The herb-infused indigenous steam ritual at Temazcal Oaxaca opens your mind as well as your pores. Plus, you won’t believe how they cleanse you of negative energy.
Duke takes a seat in front of the temazcal, a sort of steam lodge that has been used by the Aztecs, Mixtecs and other indigenous people of Mexico.
I’ve always dreamed of embarking upon a spirit quest. Throw in a massage afterward, and it’s a no-brainer. I’m in.
When I first read about temazcales in Viva Oaxaca: An Insider’s Guide to Oaxaca’s Charms by Robert Adler and Jo Ann Wexler, I knew Duke and I had to experience one.
When researching which temazcal to try out, Duke was drawn to Temazcal Oaxaca, thanks to its Insta page.
“She walked behind me and began to lightly beat me with a bundle of herbs.
The temazcalera does this to cleanse you of negativity. This transfers the bad energy to the herbs, which are then burned. ”
Wally is ready to embark upon his temazcal spirit quest — part of an ancient tradition of the indigenous peoples of Mexico.
We had just wrapped up a folk art tour with the wonderful Linda Hanna, and when the time came, we found a car waiting outside our hotel, Casa Antonieta, ready to drive us to the village of Santa María Coyotepec for our temazcal experience. The driver turned out to be Nathan Dawson, the young man who designed, built and runs Temazcal Oaxaca with his girlfriend, Orosei Acevedo.
The courtyard at Temazcal Oaxaca with the cold plunge tub off to the right
What Is a Temazcal?
The name translates to “house of hot rocks.” These brick structures — imagine a Native American sweat lodge shaped like an igloo — are a tradition used for various purposes by many of the ancient indigenous peoples of Mexico. Sure, Nathan told us, they were part of spiritual rituals, but the Aztecs used them to prepare soldiers for battle, the Mixtecs of the mountains used them to induce labor, and more recently, they’re used for general bathing — villagers can save on precious water and emerge smelling like fresh herbs.
Traditionally, a woman known as a temazcalera will guide you through the process. This role is sometimes referred to as a shaman or curandera (folk healer). Every pueblo has a midwife, and she’s who acts as temazcalera, Nathan informed us.
The peaceful area where you relax before and after your temazcal experience
Temazcal Oaxaca: “By Far the Best”
When we arrived, an expat couple from St. Louis had just finished their experience. They moved to Oaxaca a few years ago, and like every American we’ve met living here, they have no plans of going back to the States.
The man encouraged us to take a shot of mezcal to loosen us up for the temazcal, so I squeezed orange slices into our thimble-sized goblets and we threw them back. It’s also recommended you drink a couple of glasses of water to hydrate before the steam bath.
As we sat at the table, a spray of liquid hit my forearm. No one else saw or felt anything. I began to believe I was marked by an invisible spirit animal in preparation for my temazcal.
When I asked Nathan later what it might have been, he said it was most likely one of the giant cicadas that live in the tree — which certainly wasn’t as glamorous a spirit animal as I was hoping for.
As the couple left, the man told us, “I’ve been to temazcals all over, and this is by far the best. It’s not touristy; it’s the real deal.”
The temazcal is purposefully shaped like a womb.
Inside the Temazcal: Return to the Womb
We ducked our heads and entered the dark brick structure, sitting upon wooden stools in front of a fire that heats rocks. Our temazcalera, Narcedalia, knelt next to me, taking bundles of herbs, dipping them into a bucket of water and then placing them atop the hot rocks. An aroma filled the space, with many of the herbs working to open the lungs. We took deep breaths and entered a meditative state. My mind journeyed to a troubled relationship I have with a family member, suggesting that I should make the effort to repair it.
Our lovely temazcalera, Narcedalia, guided us through the ritual.
A glimpse inside the temazcal — before the door shuts and you embark upon a dark, steamy spirit journey
Now and then, Narcedalia rattled off something in Spanish, and we mostly caught the gist. She explained that temazcales are good for the head, the heart, the stomach, her hand moving to each part of the body as she spoke them.
When sweat poured down our faces, Narcedalia took our washcloths, wet them and refreshingly dabbed our faces. Every once in a while, she sang a quiet song from her home, Atzompa, a nearby pueblo known for its pottery. It was lovely to hear her soft, soothing voice, filling the chamber like a lullaby.
As I sat there in the dark, imagining I was part of an ancient Mixtec group undergoing a ritual experience, Narcedalia walked behind me and began to lightly beat me with one of the bundles of herbs. The temazcalera does this to cleanse you of negativity. This transfers the bad energy to the herbs, which are then burned.
As Nathan later explained, modern-day grandmothers carry on this tradition. If something bad happens or a child is scared, the abuela will rub an egg on the person, declaring that the evil is now in the egg, which she will then bury. Alternatively, she might lightly whip you with herbs to get rid of your fear — like they do in a temazcal.
“You’re transferring the negativity to the herb,” Nathan said. “Then you’re symbolically letting go of it, burning it on the rock.”
You’ll get lightly beaten by bundles of herbs to cleanse you of negativity during the temazcal ceremony.
After about 20 minutes or so (it’s impossible to know for sure, as the experience seems to take place out of time), we took Nathan’s advice and moved to sit on the floor to cool off slightly. Then, after another passage of time, the temazcalera placed pillows on the ground, and we laid there, relaxed and refreshed.
At one point, Narcedalia said something that sounded like she wanted us to open our towels. So, we made our privates public, hoping that’s what she was saying.
And when she poured water over us in a baño, or bath, I sighed in contentment, and was relieved that we had correctly understood her. She was so gentle, like a mother bathing a baby. And indeed, the shape of the temazcal is round, to mimic a pregnant belly.
“You’re going into Mother Earth’s womb and back out again,” Nathan told us.
The massage beds as seen through gauze
Rubbed Down and Relaxed
Don’t be surprised if your experience is a bit different. Nathan and Orosei are always seeking to enhance the experience, adding a sensory element here, a spa treatment there. (They’ve got plans to have patrons do a natural mud mask after the temazcal, once the pores are good and open.)
After our temazcal, we skipped the cold plunge and went into the nearby building, where we had changed out of our clothes. Now we got ready for our massages. There are so many nice touches, including a blindfold and aromatic herbs placed by our noses — both of which connected back to the temazcal experience.
Nathan hired Narcedalia and her two sisters to act as temazcaleras and put them through massage school. I don’t know that I’ve ever been more relaxed after a rub-down. We had turned into puddles of goop. After a cup of tea, Duke and I got up slowly, put our clothes back on and literally oozed outside.
Wally, blissed out after the temazcal and massage
We sat in the courtyard and chatted with Nathan, who grew up splitting his time between this village and Texas. He walked us around, showing us the various herbs used in the temazcal. It’s a variety that might include: boldo (the most common), basil, rosemary, rue, fennel, aloe vera, vicks plant, hierba maestra and hierba buena.
Nathan and Orosei grow most of their own herbs to open your lungs, your pores and perhaps even your soul.
Nathan, the owner of Temazcal Oaxaca, showed us the various herbs grown in the courtyard and used in the temazcal.
Vicks plant, on the left, is Mexico’s natural version of Vicks VapoRub.
While his family has operated a temazcal for decades, this site opened in October 2021. Nathan is an astute entrepreneur — he’s got a vision, and the experience he has created is one of a kind.
We highly recommend adding Temazcal Oaxaca to your itinerary. It’d be best to do so toward the end of your trip — a wonderful way to refresh after days walking in the heat and driving to the charming villages on the outskirts of town. –Wally
Wally and Duke stand on either side of the Mixtec symbol for a heart.
When you’re done, say a prayer of thanks to the god of temazcales.
Temazcal Oaxaca
Allende Santa María Coyotepec
71254 Oaxaca
México
