8 Reasons to Visit Marsa Alam, the Hot, New Egypt Beach Destination

Much more laidback than Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh, Marsa Alam offers pristine sea life for scuba divers and snorkelers, European-style service, desert excursions and nearby Wadi El Gemal National Park. And, of course, there are the dugong sea cows.

Sea turtle in the Red Sea

Not too long ago, Marsa Alam, Egypt was known only as a hidden gem for divers. The secret’s getting out — and the area is rapidly developing as a more laidback alternative to the northern Red Sea beach party destinations.

Home to one of the oldest ancient civilizations in the world, Egypt is a mysterious and fascinating travel destination that should be on your radar. However, the pyramids, temples and tombs are only the beginning — it's also a beach destination bordering both the Mediterranean and Red Seas. Located on the western shore of the Red Sea, the town of Marsa Alam offers a less-crowded alternative to Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada.  

Not long ago, Marsa Alam was a small fishing village whose only tourists were avid in-the-know scuba divers. In recent years, though, it has grown into a promising European-style resort destination. Almost directly east of Edfu on the Red Sea, it’s farther south than most other beach towns in Egypt. 

There’s a small international airport that services Marsa Alam, though it’s actually an hour or so north, in Port Ghalib. Whether you’re looking to relax and enjoy pristine sand beaches, high-quality luxury accommodations, desert trekking, or exploring the abundant sea life, there’s something for everyone here. 

Another gorgeous sunrise at Marsa Alam — which you’ll be up to see since you weren’t partying till the wee hours at the club

8 Reasons Why Marsa Alam Is Becoming a Hot Travel Destination

More and more tourists are skipping Cairo and heading to the beach resorts of Hurghada and Sharm el-Sheikh. However, Marsa Alam is one of the newest destinations and is quickly rising in popularity. Here’s why you should consider this up-and-coming hotspot in Egypt. 

Gorgeous reef teeming with sea life in Marsa Alam, Egypt

This part of the Red Sea isn’t yet crowded or polluted — and the aquatic life is stunning.

1.   An untouched underwater world

Thanks in large part to its remote location, the underwater world of Marsa Alam is more wild and currently less affected by tourism — a real paradise for divers and snorkelers.

dugong sea cow

Who doesn’t love dugongs, this area’s version of the manatee?

Schools of exotic fish, vibrant coral reefs, sea turtles, dolphins and dugong sea cows can all be found in this part of the Red Sea. And if you’re not a fan of snorkeling or diving, there’s always the option of booking a glass-bottom boat excursion to enjoy the wonders of this enchanting underwater world.

Pier going into the Red Sea at Marsa Alam, Egypt

First and foremost, Marsa Alam is a beach destination, where you can relax on the sand, swim, snorkel and scuba dive.

2.   Gorgeous beaches

The beach stretches for over 30 miles (50 kilometers). Almost every hotel has its white sand beach — a great place to admire the sunrise. 

And because Marsa Alam isn’t as crowded as Hurghada or Sharm el-Sheikh, it’s a good option for families with children. There’s a calmness to this region for those who want the opportunity to be alone with nature.

Pool at night at Lazuli Hotel in Marsa Alam, Egypt

The Lazuli Hotel in Marsa Alam is just one of many luxury resorts popping up in the area.

3.   High-quality service

Tourists here mainly hail from Germany, Poland, Austria and the Czech Republic, giving Marsa Alam a European feel. In fact, unlike other resort destinations in Egypt, prices are in euros. And for those of you who have experienced bad service elsewhere in Egypt, you shouldn’t find it in Marsa Alam. 

It is also worth noting that, unlike other beach hotspots, vendors and travel services representatives aren’t as pushy here. 

Beach with umbrellas and chairs at Marsa Alam, Egypt

Even the winter isn’t too cold in Marsa Alam, and most beaches are protected from the infamous Egyptian winds.

4.   Good weather

Because Marsa Alam is farther south than other beach resorts, the enviable climate is warmer, especially in winter, when the temperature averagess between 60 and 84 degrees Fahrenheit — making it a comfortable holiday destination all year round. Also, most hotels have bays that are protected from the infamously strong Egyptian winds. 

Roman ruins at Wadi El Gemal National Park, Egypt

Explore the ancient Roman ruins at Wadi El Gemal National Park.

5.   Excursions and activities

Marsa Alam is a place where you can swim for hours, ride an ATV in the desert next to the sea, and visit nature reserves and national parks. 

Wadi El Gemal National Park (Valley of the Camels) is a must-do day trip just 28 miles (45 kilometers) to the south of Marsa Alam. It’s the third largest park in the East Arabian Desert, consisting of 1,840 square miles of land and 810 square miles of marine life. Here you have the opportunity to observe rare birds and animals as well as wander among the ruins of temples and other buildings that date back to Ancient Rome!  This area was known as the Emerald Mountains and supplied the empire with green beryl gemstones.  

White Desert National Park natural formations in Egypt

Take a day trip to marvel at the natural sculptures in White Desert National Park.

6.   Awesome deserts

If you want a break from the beach, then a trip to the Sahara el Beyda is a great option, with its stunning scale and boundless space. The surreal chalk-white landscape, punctuated by natural sculpture shaped by the harsh desert winds, is now a protectorate known as White Desert National Park. 

Four-wheeler on the dunes of Sahara el Beyda desert in Egypt

Who says Marsa Alam has to be relaxing all the time? Hop on an ATV and go for a ride in the dunes of the nearby desert.

To me, the desert represents freedom. Don’t worry about it getting too hot — it’s particularly pleasant even in the spring. Go for a ride on a quad bike or jeep, ending with a trip to the closed nature reserve beach to look for giant shells and pieces of coral. The sand here rivals that of the Maldives in its whiteness.

Swimming pool at Iberotel Costa Mares hotel in Marsa Alam, Egypt

The Iberotel Costa Mares is but one of several five-star hotels in the Marsa Alam area.

7.   New world-class hotels and resorts 

So many four- and five-star hotels to choose from! They stretch along the coast in either direction from Marsala Alam. Yes, they are right on the beach — but, at the same time, there is a lot of greenery here. The staff will set you up with sports, wellness treatments and other activities. 

8.   Tourist infrastructure

Pharmacies, shops, bars and restaurants are popping up all over town. You can also head to neighboring Port Ghalib, about an hour away, to eat at one of the restaurants there.

Dromedary on sand at edge of the Red Sea in Egypt

Marsa Alam, where the desert meets the Red Sea

Oh-So-Chill Marsala Alam 

Compared to other popular resorts in Egypt, Marsa Alam is much more relaxed. This is an opportunity to experience amazing beaches and sea life away from noisy tourists and discos. But, like many other on-the-rise destinations, it might not be long before Marsa Alam becomes overcrowded. I recommend going sooner than later. –Isabelle Jordan

 

Also in the area

Temple of Horus at Edfu, Egypt

Edfu is a little over three hours away, directly west.

Death Cults of Ancient Mexico

The post-death rituals of the pre-Hispanic peoples of Mexico involved human sacrifices, dog sacrifices — lots of sacrifices.

The pre-Hispanic people of Mexico often left a token in a corpse’s mouth to help the spirit on its journey through the underworld.

Our current death rituals are typically one of two extremes: We either pump a corpse full of chemicals in an effort to preserve it — or we burn it to a crisp. 

The pre-Hispanic peoples of Mexico went to their own extremes when it came to the cult of death, often involving sacrifice of some sort. 

Death goddess at the Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City

Known as the Lady of the Dead, Mictecacihuatl was the Aztec goddess of death, who ruled the underworld.

Here are some interesting facts about their death rites, which we learned while exploring the amazing Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City — currently my favorite museum in the world. 

A xoloitzcuintli Mexican hairless dog was sacrificed when someone died in the belief that it would serve as a spirit guide.

The death rites of pre-Hispanic peoples involved an elaborate spiritual journey that began with the killing of a dog.

When someone died in pre-Hispanic Mexico, a 40-day death ritual kicked off with the sacrifice of a xoloitzcuintli dog. The corpse was dressed in fine clothes, if their family could afford it. Otherwise, simple mats would do. A jade bead (or blue-painted pebble) was placed in the body’s mouth.

The person’s soul began a journey through the darkness of the nine planes beneath the earth. The skin was shed and dangers faced, including savage beasts that could only be appeased by being given the bead or pebble, which represented the person’s heart. 

As the spirit traversed this sinister landscape, family members would help them on their way by abstaining from sex and certain foods.

Eventually, the soul reached the Chignahuapan, the river at the border of the ninth plane. Waiting patiently, and probably wagging its tail, was the little doggie, who would lead the way across the water, into Mictlan, the dark and cold place of no return. 

Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent at the Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City

A reconstruction of the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent at the Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City. The original was the site of mass human sacrifices.

Excavations at a major temple in Teotihuacán revealed human sacrifices.

In Teotihuacán, within the confines of its religious and political centerpiece, the Pyramid of the Feathered Serpent (Pirámide de la Serpiente Enplumada), evidence of mass human sacrifice has been unearthed. Built from 150 to 200 BCE, the temple houses the remains of numerous sacrificial victims dressed as warriors. The symmetrical pattern of the bodies reveals that they were connected to the culture’s cosmology and calendar.

Stone carving of skull at the Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City

This disc from the Temple of the Sun in Teotihuacán represents the death of the sun.

It was an honor to be sacrificed to the god of war and darkness.

Tezcatlipoca (“the Obsidian Mirror”) helped create the universe and, as the Mexica god of war and darkness, held dominion over those activities that often took place at night, including theft and adultery. Not surprisingly, the color black was associated with him. Tezcatlipoca was also the god of masculinity and procreation. 

Every year, an unmarried man under the age of 20 was chosen to represent him as a living god. He was dressed up like the deity and lived large — until, that is, the fifth month of the year, when he was sacrificed.

Statue of goddess at Museo Nacional de Anthropología in Mexico City

Coatilcue, the goddess of the earth, had a head made of two serpents and liked to wear a necklace of severed human hands and hearts.

People were shot to death with arrows in a fertility rite.

Ancient peoples did many unusual things to ensure the fertility of their crops, and the residents of Mexico were no different. Tlazolteotl, the Aztec goddess of purification, lust and vice, liked people to be shot full of arrows in the fields. The sacrificial person’s blood fell to the earth to ensure fertilization and to thank the goddess for her bounty. –Wally

Masala y Maíz: One of the Best Restaurants in Mexico City

A delectable mix of South Asian, East African and Mexican cuisines are served up with natural wines at a chic spot in CDMX’s hottest hood.

Masala y Maíz green kitchen

One section of the kitchen is visible right when you enter the restaurant.

There are places that can be epitomized by the creative energy behind them or the emotions they stir. Masala y Maíz is one of those places. Even before Wally and I ate there, I highly suspected it was going to be a place we’d love. I first read about the restaurant in the Monocle Travel Guide to Mexico City and found myself swiping through their feed on Instagram not long after. 

Small table in front of Masala y Maíz

Masala y Maíz ended up serving the best meal we had during our trip to Mexico City.

Masala y Maíz: Where South Asian and East African Cuisine Meet Mexico

Norma Listman and Saqib Keval are the husband-and-wife team behind Masala y Maíz. While the restaurant has now established itself, opening was no small feat. 

In September 2017, the couple set up shop in San Miguel Chapultepec, but an earthquake epicentered in nearby Puebla had other plans. A 7.5-magnitude quake shook Mexico City and postponed the opening. Six months later, the restaurant was shut down after Listman and Keval refused to pay a mórbida, a bribe to support corrupt government officials. Undeterred, the resourceful duo spent months drifting from one venue to another as a pop-up, while obtaining the necessary licenses and paperwork before being allowed to reopen. 

A bit of a revolution is happening at Masala y Maíz.

The owners, Listman and Keval, want to dismantle the culture of abuse and sexism that exists in the food industry.

The “masala” part of the name refers to the variety of South Asian spice blends and relates to Keval, the American-born son of East African immigrants who trace their ancestry to Kutch, India. 

Tables and  interior at Masala y Mais restaurant

The simple interior at Masala y Maíz lets the culinary creations be the stars of the show.

Listman was born in Texcoco, Mexico, and her interest in cooking started when she was young, growing up surrounded by food and home cooks. This is where “maíz” comes in. Spanish for corn, maíz is one of the building blocks of Mexican cuisine and a source of constant culinary inspiration for Listman — it’s a key component in many of her dishes. 

Man and little girl dressed as clowns in Juarez, Mexico City

Send in the clowns! A view from our table at Masala y Maíz in Colonia Juárez

The pair met in San Francisco while honing their skills in the Bay Area and share a passion for their respective ancestors’ culinary legacy — specifically the histories, traditions and interconnections between South Asia, East Africa and Mexico. Just don’t call it “fusion” — for some reason, they hate that word.

Listman and Keval take cues from the mestizaje, the diaspora and gradual mixing of cultural groups in Mexican history due to colonization. This mélange is part of what makes Masala y Maíz so special. 

The restaurant is located in the Colonia Juárez neighborhood of Mexico City, which a local at a coffeeshop described to us as “the new Roma.”

Man in front of street art posters of dogs

Duke pausing in from of fun street art while wandering the Juárez neighborhood before our meal

After we had arrived for our lunch reservation (note that they’re only open from noon to 6 p.m.), we struck up a conversation with our server, Ariel, who asked whose birthday it was and where we were visiting from. (I had pre-booked a reservation and was able to let them know there was indeed a special occasion: my birthday.) When we told Ariel we live in Chicago, he told us that he was familiar with the city, having gone to college there and survived the brutal winter. Wally and I laughed in understanding — we often need to escape the months-long bitingly cold weather. 

Two men in restaurant booth

Wally and Duke cheers to a fab meal at Masala y Maíz.

On to the Main Course(s)

First up were the encruditos, which perfectly highlight Listman and Keval’s culinary philosophy: These thick rounds of pickled corn and cassava chips are served with a wedge of chili-dusted lime whose brightness complemented the dish. 

Pickled corn and cassava chips at Masala y Maíz

The pickled corn and cassava chips

This was followed by the samosas de suadero. Two were filled with mouthwatering slow-cooked brisket, the other potato, and dressed generously with cilantro. Wally and I can never say no to savory little golden pockets, and these were served with a chutney verde, which added a welcome kick. 

Samosas at Masala y Maíz

Be sure to share the samosas de suadero — two are filled with potato, two with brisket.

Next, was the infladita chaat, served on a banana leaf. The flaky puffed chaat was almost too pretty to smash. But that’s exactly what we did, following Ariel’s direction. Made with masa, it was garnished with fennel fronds and mint. The pocket was packed with bold pops of flavor and texture: carrots, jicama, pepitas, beets and minced pickled green mango. 

Chaat at Masala y Maíz

BEFORE: The infladita chaat looking pretty

Smashed chaat at Masala y Maíz

AFTER: Our server told us to smash it — so we did!

Then came the camarones pa’pelar: seared chile-rubbed peel-and-eat jumbo shrimp sitting atop a contrasting bed of cool, thinly sliced beets. These were accompanied by a maroon-colored dipping sauce that yielded a complex and unusual flavor, which I can only describe as something Alice might have eaten in Wonderland. Vanilla and ghee are your first taste, which gives way to a spicy finish of smoky dried morita chiles. 

Jumbo sprimp at Masala y Maíz

Chile-rubbed jumbo shrimp and beets

Next up: matoke mixiote, banana-stuffed clams steamed in parchment-like maguey leaf membrane and simmered in a flavorful broth of turmeric, coconut milk and tomato masala served with freshly baked paratha, a type of Indian flatbread. 

Clams at Masala y Maíz

Matoke mixiote, banana-stuffed steamed clams

Wally ordered a Parasol, a subtly flavored sparkling water — but didn’t like it and ended up stealing my housemade tepache, a spiced beverage made from the fermented peel and rind of pineapples, sweetened with piloncillo, unrefined pure cane sugar. 

The restaurant also offers a selection of natural wines by some of Mexico’s finest vintners. We ended our meal with a celebratory glass of Radical, a funky organic red. Ariel shared the interesting story of its vintner, Silvana Pijoan. Her vineyard is located in Valle de Guadalupe, Baja, California. Pijoan was a trained professional dancer, but in 2017 decided to pursue her winemaking passion. 

Wine glasses and napkins on table at Masala y Maíz

Be sure to try some natural wines during your meal — they’re all the rage.

Masala y Maíz’s interior is intimate and refined and features barrel-vaulted ceilings. I was obsessed with the display of cookbooks lined up neatly on a shelf and the candy-colored glazed terracotta plates and cazuelas our food was served in.

Woman working at Masala y Maíz

The owners of Masala y Maíz want to break free of the sexism and poor treatment of workers that infuses the restaurant industry.

Shaking Up the System

A bit of a revolution is happening at Masala y Maíz. Listman and Keval are fostering a vibrant community, dismantling the brutal culture of abuse and sexism that exists in the food industry. I have nothing but admiration for their mantra, “A construir la comunidad en la que queremos vivir” — to build the community we want to live in. This core belief ensures that all parts of their restaurant meet fair and equitable work conditions. From the local farmers they source from to the team employed at the restaurant, everyone involved is treated fairly, with the dignity and respect they deserve. 

End of meal plates at Masala y Maíz

The remains of our delicious meal at Masala y Maíz. We’ll be back for more next time we visit CDMX!

Wally and I are always drawn to chefs who offer surprises for the palette. Masala y Maíz checked every box: delicious food full of unexpected, utterly unique flavors, great service, a pleasing atmosphere and a business philosophy we can get behind. –Duke

Masala y Maíz is open from noon to 6 p.m. — in large part so its staff doesn’t have to work late hours.

Masala y Maíz

Calle Marsella 72
Juárez
Cuauhtémoc
06600 Juárez
CDMX
Mexico

 

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela: One-Stop Shopping in CDMX

The best market in Mexico City is filled with folk art and handicrafts from all around Mexico.  

brightly colored alebrije fantasy animals

A selection of fantastical alebrijes on sale at La Ciudadela

Mexico City has no shortage of markets. There’s the Saturday art market along the adorable cobblestone streets on the hills of San Ángel. There’s La Lagunilla, the Sunday antiques market. There’s also the Mercado Sonora, with a witch market tucked into a back corner, and the vibrant, two-story Mercado Coyoacán. And market stalls pop up all over the city, including in the Plaza de la Republica at the entrance to the Monumento de la Revolución

Papier-mache devils at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Papier-mâché devils hanging around the mercado

¡Mucha lucha! A luchadore-themed shop at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Religious artifacts at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Religious artifacts on sale at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

But if you’re into folk art, handicrafts and arte popular, as Duke and I are, the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela is a dream come true. It’s so massive you couldn’t even hope to cover it all on one visit. We’ve been there on both visits to CDMX — and will make it a stop every time we go back. 

If I’m being perfectly honest, Duke and I have a problem. We just love traditional handicrafts so much we can’t help but bring home half a suitcase full of goodies. As you can imagine, our home is practically overflowing with these souvenirs of our world travels. 

Nuns shopping at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

A nun is amazed at the selection of folk art on sale at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

Pre-Columbian style clay statues at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

We bought a few things at this stall with clay artworks in the pre-Columbian style.

Puppets and other handicrafts at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Puppets and other arte popular fill every stall at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

Mexican Trees of Life at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Mexican Trees of Life at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Folk art for sale at a shop in Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

A typical shop at La Ciudadela

Fonda Carmelita at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Break up your shopping — and grab a margarita — at the cantina in the market.

Tips for Shopping at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

When you enter, the main part of the market is to your right — but don’t miss the smaller section off to the left as well. 

The stalls offer handicrafts from various regions all over Mexico: alebrijes, brightly painted wooden fantastical creatures from Oaxaca; colorful Otomi textiles, including hand-embroidered pillow covers and tablecloths depicting animals, flowers and plants; clay sculptures that surpass those sold at the Museo Nacional de Antropología gift shop with many in the pre-Columbian style. 

Market stall at Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

There are handicrafts for sale from all over Mexico at the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela.

At La Ciudadela, prices are set — but it doesn’t hurt to ask for a bit of a discount if you’re buying multiple items from one vendor. 

People dining at Fonda Carmelita

We always eat lunch at Fonda Carmelita, the cantina in the middle of the market.

There’s a cantina in the middle of the market called Fonda Carmelita, where we always stop to get a bite of traditional Mexican fare — and a couple of margaritas, por supuesto. The first time we were here, Duke went to the back to use the baño and returned to the table, reporting that our frozen margs were being whipped up in a blender by an 8-year-old boy. 

The cantina will always be a welcome resting spot for us to recharge and discuss the stalls we want to revisit after lunch. Apparently, the loud-talking German-speaking tourist at a neighboring table didn’t get the memo that smoking indoors has been banned in CDMX since 2008. He lit up a cigar after his meal, which was our cue that it was time to ask for la cuenta and get back to shopping. 

Food stall in front of Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Right out front of the market, a couple of women whip up tacos with homemade blue corn tortillas.

Exploring the Neighborhood

On the sidewalk outside the market, small vendors set up. The first time we came, we stopped to buy veggie tacos — and were obsessed with watching one of the women make homemade blue corn tortillas on a large metal drum right before our eyes. 

And on our most recent visit, a quirky used record stand had popped up. 

One of the best traditions of Mexico City: open-air dancing in the parks

After a half-day of shopping, the tote bags we had brought with us stuffed full of amazing finds (some for gifts, most for us), we explored the park across the street, Parque de la Ciudadela. We’re familiar enough with CDMX traditions now not to be surprised to see couples dancing in the open air. These people are doing life right. –Wally

Wall reading, "Artesanias Ciudadela"

Our fave spot to shop in CDMX

A mural on the wall in front of the mercado

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

When you see this, you know you’re in for a shopping extravaganza!

Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela

Balderas S/N
Colonia Centro
Cuauhtémoc
06040 Cuauhtémoc
CDMX
Mexico

 

Paseo de los Gigantes and the Plaza del Bebedero

Parque Los Bebederos once hosted fashionable events, which the modern architect Luis Barragán would use as a sales pitch to entice homebuyers to the Mexico City suburb of Las Arboledas. 

Two men among trees at Parque Los Bebederos

Our guide, Martín, with Duke, got us to appreciate even this park, showcasing works by Barragán that have fallen into disrepair.

Paseo de los Gigantes. Promenade of the Giants. An evocative name — but when you visit, you might wonder where these mythical monstrosities can be found. 

Stop and look around this green space outside of Mexico City. The answer is right in front of your eyes. See the tunnel of majestic, gnarled bark eucalyptus trees? Those are the giants for which the park is named.  

Eucalyptus tree at Los Gigantes

A massive, gnarled eucalyptus tree — one of the namesake “giants” of this linear park

It was our last stop on our half-day tour of Luis Barragán’s suburban designs: Torres de Satélite, Fuente de los Amantes and the amazing Cuadra San Cristóbal

Barragán was fond of designing paseos. These long, thin green spaces now act as medians dividing grand boulevards, but they were once country paths used for horseback riding.  

For this is horse country, a suburban enclave for equestrian aficionados northwest of CDMX. In fact, the main purpose of this particular linear park was to generate interest in the local community of Las Arboledas. Los Gigantes was a social hotspot, offering stands to view races at the horse track that once stood here. (Nothing remains, sadly — all you can see now are homes. It would have been cool if they had incorporated the track to shape the neighborhood like they did in La Condesa with Avenida Amsterdam.)

These narrow parks, set along medians, followed old country roads once used for horse riding.

Old viewing stands at Los Gigantes

The faded red viewing stands were used for social events to watch horses gallop around a no-longer-existent racetrack.

Barragán held events in Los Gigantes, though little evidence of its fashionable past remains. The park is but a shadow of its former glory. 

As with Frank Lloyd Wright, some of Barragán’s designs might have looked impressive but just don’t stand the test of time. A fountain here with a bright tangerine-colored backdrop lacked a proper foundation (not to mention was a colossal waste of city water), and the basin has been drained. 

While we gazed upon it, a guy on a BMX bike kept riding through the empty fountain, treating it as a ramp to practice his tricks and jumps. 

Orange drained fountain at Los Gigantes

Barragán’s orange fountain at Los Gigantes is now drained. Its foundation was sinking — and it used quite a bit of city water.

The red concrete viewing stands look outward, away from the park, once facing the horse track. Tucked behind a wall, there used to be a bar where people would get refreshments to enjoy the show, our guide, Martín, told us.

“I wish it was still a bar,” I muttered. 

Large tree and red concrete stands at Los Gigantes

The red structure in the background once housed a bar for fancy cocktail parties Barragán would host to lure rich horse enthusiasts to buy land in the local development.

All this spectacle was designed to attract the CDMX élite. “Barragán was clever,” Martín continued. “In essence, he was saying, ‘This prestigious life could be yours. You can raise your kids here. Why don’t you buy a piece of land?’”

Barragán grew up with horses and was passionate about the equestrian lifestyle — but he was also, one imagines, well paid to promote the area. 

White and blue walls at Parque Los Bebederos

The blue wall marks the end of the park.

Plaza del Bebedero

Continuing along in the park, we came to the Plaza y Fuente del Bebedero (Plaza and Fountain of the Trough. The long, thin rectangular horse trough, like the other fountain, is now empty. 

The trough is considered the centerpiece of the green space — in fact, the area is sometimes called Parque Los Bebederos (although there’s only one).

Fuente del Bebedero

The Fuente del Bebedero (Fountain of the Trough) used to be a watering hole for horses but is now empty.

A white wall nearby acts as one of the canvases for the play of shadows that’s a Barragán trademark.

White wall by Barragán at Parque Los Bebederos

A white wall in Parque Los Bebederos was one of Barragán’s famous screens for the play of shadows.

And closing off the space is an indigo wall. “It’s the perfect device to separate the park from the city,” Martín said. He’s a huge fan of Barragán — and now we are, too. 

blue wall in Plaza del Bebedero

The blue wall in Plaza del Bebedero seen from another angle

Old orange storage building at Los Bebederos

The orange building is administrative and was where Barragán stored the supplies for the parties held in Parque Los Bebederos.

Wandering through Los Bebederos, which has changed so drastically since its heyday, I couldn’t help but wish we had been able to experience the Promenade of the Giants when it was a big deal — sipping a cocktail while cheering on the horses racing around the track. –Wally

 

Parque Los Bebederos (Los Bebederos Park)

Avenida Paseo de los Gigantes
Las Arboledas
52950 Cuidad López Mateos
México

7 Fun Facts About the Monumento a la Revolución in Mexico City

The iconic Monument to the Revolution in CDMX offers an observation deck up top, tombs of famous revolutionaries and a museum below.

Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City

The Monument to the Revolution was going to be a much bigger structure but opened in its present incarnation in 1938.

We had a bit of time before seeing the Immersive Frida show at Frontón México across the street. So we wandered through the Plaza de la República, admiring the Monumento a la Revolución (Monument to the Revolution) from all angles. We didn’t end up going inside (either up to the top or down below, which are both options). 

At the time, what we knew about this monument barely scratched the surface. It has hidden depths — literally.

Here are seven fun facts about the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City.

Bronze cupola at the top of the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City

The Monumento a la Revolución is the tallest triumphal arch in the world and has become a CDMX icon.

Fast facts about the Monument to the Revolution 

Opened: 1938

Designer: Carlos Obregón Santacilia

Height: 220 feet 

Style: Art Deco and Mexican Social Realism

Market stalls in front of the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City

A local market sets up shop in the Plaza de la República in front of the Monumento a la Revolución.

1. It’s the tallest triumphal arch in the world. 

Take that, Arc de Triomphe! Paris’ monument might arguably be more famous, but Mexico City’s rises higher than any other, at 220 feet. (The Arc de Triomphe is a paltry 164 feet high.)

Historic photo of the construction of the Palacio Legislativo in CDMX in 1912

A historic shot of the structure first being built, from 1912. The monument was originally going to be a palatial government building, the Palacio Legislativo Federal.

2. It was originally supposed to be a massive legislative building. 

The structure was planned to be the Palacio Legislativo Federal (Federal Legislative Palace). No royalty would have resided in this palace — instead, it was to house legislators and bureaucrats during the corrupt reign of Porfirio Díaz (more on him below). But then the Mexican Revolution ignited and the project was abandoned. 

The metal structure that was to serve as the core of the building languished for over 20 years, rusting away. But then Mexican architect Carlos Obregón Santacilia convinced the government to transform the structure into a monument to the heroes of the Mexican Revolution.

Porfirio Díaz and Francisco I. Madero

The dictator Porfirio Díaz (left) was ousted during the Mexican Revolution, and Francisco I. Madero (right) was set up as the president of the new democracy.

3. The Mexican Revolution deposed a crooked ruler and instituted democracy for the nation.

A hero of the battle that defeated invading French troops (why Cinco de Mayo is celebrated every year), Díaz ran for president of Mexico. But when he lost, the sore loser launched a coup in 1876 and seized power, ruling nonstop, aside from a four-year break, until 1911. Francisco I. Madero, a presidential contender who was jailed when he threatened to unseat Díaz, became a leader of the pro-democracy movement. He called Mexicans to arms on November 20, 1910 (that date is now Revolution Day). The revolutionaries succeeded, and Díaz’s reign ended when he was forced into exile in France. It’s estimated that 2 million people died during the revolution, or 1 in 8 Mexicans.

Pancho Villa on a white horse

The (in)famous bandit Pancho Villa, folk hero of the Mexican Revolution, is interred in a pillar of the Monumento a la Revolución.

4. The monument also serves as a mausoleum for Mexican presidents and rebels.

If I had done a bit of research beforehand, I would definitely have insisted on heading inside the monument. The bases of each of the four main pillars house the tombs of some of the most famous Mexican revolutionaries: Pancho Villa (bandit), Madero (president), Plutarco Elías Calles (general, then president) and Lázaro Cárdenas (another general, another president). 

Glass elevator at the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City

The glass elevator in the middle of the monument takes visitors up to a viewing platform by the cupola.

5. There’s an observation deck at the top of the monument.

The Monument to the Revolution underwent an extensive renovation in 2010, when a new glass elevator was added. You can easily spot it rising right into the center of the structure. It takes visitors up to a viewing platform inside the copper-clad cupola — though I bet the ride up is the best part. Part of the structure has been left exposed to reveal the steel innards that support it. If this interests you, I’ve heard you can book a short tour during your visit. 

6. And, under all those tons of concrete, there’s a museum and art exhibit space below.

Head down to the basement to find an art gallery as well as the National Museum of the Revolution. The museum (self-described as avant-garde — we’ll have to take their word for it) includes a series of rooms that each deal with a time period of Mexico’s history.

To one side of the monument, there’s a sunken garden that offers an escape from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City.

7. The Plaza de la República has a nice hangout spot. 

The day we walked around the plaza, there was a small market by the monument’s main entrance. I do love how vendors can set up shop pretty much anywhere in Mexico City. This market seemed to be more for locals, with stalls selling shirts, hats, purses and the like, with some food stands mixed in. 

On the other side of the plaza, there’s a sunken garden. The walls are high enough to block out the busy intersections that surround the square — certainly visually if not aurally. It’s a great place to seek a bit of serenity right in the midst of a commercial district. 

So, even though there’s so much going on inside, above and below the Monumento a la Revolución, I never beat myself up for missing something while traveling. I’m always happy to have a reason to go back — especially to as magical a city as CDMX. –Wally

Cleaning cart in front of the Monument to the Revolution in Mexico City

Keeping the Plaza de la República clean

Monumento a la Revolución

Plaza de la República S/N
Tabacalera
Cuauhtémoc
06030 Ciudad de México
México

 

Cuadra San Cristóbal: Barragán’s Striking Horse Ranch Home

The Mexican architect’s masterpiece of modern architecture is framed by brightly colored walls and a signature fountain.

Duke and Wally sit at Cuadra San Cristobal

Duke and Wally absolutely loved visiting Cuadra San Cristóbal, an amazing home and horse ranch designed by Luis Barragán.

Luis Barragán is, undeniably, one of the most influential architects of the 20th century. Revered for his mastery of color, light and shadow, which blend vernacular hacienda elements with modernist influences, the Mexican architect’s legacy continues to inspire and influence contemporary design. 

Bright pink walls at Cuadra San Cristobal

Brightly colored walls meet at right angles and form artistic vistas everywhere you look.

It had been a dream of mine to see the famous pink-hued walls of the Cuadra San Cristóbal equestrian estate. The iconic ranch has served as the backdrop for countless creative projects, including an editorial campaign featuring French model Léa Seydoux shot onsite for Louis Vuitton in 2016 (which, naturally, included a horse or two).

2016 Louis Vuitton fashion shoot at Cuadra San Cristobal

Louis Vuitton did a fashion shoot at Cuadra San Cristóbal, which turned out pretty freakin’ cool.

I had seen photos — but the color, form, texture and scale cannot truly be comprehended without experiencing the design in person.

When Wally and I had the opportunity to visit the modernist landmark on a trip to CDMX, I searched the web to plan our pilgrimage and found the Traveling Beetle, an architectural guide service that offered a half-day Barragán tour including access to this emblematic structure.

Barragán was an avid equestrian and in the 1960s, he directed his admiration for the bold and graceful four-legged creatures into the construction of the gated community of Los Clubes, a residential subdivision in Ciudad López Mateos designed to attract the equestrian elite of Mexico City. 

Metal chairs on lawn at Cuadra San Cristobal

Wouldn’t you just love to sit and admire this view?

The private seven-and-a-half-acre estate was designed and built in collaboration with Barragán’s protégé Andrés Casillas from 1966 to 1967 as a home and horse ranch for Folke Egerström and his family. The two met while riding at the nearby Club Hípico Francés and shared a passion for the equestrian lifestyle.

Cuadra San Cristobal with lawn

The white portion is the family home, while the pink is an entrance to the gardens.

Barragán’s True Colors

Viewed from the street, the unassuming perimeter wall of Cuadra San Cristóbal presents a blank face, concealing the stables, fountain, courtyard, house and gardens beyond. Only the name spelled out in metal letters on a wall in front hints at the gentility of the property.

Duke pointing to the sign of Cuadra San Cristobal

Duke, whose first name is actually Christopher, or Cristóbal in Spanish, points to his namesake attraction.

An orange-red classic VW bus in front of Cuadra San Cristobal

San Cristóbal was part of a half-day excursion with the Traveling Beetle, during which we tooled around in this tomato-red VW Bus.

Outer entrance to Cuadra San Cristobal

The unassuming front door to the complex doesn’t offer even the slightest hint of the gorgeousness beyond.

Wally and I exited the mint-condition orange-red ’76 VW Combi Bus and followed Martín, our tour guide, passing through a wooden door that led to an open patio paved with squares of volcanic basalt stone. It was late morning and the sunlight gave the Egerström family home a soft glow. The white Cubist-looking structure stood to our left, its façade absent of ornamentation save for a slatted rectangular window. Directly ahead of us, a hedge and tree hid the courtyard beyond. The opening was framed by a white wall to one side and a rust-red wall to the other. We glimpsed a bright pink wall beyond and a cascade of water. Talk about a dramatic entrance.

Martín gestured to the opening. “The walls act like curtains to the main stage,” he said. “Barragán was a showman.”

The entrance to the home on the property, still owned by the Egerström family.

The opening that reveals the courtyard of Cuadra San Cristobal

Our guide, Martín, described the walls, one white, the other brick red, as curtains of sorts, framing the spectacle to come.

We followed the sound of the gurgling water that spilled in a steady stream from a spout in a massive wall into a shallow basin. The pool reflects the sky, evoking a sense of tranquility but also serving a practical purpose as a trough to provide horses with water and to keep cool. 

Fountain at Cuadra San Cristobal

The first glimpse of the courtyard at Cuadra San Cristóbal

Barragán was inspired by the Islamic gardens of the Alhambra in Spain and elements of Moorish architecture in North Africa, which focused on interior life arranged around a peaceful open courtyard garden and fountain. 

Even though the cuadra is in a neighborhood, it’s easy to forget this. Everywhere you look, you’re surrounded by greenery, and walls frame the open space, ensuring privacy. Barragán, you see, was at heart an introvert.

Pink back wall of Cuadra San Cristobal

Barragán is known for his rectangular walls painted vibrant hues — especially this shade of magenta, which has become Mexico City’s official color.

The Wonderwalls of Cuadra San Cristóbal

As we moved closer to the courtyard, the white walls of the home receded to reveal a kinetic energy of broad intersecting horizontal and vertical planes awash in rosa mexicano (bougainvillea pink) and mauve (jacaranda purple). The palette was informed by Barragán’s lifelong friend and frequent collaborator, the painter Chucho Reyes. Colors build a strong contrast to the sand beneath our feet and the surrounding tropical flora. 

In fact, the colors were chosen to act as complementary tones to those provided by nature: The bright pink plays off the dark green of native plants; the tan wall provides a contrast with the blue sky; and the brick red wall pairs nicely with the aqua water in the pool.

Fountain pool and pink wall at Cuadra San Cristobal

A kaleidoscope of colors: brick red, magenta, aqua — and, of course, sky blue and green, provided by nature.

Pink dividing wall at Cuadra San Cristobal

Right angles, pops of color, shifting shadows — these are all Barragán signatures.

Back of house and pink garden wall at Cuadra San Cristobal

Note the small gap where the two walls meet.

Pink wall by purple wall and sleeping dog at Cuadra San Cristobal

A sleeping schnauzer rests in the back corner of the courtyard.

Fountain at Cuadra San Cristobal

The fountain at San Cristóbal is similar to another Barragán design, la Fuente de los Amantes.

I had seen photos of the very place where we were standing — but the color, form, texture and scale cannot truly be comprehended without experiencing the monumentality of the design in person. This is where I became acutely aware of Barragán’s use of scenic framing and spatial manipulation to create a dramatic sense of passage. Everywhere I looked, layers of color entered my field of vision. To me, this was truly a sacred space, where the concept of time seemed to dissolve. 

A copse of trees, including a jacaranda and an ombú, with its strange yellow fruit, act as an organic foil to the geometry of the measured lines. They stood in direct contrast to a pink wall with two vertical cutouts that suggested a citadel fortification but were, in fact, vents for hay bales. 

The stables at Cuadra San Cristobal

It’s easy to get caught up by the beauty of the space and forget that, at its heart, this is a horse ranch. But that’s exactly what it is, as you can see from the stables to the right.

Out to Pasture

We approached the stable and passed under the overhang of the boarding barn. Once home to 37 thoroughbred horses, the stalls were designed for the gentle giants to be able to see, smell and communicate with each other.  

Barragán was asked why he only built homes for the wealthy.

“And for horses,” he said. Then he added, “But horses are neither rich nor poor. They’re just horses.”

The clubhouse is located at the end of the stable near the fountain. Inside is a well-preserved teletype, which was used to send and receive printed messages and data via telephone cables, probably considered state-of-the-art at the time it was installed. Above eye level, a clerestory window perfectly frames a slice of the sky, illuminating the space with subtle natural light. Martín told us that Barragán didn’t include many built-in lights into his designs — instead, he relied on indirect sunlight and lamps.

After using the bathroom in the clubhouse, Wally came out with a big smile on his face. “We peed in a Barragán, bitches!” he whispered to me.

White horses at Cuadra San Cristobal

When we visited, there were only two horses kept at Cuadra San Cristóbal.

Bales of hay at Cuadra San Cristobal

These two vertical openings are part of the dramatic wall of the courtyard. Here, at the back, you can see they have a purpose — offering ventilation for the hay.

Back entrance at Cuadra San Cristobal

A back entrance to the living quarters of the stables

It’s ironic that Barragán is famous for his intense color palette, when it was actually chosen by his friend, the painter Chucho Reyes.

Flowering pink tree that matches the wall at Cuadra San Cristobal

All of the colors were chosen to match or complement that of the natural setting. The legendary pink, for instance, perfectly mirrors the blossoms of the property’s bougainvillea trees.

Purple back gate at Cuadra San Cristobal

The purple wall is actually a gate that opens via gravity.

Man pets black schnauzer

Duke pets Frida, one of the worker’s pet schnauzer.

A black schnauzer named Frida, owned by one of the workers, was napping in a corner of the yard and later came by to say hi to me. At the time of our visit, Cuadra San Cristóbal was home to a black cat who slinked by us as we made our way over to the pasture where a pair of horses, Little Girl and Carbonero, stood. When Wally asked about the name — Carbonero translates to Charcoal, a strange moniker for a white steed — Martín replied that it’s considered unlucky to give a white horse a name that refers to its color.

The garden is filled with cacti and palms.

Not Your Garden Variety Garden 

Many of the gardens designed by Barragán were intentionally left unmanicured in places. Martín led us to an unassuming secret garden concealed between an opening between the house and interior courtyard. Nature was incorporated throughout all of Barragán’s works, and landscapes were often designed by the architect himself. A magic tunnel of greenery hidden away in the woods behind the home led to a small wooden table. 

Barragán was a devout Fransican Catholic with deeply held spiritual beliefs. He felt that an essential part of his architecture should elevate the experience of its inhabitants, including plants, animals and humans. This private bower was a place for meditation and prayer, Martín told us. “It’s a place to have a deep conversation with the Almighty.” 

Such isolated spaces are an element in all of his works, Martín continued.

The green of the native plants offers a pleasant contrast to the hot pink walls.

Garden at Cuadra San Cristobal

Looking back toward another pasture, in a corner of which the family’s beloved donkey is buried

In another part of the back garden, a donkey that was a beloved family pet is buried among the hedges.

Martín spoke to one of the ranch hands, then beckoned for us to follow him, a twinkle in his eye. One of the owners who had been on the patio had gone back inside, so we would be allowed to see the Egerströms’ private pool area. We returned to the entrance portico, went up a few steps and made our way through a passage cast in shadow that suddenly opened to an intimate outdoor space. A pavilion overlooks a swimming pool and provides shelter from the sun. It would be a nice, quiet place to read — as attested by a recently abandoned newspaper that sat atop a table, fluttering in the breeze. 

Private yard at home at Cuadra San Cristobal

We were fortunate enough to be able to explore the family’s private outdoor space.

Swimming pool at Cuadra San Cristobal

How’d you like to cool off in this pool on a hot Mexico day?

Cuadra San Cristobal swimming pool

The impressive swimming pool isn’t part of every tour. If the family is enjoying it, you won’t be able to see it.

Seen from any angle, Cuadra San Cristóbal is a masterpiece of harmony, scale and space. Even though it was built in the mid-’60s, its design remains modern and it certainly cemented my appreciation for Barragán. –Duke

 

Cuadra San Cristóbal

Cerrada Manantial Oriente 20
Mayorazgos de los Gigantes
52957 Ciudad López Mateos
México

Why We Love Barragán’s Fuente de los Amantes

The bright, modern Lovers’ Fountain reflects the equestrian neighborhood of Los Clubes, northwest of Mexico City. 

Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes

La Fuente de los Amantes, or the Lovers’ Fountain, by Luis Barragán

One of the first things you’ll notice when you enter the gated community of Los Clubes (The Clubs) is, well, the horse club. And just down the street is a lot showcasing Luis Barragán’s Fuente de los Amantes, or Lovers’ Fountain. 

Nods to the equestrian lifestyle are found everywhere in the design of this semi-public space. The “lovers” themselves are wooden horse troughs placed upright. A cobblestone path leading to the flat pool was constructed to present an inviting spot where horses could drink and cool off in the 4- to 5-foot-deep water. And the green space nearby was used for training. 

La Fuente de los Amantes is pure Barragán.
Bright colors. Optical illusions. Designs that evoke emotion.
The lovers of Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes

The “lovers” are actually horse troughs placed upright — a nod to the equestrian neighborhood.

La Fuente de los Amantes is also pure Barragán. Bright colors. Optical illusions. Designs that evoke emotion as a reaction to the cold functionalism of Le Corbusier and his Bauhaus gang. 

“Barragán was good at taking rustic and traditional materials and turning them into something modern,” our guide, Martín, declared, showing us the cobblestones. His passion for Barragán definitely gave me a newfound appreciation for the architect. 

This cobblestone path was the entrance to the fountain and small park.

cobblestone pathway with feet

Wally stands on the intricate cobblestone pathway that leads to the fountain.

Martín pointed out another Barragán signature: walls that act as screens for shadows. When you stand on the side road, where the cobblestone path begins, one of the back walls is framed, and the shadows cast upon it act like a shifting work of art.

On one side, two of the walls meet to create a quiet chamber where one can imagine the rhythmic sound of a horses’ hooves merging with the soothing sound of falling water.

Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes

Barragán is known for bright colors, especially that pop of pink.

The Lovers’ Fountain took years to complete, wrapping up in 1964.

Nowadays the fountain only runs one hour a day, from 11 a.m. to noon. We visited as part of a half-day excursion with the Traveling Beetle. They, of course, timed our visit perfectly, and we got to see the water rushing along the aqueduct to pour down into the aqua-colored pool below. 

Where does the water go? If you look closely at the edge of the pool, you’ll spot a line of small holes, where the water filters in to be cycled back into the aqueduct.

The water in the fountain only runs for one hour a day now.

Barragan's Fuente de los Amantes aqueduct feature

Horses would go into the fountain’s pool to cool off and get a drink of water.

Not to beat a dead horse, but Barragán rightfully holds his place as Mexico’s preeminent architect. The more you learn about his vision — and once you experience it in real life — the more admiration you’ll have for him. —Wally

 

Fuente de los Amantes

Manantial 10
Mayorazgos de los Gigantes
52957 Ciudad López Mateos
México


Ojo de Agua: A Delightful Breakfast in La Condesa

Using fresh, locally sourced ingredients, this CDMX fast casual restaurant offers delicious egg, coffee and smoothie options. 

A fantastic breakfast (or coffee or smoothie) option in the La Condesa neighborhood of Mexico City

Some cities really do have it all: food, culture, adventure and more. On our fourth morning in CDMX, we ventured out for breakfast and decided to try Ojo de Agua. Situated off the picturesque Plaza Citaltépetl roundabout near the tree-lined Avenida Amsterdam, Ojo de Agua is a fast casual restaurant that wants you to eat on the healthier side — without being bland or boring. With its own bountiful fresh fruit and vegetable stand on display inside, a literal feast for the eyes, the concept reinforces the proverbial saying “you are what you eat.”

The fruit stand in Ojo de Aqua

The founder named the café after Ojo de Agua, the small town built around a freshwater spring pool located in the state of Michoacán, where the family is from. Their ethos “living a healthy life, in the company of people we love, in harmony with nature and strengthening habits which provide the body with tools to be fulfilled” rings true. The first location opened in the upscale Polanco neighborhood 14 years ago and the brand has since expanded to 23 locations in CDMX. 

The clean and simple logo (a white background with turquoise type and Fanta-blue droplets of water) offer a nod to the town’s namesake spring and can be seen under the awning.

A tasty breakfast at Ojo de Agua’s sidewalk café in La Condesa

A Healthy Way to Start the Day

The interior is casual and chic with big windows, concrete floors, patterned Mudéjar-style tile and white-painted brick walls, which makes it bright and welcoming. Plus, if you arrive early like we did, there’s outdoor seating where you can soak up the morning sun and people-watch while enjoying some of the tastiest food in La Condesa. 

You’ll find plenty of breakfast options to choose from on the menu, including açaí bowls, chilaquiles and cinnamon roll French toast. I ordered the santos ahogados, two poached eggs served in a cast-iron skillet over hoja santa, a large aromatic heart-shaped leaf plucked from the plant of the same name, complete with a generous helping of grilled panela cheese, in a broth of refried beans, salsa roja, salsa verde and sliced avocado. Wally ordered the huevos Polanco, made with two Parmesan cheese-crusted baked eggs served over an avocado purée and dressed with a za’atar-dusted cilantro jocoque, a fermented dairy product somewhere between yogurt and sour cream. My breakfast was savory, flavorful and very tasty. The salsa verde was relatively mild, while the salsa roja had a nice fiery heat to it. 

Wally couldn’t help but be jealous of that thick slice of grilled panela cheese on Duke’s santos ahogados.

I appreciated that real silverware was provided, neatly presented in kraft paper sleeves. The unmistakable and familiar strains of “Bohemian Rhapsody” by the British rock band Queen played over the speakers as we ate up every last bit of our breakfast. 

You’d be hard-pressed to find cuter details than this citrus juicer that acts as a napkin holder.

After breakfast, we made a beeline to the juice bar and ordered the South Face, a combination of fresh mango, passion fruit and pineapple juice. We also purchased a small jar of smoky salsa matcha. I’m considering tossing it with some roasted root vegetables or putting it on some chilaquiles. Needless to say, we left very happy and full. –Duke

 

Ojo de Aqua

Condesa Hipódromo 23C
06100 Ciudad de México
Mexico

Immersive Frida: An Incredible, Must-See Show

Compared to this amazing spectacle honoring the life and work of Frida Kahlo, the Immersive Van Gogh is a mere screensaver. 

If you’re in Mexico City, see Immersive Frida while you can!

We parted the strings of rope as we would a curtain, fittingly, from beneath one of Frida’s long Tehuana skirts, and were instantly transported into a magical world. 

Duke and I headed toward an empty round ottoman but we both stopped right as we were about to sit down — the seat appeared to be moving! 

After a few seconds, our vision adjusted and we realized it was just a trick of the eye from the projected patterns that filled the walls and drifted across the white sand covered floor. We laughed and took a seat. 

In the center of the gallery a circle of rope curtains bisected the gallery. These moved periodically, sometimes swirling, sometimes opening to reveal the other half of the exhibit space for dramatic vistas. 

Rings of curtain-like ropes open and close to reveal dramatic vistas across the room.

Other rope curtains were placed at either end of the main room, acting as screens for the projections of Frida Kahlo’s paintings. 

The show takes place at Frontón México, a large entertainment venue.

The spectacle Duke and I attended was Frida: The Immersive Experience (Frida: la Experiencia Inmersiva) held in Mexico City at Frontón México. This massive building, which once served as a jai lai court from the 1920s until the mid-’90s, reopened after a multimillion-dollar overhaul in 2017 as a multipurpose entertainment venue that includes a casino. It’s right across the street from the Plaza de la República and is a 12-minute walk to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which we explored after the show.

Duke posing in the lobby

Frida in 360 Degrees 

Halfway through Immersive Frida, we decided to get up to discover what it was like in the curtained portion at the center of the room. The ropes spun in circles and it was like walking through a curved passageway with moving walls. Then we were inside the bower, with slashes of light illuminating the space. Above us hung a chandelier of sorts, a cascade of white paper flowers that shifted in color, sometimes glowing light blue or purple, interspersed with dark red lightbulbs dripping like drops of blood.

The chandelier shifts colors throughout the show.

After a bit of time here and wanting to see new perspectives, we emerged and found seats on the other side of the room, where we remained for the rest of the show. 

The creators of the exhibit took elements from Frida’s paintings — a bug-eyed jaguar mask from (Girl with Death Mask, 1938), a leaf, an alarm clock and airplane from (Time Flies, 1929), and (The Two Fridas) — cut them out and filled the screen with them. Then parts of famous paintings would peek out from the collage, and you have to constantly look around to see different objects: Diego’s eye here, Frida’s mustache over there, the leg of a deer behind you. There’s nonstop movement and animation, and even voice recordings of Frida herself, waxing poetic about her love for Diego. 

Elements of Frida’s paintings are isolated and presented as a moving collage.

Then elements from other paintings reveal themselves, like this one of Diego.

Immersive Frida includes some audio footage of the artist speaking.

Frida’s famous paintings truly come to life.

You’ve got to constantly look in all directions during the show — there’s something new to see everywhere you look.

A somber set of images, like the ones about the spinal injury that plagued the iconic artist most of her life, were accompanied by intense, moody music. At one point, Frida’s chest opened and a corset wove itself around her shoulders and torso to reveal a broken column within. But then the images would turn bright, as when nature scenes began to populate, and the music became optimistic, energetic, paired with happier imagery. 

A terrible accident Frida suffered as a youth informed many of her paintings.

One segment of the exhibit features nature scenes.

At the end of the show, be sure to explore both ends of the room. Beyond the curtains on the side you enter, there are two cool photo opps with elements from the show, along with a long monitor where you can write and have your scribblings show up as colored streaks. Through the ropes at the other end of the exhibit space are a line of interactive stations where crazy creatures created from aspects of Frida’s paintings react to your movements. The more you dance around, flail your arms and jump, the more fun it is to watch the character on screen mimic you.

The photo opps at the end of the show are worthwhile.

A series of interactive exhibits put a fun end to the amazing show.

We’ve seen the Immersive Van Gogh in Chicago. While it’s cool in its way, it struck us as one-note; the media felt more static and didn’t evoke much emotion. To be honest, even the interactive moments after the Frida show were more enjoyable than the $50 we shelled out for Van Gogh. And for only $17 a ticket, Immersive Frida is a steal.

It’s obvious the curators and creators of the show loved their job and greatly respect Frida’s legacy— that appreciation and dedication shine through every moment of the 45-minute spectacle. If you couldn’t already tell, we highly recommend going. If we lived in Mexico City, or if the show makes its way to Chicago, we would certainly come again. Immersive Frida is so rich in imagery, and, as we had to spin around constantly and crane our necks to catch all the different views, we know that inevitably there was much we missed the first time. –Wally