern Bar has naughty artwork, games and a piano

Enjoy a cocktail before and/or after dinner

The bar evokes a cozy parlor in a British mansion

Zeina purchased the desolate plot of land and set out to transform it into a storybook refuge. She hired Olivier Sednaoui, who specializes in vernacular architecture, which incorporates traditional regional and indigenous styles. Sednaoui had previously built his own home near Medinet Habu, inspired by the methods and techniques of Hassan Fathy, a pioneer in sustainable mud brick architecture.

The hotel is named for Zeina’s nickname: the Boss Lady

Zeina and the architect had many spirited debates over the concept of the hotel complex.

“Did you get your way?” Wally asked.

“For the most part,” Zeina said, smiling.

She added, “He was very good at brickwork. But that’s all he wanted to do. When that was finished, he left.”

No shrinking violet, Zeina persevered over the following years, assembling a team of local workers and craftsmen, along with Lebanese artist Mario Dahab, whose flourishes can be seen throughout the boutique hotel. This can-do spirit earned her the nickname Al Moudira. When it came time to decide a name for the hotel, she already knew what to call it.

Lush plants, soothing earth tones, arches and cupolas are all part of the relaxing aesthetic at Al Moudira

“The Only Place Possible in Luxor”

The hotel’s interiors have a theatrical quality, blending Egyptian, North African and Near Eastern styles. As Zeina told us, “I find things I like…and then figure out where to put them.” For example, the piano in the Eastern Bar was discovered at a flea market in Alexandria.

I wasn’t the least bit surprised when she told us that the hotel has received celebrity guests, including French fashion designer Christian Louboutin, Rolling Stones frontman Mick Jagger and supermodel Kate Moss — who we learned, much to our dismay, was there just a few days before we were.

Wally and I ate breakfast and dinner al fresco in the communal courtyard, partly because there wasn’t another option nearby, but also because the meals we had there were delicious. The menu changes nightly and features a variety of Mediterranean, Eastern and European-inspired dishes — all at a remarkably affordable price.

Lunch of mezze, or small dishes, which we enjoyed al fresco by the pool

The central courtyard is where most guests have breakfast and dinner

Service was warm and hospitable, and we felt like we were guests at a lavish caliphate’s winter palace. I enjoyed hearing the sound of rustling palm fronds and birdsong as well as the occasional call to prayer while exploring the beautifully landscaped grounds. (We got a bit lost on more than one occasion.)

During our stay, the large swimming pool was the perfect place to seek refuge from the strong midday sun, and Wally and I looked forward to spending a few hours reading and relaxing poolside after exploring the hot and arid West Bank.

The pool is where the action is in the afternoon

Get a drink or a bite at the pool pavilion

You will have to share your stay with flies, but there were small brushes placed everywhere (Wally called them shoo-flies), which act like a horse’s tail to swat away the pests. Duke would rest the shoo-fly by his head, convinced that this trick kept the flies at bay.

If you’re planning on visiting Luxor and are looking for the perfect place to stay within close proximity of the ancient pharaonic sites of the West Bank, and prefer a restful refuge not in the midst of the Luxor chaos, look no further than Al Moudira. You’ll soon learn that a stay here is the perfect getaway, or to, quote Louboutin: “For the most divine hotel owner, Zeina, and for the garden — basically the only place possible in Luxor.” –Duke

Forget downtown Luxor — we recommend staying at this refuge on the West Bank

Hotel Al Moudira
Luxor
West Bank,
Hager Al Dabbeya
Egypt